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The Best of

Samaithu Paar The classic guide to Tamil cuisine S . M E E NA K S H I A M M A L

The Best of Samaithu Paar

PRAISE FOR THE BOOK ‘Indians who have come to relish idli and sambar, dosai and other dishes would do well to invest in this do-it-yourself for the technical know-how’—Hindustan Times ‘Because of the enduring nature of an appeal that spans generations . . . [Samaithu Paar] deserves the label of being a classic’—The Hindu

The Best of

Samaithu Paar The classic guide to Tamil cuisine

S . M e e na k s h i Amm a l Food Photographs by Ashish Chawla

EBURY PRESS USA | Canada | UK | Ireland | Australia New Zealand | India | South Africa | China Ebury Press is part of the Penguin Random House group of companies whose addresses can be found at global.penguinrandomhouse.com Published by Penguin Random House India Pvt. Ltd 4th Floor, Capital Tower 1, MG Road, Gurugram 122 002, Haryana, India

First published in Viking by Penguin Books India 2001 Published in Ebury Press by Penguin Random House India 2018 Text copyright © S. Meenakshi Ammal Publications 2001 Photographs copyright © Penguin Books India 2001 All rights reserved 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 While every effort has been made to verify the authenticity of the information contained in this book, the publisher and the author are in no way liable for the use of the information contained herein. Inserts: Food prepared and photographed at Dakshin, Marriott WelcomHotel, Delhi Cover: Photographed at Kandahar, The Oberoi, Delhi. Copyright © DK Picture Library ISBN 9780143428992

This book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, resold, hired out, or otherwise circulated without the publisher’s prior consent in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition including this condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser. www.penguin.co.in

Contents

Preface

viii

Sambar & Rasam Sambar Buttermilk Sambar Vegetable Stew Buttermilk Stew Dhal Stew Mixed Vegetable Stew Rasam Mysore Rasam Pepper and Cumin Rasam

3 5 6 7 11 12 14 15 16

Vegetables Pitlay Cabbage Baaji Carrot Baaji Yam Masiyal Steamed Dhal Curry Brinjal Fry Masala Brinjal Colocasia Fry Colocasia Leaf Curry Mashed Potato Masala Potato Pumpkin Curry Sweet Potato Curry Bitter Gourd Curry Aviyal Coconut Koottu Cluster Beans Jaggery Koottu Tender Pumpkin Milk Koottu

19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 37 38 39

Rice Coconut Rice Lemon Rice Tamarind Rice Curd Rice

43 44 47 48

Tiffin Rice Pongal Sweet Pongal Broken Wheat Pongal Idli (with par-boiled rice) Idli (with raw rice) Semolina Idli Dosai Wheat Dosai Semolina Dosai Wheat Flour Jaggery Dosai Oothappam Adai Jaggery Adai Pesarat Poori Semolina Uppuma Rice Uppuma Broken Wheat Uppuma Vermicelli Uppuma Tamarind Flavoured Beaten Rice Flakes Semia Bahala Bath Vadai Curd Vadai Kara Vadai Mysore Bonda Potato Bonda Bajji

51 52 53 54 56 57 58 60 61 62 65 66 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 83 84

Savouries Murukku Black Gram Dhal Thenkuzhal Ribbon Thenkuzhal Omappodi Kara Boondhi Mixture

87 88 89 90 91 92

Sweets Vermicelli Payasam Green Gram Dhal Payasam Sago Payasam

95 96 97



Almond Payasam Semolina Halwa Wheat Halwa Mango Fruit Halwa Jangiri Mysore Pak Coconut Burfy Coconut Sojji Appam Poli Thirattuppal Coconut Balls Sweet Cheedai

98 101 102 103 104 106 107 108 109 110 111 113

Salads, Pachadis & Chutneys Plantain Stem Salad Cucumber Salad Bengal Gram Dhal Salad Mango Pachadi Jackfruit Pachadi Tender Mango Pachadi Lady’s Finger Pachadi Lady’s Finger Tamarind Pachadi Coconut Paste Onion Paste Coconut Chutney

119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129

Pickles Spicy Lime Pickle Tamarind Chilli Pickle Mavadu Avakkai Mango Thokku Lime Thokku Veppilai Katti

133 134 137 139 141 143 144

Miscellaneous Sambar Powder/Rasam Powder Chilli Powder Filter Coffee

147 148 149



151 153

Notes Glossary

Preface It has been said, if all the cookbooks ever published were lined up, they would stretch all the way to the moon. This is a reflection of the immense popularity of this genre today. However, this was not so back in the fifties in India when my mother S. Meenakshi Ammal first published Samaithu Paar. Traditionally, cooking skills were handed down from one generation to the next by word of mouth and referring to a cookery book would probably have been considered sacrilegious. Born into a traditional Tamilian family, this was the environment in which the author grew up and lived. Considered an expert cook in her family, she was constantly besieged with requests for recipes by her relatives. Having to write out the same recipes endlessly made her think of writing a book. But her idea met with resistance. Many were quick to discourage. The only encouragement came from her uncle, Shri K. V. Krishnaswami Iyer, a leading advocate, ex-president of The Music Academy, Chennai, and considered to be the father of the Library Movement in Tamilnadu. With his support, Meenakshi Ammal published the first volume of Samaithu Paar in Tamil in 1951. The simple style of writing, the easy-to-follow directions and the attention to the smallest of details found immense favour with the public. The second and third volumes were published in quick succession. Today, all three volumes have been translated into English and the first volume has also been translated into Hindi, Telugu, Malayalam and Kannada, running into many editions. The continued popularity of Samaithu Paar is borne out by its presence on the many lists (available on the Internet) of things to pack for students travelling to the US. It would not be an exaggeration then to say that the book has certainly ‘gone places’. Perhaps the ultimate tribute to Meenakshi Ammal came when the ultra-modern lifestyle magazine, Cosmopolitan, crowned Samaithu Paar the best in its category of classic cookbooks. In the fifty years since the first volume was published, cooking has undergone many changes, and these changes have been incorporated into Samaithu Paar. For example, revisions have been made in the measurement of ingredients, from the original ollocks to grams to the now popular cups. Likewise, references to traditional utensils and kitchen appliances have also been modified. What has not changed is the basic recipes themselves. And, like in the original volume, one caveat remains: this book, as any other of its kind, can only be a guide. Perfection can be achieved only after attempting each recipe a few times. Also, individual tastes differ and need to be factored in when preparing any dish. In this the golden jubilee year of Samaithu Paar, I take great pride in the fact that Penguin is bringing out this well-designed, definitive edition of the original, choosing the most-loved recipes and making them available to a much wider audience. I hope you, the reader, will enjoy trying out the various recipes as much as we did putting them together. P. S. Sankaran Chennai November 2001

Sambar & Rasam

3

SAMBAR & RASAM

Sambar A variety of vegetables—drumstick, lady’s finger, onion, brinjal, pumpkin, Bangalore brinjal, carrot, French beans, runner beans, etc.,—can be used to prepare sambar. Select any one vegetable. Cut into medium size bits and wash. Vegetables like onion, brinjal, lady’s

Ingredients Vegetable ¼-½ kg New tamarind A lump the size of a small lime

finger, French beans, runner beans and cluster beans can

Red gram dhal ⅔ cup

also be fried a little before adding. Amaranth stems,

Turmeric powder ½ tsp

radish, runner beans, cluster beans or pumpkin may be

Gingelly oil 3 tsp

cooked separately with just enough salt and then added.

Dry red chillies 10 (Medium)

Soak the tamarind in 1 cup water for 20 minutes. Squeeze it out, adding water little by little to prepare 1 cup of juice. Choose a heavy vessel, e.g., stoneware, with a very narrow mouth. Wash the dhal. Clean and remove stones, if any. (If the dhal is cleanly husked, it need not be washed.) Boil 1-1¼ cups of water. Add the dhal, turmeric powder and 1 tsp oil. Cover with a shallow lid, filled with water. (A cup of water may also be placed on the lid.) Add this water to the dhal, if needed,while the dhal is cooking. Cook till very soft. (Some dhals do not cook soon. If so, add a pinch of baking soda. If baking soda is added, do not use turmeric powder, as the colour of the dhal will be spoilt.) Remove from fire and mash the cooked dhal. Keep aside. Heat a vessel. Pour in the remaining oil. Pinch red chillies into halves. Slit green chillies. Fry the pinched

or 6 (Large) Green chillies 2 Mustard seeds ½ tsp Fenugreek seeds ½ tsp Asafoetida powder A pinch or to taste Curry leaves (Chopped) 3 tbsp Salt 1 tsp Rice flour ½ tsp Coriander leaves (Chopped) 3 tbsp To serve 4 persons Photograph on p. 9

4

T H E B E S T O F S A M A I T H U PA A R

red chillies, mustard, fenugreek seeds and asafoetida to a dark brown colour (without blackening it). Add green chillies. Pinch curry leaves and fry for a few moments. Add the tamarind juice to the seasonings with salt. Add the cut and washed vegetable. When the vegetable is cooked in the tamarind juice, add the mashed dhal. Allow it to boil well. Mix the rice flour in water. Add and stir well. Bring to boil once more. Boil for a few minutes. Remove from fire. Garnish with coriander leaves and a few curry leaves. Note: Asafoetida water may be used in the place of asafoetida powder. If using asafoetida water, add to the sambar when boiling. To prepare thicker sambar, increase the quantity of dhal. The dhal can be cooked in a pressure cooker as well.

5

SAMBAR & RASAM

Buttermilk Sambar (MOAR SAMBAR)

A variety of vegetables can be used in the preparation of this dish. It is most commonly made with drumstick, brinjal or lady’s finger. Alternatively, potatoes, Bangalore brinjal or ash gourd may also be used. Choose any one vegetable. Wash and cut the vegetable. Cook the vegetable with salt, till soft, in water. Drain out excess water. Keep aside. If using brinjal or lady’s finger, do not cook in water. Fry them a little with salt before adding.

Ingredients Vegetable ¼ kg Salt 1 tsp Red gram dhal ⅝ cup Oil 3 tsp Mustard seeds ½ tsp Fenugreek seeds ½ tsp Dry red chillies 8 Green chillies 6

Cook the dhal till soft. (See Sambar recipe on p. 3.) Heat

Rice flour 1 tsp

the oil in a heavy, e.g., stoneware, vessel. Fry mustard

Buttermilk (Sour) 1 cup

and fenugreek seeds and pinched red chillies to a

Ginger 1” piece

reddish brown colour. Add slit green chillies and fry for

Coriander leaves

a few moments. Remove from fire and keep aside. Mix

(Finely chopped) 3-4 tbsp

the salt and rice flour in the buttermilk. Pour the

Curry leaves 5-6

buttermilk into the same vessel. Add the fried seasoning. Add the vegetables when the sambar begins to boil. Add cooked dhal. Let it mix well. Boil and remove from fire. Tap ginger lightly with a rolling pin and add. Garnish with coriander and curry leaves.

To serve 4 persons

6

T H E B E S T O F S A M A I T H U PA A R

Vegetable Stew (VATRAL KUZHAMBU) Ingredients Vegetable ¼ kg Old tamarind A big lump the size of a lime Mustard seeds ½ tsp

Vegetables like brinjal, lady’s finger, onion, sweet potatoes, pumpkin, radish, cluster beans and runner beans can be used. Wash and chop the vegetable. Keep aside. If onions are being used, they can be sautéed in a little oil before adding.

Fenugreek seeds ½ tsp

Soak the tamarind in the water for about 20 minutes

Dry red chillies 23

and prepare tamarind juice.

Red gram dhal ½ tsp Asafoetida powder A pinch or to taste Salt 1½ tsp Curry leaves 8-10 Sambar powder 2½ tsp Rice flour 1 tsp Water 2½ cups Oil 4-5 tsp

Heat the oil in a heavy, e.g. stoneware, vessel. Fry mustard, fenugreek, broken and pinched red chillies, red gram dhal and asafoetida. Add the tamarind juice. Add curry leaves and the cut vegetable along with the sambar powder. Fry to a reddish colour. Add salt. Boil till the soup reduces to 2 cups. Mix the rice flour with water. Add to the ‘kuzhambu’. Boil and remove from fire. Note: Fried pappads (‘appalams’) broken into bits can be

To serve 4 persons

added before serving. ‘Kuzhambu curry vadam’ (wafers) may also be fried and added to enrich the flavour.

7

SAMBAR & RASAM

Buttermilk Stew (MOAR KUZHAMBU)

Vegetables like Bangalore brinjal, brinjal, ash gourd,

Ingredients

drumstick or lady’s finger can be used in preparing this

Vegetable ¼ kg

recipe. Wash and cut the vegetable being used. If using

Salt 1½ tsp

ash gourd, drumstick or Bangalore brinjal, cook in water

Red gram dhal ½ tsp

with salt before adding. If using lady’s finger or brinjal,

Bengal gram dhal 1 tsp

fry lightly in oil with salt before adding. Potatoes and

Rice ½ tsp

colocasia may also be used. Boil in their jackets, peel, cut

Green chillies 4-5

into large bits and add. Keep aside.

Cumin seeds ¼ tsp

Soak the dhals and rice together in ¼ cup water for a few minutes. Grind into a smooth paste with green chillies, cumin seeds, coconut and curry leaves

Coconut (Grated) ¼ cup Curry leaves (Broken) 3 tbsp Buttermilk (Slightly sour) 2 cups

Add the ground paste and salt to the buttermilk and

Gingelly oil 2 tsp

mix well. Put the mixture in a vessel and boil over a

Dry red chillies 2

slow fire, stirring all the time with a ladle. When boiled,

Mustard seeds 1 tsp

add the cooked vegetables. When the stew is still on the

Coriander seeds ½ tsp

fire, add a few curry leaves. Remove from fire. Heat the

(Optional)

oil in a frying pan. Fry red chillies and mustard, and the

Coriander leaves

coriander seeds, if used. Add to the stew as seasoning.

(Finely chopped) 3 tbsp

Garnish with coriander leaves. Note: Approximately ¾-1 cup of grated coconut, cumin seeds and green chillies may be ground without the dhals or only Bengal gram dhal may be used, excluding red gram dhal. Rice may be replaced by ½ tsp rice flour.

To serve 4 persons

Recipes treasured by more than three generations of women The first volume of Samaithu Paar was published in 1951. More than just a cookbook, it was intended to serve as a manual for daily use. Over the years, those who did not find time to learn cooking in the traditional way from their mothers have used the three volumes of Samaithu Paar to set up homes and manage kitchens all over the world. The Best of Samaithu Paar brings together a hundred most-loved recipes chosen from the three-volume original. Maintaining the simplicity of language, easy-to-follow directions and adherence to the smallest details, the recipes have been suitably revised and adapted using universal measures of cups and spoons and modern utensils and appliances in place of the more traditional ones. The recipes range from the basic idli, dosai, sambar and rasam to their many variations that are not so familiar to all Indians. The book also includes specialities like Moar Kuzhambu, Mysore Rasam, Pongal, Murukku and Jangiri, as well as pachadis and pickles. A must-have for all those who enjoy traditional Indian cuisine.

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