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Green and Mild Surfactant - Alfa Chemicals Flipbook PDF
Green and Mild Surfactant High Performance Manufacturer in Special Chemicals Field Sino Lion USA
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Green and Mild Surfactant Sino Lion USA
High Performance Manufacturer in Special Chemicals Field
Outline 1. Brief Introduction of Sino Lion USA 2. Amino Acid Based Surfactant 3. Emulsifier 4. Skin and Hair Conditioner
1. Brief Introduction of Sino Lion USA
Organizational Structure of SINO LION Sino Lion (USA), Ltd. Marketing arm for International Business Founded in 1993 in New York State, USA NanJing HuaShi Chemical Co., Ltd. Production base and R&D Center Located in Nanjing Chemical Industrial Park ShangHai ZhongShi Science and Development Co., Ltd Applied Technology Center and Sales for domestic market
Markets Served / Product Category Markets Served: - Personal Care & Home Care
Four Major Product Category: - Specialty Chemicals (Super Mild Surfactants, Skin & Hair Conditioners, Emulsifiers, Emollients, etc.) - Polymers (Carbomers, Styling Agent, Foam Enhancer & Lubricant Agent) - Actives (Skin Lighteners, Cooling & Warming Agent, Anti-Microbial Agent, etc.) - Natural Products (Pearl Series)
SINO LION’s Formula Technology Platform Formula Technology
Involved Sino Lion’s Ingredient
Eversoft YCK
Mentholatum, Marubi, Sinoway Herb, TJOY, Osmun, PROYA, Beautyplus, Shanghai Meichen, etc.
EversoftTMYCS30S
TAYOI
MinoxTMHD
Mentholatum
TM
Facial Cleanser
Body Wash EversoftTMYCS30S
Hair Shampoo
Unilever
Anti-dandruff Agent: MinoxTMZPT,MinoxTMHD
Unilever, MINGCHEN, HOUDY
Conditioner Agent: EverquatTM22P, EverquatTMMP, EverquatTMAMG449, EverquatTMQ50
Bawang, Yunnan Baiyao, C-Bons, MINGCHEN, DANZI, HOUDY, etc.
Hair EverquatTMAMG449, EvermineTM22 Conditioner Skin Care Cream
Partner
EverMAPTM52K, EverMAPTM160K
C-Bons Johnson & Johnson, Shanghai Meichen
SINO LION’s Commitment to Quality & Environment -ISO 9001: 2000—New Plant CERTIFIED IN APRIL 2009 -ISO 14001: 2004---New Plant CERTIFIED IN APRIL 2009 -CLEAN MANUFACTURING PROCESS: New Plant CERTIFIED IN MAY 2009 -Focus on Sustainability and Renewable Sources Whenever Possible
SINO LION’s Key Customers Multinational Companies (part) - Unilever
- L’Oreal
- KAO
- Johnson & Johnson
SINO LION’s Key Customers Local Companies in China (part) - Longliqi - Tyoi - C-Bons - Dabao - Zhongshan Perfect
2. Amino Acid Based Surfactant
Amino Acids and Life Amino acids are fundamental to life and the basic building blocks of the proteins that make skin and hair.
Amino Acid Based Surfactants • Glycinates, Glutamates, and Sarcosinates • Super Mild surfactants derived from amino acids— Sulphate-free • Creamy and elastic foam-- Imparts silky and invigorating after-feel
Amino Acid Based Surfactants • Safe, Environmentally Friendly--Biodegradable-80% degraded in 28 days • Best Alternative to Lauryl Ether Sulfates • As co-surfactant, reduce irritancy and improve sensory attributes • Now We Have Made Them Affordable
SINO LION’s Amino Acid-Based Surfactants • EversoftTM YCS-30 INCI Name: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate • EversoftTM YCS-30S INCI Name: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate • EversoftTM YCK INCI Name: Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate • EversoftTM S-12 INCI Name: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
SINO LION’s Glycinate • EversoftTM YCS-30 INCI Name: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate –Minimal Salt Content, Active: ~28% • EversoftTM YCS-30S CTFA/INCI Name: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate –With ~5% NaCl, Active: ~25% ; Total Solids:~30% O NH
O-
O
Cocoyl
Glycine
Na+
SINO LION’s Glycinate EversoftTM YCS-30S - Approved by Unilever - Used in Body Wash - Market Product: Dove
Applications • As main surfactant: 30~60% • As co-surfactant: 5~30% • As co-surfactant in soap base formulation system at alkaline range, may increase foaming power, improve foam quality, decrease irritancy and impart a luxurious skin after-feel • Thickening Difficulties: Resolved! 3 Ways – – – –
a) Glycerine Paste System; b) Co-Surfactant System; c) Polymer System Best--a combination of the above three ways.
EversoftTM YCS-30 & YCS-30S Advantages • Super mild surfactant derived from amino acid • High foaming power • Creamy and elastic foam • Imparts silky and invigorating skin after-feel • As co-surfactant, reduce irritancy and improve sensory attributes • Hard Water Tolerant • Environmentally Friendly-Biodegradable • Affordable
Amino Acid Based Body Wash
A
B
C D E
F
INCI Name/Active Content
Use Level (%W/W)
Deionized Water
to 100
PEG-14M
1.00
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate
30.00
Sodium Lauroamphoacetate
6.00
Lauryl Hydroxysultaine
4.00
Acrylate Copolymer
3.00
Aculyn 22
1.00
Deionized Water
10.00
EverthekTM 38VSL
2.40
Ethylene Glycol Distearate
2.00
NaOH (10%)
0.85
NaCl
2.00
Deionized Water
20.00
Fragrance
q.s.
EversoftTM YCS-30S Creamy and Elastic Foam
Foam Comparison of Eversoft YCS-30S & AES • • •
EversoftTM YCS-30S About 5 % Aqueous Solution Dense, Creamy and Elastic Foam
• • •
AES About 5 % Aqueous Solution Large Bubbles, Quick-breaking Foam
Foaming Power Comparison Foaming Power Comparison 600
Foam Height (ml)
500 400 300 200 100 30 secs 0
5 mins Eversoft YCS-30
℃ *0.25% solution @ 50℃
Eversoft YCS-30S
AES
Conclusions: Amino Acids Based Surfactants • Third-Generation Surfactants – SUPER MILD and Naturally Derived – Silky, soft and luxurious user experience – Cost Performance Advantage • Best Alternative to Lauryl Ether Sulfates; • Totally Compatible to Skin and Hair; • Biodegradable, Friendly to the Environment; • Natural Choice
3. Emulsifier
Highly cost-effective emulsifier
EverMAPTM160K —— Excellent O/W Emulsifier INCI POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE
Highly cost-effective emulsifier EverMAPTM160K 1. Approved by Laverana in Germany Used in different market products.
2. Approved by L’Oreal in December, 2012 Market products will be coming later.
Highly cost-effective emulsifier Product features Bionic phospholipid structure, good direct contact with skin; Excellent O/W Emulsifier——can produce good O/W emulsions for skin care and refined ointment systems, resulting in bright, stable formulations with elegant after feel and superior skin compatibility;
Good compatibility——good compatibility with other anionic and non-ionic emulsifiers, can be easily applied to anionic and non-ionic systems;
Good pH adaptability—— stable and balanced in a wide PH range; Environmentally friendly and easily degradable.
EverMAPTM160K Application Scope Skin care products—Good compatibility with skin, beautiful appearance, good stability and spreadability; Foundation cream, liquid foundation, sunscreen products—Fresh and non greasy after-feel, good stability and spreadability; Hair care products—can be used as both a conditioner and an emulsifier, offering good conditioning and emulsifying benefits to the formula; Shampoo, shower gel, facial cleanser—stabilizes and improves after-feel of the system.
Use Level Primary emulsifier：0.5%-3.0% Co-emulsifier：0.2%-1.0%
EverMAPTM160K-Influnence of addition process on stability Materials Process
Content
A
White oil
15.00
①Mix B and C and heat the mixture, add the heated A into the well
B
EverMAPTM160K
3.00
mixed B and C, stir for 5 minutes A, stir well for 1 minute;
C
Deionized water
QS to 100.00
②Heat A, and heat mixture of B and C, and add mixture of B and C into A, stir for 5 minutes A, stir well for 1 minute; ③Mix A and B and heat the mixture, add the heated C into the well mixed A and B, stir for 5 minutes A, stir well for 1 minute;
For best results, add the water phase to the EverMAP 160K/oil phase and mix.
④Heat C, and heat mixture of A and B, and add the mixture of A and B into C, stir for 5 minutes A, stir well for 1 minute; Stability Process
①
②
③
④
Separatio n time
Separation happens after 2H
Separation happens after 2H
Separation doesn’t happen on Day 1
Separation doesn’t happen on Day 1, but there is relatively more stratification compared with ③ on the Day 2.
Summary
③has better stability
Note：Using DC200, squalane to respectively substitute white oil shows the same conclusion.
EverMAPTM160K-Application in skin care products Moisturizing Cream PH Value METTLER TOLEDO Delta320 type PH（stock solution）=4.9±0.2 A Stability ①Store at the temperature 5℃、25℃、40℃、50℃，24 later, observe at the room temperature, no changes occur in three months ②Use Anke TGL-16C type centrifuge, with 3000RPM action, no strastification occurs in 13 hours.
B
Viscosity BROOKFIELD DV－Ⅱ＋LV，4#，20RPM，30”; ≥12,000cp
Use Level
INCI Name /
(%W/W)
Function
INCI Name/Active Content
C
White Oil 26#
5.00
DC350
3.00
GTCC
2.00
EverquatTM MP
1.50
Glycerin Monostearate
0.80
EverMAPTM 160K
1.50
Methylparaben
0.15
Propylparaben
0.15
Glycerin
8.00
EDTA-2Na
0.05
SuperGelTM CE (3% solution)
30
EvermildTM PGA
0.03
Deionized Water
To 100
Triethanolamine
0.18
Fragrance
0.30
EverguardTM
0.30
Co-emulsifier
Emulsifier
Thickening Agent Emollient
4. Skin and Hair Conditioner
EvermineTM22 - Introduction INCI Name: Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine
O C21H43
CH3
C NHCH2CH2CH2 N CH3
EvermineTM22 - Specification Specification Appearance(25℃)
White to pale yellow solid
Odor(25℃)
Characteristic odor
Identification
IR(Confirm)
Total amine value(mg KOH/g)
132±6
Acid Value(mg KOH/g)
＜6.0
Storage and Shelf life ① Storage: in dry and cool environment at room temperature. ② Shelf Life: 18 months
EvermineTM22 - Features Plant source Good biodegradable and very minimal toxicity Is both non-ionic and cationic Excellent hair repair agent Excellent hair conditioner Has good compatibility with anionic surfactants Water soluble
TM Evermine 22
Basic Performance
EvermineTM22 - Solubility
The solubility of EvermineTM22 in water Add 2% EvermineTM22 into deionized water at room temperature, 50℃, 70℃, 90℃ respectively.
Result: EvermineTM22 does not dissolve into deionized water at any temperature.
EvermineTM22 - Solubility The solubility of EvermineTM22 in the water with different pH value Adjust the pH value of deionized water with HCl, Citric Acid and Lactic Acid, then test the solubility of 2% EvermineTM22 In the water with different pH value. Table 1 The solubility of EvermineTM22 in the water with different pH value 1% HCl (%)
22.02
21.50
20.94
20.72
2.10（10%）
0.53（10%）
pH
3.00
3.54
3.98
4.56
5.19
6.92
Appearance
Translusent and turbid liquid, uneven
Gray liquid, uneven
10% Lactic Acid(%)
4.5
5.2
5.75
6.2
8
16
pH value
5.5
5.00
4.50
4．00
3.50
3.00
Appearance
Mist
10% Citric Acid(%)
4
5
6
8
11
pH value
5.00
4.50
4．00
3.50
3.00
Appearance
Undissolved particles
Clear Transparent Liquid
Clear Transparent Liquid
Result: In the solution of Lactic Acid and Citric Acid, EvermineTM22 has good solubility and it is clear transparent liquid when the pH value ≤5.0.
EvermineTM22 – The effect of acids on conditioning Test the hair conditioning of EvermineTM22, which is neutralized by different acid: ① Neutralizing the pH value of 2.0% EvermineTM22 to 4.5 with citric acid, lactic acid and HCl respectively. ② Wetting the hair tresses (long 20cm, weight 10g) with water, soak the hair tresses in the above solutions and take out in 1minute; ③ Rinse the hair tresses with water in 5 seconds.
Result: ① EvermineTM22 neutralized with citric acid and HCl is easier to rinse off than with lactic acid. Therefore, neutralization with lactic acid is the best; ② EvermineTM22 has good solubility in lactic acid systems when the pH＜5.0; ③ When neutralizing, we suggest to first add lactic acid to water, and heat to 75℃, then add EvermineTM22.
EvermineTM22 – Compatibility with surfactants
1. The stability of EvermineTM22 in different surfactant solutions and its effect on foaming. Test Method: ① The active content in the surfactant solution: 10.0%; ② The active content of EvermineTM22 : 2.0%; ③ Process: Heat the mixture of deionized water and surfactant to 70℃, stirring uniformly, then add EvermineTM22. Cool down when EvermineTM22 is dissolved, then adjust the pH value of the Solution to 6.00 – 6.20 with lactic acid or NaOH or Triethanolamine. Test the foaming power and foam stability of the blank solution and the solution containing EvermineTM22.
EvermineTM22 – Compatibility with surfactants Foaming Volume/ml
Blan
＋Evermine 22
2 The effect on foaming power of surfactant solution by EvermineTM22
200
The effect on the foaming power of tested surfactant by Evermine 22 is different, The effect by K12A (TEALS),K12(SLS)、 APG is more, the effect by other surfactant Is small.
150 100 50 0 AES
AESA
K12
K12A
CAB
SB230 LG-30
S-12
APG
3 The effect on foam stabilizing force of surfactant solution by EvermineTM22
Surfactant
Defoaming Volume/ml
Blank
Evermine 22 obviously increases the foam stabilizing force of CAB, not obviously to other.
＋Evermine 22
80 60 40 20 0 AES
AESA
K12
K12A
CAB
SB230 LG-30
Surfactant
S-12
APG
EvermineTM22 Application in hair conditioner
EvermineTM22 – Conditioning effect and pH value EvermineTM22 has cationic properties; it’s nonionic and cationic properties vary with different pH values. The formulation of hair conditioner: 1.5% EvermineTM22 (treated with lactic acid)+3.0% Cetostearyl Alcohol The preparation of samples: Add lactic acid when heating aqueous phase to 60℃, then add EvermineTM22
Maximum Combing Force
and fatty alcohols at 80℃.
(Adjust the samples to different pH values with Lactic Acid)
200 150 100 50 0 3.4
4.0
4.25
4.75
5.25
6.25
The pH value of hair conditioner
Figure4 pH value’s effect on the conditioning effect of EvermineTM22 The hair combing force increased when pH value is 4.75; The combing force is minimum when pH value is 4.25.EvermineTM22 used in the hair conditioning, the proposed pH value is 4.0~4.3. At this moment, most of EvermineTM22 is cationic and the affinity with hair is much better. On the contrary, at a higher pH range, EvermineTM22 loses its cationic property.
EvermineTM22 – The effect of proportion and use level The use level of EvermineTM22 and the proportion between EvermineTM22 and fatty alcohols can directly affect viscosity and conditioning. Test the two items below to determine how they affect viscosity and conditioning: EvermineTM22 with different use level (1.10%, 1.65% and 2.20%); Different proportion between EvermineTM22 and fatty alcohol (1/1, 1/2 and 1/3). 1.65%
1.10%
2.20%
Viscosity(mPa.s)
50000 40000 30000 20000 10000 0 1/1
1/2
1/3
The proportion between Evermine 22 and cetostearyl alcohol
Maximum Resistance(g)
1.10%
1.65%
2.20%
150 100 50 0 1/1
1/2
1/3
The proportion between Evermine 22 and Cetostearyl alcohol
Figure5 The effect of use level and proportion
Figure6 The effect of use level and proportion
on the viscosity of hair conditioner
on the conditioning effect of hair conditioner
When the proportion between EvermineTM22 and Cetostearyl alcohol is from 1:1 to 1:2, the viscosity of hair conditioner is increased with a decrease in hair combing force. However, when the proportion Is from 1:2 to 1:3, there is no obvious effect on viscosity and combing force.
EvermineTM22 – Conditioning effect on the hair The cationic surfactant to be tested: ①EvermineTM22 ②SAPDMA Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine ③BTAC(2231) Behenyl Trimonium Chloride ④CTAC(1631) Cetrimonium Chloride
The basic component of hair conditioner to be tested: 1.5% Cation Surfactant + 3.0% Cetearyl Alcohol Adjust pH value to 4.0 (EvermineTM22 and Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine are neutralized with lactic acid)
The samples of hair：① Bleached (treated) hair；② Virgin hair
EvermineTM22 – The conditioning effect The affinity of EvermineTM22 on the hair Evaluation Method: use potentiometric titration, analyze the affinity of cationic surfactant on treated hair and virgin hair by testing the quantity of cationic surfactants adsorbed by the hair. The samples to be tested: the hair conditioner solution contains the cationic surfactant, content of cationic surfactant Is 6.67×10-4meq g-1 Test Menthod: The hair is soaked in 150mL test samples for 1 minute. Under acidic condition, use potentiometric titration analyzing cationic actives in the solution before soaking and after soaking the hair, the different value means the quantity of cationic surfactant adsorbed by hair.
The adsorbed cationic surfactant(%)
Virgin Hair
① Virgin Hair: 22 is absorbed twice as much as
Bleached Hair
15
SAPDMA. ② Bleached hair: The amine of C22 is adsorbed more
10
than C18; ③ 1631 also has good adsorption, especially
5
for treated hair; 0 1631
2231
SAPDMA
Evermine22
④ 22 is adsorbed both by virgin hair and treated hair nearly equally.
Cationic Surfactant
Figure7 The affinity of different cationic surfactants on hair
EvermineTM22 – Conditioning effect: combing & detangling The evaluation on the combing and detangling of EvermineTM22 Expressed as Maximum Combing Force if the MCF is less, then combing and detangling is better.
Maximum Combing Force
Dry Combing
Wet Combing
Anti-Knot
250 200 150 100 50 0 1631
2231
SAPDMA
Evermine22
Cationic Surfactant
Figure8 The use evaluation of the hair conditioner contains different cationic surfactant In Dry Combing, Wet Combing and Detangling, EvermineTM22 has better performance than the other three cationic surfactant, especially for detangling.
EvermineTM22 – Conditioning effect: anti-static force The anti-static force evaluation of EvermineTM22 Evaluation Method: Evaluate the anti-static force of cationic surfactant by testing the static charge. The hair is left overnight at 20 ℃ and humidity 30%, tested for wet combing force. Test 10 times to get the average value; if the potential value is less, then the anti-static ability is better.
Potential(V)
10000 8000 6000 4000 2000 0 1631
2231
SAPDMA
Evermine22
Cationic Surfactant
Figure9 The anti-static force evaluation of hair conditioner contains different cationic surfactant The anti-static ability of SAPDMA andEvermineTM22 is better than 1631、2231.
EvermineTM22 – Conditioning effect:
overview
The sensory evaluation of EvermineTM22 The main sensory includes decreasing combing force, un-knot, anti-static ability, etc.
1631
2231
SAPDMA
Evermine22
Application 5 Anti-Static
4
of Evermine 22 is the best, 2231 is After w ashing
2
Detangling
tangled hair; hair is easier to comb. ③ The alkyl chain of 2231 and
1 Volume
second. ② Use 2231 and Evermine 22 to treat
3 Loose Hair
① The comprehensive performance
w et combing
Evermine 22 is longer than 1631 and SAPDMA. ④ The cationic surfactant with longer
Dry Feel
Wet Smoothness Dry Combing
Figure10 The sensory evaluation of different conditioner (Five rating system,1 is not good, 5 is very good)
chain could give better performance as a conditioner.
EvermineTM22 –
Compatibility with other surfactants
Mix using EvermineTM22 with other cationic surfactants can improve the viscosity and combing ease of formulation. Test the cationic surfactant: 1631, 2231, Dioleoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, Behenoyl PG-trimonium Chloride
1631
2231
A
B
①Mixing Evermine 22 with other cationic
Viscosity(mPa.s)
10000
quaternary ammonium salt could increase
8000
performance, and could achieve products
6000
with higher viscosity and better quality.
4000
② Combing force decreases and anti-static
2000
ability increases when the use level of Evermine 22 increases.
0 0
35
50
65
100
Evermine 22（ %）
③ Different cationic quaternary ammonium salts have different compatibilities.
Figure11 The effect of the use level of EvermineTM22 on the viscosity of hair conditioner The component of hair conditioner:1.5% cationic surfactant(other cationic Quaternary ammonium salt : EvermineTM22）+ 3% Cetostearyl Alcohol A = Dioleoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate, B = Behenoyl PG-trimonium Chloride
TM Evermine 22
Application in hair shampoo
EvermineTM22 – Used solo in hair shampoo Table3 Test the basic formulation of shampoo
Comparison with a leading shampoo in the market Add different use level of EvermineTM22 to the shampoo formula in Table 3, test the conditioning effect of the shampoo, and compare with a shampoo in the market containing PQ-10.
Ingredient Laureth sulfate sodium
Formula1
Formula2
Formula3
10.0
10.0
10.0
Cocamidopropyl Betaine
3.0
3.0
3.0
PEG-4 rapeseed amide
2.0
2.0
2.0
EvermineTM22
0.0
0.25
0.5
Figure12 The effect of EvermineTM22 or PQ-10 on the combing force of hair shampoo The shampoo with 0.5% EvermineTM22 has the same combing force as the market shampoo containing 0.3% PQ-10.
Maximum Combing Force(gf)
Citric acid
Contrast Shampoo The 2in1 shampoo in the market, which contains 0.3%PQ-10
Adjust pH value to 6.0
1200 1000 800 600 400 200 0 Formula1
Formula2
Formula3
Contrast Shampoo
The use level of cationic surfactant (%)
EvermineTM22 – Used solo in hair shampoo The effect on the anti-static property of hair shampoo Add different use level of EvermineTM22 into the hair shampoo, test its effect on the anti-static property of hair shampoo.
Potential(V)
4000 3000 2000 1000 0 0
0.25
0.5
The use level of Evermine22(%)
Figure13 The effect of EvermineTM22 on the anti-static Property of hair shampoo EvermineTM22 can effectively increase the anti-static property of shampoo.
EvermineTM22 – Hair Conditioner INCI Name/Active Content
Use Level (%W/W)
Lactic Acid (10%)
7.50
Deionized Water
to 100
INCI Name / Function
Appearance: White Emulsion
A
pH Value: 4.1±0.2 (20℃) Behenamidopropyl
Evermine 22
3.00
Dimethylamine /
Viscosity: > 1,500 (cP, Broodfield DV-III ULTRA, T spindle, 93#, 20rpm, 20℃)
Conditioner B
C
D
Cetearyl Alcohol
5.00
Glycerol
3.00
DC345
2.00
C-14S (2%)
15.00
Fragrance
q.s.
EverguardTM
q.s.
Property: Moist and conditioning the hair, keep the hair smooth.
DMDMH / Preservative
TM Evermine 22
Other Information (To follow)
EvermineTM22 – Formula Information EvermineTM22 has good solubility in lactic acid systems at pH＜5.0;
In hair conditioner or heat treatment ointment system, the proposed pH value is 4.0~4.3.
The proposed neutralization process is preparing lactic acid solution, heating to 75℃, then add EvermineTM22.
In the shampoo system, heating the mixed solution of deionized water and surfactant into 70℃ while stirring, then add EvermineTM22. Then use lactic acid or NaOH or Triethanolamine to adjust the pH to desired level.
EvermineTM22 – Application Range and Use Level Variety
Benefits
Hair Conditioner
Conditioning, Emulsifing, Thickening, pH at 4.0-4.3
Heat treatment ointment
Conditioning, Emulsifing, Thickening, pH at 4.0-4.3
Conditioning shampoo
Conditioning, pH at 5.5-6.5
Hair Color Cream
Increase the tinctorial strength and uniformity, thickening, reducing harm to hair.
Repair shampoo after
Color Protection
dying Color Protection
Color Protection
Shampoo
Proposed Use Level
0.5%-3.0%
Enjoy using the products of Sino Lion USA Any Comments? Thank You!