Identifying and Dating 19th Century Photographs: Part I Flipbook PDF

Identifying and Dating 19th Century Photographs: Part I ©Diane VanSkiver Gagel, M. A. ... – Hair—side part, curled over

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Identifying and Dating 19th Century Photographs: Part I ©Diane VanSkiver Gagel, M. A. Monclova, Ohio I. Non-Paper Photographs A. Daguerreotypes 1. 1840-1860 2. Mirror-like quality; cased B. Ambrotypes 1. 1851-1880 2. Glass image with black background; cased C. Tintypes, Ferrotypes, or Melainotypes 1. 1853-1930s 2. Black japanned iron 3. Sometimes found in old ambrotype cases D. Cases 1. Type of frame 2. Case composition 3. Case design 4. mat styles II. Card Photographs A. Carte de visite 1. 1854-1885 2. check cardstock, corners, borders, props, revenue stamps B. Cabinet Cards 1. 1869-1920 2. Cardstock, borders, stock colors, corners, advertising C. Salt Prints 1. 1850-60, 1880s 2. non-lustrous; colors: sepia, brown, purple D. Albumen Prints 1. Most paper photographs fall in this category 2. Glossy appearance E. Woodburytypes 1. 1865-1890s 2. Red tint

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Photographs F. Cyanotypes 1. 1885-1910 2. Blue Tint G. Stereographs 1. 1850s2. card mount, colors, corners III. Other means of dating photographs A. Props--backgrounds, furniture, motorcars, bicycles B. Photographer C. Fashions IV. Preservation and storage of historic photographs A. NEVER USE MAGNETIC ALBUMS B. Albums should be archival quality--acid free paper, etc. C. Storage: flat and protected from heat, cold, sunlight, humidity. D. Display--not advisable unless protected by UV glass and acid free mats. E. Have copy negatives made of all historic photographs. V. Preservation and storage of negatives A. Nitrate negatives 1. 1889-1951 2. Still and movie film 3. Very flammable; store in freezer until copies can be made then dispose of as hazardous material. B. Storage of other negatives--old and new 1. separate envelopes or sleeves 2. do not expose to paint fumes or cleaning supplies 3. Store off-site from photographs--bank safety deposit box

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Photographs Select Bibliography Baldwin, Gordon. Looking at Photographs: A Guide to Technical Terms. Malibu, CA: J. Paul Getty Museum, 1991. Bennett, Stuart. Christie’s Collectors Guides: How to Buy Photographs. Oxford, England: Phaidon, 1987. “Care and Storage of Color Slides.” Brochure from Light Impressions. Crawford, William. The Keepers of the Light: A History & Working Guide to Early Photographic Processes. Dobbs Ferry, NY: Morgan & Morgan, 1979. Dalrymple, Priscilla Harris. American Victorian Costumes in Early Photographs. New York: Dover Publications, Inc., 1991. Davies, Thomas L. Shoots: A Guide to Your Family’s Photographic Heritage. Danbury, NH: Addison House, 1977. Frisch-Ripley, Karen. Unlocking the Secrets in Old Photographs. Salt Lake City: Ancestry, 1991. Gagel, Diane VanSkiver. Ohio Photographers, 1839-1900. Nevada City, CA: Carl Mautz Publishing, 1998. ------------------------------------.“Historic Photography: Identification and Preservation.” Ancestry. Vol. 14:6 (Nov/Dec 1996): 7-13. -----------------------------------. “Card and Paper Photographs, 1854-1900. Ancestry. Vol. 15:5 (Sept/Oct 1997): 13-17. -----------------------------------. Directory of Photographers in the U. S. in 1888 & 1889 and Canada 1889. Bowie, MD: Hertiage Books, Inc., 2002. ----------------------------------- Windows on the Past: Identifying, Dating, and Preserving Photographs. Bowie, MD: Hertiage Books, Inc., 2000. Henisch, Heinz K. and Bridget A. Henisch. The Photographic Experience, 1839-1914: Images and Attitudes. 1994. ------------------------------------------------------. The Painted Photograph 1839-1914: Origins, Techniques, Aspirations. University Park, PA: Pennsylvania U. Press, 1996. Hill, May Davis. “Hidden Stories in Your Photographs.” Family Heritage June 1978: 86-94. Horridge, Patricia, & Diane G. Smathers, Diane L. Vachon. “Dating Costumes: A Check List Method.” History News 32 (Dec 1977): 327-339. Keefe, Jr., Laurence E. and Dennis Inch. The Life of a Photograph: Archival Processing, Matting, Framing, and Storage. Boston: Focal Press, 1984. Kelbaugh, Ross J. Introduction to Civil War Photography. Gettysburg, PA: Thomas Publications, 1991. Lawrence, John H. Preservation Guide 2: Photographs. New Orleans: The Historic New Orleans Collection, 1983. Leisch, Juanita. Who Wore What? Women’s Wear 1861-1865. Gettysburg, PA: Thomas Publications, 1995. Newhall, Beaumont. The Daguerreotype in America. New York: New York Graphic Society, 1968. Rinhart, Floyd and Marion Rinhart. American Daguerreian Art. New York: Clarkson N. Potter, Inc., 1967. Rudisill, Richard et al. Photographers: A Sourcebook for Historical Research. Brownsville, CA: Carl Mautz Publishing, 1991. Severa, Joan L. Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans and Fashion, 1840-1900. Kent, OH: Kent State U. Press, 1995. Shull, Wilma Sadler. Photographing Your Heritage. Salt Lake City: Ancestry, 1988. Taft, Robert. Photography and the American Scene: A Social History, 1839-1889. New York: Dover Publications. “Tips for Proper Negative Storage.” Brochure from Light Impressions. Webster, Mary. “Frames for Photographs.” Victorian Homes Spring 1991: 52-59. Weinstein, Robert A. and Larry Booth. Collection, Use, and Care of Historical Photographs. Nashville,

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TN: American Association for State and Local History, 1977. Welling, William. Collector’s Guide to Nineteenth Century Photographs. New York: Collier Books. Wood, John, ed. America and the Daguerreotype. Iowa City: U. of Iowa Press, 1991. Conservation Referral from the American Institute for Conservation of Historic and Artistic Works: FAIC Conservation Services Referral System 1717 K Street NW Suite 302 Wash ingto n, DC 2000 6 Phon e: 2024529545

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Windows on the Past: Part II: Dating Fashion 1840-1900 ©Diane VanSkiver Gagel, M. A. Monclova, Ohio What to Evaluate • Women – Hair style and hats – Bodices – Skirts – Accessories • Men – Coat lapels – Cravats or ties – Vests – Buttoning Style – Hats • 1840s Women’s Fashion – Dresses • Pointed bodice • Tight Sleeves; Flared sleeves in late 1840s • Dome-shaped, floor length skirt – Hair • Parted in middle, pulled back over ears – Accessories • Hat sits on back of head • Fingerless black gloves • Hair: center part, pulled back over ears. – Late 1840s • Hair style remains same • Sheer Summer Fabric • Lace collar • Lace mitts/gloves • V-Shaped Bodice still in evidence • Ribbon Belts • 1840s Men’s Fashion – Dark frock coats, no cuffs on trousers – Lapels wide—often touched shoulder seams – Waistcoat—figured and bright – Collars—high, stiff – Cravats– wrapped and tied – Hair—side part, curled over ears, sideburns, beards below chin – Hat—very high top hats

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1840s Children – Girls—hair parted in middle – Boys– hair parted on side – Girls Clothes—miniature versions of women – Boys Clothes • Ankle length trousers, buttoned to shirt • Short, simple jackets • Hair parted on side for boys • Buttons and Piping trim – Young children of both genders wore dresses – Corkscrew curls also popular 1850s Women – First appearance of hoops – Flounces on skirts – Bodice less pointed; high necklines – Sleeves—shorter and wider; tiers; pagoda sleeves – Collars—lacy with brooch – Bonnets—smaller, worn further back on head – Hair still pulled back over ears – Fur muffs and tibbets – Hoop Skirts begin to appear 1850s Men – Coat, trousers, waistcoat match early 1840s – Button only top button of coats – Waistcoats more colorful – Hats—straw, low-crowned, wide-brimmed more popular – Collars—turned down • lapels decrease in size. – Beards—full beards more common – Button only top button popular in late 1850s – Laborer type clothing • Work shirt—wool with placket front • Smaller coat lapel – Tab fastening on coat 1850s Children – Girls Dresses • Plaid, checked, shorter skirts & pantalets – Boys • Zouave, bolero jackets • Plaid stockings • Off shoulder shirts for both boys and girls • Long corkscrew curls even for boys 1860s Women – Hoop skirts – Skirts plain or trimmed in geometric patterns; Natural waist – Bishop sleeves—full but gathered at wrist – Post-war—more elaborate—ruffles, pleats, scallops, fringes, buttons – Hats—smaller on top of head – Hair—curls on foreheads, more elaborate; ears are now showing. Chignon in back; Corkscrew curls popular in late 1860s 1860s Men – Coats and pants match

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– Sack Coat—boxy with bulky sleeves – Trousers—often plaid or checked – Beards more common – Collars—turned down with narrow bow ties – Hair combed forward – Top hat with slightly concave sides – Narrow standing collar new in 1860s – Narrow tie, Narrow lapels 1860s Children – Girls– Garibaldi skirt • Full skirt with wide band of contrasting color near hem – Boys—shirt and Garibaldi knee length pants • Military type caps • Horizontal striped stockings with boots 1870s Women – Bustle—short-waisted, bouffant style; draped overskirt, trains – Decoration—pleats, bows, buttons, ruffles, fringe. – Hats—quite small – Hair—pulled back into snood, chignon, or topped by large braids, curly bangs – Accessories—fringed cravats, velvet neck ribbons, heavy gold chains, pendant earrings 1870s Men – Sack coat and matching suit – Hats—bowlers or straw – Lapels—wider and longer – Overcoats—double-breasted Chesterfields with velvet collars – Hair—short – Beards less common; more moustaches 1870s Children – Girls– Ruffles and overskirts • Big bows at back • Decorative aprons • Hair—shoulder length with bangs – Boys—Knickers, below-the-knee pants, side-buttoned tunics – Modified from Adult Clothes 1880s Women – Dresses • Bodices—fitted basque • Tiny waists and trim hiplines • Bustle returned c1882 • Hats—moderate size, high crowns, decorated with flowers, berries, feathers, plumes, bird wings, and entire birds • Accessories—parasols, fans, umbrellas 1880s Men – Four Styles of coats • Sack coat • Frock coat • Four-button cutaway • Dress coat – Lapels—smaller; coats buttoned high on neck. – Trousers—checked or solid – Hats—bowlers, boaters, caps – Hair—some men had center parts

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1880s Children – Young boys/girls • Dresses straight and low-waisted with pleats, scallops, ruffles, or shirring • Striped stockings – Older Girls—smaller versions of mothers – Older Boys—knee length pants until age 12, then long pants 1890s Women – Narrow skirts, gathered and draped – Sleeves—fuller to full-blown Leg-0-mutton in late 1890s – Hair—worn up and off forehead – Hats—larger, heaped with bows, flowers, lace, ribbons, feathers, birds – Shirtwaist—separate skirt and blouse – Late 1890s—epaulets and exaggerated wide collars; narrow skirts, over-decorated hats. – 1890s Men – Sack Suits – Collars—moderately broad and lapels, winged, or turned down. – Ties—four-in-hand – Hats—derby, bowlers, homburgs, straw boaters – Mutton chop whiskers 1890s Children – Girls—dresses and coats had cape effects at shoulders; sleeves like adult women. – Boys • Extreme length of dresses for young children • Hair—shoulder length and curly • Stockings—solid, dark colors • Sailor suits • Lord Fauntleroy suits • Hairstyle same for both genders—corkscrew curls

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PRESERVATION OF PHOTOGRAPHS AND NEGATIVES – NEVER USE MAGNETIC ALBUMS – Albums should be archival quality--acid free paper, etc. – Storage: flat and protected from heat, cold, sunlight, humidity • Displaying Photographs Do not display originals unless protected by UV glass and acid free mats. Display in a location without direct light—natural and artificial. Have copy negatives made of all historic photographs. • Preservation and Storage of Negatives • Nitrate negatives • 1889-1951 • Still and movie film • Very flammable • Store in freezer until copies can be made then dispose of as hazardous material • Negative Storage • Separate archival envelopes or sleeves • Do not expose to paint fumes or cleaning supplies

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Store off-site from photographs--bank safety deposit boxFireproof storage containers/file cabinets

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