Escape to Europe Flipbook PDF

2018 Issue

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asianTraveler GENEVA Timeless grace

MATTERHORN & ZERMATT Ascending the Alps

SANTIAGO de COMPOSTELA The glory of Galicia

VIENNA Your royal view

ESCAPE

toEUROPE

BUDAPEST In superlatives

AMSTERDAM Dazzling, daring

PORTUGAL A family adventure

plus

CAUAYAN ISLAND RESORT

PLANTATION BAY RESORT & SPA

PHP 180.00 US$ 4.00 HK$ 39.00 SG$ 5.00

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Daily Flights effective October 28, 2018

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CI

702 MNLTPE 1045/1255

CI

024 TPEONT 1810/1450

CI

023 ONTTPE 2350/0525 +2

CI

701 TPEMNL 0735/0940

Unit 1, Golden Empire Tower, 1322 Roxas Boulevard Cor Padre Faura St, Ermita, Manila, www.china-airlines.com

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asianTraveler ESCAPE to EUROPE Destinations

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GENEVA

Switzerland’s second most populous city is famous for watchmaking, banking and other attractions that go beyond the measurable.

MATTERHORN & ZERMATT

A splendid Swiss peak overlooking a town beloved to mountaineers and skiers will redefine your understanding of spiritual.

SANTIAGO de COMPOSTELA

The glory of Galicia in northwestern Spain lies in the path that leads to it, lovingly referred to by pilgrims as the Way of Saint James.

VIENNA

We could actually be royals, though it don’t run in the blood, as Lorde’s song goes. All it takes is a trip down these lux Viennese lanes.

BUDAPEST

The prime city of Hungary may well be the place where you can experience everything about Europe in the level of superlatives.

AMSTERDAM

The Dutch capital is never short of things that can dazzle the traveler and make him or her feel absolutely welcome.

PORTUGAL

For Traveler’s Eye, we look at heartwarming shots taken by one of the country’s top lawyers during a special family adventure.

asianTraveler ESCAPE to EUROPE Sections

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Traveler’s Notebook

Our partners La Mer and China Airlines inform us of the latest buzz in beauty and travel.Take note and duly update your shop list and travel plans.

On the Scene

Check out the glitziest and popular events which were recently staged by our partners Santis and iTrulli, brimming with Euro vibes.

Travel Essentials

You can’t go traveling looking drab, especially if the destination is Europe. Put on some holiday chic and choose from our recommendations.

The Lounge

We spoke with top executives from a leading airline and an esteemed tourism board to better understand what makes Europe a dream destination.

Fine Dining

Our lineup of excellent fine dining recommendations features classic and mouthwatering European cuisine right within our shores.

Hotels & Resorts

Before we embarked on our European journeys, we indulged in luxurious pampering at Plantation Bay and Cauayan Island Resort.

Side Trip

Another tropical sendoff we enjoyed came from Negros Occidental, a province also touched by Spanish, and therefore European, influences.

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asianTraveler GABRIEL D. DELA CRUZ Executive Editor/Publisher AIDA A. DELA CRUZ Managing Editor JENNIFER BALBOA Contributing Editor EDITORIAL AND MARKETING TEAM Our cover: Matterhorn, the iconic mountain of the Alps, was a high point in our European travels this issue. We are an independent travel and leisure magazine published by Pilsigns, Inc. The editorial content of asianTraveler is commissioned or obtained solely by the editors who apply the same journalistic standards to our website. Opinions in the magazine are those of the writers’ and are not necessarily endorsed by asianTraveler. The magazine accepts no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. Manuscripts, photographs and artwork will not be returned unless accompanied by appropriate postage. SUBSCRIBE: http://www.asiantravelermagazine. com/subscribe WEBSITE: http://www.asiantravelermagazine.com. Log on for features you’ll only find here, including the best source for shopping, dining and events, and maps of major tourist destinations worldwide. CONTACT: We’d love to hear from you, whether the subject is a recent story, a travel discovery, a trip you’d like to share, or a question. You can email us at [email protected] or fax +63.2.840.0247. LIKE US ON FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook. com/asiantravelermagazine

CHRISTOPHER B. CHAN Art Director ALBERT CASTILLO Photo Editor CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Willy Marbella, Vic Sevilla, Angie Duarte, Christopher Cruz, Zean Villingco, Donna Patricia Manio, Ara Vinzon, Howie Calleja, Christopher Belardo CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Don Oco, Zean Villongco, Tabitha Jamlang, Gabriel Dela Cruz, Howie Calleja, Christopher Belardo MARKETING & SALES Maria Kristina Dela Cruz Mary Balibag Louisa Marquez ONLINE MARKETING Gabriel Dela Cruz, Jr. Peter So DISTRIBUTION & CIRCULATION Hazel Agcara, Janice Lopez

FOLLOW US ON TWITTER: http://www.twitter. com/asiantravelmag

LOGISTICS Christan Gawat, Jimmy Biason

International Standard Serial Number (ISSN) 1908-9848

asianTraveler is available in the inflight libraries and lounges of the following airlines:

OFFICE: Rm. 41, 4/F Matrinco Building, 2178 Don Chino Roces Avenue, Makati City, Philippines TELEPHONE: +63.2.840.0247 or +63.2.261.3249 MOBILE: +63.998.981.8043 FAX: +63.2.840.0247 EMAIL: [email protected] All rights reserved. Copyright 2018 by asianTraveler Reproduction in whole or in part is strictly prohibited. asianTraveler is a registered trademark. Printed in Manila, Philippines by Lexmedia Corporation

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FROM THE PUBLISHER’S JOURNAL

With great pleasure and pride, we present to you our much-awaited European issue. It’s something that we painstakingly planned for, so gathering up all our stories and photographs from our adventures gave me extreme delight. We are certain you will be delighted as well as you read and view. But we start from home, because if you ask me, I think what’s amazing about the Philippines is it’s never lacking in places that do have that European feel, what with our close ties with Spain, for example. Even a lot of our best fine dining options feature European cuisine. We present you here the best that European taste has to offer, within our shores. After having been powered up by European-inspired local fare, we embarked on our European adventure to Vienna, Budapest, Amsterdam, Geneva and Zermatt. We later went to Spain, exploring Santiago de Compostela in Galicia. We’ve even got snapshots of Portugal for you. We also joined forces with KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, Switzerland Tourism Board and Spanish Tourism Board, thereby making this European issue truly European in every page and every frame. While I and my team have been to Europe numerous times, such as Amsterdam and Geneva, these recent European trips proved to us yet again that Europe is one place we can never really fully grasp, no matter how many times we go. There’s just so much history and culture to take in, even for a lifetime. So here’s to hoping that we can all come back to Europe again and again, and for those who have not been, may the following pages finally inspire you to go.

Gabriel D. Dela Cruz publisher-executive editor

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YO U R H O R I ZO

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TRAVEL GUIDES Europe, fondly called the Old World by scholars and historians, will forever exude that ancient mystique, no matter how much modernity and development would further rise from its grounds. We asked our team of asianTravelers: what European site, monument or landmark has gotten you in so much awe that it gave you the feeling of being transported back in time, upon finally seeing it? Their answers got us, in a sense, time-traveling. The Colosseum in Rome has always captivated me as an architectural wonder and a site of great cultural significance. It was a marvel of the ancient world’s technical and theatrical accomplishments – the lower platform had elevators that brought up elephants, lions and other exotic animals, and had a pool that could be filled with water to simulate naval battles. This was the place pictured in Juan Luna’s mind’s eye that eventually inspired his magnum opus, Spolarium, and it’s not hard to visualize the deeper dungeons of the Flavian Amphitheater filled with gladiators – nervous, excited, fearful, injured and mortally wounded. One can almost feel the anticipation in the very stones of its foundations, calling out through the millennia, the roar of the crowds cheering at the thrill of warriors locked in primal combat, the glorious and vicious struggle, the soaring ecstasy of victory, and the crushing brutality of defeat.

In my first (and so far, only) trip to Europe, the landmark that had me seriously awestruck was the Promenade des Anglais (Promenade of the English) along the Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels) in the French Riviera. Its nearly centuries-old, smooth, paved stretch ran parallel to the bay’s world-famous pebble beach. Golden at dawn and pinkish at dusk, runners conquered it round-the-clock. Should I ever be able to come back, I promise to bring my running shoes and take on its seven kilometers of enduring beauty.

Chris Cruz - writer Sitting in The New York City Cafe was an out of body experience. Waiters in black and white, baroque interiors, illuminated scones, barley twist pillars, guilded ceilings – I felt like Louis XVI before the French Revolution. As the food was brought to the table, I could imagine waiters in tight clothes with white cravats all lined with trays in hand, all waiting in cue to lift the silver food covers for my delectation. Fast forward to Jackie O in her Oleg Cassini white-gloved gown with Jack by her side. I guess this is the reason why it’s called “the best cafe in the world.”

This choice of mine is one on a list of many historic spots that take my imagination on a time-traveling adventure: Chillon Castle in Montreux, Switzerland. This island castle sits on the stunning shores of Lake Geneva, south of Veytaux in the canton of Vaud. Dating back to medieval times, the stone fortress was home to the Counts of Savoy, the Bernese and the Vauds. With its many grand halls and intimate – even mysterious – chambers (still decked with much of the original furniture), coffered and vaulted ceilings, dungeons and courtyards, the castle may as well be a time machine. Within the castle’s stone walls, your imagination runs riot and journeys back to bygone days of royalty, knights, romance, valor and all the stuff of which awesome stories are made.

Willy Marbella - writer

Angie Duarte - writer

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Jen Balboa - writer/editor

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TRAVELER’S NOTEBOOK

Awaken Eyes

LA MER INTRODUCES THE ILLUMINATING EYE GEL, A REFRESHING TREATMENT THAT INSTANTLY LIGHTS UP THE EYES The new Illuminating Eye Gel brightens eyes on contact and works to strengthen and protect for the future. The legendary healing energies of Miracle Broth™ help fight against the early signs of aging. Eyes look youthful, energized and awakened. Newly bright. LEGENDARY LIGHT Since the very beginning light has been part of our heritage. During his first experiments, Dr. Max Huber realized that to make the Miracle Broth truly a transformational source of renewal it needed the power of light and sound energy. Today, our new Illuminating Eye Gel continues this tradition with innovative ferments and light-bending sea pearls that instantly light up the delicate eye area for a look of youthful radiance.  FUTURE BRIGHT The skin around the eyes is thinner and more fragile than other areas of the face. And because it doesn’t produce oil, the eye area is especially prone to dryness. Early signs of aging and other traces of stress and fatigue may pop up here first, making prevention absolutely essential. The Illuminating Eye Gel blurs and brightens on contact soothing the entire eye area. It provides a surge of energy while working to strengthen and help protect delicate skin in the future. ENERGY. MIRACLE BROTH™ La Mer’s potent Miracle Broth infuses skin with the legendary healing energies of the sea, helping invigorate,

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hydrate and soothe while jump-starting skin’s natural renewal process for a revitalized appearance. RADIANCE. THE NEW ILLUMINATING FERMENT Developed exclusively for the eye area, a sea-sourced brightening blend combats dullness to promote a clear and even, luminous new look. Anti-irritants help calm and soothe. Dullness is replaced with a look of vitality for a refreshed and radiant future. STRENGTH. THE NEW AWAKENING FERMENT Mineralized algae helps smooth and refine as it plumps for a more resilient surface. Antioxidants help protect against the aging effects of the environment, fatigue and stress – the invisible drivers of aging. BRIGHT & BEAUTIFUL A specially-designed acupressure technique helps awaken eyes at home or on the go. Cool, soothe and brighten eyes. On the go. Anywhere. DID YOU KNOW? The eyes are the most complex organs in the human body – only second to the brain. They are composed of approximately 2 million working parts and 12 million photo receptors. The human eye blinks an average of 12 times per minute – about 10,000 times a day and 4 million a year.

Ontario, California: China Airlines’ New Convenient Alternative to LAX Taiwan’s China Airlines launched nonstop service between Taipei, Taiwan and Ontario International Airport (ONT) in Ontario, CA on March 25, 2018. China Airlines currently flies daily from LAX to Taoyuan International Airport in Taipei and offers several connecting flights from its hub in Taoyuan to destinations across Greater China and Southeast Asia. Effective October 28, the new route to Ontario will be departing daily. China Airlines will be using new Airbus A350-900XWB on this new service, The flagship plane features three classes of service, including an in-flight Sky Lounge bar designed in collaboration with Taiwan’s Eslite Bookstore. The reason China Airlines is shifting some capacity at LAX to Ontario is that a large majority of the Chinese community in L.A. live in the area surrounding Ontario Airport. Ontario better serves the large Taiwanese population-based further east of downtown L.A. – in communities

such as Rowland Heights, Chino Hills and Diamond Bar. This service is more convenient for this specific group who don’t want to deal with long customs lines or traffic getting to and from LAX, which is undergoing renovation on one of its runways. Ontario’s location and ease of access make it a desirable point of entry and exit than LAX for the large majority of travelers residing in that area. Although Ontario is much further from the downtown Los Angeles than LAX – located 56 miles away from LAX and 40 miles from downtown Los Angeles – its location and facilities are far more convenient. There are fewer roadside delays, shorter immigration processing times, faster security and check-in lines, less terminal congestion and faster baggage processing. China Airlines will be the first airline to launch long-haul service and service to Asia from Ontario, a good boast for the airport and the city. Other than Los Angeles, China Airlines also flies to San

Francisco, New York, Hawaii and Guam. In July 2017, China Airlines released a market survey to its L.A.area frequent flyers asking them if they would favor a Taoyuan to Ontario route. From the research, they were seeking to determine the location of the airport in relation to the demand for passenger service. Many frequent travelers in the greater Los Angeles area responded favorably to the Ontario route, agreeing that they would choose to fly to Ontario instead of LA to save on travel, immigration and luggage pickup time. China Airlines also stated it had picked Ontario because of its ability to reach 10 million potential passengers in the Southern California region. FLIGHT INFORMATION: CI 702 MNLTPE 1045/1255 CI 024 TPEONT 1810/1450 CI023 ONTTPE 2350/0525+2 CI701 TPEMNL 0735/0940

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Fairways and Greens Bed & Breakfast...perched in the midst of pine trees, misty mornings, views the fog cloaked mountains of the Cordillera, where sights and sounds of nature call into the weary traveller for a warm and relaxing stay.

The Other Office The Other Office maintains to hold pride with its breathtaking view of the Baguio Country Club golf course where the beauty of nature would speak of its peaceful and rejuvenating ambiance. Safety of our patrons is also on top of our priority, the reason why we maintain a 24 hours health and safety coverage and made parking a no problem for our customers. Its affordable yet great food and unique cocktails and its nightly live entertainment further sets it aside from others.

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EXPERIENCE THE NEW BORACAY AT

CRIMSON RESORT & SPA Here to take your island experience to the next level is Crimson Resort and Spa Boracay, located at Station Zero, where you can get the exclusivity of a private beachfront and luxurious rooms with breathtaking views.

The following features and amenities await you at Crimson Boracay: • 1 Presidential Villa

Crimson Boracay takes you to a place of rediscovering the island. It begins

• 22 luxurious Private Villas with plunge pools

with a sea arrival using the resort-exclusive boat. As you approach the resort

• 72 one-bedroom suites

beachfront, you are welcomed by its elevated landscape and modern architecture.

• 97 Deluxe Rooms

Coming from a line of premium hotels and resorts, it has been highly curated to

• Saffron Café, an all-day dining restaurant

represent the Crimson brand’s passion for culture and design, while going above

• Mosaic Latin American Grill (Coming soon)

and beyond the standards of service.

• Event Pavilion

The resort allows you to have the iconic sunset all to yourself. You can also feast on a lavish banquet celebration with friends and family. Crimson Boracay offers both breathtaking views and delightful international cuisine. Be ready to choose among different tastes. Give in to your palette’s cravings at Saffron Café’s buffet selection, sip on delectable drinks at Azure Beach Club or get an upscale take on grilled dishes at Mosaic Latin American Grill. Should you want to change the pace while you’re at the resort, take a Paraw Cruise before sunset, let the kids kayak around Naked Rock, an undisturbed rock formation connected to Station Zero. As one of the newest properties in Boracay, Crimson has aims to keep and even bring back the island that both locals and tourists love and long for. Crimson Boracay is the next destination that preserves both the value of an unforgettable resort experience and environmental sustainability. From the time of the island rehabilitation, Crimson Boracay has maximized its efforts to further complete the resort with its top of the line amenities and brand new facilities such as fully equipped rooms, villas, additional dining and recreation outlets, an exclusive Welcome Pavilion and the Aum Spa, among others. Ready to welcome its guests as Boracay Island re-opens, Crimson Boracay continues the excitement for what is to come. Expect amazing offers on accommodations and other limited-time perks at the most awaited luxury resort on the island. Crimson Boracay is currently offering re-opening rates: Deluxe Room Package: Php 10,888++/night Suite Package: Php 13,888++/night Inclusions: • Daily Buffet breakfast at Saffron Café for two adults and up to two children 12 years old and below • Roundtrip land and Speedboat transfers to and from Caticlan. A minimal fee will be added for land transfers arriving in Kalibo. • Complimentary mini bar items upon arrival • Regular shuttle service from the resort to CityMall or D'Mall and back. Booking period is until October 15, 2018. Stay period is November 1 until Dec 15, 2018. For reservations, contact [email protected]

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• Coral Ballroom • Crimzone Kids’ Club (Indoor) • Crimzone at the Beach Pavilion • 3 Swimming Pools and 1 Kids’ Pool • The Village • The Gym • Aum Spa • The Library • The Gift Shop • Azure Beach Club • J’s Pool Bar • The Beachfront For more details, visit crimsonhotel.com/boracay. Connect on social media: Facebook and Instagram @CrimsonBoracay and hashtags #CrimsonBoracay #StationZero.

CRIMSON RESORT & SPA BORACAY

DELUXE TWIN ROOM

COBALT POOL

PRESIDENTIAL SUITE

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ON THE SCENE

A tradition of taste Säntis Delicatessen celebrates its rich tradition of exquisite taste by introducing a gourmet card for food aficionados It could be said that Säntis Delicatessen has been an influential force in the country’s food industry, given how it helped refine the Filipino palate. Imagine the country’s burgeoning food scene with its diverse flavors and cuisines from all over the world. Filipinos now have so many options to explore, and this is is because Werner Berger, CEO and Founder of the Werdenberg International Corporation--- the company that operates Säntis --- decided to bring Europe’s finest selections of food right at the country’s doorstep. “I started out buying sausages and cheeses for my expat friends in the Philippines,” says Werner. “But then, I thought, why not bring these goods to a larger group of people?” This, after all, turned out to be a stroke of genius. Many years later, Säntis has grown to be a household name and the brand has become consistently held on to quality and high standards of excellence. It is for this very reason is it beloved by foodies and chefs. This love for Säntis was proved during the launch of its Gourmet Card. The event was packed: loyal customers, food aficionados, food writers, restaurateurs, and hoteliers all came together to celebrate Santi Delicatessen’s thirty one year tradition of taste. “We had to overcome so many challenges just to have this card! I appreciate the entire team! Everyone worked so hard to make all of this possible,” Berger tells the crowd during the Gourmet Card’s formal launch. “But we’re happy and proud that it’s finally available for everybody. We’d like to think that it is more generous than most rewards program in the market.” The Säntis Delicatessen Gourmet Card is also honored at other Werdenberg fine dining establishments such as Carpaccio Ristorante Italiano, Chesa Bianca Swiss Restaurant, I’m Angus Steakhouse, and Cave Werdenberg Wine Bar. The card uses a point system. Some of its excellent perks include 1 point for every 200 peso purchase, double points during the cardholder’s birth month, a free glass of wine or dessert during the cardholder’s birthday and all points earned during the cardholder’s birthday will be multiplied by 5, as well as special discounts for select promotional items. “It is important for us to know our clients better, so we can better serve them and give them more options that they like. We’d also like to better inform them when we have something special such as activities, new products, or promos,” shares Werner. While Säntis holds on to the traditions that make it great, the company is taking strides in keeping up with the times and the consumer habits of its ever-growing fan base. “For us here at Säntis, we’d also like to evolve, so the introduction of this card is also part of our business evolution and growth. Like those other companies with similar cards, I thought I’d do something more generous for our customers. They can expect that we’ll roll out some very special ideas. For us here at Säntis, the most fulfilling part of being in this business is seeing a lot of happy people.” Thanks to the Säntis Delicatessen’s Gourmet Card, loyal customers can enjoy the many products they love and new ones will find plenty of reasons to keep coming back.

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Werner Berger

The card took years to work on. We encountered some problems with the suppliers of the POS systems, the card readers, with the banks, and there were new regulations in place—we had to go through some of the processes repeatedly because of unforeseen changes. Finally, we were able to find a company that could take care of everything, so we got them to work on a sophisticated system with us, so everything is recorded and put into a master list. In between all those years, I would feel frustrated from time to time because we had to start all over again. But finally, we are here. It is important for us to know our clients better, so we can better serve them and give them more options that they like. We’d also like to better inform them when we have something special in the line such as activities, new products, or promos. Aside from that, the card has many advantages. We’d learn who are our loyal customers as well as good customers. We’ll also get a better knowledge of which branches they frequently shop. Many companies nowadays have similar rewards programs in place and it’s great because this keeps them abreast with the changing times. For us here at Säntis, we’d also like to evolve, so the introduction of this card is also part of our business evolution and growth. Like those other companies with similar cards, I thought I’d do something more generous for our customers. They can expect that we’ll roll out some very special ideas such as double points on the entire month of one’s birthday, and when we have special sales, we’ll give buyers additional points. We’re also gearing up to sharing promotions. For example, if we’re about to release a new wine, we can tell our customers, “Hey, we have this new wine. If you buy it, you’ll get extra points. There are many ways to keep things exciting for everyone who shops at Säntis.

For the company’s growth, we were very careful. The restaurants I already had at 1985, we had one in Legaspi street, one in Pasay Road and it was so difficult to control, so I decided to just have everything under one roof, until we decided on this location. For the Säntis branches, I usually make a long term study, so we can better strategize in business. For this location, the place grew with Säntis. It took a while for us to decide that our branches at Commonwealth and Corinthian would actually survive. There are some Säntis locations that don’t do that well because the area has very little traffic. We’re still suffering in some of the areas, but we think, for the future, this has to become better. Take our Twin Lakes branch for example, it’s a new development. This will take a few years to boom. But as long as they treat us well, we will stay there. Our top priority has always been maintaining the quality of what we offer as well as the quality of service that we have. We would love to treat all our customers very well. We treat everybody at the highest level. At least we try. When I look at the staff even in the restaurants, I never hear any bad words such as our service is lousy. We do our best to keep the quality the same across the board. In fact, nearly 70% of my staff stayed with the company for more than ten years. We also have employees who’s been with us for thirty years! It seems like they enjoy working with us here at Säntis and we’re very happy about that. The most fulfilling part of being in this business is seeing a lot of happy people. I am also happy to say that not too many people say it’s a lousy shop. Not many people actually know me because I am very low key and I like it that way. - written by Donna Patricia L. Manio

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iTrulli as my first time in Italy I’ve always dreamt of going to Europe. If that wish would come true, Italy would be in my shortlist. So when asianTraveler gave me my first assignment - to cover the wine tasting event of the Italian Wine Club at iTrulli Restaurant - I didn’t hesitate to accept. Nothing I anticipated could have prepared me for what I was getting myself into. iTrulli Restaurant is owned and managed by Adriano and Gail Steffanutti. Adriano is a sommelier of Italian wine. He has enjoyed Italian wine practically all of his life. Adriano recalls his grandmother dipping bread into wine before letting him eat it when he was 3 years old. “There is a saying that “wine makes good blood,” he says. “It is a tradition of my country; a part of our culture and imbedded in our history. Wine is not just an alcoholic drink to get high on, it’s a way of life.” The inspiration to open an Italian restaurant, says Adriano and Gail, was borne of frustration. They recall scouring Manila’s groceries, supermarkets and alcohol outlets in their search for Italian wine only to go home empty-handed. “There was all kinds of wine from France, South Africa, Chile, Spain, Australia - but there was no Italian wine! So we decided to do something about it.”

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iTrulli Fashion, Food and Wine opened its doors to the public in 2014. The vision they shared was to create a place that would give every Filipino a chance to experience everything truly Italian. “It’s much more than just a restaurant, a retail outlet or a distribution hub for Italian food and wine,” Gail states. “It’s a showroom that gives all of us a chance to go to Italy. Most Italian products that are made available to us today aren’t Italian at all. They are mass produced, commercial goods that are poor imitations. Here, you can enjoy a real Italian experience.” Everything I laid my eyes on was made in Italy. The black crystal table, the furniture, the handbags and shoes displayed on the shelves. And then there was the food! The Taglieri - an assortment of mouthwatering cold cuts like speck and Prosciutto San Daniele, served with Soppresatta from Puglia and cheeses from three different Italian regions - introduced me to new flavors. Gourmet delicacies such as the Lardo di Colonatta from Tuscany still linger and tease my palate’s memory. Delectable pasta like the Trofie Al Sugo Di Salsiccia redefined what I always thought pasta tasted like. Then there was the wine. Bottles of glorious Italian wines that flowed throughout

the night: Salice Salentinos, Primitivos, Barols and Barbarescos. The Italian Wine Club is indeed a brain child of Adriano and Gail Stefanutti. The vision of the club is to promote Italian wines to Filipinos. By making Italian wines accessible to Filipinos, they will finally have a chance to taste it for themselves, and in time, they may learn to fully appreciate it. Since the Italian Wine Club is in its infancy stage, there is no commercial aspect to it yet. Its sole reason for being, to date, is to promote Italian wine. Since the Italian Wine Club is so new, Stefanutti adds, the club only has a few dozen members. They rely on wordof-mouth to reach customers who may be interested in being a member. Adriano had me try try the Grappa. He said Italians usually take a shot of it at the end of a big meal as it helps the digestive system. I obliged. The Grappa stormed my olfactory senses and blazed a trail into my stomach. This is what I’ve always thought a wine club should be. It didn’t overwhelm members with an intimidating number of bottles. Instead, here, members shared stories about the wine inside the bottles. The variety of grape, the vineyards where these were grown - the stories were as intoxicating as the wine. - written and photographed by Christopher Belardo

Adventures await at Astoria Palawan

The island of Palawan has been called the Philippines’ final frontier. To make a trip here more memorable, it is a good idea to book accommodations that will enhance your Palawan experience. Astoria Palawan, a sprawling 8-hectare property that brings out the innate charm of Puerto Princesa, promises to do just that. It offers a vista that is a mix of natural attractions, such as the shoreline of the Sulu Sea and the mountain ranges and its emerald virgin forests. Due to the strategic location of Astoria Palawan, guests can conveniently use the hotel as a jump-off point to easily tick items off their Palawan bucket list. They can instantly book tours to explore the Underground River on the Western side of the Island, travel North to El Nido for some island hopping and snorkeling in saltwater lagoons, and hop to the northwestern side for Astoria Palawan’s curated Port Barton Tour. Astoria Palawan has been the resort of choice for many travelers who want to experience Filipino hospitality and culture at its finest. Guests can choose from the 44 private villas and 72 spacious suites located in luxury villas

that offer the feel of a tropical home. As it is designed to offer the ultimate luxury getaway, Astoria Palawan offers guests world-class amenities. These include The Pod - a 39-meter outdoor infinity pool that leads to a stunning view of the vast Sulu Sea. Guests can hold their private events at any of the two function rooms at The Mangrove. Over at The Halo, guests can enjoy snacks and meals while taking in the view of Astoria Palawan’s private beach. This facility can also be booked for private functions and events. Over at The Canopy, guests can inquire for and make private tour bookings. Those who are looking for some extra pampering can get relaxing massages at The Sun Spa. Billeted guests of Astoria Palawan are in for a waterworld treat, as they get one-time all-day use of the facilities of Palawan Waterwork by Astoria absolutely free. And for a small additional charge, they also get to enjoy the wide lunch buffet selection at Aqua Cena restaurant. The Reserve, fronting the beach, specializes in local seafood and produce for authentic Filipino meals and continental dishes that cater to foodies from all over the world.

The Astoria has consistently garnered good feedback from TripAdvisor members and reviewers. According to Astoria Palawan general manager Joy Suarez, their positive guest comments are a reflection of their commitment to provide excellent service within a worldclass facility. “We made sure that there are a lot of activities available to the guests, particularly at our beautiful sandbar. We have also made the tours more accessible to our guests through a shared tour operated by a partner travel agency,” she states.Astoria Palawan recently leapt from 24th spot from the time she joined in September last year, and steadily climbed to garner the #1 ranking on TripAdvisor among all Puerto Princesa hotels since May. Book your next stay at Astoria Palawan, conveniently located at Km. 62 North National Highway, San Rafael, Puerto Princesa, Palawan. For direct bookings via its parent firm Astoria Hotels & Resorts, please call +632-6871111 or +6348-723-0401; emailsales@ astoriahotelsandresorts.comor visit www. astoriapalawan.com.

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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Give yourself and your loved ones the best travel experiences this holiday season by taking your pick from this lineup of travel must-haves. Pacsafe, the original anti-theft bag, leads the pack when it comes to premium bags and travel gear. We also got picks from Lewis N. Clark, Loqi, Elecom and Philips. Go over their eye-catching offerings here and you will surely be well-equipped for your Yuletide trips. CITYSAFE CX TOTE Available in Black, Blush Tan, Merlot & Blue Orchid

RFIDSAFE TEC PASSPORT WALLET Available in Black, Navy & Utility

STYLESAFE BACKPACK STYLESAFE TOTE STYLESAFE CROSSBODY Available in Kombu Green, Black & Navy

ECONYL VIBE 28L Available in Deep Ocean

CITYSAFE CX SQUARE CROSSBODY Available in Black, Merlot, Blue Orchid & Blush Tan

METROSAFE LS120 Available in Black & Deep Navy METROSAFE LS200 Available in Black & Deep Navy

METROSAFE LS350 Available in Black & Deep Navy

CITYSAFE CX WRISTLET WALLET Available in Black, Blush Tan, Merlot & Blue Orchid

VIBE 25 Available in Black, Granite Melange & Goji Berry

VIBE 28 Available in Black, Granite Melange, Goji Berry & Hydro

VIBE 200 Available in Black, Granite Melange & Goji Berry

ECONYL TRAVELSAFE 3L GII PORTABLE SAFE Available in Deep Ocean

CITYSAFE CX CONVERTIBLE BACKPACK Available in Black, Blush Tan, Merlot & Blue Orchid

Available in Pacsafe stores, Urbanize, Rustan’s, SM, Robinsons, and other multi-brand chains. 26 Escape to Europe

Earplugs

Eyemask

Blanket

LEWIS N. CLARK ULTIMATE COMFORT SET BLACK

LEWIS N. CLARK HANGING TOILETRY KIT

Pillow

LEWIS N. CLARK ELECTROLIGHT EXPANDABLE PACKING CUBE SET, 2-PACK, CHARCOAL

LEWIS N. CLARK COOLING GEL MEMORY FOAM NECK PILLOW, BLACK

LEWIS N. CLARK DIGITAL LUGGAGE SCALE

LEWIS N. CLARK ADAPTER PLUG KIT WITH 2.1A DUAL USB CHARGER, BLACK

LEWIS N. CLARK TRAVEL SENTRY® COMBINATION LOCK, BLACK LEWIS N. CLARK DOUBLECARABINER LEWIS N. CLARK TRAVEL SENTRY® CABLE LOCK, ORANGE/BLACK

LOQI TRAVEL LARGE LUGGAGE COVER LEWIS N. CLARK RFID-BLOCKING DOCUMENT ORGANIZER BLACK

GERMANY BEETLE

GEISHA JAPAN

GONDOLA VENICE

SUMO JAPAN

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PHILIPS

PHILIPS DLP6712 10K MAH POWER BANK

ELECOM

ELECOM ON100 RED OVERHEADPHONES

ELECOM

ELECOM SL100M RED EARPHONES Available in Pink

ELECOM ELECOM

ELECOM AC03BK AQUA PROOF CLEAR POUCH

ELECOM

ELECOM CB200M BLACK EARPHONES WITH MIC

Available in Red

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ELECOM CARS04 BLACK CAR CHARGER WITH PHONE STAND

ELECOM

ELECOM C31WP WATERPROOF BLUETOOTH EARHONE

3

2

1

4

7

6

5

Be beautiful as you go on your holiday trips with these choice picks from Jo Malone and La Mer. Jo Malone, a world leader in the perfume industry, captures the essence of Europein every bottle and every product, setting the standards of what beauty and luxury should be. La Mer, meanwhile, creates facial skincare and body products which have brought remarkable glow to those who have tried them. There are those who even go as far as calling their La Mer skincare regimen miraculous.

1 THE MIST

Whether skin has been submitted to undue stress, such as airline travel, smoke-filled environments or sun exposure or just the daily barrage of pollutants and office fluorescent lighting, there are many moments throughout the day when skin needs to be instantly revitalized, hydrate and soothed. The Mist’s magnetically charge waters, enriched with marine and botanical extracts, vitamins and minerals, helps restore comfort to even the driest complexions.

LIME BASIL & 4 MANDARIN COLOGNE 30 ml

2 THE LIP BALM

3 THE ILLUMINATING GEL

The Lip Balm takes its exceptional strength to treat skin’s most delicate area by blending a highly potent concentration of the nutrient-rich broth found in Crème de la Mer and incorporating this with other essential materials.

The new Illuminating Eye Gel brightens eyes on contact and works to strengthen and protect for the future. The legendary healing energies of Miracle Broth™ help fight against the early signs of aging. Eyes look youthful, energized and awakened. Newly bright.

POMEGRANATE NOIR 6 ROOM SPRAY

ENGLISH PEAR & 5 FREESIA BODY CREME 175 ml

175 ml

POMEGRANATE 7 NOIR COLOGNE 30 ml

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WHERE IN THE WORLD We’re aware that Europe tends to be a dream destination for majority of our readers. But it’s too common to be asking them what European country they would like to travel to. Instead, we’d rather like to know: where in your birth country or current nation of residence do you get to indulge your “I want to go to Europe!” wishes? What local spots do you think give you the best European vibes? “I am so blessed to be working for a resort that is located in this city; marketing and promoting the property together with this destination which gives one an authentic European vibe: Vigan in Ilocos Sur. Walking along the cobblestone streets of Calle Crisologo during the day instantly transports you to Spain and then come nightfall, it morphs into the small side streets of Rome and Paris with outdoor cafes and bars. Vigan is one of the few cities in the world that can proudly boast of being both a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the Seven New Wonder Cities of the World. And we Filipinos should be the first ones to visit the place and see why Vigan earned such global recognition. When I am in Vigan for work, I make sure that I see the Heritage Village part of the city and revel at her amazing preservation after all these years. I also take a mandatory selfie in Calle Crisologo each time.”

“The streets of Intramuros made of brick stone remind me of Europe, particularly of Paris. As they say, Paris is best explored on foot and experiencing the charming walkways of the city of love while walking brought about nostalgia and romance. In the many steps I took from the Champs Elysees to the Jardin de Tuileries, the walk was made more memorable by the same old brick stone streets, some narrow, others overwhelming and large. When I walk around Intramuros, there’s something about those brick roads that make me feel like I’m in another time. I’m not sure if it was Manila that first gifted me with this feeling or was it Paris? Truth be told, I never really liked walking; that is, until I walked on those old brick stone streets.”

John Tanjangco

Atty Peaches M. Aranas

“A local spot in the Philippines that gives me that European vibe is Laiya, Batangas. I was there to attend a wedding a few years ago and the whole area is reminiscent of Southern Spain, specifically, Costa del Sol in Malaga. The breezy seaside resorts, with the yellow sand and the blue ocean as your backdrop makes you feel like you’re truly there eating your Gazpacho and Tortillas with Jamon Serrano. The laidback, easy beach vibe is also similar to the way of life of the Andalusians. Truly a quick weekend getaway out of the metropolis can bring you back to that oh so memorable vacation in Spain.”

“I think for Filipinos who travel to Europe, particularly Italy, France or Spain, churches are among the most visited tourist spots. Because we were once a Spanish colony, we are the only predominantly Roman Catholic country in Asia. So I think that the local spots that most remind me of Europe are our churches in Manila, particularly San Sebastian Church in Quiapo. This all-steel Gothic revival church was completed in the late 19th-century. It was designed by a Spanish architect and patterned after the famous Burgos Cathedral in Burgos, Spain. Its pre-fabricated steel sections were even imported from Belgium. But unlike many of the churches in Europe, our churches are still very much visited, not just as tourist spots but as active, living places of worship.”

Director of Sales and Marketing Safari Hotel and Villas

Margie Duavit Enterpreneur

30 Escape to Europe

Managing Partner LMA Law

Anna M. Angara

“Europe is a top destination because of the rich history of each country, the smorgasbord of dishes, and the fusion of cultures. The cobblestone roads of Vigan in Ilocos remind me of the maze of cobblestone roads and small paths that litter Europe. Although the architecture of their buildings are quite different, in the later hours of the night and under the yellow glare of the street lights, the sound of footsteps and light chatter along Calle Crisologo stirs memories of Prague. At the same time, Vigan is unique in its own right for the history of Syquia Mansion, the must-have Vigan longganisa, and the unique Pagburnayan earthern pots.”

Leo Chiang Lin “The Venice Grand Canal Mall in Mc Kinley Hill, Taguig brings me to my dream European destination, Venice, in an instant. Dubbed as the City of Canals, this Italian town is famous for its picturesque gondola rides. Fellow Filipinos can experience just the same: ride a gondola boat replica sans crushed velvet seats and Persian rugs with a background of high-rise condominiums painted in pastel colors. Located on a hilltop, this place is also home to several Italian restaurants. Getting here is a bit of a challenge because it’s out of the way from public transportation vehicles’ route. So bring a car or book a Grab instead for convenience.”

Mona

“I went to Temple of Leah in Cebu, Philippines just last June and it made me think of Europe. I am an architecture and history enthusiast, so those are the reasons why I would love to go to Europe. I am delighted to say that we have something in our country that somehow brought me closer to Europe. Everything is patterned to Greek and Roman architecture at Temple of Leah. It has an interesting history too. It was said that it was built by Filipino actress Ellen Adarna’s grandfather for her grandmother Leah as a tribute of love. The shrine honors her memories and houses her treasures. Some say that it was like the Taj Mahal of the Philippines. In contrast however, Taj Mahal of India was built by Shah Jahan as a mausoleum for his wife, Mumtaz Mahal. How deep is your love to have a temple or palace built for your beloved?”

Kyna De Castro

“One of my greatest desire is to visit Europe, especially Rome and explore its visually magnificent and historically significant architecture. While some find city life appealing, an old soul me finds quaint places marvelous. Strolling through the ruins, taking photos at the prominent monuments, indulging into European cuisines are just one of my many wishes when such dream will come true. My lovely Philippines didn’t get short of indulging my European wishes when we explored Iloilo. The city is a home to many mansions, historical places and religious heritage sites built from the 17th -18th century which are trying testimony of its glorious and disconnected past. Behind me is one of my most favorite stop, an 81-year old architectural marvel known as the Lizares Mansion, which has intricate details of classical Roman carvings on its facade and inside was richly decorated with mosaics.”

Darlene Achumbre

Assistant Sales and Marketing Manager Midori Clark Hotel and Casino

“I live in Manila and the best place I can think of that reminds me a lot of Europe is Intramuros. It is the walled city at the southern side of the Pasig River in downtown Manila, and was built during the Spanish colonial era of the Philippines (16th to 19th centuries). Intramuros gives its visitors a taste of Spain, from all its wellpreserved churches, forts, dungeons and old buildings that have been repurposed as offices, museums, residences or business estbalishments. It even has some restaurants that specialize in Spanish food. The best part about Intramuros is that since there is so much to see and experience, one day is not enough to explore the whole thing. Personally, it was because of my visits to Intramuros that I got inspired to learn Spanish, and be interested in European culture, as I’ve always been more inclined to Asian culture and history. It is also definitely one of the places I go to when I feel like “going to Europe for the day.” Recently, Instituto Cervantes de Manila, the cultural arm of the Spanish Embassy, opened a satellite office in Intramuros, so visitors can have even more opportunities to experience authentic Spanish culture inside Intramuros.”

Gilbert Jacob S. Que

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THE LOUNGE From whom can we learn best when it comes to understanding and appreciating all that Europe has to offer? From the experts, of course. We spoke with one of KLM’s top airline executives to enlighten us about what makes Europe everyone’s dream destination, and what travelers can further look forward to in their journeys there. Europe, after all, while rooted in history, is constantly evolving. but created synergies for a competitive advantage, we brought together commercial and technical skills and we focus our resources on one joint ambition – to be a successful, innovative and creative airline (group) and to retain customers and attract new ones. What have been the advantages from this merger?

BAS HOGENDORF Country Manager AIR FRANCE-KLM ROYAL DUTCH AIRLINES

The Air France KLM merger is considered a high-profile one. What led to it?

Airlines are always looking for ways to offer an increasing number of destinations and services and two airlines together are stronger than one. Air France and KLM decided to combine strengths and formed the Air France KLM group in April 2004. The Air France KLM group main areas of business are passenger transport, cargo transport and aircraft maintenance. Air France and KLM Royal Dutch Airlines have maintained their own individual prestigious brands

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Advantages of working together are endless and offers a strong competitive advantage. We want to be the airline group that customers prefer to do business with, excel in customer intimacy and offer an enriching experience extending far beyond the journey itself. To put it into numbers: in 2018 we offer customers a network covering 314 destinations in 116 countries thanks to our five brands Air France, KLM Royal Dutch Airlines, Joon, Transavia and HOP! We currently have a fleet of 537 aircraft in operation and together we carried 98.7 million passengers in 2017. Together we operate 2,300 daily flights, mainly from our 2 hubs at Paris-Charles de Gaulle and Amsterdam-Schiphol Airport.

Please give us a background on SkyTeam and why it was established?

The SkyTeam alliance currently has 20 member airlines and offers access to 1070 destinations in 177 countries and together we can make global travel seamless. In June 2000 Aeromexio, Air France, Delta Air Lines and Korean Air founded SkyTeam. To work together with airlines from every corner of the planet we can together continue to offer our customers more destinations, more frequencies, better connectivity and for example joint frequent flyer benefits. What have been the advantages since the SkyTeam was rolled out in 2000?

Skyteam has gone from strength to strength and is able to deliver a seamless travel experience so travelers can speed through airports, regardless of the airline or frequent flyer programme. With SkyPriority travelers also get a red carpet priority services at more than 1,000 airport around the world. How has the low-cost carrier industry affected your revenue and operations?

It offers us an opportunity to innovate and ensure that we stay competitive. Within Europe for example we offer new products such as Flight Bundle when travellers regularly fly within Europe. They can book their economy or business tickets in advance and pick a date and grab a flight whenever they feel like a little break. Flight Bundle is convenient and often offered at low prices. Please tell us about the roots of Transavia.

Transavia is a budget airline established in 1965 and is part of the Air France KLM Group offering

charter and scheduled flights to over 110 destinations in EuropeTransavia has six home bases; they are located in the Netherlands and France. Your airline is one of the few remaining airlines from Europe that flies to Manila; why do you think have other airlines discontinued their routes to Manila? Why has your airline kept it?

KLM has been flying to Manila since 1951 when we launched a scheduled flight connecting Amsterdam and Tokyo with a stop in Manila, KLM was the first Western airline to serve Manila and we plan to continue our daily flights between Manila and Amsterdam via Taipei for a long time to come. What exactly does Flying Blue mean?

Flying Blue is our joint frequent traveler program and is one of the leaders in Europe with over 15 million members.

In how many countries in the South East Asia does Air France and KLM fly to? What is your busiest route?

On departure from our hubs ParisCharles de Gaulle and AmsterdamSchiphol Airport, Air France KLM offers over 57 weekly flights to 8 destinations in South East Asia.

How long will your tour of duty be here in the Philippines, and what are your goals for Air France KLM here in the Philippines? Have you met any of these, so far?

I arrived in Manila last year (summer of 2017) and usually an oversea posting is for three years. My goal is to create a strong sales and marketing team that can develop the market, retain customers, but also find new ones. We want to be the airline of choice to Europe and beyond.

What places have you been to here in the Philippines? Which ones are your favorite?

I have been to Cebu and Palawan and out of those two, Palawan is my favorite. I really enjoyed the boat trips between the two beautiful little islands of El Nido and Coron, with their white beaches and the crystal clear blue sea, it is paradise! What do you consider to be the greatest challenges you are facing, given your post?

I enjoy the challenges as my job as Country Manager and I am very fortunate to work with a great team. I think my biggest challenge is very similar to what everyone experiences living in a big city like Manila, the traffic jams and the noise can be overwhelming at times

For those who have no idea yet where to go in Europe, what country do you suggest for them to see first and why?

Of course being Dutch I would obviously mention the Netherlands, a visit to Amsterdam is a must! It is a charming city and there is nothing better than strolling along the many canals. But besides the Netherlands, I can also highly recommend Tirol in Austria or South Tirol in Italy. The mountain landscape and views are stunning. During my childhood, I spent a lot of time there and have very fond memories.

How do you relax and unwind?

Sometimes I need to escape the busy and hectic city and go for long hikes with my dog, Ayla in the mountains just outside Manila. It gives me time to reflect and unwind after a busy week at work. I really appreciate the beauty of nature, the fresh air and the silence. And I also really enjoy cooking and the process of preparing a meal. So a perfect Sunday for me is putting together a delicious meal and inviting friends over for lunch or dinner to chat and eat! What is your dream destination and why?

Working for an airline, I am very lucky to have discovered many amazing destinations in the world. There is however one country that has a very special place in my heart and that is South Africa. The beauty of the country, the variety of cultures and its delicious food make it one of my favorite places.

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FINE DINING

Prestidegustation

The latest branch of Lemuria in McKinley Hill, BGC, was the site of another epicurean expedition for our resident fine dining expert Chris Cruz with lensman Gabriel Dela Cruz.

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Duck Breast with Potato Lyonnaise

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N

ormally, the best view you can have of a city is from the top, but that’s not always true. From a cozy wooden couch with canvas pillows, I sat comfortably and took in Bonifacio Global City in all its sleek cosmopolitan glory. I was surrounded by imposing towers of steel, concrete and mirrored glass, juxtaposed by lush, riotous greenery. It seemed as if I was in a secret oasis. There was nary a soul, with only a merrily bubbling, seven-tiered obsidian fountain to keep me company. Despite the rain coming down as one thick, gray droning haze, I was nice and dry, cocooned in a cavernous atrium oblivious to the rest of the chaos beyond. I was not surprised that the owners of Lemuria chose their next branch to be in the verdant sprawl of The Plaza @ Arya Residences in McKinley Hill. Their original branch in Horseshoe Village in Quezon City is also very much a hidden sanctum, with pocket gardens and solariums within the heart of the metropolis. So it was fitting that this new branch would be just as discreet a haven, with such a refreshingly welcoming ambience right at the center of one of the fastest developing urban centers in the country. Just like their original branch, Lemuria BGC has a wine cellar of its own, though not as huge as its elder sibling’s, it is cunningly worked into a stairway heading to the second floor of the restaurant and lined with shelves of Lemuria’s impressive selection of German, Chilean, Argentinian and Romanian wines. It is here in this magical place that Lemuria’s head chef, Kevin Andaya, weaves his arcane gustatory sorceries. Among his greatest tricks are making dishes that look so tiny and dainty incredibly filling, while extremely reasonably priced. When I remarked that Lemuria here in McKinley looked like a more modern version of their original branch in Horseshoe Village, he smiled fiercely as he exclaimed, “You got it! We want to offer the same things we offer there – great food, great service and charm – but the overall feel is a lot more modern.” Chef Kevin and the owners of the restaurant chain, Marina and Klaus Schroeder, wanted to reach a wider customer base. “So to do that, we’re now open for lunch and people can come in looking a little less formal, like in shorts – just don’t come in wearing flipflops or a bathrobe. But we want it to all be charming, not intimidating.” Just then, a waiter brought in a plate of greens and dumplings circling what appeared to be a creamy green sauce. “We call this dish the Caesar Salad Revisited because of its components, such as the anchovies, Parmesan cheese and the mustard and garlic-based dressing. I prefer softer greens rather than the typical Romaine lettuce. We have pureed lettuce in the middle.” He then bade me spear the lettuce with my fork, dip the lettuce into the puree, and take a bite. It was refreshing, not quite like a vegetable smoothie but something more alive. However, when I did the same with the chicken and jamon serrano roulades, the result was more spectacular and especially delightful, with a sip of Kabinett Dry Riesling.

It is here in this magical place that the chef weaves his arcane gustatory sorceries.

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From top: The private dining area; Caesar Salad Revisited; signature desserts Lava Cake and Gateau l’Opera; al fresco and interior dining.

Chef Kevin then held up a plate with a meaty cake surrounded by greens, rounds of French bread and topped with a glistening, bouncy egg yolk, dusted with some sort of red powder. “This is our organic beef Steak Tartare,” he said with a flourish. “That’s red wine salt on top of the egg.” Chef Kevin then deftly mixed the egg yolk, red wine salt, wispy amaranth and fresh steak tartar into a shiny paste, which he spooned onto a crispy bread round. The resulting canape was hearty and comforting, and went smashingly with a glass of 2011 Calicanto from Chile, a mischievous blend of cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and cabernet franc with cocoa, plums and cherries. But the haymakers in this heavenly match were still to come. The Duck Breast with Potato Lyonnaise was brought in, two luscious chunks of lovingly roasted duck glazed in fig syrup with carrot slices, pearlescent pickled onions, gobs of olive oil reduction and an inch-high stack of thinly sliced herbed potatoes. “This is Canadian duck,” pointed out Chef Kevin. “We always get it whole so it’s a lot easier for us to figure out if it’s fresh. We fabricate it (cut up a bird for cooking), make the skin crispy and we finish it. Wild honey on top, salt, pepper and red wine reduction.” He suggested I try the duck together with the pickled onions. The duck tasted like foie gras and the vinegary tartness of the onions made merry music with the fig glaze in my mouth. The Potato Lyonnaise made the dish even more scrumptious with the creamy slices being almost just that close to velvety mashed potato yet retaining enough firmness that made them akin to baby pancakes. Sierra Batuco Cabernet Sauvignon made for a wonderful companion wine to the duck and the pancakes, with the Batuco’s lively candied strawberry notes disappearing in a flash with hardly an aftertaste to overwhelm the senses. However good the Duck Breast was, the Flounder Florentine by comparison is the stuff dreams are made of. Devilishly creamy and cheesy, yet with not a hint of mozzarella, raclette or cheddar in sight, the delicately poached flounder melted on my tongue like Ghirardelli chocolate under the warm Tuscan sun. “Notice the hollandaise sauce? It’s finished with virgin coconut oil,” revealed Chef Kevin. “The difference is subtle, but it’s there once you know what to look for. Its texture goes well with the flakiness of the flounder and the spinach cream. It marries them.” Acting as the reverend presiding over said marriage was the Schubert Sauvignon Blanc, a lively, fruity wine with a delicate finish and citrusy notes. For dessert, we went for a modern historical classic – the Gateau l’Opera originally conceived by chef Cyriaque Gavillon, that reminded his wife of the Palais Garnier Opera House due to its decadence. The layers of nuts, wafers, chocolate and crème all did an aria in my belly and I could imagine the original Phantom of the Opera himself, Lon Chaney (Sorry Gerard Butler, no cake for you!), coming back from the grave for a nibble of this scrumptiously wicked dish.

Clockwise from top: Steak Tartare; head chef Kevin Andaya; Flounder Florentine.

One can never have too much chocolate, and the Lava Chocolate Cake was a fitting way to bring the evening to an end. The incredibly spongy cake sat souffle-like, dusted with confectioner’s sugar and spun sugar décor, sat beside fresh strawberry slices and a scoop of aromatically in-your-face durian ice cream. Up until now, I had never tried durian ice cream and chocolate together, let alone one with steaming hot chocolate cascading from the center, like quicksilver from an alchemist’s crucible. It paired nicely with Lemuria’s own house blend, a unique brew of arabica, barako and South American indigenous coffee, care of their own independent supplier, Slurp Coffee. Magnifique!

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A Bestseller in the Making

Discover how Epilogue Fine Bistro melds European sophistication with Japanese discipline, chapter after delectable chapter, as experienced by writer Angie Duarte and photographer Gabriel Dela Cruz.

Admit it – you’ve done it at least once in your life. You’ve jumped to the end of a really good book to see how it would all work out. How the protagonist would fare, how the antagonist would get his or her comeuppance, how it would all end “happily ever after” (or, at least how you hoped that it would). I know I’ve done it many times before, I’ve impatiently skimmed through each page leading to the final chapter. You see, that is the effect a good read should have on the reader: it should have a pull so strong, you just have to arrive at the conclusion; which, once you get there, is akin to a cathartic experience. That is the unmistakable, inescapable draw of the epilogue. Imagine, now, a restaurant named after that specific part of a book you simply cannot put down – and, perhaps, you can also imagine the palatepleasing culinary culmination in store.

A journey into deliciousness

Of course, all good stories evolve from a common place – the beginning. Epilogue’s starting point was in 2013, when the family-owned Food Revolution Group of Restaurants first ventured into the business of all things delicious. Some years and numerous dining establishments later, Epilogue was, shall we say, published. “The epilogue is the final part of the book. It contains the best parts. Likewise, we are all about the culmination of the talents of each of our chefs. Epilogue is a showcase of the culinary journey of each chef, so far, and this is what we bring to the Manila dining scene,” shares Alyanna Uy, Food Revolution’s president and CEO. “We are also all about offering dishes that reflect the best of ‘travel cuisine’ – we aim to bring the techniques and quality that you find abroad here to Manila, in unique and unexpected ways,” she adds.

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Foie’s Gold, indulgent pan seared foie gras on a bed of portobello mushroom and mushroom risotto, is among Epilogue’s culinary masterpieces.

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The result of this carefully-written narrative is a menu brimming with sophistication and excitement, skillfully created by executive chef, Hiroyuki Meno. Founded on the principles of classic French cuisine, every dish is a flavorful union of European sophistication and Japanese discipline. “There is a story behind each dish, which is somehow reflective of the experiences of Epilogue’s chefs and their culinary experiences. A lot of restaurants, these days, are not chef-driven. Here, we focus on the skill of the chef,” Yu points out. So, as a result of chef-driven skill, you have genius masterpieces as Verde e Nero, a delightful combination of handcrafted orecchiette, sautéed baby squid, kale pesto, asparagus, haricot vert and pignoli; Foie’s Gold, appetizing pan-seared Ernest Soulard foie gras, mushroom risotto, rosemary-garlic Portobello, baby spinach and pink peppercorns; and so much more. But, careful not to come across as the gastronomic equivalent of a literary snob, the much-raved-about restaurant likewise serves more familiar dishes, such as a selection of hearty wood-fired pizzas and an array of cookies that I can only describe as simply divine. “The sophistication we offer can best be seen in our degustation menu, where chef Meno conceptualizes dishes to surprise even the more discriminating diners,” Yu remarks. “We try to keep our regular menu more inviting, though – our menu is not limiting. We really do not even classify ourselves as ‘fine dining,’ but as ‘fine bistro,’” she explains, noting that Epilogue caters to a variety of diners.

The unfolding of kodawari

Top L-R: Starter dish of fresh scallops; Crispy Amadai entrée; cured salmon and Moscato; hearty Verde e Nero orecchiette. Bottom: Epilogue’s striking interiors and glass ceiling.

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One key aspect of the Epilogue plot is the Japanese concept of kodawari, which is the drive for perfection and meticulousness. This almost painstaking attention to detail is one that Chef Meno (and every chef on the team) applies to all aspects of Epilogue, from the patient purchasing of the farm-fresh, high-quality ingredients that go into each

L-R: Executive chef Hiroyuki Meno; the vibrant bar area serves signature cocktails; Food Revolution’s president-CEO Alyanna Uy.

sorbet, with tomato clear jelly and basil pesto. On its delicious creation, to the skillful plating of the finished product, and all heels, there’s the dish simply called Egg. But make no else in between. And, it is in the “in between” that kodawari mistake, the medley of flavors of this hot-cold soft boiled egg unfolds, precisely and passionately. stuffed with King Crab meat and maple cream, atop brioche, is “All our food items, even the sauces and stocks, are far from simplistic. made from scratch. Everything is handmade, with skill and An exotic, exciting entrée called Norway is next: cured precision, because that is really the only way you can truly salmon, poireaux vinaigrette, lumpfish caviar, with mini cubes guarantee quality,” Chef Meno, who trained in France at the of Moscato jelly, plus tart, citrusy yuzu. French foie Michelin-starred Les Hautes Roche and in Fukuoka The muchgras follows, served with eggplant compote and wild under legendary chef Paul Bocuse, explains. “We are arugula swathed in reduced balsamic vinegar, a nice not only after the finest quality, but also consistency awaited contrast to the almost-decadently rich foie gras. – to be able to repeat what we do, daily. This is where chapter of this The succeeding dish proves to be my favorite: the kodawari discipline comes in,” he emphasizes. a lovely Crispy Amadai – perfectly cooked tilefish, Chef Meno is so committed to this philosophy that story comes in plump on the inside, light and crisp on the outside, he, one month into first arriving in Manila, personally the form of an with creamy clam foam, on a Moringa risotto base. visited and explored numerous local wet markets to This dish is a true sensation on the palate; a subdued determine the best sources of specific ingredients. eight-course yet bold riot of flavor and texture. At some point in the conversation, chef degustation, The Wagyu MB5 is every meat-lover’s dream, Tomohide Ono, Epilogue’s executive baker, joins us paired with celeriac apple, caramelized onion puree, and chimes in on kodawari. Chef Ono is responsible prepared green peppers and spring onions. for all the incredibly scrumptious breads that come by Chef Dessert, beautiful dessert, is in the form out of the restaurant’s ovens. These piping hot, of a banana tart, another quick favorite of mine. mouthwatering creations (such as red wine bread Meno for the Sensational, smooth almond cream, caramelized with cream cheese, and olive bread with red and asianTraveler banana, vanilla ice cream and caramel sauce work green olive bits and Gouda cheese) fly off the racks together in ways almost too perfect to put into words. – they are that good. Chef Ono, who has been baking team. A nice, hot cup of Kro (Epilogue’s in-house coffee for over two decades, comes to work at the crack of brand) is a must to top off the feast. dawn every day and bakes for five hours to prepare Epilogue’s Aside from its impressive roster of dishes, Epilogue array of breads, served fresh daily. Now that’s some serious also offers a full bar of spirits, an extensive wine selection, a kodawari for you. variety of double-chilled beers, and twelve creatively concocted signature cocktails. A crowd pleaser among the latter is the Perfectly authored dishes White Queen, a vodka-based, lychee-infused drink whose The much-awaited chapter of this story comes in the form of delicate sweetness belies the punch it packs. an eight-course degustation, prepared by Chef Meno for the Indeed, a meal at Epilogue is an expertly authored, asianTraveler team. Each dish comes out of the kitchen in steady gastronomic journey that will have you eagerly anticipating the succession and the aromas waft in the air, tickling and taunting, sequel. Enjoy every single bite and savor each morsel, much stirring up a ravenous appetite in us. as you would carefully chew on and mull over the words of a For starters, a light and refreshing palate-cleansing bestselling book. Caprese of mozzarella buffalo, stuffed tomato and pineapple

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The Cellar’s cavernous wine cellar. Opposite: air-dried jamon serrano ready for tapas.

42 Escape to Europe

He Sells Mantuary How could have The Cellar, one of the Hyatt’s newest concept restobars, brought writer Chris Cruz and photographer Don Oco on a thrilling ride across international flavors, while making them feel at home? Read on and find out.

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lass stairs in emerald and jade hues hang suspended on gleaming struts like literal stairways to heaven. I climb them, marveling at how they seem to float effortlessly around the main lobby of the Grand Hyatt Manila in Bonifacio Global City. Underneath, pinlights illuminate a shallow but broad pool resembling liquid midnight, stretching elegantly across the floor. Frosted glass panels the color of the morning sea undulate in delicate waves, highlighting massive columns that loom over the area. Later on, I hear that the whole look is inspired by the Banawe Rice Terraces in the Cordilleras. It’s not hard to see the aesthetic connection. I make my way to The Cellar, one of the Hyatt’s newest concept restobars. In stark contrast to the glitz and airy artfulness of the main lobby, The Cellar’s entrance seems nondescript at first, a wooden panel with its name in simple metal lettering marking the spot. Beside it is a ornate wrought-iron door leading to a brick-lined hallway reminiscent of the canals underneath Paris. Other rooms with similar doors house wall-to-wall wine refrigerators and broad wooden tables with stately yet comfortable leather chairs. As I enter the

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main bar itself, the aesthetics shift, as if one designer suddenly changed his mind and went with another entirely different look, midway. One room sports traditional broad stained-glass latticework of the style seen in provincial Filipino houses. Another holds panels of used wood stacked in thin slivers facing a worn-out wall that looked like it came from a Spanish-Colonial hacienda. A cupboard suspended from the ceiling holds empty wine bottles, the labels bearing signatures and messages of kudos and wellwishes from, I assume, the people responsible for emptying said bottles. On the bar’s countertop is an electronic tablet The Cellar’s staff calls a digital sommelier – it’s one of several that are strategically placed all over the restobar. Aleah Alam, the Grand Hyatt’s assistant marketing and communications manager beams with delight as she swipes the screen, her delicate fingers tracing the icons on the tablet. The app houses The Cellar’s entire wine list, categorized according to fun classifications. With a wry and charming smile, Alam chooses Celebrity Picks. At random, the app shows silver screen luminaries such as George Clooney and Scarlett Johansson, and their personal favorites (ScarJo apparently has a fondness for Moet et Chandon). It’s a clever bit of marketing – who wouldn’t be curious to try something your favorite movie or TV actor drinks from time to time? Gottfried Bogensperger, the area vice president and general manager of the Grand Hyatt Manila, tells me how it all comes together. The first thing he does is he corrects my initial impression that The Cellar is a wine cellar. “It’s a man cave in a house,” he begins. “When we talk about The Cellar, we don’t see it as a wine cellar but as a component in one big house. Think of the Grand Hyatt as one enormous house, and our restaurants and amenities laid out as individual rooms inside that house. This is why we have restaurants such as the Grand Kitchen – it’s the kitchen of the house. The Cellar is your basement.” Despite the comprehensive bar list, Bogensperger aspires for The Cellar to go beyond being the average watering hole. “Yes, we do have wine here at the Cellar, but it’s not our central focus,” he continues. “We want The Cellar to be your haven. So what would you put in your cellar? You’d want a nice, big table, something not too formal. Maybe a basement bar for your buddies to hang out in. You have beers and scotch and little plates of food for sharing – no fancy, sit-down dining food, but the

Opposite, clockwise: Pancetta spinning in the oven, Grilled Rib-Eye Steak, Grilled Chicken on Lemongrass Skewers. This page, clockwise: Hyatt general manager Gottfried Bogensperger; a private table; chef de partie Diorella Ong; Baked Camembert.

kind of comfort food you look for at the The Jamon Iberico and Cheese Croquetas with tomato chutney is no less end of a long, rough day.” orgasmic, with a potato crust that gives way just as you sink your teeth into that soft Admittedly, things are still in mashed potato, cheese and Iberian ham center. When the Endive Salad with lettuce, flux and ideas are being tested at The poached pear, blue cheese cubes and walnuts with mustard dressing comes in, I notice Cellar, as he explains: “We’re all about a trend. Our dishes came courtesy of the painstaking efforts of chef de partie Diorella looking into what our market wants and Ong and I realized that her signature style is beautiful food with enticing aromas and coming up with something flavorful bits that are rave parties of flavor on my taste buds, complete with the I get to gastronomic equivalents of glowsticks and a thrumming bass beat. I confirmed original and creative that see this will engage them, without this with the Warm Tomato Salad made of cherry tomatoes, crispy pancetta, copying anyone. It’s being creativity and shallots, pine nuts and balsamic vinegar. The cherry tomatoes pop, like cherries. authentically us. It’s not easy Grilled Chicken on lemongrass skewers, cooked with sugar cane, coconut individuality The to do but that’s the challenge. milk soy sauce and sweet chili sauce, was no less interesting. My host bid me in action, chew on a lemongrass skewer before I popped the tangy meat into my mouth. We’re not trying to reinvent with The As the juices dribble down my throat, more neurons begin to explode in my the wheel, we’re just asserting our individuality and showing Cellar’s head like fireworks. The Grilled Rib Eye Steak with salsa verde, parley and who we are.” parmesan salad, is equally as interesting. However, when The Cellar’s own dishes. I get to see this traditional Valenciana Paella, with shrimps, mussels, chicken, chorizo, saffron, creativity and individuality in action, paprika and lemon is brought in, Bogensperger declares it to be one of the best in the with The Cellar’s dishes. We began city. It is not an idle boast. our meal together with some Baked These were paired with a Chateau Cap de Fer 2016, a genuine Bordeaux Camembert with walnuts, figs, honey Superieur red that’s actually affordable. With its strawberry notes and brisk finish, this and baguette rounds. With the precision wine went well with practically everything on the menu. Even the Baked Calamansi and aplomb of a gourmet chef (some Tart with cream chantilly and raspberry sauce, and the Almond Coconut Orange Cake time ago, Bogensperger was one), my with whipped cream, worked nicely with it. host spreads some of the molten cheese “We want people to associate us with comfort, for them to feel absolutely on a baguette round and expertly drizzles comfortable,” fondly states Bogensperger. “I want people to say, ‘Hey, I like this place! it with honey. The resulting concoction It makes me feel good. I want to come back over and over and over again!’ I would is pure euphoria – it feels like the sudden be so happy to see people enjoying The Cellar that much, for them to consider it an kiss of that cute girl next door that you extension of their home.” Of that, I have no doubt. always wanted to date but never had the guts to ask out.

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46 Escape to Europe

La Vita e Bella

Buona Vita Ristorante Italiano, with its every authentic offering, undeniably captured the true spirit of Italy for writer Chris Cruz and photographer Don Oco. Walking outside the long, flat stretch of restaurants and shops of the Molito Lifestyle Building, I searched the various facades for Buona Vita Ristorante Italiano. I finally found the cozy little Italian restaurant snuggled between two others. Inside, I took note of its Mediterranean White bar topped with gleaming ale taps and espresso makers. Thomas Moersheim, founder and general manager of Buona Vita waves me in and bids me to sit down at a high corner table. Across from us stretches a glass counter much like a bar, with whimsically colorful tiles. Moersheim says he got them locally from an Italian who makes them in Laguna. Small wonder everything looked fresh and new – apparently, Molito wasn’t Buona Vita’s original home. “We started in 2009 in Bacoor, Cavite, along Daang Hari Road opposite Verdana Homes,” he began. “My wife and I decided to try a restaurant as a hobby. We love Italian food and wine. Our favorite restaurant at that time was along Zapote Road and when they shut down, at first jokingly, but later on seriously, we started thinking about having our own Italian restaurant, so we could eat the food we like.” “Buona Vita wasn’t opened with a lot of profit in mind, but passion for food and wine and sharing it with people who like those things. So we put all the dishes we like in the menu at that time,” Moersheim explained.

Opposite: a quartet of Polpette trancios. This page: Alla Milanese con Luganiga risotto.

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“Pure ingredients may be harder to make, but they make the food more authentic, more real, and healthier.” Apparently, many others agreed with those choices. “People started hearing about us and it became like a challenge to come over,” recounts Moersheim. “‘Did you hear about this place in the middle of nowhere? They serve decent Italian food.’ We got known for that and people went through quite a bit of trouble to come to us. That was in 2012 and we were there for three years and our little restaurant had grown a bit as well, with a little function room on the side.” “What you’re seeing right now is actually only two months old,” he points out. “The whole idea of it being a walk-in Italian counter buffet and takeout is that recent, and that’s why we’re calling it an Italian café. This is the kind of place you would see in the streets of Rome. You can just walk in, get a pizza al trancio (it’s the famous Italian street food) or a panini and a beer or a glass of wine, and eat them outside or while you’re heading to wherever you want to go next.” Moersheim is proud of the fact that Buona Vita’s food is nothing but real, honest Italian food. “Most of our ingredients are made from scratch,” he states. “We bake our own bread and make our own pizza crusts, but we also don’t bother with shortcuts like using flavored buillon cubes for making soup stock. Pure ingredients may be harder to make, but they make the food more authentic, more real, and healthier. We use real olive oil in all of our cooking. If it weren’t for the fact that Italian food in general has so much carbs, it’s actually quite healthy.” “Everyone that comes here thinks that we’re only for birthdays and anniversaries and other special occasions,” laments Moersheim. “Truth is we offer reasonable prices. There’s no reason why you can’t come over every day for good Italian food.” I nod in agreement – their prices aren’t too far from the higher end fast food offerings. At this point, we head over to the bar to see chef Davide Lombardi and sample his dishes. Chef Davide is the brain and hands that execute Moersheim’s gastronomic visions, and there’s a plethora of pizzas in front of us. I saw square pizzas roughly the shape and size of gift-sized chocolate boxes. “These are called trancio,” explains Chef Davide. “Trancio is more like bread with topping than it is a proper pizza. It’s very good for takeout.” I suspect the word shares much in common with the French word tranchier (to cut) for the literal translation of trancio is “slice.” “You can eat it cold or you can reheat it. It’s good for 2 to 3 days in the refrigerator,” elaborates Moersheim. All the Pizza al Trancios have mozzarella cheese, tomato sauce and are drizzled with extra virgin olive oil but there are different variants. Zucchine has zucchini and fresh mint leaves while the Salame has Salame Milano (Milanese salami) topping it. My personal favorite is the Polpette, which has scrumptious beef meatballs. We move on to more recognizable pizzas, the deceptively delicate-looking ones with simple ingredient combinations. The Capricciosa has Italian salami, olives, mushrooms, bell pepper and onions, while the Margherita has mozzarella cheese and fresh basil and all are prepared Buona Vita-style, called Romana. One recognizable trait of the Romana

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Opposite, from top: Pizza Margherita, Panini Tonno, Panini Vegetariana, Crostata al Mango. This page, clockwise from top: Pizza Pinocchio Cones, Buona Vita’s general manager Thomas Moersheim, Trancio Salami Milano, chef Davide Lombardi, a casual yet elegant dining set up.

is a crispy crust that remains soft at the center and firm towards the edges. Moersheim nods knowingly. It’s all part of the design of the pizza. “The Romana style of pizza is thin. It’s a balance of crust and topping, which makes it very attractive,” he continues. “We also do a hand-tossed version which has a thicker crust at the end.” I try a slice of the hand-tossed Margherita and can’t decide which of the two I enjoyed more. “All our pizzas are cooked in stone ovens. We have some steel ovens that have terra cotta tiles inside them for the trancios but the Romana-style pizzas are cooked in a brick oven. It’s not just for show. For pizza, it’s important to have very homogenous, consistent heat so the crust doesn’t end up with those black bitter spots underneath. Rolling the dough is very important too. It has to be even and without that, you get all these burnt parts.” We then get to try a house specialty called Pinocchio Pizza. These pizza cones are filled to the brim with cheese and toppings, and the crust is

something that dreams are made of. “It took us months to perfect the crust so it’s not too hard but it holds all the cheese and toppings without leaking,” confides Chef Davide. “We did not want to use waffle cones like what the Americans do,” adds Moersheim. “We wanted a more authentic Italian version. It looks like Pinocchio’s nose and his pointy hat, like from the traditional non-Disney story.” Aside from the usual Capricciosa and Margherita, the Pinocchios included an Al Formaggi (five cheese) and Italian Ham version. I promptly inhaled them all. The All-Gourmet Panini followed. Each traditional sandwich has fresh lettuce, tomatoes and pickles but the Allo Speck has smoked ham with Provolone cheese, while the Vegetariana has grilled zucchini, red bell pepper, eggplant and asparagus, drizzled with pesto sauce. The Prosciutto Crudo panini sports parma ham with Fontina cheese, while the Tonno has chunky tuna. These we sampled with glasses of Weihenstephaner Hefe Weissbier, a beer from the world’s oldest brewery.

Next came the Risotti-Al Funghi, Italian rice cooked with porcini mushrooms; then the Alla Milanese con Luganiga, a risotto cooked with saffron and Italian sausage. I especially liked the Al Funghi’s creamy richness and deep wine and mushroom flavor. Fresh from the ovens came a Pizza Frita, a personal pie-sized calzone with a crust so delicate and evenly baked that when sliced down the middle, the cheese came running out like hot lava from Pompeii. This went amazingly with a pint of Schweiger beer, crisp and straight from the tap. We finish with Crostata al Mango – fresh mango tart topped with clotted cream and Torta al Cioccolato – chocolate sponge cake with ganache and maraschino cherry. The truly delightful dish was the Chocolate Panna Cotta or bodino, a pudding so jiggly we played with it a bit before spooning its silkiness into our mouths. If Roberto Benigni had a meal here, he’d kiss every single person responsible.

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Full flavor, full heart

In Manila’s upscale Rossini Ristorante Italiano, writer Donna Patricia Manio and photographer Don Oco discover and celebrate the taste of authentic Italian-French cuisine, one delectable plate at a time.

Seafood is traditional Italian fare, and Rossini’s Salmone e Gamberi Spadellati is an elegant, delicately flavored dish.

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amed opera virtuoso Gioachino Rossini gave everything up for his love of food. After composing 40 oeuvres, including the wildly successful “Barber of Seville”, the greatest Italian composer of his generation left it all behind to host lavish parties. He did this so he could learn about the best ingredients, cook, eat and philosophize about food. “I know of no more admirable occupation than eating, that is really eating. Appetite is for the stomach what love is for the heart,” Rossini once said, making him one of the most beloved culinary figures in the world.

Restauranteur Thomas Moersheim and executive chef Davide Lombardi share the same passion for food. They have taken on the challenge of bringing out the best flavors from simple, yet choice ingredients, a cornerstone of true Italian cooking. Moersheim, a true food aficionado, is committed to sharing Italian taste and quality with the discerning Filipino diner. This isn’t the Italian-American fare – chicken parmigiana, cheesy meatball spaghetti – most of us are familiar with. While Italian food can be quite difficult to define as the country’s cuisine varies from region to region, it is loved for its bold flavors from the most basic ingredients. The burgeoning Philippine restaurant scene, Moersheim says, has matured enough: now is the time to introduce authentic Italian flavors in a country that’s known for its unapologetically sweet spaghetti. As we prepared to sample Chef Lombardi’s creations, Moersheim tells us one of the many reasons why Rossini is special. “Majority of the ingredients we use are sourced from Italy. We have Setaro pasta from Naples. They’re rated as one of the world’s best and we have them here in the Philippines exclusively. In fact, chef Davide convinced them to ship their pasta all the way here. They don’t deal with middlemen and are very picky with who they work with.” Looking around, it’s easy to see that the Moersheim-Lombardi duo is serious about elevating authentic Italian food in the country. From the food to the wine and to the décor, they made sure to have it all down pat. Rossini Ristorante Italiano is nestled in the quiet S Maison mall fronting Manila Bay. It’s a perfect spot for anyone who wishes to enjoy their meals unhurriedly. The restaurant’s façade is adorned by small, wooden window frames, a homage to upscale Italian establishments of the milieu. The place looks and feels like a pocket of Italy in the composer’s age, a curious

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time capsule of the era’s culture. Inside, it is relaxed and simple, an excellent backdrop for a plate-by-plate gastronomic trip to Italy and France, where the restaurant’s namesake spent his later years. Everything in Rossini is made fresh, shares chef Lombardi, as he joins us and sets the appetizer, Salmone Marinato con Spuma di Formaggio, on the table. When asked about his love for food, the soft-spoken chef tells us that it all started when he was a boy living in Milan. “I grew up with my grandmother and she had a garden with fresh vegetables and fruits, so all her cooking made me passionate about food.” Chef Lombardi, enamored by flavors and textures, set out to culinary school. He then landed his first job in a Michelin-starred restaurant near his home, setting the trajectory of his culinary career. He has since worked in some of Europe’s top kitchens. Trying the Salmone is a true delight, a fitting prelude for the many dishes to come. This tiny but satisfying bite easily shows Chef Lombardi’s genius in the kitchen. The cheese mousse envelopes and tempers the cured salmon’s ocean taste, while the lemon wedge ties all the flavors together. Paired with crisp lettuce and a disc of puff pastry, it has a balanced texture of smoothness, chunkiness and crunch. It’s the perfect appetizer for those seeking to enjoy every plate of food they want to try. Chef Lombardi then brings a pizza to the table. It isn’t a traditional Italian pizza recipe, Moersheim points out, but it is prepared the classic Romano way: this pizza bianca’s outer crust crackles when bitten, but its center is chewy and a tad softer, making each bite exciting. Pizza Rossini is the house’s signature pizza and, according to the duo, a crowd favorite. “People come back here specifically for this pizza,” Moersheim proudly shares. The mozzarella and fontina cheeses are the perfect bases for the artichoke, smoked duck breast and foie gras. The arugula gives it a kick of spice and nuttiness. For Filipinos who have yet to discover what real Italian pizza is like, Pizza Rossini offers an excellent point of reference. No Italian feast would be complete without pasta, so naturally, Chef Lombardi’s next offering to us was the Pappardelle al Ragu di Manzo. This is a thick, fresh pasta coated with tomato sauce, red wine, ground beef and parmesan cheese. It really is a departure from what Filipinos know of red sauce pasta: you really taste the tomatoes and the sharpness of the cheese. It’s a hearty pasta dish that lets you experience unadulterated flavors. While waiting for the next dish, Moersheim tells us that they also take pride in preparing slow food. Everything diners find on their plates are thoughtfully made. “We started this because we really love food. It’s not because of fame or the desire to become the number one restaurant. If you enter the restaurant business with that goal alone, you won’t succeed. You really have to love it, have the passion for it. We enjoy having people who come here to appreciate that as well.” Real risotto takes at least twenty minutes to cook, making it a quintessential Italian slow food. It is also one that’s close to Chef Lombardi’s heart, risotto being a dish his grandmother often prepared while growing up in Milan. He returns to us with Risotto alla Pescatora made with Arborio rice,

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From top, clockwise: Fegatini di Pollo on ciabatta negra; Pizza Rossini; a beloved Italian treat, the cannoli; Filleto Rossini; Risotto alla Pescatora; Salmone Marinato con Spuma di Formaggio.

Clockwise: Interiors are classy and relaxing; unwind at the bar by enjoying a fine selection of spirits; writer Donna Manio gives everything a definite thumbs up.

a selection of seafood, white wine and parmesan cheese. It is comfort and warmth in a spoon. To prepare us for the main courses, Chef Lombardi surprises us with an appetizer that’s not yet part of the menu, the Fegatini di Pollo on ciabatta negra. It’s an interesting play on texture and flavor. The earthiness of chicken liver melds well with the sweet, tangy balsamic reduction. Eating it with pieces of fried onion adds a delicate crunch to each mouthful. Chef Lombardi and Moersheim makes it a point to innovate and keep things exciting for diners, so they regularly develop surprises like this in the kitchen. Seafood is a staple in Italian cooking and Chef Lombardi brings us a plate of Salmone e Gamberi Spadellati. The fatty fish and soft salmon are delicately flavored with porcini sauce. The earthy, delicate porcini is the perfect complement to the seafood taste. The Filleto Rossini is a fitting highlight in the menu. It is the house’s version of Tournado do Rossini, a dish which origin is legend in the culinary world. Eager to learn more about what he was about to sample, Rossini interrupted the chef’s work in the kitchen. Exasperated, the chef asked the composer to leave him be, so he could do his job in the kitchen properly. “Et alors, tournez le dos,” Rossini replied. The dish became what we now know as Tournado do Rossini, and it’s so popular, many fine dining restaurants the world over has concocted their own version of it. Rossini Ristorante Italiano’s version is sublime. The tenderloin steak, cooked medium rare, is tender and lightly seasoned with truffle sauce. The crouton underneath the steak

adds a dimension of flakiness and crunch with each bite. It is accentuated by the buttery seared foie gras. Each savory mouthful is seasoned just delicately, you’ll want to have one bite after another, and another and another. A proper Italian feast wouldn’t be complete without a dessert, so Chef Lombardi whipped up a beloved Italian treat, the cannoli. This version isn’t too sweet and has a satisfying balance of chocolatey crunch and cheweyness. The ricotta-orange cream filling looks heavy, but it’s actually almost light as air. It’s a rewarding end to a full Italian meal. In addition to its selection of superb food, Rossini Ristorante Italiano prides itself for being a purveyor of fine wines. In fact, there are some rare bottles in its collection, including Pope Francis’ favorite N Zero. One of the rarer spirits here is the Calvados French 1948, distilled before World War II, but bottled in 2012. “The French hid this barrel during the war,” Moersheim tells us. “They forgot about it and it was only re-discovered in 2012. There’s a very limited supply of this in the world and we have it here in Rossini.” There’s a wine for every dish at Rossini and all of them are carefully selected. Each meal at Rossini Ristorante Italiano is full of flavor and heart, you end up wanting to pay attention to each sip of wine, to each bite of food. At a time where “the camera eats first,” and diners look for what is Instagrammable, Rossini brings us back to the basics. Their slow food packs real flavor and invites diners to relish every morsel. Every offering at Rossini Ristorante Italiano is a clear reflection of a deep love for food and the desire to share it with others, its namesake would surely be proud.

Each meal at Rossini Ristorante Italiano is full of flavor and heart, you end up wanting to pay attention to each sip of wine, to each bite of food.

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HOTELS AND RESORTS

Grilled lobster caught from the waters of Palawan on the same day.

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Cauayan Island Resort The artful reawakening of the soul Time moved in a luxuriously graceful pace within the confines of this El Nido resort, lyrical in its beauty, as writer Ara Jenika Vinzon and photographer Tabitha Fernan-Jamlang witnessed.

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o catch the sunset” must have been a phrase created by someone with no intention of slowing down — a passing thought, second only to the day’s routine, depending on the coordination of time and luck. Time, then, was measured by the boat’s descent from Cauayan Island for the sunset cruise. Every wave that coursed against each other was synonymous to the clock ticking. The setting sun meant welcoming a new hour of the day. As our boat remained stationary in the middle of the ocean, the bartender created a spectacle through the flamboyant mixing of drinks, accompanied by music playing from the speakers. I was witnessing the seconds running while I sat motionless, almost powerless. I was no longer attempting to catch the sunset, I was merely waiting for it. The struggle was in the pause. Being confined on a boat within the waters of El Nido, there was nowhere else to go. My reasons for moving remained a nagging echo, almost as strong as the song created by the waves. The bartender promised to serve everyone aboard his own surprise

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concoction. The cocktail handed to me did not help with my guilt of taking the time off — a far cry from the two couples who were enjoying the romantic view of the nightfall. The tall glass of my drink depicted the tangerine shade of the horizon. One could say that I had the sunset within the palm of my hand. The hint of coconut liqueur and grenadine left a sweet flavor in my mouth. I was on assignment, but the experience was beginning to taste like a vacation. On our way back, the dock was a welcoming sight as its lights became visible amidst the dark expanse of the waters. To the eyes that are used to city lights, it would be easy to pretend that they are constellations from afar. Never mind the fact that all I had to do was to look up to see the real ones. I knew it would take longer to change a habit. After all, it was not even half a day yet since we first arrived at Cauayan Island Resort.

THE BODY’S RAPTURE When I arrived in my villa, a pair of slippers was waiting for me by the entrance. There was a plate of bite-sized oatmeal cookies on the king-sized bed — a bed partner that perfectly filled the space that was too big for one. I remembered the tagline below the resort’s logo while connecting to their Wi-Fi: the art of laidback luxury. “The tagline is new. We did a rebranding,” Juan Roca said. Roca, the resort’s general manager, is not new to the property albeit his recent appointment on August this year. He was the general manager in the pre-opening stage of the resort in 2015. He has been familiar with it from the moment it was still on a blueprint. “We want everyone to have an experience. Here, you are not just another guest. Everybody is a special guest,” he explained. “The experience starts when you are picked up from the airport until you go back. It is the sequences of experiences, the details.” Cauayan creates

an artform out of its personalized services. The entire experience offered is well-curated for every guest. Design is cleverly embedded into the work, sometimes too subtle to be noticed, like any good work of art. True enough, Cauayan uses eco-friendly materials to recreate the laidback feeling of staying in an island, only it offers five-star service. It is a resort that adapts to nature, not the other way around. The waterfall that can be viewed from the Lagoon Villas as well as the plants that grow on every pathway appear to belong in the island even before the resort came to be. The rest of the view, however, is the island’s making. I stayed at the Beachfront Villa where it took less than twenty steps to dip my toes into the waters. The veranda’s daybed turned into a perfect spot at nighttime to take a sip of their lychee-ginger mojito, a harmonizing match to the brand of breeze that only the ocean can bring. In the morning, the horizon and shoreline are reflected upon the glass doors, almost poetic in a sense. Footsteps towards a certain destination can link the space between impression and reality. Roca mentioned that the owner fell in love with the island. This love is reflected upon the owner’s vision for the resort, now a reality in all the five types of villas that offer different picturesque views. Couples would love the tranquility and privacy of the Water Villa. Raised in stilts, the wooden deck with the drop lounge bed provides a panoramic image of sea. Groups of friends or families would enjoy the private infinity pool of the Cauayan Pool Villa. The suite itself offers a view of the resort, making it almost difficult to leave the bed. The interior design of all the villas highlights the Filipino craftsmanship by mostly using rattan, bamboo and capiz — all sourced out from the Philippines. In between the bar and the restaurant is the pool area. From a certain vantage point, the pool and the ocean seemed one. It is the similar elements from the handiwork of man and nature that create an organic unity. We stayed at a time when guests arrived in pairs. Marcos Olalla, the restaurant manager, said that proposals on the island have a 100 percent success rate, mostly done with a dinner setting on the island’s private beach. There may be no proposal for me, but excitement came close right when the huge platter of freshly-caught seafoods were shown to us. “When you go to an island, you expect to eat fresh seafoods. Apart from supporting the local community like the fishermen, it is about the quality of food that the guests will love,” Roca said. Dinner began with tuna tartar and potato salad served on a bed of lettuce. “It is one of our bestsellers,” Olalla informed us with a hint of joyful pride. Perhaps, I shouldn’t have taken a bite of the potato salad first for I had forgotten to try the tartar. The lightness of the dressing won me over. Potato salad as a starter instead of a side dish to the main course did not seem like an improbable idea

Opposite page, top to bottom: king size-bed at the Beach Front Villa; two different angles from the private deck of the Cauayan Pool Villa. This page, upper left: massage room with a view. Upper right: a private infinity pool at the Cauayan Pool Villa. Top to bottom: one of the two bedrooms at the Cauayan Pool Villa which can be converted into a living room; the resort’s pool across the beach; exterior of Lagoon Villa.

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anymore. We indulged ourselves with the grilled lobster and lapu-lapu that were shown to us earlier. Not so much frills were added in the plating of these two dishes for the stars were majestic enough on their own. Served with lemon butter sauce, tomato salsa and beurre blanc as options, I enjoyed the tangy taste of the beurre blanc with the lapu-lapu. The velvety texture of the sauce and the tenderness of the fish were harmonious — complementary without overpowering the other. Roca suggested I ask the waiter for his favorite, the Thai sauce, to go along with the lobster. The simplicity in the complexity of lemon, salt, pepper and chili mixed together worked well with the freshness of the lobster. “The vision is about freshness, we put emphasis on the local ingredients, especially the ones here in El Nido,” chef Paul Bautista explained. “We also use locally-bred Wagyu beef from Davao as our meat.” The beef tenderloin steak, however, is United States Angus beef. As expected, it was tender and did not need any superfluous blend of sauces. Served

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with truffle mashed potato and vegetables, every bite was a spoonful of luxury. Dessert was a molten lava cake with vanilla ice cream. It lived up to the juxtaposition of its name: the crunchy almond and the silky melted chocolate; the sweetness of the cake and the tartness of the strawberries. The plating was a visual treat in itself. The act of eating became a journey for the senses. THE MIND’S SERENITY Like other services offered in the resort, the island-hopping tour can be personalized as a private affair. A speed boat can be requested in exchange for the group tour. We went with the lagoon tour, covering four as permitted by our schedule. After snorkeling at Cadlao Lagoon, we were offered fresh coconut juice chilled in a glass bottle. It turned out, El Nido already prohibited the use of plastic bottles. The coconut water was perfect after dipping in the saltwater. The smell of charcoal-grilled meat and the ocean brought a wave of nostalgia, bringing me back to the family outings

we had every summer. Lunch included rice, grilled pork, chicken and fish, with platters of fruits and vegetables. We had the small lagoon in Miniloc Island to ourselves, thanks to patience and timing. The water was calm. I decided to float and close my eyes for a bit. When I opened them, I saw the sun becoming rays against the limestones surrounding the lagoon, the rays coursing through the leaves. My body felt lighter. The coldness, all forgotten. We scheduled a massage at 7 p.m. The spa is elevated from the snorkeling area. More than three people boasted that baby sharks visit the area often. “They feel safe here,” Roca mentioned the day before. The pathway of lights guided our way to the spa. The services were developed for the serene beach lifestyle. As explained by Jen, the spa’s head, the services they offer are supplementary to the entire Cauayan Island experience. Interestingly enough, the Deep Tissue Massage uses kawayan sticks to remain loyal to the name Cauayan.

Opposite page, upper L-R, lower L-R: Juan Roca, general manager; honeymooners walk hand in hand during the Lagoon hopping; view from the top of the trekking trail; limestone as a backdrop; honeymooners being playful. This page, upper L-R, lower L-R: bartender shows skills during sunset cruise; lunch served aboard; grilled meat cooked in the boat during lagoon hopping; grilled lapu-lapu with three sauces; tuna tartar and potato salad, the popular starter.

We were given the Cauayan Signature Massage, a Swedish type of massage that uses long strokes. Before that was a 15-minute foot bath. The windows and a portion of the floor are made of glass in which one can gaze at the ebb of the tide while getting pampered. I was torn between closing my eyes and staring at the hypnotizing lights dancing with the ripples of the water from below. Through the trained hands and the artful maneuvering of the towel and limbs, I was at peace. It was at that moment when I wanted the seconds to slow down. Time was ticking counter-clockwise in my head. My mind surrendering the way my body did. THE SOUL’S TRANSCENDENCE On our last day, after breakfast, we trekked choosing the more difficult route. I specifically asked for two people to accompany me and Tabitha for the possibility that I might not make it to the peak. But I did, making the twenty-

minute trek into an adventurous fifty-minute one. Our guides remained patient. Through the muddy terrain and sharp rocks, we reached the top with an aerial view of the island. Even from above, the resort did not seem out of place. The earth’s colors were prominent: the glistening turquoise waters, the green flora, the gray limestones and the terracotta villas. The resort’s claim as an eco-friendly space goes beyond the aesthetics. The resort pushes for sustainability. Bamboo straws are used instead of plastic. The solar panels will begin working by the end of the year. I knew that if my mind and body were not relaxed, I wouldn’t have reached the top. When the body allows, and the mind surrenders to the beat of the earth, the soul is reawakened. Like a well-written story, the proper ending wouldn’t arrive without resolving the conflict. The accumulations of experiences created

a story worth bringing home to. And the insight, divine. I remember the first day when Tabitha and I just arrived in the island. I ordered iced coffee, the milk on a separate container, as well as my choice of hazelnut syrup. While I was sipping it, I asked her, “Do you think I will enjoy the same coffee if I were in a busy café somewhere in Manila?” I couldn’t tell if it was merely the view that made the coffee special. Perhaps, at that time, my body already knew that I was on a vacation, but my mind took longer to catch up. Or perhaps, it was earlier when I had my first bite of ceviche while waiting for the main course. “Everything,” Roca said when I asked what the guests will miss when they leave the island. The confidence in his answer never made me question it. And now, I can tell why.

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What makes it stand out from all the other outstanding elements of the resort is the life carried within its own space.

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More than being the better half An ultimate spa immersion at Plantation Bay Resort & Spa in idyllic Mactan Island, Cebu made writer Ara Vinzon and photographer Tabitha Fernan-Jamlang see that what complements the whole can be central to its identity.

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s a piece still a part of a whole when it is complete on its own? I asked this as I walked through the stone-cobbled pathway in the presence of the young Balete trees with lavender oil permeating through the air. Everything glittered — the stars, the rocks, the springs. In daylight, the spa exuded the feeling that you are one with the world. The natural state of order achieved by its Zen architecture was reminiscent of temples in Kyoto. Yet the moonlight transformed the place into an ethereal landscape, not belonging to this dimension. Mogambo Springs, in any time of the day, appeared to be a realm of its own, entirely independent from the rest of the amenities at Plantation Bay Resort & Spa.

The spa

In the evening of our first day, I received a glimpse of what the spa has to offer. Adorned with lit candles, the marble tub in our room was filled with lukewarm water, with rose petals swimming in an aromatic concoction of Philippine herbs like banaba, pandan, mango and guava. On top

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of being a relaxing bath, it was a skin treatment with herbal nutrients. Even without the promise of its benefits, I would had been glad to end each day in such a way. The mere scent was already an assurance to a good night’s sleep, but the night did not end there. A few meters away from our room was the Mogambo Springs. I told the staff about my aching back, from the posture I have while writing. I and photographer Tabitha were led to an outdoor set-up with two massage beds and its own mini hot spring. Surrounded by rocks and plants, Tabitha and I indulged in an hour and a half of hilot with herb compress for our backs. The deep gliding strokes of the masseuse, Ms. Anne, focused on the said area, providing a much-needed relief to the pain. The following day, I was advised to receive the Dorn Massage from Ms. Cely, the spa supervisor. Done only by someone with a medical

Previous spread: wake-up to the wind gently billowing the linen of your bed in one of Plantation Bay’s suites; the amethyst stones used to eliminate toxins and improve the skin’s complexion. Opposite page: Mogambo Springs exuding serenity in its design, architecture and services. This page L-R: Oxygenating Facial with Amethyst Stone; Hyperbaric Oxygen Therapy.

background, the method is a passive exercise specifically meant to loosen the muscle that constricts the nerves of the spine and joints. The procedure included a combination of breathing and subtle body movements. In a span of an hour, I learned how my habits contributed to the current structure of my body and how to correct them. I was taught how to recreate the exercises at home by using mundane objects such as the door and towelette. The program intended the experience to be infused into my daily life, creating a familiarity out of newness — a routine better than what I was used to. “Some spa stops at massages. What we want is to focus not only on relaxation, but also wellness,” Aaron Santa Rosa, the spa manager, said. The experience was my introduction to their Loving Life Program, a four-day and seven-day spa immersion that aims to cleanse the mind, body and soul. “We are guiding them on how to have an order as to how to live healthily: the best time to eat, to exercise. At least, by the time they are done with the program, they get to have a hang of it, and they have something to take home instead of having just one service and eventually forget everything.” In addition to learning the proper food combination in consideration of the individual’s dietary concerns, the immersion also includes a five-star accommodation and spa services. The highlight of the program is the Colonics, a hydrotherapy that is meant for detoxification of the colon and intestinal tract. We went through the Hyperbaric Oxygen Therapy meant for general health and other chronic conditions. Housed inside a 7-feet enclosed machine, the thought was more frightening than the procedure. Other than the light buzzing in the ear, similar to a plane taking off, one can easily read a book inside or take a selfie. My personal favorite was the Svago and Oxygenated Facial with Amethyst Stone. Every touch was calculated in the toning, scrubbing and serum application. The amethyst stone was used to massage the face for a natural contour. And the oxygenated peeling mask left my skin soft with a post-facial glow.

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The resort

The resort aspect of Plantation Bay retains the historic charm it is famous for. The rooms welcome the view of the turquoise saltwater pool. The Xanadu suite offers a master bedroom with a private balcony for two, in addition to the poolside view of the living room connected to another room. The suite below has a balcony in which the stairs lead directly to the water. The walls of every room is decorated by a painting of a local artist. The resort’s restaurants, Kilimanjaro Kafe and Fiji, offer healthy options that the spa recommends, as marked on their respective menus. The chicken soup with quinoa from Kilimanjaro, their healthier version of arroz caldo, was doused in a flavorful broth, removing the notion that healthy is synonymous to bland. Jid Velaso, the resort’s service manager, mentioned it as her favorite: “We have our own fish pond. We also grow our own arugula.” She suggested we try the arugula salad which we did in their Spanish-themed restaurant, Palmero. Nutty with a hint of tart, it was a starter that aided the palette into receiving the nuance of flavors brought by the rest of our meal, including the perfect blend of Penne Alla Arrabiata. Senza Fine was flowing through the strings of the violinist when our night was made memorable by the Gelato Alla Menta. The mint chocolate ice cream was light, creating a balance with the almond brittle basket and chocolate syrup, as they melted together into a chewy chunk of sweetness. The sin did not begin in the last spoonful of ice cream for there was the black lechon during the Hawaiianthemed dinner buffet the day before. With different themes every night, the staff were the dancing stars of the show. The resort continues to welcome the creation of new facilities, including the dinerinspired restaurant, Route 66. Raffy, the guest activities coordinator, showed us around the newest addition to these amenities, such as the Game Room and Firing Range. At first, I considered the spa’s quaint qualities as the reason why it appeared independent from the rest of the resort; after all, it is manifest through the Zen-inspired architecture juxtaposed to the tropical British colonial architecture that Plantation Bay is known for. But truly, what makes it stand out from all the other outstanding elements of the resort, is the life carried within its own space, sustained by the spiritual energy of the nature it nurtures, and its people. And whether you are alone or with someone, when you are here, it is difficult not to feel whole.

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Opposite page: Plantation Bay’s popular lagoon as seen from various vantage points in the resort. This page: festive colors from the Asian dishes served at Fiji; laid-back dining at Kilimanjaro; a violinist translating sentiments into music at the Mediterranean-inspired restaurant, Palermo.

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DESTINATIONS

Geneva In step with timelessness

The city famous for its watchmaking industry, banking efficiency and Reformation legacy was among writer Willy Marbella and photographer Gabriel Dela Cruz’s essential Swiss stops.

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omething beautifully peculiar caught my attention right before we began our Geneva day tour. Our team just finished checking-in and got out of the elevator on the eighth floor to get to our rooms first, when a wallclock captivated my interest. It was an artistic piece, and looking at the open shaft, it goes all the way down to the ground floor. I have never seen a clock that huge and as creatively designed. But we had a full day ahead, which kept me from lingering on the clock’s craftsmanship. Anyway, I was certain I will have a bit more time with it after we got back. “Let me take you to the historic town of Carouge. It’s a very small town of only one square mile, with a little over 20,000 people,” said Shiva, our team’s guide, as she led us to the day’s first order of business. “[We will also pass by] the open market that happens every Wednesday and Saturdays. Here you can get local wines, fresh fruits, vegetables and flowers, all grown locally.” I found the market looking rather intimate. It’s not too big that I’ll get lost in it, but just right that one can get everything one needs for at least a week or until the next market day. “Local wine!” said our publisher-photographer Gabe, who also happens to be a wine enthusiast. “Good to know that they produce their own wines here in Carouge.” “Yes, we grow our own wine. This market is very popular that even people from the city center come here to shop.” After a perusal of the goods for sale, Shiva declares, “OK, now let’s go to some of the fountains that Blavignac was commissioned to do for the city.” We approached a two-tiered fountain, surrounded by a pool with flowers at the center-axis. In the middle tier, water continuously arches towards a seated man at the center, and at the bottom, it flows out from the bills of the black swans. I can imagine this to be progressive during its time. Instead of doing a monochromatic color scheme, that man and those black swans stand-out like a sore thumb from the whiteness of the marble, I thought. “If you will look at the label, you will find that it is either blue or red. If it’s red, it’s not potable, if it’s blue, then it’s OK to drink. Very important to remember,” Shiva explained.

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“From here, I’d like to show you to the traditional way, how people here live.” “Who is Blavignac?” asked our managing editor Aida. “Blavignac was a local renaissance man. Architect, historian, archeologist among others,” answered Shiva. Next, pointing to the more anesthesized looking structure on the other side, she said, “This is Eglise Sainte-Croix. This is a Catholic Church.” With Shiva leading the way, we entered the church. “From here, I’d like to show you to the traditional way, how people here live,” said Shiva as she led the way across the neighborhood. We next passed another fountain with an interesting structure that looks like a church tower, again in white, with a black-winged animal with water streaming out of

its beak, but doesn’t seem to be a swan. Getting closer, we finally saw a mythical animal with a swan’s body and neck, but with a dragon’s throat and head. Again, one of the four fountains by Blavignac. The art critic in me came out and I shared my thoughts: “This is a very unusual fountain. It is square, not the traditional circle. The tower, or what looks like a bell steeple, doesn’t occupy much of the pond area, and there are

From opposite: A sculpture installation for interaction; Carouge farmer’s market; inside the Eglise Sainte-Croix; Medus fountain; neo-classical buildings.

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only two spouts of water at opposite sides of the tower. Also, the black birds look disconcerting because they contrast too much with the white tower. Judging from the two fountains we’ve seen, Blavignac has an obsession with black creatures looking distinct against its white background. Not very common to see. But his creatures, mythical or realistic, are always elegant.” “So, follow me in here and take a look at the courtyard and how the houses are connected by corridors,” Shiva bade us to preceed. “It’s very peaceful in here,” observed our managing editor. The layout was like an amphitheater where everything was at the sides, with the center empty, creating an indoor courtyard. There were a few people sitting inside one of the shaded areas, indicating that this was a functioning community despite its age. “Here in Geneva, we are renters. Almost all houses are owned by wealthy people and they have the houses [leased],” Shiva explained. After a few more explanations about the life of locals, our entourage chanced upon a store which sells artsy wallclocks. “Let’s take a look inside, this is Geneva after all,” I persuaded our group. As the group looks around, I noticed one piece in particular, “Wait a minute, that looks like a small version of the clock in the hotel.” Then Shiva pointed to a picture, “Look, it is indeed a small version of the one in your hotel! You know, there is a reason how watchmaking became the number one industry in Switzerland. When Calvinism was at its height in the late 16th century, people were prevented from wearing jewelry. However, because watches were the only ones permitted for

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Clockwise from this page to opposite: Wall clock art pieces; fountain commemorating L’escalade; symbolic monument of Geneva joining Confederation of Helvetia; old town of Carouge; fountain designed by Blavignac; inside a store of wall clocks.

its practical use, the Swiss watchmakers decided to make them as beautiful and as ornate as possible. However, it was only in the mid-17th century when accuracy became a concern. Since then, Swiss watchmaking has become world renowned.” And just as we were processing that new revelation, Shiva reminded us to be up and about for our next stop, “Come let’s start walking to the lake for lunch. We’re going on a cruise!” We made our way through town, crossing a major boulevard. Just before getting to the lake, we stopped in front of a statue of two women, elegantly dressed, armin-arm at the waist. “You see, Switzerland is [a] confederation of what are called cantons,” Shiva said as she pointed to the elegant monument of two women. “The original or Latin name of Switzerland is really Helvetia, and Geneva is one of the cantons... This monument symbolizes the unification of Geneva with the Confederation of Switzerland or technically the Confoederatio Helvetica.



They are looking together towards Switzerland.” “That’s new to us,” commented our managing editor. “There’s still time. Let’s walk around the park while waiting for the boat to start loading,” Shiva told us next. We then come across two more fountains, the Fontaine des Quatre-Saisons and the famous Jet d’Eau. The first one is an allegorical interpretation of Europe’s four season, while the latter had a more pragmatic function. Pointing to the round fountain, Shiva explained, “Here we have an elegant fountain completed in 1869 and it is said that they were trying

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“During those times, benches were used as counters. Merchants would do their business in what is called a banc. And so, it eventually evolved into the word ‘bank.’”

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to copy the fountains of Paris.” Pointing to the Jet E’eau, she said, “Over there is the famous Jet d’Eau, also known as the pencil fountain. Looks very modern but it was actually done in 1886. It was really meant to control and release excess pressure form the hydraulic plants. It has become an accidental symbol of Geneva and a tourist attraction as well. Anyway, let’s head to the boat before we get left behind and you’ll get a better view of it.” As we settled in the boat for lunch, Shiva told us about the lake and the different structures around it. Shiva pointed to a gothic-looking structure: “You see, that structure with all the steeples, that’s the Mausoleum of Brunswick.” She proceeds to tell us about that man’s life, about how he got estranged from his family, never had a family of his own, made it on his own, and how he left everything to Geneva but on the condition that he be built a “monument.” Thus, the mausoleum. As the breeze cooled down the cabin, we feasted on lunch prepared by a Michelin-starred chef. Shiva continued to point out the structures along the river. The Red Cross building, then the United Nations building. She told us about how expensive and exclusive the houses were that look out to the lake. Back on dry land after two hours, we continued our tour of the old town. First stop was a watch tower, the Place Molard. It’s an old port that opened to Lake Geneva. The waters of Lake Geneva used to come up all the way to this tower. Now, it is an open square with only the medieval tower left to guard the restaurants and the shopping area around it. The tower itself is decorated with the coat of arms of major

personalities during the Reformation, and at night, the cobblestoned walk along the square lights up with the word “welcome” in different languages. It was a short walk from the watchtower to the Paroisse de SaintPierre-Frusterie or Cathedral of St. Peter. This Church has an interesting history because it was built Catholic, but was transformed into a Reformed Protestant church during the time of Calvin. In fact, his chair is part of the church’s collection. “When you enter you will find that church is very stark in keeping with Calvin’s motto of simplicity. Remember, he was protesting against the ostentatious display of wealth by the Catholic Church,” Shiva said. “You will see the stark walls of the Church just as Calvin would have wanted it. But to its side, there is an ornately decorated chapel that Genevans redecorated. Done in Gothic fashion, it’s a church unto itself. It has a pulpit, stained glass windows, even its own pipe organ. Even its ceilings are lavishly painted. When you come out again, you will then see the difference in the decorations. Don’t miss the chair of Calvin.”

Clockwise from opposite: sailing in a steam boat for lunch; steam boat’s interiors; the famous Jet d’Eau; St. Pierre Cathedral; a side of the cathedral; Reformation Wall; mosaic and cannons in the Old Arsenal; Lake Geneva’s swimming area.

Once inside, we indeed saw the difference between how the Genevans lavishly decorated the chapel, and how plain the Reformists’ area was. After viewing the interior of the church, Shiva took us to another well-known landmark of Geneva: the Reformation Wall. Then, ever so quickly, we arrived at the university grounds. “We are entering the University of Geneva. This university was founded by Calvin himself,” Shiva said. Apparently, the reliefs were done to commemorate Calvin’s 400th birth anniversary and the 350th anniversary of the university. One hundred meters long, its foundation was built into the old city wall. The focal point of this monument are four 5 meter-high reliefs of William Farel, John Calvin himself, Theodore Beza and John Knox, who are the main proponents of the Reformation. The whole wall is dominated by the words, “Post Tenebras, Lux,” which means “After Darkness, Light.” After seeing and hearing all about Calvin’s reformation, Shiva led us across an open-air building, the Old Arsenal. “Wow look, mosaics!” I exclaimed, since I always found mosaics fascinating. Totally ignoring the canons on display, I asked about the three mosaic murals. Shiva dutifully answered, “The first one is the arrival of Julius Caesar in Geneva. The second one is a market scene in the Middle Ages, and the third one is the persecution of the Huguenots during the Reformation.” “Do you know [that] the word bank comes from banc?” Shiva asked while pointing to the second mural. “During those times, benches were used as counters. Merchants would do their business in what is called a banc. And so, it eventually evolved into the word ‘bank.’” That sent our group into a collective “oh.” “The banking system of Switzerland harks back to the 18th century, when wealthy Europeans brought their money to Geneva to avoid the Protestant banking system,” Shiva explained. Again, the Reformation was at the helm of how and why the Swiss banking system has become one of the most secured banking systems in the world. With that all cleared up, the tour reached its end. We were ecstatic and grateful for Shiva’s wealth of knowledge, plus her wit the entire time. Getting back into the hotel, as we headed back to our rooms, I happened to pass by the clock again. “This wallclock is really a work of art,” I said, finally understanding too how Switzerland became number one when it comes to timepieces. With that in mind, we made preparations for the day’s last activity, dinner, which we cannot be late for. We’re still in Geneva, after all.

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Matterhorn

A spiritual Swiss journey During their ascent to an iconic part of the Swiss Alps, our writer Wilfred Marbella and photographer Gabriel Dela Cruz reached an all-time soulful high.

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cannot pinpoint when I first read about Matterhorn and its snowcapped mountains. All I can remember was that it was a celebrated mountain and that it is probably the most popular peak in that part of the Swiss Alps. To get to Zermatt, the jump off point to reach Matterhorn, we had to take a train ride for a little more than two hours from Geneva to Visp, and transfer to the train that goes all the way to Zermatt. Apparently, Visp is the district where Zermatt belongs to. But the two hours go by quickly because of the beautiful countryside view of Switzerland.

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Unfortunately, some of the images will have to be committed to memory because the train was going so fast that my hand was not ready for a snap all the time when the beautiful locations appear. Going back to my attempts, there were quaint villages in valleys; terraced orchards at the side of stonehouses; totally charming mountains; then a part of Lake Geneva, also known as Grand Lac would make an appearance too; but the two castles on two different occasions were absolutely magical. These really should be in maps and travel guides of the train, in case people are interested to explore these areas. As we head to Visp, Swiss punctuality can never be faulted. If transportation says it leaves or arrives at 10:18, that’s 10:18. It is so efficient that we were able to plan our trip by the minute. Form Visp to Zermatt was another hour of train ride. But this time around, the terrain was different. After a few minutes leaving Visp, we were suddenly in the middle of the mountains and before long, rivers started to appear. It was totally bucolic and Beethoven’s Pastoral (the 6th Symphony) started playing in my head; interesting how music can encapsulate images in sound.

Clockwise from opposite: view from Monte Rosa Hotel’s balcony shows Mauritius Church; Zermatt coat of arms; Swiss Alps restaurants; mountain goats paraded; traditional house at the old town; marker for Ulrich Inderbinen; carriages fetch guests from train station.

Zipping past Zermatt Arriving in Zermatt, there was a quick change in temperature. Even in the middle of summer, there was a certain nippiness. Simona, from the Zermatt Tourism Board came to greet us with the hotel representative. He gathered our lauggages and hauled them of in a vehicle I have never seen before (all the other vehicles look the same way). A little questioning revealed that it is an electric car. They maybe up the mountains, but they have certainly kept abreast, if not more advance; research says that they’ve had electric cars since the 1940s. As we made our way through the crowd, we sat in a restaurant along the street, and just as we were perusing the menu, a horse-drawn carriage suddenly turned up. What made it more attractive even from afar were the bells on the horses. I literally heard them first before

I saw them. As it drew near, I was half-expecting Santa Claus or an elf pulling on the reins. But alas, it was only a gentleman in a suit. Who knew we landed in a formal Christmas Village. After a lunch of veal sausage and potatoes, which was really tasty, Simona took us on a little tour of Zermatt. Apparently, where we were was the center of town. In fact, that street full of people was the one and only main street. As we walked to a narrower street opposite the restaurant, the crowd suddenly disappeared. And all of a sudden, we were in the Hinter Dorf or the old village area, surrounded by wood houses with what looked to me like shale roofs. I actually noticed them on the houses in our train ride from Visp and I kept thinking to myself, “Why is it that the shales don’t slide down?” It is a piece of rock after all, and when rained on, can be slippery. The old village was absolutely charming because I felt the history and authenticity of the place. These buildings were used, not only as places of residences during the early times, but also as work and storage areas where farmers keep their dried meats, grains and tools. There were a number of houses that have been turned into art galleries. Simona had a trick question for our group. Pointing to the disks that were placed around the stilts of the houses, she asked, “What do you think these are for?”

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Coming from the Philippines where a similar practice is done by our countrymen in the Cordilleras, I answered, “To keep the mice and rodents out. When they climb, they fall off once they invert themselves when they get to the disk.” She was quite surprised I knew the answer. It only proved to me that people can think in parallel ways, no matter one’s location. As we rounded the corner, we came upon a church with a conical roof, very much like the roofs we have seen all through the different countries we have traveled in Europe. It reminded me of Paris as he tries to rival Romeo for the love of Juliet. And our hotel was at the very corner. Hotel Monte Rosa couldn’t have been more perfect. It was the very first hotel in Zermatt and is named after the highest peak in the Alps’ terrain. It is a boutique hotel which has been upgraded to 21st century standards and has some of the most quaint appointments of a fine luxury hotel. The most amazing feature of my suite is my step-out balcony. As I opened the French doors, a whiff of cool Alpine air rushed in, and when I stepped out, lo and behold, Pfarrkirche St. and Mauritius Church were just to my left. It was like time travel to the medieval age. And to make the scenario more perfect, mountain goats, complete with shepherd children, maybe pre-teens, all in the same outfit, were making their way through the only main road in Zermatt. If I didn’t know any better, I would say there was a play going on and we didn’t even know we were in it. Apparently, this was a daily occurrence, because the next day, at exactly the same time, these mountain goats were back and they again were being herded, but by older men. All these may sound unbelievable, because I myself couldn’t believe what I was seeing and hearing.

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Clockwise from opposite: traditional meal of sausage and potatoes; power breakfast of eggs, potato and bacon; the Matterhorn; artist Matthew Fletcher; rows of food shops; Hotel Monte Rosa’s Victorian-style room; Edward’s Bar.

Matterhorn, the magnificent The day started out foggy. We got out of the hotel and walked to the train station, making sure we did not forget our umbrellas. The constant drizzle in the afternoon the day before served as a warning for the day’s weather. Finally finding the train station, we jumped in it for the ride to Gornergrat. According to Simona, this is where the best view of Matterhorn can be seen. For half an hour, we watched as the train lurched its way up the mountain; it’s a 30-degree incline up the mountains. It was so foggy, there were instances when visibility was reduced to zero. After a few hours, we finally reached Gornergrat and the reward was phenomenal. Right before our very eyes was Matterhorn. To behold it right before me was short of a spiritual experience. There it was, the triangular peak, playing hide and seek as the clouds passed through, covering, unveiling, exposing, obscuring and unveiling the sight again. People were in all sorts of stance trying to get the best angle, the clearest shot, the perfect image of this iconic mountain. And yes, I was on the look out for the perfect Toblerone shot. I must say, Simona had our interests piqued when she slyly inserted in our conversation the day before, “This is where you get the Toblerone shot!” But a simple online research debunks that Matterhorn was the inspiration for the shape of the candy. No matter what, I was still in awe of its magnificence. Indeed, nature can put you in place and I suddenly realized that I was puny compared to the majesty of these mountains.

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After a few more rounds of Gogh’s inspiration. His name is Matthew Fletcher and he is from the United Kingdom. selfies and photography, we decided to Googling his name, he has been sighted in boloji.com, Trip Advisor and even Nat Geo trek to the structure that we can see up Traveler. It’s always a joy to randomly encounter kindred spirits in the arts. from where we were. It was a slow ascent with the aid of metal railings but when Descended yet still dazzled we got up to the top, we were rewarded After Gornergrat, we made our way to Klein Matterhorn, or Glacier Paradise as per by the sight of a cute little chapel sitting Simona’s suggestion. After a few transfers from the train to a series of cable car rides, on a plateau. It was the Bernhard von we finally reached the last cable car, and we were brought up, literally brushing the Aost chapel. I entered the chapel to give mountain side, to the Klein Matterhorn. Once we stepped-out, it was a different feeling thanks for this rare opportunity all of a sudden. Of course, we felt the rush of cold air, but there was something Nature can disconcerting about the place. While following the people inside the cave that was given to me, and in deep reflection, I was trying to put you in pathway, our managing editor was already not looking too stable. We finally feel the presence of the divine. get to the restaurant, and as I, together with our photographer were lining place and up for food, all of us were feeling perturbed to say the least. Then we finally I always find it intriguing when people say they feel closer I suddenly realized it was due to altitude sickness. I almost laughed out loud because I to God when amidst nature, imagine a native of the tropics suddenly brought up to more than 3,800 realized that can’t especially when one is up a feet above sea level. From the balmy beaches of the Philippines to the snowI was puny covered mountains of the Alps, how do you explain that to my system? After mountain; well, the cool breeze and the calmness of the place compared to realizing that we were all being deprived of oxygen, we just wanted to finish may have something to do with lunch and hurry back to the first stop of the cable car. Even the first stop was the majesty enough to bring us back to a more stable sense. such, but yes, call me oxygendeprived, there was indeed a It was amazing that, with a few transfers in the cable car, we were of these certain sense of peace inside able to make our way down to the city, and after a few inquiries and a fair mountains. amount of walking, we were back in our hotel. But this was not before we that chapel. On the way down, there was passed by a graveyard with natural-looking tombstones. Apparently, this is a graveyard suddenly this guy who appeared from of the “Unknown Climber.” More than 500 deaths have been recorded since people nowhere and was selling his artworks of have started climbing Matterhorn, and sadly, not everyone is able to make it back down. the famous peak. Laid out on the guide The memorial was established by a guide, Harry Lauber in 2015, to mark the 150th rails are his prints of Matterhorn that anniversary of the first ascent to Matterhorn. actually reminded me of Van Gogh, not Now, back on lower ground, I realize that my Matterhorn assignment is one because they looked like the strokes of that will make a lasting mark in my life. God’s majestly is truly boundless, and to create the Dutch master, but because they looked memories for ourselves while extoling Him is the least we can do for ourselves and the like Japanese wood prints that were Van people we affect. In the art community, there is a saying, “Nature is the ultimate artist.” I just saw the ultimate artwork.

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Clockwise from opposite: reflecting pond from Riffleberg; Matterhorn’s mountain villages; the Klein Matterhorn - 365 days of skiing.

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Camino de Santiago The way across Galicia

Our resident trail-enthusiast, writer-photographer Zean Villongco, had a glimpse of what could be one of the most spiritual paths any traveler could ever take – Spain’s “the Way of St. James.”

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Opposite: a statue of St. James the Greater. This page: pilgrims reach their destination at the Cathedral of St. James in Santiago de Compostela.

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Cape Finisterre. In Latin, its name means “land’s end,” as ancient Roman lore held that this sliver of headland along the Costa da Morte (Coast of Death) of Galicia in northwestern Spain was the endmost point of the world. For some travelers who come to Galicia to tread the Camino de Santiago, the Way of St. James, this place likewise signifies the very end of their journey. Throughout the lighthouse grounds of the promontory, travelers swarmed to take in the view of the Atlantic Ocean and of the beautiful and rugged surrounding coastline, whereas I took stock of the past several days during which I toured, upon the gracious accommodation of the Spanish Tourism Office, the numerous points of interest along the Camino. Though I did not exactly undertake the Camino as its pilgrimage tradition prescribes, my journey through the landscape, history and culture of Galicia, a land which I find suffused with so much provincial and almost mythical splendor, has been every moment stirring and profound. The pilgrims’ way The mere thought of Galicia is inextricably tied to the Camino de Santiago, for it is in Galicia’s capital, Santiago de Compostela, that the ancient pilgrimage finds its culmination. Peregrinos (pilgrims), be they pious believers or nonreligious adventurers, set off on foot or on bike from various points within Galicia, or from much farther places across Spain and even from beyond the country’s borders, to make their way to

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the Cathedral of St. James, guided by painted arrows and road signs marked with a scallop symbol. Our guide, Paloma, explained the many symbolisms and etymologies surrounding the Camino and recounted stories that shaped the pilgrimage’s tradition – narratives that all point to the life of St. James the Greater, Christ’s apostle who preached in the Iberian Peninsula, and who traveled back to Judea only to be beheaded by Herod of Agrippa. The saint have long since been the patron saint of pilgrims and of Spain itself. Paloma narrated that when the body of St. James was transported from Judea to Galicia aboard a rudderless and sail-less ship steered by angels, there was a wedding being celebrated along the shore. The groom, riding on his steed, approached the waters to see what the ship was. Then the horse, suddenly startled, ran straight into the sea where the waves swallowed both animal and its master. But through some miracle, both groom and his steed eventually emerged from the waters, alive and covered in scallop shells. Thus has the scallop been the enduring symbol of the

From opposite, clockwise: inside the Cathedral of St. James; inside the Parador-Hostal Dos Reis Catlicos; at the streets of the Old Town of Santiago de Compostela; Church of Santa Mara de Melide; Church of Santa Maria de O Cebreiro; ancient cross market at O Cebreiro; minstrels at Praza do Obradoiro; berry dessert at Casa Marcelo; scallops also from the Casa; Spanish paella; crispy fried sea bass still from Casa Marcelo.

Camino, a token which pilgrims carry home to signify that they have dutifully accomplished their sacred intentions. These days, the scallop token takes the form of the compostela, a signed certificate issued by the Pilgrim Office. To qualify for the compostela, a pilgrim must have completed the last 100 kilometers to Santiago de Compostela on foot or 200 kilometers on bike, and must also present his or her credencial or Pilgrim Record, a sort of passport which is stamped at the beginning of the pilgrimage and daily at churches, albergues (hostels), town halls, tourist offices, hotels, bars, shops, petrol stations, and other establishments along the way. Moreover, a pilgrim must declare a spiritual reason, or at the very least an attitude of search, in doing the pilgrimage. In the village of Portomarin, I talked to a 60-something retired banker, coincidentally named Jaimé, who has done the Camino several times. His pilgrimages, as he divulged, were never a matter of spirituality or soul-searching; he did them just because he immensely enjoys hiking. But throughout all his

pilgrimages, he has grown to connect with himself more, and perhaps as well with the world around him. I realize then that though the journey along the Camino holds different meanings for different people, it is ultimately a journey within oneself. Treasures of the past Undertaken by kings and commoners, by the devout and the non-believers, the Camino de Santiago, through the ages, has served as more than just a path to religious salvation or spiritual transcendence; it has also played a key role in cultural exchange and sociopolitical development during the later Middle Ages, as the spiritual and physical needs of pilgrims traveling to Santiago de Compostela were met by the flourishing of churches, hospitals, monasteries, settlements and other important infrastructure along the route. This influence in the local architecture and art was especially strong and long-lasting in northwestern Spain, as manifested in the extraordinary ensemble of distinguished and well-preserved preChristian and Middle Age edifices found throughout the route to Santiago de Compostela. Such has been the cultural and historical value of the Camino de Santiago that several of its routes were enlisted as UNESCO World Heritage sites. At the mountain village of O Cebreiro, lying at the far eastern border of Galicia and along the French route of the Camino, traditional houses of pre-Roman origin called pallozas, still stand. Built with granite or

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This page, from top clockwise: along the route of the Camino de Santiago; another view of the route; walls of the cloisters in the Benedictine Monastery of St. Julian in Samos; the port village; razor clams; still inside the Benedictine monastery; Restaurante Roma in Sarria; a traditional house in O Cebreiro. Opposite page, from top clockwise: natural beauty of a Galician waterfall; church of Nosa Senora da Barca; tourists enjoying the view at Cape Finisterre; ancient bridge at Negreira; your back ailments may just be cured if you walk underneath this; another sublime view at Cape Finisterre.

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slate walls and a thatched roof, these circular or oval-shaped houses, which are found only in this region, are distinct examples of Celtic influences in Galicia and give visitors a very unique insight into the lives of local residents living many centuries ago. On our way back to Santiago from O Cebreiro, we passed by the Benedictine Monastery of St. Julian in Samos, a massive structure and magnificent destination in its own right. The entire place is a compendium of various architectural styles, combining Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque. At the second floor, large murals depicting the life of St. Benedict lined the walls of the vaulted cloisters. It was quiet when we toured the monastery, and the dearth of people gave the place a somberly impressive air. The highlight of our tour was the Cathedral of St. James and the surrounding old town of Santiago de Compostela. Enshrining the remains of St. James, the cathedral was built overtime like a Russian heirloom doll, with the outermost structure built over layers of pre-existing churches that were built over one another. The cathedral combines various architectural styles, including Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, Plateresque and Neoclassical. Following the arrival of St. James’ remains to Galicia aboard a divinely enchanted ship, the saint’s tomb was said to have been abandoned in the 3rd century during the Roman persecution of Christians. Centuries later, the tomb was rediscovered by the hermit Pelagius, and it was on the site that the first structure of the church was built. At the Praza do Obradoiro, the main square fronting the cathedral’s main façade, crowds of tourists littered about as pleasant music from a Galician bagpipe (gaita) rang all throughout. Among the bustle, peregrinos, laid down their loaded backpacks and bikes to relish and contemplate the completion of their long, wearying travel. I can only imagine the elation that pilgrims must feel when they finally see from a distance the spires of the cathedral, and much more their

Peregrinos, be they pious believers or nonreligious adventurers, set off on foot or on bike, guided by painted arrows and road signs marked with a scallop symbol.

wonderment when they stand at the Pórtico da Gloria (Portico of Glory), the cathedral’s architectural and artistic centerpiece. Produced by the medieval sculptor Master Mateo, the Pórtico da Gloria is a stunning entranceway featuring columns adorned with statues of the Apostles and of Old Testament prophets, and arches intricately carved with a resplendent tableau of biblical figures, with Jesus Christ and St. James as the central images. The masterpiece is an iconographic representation of various symbols derivedfrom the Revelations and the Old Testament, signifying the worldly travails and the heavenly rewards of a pilgrim’s journey.

Living heritage I saw an opulence of history and tradition that brims across the rural landscape and within the old town quarters of Santiago de Compostela. The old world charm of narrow stone-laid streets, the majesty of medieval church spires rising up to the heavens, the bellows of a bagpipe ringing throughout the town square, the affluent cuisine made from the fruits of the land and of its seas and coasts – all entrapped me into a binding fascination. Atop Mount Gaiás, just a few minutes drive from Santiago de Compostela’s city center, sits the Galicia City of Culture (Cidade da Cultura de Galicia). As marvelous as the Cathedral of St. James is in all its medieval grandeur, so too is Galicia’s new cultural center in its modernism. Designed by architect Peter Eisenman, the flowingly shaped buildings of this vibrant complex were constructed in a contoured fashion so that they integrate into the rolling hillside. Consisting of museums, libraries, archives and auditoriums devoted to the preservation of

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Galician heritage and promotion of international arts, the Galicia City of Culture was envisioned to be a “beacon for pilgrims of knowledge,” in the same way that a monastic abbey fulfilled the same function in medieval history. Touched by God With the enchantment of its landscape and with its legendary traditions, Galicia, for me, has taken on an almost mystical presence. On our way to Finisterre, Paloma took out a map to show me how Galicia’s western coastlines comprising the Costa da Morte was marked by a series of long coastal inlets (rias) which stretched inland like spindly fingers and ramified into thin lines of rivers and streams. She told me that people believed these rias were the imprints of God when he laid his hands on Galicia. Galicia, she shared, is also known as “the land of a thousand rivers.” As we stopped by a small port town called Ézaro to view one of Galicia’s scenic waterfalls, she recounted how, in her childhood, she would swim in the streams and rivers of this very place, her hometown. From Cape Finisterre, we proceeded to the coastal village of Muxía, the last of our visits outside Santiago de Compostela. Here, right by the ocean, stood the chapel of Nosa Señora da Barca (Our Lady of the Boat), built on what was believed to be a sacred place of cult worship in ancient pagan times. I walked on the rocky shores in front of the chapel and looked upon the curious stone formations called pedras de abalar (oscillating stones), large boulders balanced on a point and can be easily moved back and forth, and which were used in olden times to determine the guilt or innocence of those accused. It is here in Muxía, where some pilgrims of the Camino de Santiago decide to end their pilgrimage, and I thought that here, where the land ends into the ocean, was indeed a most fitting close to a long journey.

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From opposite, clockwise: at the roof of the Cathedral of St. James; Prazo do Obradoiro in front of the main facade of the Cathedral of St. James; another view of the Cathedral’s roof; inside the Cathedral; pilgrims can’t help but look up at the Cathedral’s awe-inspiring interiors; still at the roof of the beloved saint’s Cathedral.

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Vienna Seeing through the eyes of royals One thing that writer Wilfred Marbella with photographer Gabriel Dela Cruz realized in the Austrian capital was how privileged even the commoners are, equally immersed in the arts just as their rulers.

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Upper Belvedere Palace

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tanding in the middle of the Maria Therese Platz, I was trying to imagine the elegant times of the Habsburgs. We are all familiar with the Windsors of the United Kingdom, the Louises of France, maybe even the Romanovs of Russia, but have you ever heard of the Habsburgs (Hapsburgs in English) of Austria? They once ruled one of the largest empire in Europe for 300 years and I was standing in their elegant square. At the center is the image of the Maria Therese, who was the last Habsburg, and the only woman to rule this empire close to 40 years. Her father, Charles Vl issued the Pragmatic Sanction, one that she’s holding in her hands, allowing her to succeed in his throne because he had no male heir. Despite the flourishing of Austria during her reign, Maria Therese was somehow connected to the collapse of the French empire; she was the mother of the infamous queen, Marie Antoinette. But the French revolution did not stop the expansion of the Austrian empire. In fact, they even went to attach Hungary, thus the Austro-Hungarian Empire. This square was very elegant as befitting Maria Therese’s stature. At the bottom of her pillar, on horse-back were her generals, while the ones standing include her doctor; the chancellor of state-what we may call the prime minister; director of

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Clockwise from opposite: Schonbrunn Palace; Museum of Military History; cannons outside the museum; World War II memorabilia; statues of kings and emperors of Vienna inside the military museum; carriage on the Palace grounds; garden between Upper and Lower Belvedere; the Maria Therese Platz; the Hofburg.

artillery or mister of defense; and the one who reformed the economy, or the economic manager.” Two buildings flanked her square, the Museum of Natural History to the right, where you will find species from nature, even dinosaur bones, and archeological finds. And the Art History Museum to the left. During Advent they have a Christmas Market here where beautiful kiosks that sell traditional Viennese and Christmas items can be found. Schnitzel anyone? From across the street is the Hofburg. It was the former imperial winter residence of the Habsburgs and is now the official residence and work place of Austria’s president. It’s first buildings were erected in the 13th century and the addition went on ‘til the 19-20th century. In fact, what can be seen from the open plaza, the semi-circular building, is part of the latest addition. In front of it is the statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy defeated the Turks, he has a more stationary stance; and on the other side is Archduke Charles of Teschen, who defeated Napoleon, is in a more active motion. Francis l of Austria said he was, “the only general who can defeat the French.” Interestingly enough, the statue of the Archduke Charles is reminiscent of the painting by JacquesLouise David “Napoleon crossing the Alps,” the very person he defeated. The only difference is the Archduke has a flag in his hands, Napoleon does not. Behind all these palatial structures, Maria Therese held grand celebrations. Music by Haydn, Paganini, Liszt, and of course Mozart were all played here by the composers themselves. Even Beethoven’s 8th Symphony was premiered here. In later years, Johann Straus II waltzes brought fun and joy to its residents. If there is a winter palace, a few kilometers away is the summer palace, or the famous Schonbrunn Palace. This is the place where Fanz Joseph I, who ruled Austria for more than 60 years, lived. He was married to the legendary beauty Elisabeth or Sissi, who in turn was assassinated in Geneva. They were its last occupants.

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Considered of Neo-Renaissance architecture, the Vienna State Opera House sits at Ringstraße, or Ringstrasse, the prestigious center of Vienna, it is a structure that cannot be missed. As we waddled along grounds of the Vienna State Opera House, whom do we meet? Well, it’s Mozart of course! Didn’t realize he is almost 6’ tall and wore glasses! And guess what, he was selling us tickets for his concert together with Strauss. As he cajoled, and we played coy, we thought, “We’re not exactly dressed for the occasion.” We decided to settle for a tour of the opera house instead. Arguably the most prestigious opera house in the world, with La Scala of Milan probably as its only rival, the Vienna State Opera House status is unparalleled. Taken to its back stage, it was such a privilege to learn about its “innards” that is seldom seen. We also find out that the they only mount operas and ballets, nothing more. So philharmonic performances and all other performances are done elsewhere like The name Schönbrunn means beautiful spring and was a gift by Charles the Vl and his wife, Elisabeth Christine of Brunswick (not to be confused with Sissy) to Maria Theresa during her wedding. It really was Maria Therese who brought it to what it is today. It is so massive that the exact number of rooms cannot be determined. It is said that it has between 1250 to 1440 rooms. That striking yellow color outside has been dubbed Maria Theresa Yellow, very appropriate for spring and summer. Vienna, one of the most elegant cities in Austria if not in Europe, is not in short supply of palaces. Approximately 7 kilometers away from Schonbrunn is the Belvedere Palace. Owned by Prince Eugene of Savoy, the one on stationary horse-back pose in front of the Hofburg, it is actually composed of two palaces. We started with the Upper Belvedere that had this big open front with a circular fountain. Lo and behold, inside this palace is one of the five versions of the Napoleon painting of him crossing the Alps! I wonder if the Archduke Charles knew about this and how would he have felt about it. The Upper Belvedere maybe a palace, but for some reason, unlike the Schonbrunn and the Hofburg, this has a more homey feel to it. I think it’s because the segmented roofs, thus giving it a more scaled down look than the two other palaces. Nevertheless, I’m still trying to wrap my head around the kind of lifestyle they had thinking I live in an 85 square meter studio. Be that as it may, when we turned to its side, there was this massive garden. It was so massive, we all felt daunted by its size so we stayed where we were. Little did I realize that, what I thought was a house outside the entire garden, WAS the second palace - the Lower Belvedere! Punctuated by mythical animal sculptures and trees perfectly trimmed like cones, one needs a hat, or an umbrella if one wants to venture in the middle of the garden or walk to the Lower Belvedere in the summer heat. You most probably will be sweating buckets by the time you get there.

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Clockwise to opposite: elegant buildings in the middle of Vienna; side entrance of the Vienna State Opera House; the grand interiors of the Opera House; cafes at the old town; bruschetta in Vienna streets.

the Wiener Musikverein, Wiener Konzerthaus, and the MuTh or Music und Theater where another Viennese institution holds court, the Vienna Boys Choir. We were then taken to the private box of Franz Joseph, whom we were told hates opera; and his wife Sissi. Goose bumps all over. To observe all the entire opera house from where we were, it was utterly a dream come true. But it was tempered by the image of Franz Joseph making a “French exit,” as the opera rages on, and once the lights open, he’s nowhere to be found. We then head for the Tea Room. This is where the imperial couple entertain guests during the intermissions. The beautiful golden silk embroidered wall panels even has his personal monogram. On the ceiling is an allegorical painting of music. After WW II they had to rebuild this Opera House. Fortunately enough, the Tea Room was one of the areas that survived the war. Aside from operas and ballets, the Vienna State Opera House is also known for one more prestigious event: the Vienna Opera Ball. One hundred fifty couples descend on the Opera House to dance to the waltz. It started in 1935, but legend has its genesis in 1814 when ambassadors from all over Europe had a meeting and chaired by an Austrian statesman Klemens von

Metternich. They celebrated it with dance, but outside the opera house. Through its many birth pains, the prestige of attending the Vienna Opera Ball can surpass any Oscar night, or the Venice Masquerade. But despite all these prestigious events and activities, the Viennese’s love for art and culture is unparalleled, that’s why prices for the Opera House has always been egalitarian. And to prove this, they have a standing room only area for those who cannot afford the expensive tickets but still want to experience an opera or a ballet. Franz Joseph is quoted as saying, “Our delight for music, and all other forms of art are just equal to those of our citizen.” After all these art and culture, one gets hungry of some pedestrian eats. Off to find some bruschetta!

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Budapest

a sight for superlatives

Europe at its finest and grandest – this may just be the phrase that can capture the experience of writer Willy Marbella and photographer Gabriel Dela Cruz in the beautiful capital of Hungary.

The Parliament Building

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yes, I had my 50+ birthday celebration in what’s known as the “best café in the world,” the New York Café of Budapest! Indeed, it’s generally considered to be number one, but that’s getting ahead of my story. Budapest’s long history started even before the first Common Era. It’s cited as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, ranked as “the world’s second best city” by Condé Nast Traveler, and has been hailed as “Europe’s 7th most idyllic place to live” by Forbes.” So, who’s afraid of Budapest? But just like Edward Albee’s play of a distressed couple, Budapest is actually composed of two cities, Buda and Pest, separated by the Danube River. From the Celts, to the Ottomans, to the Hapsburgs, tumultuous is a mild word to describe this city’s history and legacy. Still it has managed to figuratively waltz to Johann Strauss II “Blue Danube”.

Pest, the heart of the city

Pest can be considered the beating heart of Budapest. This is where one enters the city. The train station starts and ends here, the airport is here, and the hotels and commercial hub can be found here. Considered one of the most beautiful buildings in Europe, the Parliament here is at its riverbanks. Done in the Gothic revival style, it is perfectly symmetrical with a center dome that anchors the whole structure. It was built in the 1880s to show the sovereignty of the country that was united seven years earlier. A statue of Gyula Andrassy, the first Prime Minister of the “Dual Monarchy

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of the Austria-Hungary Empire,” stands proudly at the building’s left side, facing the Danube river. In his memory, they named one of the major boulevard, Andrassy Avenue where the most elegant buildings of Budapest are located. From the Danube, you can see the majestic spires of the Parliament, looking like spears held up by soldiers waiting to defend their king. A few meters away from the Parliament is a most curious installation of bronze shoes permanently attached to the river banks of the Danube. Conceived by film director Can Togay, and executed by artist Gyula Pauer, it is a poignant memoriam for the Jews who were asked to remove their shoes then shot by the Nazis along the banks, for them to fall straight into the river. A few blocks to the back of the Parliament is the majestic St. Stephen Basilica. This is the standard by which all buildings in Budapest are measured; that means no building can be taller than this basilica. This is why the parliament building is exactly the same height as this structure. Named after St. Stephen, the first King of Hungary, it is said to house his incorruptible right hand inside a reliquary. Neo-classic in style, it has Romanesque double pillars inside with a more horizontal orientation than a vertical one, which stands for the more common way. Its center dome has iconic Bible figures with God at the center and a string of cherubs surrounding Him. What I find curious is an art deco-inspired statue of St. Rita, patron saint of abused victims holding a crown of thorns. Of course, as a former worker in the art world, I was more drawn to its rendition, which totally contrasted with the entire church despite its spiritual significance. Be that as it may, it was still a statue to behold. Outside the Basilica, the square was just as beautiful to explore. Using marble of different colors such as old rose, periwinkle and oatmeal, combined with textured cobble stones, circular patterns reminiscent of the Vetruvian scroll dominate the entire area. I felt like walking on a bespoke carpet inside a palace. Around this square are restaurants,

Clockwise from opposite: the Danube River; installation in memory of those who died in the war; St. Stephen’s Basilica; the church’s interiors; Szent Rokus-Kaponla church; Budapest streets featuring another church and a classical building.

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gelato stands and places of interest that will keep you pausing here and there. Then there is Elizabeth Square, just a stone’s throw away from St. Stephen’s Basilica. It’s an open promenade with a big water “pond” and an underground eating area. It was full the time we walked by with three teenagers walking inside the “pond,” with their pants folded up as they held their shoes. Everyone was trying to escape the summer heat by catching the cool breeze the open area brings. There was also music pouring out of the basement food court. I can imagine how empty the place will be once the cold season sets in. From Elizabeth Square (or as the locals call it, Erzsebt Square) one can walk up to Andrassy Avenue and end up at the Heroes Square. Andrassy Avenue is their own version of Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue where the most elegant buildings of the city are located. This is where the State Opera House, the House of Terror, the Museum of Fine Arts and the Franz Liszt Museum can be found. Since I was once a music student and dreamt of playing Liszt on

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the piano, knowing that these places are within reach via this avenue gave me a high. Even with just a drive-by and the multiple construction taking place, the Heroes Square still communicate a sense of grandiosity. At the center of the square is a column that towers above all else. On it is the figure of the Archangel Gabriel holding the Hungarian holy crown on one hand and the double cross on the other, an obvious reference to religion and royalty.

Buda, the old capital

To get to Buda, one has to cross a historic bridge, the Chain Bridge. At night, when the sun starts to set, the bridge suddenly turns into a string of pearls as it is lit up. From end to end, it crosses the Danube, like a line of fireflies connecting the twin cities. At the heart of the Buda side is a complex called Castle District. On one side is the Matthias Church and Fisherman’s Bastion, while on the other are the Royal Palace or Buda Castle and Castle Garden. All of these look out to the Danube.

Opposite clockwise: Chain Bridge; fenicular entrance; Reformist Church; streets exude a classical vibe; Gyula Andrassy statue; Erzebt Square pond. This page: St. Stephen’s statue; Matthias Church; church entrance.

The Matthias Church is an all-white marble church in the gothic tradition. Its beautiful spires stand elegant and glorious. But of all its features, the most curious is a raven with a ring in its beak, perched on one of the white spires. According to legend, Matthias’ mother sent for him with a raven, with that exactly: a ring in its beak. The raven supposedly flew non-stop from Transylvania to Prague, and thus the boy king of ravens was crowned. Another legend has the raven snatching the ring from Matthias’ hand, with the lad giving chase then killing the bird. He proceeded to make it his emblem. But make no mistake, Matthias Corvinus is a real person who brought peace and prosperity to the country in the 15th century. Despite the myth and legend behind the raven, the Church’s polychromed roof will surely keep you in awe. The patterns created by the colors look like they are in perpetual motion. The Matthias Church is actually consecrated to the Virgin Mary and has witnessed various important events in the history of the country. Coronations of Hapsburgs, including Charles IV, the last Hapsburg, was held here, as well as the two marriages of King Matthias. He became a widow, thus the two marriages. Also, outside the church is a statue of St. Stephen, Hungary’s first king. But the major attraction outside the church is the Fisherman’s Bastion. With seven conical roofs that represent the seven tribes of Hungary, the bastion gives the place a Medieval atmosphere. But the

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most romantic feeling comes from the panoramic view of the Danube River. Peering through the arches of the bastion, one can see Pest as it rises from the banks of the Danube. This place actually gives you the best view of the whole Parliament. Across Matthias Church and the Fisherman’s Bastion is the Royal Palace or Buda Castle. It was the first Royal Residence. Walking from Matthias Church and the Fisherman’s Bastion, we entered through the side and we ended up in front of the Castle. Our timing couldn’t have been more perfect as there was a changing of the guards. It took place under the shadow of the elegantly mounted bronze statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy. It’s truly amazing to see how these ceremonies survive. To make the experience fuller, one can ride the funicular from the foot of the Chain Bridge and watch Pest as it unfolds right in front of you. But the best view was up in the Citadel at Gallert Hill. From this vantage point, we saw the entire meandering Danube as it cut across Buda and Pest. I can imagine Sissy, the Empress Elisabeth of Austria, looking on her dominion as she vacations here and marvels at the beauty of the Danube. Too bad selfies were not in vogue then.

A Danube dinner and the most beautiful café in the world

I may have missed a Danube cruise due to the heavy rain that greeted us while we were there, but I got something extraordinary to make up for that: dinner in the famous Blue Danube. As I was perusing the menu, the magic word “duck” suddenly leapt from its pages. Who makes a mistake with duck? Indeed, the roasted duck leg was as tasty as I expected and the sidings of cabbage, onion and potato were equally delightful. As we were enjoying our meals, there was

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Clockwise from opposite: Buda Castle; dining along the Danube; sausages and potatoes as the staple meal; New York City Cafe; kurtoskalacs (chimney cake); changing of the guards in front of Buda Castle.

a trio who went from table to table, granting whatever tune was requested. And when they came to our table, of course what else is there to request but “The Blue Danube” (although it’s more of a Viennese waltz than it is a Hungarian tune). After the hearty dinner, we walked the streets and came across a very curious stand. It was baking what’s called “Kurtoskalacs” or chimney cakes. It had a contraption that looks like a 4-inch diameter barrel by around 14 inches long. The seller wraps dough around it and puts it on a spinning “grill”; it gets cooked or “barbequed” in the process. These come in a variety of flavors and when you buy one, they slide it off from the contraption and you get a long thin “doughnut.” The following day, we proceeded to the “best café in the world.” The New York City Café is situated inside the luxury hotel New York Palace Budapest, one of the five ultra-luxury hotels of the Dedica Anthology group. Located along Grand Boulevard, it cannot be missed. Waiting in without reservations, we were made to stay behind a velvet rope. Once seated, I felt like I was in a palace in St. Petersburg while I “commanded” for my order. After our managing editor told the waiter it was my birthday, I was suddenly treated to a slice of their opera cake. After dinner, we initially had no intentions of ordering dessert, and of course the prices had something to do with it, but with that one-half slice of the opera cake, we ended up ordering two more desserts. On the way out, as we passed by the lobby, I marveled at how the hotel was drop-dead gorgeous. Baroque-inspired, it was just unbelievable. I could feel the intimacy and the warmth, despite its very formal ambience. Some scholars suggest that in the name Budapest, the word Buda may have come from the Slavic word for water. Incidentally, Pest is a Hungarian word for oven or furnace. Combined, it can be said that Buda and Pest are fire and water, symbolically in contrast of each other. But in reality, they manage to bring out the best from each other, and the world is all the better for it.

From top: entrance to the Great Meteoron; Byzantine mural inside; an alley at the side; one of the monasteries on top of the hills of Meteora; recent asianTraveler 103 paintings in the style of the Byzantine era.

Amsterdam

All embracing, free flowing

From Escher to Mondrian, from beer to diamonds, writer Willy Marbella and photographer Gabriel Dela Cruz were dazzled by everything there is to see in the Dutch capital.

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In Amsterdam, bicycles are king.

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he Escher image of doves turning black to white, or white to black, should have been a fair warning of what was to greet me in Amsterdam. My bucolic impression of Dutch milkmaids, wooden clogs and languid windmills are far removed from the realities of 21st century Netherlands. But being popularly known as the “second best city to live in,” it is not doing too shabby. After collecting our luggages and finding our way to the hotel, our coordinator coaxed us into going to the city center to plan for the next day’s tour. As we asked for directions from the hotel lobby, we were told that there were a lot of people, short of mayhem, because it was going to be the finale of the gay pride parade. Not knowing what that meant, we proceeded to the train station, which, luckily was just in front of the hotel.

Basking in Gay Pride and a little red light

We finally reach Amsterdam’s city center and even before we can get out of the subway station, we can already hear music blaring out like a maniac. We were all wondering about the party atmosphere, until we remembered the info given us from the hotel. After finding out that the tourist center was closed for the day, we decided to make the most of the time and walk the streets of Amsterdam, to find out about the commotion. We saw boats on the river cruising to and fro with people in all forms of costume, or none, playing music, beer at hand and toasting to the occasion of the gay pride. Some boats even bore themes. The most popular symbol of course was the rainbow flag as it bedecked the boats, with people in them wearing multicolored wigs. It’s as if we imbibed the crowd’s devil-may-care attitude as we braved the side streets of the Centrum district. We perused the shops of the Centrum or the (in)famous redlight district. There were pizza parlors, restaurants, ice cream stands, and before I can even blink, I suddenly realized I was looking at a cannabis ice cream freezer. More than delighted, I was amused at how liberal the city is. Soon, more stores started to command my attention. There was a paella restaurant that we were to go back to for dinner, inns, laundromats, and of course, sex shops. Yes, they are all legal and out on the streets open to anyone who needs anything, and for a jaded 50-something Asian, these were unchartered waters. Getting out of the Centrum, we suddenly found ourselves in the middle of a humongous street party. There was a stage where the music was coming from, and at the opposite end of the square, in front of what looks like a medieval castle, are kiosks selling alcohol. And in the middle of the square where the party was taking place, people just milled around, danced to the music, kissed three times (that’s the Dutch way) and just had a good time. We decided to stay and stand our ground to experience more of the revelry, first-hand. As we people-watched, we were treated to a slew of fetishes, especially of the S&M kind. And as the music continued blaring, we saw a guy dancing inside a fountain in full mermaid costume. Unbeknownst to us, in front of him is another guy, but this time in a sea monster get-up, also with an S&M flair. None of us have ever been to a gay pride festival, and to say that the Amsterdam

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From top: images from the Gay Pride Parade; Amsterdam Central Station.

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version we just witnessed was fun is an understatement. And it doesn’t stop there, for across this particular square was another square, the more famous Dam Square with another street party.

Taking the hop-on-hop-off

The following day, we took the easiest way to see the city: the hop-on-hop-off bus. And since this is Amsterdam, as expected, our first stop was a diamond cutting facility. We got off at Gassan Diamond. Diamond is one of the bestknown products of Amsterdam. This started way back in the 16th century with the Serphadic Jews who first established it here. In Amsterdam, we were able to see an actual diamond being cut into perfection. Of course, we were also given a short lecture on the development of the different cuts and how the brilliant cut came into being. It was just amazing to see how this is all done by someone. On the way out, I had to go through a cabal of jewelry and a watch store, all trying to vie for my attention. The former costume jewelry designer in me was simply amazed. Moving on, our next stop was the famous Rijksmuseum. Probably one of the most famous and important museums in Amsterdam, it is famous for one particular painting: “The Night Watch”. But the Rijksmuseum is so much more than this one painting by Rembrandt. Some say the displays number at 8,000 objects. It’s quite impossible to see it all, much less appreciate them all in one quick go. So with a cursory survey, I had to zero in on what to me were the important pieces. Of course, “Night Watch” was at the top of the list. But the way they situated it was brilliant. As I moved up the second floor where it is located, the museum first whet my appetite by showing classical pieces from various Dutch artists like Van Gogh and other masters like Lautrec. There are also the delft wares, considered a gift by the Dutch to the world. One of the more interesting pieces I found in the collection were the busts of William and Mary Stuart, done it delft ceramics.

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Clockwise from this page to opposite: Floating Tourist Central; Van Gogh self-portrait; Rembrandt self-portrait; a painting in the Rijksmuseum; restos along the canals; diamond cutting; cannabis treats, pizzas and fetish shops.

As I moved from one collection to the other zones, eagerly awaiting “the painting,” I had to leave this area and end up in an open space. After admiring the stained-glass wall and figuring out how and why the figures were chosen, I suddenly see a glass door in the middle of the hallway. From the glass door I saw “the painting.” With haste, I entered the glass door, and I can only see half of “the painting” as a crowd was already standing still in front of it. Walking towards “the painting” was an experience in itself. As I slowly come near it, all the other galleries on the sides become a blur. In my head playing was Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony, as characters in the painting, complete with horses and chickens, assemble, and by the time the tune in my head reaches the crescendo, I was finally brought in front of it, “The Night Watch” by Rembrandt. It was right before my eyes and it was magical. As a former curator, this moment was an epiphany. After reading, analyzing, gawking and ogling at this masterpiece, what seemed to be an eternity suddenly became a split-second moment when we had to move on. At the smaller galleries to its side, I had another Rembrandt moment while staring at his self-portrait. The master of chiaroscuro, in his own eyes, by his own hand, seen by me. It was a heart-attack moment for me.

After being mesmerized by Rembrandt, Vermeer, Durer, Van Dyke and so many more, I decided to skip the De Stijl exhibit simply because of time constraints. But I remained curious to find out how it feels to look at the squares of Mondrian, and the chair by Gerrit Rietveld. All angular, all mechanical. Curiously, Escher, whose work is the first one you’ll see upon arrival in the airport, is not in the museum’s collection. After the Rijksmusuem, it was time for lunch. It was a short distance to the Vondel Park to get to the seafood restaurant we were looking for. Once there, it was unbelievable how packed

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the place was. For three Asians, this was a treat. My companions have both been to this place, so they are aware of what was to come, but I was totally green. A few minutes after ordering, in comes our dish of seafoods on a bed of ice. This was an oddity to me since I am used to freshly cooked ones. We engaged our neighbors in the next table since they look Asian, and as it turned out, they were from Singapore. And for them, the prices of Amsterdam are a treat; it was a different story for us though. We were telling them about a place in Manila, actually just around my neighborhood, where you can buy the seafoods alive, go to a restaurant, and tell them how you want them cooked. It was totally amazing for them. After an additional order of mussels, we made our way back to the park and jumped into a boat that took us back to the city center.

The heavenly Heineken experience

Our second day started out with a tour of the Heineken Museum. Dubbed the Heineken Experience, it was a half-day’s worth of learning about Amsterdam’s signature drink. Just a little backgrounder, in the olden times, because of pollution, it is said that beer was safer to drink than water, so even the children were given beer to drink. The Heineken Experience was so hefty it deserves its own write-up, but let me just highlight some of the portions that were most memorable to me. After going through a series of presentations of Heineken’s history and the raw materials used in beer brewing, I was fascinated by the hologram of the current chairwoman as she welcomed us inside the old brewing station of the company. The big copper vats that still exist were totally charming; it reminded me of the Great Gatsby era when there was much decadence and joie de vivre. After the vats, we went to the stables where the Clydesdale horses are cared for. From what I remember, there were six stables but there were only two horses. Apparently, the other four, two pairs that is, were in town pulling beer wagons as part of their promotion. I think they hardly need any promoting. Anyway, the next part which was also spellbinding was the audio-visual presentation, where we were hauled into a room, and all of sudden, the walls, floors and ceiling started showing grains pouring in, bubbles swirling around, and a conveyor belt trusting us on an assembly line, as we were “bottled” and were now ready to be delivered. The next phase was party time. It showed the many locations in the world where Heineken is served. After this, everyone was given a small glass with a shot of the famous beer. What I found funny was when the toast master excused himself from drinking because he was afraid that we would end up veering away from his spiel as the day wore on. That elicited a whole lot of chuckle from the audience. After the toast came a series of interactive activities where the audience was an essential part of each one. Some of the most memorable were the video booth with two stationary

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Clockwise from opposite: The windmill is a pub; cocktails while canal-cruising; Amsterdam skyline; immobile house boats; canal as promenade; a local, traditional dish; inside the Heineken museum; sardine platter; cheese store.

bicycles, and as people cycle on, the background will have you indeed, they looked like they were dancing, they went askewed cycling through Europe and different parts of the world, and because the soil was too soft to keep them straight. Each house you can hug and kiss and do all sorts of what-knots as you pass had to have a piece of wood with a hook jutting out from the top by the different landscapes. I also remember the screen where I in order to lift items that cannot be carried through the stairs, moved my hands to create drawings on the screen. Behind it was because of how narrow the houses where and how the taxes an actual disco complete with moving graphic lights and prevented them from building wider houses. The Amsterdam have dance music. And just when we thought we have seen guides pointed out the legend of the skinny bridge, it all, there was a bar where give your token, get a glass is popularly how a father tried to keep two sisters close to each of beer, and in the other end, you can keep refilling until There are just so many stories that will make known as other. closing time. you fall in love with Amsterdam and its people. But one of the alas, as it is said, all good things have to come to an A canal cruise world’s best end. Soon we had to say goodbye to Amsterdam. On our flight to Geneva, the KLM Flight After the Heineken Experience, we made our way back cities to live attendant asked me what my impression was of to the city center yet again, and just about when we Amsterdam. I had but one word for her – fluid. in. were heading for the tram station, in the canal, we saw a Amsterdam struck me as a city that is in a constant boat with a bar and a line of people waiting to get it. Of state of flux. Wooden clogs next to sex shops, Rembrandt next course, we had to get in as well. to Mondrian, canals next to bicycles. It was not chaos, but it After settling in, the skipper did the initial introduction certainly was not straightforward either. It will let you examine and the boat started to cruise. For some reason, this ride was yourself, examine others, accept others, and most of all, accept more intimate than the one we had the previous day. While telling yourself. And just like Escher’s doves, nevermind if it was stories about the places we were cruising by, the lady bartender turning white or black, as long as it stays in harmony with each was busy making and serving drinks. other, it will not be long before Amsterdam becomes the best The ride amidst the canals and bridges was uniquely place to live in, if it isn’t yet. memorable. We were ducking and touching the bridges when the opportunity presented itself. In fact, both skipper and bartender encouraged it. They pointed out the dancing houses;

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SIDE TRIPS

NEGROS

OCCIDENTAL Gorgeous, glorious, green Writer Vic S. Sevilla and photographer Zean Villongco journeyed through this Visayan province and discovered how going green could be the most exciting endeavor.

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Negros Occidental is indeed turning out to be one of the country’s fastest-growing destinations, receiving as much as 1 .7 million tourists in 2017. asianTraveler 113

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ention Negros Occidental, the capital city of Bacolod, and talk of sugar, sugar barons and their sprawling plantations invariably flavor the conversation. Sugar, after all, made the province the grand dame of the Visayas. But there is more to this province than sugar, as my four-day trip across it proved. “Negros Occidental is gearing its marketing and development efforts to promote sustainable tourism, or ‘green’ tourism,” explains Cristine Mansinares, the province’s supervising tourism operations officer. “For Negros Occidental, green tourism means putting up green measures in the operations of tourism-related establishments. We have hotels that are certified Green ASEAN hotels. We have establishments that are into natural and organic farming. We have establishments that source their ingredients from local farmers.” The thrust, rather than put off tourists, seems to have placed Negros Occidental in the consciousness of a niche market — tourists who appreciate nature as it is. Negros Occidental is indeed turning out to be one of the country’s fastest-growing destinations, receiving as much as 1.7 million tourists in 2017. The charms of San Carlos City Located at the northeast part of the province, is the bustling city of San Carlos City. Near the city proper is a sprawling complex that combines art, culture and recreation: People’s Park. Built from a former dumpsite, People’s Park has become a hub of leisure both for locals and tourists. If anything, it symbolizes the passion of its leaders and its people to keep San Carlos clean and green. I am told that a ban on plastic bags and styrofoam containers is already in effect. In selling their produce, storekeepers will have to use banana leaves and old newspaper to wrap their merchandise. People have started using reusable nylon net bags in buying at the public market. For its zealous efforts, San Carlos has figured as a strong finalist in the One Planet City challenge by the World Wildlife Fund for Nature as 2018’s Most Lovable and Sustainable City in the World. It also emerged as the only recipient of the 1st ASEAN Clean Tourist City Award in the whole Visayas during the

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ASEAN Tourism Forum in Chiang Mai, Thailand held last January. “The government of the city is keen on keeping its natural attractions. In mapping out future plans, sustainability is always a priority,” said Philip Gerard Maisog, executive assistant and tourism officer designate of San Carlos City. “In terms of tourism, we are a fairly young player. But in six years, we have made our tourism master plan. Just late last year, we were able to draft our tourism code which determines the high standard of operations we have set for all commercial establishments within the city.” Nestled on its upland slope of Barangay Prosperidad is the charming La Vista Highlands Mountain Resort. Owned by architect Albert Garbanzos, the resort is mix of modern architectural concept and Asian influences. Wide picture windows and verandas open to pocket gardens. The southern face of the resort opens to a panoramic view of rolling hills and the looming Mt. Kanlaon in the distance. Sagay City’s bewitching delights Named after a small, conical shell called sigay, Sagay City straddles the northern

Opposite page, L-R: grilled marlin encrusted in toasted garlic of Artistic White Beach Diving Resort; assorted steamed crabs, grilled bilao and kinilaw at Suyac Island. This page, L-R: Punta Bulata’s grilled shrimps and squid; Nature’s Village Resort’s tinolang isda and fish curry.

most reaches of Negros Occidental like an ice cream cone. “Sagay is unique because you can find something here in Sagay that you cannot find in other places,” stated Mayor Alfredo Marañon III who welcomed us. “For one, the Sagay Marine Reserve is one the biggest marine reserves in the Philippines and offers a wide biodiversity.” Covering approximately 32,000 hectares, the marine reserve includes the islands of Molocaboc, Diut, Matabas and Suyac, as well as the reefs of Carbin, Macahulom and Panal. Within the reserve are more than 500 hectares of mangroves hosting giant fruit bats. To see how communities in Sagay have become integral parts of the city’s tourism development, we headed to the old Sagay port, climbed on a pump boat, and made our way to the mangrove island of Suyac. In line with the city’s sustainable tourism development, the Suyac Island Mangrove Eco-Park is managed by members of the community who have lived on the island for generations. Originally fishermen who cared little for the sea and the environment, they now manage and protect the mangrove island.

Cristela Bacruya belongs to the Suyac Island Eco-Tourist Attendant Association and is responsible for welcoming tourists. Along with others in the association’s entertainment committee, she performs a song and dance presentation to welcome visitors and informs them of the rules and regulations that are being implemented on the island. “Garbage in, garbage out. Drinking liquor is not allowed, as well as wearing skimpy swimsuit and smoking inside the cottages. There is a designated smoking area,” she stressed. A few years back, when super typhoon Yolanda struck the northern reaches of Negros Island, many in Suyac feared for their lives. Had it not been for the mangrove trees that protected the village from the storm surge and strong winds, many would have perished. Today, the people of Suyac happily tend to the trees as if these are cherished family members. Suyac Island is home to nine species of mangrove trees. Apart from serving as breeding ground for three-fourths of all tropical fishes, it is a habitat for many organisms, reptiles and birds. At Suyac, tourists can enjoy paddling, swimming under a canopy of mangrove trees, laze inside cottages while enjoying the view, or walk the 500-meter boardwalk that takes the peripatetic through dense mangrove forests. Gourmands, on the other hand, may sample the delicacies that the island offers. Jenalyn Burlan, a housewife and mother of two, now cooks for guests coming to the island. Today, she entered the cottage carrying a whole basket of assorted crabs — pitik-pitik, alimango and alimasag. She also prepared several dishes from bulao (short-bodied mackerel) such as tinola, grilled and the piquant kinilaw. “Everything is fresh because we catch the fish and the crabs just around the island. I cook everyday for guests who come to our island. This had given my family additional income,” she said. In the evening, we headed to Talisay and checked into Nature’s Village Resort. Here, the rooms feature frescoes depicting the sceneries of Negros Occidental — sugarcane plantations, seascapes, and views of rolling mountains. As we sat down for dinner, I was informed that the salad greens have all been grown in the hotel’s vegetable garden. Mansinares said, “The hotel practices vermicomposting to make the soil in its garden suitable for growing vegetables. It also re-purposes many of the materials it uses

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— such as the chandeliers made from used bottles. The owners and management of the hotel strictly adhere to the standards of green tourism.” Calatrava’s flavors and colors We headed next to the town of Calatrava where Amirose Lavilla, the municipality’s tourism focal person, greeted us with a basket of warm, fragrant bread. “It is our native bread called salvaro,” she said smilingly. A bite of the bread reveals a slightly caramel-y taste. Apparently, apart from flour, salt and the famous Negros sugar, salvaro uses tuba as leavening agent. The fermented coconut juice leaves a layer of delightful sweetness to the bread. “It has become famous even outside Calatrava. Even visiting Calatravanons who now live abroad, OFWs and tourists, buy salvaro to take with them when they leave,” Lavilla added. Unavailable commercially, the salvaro is made in the morning and is sold out by midday. Visitors who wish to take home the bread must place their order at least a day or two before they leave. Though some versions exist in neighboring towns and islands, Lavilla stresses that salvaro originated in Calatrava, the recipe of which has been passed down from one generation to the next. Nang Mayang, one of the more prominent salvaro makers who is now in her 70s, has learned the art of baking the sweet bread when she was just 9 years old from her mother and grandmother. With appetites satiated, we headed to the seaside weaving community in Barangay Mahilo. We met Thelma “Timay” Canillo who used to belong to a village of fishermen. Although the villagers knew how to weave even then, fishing was their main livelihood. Timay, in her desire to support her family better, tried a weaving experiment using the thorny pandan leaves that grow abundantly year-round in the village. “It all started with a small idea to create an additional livelihood for the community. Since pandan grows abundantly in our village and has long been used to weave mats, we thought of using it in creating other items,” she explained. Timay started with 10 weavers who wove mats and bags. She would sell the products in the market or roam the streets of the next town or city hoping to interest housewives to buy. Having earned the interest of foreign and local bulk buyers, she now employs about 100 weavers from the entire village. Children, some as young as 7 years old, help their parents in weaving to augment the family income.

Clockwise from top left: Bugana’s romantic suite; sugarcane murals in one of the rooms at Nature’s Village Resort; the Safari Room of La Vista Highlands; a balcony of Danjugan Island; La Vista Highlands offers a commanding view; at May’s Garden, visitors are shown how plastic waste is re-purposed. Opposite page: visitors take a dip at Punta Bulata’s pool; more rooms at Nature’s Village Resort and La Vista Highlands.

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The marvels of Sipalay City With 148 hectares of marine protected area, involving the community is a sound strategy to implement the Sipalay City’s tourism code. “The operations of the 48 resorts coincide with the tourism development plan and tourism code. The fisher folks who at first resisted the programs saw that it is not just fishing that benefits from the marine protected areas, but also tourism,” says Rhia Carbajosa, tourism officer of Sipalay. Many of Sipalay’s fishermen have stopped fishing altogether and have

started to offer tourism-related services such as island hopping and ferrying tourists to the different dive sites situated in the municipal waters. Sipalay offers beaches of varied sand colors and textures. Sugar Beach is so-called because of the sugary texture of its brown sand, which is reminiscent of muscovado sugar. Punta Ballo, on the other hand, boasts of its fine white sand, while Campomanes Bay is lined by a coralline beach. Those who wish to dive and witness the underwater life of Sipalay can choose from 42 dive sites. In Campomanes Bay, the remains of the SS Panay, which sank during World War II, lies underneath the deep waters and is now a sanctuary to schools of fish and coral growth. We also took a quick trip to Maasin Cave, a rocky limestone outcropping in the middle of the sea that hosts small fruit bats. It opens to a wide expanse of crystal-clear waters and blue skies. On the shore of Campomanes Bay is a charming boutique hotel called Bugana (which means “prosperity”). Owned by Marc Kalitta and his wife Eva Rose, Bugana takes inspiration from Southeast Asian design elements with a modern twist. The couple took us to one of their villas perched on a slope. Its doors slide open to reveal a private dipping pool framed by trees overlooking the blue waters of Campomanes Bay. Going green, the Kalittas have installed solar panels and are about to replace all plastic implements in the hotel with biodegradable ones. Those possessed of an adventurous spirit can go diving, scuba diving, kayaking, paddle boarding, island hopping, or water biking. There is even a mountain trail at the back to which Marc will happily take guests, if he is not busy cooking or taking care of other guests’ needs.

At Punta Ballo Beach, the caretaker of Artistic Diving White Beach Resort treated us to lunch. Alvie Vecinal told us that Artistic is owned by Evalyn and Arthur Mueller from Switzerland who opened the dive shop and resort some 20 years ago. “It started with four rooms and a dive shop. He had a few guests from abroad who introduced the resort to others. Because of word of mouth, Artistic has grown and developed through the years,” tells Vecinal. Artistic now has 20 rooms for backpackers, deluxe rooms good for three persons, a villa for four, and superior for six persons. Of course, protecting such a wide area is no job for the faint of heart. Edsel Toledo, a Bantay Dagat coordinator, knows this only too well. “Bantay Dagat is a task force formed by the local government of Sipalay to guard the municipal waters from illegal fishing. We are also tasked to protect the natural resources of the municipal waters of Sipalay, including its coral reefs, mangrove forests and sea grass beds,” Toledo said. Although confrontations with those who break the municipal laws are inevitable, Toledo realizes that the good his job brings far outweigh the possible dangers. “The fishermen are happy because with the strict protection of the marine reserves, the big fish have returned to the municipal waters of Sipalay. In the past, many of them had to sail to as far as Palawan to be able to secure an abundant catch. Today, they are able to fish for tuna, sailfish and marlin within 20 kilometers off the shoreline.” Peace and serenity at Danjugan Island Before ferrying to Danjugan Island, we spent the night at Punta Bulata Resort and Spa, a romantic enclave nestled by forests and cradled by the gentle lapping of the sea. Our beach cabana,

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This page, clockwise from top: greenhouse for herbs at May’s Garden; a pandan weaver inside a cave in Calatrava; Punta Bulata’s beach; Sagay City Mayor Alfredo Marañon III. Opposite page, clockwise from top: Campomanes Bay is rich in marine life; white sands of Danjugan Island; Punta Bulata as a perfect quiet hideaway; bamboo walkway at Danjugan Island; Maasin Island’s cave ends in a view of the sea; a colorful mural welcomes visitors to Danjugan Island.

facing the white-sand beach, has a large bed strewn with bright yellowbells. The following day, we set off early for Danjugan Island, which is 3 kilometers off the shore of Bulata. Danjugan is a marine reserve and wildlife sanctuary for a wide variety of marine and terrestrial life. It is home to over 500 species of fish and over 200 species of hard and soft corals. It also nurtures giant clams and gets seasonal visitors like reef sharks, rays, sea turtles, dolphins, and on occasion, a migrating whale shark. On land, visitors might go bird watching and marvel at any of the 72 species of birds that either pass through or call Danjugan their home. If one is lucky, he may get a glimpse of the elusive Stork-Billed Kingfisher, or a migrating Black-Crested Tern. Those feeling a bit indolent may swim on the beach or stroll leisurely through the mangrove walk, get a massage, or sleep in the comforts of the

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Eco-Cabana, fanned by breeze coming in from the sea amid the call of birds. Bacolod, at last On our last day, having made the long trip from Cauayan to Bacolod, we snuck in hurriedly to a quaint garden before heading to the airport to catch our flight back to Manila. May’s Garden is a self-sustaining facility right in the heart of the bustling city. Spread across 6.2 hectares is an organic vegetable farm, a greenhouse of herbs, a small piggery without the offending odor, a lemongrass distillery, an RU shredding facility, a vermi-composting facility and a petting zoo. May’s Garden, the product of the collaboration between the RU Foundry and Machine Shop Corp. and the Eco-Agri Development Foundation, highlights the possibility of an organic lifestyle and eco-friendly existence within the city. It started with the passion of

Ramon Uy Sr. and his wife May Aileen to bring organic farming and environment protection to an urban setting. Today, May’s Garden offers accommodations to guests who wish to escape from the trappings of modernity and live a healthier lifestyle. It also has a restaurant that serves organic produce prepared in a variety of delicious ways. The park has a swimming pool, horseback riding grounds, a lake for swan boating, and venues for weddings and seminars. It was just as well that we ended our jaunt to Negros Occidental in this eco-garden in the city. This pocket of paradise summarizes the entire province’s tourism thrust — that development, enjoyment and a better quality of life can be achieved by observing the most intrinsic value that is vital for growth and survival: to take care of nature first before reaping its just rewards.

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TRAVELER’S EYE

PORTUGAL BONS TEMPOS

My road trip to Portugal this year proved to be one of the most memorable trips I ever took abroad. Alongside my beautiful wife and two children, we got to explore the hidden treasures, sumptuous dishes, breathtaking views and rich culture of Portugal, which made us realize we were indeed enjoying good times. Lisbon is the sensational capital city of Portugal and one of the most vibrant places in Europe. It is the birthplace of St. Anthony de Padua, one of the great saints of Portugal. The stunning Basilica of St. Anthony de Padua in Lisbon is located in the Alfama region of the city, where Saint Anthony grew up. The simplicity of the architecture has a certain charm about it. It was said that newly married couples tend to visit the church and leave flowers, asking Saint Anthony to bless their marriage. Portugal is renowned for its fish dishes, namely cod and sardines. Tins of sardines, otherwise known as conservas are popular souvenir items among tourists for their cool and creative designs. Cirque de Sardine, however, took Portugal’s love for sardines on a different level. The place was like a cirque du soleil in the middle of downtown Lisbon. Mundo Fantástico da Sardinha Portuguesa advertised a great sardine show with a circus theme. My family and I were blessed to spend a weekend at the Sanctuary of Fatima, which is considered the biggest pilgrimage site in Portugal. The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Fátima is a Roman Catholic Marian basilica. Its construction began in 1928 and it was consecrated in October 1953. The shrine attracts a huge number of Roman Catholics, and every year on the dates of the Fatima apparitions, May 13 and Oct. 13, pilgrims fill the country road that leads to the shrine. Overall, about four million pilgrims visit the basilica each year. The entrance to the Fátima Sanctuary, south of the rectory, was said to be a segment of the Berlin Wall, intended to emphasize the belief that the Rosary prayers influenced the fall of the Berlin Wall related to the Consecration of Russia, based on the Our Lady of Fátima messages. The next day, we also made a quick turn to the House of St. Lucia (Casa de Lucia) which was a humble stone home located in a small village just outside Fatima. I could not deny that one of the best things in Portugal is the food. Portugal did not disappoint and presented us with heavenly Portuguese egg tarts that we could not stop eating the whole time we were there. Eating in Portugal, whether it be fine dining or casual dining, or just tasting the exquisite fare from the streets, was surely crafted to be enjoyed as an adventure in itself. This trip indeed took us to so many breathtaking places that I cannot wait to go back and experience Portugal all over again. Até nos encontrarmos novamente, Portugal!

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WHAT’S NEXT Let’s have a quick recap of where we have brought you this year, so far: the best beaches and islands last summer, mesmerizing Asian cities and hideaways by mid-year, then the eternally captivating Europe this issue. Where can we possibly take you next? Would you like a crosscountry exploration of the Americas? How about a soulful adventure in Africa? Would you care for a culinary or cosmopolitan adventure? Or perhaps another escapade into some of Asia’s most captivating islands and beaches? Look at it this way – it’s a surprise, and it may be among the best gifts you can treat your wanderlust with as we say goodbye to this year and welcome the new one.

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