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Rogue SaI nt

ISSUE 5 • VOL 11 • JUNE 2022

HAIR GALORE

DRAG QUEEN HAIR TIPS AND TECHNIQUES

THE END OF THE HIGH WAIST THE END OF AN ERA AND THE REBIRTH OF THE PAST

TRIXIE MATTEL AND HER RISE TO STARDOM

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Photography—Victoria Leben, Styling—Olivia Wild

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C O N T E N T S P. 16

Trixie Mattel

and her Rise to Fame P. 6

Hair Galore

P. 8

End of the High Waist

P. 10

BlackTok

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Empowering Shape

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Hair Galore

Galore

Hair

By: Eli Porter The Season 13 premiere of RuPaul’s Drag Race, which aired on Jan. 1, 2021, was recognized as the most viewed episode in the franchise’s history. Nearly 1.3 million viewers tuned in to watch queens from across the country walk into the show’s signature workroom to start the competition to become America’s Next Drag Superstar.

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In order to meet the show’s growing expectations for drag excellence, the queens have more pressure

than ever to turn out extraordinary looks and performances that will leave viewers jawdropped and wanting more. While that might sound like the sole responsibility of drag performers, there are tons of people behindthe-scenes that bring the vision to life. Many drag queens can be spotted from miles away with their signature hairstyles that range from a wavy vintage look to a tall-teased moment, and that doesn’t happen overnight.

Hair Galore

Many of the signature hairstyles worn by Rosé, RuPaul’s Drag Race Season 13 contestant and member of Stephanie’s Child, were created by two of New York City’s most beloved drag queens Chelsea Piers and Selma Nilla. Piers, a musical theater queen known for her pop-punk style, started styling hair as a way to supplement her income. She currently styles hair out of her Hell’s Kitchen apartment, but prior to COVID-19, Piers spent a lot of time at Bobby Pinz studio where she learned a lot about hair for theater and television.

built her persona. To get the latest scoop on how some of the best wigs of this season of RuPaul’s Drag Race were created, Nilla and Piers popped in to share with WERRRK.com the process behind wig styling from beginning to end. And yes, it’s more than just placing a few bobby pins. Due to drag becoming more mainstream over the last 10 years, styled and elevated wigs have become more essential.

Nilla, NYC’s “Undercooked and Over Consumed queen”, started her career in the costuming department at the Asolo Repertory Theater in Sarasota, Florida. While she was there, she learned about wigs and her interest in hair took off. Upon moving to NYC, Nilla landed a gig at Anastasia on Broadway as a wig stylist, and gained a reputation within the theater and drag communities as she

“Frankly, the industry demands it now. It wasn’t like this when I started, I mean not everyone was wearing custom styled wigs,” Piers said. “But now that Drag Race has evolved, to the point that it’s like if you are at a certain level, then you can’t show up in a “shake-and-go” with no style in it because it indicates that you didn’t put the effort in.”

As with any art form, establishing an idea comes first. Many drag queens draw inspiration from specific time periods, celebrities or silhouettes. Some queens want big hair to make themselves look smaller – an idea Eureka O’Hara coined as “proportionizing.”

“I think that having a styled wig is a great opportunity to say something about your drag and the way you want to look.”

While “shake-and-go” wigs are relatively popular, the lack of volume can create a semi-unrealistic look. A slight tease at the root as a result of having a wig styled creates a more natural finish, adds an element of polish and helps to tell the overall story of one’s drag persona. “Wigs are an opportunity for you to tell a complete story with your image,” Piers said. P A G E

Prior to this season, Piers styled many wigs for her drag mother Jackie Cox, contestant on RuPaul’s Drag Race season 12. “Honestly would have never been able to do Drag Race without Chelsea!” Cox said. “She styled about half of my wigs. She has such a great eye for knowing what works with my face shape and style!” Wig stylists such as Piers and Nilla are usually sent a few images for reference to get a better idea of what the client is looking for, and then after is where the magic happens.

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DE AT H OF H IG H WAI S T

THE E N D OF T H E

H W

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DE AT H OF H IG H WAI S T Well, we’ve reached new lows—sartorially speaking, anyway. The latest denim trend to grace the spring 2022 runways? Ultra-low-rise jeans in baggy, oversized silhouettes. The polarizing style has been gaining steam over the past few seasons, but brands like Missoni, Vaquera, MSGM, and Molly Goddard have proved that the revival of low-slung denim is not some blip on the fashion radar—it’s here to stay. There’s no denying that, for millennials, the trend’s imminent return can be stress-inducing. With its belly-baring pants and other body-conscious trends, the early aughts were a time that perpetuated fatphobia and a beauty standard of thin, young, and white. Suffice to say, representation was not a priority of the era. But now the low-slung jean seems ready for redemption, returning with a better, body-inclusive point of view. Low-slung denim is no longer exclusive to a certain few, and the silhouette is now as nonfussy and oversized as it is low-waisted. To wit, procuring a pair of runway-approved low-rise denim today isn’t solely about designer offerings; it can also mean simply sizing up on a loose silhouette so the waist lays lower on your body. How should you wear them? Per the runways, slinky knits or crop tops will do just fine. Here, some of the best pairs on the market. Shop them now to get ahead of the trend—it’s time to get low!

The Low Rise Rebirth

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BlackTok

BlackTok & fair pay It’s Time For Black TikTok Creators To Be Paid Their Worth Photography JACK ANDERSON Stylist ANASTASIA KEYS

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NIMAY NDOLO

Voodoo Bae

By: Eli Porter Forbes recently named TikTok’s top-earning creators, including Charlie and Dixie D’Amelio and Addison Rae. These white influencers are known for co-opting Black creator Jalaiah Harmon’s viral “Renegade” dance and garnered more exposure and opportunities than Harmon (Rae was even featured on Jimmy Fallon performing the dance; she has since apologized). These creators have gone on to star in reality TV shows, movies, and even perform on stage in recent years. And while they’ve taken their talents beyond TikTok, Forbes reports that they still earn 30% to 50% of their income from sponsored content through the videofocused social platform. Black creators are at the helm of some of the app’s most viral trends, so why aren’t Black creators earning nearly as much money as their white counterparts or being offered the same opportunities?

Black Twitter is asking the same question. It wasn’t long before Twitter users started expressing their frustrations about the article. Like many social media platforms, TikTok is another app that Black creators are carrying on their backs. It's tiring to see how many Black creators fight to be seen for the work they’re putting in, just for white creators to receive the credit. Creator and Founder of The Influencer League Brittany Bright recently tweeted her thoughts on why Black creators are not in the top earners on TikTok, stating that brands are lowballing Black creators with huge followings and that Black creators with huge followings are lowballing themselves by not charging brands nearly enough for their content. She expressed how important it is for Black creators to advocate for themselves. “As trendsetters, they need US — not the other way around,” she said.

That statement couldn’t ring more true. But in the fight to be paid for what they’re owed, how can Black creators also protect their intellectual property from being claimed by someone else? It seems like every month another Black TikToker has to air out how a white creator either copied their video word for word, changed the flow to their song, or recreated their dance moves without properly crediting their original creators. On top of that, their audiences eat it up, and usually have the audacity to argue back. This happened last November when UK artist and creator Dreya Mac's "Own Brand Freestyle" verse (“I ain't never been with a baddie...”) saw extreme success on the app before a white creator decided to “remix” it by switching out words from Dreya’s

verse. Last time we checked, that’s plagiarism! Furthermore, issues like this discourage Black creators from putting themselves out there, especially since there aren’t many proper measures in place to protect creative property on social media apps. While there's still much progress to be made, some platforms are working to change that. In January 2021, TikTok launched its Black Creatives incubator program, a three-month program focused on nurturing and developing Black creators and music artists. "We've partnered with MACRO, the multiplatform media company founded by CEO Charles D. King that represents the voice and perspectives

As trendsetters, they need US — not the other way around

of persons of color, to create a grant for a select group of creators and music artists," TikTok said in their announcement. "The funds can be applied toward educational resources, production equipment, and other creative content development tools. MACRO will also advise on the selection of speakers, programming content, and professional and business-building opportunities for creators." TikTok also launched a Latinx Creatives Incubator Program with MACRO in August 2021, and runs a Support Black Businesses initiative and mentorship program. You could easily say the onus is on social media platforms to provide effective solutions to this endemic of social media piracy, but what measures can Black creators take to protect themselves in the meantime? One place we can start is by asking for the money we’re owed. Creators like Keona

Coa have been vocal about how long it's taken to grow a following on TikTok, and how big brands often lowball Black creators when negotiating sponsorship pay. Recently, she also expressed how disheartening it is to see how white influencers are able to make more in comparison to Black creators, and her wish is for Black TikTok users to be awarded for their content the same way white creators are. As a creator myself, I would love to see more Black TikTokers speaking up, and not being afraid to charge their worth. This isn’t the time to be shy about our money, especially when brands look to us for innovative ways to create and tell stories. If we aren’t charging the value of our time, effort, and sauce, how can we expect to be earning more? And brands need to step up, too. If we aren’t advocating for the change we deserve, when will we ever see it?

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Interview

LONDON SUPERIOR Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that Sofia Richardson, not pain or mindless self Words ANASTASIA KEYS

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SERVICES

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F O R E V E R

YOUNG Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that Sofia Richardson, not pain or mindless self Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that

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Words ANASTASIA KEYS

moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values.Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that happiness, not pain or mindless self-indulgence, is the proof of your moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values.Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that happiness, not pain or mindless self-indulgence, is the proof of your moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of y moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values.Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that happiness, not pain or mindless self-indulgence, is the proof of your moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values. Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that happiness, not pain or mindless self-indulgence, is the proof of your moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of y moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values.Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that happiness, not pain or mindless self-indulgence, is the proof of your moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values. Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose of your

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ARTICLE

moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values. Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that happiness, not pain or mindless selfindulgence, is the proof of your moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values.Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that happiness, not pain or mindless self-indulgence, is the proof of your moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of y moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values. Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that happiness, not pain or mindless selfindulgence, is the proof of your moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values.Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that happiness, not pain or mindless self-indulgence, is the proof of your moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of y moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values. Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that happiness, not pain or mindless selfindulgence, is the proof of your moral integrity, since it is the proof and the result of your loyalty to the achievement of your values.Achievement of your happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose happiness is the only moral purpose of your life, and that happiness, not pain or mindless self-indulgence, is the proof of your moral integrity, since it is P A G E

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La

Ligne,

La Vitrine,

Photoshoot curated by Santal

Magazine,

Paris 2019

Sincerity + Stars + Wisdom Santal + BMD Dig

s + Aliens + Magic

gital + Creativeness

Mars + Moon + Venus + Sun

Genius + Uniqune

SANTAL MAGAZINE

ISSUE XXV JAN 2019

DOWNLOAD THE FULL VERSION HERE: https://creativemarket.com/iam_elizaveta/3680108SANTAL-Magazine-Layout

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