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KANIKA GOYAL , FABRIC DEFECTS AND ITS CLASSIFICATION Flipbook PDF
KANIKA GOYAL , FABRIC DEFECTS AND ITS CLASSIFICATION
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DAYALBAGH EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTE
ADDITINOAL ASSIGNMENT (FABRIC DEFECTS) KANIKA GOYAL B.VOC (APPAREL DESIGN) VAD 503 1902774 SUBMITTED TO DR. PALLAVI LAKHCHAURA MAA’M
FABRIC DEFECT A Fabric Defect is any abnormality in the Fabric that hinders its acceptability by the consumer. Due to the increasing demand for quality fabrics, high quality requirements are today greater since customer has become more aware of poor quality problems. To avoid rejection of fabric, it is necessary to avoid defects. Price of fabric is reduced by 45%-65% due to the presence of defects. A fabric defect corresponds to a flaw on the manufactured fabric surface. There are numerous fabric defects, and most of them are caused by machine or process malfunctions. Apart from this, defects are caused by faulty yarns or machine spoils. Each factor has different effects and greatly reduces the sale and serviceability of the textiles.
IMPORTANCE OF FABRIC DEFECT With increase in demand of quality fabric now customers are more concerned about the quality of the material. In order to fulfill demand of quality material it is importance to avoid defects. A significant reduction in the price of fabric is seen due to presence of faults. It also affects the brand name. Due to the increasing demand for quality fabrics, high quality requirements are today greater since customer has become more aware of poor quality problems. To avoid rejection of fabric, it is necessary to avoid defects. Price of fabric is reduced by 45% - 65% due to the presence of defects. Company image will go down
CLASSIFICATION OF FABRIC DEFECTS Defects are broadly classified as minor, major, and critical defects. Minor defects include small faults which have no influence on the purchase of the product. Major defects are those which when exposed, are likely to affect the purchase of the product and are hence categorised as seconds. Critical defects would cause an entire roll to be rated as a second or worse.
Fabric defects can be classified as: 1. Yarn Defects 2. Weaving Defects 3. Isolated Defects 4. Pattern Defects 5. Wet Processing Defects 6. Raising Defects
LIST OF FABRIC DEFECTS 1. YARN 1. WEAVING DEFECTS DEFECTS
1. ISOLATED DEFECTS
1. PATTERN DEFECTS
1. WET 1. RAISING PROCESSIN DEFECTS G DEFECTS
Barre
Broken Ends
Colour Fly
Broken Colour Pattern
Colour Broken Bleeding Pattern and Staining
Broken Filaments
Broken Picks
Fuzz Balls
Cover
Crease Marks
Missing Pile Thread
Coloured Flecks
Double End
Neppy Surface Missselection pattern
Dye Marks
Pile-less Spot
Knots
Double picks
Oil Stains
Fabric Width Variation
Uneven Piles
Slub
Float
Unevenness
Spirality
Gout
Scrimp
Holes, Cut or Tear
Selvedge defects
Ladder
Skip Stitch
of
Pin Marks
1.YARN DEFECTS These are fabric defects caused due to faulty yarns. BARRE
-
These are horizontal stripes or streaks of uniform or uneven width
caused mainly due to high yarn tension.
BAREE BROKEN FILAMENTS - This defect occurs when individual filaments constituting the main yarn are broken.
BROKEN FILAMENTS COLOURED FLECKS - It occurs due to the presence of coloured foreign matter in the yarn.
COLOURED FLECKS
SLUB - A Slub is a bunch of fibers having less twist or no twist and has a wider diameter compared to normal spun yarn.
SLUB KNOTS - This results when broken threads are pieced together by improper knotting.
KNOTS SPIRALITY - It is the twisting of yarn due to residual torque in it.
SPIRALITY
2.WEAVING DEFECTS These defects are those which occur due to the process of weaving. The different weaving defects are as follows: BROKEN END - This results due to breakage of warp yarns during weaving.
BROKEN END BROKEN PICKS - This results due to breakage of filling yarns during weaving.
BROKEN PICKS DOUBLE END - When two or more ends by fault get woven as one generating a thick bar running parallel to the warp.
DOUBLE END
DOUBLE PICK - Instead of single, double weft yarns are woven in the fabric.
DOUBLE PICK FLOAT - Float is the improper interlacement of warp and weft yarns in the fabric over a certain area.
FLOAT GOUT - It results due to an accumulation of short fibres in the yarn and gives a lumpy appearance on the fabric.
GOUT
HOLES, CUT OR TEAR - Sometimes small holes or cut marks are found in fabrics. Due to the faults in roll handling or due to the defects in sand roller, such types of defects are found in fabrics.
HOLE MISSING ENDS - Omission of an entire end along the length of the cloth.
MISSING ENDS MISSING PICKS - Omission of an entire pick across the width of the cloth.
MISSING PICKS
REED MARKS - If any visible line or mark is created in warp yarn then it is called the reed mark. If there is defect in reed mark, denting is not done properly, beam setting is not done correctly or the selection of reed is wrong, then this types of problems happen.
REED MARKS SLOUGH OFF OR SNARLING - Bunch of weft yarns is woven into the fabric together due to yarn slippage.
SLOUGH OFF OR SNARLING TAILS OUT - These are untrimmed loose threads on the selvedge due to improper cutting.
TAILS OUT
SMASH - It refers to the ruptured cloth structure created as a result of many broken warp ends and floating picks.
SMASH THICK AND THIN PLACE - Bunching up of yarns in the fabric causes thick and thin places in the fabric.
THICK AND THIN PLACE TIGHT ENDS - This defect in the fabric is due to warp yarns which are under much higher tension than the normal amount.
TIGHT ENDS
3.ISOLATED DEFECTS FUZZ BALLS - Fuzz balls are created when the fibres are broken loose and pushed back on the yarn.
FUZZ BALLS OIL STAINS - Oils from machinery stain the fabric.
OIL STAINS NEPPY SURFACE - This condition is characterized by an excessive amount of small tangles and/or knots of fibres (neps) appearing on the fabric surface
NEPPY SURFACE
COLOUR FLY - Fibres or yarn pieces of varying colours stuck on yarn or woven in the fabric.
COLOUR FLY UNEVENNESS - Fabric surface unevenness and defects are usually created by yarn irregularity and defects in the weaving process.
UNEVENNESS
4. PATTERN DEFECTS BROKEN COLOUR PATTERN - When a colored yarn is out of place in the creel, this defect is created.
BROKEN COLOUR PATTERN
MISS-SELECTION OF PATTERN - In this defect, the pattern design gets altered due to the random dropping of stitches.
MISS-SELECTION OF PATTERN SKIP STITCH - When a stitch is skipped in knitted fabric and next yarn is picked up, a float is formed on the face of the fabric.
SKIP STITCH
5. WET PROCESSING DEFECTS Defects caused in the fabric due to desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing, and finishing processes. A few of the defects are mentioned below. COLOUR BLEEDING AND STAINING - Colour bleeding from dyed yarn in fabric tints and stains the adjacent fabric when the fabric undergoes subsequent processes.
COLOUR BLEEDING AND STAINING
CREASE MARKS - Crease marks are created due to creased fabric passing through squeeze rolls in the dyeing or finishing process.
CREASE MARKS DYE MARKS - Dye spots or dye marks are caused due to dye deposits on the machine or improper mixing of dye stuff in the solution.
DYE MARKS PIN MARKS - These are pin holes created when a fabric is put over a pin tenter and the holes are created far in from the selvedge, distorting or tearing the fabric.
PIN MARKS
SCRIMP - Scrimp refers to the pattern break in the printed fabric caused as a result of fabric going through a print machine in a creased condition.
SCRIMP SELVEDGE DEFECT - The selvedge of a fabric may be marked as bad it is wavy, corded, thick and thin and has broken weft yarn etc. If the selvedge is bad, whatever precious fabric it is, it will look bad. The finishing of fabric is troublesome, if the selvedge is bad.
SELVEDGE DEFECT SHADE VARIATION - It is the difference in depth of shade or colour within a fabric roll or from roll to roll.
SHADE VARIATION
UNEVEN OR PATCHY DYEING - Uneven or patchy dyeing is caused mainly due to incorrect dyeing conditions or faulty pre-treatment.
UNEVEN OR PATCHY DYEING
6.RAISING DEFECTS These defects are observed in pile or raise fabrics which are caused due to their manufacturing process. BROKEN PATTERN - It refers to the discontinuity observed in the design or pattern of the pile fabric. An example would be in pile-cut fabrics, where there is a broken pattern due to an improper distance between the blade of the shearing machine and the material.
BROKEN PATTERN PILE-LESS SPOT - It is an area where the pile is missing.
PILE-LESS SPOT
UNEVEN PILES - Uneven raising in the manufacturing process leads to uneven piles which show as a patch.
UNEVEN PILES
CONCLUSION Quality is ultimately a question of customer satisfaction. Good Quality increases the value of a product or service, establishes brand name, and builds up good reputation for the garment exporter, which in turn results into consumer satisfaction, high sales and foreign exchange for the country. Fabric defects directly affects the profit margins of the company. As the defected fabrics has to be sold at lower cost. To minimize value loss due to variety of defect occuring in the fabric, a manufacturer should try to minimize those defects by taking suitable remedies.
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