Vogue IN 11.2020 Flipbook PDF

Vogue IN 11.2020

---

1,023 Views
96 Downloads
FLIP PDF 65.19MB

DOWNLOAD FLIP

REPORT DMCA

NOV 2020 150

GITA GOPINATH WOMEN of the YEAR 2020

N E W D E L H I : T H E E M P O R I O. M U M B A I : TA J H O T E L C O L A B A - D I O R .C O M

A A

AR

N

N

O

NOV E M BER /2020

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

LEADER OF THE YEAR: KK SHAILAJA Kerala’s forward-thinking minister of health and social justice is being lauded worldwide for her response to the COVID-19 crisis. By Manju Sara Rajan

WARRIORS OF THE YEAR Fighting an invisible enemy, these five inspirational women, from Kerala to Goa and beyond, put everything on the line to answer the call of duty

BUSINESS LEADER OF THE YEAR: KIRAN MAZUMDAR SHAW She’s India’s good-girl billionaire, who overcame gender bias and went on to lead one of the most successful biotechnology companies in the country. By Renuka Joshi Modi

GLOBAL DESIGNER OF THE YEAR: SARAH BURTON At the helm of Alexander McQueen, she has been leading the discourse on craftsmanship and the empowerment of women through fashion. By Priyanka Khanna

TECH LEADER OF THE YEAR: DEBJANI GHOSH In a year where COVID-19 bulldozed its way through businesses and crippled industries, NASSCOM, under the stewardship of its president, has secured India’s IT sector and its jobs. By Priya Ramani

ENVIRONMENTALIST OF THE YEAR: DIA MIRZA The actor has added ‘activist’ to her public bio and is using her platform to create awareness on issues ranging from conservation to clean living. And she’s been walking the talk for over a decade. By Akanksha Kamath

GLOBAL THOUGHT LEADER OF THE YEAR: GITA GOPINATH The chief economist at the IMF is steering us through the worst recession since the Great Depression. By Shahnaz Siganporia

GLOBAL ENTERTAINER OF THE YEAR: DUA LIPA At the peak of the pandemic, the Grammy-winning artiste put out a party-starting album in a world bereft of dance floors. By Megha Mahindru

PERFORMER OF THE YEAR: VIDYA BALAN On-screen, she gets under the skin of every character she portrays. Off-screen, she has become an icon by simply being herself. By Sneha Mankani

SPOTLIGHT OF THE YEAR Meet Megha Majumdar, Tanya Maniktala, Tripti Dimri and Nilza Wangmo—the four Indian women who have taken over our libraries, screens and kitchens

GLOBAL DISRUPTOR OF THE YEAR: JAMEELA JAMIL Her images are not airbrushed and her words are uncensored— she’s the vocal and fierce actor-activist, whistle-blower and feminist powerhouse who is calling out the hypocrisies of celebrity culture, patriarchy and bigotry of any kind. By Shahnaz Siganporia

SPORTSWOMEN OF THE YEAR: INDIA WOMEN’S NATIONAL FIELD HOCKEY TEAM Whether raising funds for migrant workers in distress, working on their fitness levels at home, learning English online or getting back to training hard on the field, these young champions are not letting the challenges of COVID-19 come in the way of their goals. By Sheree Gomes Gupta

GLOBAL YOUTH INFLUENCER OF THE YEAR: CAMILA CABELLO The musician discusses how she’s found solace a storm. By Nupur Sarvaiya

GLOBAL INDIAN ICON OF THE YEAR: PRIYANKA CHOPRA JONAS 2020 saw her bag a multimilliondollar contract, finish her memoir and achieve plenty more. By Hitha Herzog www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 11

N OV E M B E R /2 0 2 0

18 6

INDYA RISING

LOVES

49 Everything we heart this month

SHOPS

63 Liquid metal, dresses that touch toes, tiered tops, XXL sleeves—our home edit for the season has it all, including ways to make your traditional wardrobe match the new normal of smaller gatherings, the jewellery to opt for, limitededition timepieces and more. The party is, after all, chez vous 16

STYLE

94 The good daughter Alongside subverting the cultural traditions and experiences of her family, designer Supriya Lele now has the honour of dressing them too, as she tells Osman Ahmed 96 The show must go on Dior was one of the first houses to stage a physical fashion show for the resort 2021 collection. In true Maria Grazia Chiuri style, localised crafts and traditions were transformed

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

and transmitted to all corners of the globe. By Priyanka Khanna

as we celebrate more intimately. By Butool Jamaal

100 Tuning in LV Volt, an innovative and genderless fine jewellery collection by Louis Vuitton, plays on the graphic lines of the label’s initials as a metaphor for moving to the rhythm of life. By Akanksha Kamath

108 Rooting for you Gauri Khan launches Zoya’s ‘Rooted’ collection, which draws a bejewelled parallel between female resilience and centuriesold rainforests. By Praachi Raniwala

102 Independent vision These young, womenled labels are catering to our evolving fashion need for clothes that make us feel good

109 The glow up Sobhita Dhulipala, the face of H&M’s campaign, talks about how she brings her style to the brand’s ‘Brighter Than Ever’ line. By Akshara Subramanian

110 A star is born Ana de Armas, the face of the Natural Diamond Council’s campaign, adds another feather to her already full cap. By Priyanka Khanna 112 Classical conditioning Game Of Thrones star Maisie Williams is back in front of the camera with a Cartier campaign. Rishna Shah reports 114 It takes two to tango When high fashion and high watchmaking come together, the results

GREG SWALES

38 Contributors 46 Editor’s letter

THE COVERS

K K Shailaja, photographed by K R Sunil. India women's national field hockey team, photograph courtesy Hockey India. On Gita Gopinath: Shirt, coat, tie; all Dior. Hair and makeup: Kacie Corbelle/ENNIS Inc. Photographer’s assistant: James Huet. Production: Marilyn Cadenbach. Digital tech: Chris Valites. Retouching: Saint Art Retouching. Bookings editor: Prachiti Parakh. Photographed by John Huet. Styled by Taylor Greeley

are nothing short of magical. The creative union between luxury powerhouses Audemars Piguet and Ralph & Russo is giving us all the feels. By Rishna Shah

BEAUTY

119 Funny girl For influencer Kusha Kapila, isolating from conventional standards and claiming her own beauty and body became her biggest strength, discovers Sanjana Salunkhe 122 Hold it together Hair accessories are doubling up as stay-athome favourites to keep wispy strands in place 123 Stop and smell the roses A look inside the world’s first scented bag, the FendiFrenesia. By Praachi Raniwala 124 Ready, set, glow Ahead of the brand’s India launch, Charlotte Tilbury speaks to Avanti

Dalal about how she puts it all together 126 Miracle mushrooms Slathering fungi on your face brings the promise of smaller pores and improved moisture retention 127 Short story With a specialised workout to nail athleisure’s favourite trend, your booty will be the best accessory to your biker shorts. By Priyanka Ghura Kuka 128 Sisterhood of the travelling scents Conquer your wanderlust through these perfumes, says Avanti Dalal 129 Hey, good lookin’ The sexiest sound in the world? The friction of Robert Pattinson’s facial hair as it brushes the telephone receiver. The second sexiest: his thoughts on beauty. By Brennan Kilbane

130 For keeps Everything that deserves your attention and shelf space

FASHION

186 Indya rising Indya Moore has been bullied but they will not be beaten. The model and actor charmed us as the larger-than-life Angel on Pose and is now claiming their space. By Rujuta Vaidya. Photographed by Greg Swales. Styled by Anna Trevelyan 196 Queens of chic Big-sleeve energy, animal prints, lush leather and checks on checks—we’re taking classics to the club (or the living room). Photographed by David Sims. Styled by Ibrahim Kamara

CULTURE

202 Use your words Insta-poets Sophia Thakur, Alisha Patel and Rupi Kaur play with poetry and prose to

communicate the power of speaking truth and raising your voice 206 A beautiful mind She’s the WHO’s firstever chief scientist. Meet Dr Soumya Swaminathan, who is leading the charge in the battle against the pandemic. By Rajashree Balaram 208 The illusionist Sohrab Hura uses image-making to explore his relationship with the world, giving us striking, shapeshifting imagery that captures both the intimate and the distant, writes Radhika Iyengar

LIVING

211 A league of her own At 50, supermodel Claudia Schiffer is marking the milestone with a slew of fashion and design collaborations, finds Parizaad Khan Sethi

214 From India, with love Nestled in Germany’s Black Forest region is a curious gin connection that began in Madras. Neville Bhandara traces its roots 217 The sweetest thing Mithai has been reinvented using modern-day ingredients, flavours and techniques. Sonal Ved picks six new artisanal confections in time for Diwali 220 Diary 222 Shoplist 226 Her side of history Born to a cancer researcher mother from India and an economist father from Jamaica, hers is an immigrant life story that has made it to the power corridors of America— Kamala Harris is the 2020 equivalent of the American Dream

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 17

ARJUN MEHRA

PRIYA TANNA

CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

PUBLISHER Dilshad Arora

FASHION FEATURES DIRECTOR Priyanka Khanna

ADVERTISING DIRECTORS Puja Bilimoria, Sneha Mahant Mehta SENIOR ADVERTISING MANAGER Nidhi Bhardwaj ADVERTISING MANAGER Anjora Wangoo (New Delhi) ASSISTANT ADVERTISING MANAGERS Aarti Bhaskar Morje, Dimple Sutaria PLANNING MANAGER Aparajita Banerjea ADVERTISING SALES COORDINATOR Althea D’Souza ASSISTANT COORDINATOR Mohit Bajaj ITALY SALES REPRESENTATIVE Angelo Carredu US ADVERTISING MANAGER Alessandro Cremona

JUNIOR FASHION FEATURES EDITOR Akanksha Kamath

CHIEF DIGITAL OFFICER - SALES Jabir Merchant

FASHION DIRECTOR Priyanka Kapadia ART DIRECTOR Swaminathan Iyer MANAGING EDITOR Renuka Joshi Modi

FASHION BOOKINGS EDITOR Prachiti Parakh JUNIOR FASHION EDITOR Ria Kamat

ADVERTISING DIRECTORS - DIGITAL SALES Kritika Sharma (New Delhi), Niti Bathija MANAGER - VOGUE PORTFOLIO AND ADVERTISING SALES Arunima Sharma MANAGER - DIGITAL SALES Sana Fatima (New Delhi) MANAGER - PORTFOLIO & DIGITAL ADVERTISING SALES Niyati Dahisaria

BEAUTY EDITOR Sneha Mankani

COMMERCIAL DIRECTORS - EXHIBITIONS Sabina Lall (New Delhi), Ruchira Kanwal (New Delhi)

JUNIOR BEAUTY EDITOR Sanjana Salunkhe

MARKETING DIRECTOR Madhura Phadnis MANAGERS - MARKETING AND SPONSORSHIP Kunjalik Balwani, Ritika Betala

FEATURES DIRECTOR Megha Mahindru

HEAD - ADMINISTRATION Boniface D’souza PR DIRECTOR Swati Katakam Samant SENIOR PR EXECUTIVE Waheeda Abdul Jabbar Machiwala

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Shahnaz Siganporia (New Delhi)

HEAD - EVENTS Fritz Fernandes SENIOR MANAGER - EVENTS Khushnaz Daruwala

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR Snigdha Kulkarni

CNX

JUNIOR PHOTO EDITOR Jay Modi SYNDICATION MANAGER Michelle Pereira COPY CHIEF Neville Bhandara SENIOR COPY EDITOR Almas Khateeb CO-DIGITAL EDITOR AND NETWORK EDITOR Ridhima Sapre CO-DIGITAL EDITOR AND FASHION EDITOR Rujuta Vaidya MANAGING EDITOR - VOGUE.IN Nitya Chablani

CREATIVE DIRECTOR Dipti Soonderji Mongia ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR - CLIENT SERVICING AND PROJECT MANAGEMENT Neha Dhanani MANAGING EDITOR - NATIVE STORIES Shivani Krishan COPY EDITOR - BRAND SOLUTIONS Tanuj Kumar (New Delhi) CREATIVE PRODUCER Mandira Sharma INFLUENCER MANAGER Insiya Bagasrawala SENIOR MANAGERS - BRAND SOLUTIONS Abigail Rodrigues, Shweta Mehta Sen CREATIVE STRATEGISTS Karan Kaul, Sangita Rajan SENIOR DIGITAL WRITER Andrea Pinto DIGITAL WRITER Megha Sharma CREATIVE STRATEGIST - ART Ayushi Teotia ASSOCIATE PROMOTIONS EDITOR Sneha Mahadevan PROMOTIONS WRITER Tina Jimmy Dastur SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNERS Varun Patil, Atul Hirijagner MANAGER - CIRCULATION OPERATIONS Jeeson Kollannur

DIGITAL FEATURES WRITER Mihika Agarwal

CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER Amrit Bardhan FINANCIAL CONTROLLER Rakesh Shetty ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR - PROCUREMENT Veerbhadra Maurya SENIOR ACCOUNTANT Dattaprasanna Bhagwat ACCOUNTANTS Nitin Chavan, Anthony Paulose

DIGITAL FASHION WRITER Yashna Chopra DIGITAL FASHION WRITER Garima Gupta DIGITAL BEAUTY WRITER Avanti Dalal DIGITAL GRAPHIC DESIGNER Bahaar Peshawaria

DIRECTOR - VIDEO COMMERCIAL Harmit Singh Sehmi ASSISTANT MANAGER - PROCUREMENT Anubhuti Sharma

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Sunil Nayak

ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR - COMMERCIAL PLANNING Alisha Goriawala

SENIOR MANAGER - COMMERCIAL PRODUCTION Sudeep Pawar

DIRECTOR - HUMAN RESOURCES Coralie Ansari ASSISTANT MANAGERS - HUMAN RESOURCES Ria Ganguly, Neha Pednekar

PRODUCTION MANAGER Mangesh Pawar SENIOR PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Abhishek Mithbaokar

DIGITAL DIRECTOR Saurabh Garg

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

HEAD - AD OPERATIONS Sachin Pujari SENIOR PROJECT MANAGER - DIGITAL Dipak Raghuwansi TECHNOLOGY PROJECT MANAGER Vishal Ingale DIGITAL GRAPHIC DESIGNER Deep Shikha MANAGER - AD OPERATIONS Vinayak Mehra AD OPERATIONS EXECUTIVE Akanksha Malik

Sheree Gomes Gupta (Copy), Rishna Shah (Watches), Sonal Ved (Food), Priyanka Parkash (Jewellery), Naheed Driver (Shopping), Aarti Virani, Aditi Bhimjyani, Anupama Chopra, Gayatri Rangachari Shah, Geeta Rao, Isheta Salgaocar, Malika Dalamal, Manju Sara Rajan, Nupur Sarvaiya, Pahull Bains, Parizaad Khan Sethi, Rajashree Balaram, Roshni Bajaj Sanghvi, Shalini Shah, Shweta Bachchan Nanda, Sujata Assomull

MANAGERS - DIGITAL MARKETING Priyanka Shivdasani, Akanksha Naik SENIOR MANAGER - DATA & GROWTH Tanvi Randhar ASSISTANT MANAGER - AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT Khushali Gandani ASSISTANT MANAGER - CRM Tanya Chhateja DIRECTOR - VIDEO Anita Horam SENIOR CREATIVE PRODUCER - VIDEO Preshita Saha ASSISTANT CREATIVE PRODUCER Aditya Sinha CREATIVE PRODUCER - FICTION Maharrsh Shah

CONTRIBUTING STYLE EDITOR Anaita Shroff Adajania

EA TO MANAGING DIRECTOR Karen Contractor Avari

ALEX KURUVILLA MANAGING DIRECTOR Condé Nast India Pvt. Ltd.

MUMBAI 2nd Floor, Darabshaw House, Shoorji Vallabhdas Marg, Ballard Estate, Mumbai 400 001, India Tel: +91 22 6611 9000 Fax: +91 22 6611 9001 NEW DELHI Unit No. 503-B, 5th Floor, Salcon Rasvilas, Plot No. D-1, Saket District Centre, New Delhi 110017, India Tel: +91 11 40669000 Fax: +91 11 40669001 RNI No.: MAHENG/2007/22797. Printed and published by Arjun Mehra on behalf of Condé Nast India Pvt. Ltd. Printed at Kala Jyothi Process Pvt Ltd, Survey No. 185, Masjidband, Kondapur Village, R.R. Dist. Hyderabad-500084 and published at 2nd Floor, Darabshaw House, Shoorji Vallabhdas Marg, Ballard Estate, Mumbai 400 001. Editor: Priya Tanna. Distributed by Living Media India Ltd. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is strictly prohibited. All prices are correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change. Manuscripts, drawings and other materials must be accompanied by a stamped addressed envelope. However, Vogue India cannot be responsible for unsolicited material.

22

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

VOGUE.IN

12 Million discerning readers. One destination Connect with over 12 million affluent luxury and lifestyle consumers on Vogue’s digital platforms

DIGITAL REACH

12M+

Website users

6.2M+

Instagram

2.6M+

Facebook

2.4M+ Twitter

1.2M+

GREG SWALES

All figures mentioned above are as on October 2020

THE AUDIENCE:

The affluent lifestyle consumer

THE OPPORTUNITIES:

Display ads, branded content, native stories, social media promotion, video creation, and more... For advertising queries email: [email protected]

Scan the QR code below to get the digital edition

Published By Condé Nast

Chief Executive Officer Roger Lynch Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue Pamela Drucker Mann U.S. Artistic Director and Global Content Advisor Anna Wintour Chief Financial Officer Mike Goss Chief Marketing Officer Deirdre Findlay Chief People Officer Stan Duncan Chief Communications Officer Danielle Carrig Chief of Staff Samantha Morgan Chief Product & Technology Officer Sanjay Bhakta Chief Data Officer Karthic Bala Chief Client Officer Jamie Jouning

Condé Nast Entertainment

President Agnes Chu Executive Vice President–General Manager of Operations Kathryn Friedrich

Chairman Of The Board Jonathan Newhouse

NOV 2020 150

Worldwide Editions

GITA GOPINATH WOMEN of the YEAR 2020

France: AD, AD Collector, GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Collections, Vogue Hommes Germany: AD, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, Vogue India: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue Italy: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, Experience Is, GQ, La Cucina Italiana, L’Uomo Vogue, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired Japan: GQ, Rumor Me, Vogue, Vogue Girl, Vogue Wedding, Wired Mexico and Latin America: AD Mexico and Latin America, Glamour Mexico and Latin America, GQ Mexico and Latin America, Vogue Mexico and Latin America Spain: AD, Condé Nast College Spain, Condé Nast Traveler, Glamour, GQ, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Vogue Niños, Vogue Novias Taiwan: GQ, Vogue United Kingdom: London: HQ, Condé Nast College of Fashion and Design, Vogue Business; Britain: Condé Nast Johansens, Condé Nast Traveller, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, House & Garden, LOVE, Tatler, The World of Interiors, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired United States: Allure, Architectural Digest, Ars Technica, basically, Bon Appétit, Clever, Condé Nast Traveler, epicurious, Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, healthyish, HIVE, La Cucina Italiana, Pitchfork, Self, Teen Vogue, them., The New Yorker, The Scene, Vanity Fair, Vogue, Wired

Published Under Joint Venture

Brazil: Casa Vogue, Glamour, GQ, Vogue Russia: AD, Glamour, Glamour Style Book, GQ, GQ Style, Tatler, Vogue

Published Under License Or Copyright Cooperation

Australia: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Living Bulgaria: Glamour China: AD, Condé Nast Traveler, GQ, GQ Lab, GQ Style, Vogue, Vogue Film, Vogue Me, Vogue Business in China Czech Republic and Slovakia: La Cucina Italiana, Vogue Germany: GQ Bar Berlin Greece: Vogue Hong Kong: Vogue Hungary: Glamour Korea: Allure, GQ, Vogue, Wired Malaysia: Vogue Lounge Kuala Lumpur Middle East: AD, Condé Nast Traveller, GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Riyadh, Wired Poland: Glamour, Vogue Portugal: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Café Porto Romania: Glamour Russia: Vogue Café Moscow Scandinavia: Vogue Serbia: La Cucina Italiana Singapore: Vogue South Africa: Glamour, GQ, GQ Style, House & Garden Thailand: GQ, Vogue The Netherlands: Glamour, Vogue, Vogue Living, Vogue Man, Vogue The Book Turkey: GQ, Vogue, Vogue Restaurant Istanbul Ukraine: Vogue, Vogue Café Kiev Condé Nast is a global media company producing premium content with a footprint of more than 1 billion consumers in 32 markets. condenast.com

CONTRIBUTORS KR SUNIL

Hailing from Kodungallur, Kerala, KR Sunil’s series are often stories of a community, a place or an event narrated through portraits. Vanishing Life Worlds, his portrayal of the ancient harbour town of Ponnani, was exhibited at the Kochi-Muziris Biennale 2016. For this issue, he photographed Kerala’s health minister KK Shailaja. Page 134

G R EG SWA L E S

Inspired by the extremes of beauty, Greg Swales has spent the last decade photographing in some of the most exotic locations. He discovered Indya Moore on Pose and was instantly drawn to her character Angel’s story and beauty. Page 186

M A N J U SA RA RA JA N

Get to know...

Our contributors from the November issue

Manju Sara Rajan travelled to Kannur to interview KK Shailaja for our cover story. She is also co-authoring a book with the Kerala health minister on the state’s public health system and its response to COVID-19. Page 134

H I T H A H E R ZO G

New York-based Hitha Herzog is the chief research officer at H Squared Research LLC and the author of Black Market Billions: How Organized Retail Crime Funds Global Terrorists. Forbes recently named her as one of the most influential South Asian women in the US. For this issue, she delves into the business mind of Priyanka Chopra Jonas. Page 182

38

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

JOHN HUET

John Huet first photographed the IMF’s chief economist Gita Gopinath in his living room on a television screen with his cell phone. When he was later serendipitously commissioned to photograph her for our cover, Huet was eager to capture the essence of Gopinath’s sagacity, her presence and her natural beauty. Page 160

FESTIVE / WINTER 2020 www.labelritukumar.com

CONTRIBUTORS SHEREE GOMES G U PTA

Sheree Gomes Gupta is a contributing editor at Vogue India with over 20 years of experience in journalism and has worked at several publications. For the cover story, she interviewed the incredible and inspiring India women’s national field hockey team. Page 144

A D I T I D EO

With over 23 years of experience as a professional artist, art teacher and calligrapher, Aditi Deo takes us on a visual trip via fragrances. Page 128

J O R DA N WA LC Z A K

H A RS H A VA D L A M A N I

When not documenting systemic issues across India, Harsha Vadlamani enjoys portraiture. His work has appeared in The New York Times Magazine, The Wall Street Journal, Al Jazeera and the Financial Times, among other publications. For this edition, he photographed Rema Rajeshwari, a police officer in Telangana. Page 141

Brooklyn-based Jordan Walczak has always had a strong interest in photography. With fashion editorials, he tries to create interesting environments that are special and unique to each story. For this issue, he shot debut novelist Megha Majumdar in New York. Page 172

Radhika Iyengar is an award-winning journalist who is currently writing her first non-fiction book. In this issue, she interviews Sohrab Hura, one of India’s leading contemporary photographers. Page 208

40

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

SHELLEY HEPWORTH

RA D H I K A IYENGAR

Autumn | Winter 2020 www.ritukumar.com

ri.ritukumar.com

AN UNUSUAL YEAR, CALLS FOR UNUSUAL HEROES WHEN: 27TH-29TH NOVEMBER WHERE:

WATCH THIS SPACE FOR MORE

S P E C I A L

E D I T I O N

April seems like a lifetime ago, but it was the month that charted the year ahead. It was a time of uncertainty, when an unknown virus made us ill-equipped to step outside our homes. But the world moved on, powered by a life-affirming galaxy of rock stars who were unafraid to lead us through a crisis. Back then, their resilience, dedication and kindness inspired our Vogue Warriors series, which celebrated women fighting COVID-19 on the front lines as well as behind the scenes. And though the campaign ended in May, these women continued to inspire us. So when we began planning our annual Vogue Women Of The Year (WOTY) awards, a show that brings together achievers for a night of glamour and excellence, it was no surprise that we wanted this roster of women. And while their incredible work warrants recognition, our #VogueWOTY2020 winners surprised us with a trait they have in common—selflessness. From a nurse who played a pivotal role in the recovery of two of India’s oldest COVID-19 patients to a pilot and a doctor who didn’t think twice about answering the call of duty, their selflessness made their achievements more than personal accolades. Like these winners, our three covers are representative of the times too. First is Kerala’s health minister KK Shailaja, a woman of action, whose timely response to the pandemic has made her a legend not just for her state, but for the world to follow. Second, is the India women’s national field hockey team, whose players raised 20 lakh for stranded migrant workers. And finally, Gita Gopinath, the first woman chief economist at the International Monetary Fund, who looks radiant in her suit even as she prepares to fight a global recession larger than the Great Depression. Of course, for most readers, Vogue India is (and has always been) a fashion bible. This issue is no different. Between the pages, you will find creatives like our digital cover star, the actor-activist Indya Moore, the infinitely talented Silvia Fendi, and the fabulous-at-forty Claudia Schiffer, who are all breaking boundaries in fashion, design and beyond. Then there are our other winners—from Alexander McQueen’s Sarah Burton and Biocon’s Kiran Mazumdar Shaw to actors Priyanka Chopra Jonas and Vidya Balan, musicians Dua Lipa and Camila Cabello, and our favourite sustainability activist Dia Mirza—all driven to use their superpowers to help make this world a better place. They are icons because they use their popularity and platforms to effect change in their industries. And in this dark time, they remain our hope, and part of what makes #VogueWOTY2020 special. This year, we tear down our invitation-only format for a more democratic, digital experience. Join me in celebrating the lives of these women on Vogue India’s Instagram, Facebook and YouTube channels between November 27 and 29 for three days of inspiration, individuality and innovation. Everyone’s invited.

GREG SWALES

EDITOR’S LETTER

FOLLOW ME ON TWITTER @PRIYATANNA AND INSTAGRAM @PRIYA_TANNA OR EMAIL ME AT [email protected]

46

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

AHMEDABAD | DELHI | HYDERABAD | MUMBAI | LOS ANGELES

SKY CHIEF CHRONOGRAPH

Available at select Helios outlets - 080 480 33360

LOV

HERMÈS

CHARLES NÈGRE. PRODUCTION: MORGANE BEDEL. SET DESIGN: OLIVIA AINE

WHAT W

Walk of fame The classic combination of black satin and gold chain-link lends high glamour to Hermès’s new must-have shoe. The jewelled heel in handworked metal is inspired by the label’s iconic Chaîne d’ancre motif. A timeless buy that’s perfect for all kinds of special occasions www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 49

IN CONVERSATION WITH NEETA LULLA WHAT WAS IT LIKE WORKING WITH MASTERCARD TO CURATE THIS EXCLUSIVE FESTIVE COLLECTION? It has given me immense pleasure to associate with Mastercard on this project and I am thrilled to work so closely with a brand that is so trusted and celebrated in India. This association has helped me create a new niche product range for a segment that not only believes that quality precedes everything but is also digital first. MASTERCARD IS SYNONYMOUS WITH LUXURY AND EXCLUSIVITY. IS YOUR COLLECTION INSPIRED BY THE SAME PRINCIPLES? My brand philosophy has always resonated with what Mastercard stands for. The Mastercard consumer is the well-heeled, well-traveled Indian who understands quality and fashion. Secondly like Mastercard, that focuses not on the transactional aspects of life but on the emotional payoff, even for us our clothes are important not by themselves but how they make people feel. HOW WOULD YOU BEST DESCRIBE YOUR COLLECTION? My collection celebrates the deeply rooted yet confident Indian woman who is fierce in her choices and determined in her approach. It’s my label’s way of celebrating the feminine mystique—her exuberance and grace.

A PRICELESS EXPERIENCE

To curate bespoke experiences this season for its discerning World Elite Cardholders, Mastercard has partnered with reputed Indian designers Neeta Lulla and Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla for an exclusive luxury festive line that offers a host of premium benefits Neeta Lulla

This year has been a challenging one that has seen us face innumerable setbacks. But now, with the festive season in full swing, there are glimmers of hope and the anticipation of a brighter future on the horizon. To spread some festive cheer, global brand Mastercard has partnered with top Indian design talents—Neeta Lulla and Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla—to launch a special luxury festive line that will offer its World Elite Cardholders uber-premium, Priceless™ Experiences. Known for their inimitable designs that flaunt exquisite craftsmanship, both fashion labels have set tough-to-rival benchmarks in Indian couture. For this first-of-its-kind collaboration, the designers have curated an exclusive luxury festive collection, available for purchase on their online and physical stores. Mastercard World Elite cardholders who place a premium on sterling value and distinguished lifestyles, will be able to avail a range of exclusive services such as discounts of up to 30 per cent on the designers’ existing collections, available both online and in store. What’s more, they will also be privy to styling masterclasses and personal consultation sessions. The best part? Mastercard World Elite cardholders will be able to access all of these special benefits virtually, from the safety and comfort of their homes. We catch up with designers Neeta Lulla and Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla to learn more about their festive collaborations with Mastercard....

WHAT, ACCORDING TO YOU, IS THE EPITOME OF LUXURY AS FAR AS ETHNIC INDIAN ENSEMBLES ARE CONCERNED? For me, the epitome of luxury is to feel confident and comfortable in whatever you wear while still staying true to your style. It’s all about celebrating the real, authentic you. For an Indian woman, this would mean standing out in a sea of little black dresses by wearing a classic six-yard sari and defining your Indian enigma. WHAT DO YOU THINK MAKES FOR A PRICELESS EXPERIENCE? For me, a priceless experience is the sheer joy that I see in the sparkling eyes of my consumer. It is the sense of contentment and happiness I feel when I see my client wear his/her dream outfit. As Indians, we have always embraced bespoke luxury. I think to create a customised experience, just for the client, is priceless. To sit down and design something based on one’s personality, body type and personal liking is truly special and defines the luxury fashion experience. For more information, visit Neetalulla.com or follow @Neetalulla on Facebook and @houseofneetalulla and @neeta_lulla on Instagram

In conversation with Manasi Narasimhan, VP, Marketing, Mastercard, South Asia How important is it for you as a brand to offer your clients experiences that are one-of-a-kind? While the pandemic has changed a lot of things, there is one thing about human behaviour that stays constant—we strive for experiences, creating, and reliving memories. So, keeping the current times in mind, Mastercard is focussing on creating Priceless™ Experiences that will uplift the consumer sentiment, revive spending, especially in the affluent segment, even as people stay safe at their home.

Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla

IN CONVERSATION WITH ABU JANI AND SANDEEP KHOSLA HOW WOULD YOU BEST DESCRIBE THE ENSEMBLES FROM THIS EXCLUSIVE COLLECTION? Elegant, vibrant and every bit an Abu Sandeep. We have revisited our symbolic techniques to create four exclusive ranges in our curated collection with Mastercard. We take you from Diwali pujas and taash parties to soirees and weddings. We have diverse outfits offering layers of glamour for every mood and occasion. WHAT IS IT ABOUT MASTERCARD THAT GOT YOU EXCITED ABOUT THIS COLLABORATION? Amidst a year of more gloom than glamour, we’ve had to redefine what customer service means. Thanks to our shared values and beliefs with Mastercard, we have created an exclusive collection, via our label Asal, that promises to captivate Mastercard’s clients. WHAT ARE THE EXCLUSIVE BENEFITS THAT MASTERCARD CARDHOLDERS CAN EXPECT WHEN THEY CHOOSE TO

BUY OUTFITS FROM YOUR COLLECTION? For the first time ever, Asal has gone online and will only be available for purchase by Mastercard’s World Elite cardholders. Further, each ensemble in our curated collection is literally one of a kind. That’s not all. Mastercard’s clients can also avail special offers on all the ensembles at our Asal by Abu Sandeep stores across India. HOW DO YOU ADD A TOUCH OF EXCLUSIVITY AND LUXURY TO ALL YOUR ENSEMBLES? We remain true to our legacy, which champions the finest craftsmanship, iconic designs and relentless client servicing at elevated standards. HOW HAVE DIGITAL CONSULTATIONS AND INTERACTIONS EVOLVED IN THE LUXURY FASHION SPACE? The easy answer? Zoom and WhatsApp. The reality? Weaving happiness from a distance.

For more information, visit Asal.co.in or follow @AsalAbuSandeep on Facebook and @asalabusandeep on Instagram

What is it about Abu Jani, Sandeep Khosla and Neeta Lulla that made you collaborate with them? Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla have a great understanding of the Indian luxury market, affluent customer segment, and their everevolving aspirations. Neeta is a standard in herself for Indian ethnic wear. So, her collection is ideally suited for the festive season, especially Diwali. So, Mastercard’s collaboration with them creates a distinct Priceless™ Experience for Mastercard World Elite cardholders to celebrate the upcoming season. How is ‘The World Elite Program’ different from other Mastercard programs? The World Elite program is Mastercard’s signature global program that offers the choicest benefits to HNI cardholders across their passion points—travel, culinary, shopping, sports, entertainment, and arts and culture. It’s a gateway to a world of privileges that can help cardholders create, live, and cherish life's most memorable moments. In India, these unique experiences are exclusively offered to cardholders of all banks who are currently issuing World Elite cards i.e. Citibank, IndusInd Bank and Yes Bank.

For more information, follow @MastercardIndia on Facebook and Instagram

LOVES S T Y L E

IC ON

Princess Diana was always ahead of her time. A walk down memory lane is all the evidence you need

RODARTE

< A polka-dotted summer dress stands the test of time. It was elegant then and continues to be so now.

CU LT UR E C ALEN DAR Watch: Catch Ron Howard’s Hillbilly Elegy, a tearjerker based on a memoir about a family in crisis, starring Glenn Close and Amy Adams. Netflix.com Play: Love game nights? Update yours with the fastest next-gen console, the Xbox Series X. Xbox.com Bid: The late Oscar-winning costume designer Bhanu Athaiya’s estate of artworks, fashion sketches and costumes will be on auction by Prinseps Auction House. Prinseps.com

Diana, Princess of Wales, in Kyoto wearing a polka- dotted dress by Tatters (1986)

N O

Diana, Princess Of Wales, in London wearing a suit by Chanel (1997)

BL UE- JE AN CHANEL

> Princess Diana makes a case for the timeless Chanel pastel skirt-suit.

BABY

Our denim days may be behind us, but our stay-home, staycool wardrobes also need a refresher. A quick saviour? Vintage, paint-splattered, party-ready, and upcycled jeans

K ID D IN G

Throwing it back to the aughts

Sherbache: A breathable and environmentally friendly kids wear brand inspired by vintage Victorian designs and the sheer opulence of India. What’s not to love? @sherbache.in 52

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

J BRAND X HALPERN

Piccolo Piglet: Thoughtfully created handmade gender-neutral clothing crafted with love. Piccolo Piglet is one step closer to a more inclusive world, helping break the binary in your little one’s closet. @piccolopiglet

For an era where putting on a pair of jeans equals dressing up

E.L.V. DENIM

A screen-printed pair is the new wave of denim

Do-good denim that is zero-waste and upcycled

COURTESY PRINSEPS; GETTY IMAGES; INDIGITAL MEDIA

TU ES MON TRÉSOR

MuuYee Journal: With whimsical prints and gender-neutral shirts, MuuYee (which translates to ‘ant’ in Konkani), makes clothes from natural fibres, making it the perfect brand for your children. @muuyeejournal

IGGY JEANS X RODEBJER

Three home-grown clothing brands for your little ones

MICHAEL KORS CELEBRATES INDIA

‘Heritage’ Hoodie, Mad Happy, 13,600

LOVES

LABEL CR USH: MAD HAPPY

‘Universal’ hoodie Mad Happy, 14,600

‘Universal’ sweatpants, Mad Happy, 14,500

Why? Who doesn’t need a dose of optimism, especially when it comes in comfy loungewear that’s perfect for evenings indoors with your social bubble accentuated by pair of Zoom-appropriate hoops What? The Los Angeles-based mission-driven streetwear, loungewear and staples brand counts inclusivity and optimism among its core values

Dua Lipa

B O OK

CL UB

Add crushed seaweed to up your nut mix

Three must-reads by extraordinary women

Olympic gold medalist Megan Rapinoe’s call to action, One Life (Penguin Random House)

Novelist par excellence Margaret Atwood’s first poetry collection, Dearly (Ecco)

Toss 1 cup nuts (walnuts, cashews, almonds), 1/2 cup sesame seeds, 2 tbsp honey, 1 tbsp olive oil, a pinch of red pepper flakes and 3/4 tsp kosher salt in a bowl. Slide onto a rimmed baking sheet and bake at 180°C, until nuts are golden brown (20 to 25 minutes). Meanwhile, crush two toasted nori sheets in a spice mill. When the nuts are done, toss with nori and let cool. Store in an airtight container for whenever you need it most (i.e. every day at 3pm). —Sarah Jampel

Ma Anand Sheela’s tell-all memoir, By My Own Rules (Penguin Random House)

BUMP

I T

UP

From a leather co-ord set to polka dots, Bollywood actor Anushka Sharma and fashion entrepreneur Pernille Teisbaek lead the way in maternity style. Here are four things we’ve learnt from these ladies

1

POLKA DOTS If you have a sheer ruffled polka-dotted black minidress, then you don’t need anything else at all. Wear it as is.

54

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

2

A CROPPED JUMPER Comfort dressing gets a lift with everyone’s favourite lockdown trend: tie-dye.

3

LEATHER CO-ORD Who said leather is not for the bump. Wear an oversized shirt with matching Bermuda shorts, but make sure it’s all pastel.

4

RIBBED MAXI A ribbed maxi is a great investment to take you through your pregnancy. A touch of gold jewellery will make the look datenight appropriate.

EMMA FISHMAN. COURTESY @DUALIPA/INSTAGRAM; @ANUSHKASHARMA/INSTAGRAM; @PERNILLETEISBAEK/INSTAGRAM

A SPI CY- SWE ET N OR I NU T MIX

skagen.com | @skagendenmark | #mySKAGEN | HOLST SKW2920

FOR THE LOVE OF FOOD

Raise a toast to brighter, more hopeful times ahead by indulging in an authentic in-restaurant dining experience with Marriott International. Choose from a selection of all-day restaurants and cafes across the brand’s properties in Mumbai, New Delhi, Bengaluru, and Hyderabad, and get ready to be whisked away on a culinary adventure bursting with flavour and fun

S

uffice to say that 2020 has been a challenging year. But, admit it—being cooped up at home for months on end has only reminded us of our love for two of life’s greatest joys— travel and food. There’s nothing quite like the feeling of gathering around a table with your loved ones and celebrating togetherness over a lavish spread. And no better time than now, with the country opening up and festive cheer and holiday spirit filling the air, infusing it with renewed hope and optimism. Now, with hotels and dining venues reopening across the

country, Marriott International invites you to relive a traditional in-restaurant fine dining experience in stylish yet sanitised environments across its properties in Mumbai, New Delhi, Bengaluru, and Hyderabad. So, get ready to be wined and dined, Marriott style! As the group’s all-day restaurants across the country’s four main metro cities ready themselves to welcome you once again, with best-in-class safety measures in place, it’s time to load up your plates and clink your glasses together in anticipation of brighter times ahead.

MUM B AI

Whether you’re a Mumbai resident looking to indulge in a fine dining experience like no other or if you simply happen to be in the city for work or leisure, treat your palate to the city’s many vibrant, intense flavours at Marriott International’s all-day dining venues. Relish everything from refreshing, bountiful breakfast spreads and elaborate lunches to lavish dinners that promise to tease your taste buds with a blend of exotic flavours. Regardless of whether you’re a fan of authentic Indian preparations or prefer Oriental and Japanese fare, rest assured you will be in for a delightful culinary journey at Marriott’s all-day dining venues across its Mumbai brands—JW Marriott, The Westin, The St. Regis, Courtyard by Marriott, Marriott Executive Apartments, and Renaissance. What’s more, the cosy interiors, animated atmosphere, and blissful views, along with add-ons like live cooking stations, only serve to enhance the experience and make it a truly memorable one. Image Courtesy: Courtyard by Marriott Bengaluru ORR

Image Courtesy: Courtyard by Marriott Bengaluru ORR

NE W D E LH I

You know what they say—variety truly is the spice of life. And nowhere is this more apparent than in the country’s capital, which is renowned for being one of the most gastronomically diverse cities in India. So, if you happen to be in New Delhi with your family for a short holiday, make a beeline for Marriott International’s all-day restaurants that offer up indulgent servings of the best the culinary world has to offer. Relish Asian, Indian, and Mediterranean fare bursting with flavour by choosing between buffet and à la carte menu options. Or, nosh on light bites that have been inspired by the coolest, most unconventional global food trends. Complete with open kitchens, live cooking stations, and even live juice bars, the all-day dining venues at Marriott International’s brands in New Delhi—including JW Marriott, Courtyard by Marriott, The Westin, and Le Méridien—promise to excite and indulge your palate, in equal measure.

B ENGA LUR U

India’s Garden City is celebrated for a number of things, but, if we’re being honest, its food scene isn’t given the recognition it rightly deserves. Contrary to popular opinion, Bengaluru isn’t defined solely by its South Indian culinary preparations. There is so much more in store—and, if you seek, you shall find an array of delightful dining experiences across the all-day restaurants and cafes at Marriott International’s Bengaluru brands that span Aloft, Marriott Hotels,

Courtyard by Marriott, Fairfield by Marriott, Four Points by Sheraton, JW Marriott, Sheraton Grand, Renaissance, and The Ritz-Carlton. Savour locally inspired fare that champions fresh indigenous ingredients, carefully balanced flavours, and simple culinary techniques, or feast on delectable Asian fare whipped up at live cooking stations—the choice is yours. Special weekend à la carte menus along with an exclusive chef’s table experience add to the fun quotient while keeping things interesting.

JW Marriott Bengaluru

HY DE RA BA D

Travelling to Hyderabad for a quick getaway with friends and family? Make the most of your time here by treating yourself and your loved ones to a delightful gastronomic experience that goes beyond platefuls of biryani. Marriott International’s Hyderabad brands—Courtyard by Marriott, Marriott Hotels, Sheraton, The Westin, Marriott Executive Apartments, and Le Méridien—serve up some of the most inviting and exciting culinary adventures at their all-day dining venues. Think a quintessential buffet experience that features an intriguing mix of traditional local fare, international favourites, and SuperFoodsRx foods along with tempting à la carte meals spanning a variety of international cuisines, prepared using only the freshest ingredients. That’s not all. Expect fun themed brunches on weekends that promise to liven up your Saturdays and Sundays. Take it from us: they’re the perfect way to bond with those closest to you. Image Courtesy: Courtyard by Marriott Bengaluru ORR

A S E RV I NG O F SA F E T Y

Recognising the importance of safety in today’s climate, Marriott International has put in place key safety and sanitation measures across its properties’ restaurants. These include: • Reduced seating capacities, with spacing between tables increased to ensure physical distancing rules are adhered to • Strictly contactless menus and payment options to minimise the need for faceto-face interaction • Protective gear, including masks and gloves, donned by associates at all points in time to live up to expected hygiene standards

LOVES 2 Personalisable toggle bracelet, Isharya, 3,499; ‘Dancing Matsya’ charm, Isharya, 2,499

1

DR EST :G AME

Former Net-a-Porter editor Lucy Yeoman’s newly created app Drest is making us play dollhouse once again. Users can dress virtual avatars in styling challenges and buy the physical version on Farfetch, featuring brands like Prada, Gucci, Valentino and Burberry

SPE L L IT OU T 1. Hong Kong- and Jakartabased Zaina Jewels, started by Vineyka Kewalramani in 2010, is all about personalisation. Its signature ‘Nomina’ ring found a fan in Masaba Gupta, who wore her rose gold and diamond version in pretty much every frame in Masaba Masaba. Each piece takes three weeks to craft and can spell out any name close to your heart. @zainajewels 2. When the pandemic hit, Gauri and Radhika Tandon, the co-founders of Isharya, decided to scrap the collection they had planned and go back to the drawing board. The final result? Legacy Then and N.O.W (Name it, Own it, Werk it), the third in a customised and personalised series composed of 18 talismanic charms used to craft a bespoke piece. We could all use some good vibes right now. @isharya Give your pantry staples a coconutfuelled makeover

O N

R AI SI NG

HO PE

A new children’s book by Twinkle Khanna’s Tweak has role models for every girl Shafali Verma: This Sachin Tendulkar fan ended up breaking the cricketer’s record at age 15 when she became the youngest player in the world to score an international 50 against the West Indies.

Saalumarada Thimmakka: This 108-year-old grandma from Karnataka is our very own Greta Thunberg, just nine decades older. The Padma Shri-winning eco champ has planted over 385 banyan trees on a stretch of road.

Susmita Mohanty: The achievements of this Indian spaceship designer and CEO of Earth2Orbit are out of this world. Using space technology to monitor climate change, her impressive work has earned her a place among the world’s most influential women today.

When I Grow Up I Want To Be… is available on Juggernaut Books

EXT EN DED

C O C O NUT

MIL K

F AMI LY

COCONUT MILK YOGHURT: The non-dairy yoghurt of the moment varies in tartness from brand to brand. KAYA: This coconut jam is sweet and custardy, thanks to egg yolks and sugar. Spread it on toast for a classic Malaysian breakfast or use it as the centrepiece in your next batch of Linzer cookies. COCONUT BUTTER: Also called coconut manna, this smooth condiment (blended coconut flesh, hold the water) is a coconut lover’s peanut butter substitute. Plop it into smoothies and oatmeal or frost it on cupcakes. —Alex Beggs 58

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

‘Nomina’ diamond set in 18K gold ring, Zaina Jewels, price on request

EXCLUSIVELY AVAILABLE AT

Dehradun

www.mercidehradun.com

@merci_dehradun

+91 7253 000 289

ARCHITECTURAL DIGEST.IN 1M+ design connoisseurs. 1 destination.

Connect with over a million art and design enthusiasts only on our digital platforms.

DIGITAL REACH 1.8M+ Website Users 1.1M+ Instagram 347K+ Facebook 364K+ Twitter 9.9K+

THE AUDIENCE: THE LUXURY DESIGN CONSUMER Curious design enthusiasts seeking inspiration and unparalleled access to the most inspiring homes in the world

THE OPPORTUNITIES: Display Ads, carousels, native stories, microsites, videos, social media posts and more For advertising queries please contact - [email protected]

MASSIMO LISTRI

All figures mentioned above are as of October 2020

PHOTOGRAPHED BY PAUL SCALA; STYLED BY FABIO IMMEDIATO; HAIR: CHRIS SWEENEY/ONE REPRESENTS; MAKEUP: LIZ PUGH/PREMIER HAIR AND MAKE-UP; MODEL: NOUR RIZK/MODELS 1; CASTING: MEGAN MCCLUSKIE; PRODUCTION: RSA PHOTOGRAPHIC; BOOKINGS EDITOR: JAY MODI

EDITED BY PRIYANKA KAPADIA

Turtleneck sweater, sequin skirt, necklace; all Givenchy

THE HOME EDIT R E P O R T

Party chez vous Liquid metal, dresses that touch toes, tiered tops, XXL sleeves, and the clavicle as your sweetest spot—this is the wardrobe for postpandemic party planning

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 63

THE HUE Silver done six ways

1

SILVER + BLACK

If glamour and grit were a colour combination

FALGUNI SHANE PEACOCK

2

TREND

INDIGITAL MEDIA

‘LV Trophy’ bag, Louis Vuitton, price on request

1

Wool cardigan, Christopher Kane, 79,150

64

5

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

PAUL & JOE

Cosy it up with cashmere

MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION

WINTER SILVER

SILVER + WHITE

Cut through the shine of silver with an invigorating white shirt

Swap the sari blouse for modern armour

4

CHERIE D

A little shimmer. A little shine. Everything is fine

SILVER ON TOP

3

THE CRYSTAL LEHENGA

3

Patent leather, sequin and jersey bodysuit, Gucci, 73,400

Sequinembellished halter top, The Attico, 68,200 BURBERRY

CHRISTIAN SIRIANO

6

1. Lamé minidress, Isabel Marant, 83,920 2. Hoop earrings, Alexander McQueen, 60,000 3. Crystalembellished mesh sandals, René Caovilla, 1,17,000

THE METAL DRESS

Retire the little black dress for a scintillating silver one

2

A SHOWERING OF SPARKLES

To commemorate 125 glorious years, Swarovski has joined hands with Indian actor and social activist Bhumi Pednekar to launch #CelebrateTheSparkle—a first-of-its-kind campaign to get you to celebrate the Festival of Lights through the launch of a specially curated Diwali collection which features an array of resplendent jewels. In an exclusive interview, Pednekar talks about her association with the brand and reveals what makes this collection perfect for Diwali celebrations TELL US ABOUT YOUR ASSOCIATION WITH SWAROVSKI. I have been wearing Swarovski since I was a young girl. The first ever slightly luxurious gift my parents gave me and my sister were the iconic silicon Swarovski bands. Following which, in class 10, my aunt gifted me a Swarovski bracelet. What I love most about the brand is that it has an offering for every age and occasion. For me, Swarovski represents class, timelessness, and elegance. HOW DOES IT FEEL TO BE THE FIRST EVER FRIEND OF SWAROVSKI, PARTICULARLY DURING DIWALI? It is an honor. After all, Swarovski is a brand with such a rich heritage. I see Diwali as an occasion for togetherness and celebration. And the Diwali collection by Swarovski is a beautiful mix of contemporary and understated pieces that one can easily mix

and match. The campaign is about us playing our part to motivate everyone to celebrate, love, and indulge themselves as well as their friends and family. HOW HAS THIS YEAR AFFECTED YOU, ON BOTH PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL FRONTS? I think it has pretty much been the same for everyone. The break was great, but it has come at a cost. We all are trying to be positive. Work has been delayed to a great extent, but we have tried to do whatever we can to sail through this. That said, this has also been a period of self-discovery and spending time with family. In many ways, it has been a mental cleanse. I think what’s most important is to ensure that people around us are safe, and so, we should be responsible and take every precaution possible.

DO YOU HAVE A PERSONAL FAVOURITE ITEM FROM SWAROVSKI’S DIWALI COLLECTION? I am in love with the Tennis Deluxe choker! I can totally picture pairing it with a little black dress or even a sari. I also love some of the rings because they are so versatile and modern. WHAT IS YOUR DIWALI MESSAGE TO ALL THE MODERN WOMEN WHO ARE BREAKING STEREOTYPES? I think the idea is to strike a balance between the traditional and modern. Our quintessential modern woman has changed dramatically over the years. She is independent, loves herself, is kind and ambitious, and lives life on her terms...which is exactly what Swarovski’s Diwali collection symbolises. I think that breaking stereotypes and bringing about any kind of change within your ecosystem is very important. That’s the only way society will evolve. It is also essential to show compassion, to coexist with nature, and to stand up for your rights. And I see the modern Indian woman doing all of that.

Discover the Swarovski Diwali Collection at a Swarovski store near you and on Myntra or Tata CLiQ Luxury

TREND

3

NAMRATA JOSHIPURA

BURBERRY

1

4

2

66

The anklet shoe

WEAR WITH

‘Bond Girl 105’ pumps, Aquazzura, 73,500

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

VALENTINO

1. Satin crepe column gown, Alex Perry, 1,90,500 2. Sequined dress, Bottega Veneta, 5,60,500 3. Crystal dress, Alessandra Rich, 1,40,300 4. Sequinned jersey dress, David Koma, 1,13,400

Chainembellished leather sandals, Porte & Paire, 28,300

‘The Wondering Traveller’ sandals, Alighieri, 23,850

Woven ‘Olivia’ pumps, Brother Vellies, 58,300

‘Cierra’ pumps, Schutz, 10,000

GREG SWALES; INDIGITAL MEDIA

Column dresses are flattering for those who have been glamorously resting

CELINE

TOM FORD

THE HERO PIECE

1

THE DETAIL For any socially distanced occasion, these cascading ruffles will ensure you have the licence to frill

2

GUCCI

PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINI

3

CAROLINA HERRERA

4

RIDHI MEHRA

1. Chiffon shirt, Alberta Ferretti, 1,64,800 2. Taffeta dress, Red Valentino, 37,555 3. ‘Lucky’ tiered dress, Zimmermann, 1,42,800 4. Leather shoes, Wandler, 34,000 5. Leather bag, Chanel, price on request

ULLA JHONSHON

5

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 67

1

THE JODI LIFE

3

PM

ROKSANDA

4

2

The focus is on a different kind of arm candy—balloon sleeves that work for day and night

HEMANT AND NANDITA

5

AM 7

68

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

3. Taffeta jacquard dress, Alexander McQueen, 13,35,500 4. Metallic blouse, Rasario, 1,11,300 5. Crêpe de chine romper, Fendi, 2,33,700 6. ‘Power’ dress, April & Alex, 40,000 7. Satin and velvet blouse, Rosie Assoulin, 1,24,000

BIKRAMJIT BOSE; INDIGITAL MEDIA

RODARTE

6

MANISH MALHOTRA

1. Wrap minidress, Valentino, 1,81,000 2. Satin jacquard blouse, The Attico, 85,400

THE SILHOUETTE

TREND

THE NECKLINE All eyes are on the clavicle. Show it off in cut-out dresses 4

3

1

1. Jersey dress, Dolce & Gabbana, 2,15,700 2. Faux leather dress, Jonathan Simkhai, 65,500 3. Satin blouse, Helmut Lang, 37,300 4. Crystal-embellished gown, Christopher Esber, 1,96,800 5. J’Adior multi chain earrings, Dior, price on request 6. ‘Whispers Of The Valley’ diamonds set in white gold earrings, Zoya - A Tata Product, price on request 7. FF-logo crystal fringe earrings, Fendi, 54,150

Shoulder grazers

6

WEAR WITH

PROENZA SCHOULER

SELF-PORTRAIT

GAURAV GUPTA

BALMAIN

TARUN TAHILIANI

2

5

7

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 69

A CELEBRATION OF FESTIVE FASHION

This season, step up your fashion game with Myntra Insider Masterclass—a series of masterclasses created in collaboration with Vogue that brings nine of India’s most celebrated stylists together to help you revamp your wardrobe. Here, leading celebrity stylists Tanya Ghavri and Lakshmi Lehr break down 12 glamorous and uber-chic looks that you should be rocking at this year’s festivities TANYA GHAVRI: A FABULOUSLY FESTIVE AFFAIR Tone on tone, if done right, can make for a killer look! Take this outfit, for example. The deep maroon colour makes it perfect for evening wear, while the slightly shorter length of kurta pairs fabulously with Jodhpuri pants instead of the predictable churidar. Ditch juttis and kolhapuris and choose a pair of nicely buffed black leather shoes instead.

Men, this festive season, challenge stereotypes by experimenting with your look. Layer a white slim-fit silk kurta with a light pink floral-printed Nehru jacket and team it up with a churidar. The gold cuffs on the kurta add a touch of glamour, while the hint of pink lends a classy touch to the ensemble. Complete the look with a pair of juttis.

TANYA’S TIP: “If you’re looking for festive attire that isn’t fussy and doesn’t weigh you down, my vote definitely goes to the sharara. You can pair it with an embellished knotted bralette and layer it with a long traditional coat. And there you go! It’s as festive as it gets. Not so much fuss, and plenty of drama.”

Celebrate this season’s festivities in style with a gorgeous flared skirt made from Banarasi brocade and pair it with a thread embroidered sleeveless gold blouse and matching sheer gold dupatta. Finish the look with chunky chandbali earrings and nude stilettos.

There’s nothing quite like a beautiful sari; but, this season, Tanya suggests giving your saris a chic twist. Pair this lovely neutralhued grey silk sari that flaunts a sleek gold embroidered border with a bright yellow thread embroidered boat-neck blouse and round off the look with some striking kundan jewellery. For this year’s festivities, consider this long cowl satin-silk kurta and churidar ensemble. The fluid fabric lends a lovely fall to the kurta and the monotone churidar helps accentuate it. Slip into tan leather moccasins and strap on a classy silver watch, and you’ve got yourself a winning look.

This festive season, choose to flaunt a simple ensemble with a standout element. Just like this monotone delicately-embroidered kurta that’s been paired with straight cropped pants of the same colour and a wildly colourful Patola dupatta. Metallic silver stilettos and chunky silver earrings make for great accessory additions.

LAKSHMI LEHR: A GHARWALI DIWALI PARTY LAKSHMI’S TIP: “For makeup, choose golden dewy hues, popcoloured lips, cold eyes, and a bindi for an Indian touch. In terms of accessories, chandbalis look great with a simple sari. Or, you could opt for a bigger maangtika. Skip heavy jewellery if you’re going to wear a blingy look...or just stick to small earrings and add bangles.”

Chikankari has been a mainstay in occasion wear for both men and women. This Diwali, it doesn’t get more festive than this traditional pastel Lucknowi work of art—a soft sea-green delicately embroidered kurta complemented with an off-white churidar and accessorised with beige jute sandals.

Switch up your style game this Diwali and rock this ubercool look that teams trendy half-chinos half-joggers with a plain white tee layered with a simple, cosy navy cardigan. A pair of funky ankle-top sneakers nails the easygoing, laidback vibe, in style.

This Diwali, go for something bold yet comfortable that makes a statement like this luxurious silksatin co-ord set in a dreamy sleepy blue hue. It flaunts flared pyjama bottoms and an oversized flowy button-down shirt. Style this breezy look with nude heels and some elegant minimal jewellery.

This unconventional Diwali look sees palazzo pants paired with an ivory coloured high-slit kurta that flaunts fine gold thread embroidery work. Even better, the cut-out shoulder detailing on the kurta ensures that the look works well even without a dupatta. Chandbali earrings and gold open-toed stilettos complement the look perfectly.

A fail-proof classic white kurta-pyjama set is a must-have in every man’s Diwali wardrobe. For this year’s festival of lights, layer this well-fitted kurta with a printed blue and grey Nehru jacket and add a hint of sparkle to it with a classy pocket square. Instead of the predictable juttis, go for brown leather moccasins.

Have fun with the sari this Diwali and go for this ruffled georgette number in a rich maroon hue. Take the look up a notch by cinching it at the waist with a sash belt instead of a kamarbandh to accentuate your curves and team it up with a bronze deepneck blouse. Keep the festive vibe intact with gold earrings and bangles and complete the look with opentoed stilettos.

WATCHES THE HOME EDIT 1

Off limits

8

It’s hard to get your hands on these coveted pieces

5

2

9

6

10

1. ‘Tradition Automatique Seconde Retrograde 7097’ watch, Breguet (limited production for Breguet boutiques only) 2. ‘RM 11-05 Automatic Flyback Chronograph GMT’ watch, Richard Mille (140 pieces only) 3. ‘Big Pilot’s Watch Big Date Spitfire Edition “Mission Accomplished’’’ watch, IWC Schaffhausen (500 pieces only) 4. ‘True Thinline Toge Ayako Suwa’ watch, Rado (1,001 pieces only) 5. ‘Arceau Into The Canadian Wild’ watch, Hermès (24 pieces only) 6. ‘Code 11.59 Selfwinding Bolshoi’ watch, Audemars Piguet (99 pieces only) 7. ‘L.U.C XP II Sarto Kiton’ watch, Chopard (100 pieces only) 8. ‘Ronde Louis Cartier Straw and Gold Marquetry’ watch, Cartier (30 pieces only) 9. ‘Mademoiselle Privé Bouton Byzantine’ watch, Chanel (5 pieces only) 10. ‘Luminor Marina Carbotech’ watch, Panerai (270 pieces only)

7

4 74

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

DIEGO FUGA; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

3

EDUCATIONIST EXTRAORDINAIRE President of Whistling Woods International—Asia’s largest film, communication, and creative arts institute—Meghna Ghai-Puri is every bit a self-made woman. Through determination and sheer force of will, she has established the institute as a force to be reckoned with. Vogue chats with the film school pioneer to learn more about her passion for education and filmmaking What prompted you to forgo the opportunity to take over the reins at Mukta Arts in favour of spearheading Whistling Woods International (WWI)? I agree that education is a very different career to be in, but I have been extremely fortunate to be able to leverage my educational background and knowledge about the creative industry through Whistling Woods International (WWI). Having gained experience by working in various departments at Mukta Arts for films like Pardes, Taal and Yaadein, I was able to understand the filmmaking process end to end. So, when it came to designing the curriculum for a film school, I was able to bring my knowledge of the real world and form a great balance between academics and the industry. WWI was a dream project of my father’s that soon became my dream, too. As we researched institutions in India and abroad and I learned about how important film and creative education is in India, I became more passionate about making this dream a reality. What does education mean to you? I view education as a vehicle for personal change and growth. Education teaches us values, imparts wisdom and exposes us to new perspectives. At WWI, we encourage our students to push their academic and artistic limits, while striving to be the change they wish to see. I also believe that every child has a right to education. And, in this respect, our partnerships with NGOs like Salaam Balak Trust and Vidhya have been most fulfilling. Tell us about the role your father, legendary filmmaker Subhash Ghai, has played in your professional life. My father has been a constant source of strength and inspiration. He is extremely resilient and thrives in chaos. So, in the most

stressful situations, I have seen him lift everyone around him and advance. He is the most influential person in my life, and the biggest learning that he has passed on to me is to take success and failure, joy and sorrow in my stride. How does WWI mould its students to become future industry experts? WWI prides itself on fostering a holistic environment for its students. The theoretical knowledge, coupled with practical application, enables our students to be industry-ready at the end of their tenure with the institute. This approach has enabled our 2,200+ alumni to make their mark across every branch of the media and entertainment industry, both in India and globally. Among our most accomplished alumni are directors Shashank Khaitan (Humpty Sharma Ki Dulhania, Dhadak) and Arati Kadav (Cargo), actors Aahana Kumra (Lipstick Under

My Burkha) and Rajshri Deshpande (Sacred Games), and producer Aditi Anand (Paan Singh Tomar). How do you envision the education system changing to adapt to the times? WWI has always been at the forefront of advancing the education sector. In the face of today’s rapidly evolving situation, WWI has remained committed to supporting its student community. Our step towards flexible learning has allowed a shift in the entire academic syllabus to an online system. Even in the absence of a formal classroom environment, WWI has ensured that its students’ education is not compromised. The diligence of the faculty and the flexibility with which the students have adapted have enabled the curriculum to proceed without any hiccups.

HOME-GROWN THE HOME EDIT

e new festive

A SUNNY DISPOSITION

ARPITA MEHTA

Mellow mehendi dos and Diwali parties call for yellow co-ords. Turquoise accents will ensure a sunmeets-sky look

1

ANITA DONGRE

1

As celebrations get smaller and move back home, here’s how your traditional wardrobe can match more intimate gatherings

76

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

PAIR WITH

3

EKAYA

1. Yellow kaftan set, Vasansi, 10,500 2. Stripe printed embroidery cape set, Divyam Mehta, 35,500 3. ‘Madison’ clutch, Ahikoza, 40,000

FRONTIER RAAS

LAJJOO C

2

2

1

ANAND KABRA

RITU KUMAR

1. ‘Levitate’ maang tika, Bhavya Ramesh, 4,500 2. Bull skull necklace, Anomaly by Anam at Ensembleindia. com, 14,000 3. Embroidered clutch, Vipul Shah, 7,500

OUT TO LOUNGE The hero silhouette of our stayat-home days, the kaftan can find function during festivities

3

FLOWERS IN FOCUS Zoomed-in florals work best for sundowners

PAIR WITH

3

TARUN TAHILIANI

JADE BY MONICA AND KARISHMA

2

4

JJ VALAYA

THE EASE OF A SARI 1. Jumpsuit and cape set, KoAi, 25,000

A pre-draped concept sari is the answer to every lazy millennial’s dream

KSHITIJ JALORI

ERRIKOS ANDREOU; GREG SWALES

2

WEAR WITH

1 1. ‘Melon’ headgear, Outhouse, 14,500 1. ‘Masai Godet’ sari, 431-88, 26,500

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 77

5

MOHEY FROM THE HOUSE OF MANYAVAR

MANISH MALHOTRA

HOME-GROWN

6

HANDMADE’S TALE Intricate embroidery on pastel tones is one way to flex our country’s craft heritage

1

PAIR WITH 1. Embroidered lehenga, Faabiiana, price on request 2. Gold toned acrylic choker, Suhani Pittie, 8,000

2

PAIR WITH

SHEER JOY 2

1

See-through organza gets its moment in the spotlight. The light-as-air fabric promises not to weigh you down

3

2 1. Brocade dress AKS Clothings, price on request 2. ‘Noor’ bangle, Isharya, 10,090 3. ‘Nandi’ bracelet, Sheetal Zaveri by Vithaldas at Ensembleindia.com, 17,000 4. ‘Pala’ bangles, Misho, 9,250

PAIR WITH

1 1. Embroidered blouse, U/A, 17,500 2. Organza silk sari, Nalli, 14,500

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

BHARAT SIKKA

4

78

TORANI

PUNIT BALANA

SHANTANU & NIKHIL

The new brocade comes alive on neo-traditional silhouettes. Add chunky bangles to mix it up

SHYAMAL & BHUMIKA

7

TEXTILE REVIVALIST

GIFT YOURSELF A QUICK STYLING MAKEOVER

Offering up a slew of quick, easy and efficient styling services, coupled with a selection of hero products for all hair textures and lengths, Schwarzkopf Professional promises to help you up your mane game in a just matter of minutes, all so that you can slay the season in absolute style With the country opening up and restrictions being relaxed, many of us have resumed travelling to work. Not to mention, since we’re in the midst of festive season, our calendars are increasingly filling up with personal appointments—think pujas at relatives’ houses and dinner do’s with our closest girls. And, to ensure that your hair looks like a million bucks, place your trust in professional hair stylists to get the job done. Enter Schwarzkopf Professional. Recognising your concerns of time constraints, the brand, along with its ambassador Florian Hurel, introduces Top Notch Looks that are distinct yet chic hair looks that can

30 min

be conjured up by a hairstylist in just 30 minutes or less using Schwarzkopf Professional’s hero products. Regardless of your hair type (poker straight, wavy, or curly), and irrespective of your hair’s texture (limp, frizzy, or downright unmanageable), the brand’s bouquet of express hair styling services will come to your rescue, helping you achieve elegant hairstyles that will perfectly complement your festive looks this season. So, go ahead and pamper yourself with a much-needed, long overdue hair refresh. All you need to do is sit back and let the hairstylists work their magic on your strands with Schwarzkopf Professional’s star products!

BOB’S THE WAY

Versatile and chic, you can always rely on a sleek bob to elevate your look. This classic, universally-flattering hairstyle suits almost everyone and with Schwarzkopf Professional’s voluminous blow-dry service, you can now get well-defined, bouncy hair. But should you want a more natural looking messy bob that adds instant volume, Schwarzkopf Professional’s hair stylists come armed with a range of superhero products that take your look from drab to fab. CARE AT HOME Schwarzkopf Professional’s BC Collagen Volume Boost range of shampoo and conditioner work gently to remove excess oil and residue that can weigh the hair down. Along with boosting volume and adding strength, this lightweight formulation infuses every strand with moisture while adding shine. Additionally, get a trim every six weeks to maintain the shape and always use a paddle brush while styling your hair. OSiS+ Flexwax will add some texture to your hair while styling and ensure your hairdo stays intact through the day.

TWIST THEM CURLS Whether you have springy ringlets, voluminous curls or buoyant loops, curly hair can be your most distinguishing asset. But it definitely requires some extra TLC as the key to keeping your curls looking their very best lies in your everyday routine. But if you are looking to up your hair game this festive season, Schwarzkopf Professional’s range of hair services will ensure you only have good hair days. CARE AT HOME To maintain your curls at home, it is important to follow a dedicated routine with the right products that don’t dry out your hair. Schwarzkopf Professional’s BC Bonacure Hyaluronic Moisture Kick range of products has hyaluronic acid, a hydrating agent that creates longlasting moisture. The unique formulation also comes infused with panthenol, glycerin and sweet almond oil, while the cell perfector technology brings softness and flexibility. Always finger comb your hair to ensure its tangle-free. An added tip: never skip conditioner and if you must blow dry your hair, use heat-protectant and a diffuser to maintain your gorgeous curls. Apply a small amount of OSiS+ Curl Honey to define and hold the curls.

VINTAGE WAVES

If you are blessed with wavy hair, casual, beachy waves and messy hair days come by often, but you also need to treat your hair right to ensure it looks healthy. And whether you want a glamorous vintage vibe, voluminous waves that scream casual-chic or a soft, tousled look, trust Schwarzkopf Professional’s hair stylists to make your hair look absolutely festive ready. CARE AT HOME Since wavy hair has the tendency to get frizzy, Schwarzkopf Professional’s BC Bonacure Keratin Smooth Perfect range of shampoo and conditioner infused with apricot-kernel oil, deeply nourishes each strand, making hair more manageable. The ultimate frizz-control formula provides intense moisture and helps detangle hair. Also, use a heat-protectant if you are using heat styling tools. Offering strong hold, OSiS+ Session Label Super Dry Fix spray ensures your waves look natural and effortless.

WITH THE FESTIVE SEASON IN FULL SWING, EVERYONE WANTS TO FLAUNT THE PERFECT HAIRSTYLE AND LOOK THEIR BEST. AT THE SAME TIME, SAFETY IS A TOP PRIORITY. WITH THIS IN MIND, I HAVE ESPECIALLY CRAFTED THE QUICK STYLING TECHNIQUES FOR SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL SALONS SO YOU CAN HAVE THAT EFFORTLESS GLAM LOOK IN 30 MINUTES OR LESS AT THE SALON. SO GO AHEAD AND GET YOUR HAIR GAME ON FOR THE FESTIVITIES! FLORIAN HUREL Brand Ambassador, Schwarzkopf Professinal India

QR code Go ahead and get a quick styling makeover at leading salons.

/schwarzkopfprofessionalindia

@schwarzkopf.in #myschwarzkopf

JEWELLERY

THE HOME EDIT

Better together Couture and fine jewellery are always a good idea for a picture-perfect pairing. Whether it’s for an intimate wedding or family festivities, we help you find your partner for this season. By Priyanka Parkash Polki uncut diamonds and Russian emeralds set in 22K gold bracelet, Hazoorilal by Sandeep Narang

ANITA DONGRE

Pearl, turquoise and uncut diamonds set in gold earrings, Sunita Shekhawat

Russian emeralds, diamonds, rubies and flatcut polki set in 18K gold necklace, Raniwala 1881

A hint of mint Give your pristine white or ivory outfit a dash of colour—serene blue, sea green and mint are all trending 84

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

Uncut diamonds, pearls, rubies, spinel and pearl detailing set in 22K gold earrings, Sabyasachi Fine Jewellery

Uncut diamonds, pearls, rubies, emeralds and spinel detailing set in 22K gold chandelier earrings,Sabyasachi Fine Jewellery

Temple gold goddess

RITU KUMAR

Pair your outfits of rust, aubergine and emerald green with temple gold pieces for a traditional-yet-cool edge Gold maang tikka, Tanishq

SABYASACHI

Heritage heaven There’s no better combination than the magic of Indian craftsmanship and heritage Indian jewellery. Make a statement by pairing the two for perfect elegance

Gold earrings, Reliance Jewels

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 85

JEWELLERY Diamonds and pearls set in white gold necklace, Thakorlal Hiralal Diamonds and pearls set in white gold earrings, Goenka India

Pearls of wisdom When your outfit is a pretty pastel with intricate detailing, elements of pearls in your jewellery elevate your ensemble

Enchanting emeralds An edgy look requires the boldest and most beautiful of all stones—the emerald. Stacked bracelets allow your arm candy to have their moment

Diamonds and emeralds set in white gold bracelet, Renu Oberoi Luxury Jewellery

86

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

Diamonds and emeralds set in white gold bangles, Hazoorilal Legacy, South Extension

GAURAV GUPTA

FALGUNI SHANE PEACOCK

Diamonds and pearls set in white gold necklace, Anmol Jewellers

MANISH MALHOTRA

Forevermark diamonds set in white gold bracelet, Om Jewellers

Diamond chandelier earrings, Orra

Diamonds set in white gold necklace, Diacolor

Glamour girl

Polki party

Match your textured and heavily embroidered outfits with chunky polki neck-pieces to flaunt a deep neck

TARUN TAHILIANI

Go all out and pair your most dazzling diamonds with statement-making outfits. Ivory and silver teamed with all-over diamond pieces is a guaranteed head-turner

Uncut diamonds and pearls set in gold necklace, Jaipur Gems

Uncut diamonds set in gold necklace, Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jaipur

Uncut diamonds set in 22K gold double-layered necklace, The House of MBj

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 87

HIGH-STREET 1

CANARY + TANGERINE 1. Jumper, Ted Baker, price on request 2. Leather pouch bag, Massimo Dutti, 12,990 3. ‘Air Max Up’ shoes, Nike, 12,000

3

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

2

3

1

2

FENDI

FUCHSIA + FOREST 4

1. Pleated skirt, Polo Ralph Lauren, 21,600 2. Blouse, Vero Moda, 2,000 3. Borderless horn pendant, Isharya, 9,700 4. Tie-up belt, Label Ritu Kumar, 3,400 5. Textured sandals, Koovs, 2,700

88

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

New equations make way for new combinations as the classics in your closet get colourful

INDIGITAL MEDIA

Rainbow nation

5

BLUSH + ROUGE 1

1. Crystal bead earrings, Mango, 1,400 2. Turtleneck, H&M, 800 3. Faux leather joggers, Zara, 2,500 4. Bag, Charles & Keith at Myntra.com, 7,500 5. Strappy sandals, Aldo, 9,000

2 3

4

GUCCI

5

COBALT + LEAF GREEN

1

2

4

1. Jumper, United Colors of Benetton, price on request 2. Blazer dress, Topshop, 4,640 3. Sunglasses, Vogue Eyewear, 7,290 4. Panelled shoulder bag, Ajio, 1,000

ALBERTA FERRETTI

3

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 89

FOCUS

On course As fashion rides high on equestrian elements, saddle up your everyday wardrobe with caped coats, checkered jackets and knee-high boots

1

8 4

3

KHAITE

2

90

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

1. Tweed jacket, Dolce & Gabbana, 1,66,240 2. Silver earrings, Etro, 24,400 3. Silk dress, Victoria Beckham, price on request 4. ‘Tambour’ bag, Celine, price on request 5. ‘Oblique’ scarf, Dior, price on request 6. ‘Timeless’ boots, Tod’s, price on request 7. Printed enamel bangles Hermès, price on request 8. Hat, Gigi Burris, 26,000

BRANDON MAXWELL

5

6 7

STELLA MCCARTNEY

2

HERMÈS

CHANEL

PHOTO: INDIGITAL MEDIA; ANH KIET DUONG. STYLING: OGÈNDA. HAIR AND MAKEUP: LAURA YARD/NCL REPRESENTATION. MANICURE: DANIËL SMEDEMAN VOOR PEACCI. PRODUCTION: SOFIE VAN DER VELDEN. CASTING DIRECTOR: LISA DYMPH MEGENS/INDUSTRY ART. MODEL: KAJOL SINGH

1

4

IN ADDITION

Give long summer dresses a winter wool coat treatment

3

5 1. Wool blend coat, Gucci, 4,65,330 2. Wool coat, Tory Burch, price on request 3. Leather trimmed wool cape, Burberry, 1,41,490 4. Wool cape, Saint Laurent at Net-a-Porter. com, 1,83,260 5. Wool cape, Isabel Marant, 1,13,400

+ Cotton dress, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, 89,619

Asymmetric wrap-effect dress, Paco Rabanne, price on request ‘Catanzaro’ dress, Silvia Tcherassi 94,300

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 91

ST S POTL I GH T

The good daughter Alongside subverting the cultural traditions and experiences of her family, designer Supriya Lele now has the honour of dressing them, too, as she tells Osman Ahmed

I

t is a truth universally acknowledged that an Indian parent wants a child who will enter one of three professions: medicine, law or engineering. For Supriya Lele, 33, a second-generation British Indian who grew up in the Midlands, her decision to pursue fashion design disrupted an illustrious lineage of medics. Her mother is a clinical director; her late father was a consultant specialist surgeon and the first person to practise neurosurgery in the state of Madhya Pradesh; and other close relations include a psychiatrist and consultants in gynaecology, paediatrics and dermatology. Lele is somewhat the black sheep of the family. Her mother, Dr Meera Bryant, says that as a teenager the designer dressed only in dark colours, painted her room purple and blasted Black Sabbath. Her parents hoped the goth days would pass, and they did, albeit in favour of an all-black uniform in the style of Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and Prada. “When I told my grandmother that I wanted to be a fashion designer, she thought I was going to become a seamstress,” chuckles Lele. Though she initially enrolled in architecture at The University of Edinburgh to appease her parents, she switched to the fashion department (unbeknown to her mum and dad), and subsequently landed a place at the Royal College of Art. Her MA collection caught the eye of Fashion East director Lulu Kennedy, and, in 2017, Lele debuted her brand at London Fashion Week as part of the Fashion East showcase. Fast-forward to the present, and Lele was a finalist in the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers (as a result of the pandemic, the €300,000 award was distributed equally among the eight finalists), and part of a community of London-based designers who are making clothes that reflect their outlooks as young creative businesswomen and second-generation daughters. She uses fashion to examine and reinterpret her Indian heritage, resulting in pieces that bypass the subcontinental stereotypes of paisley, maharani embellishment and bold colours. Lele’s pared-back clothes instead echo the ’90s minimalism of her design heroes: clean, sharp and highly intelligent. But her creations are also imbued with the sensual warmth of Indian leitmotifs. Traditional dupion silks are bleached, distressed and printed over until they’re rendered unfamiliar, while Madras checks come in synthy neons, and the drape of a dupatta is transfigured into a barely-there sheer chiffon dress, which oozes a sexuality that would horrify most Asian aunties. “I’m always looking at my culture from a skeletal perspective,” she explains. “It is the ghosts of these things, as opposed to doing a dupion trouser suit or putting a bindi on a model.” When we meet—on Zoom—Lele and I are joined by her mother. Dr Bryant is on the front line of the NHS. On screen, she’s cheerful and polished, with

her razor-sharp bob, lilac eyeshadow and pussy-bow blouse. Lele is in a black turtleneck. It seems strange to be talking about fashion given the climate, but Bryant points out that it’s been vital in making her feel prepared for her job. “I communicate with a lot of relatives of sick patients, and if you have a doctor who is properly dressed, they think, ‘Well, she does look after herself and so she will look after me,’” she smiles. “A bit of colour adds a bit of happiness at a time of panic and sadness. Fashion can do that.” Bryant moved to the UK in 1986 to continue the medical training she had begun in India. Clothes were a vital part of her journey as an immigrant. Like many Asian women, she arrived with traditional suits and quickly assimilated western clothes. “I felt that when I wore traditional Indian clothes, people looked at me. There was a lot of racism. I thought it would be much better to mix in, so I would watch television newsreaders and take notes, because I thought this is how I should probably be dressing.” Today, she favours a dress and a “good jacket”—however, she still can’t resist the magnetic elegance of a sari. “There’s nothing more feminine and feminist than the way it drapes around a female shape.” Lele didn’t embrace the sari so quickly, and it was a source of consternation during her adolescence. “I’d put it on and think, ‘How am I going to make this look cool? Or even like me?’” she admits. When she began looking into her family’s past, Lele started to dismantle what Meera Syal once aptly called ‘cultural schizophrenia’—the juxtaposition of a British upbringing and the cultural traditions that our parents clung to. She drew on her grandmother going to work at her clinic in a lab coat over her sari (Lele’s wispy asymmetric dresses are often styled with structured tailoring), and watching her mother in NHS aprons. Lele is clear the clinical lines and wipe-clean fabrics she favours are inspired by her experience as a doctor’s daughter, but her work is also a celebration of the trailblazing women in her family, the caregivers who wear their tradition with professionalism and polish. Bryant has already ordered her pick of the season. “She made me a Madras T-shirt and black jacket, a sheer black dress, an organza jacket… And I want the ice-blue dress!” n

Supriya Lele in her studio. Opposite page: A still from her book that launches this month, the proceeds of which will go to Girl Rising. Available at Dover Street Market, London

LESSONS IN HISTORY

This month, Lele launches her first book with photographer Jamie Hawkesworth, titled Narmada after the holy river that they visited last year in Jabalpur, Madhya Pradesh. The 100 images in the book are “a continuation of the collaborative exploration of identity and hometowns. It’s both a personal journey as a female British-Indian designer and a pilgrimage to the reference point behind so much of the work I produce.”

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 95

CRUISE

The show must go on

I

n any given year, Vogue fashion editors would have spent the month of May travelling around the world to some of the most spectacular locations, to attend the cruise shows. Last year, Vogue India’s junior fashion editor Ria Kamat switched three flights for a 48-hour excursion to Marrakech to watch Maria Grazia Chiuri’s third cruise collection at Dior come to life at the Palais El Badi. While in 2018, fashion editors, including myself, criss-crossed France to experience the shows. In the fashion calendar, travelling for cruise was a given. But 2020 as we know it has been a year like no other. Given the strict lockdowns that were imposed in most parts of the world, the shows were postponed to July, with many of the major houses pivoting to digital showings. But in June, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pietro Beccari, chairman and CEO, Christian Dior Couture, held a virtual press conference announcing Dior’s return to the live fashion show, post digital offerings for couture. So, on a monsoon July day in Mumbai (rain seems to be a given during Dior cruise—the shows in Chantilly and Blenheim Palace were famously rained on; fortunately it wasn’t the case in Lecce), I changed into my best pyjamas to watch the Resort 2021 show, live from Lecce, Puglia. After Marrakech, Morocco, Canyon Open Space Preserve in Calabasas, California, and the Blenheim Palace in Oxfordshire, England, Chiuri, whose father hails from Puglia, picked a destination close to her heart. Given how Italy had been an epicentre for COVID-19, Grazia Chiuri’s choice of location also sent an important message to the world, signalling that the country was getting back on its feet.

LIGHTS WILL GUIDE THE WAY

“During this period, I sought to give collective efforts a new dimension. Despite the disadvantages of distance, bringing a different perspective to our

96

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

daily lives has given us strength and imagination,” says Grazia Chiuri. Though Dior chose to go with a physical show, it limited the people in attendance to creative teams and a handful of guests including blogger Chiara Ferragni and her husband, Fedez. Models would walk the runway at a social distance, and the orchestra would be masked. The show’s main viewers would still be the global audience that would watch the magic unfold from the safety of their own home. But in true Dior style, the show was no less elaborate, even if it was for a limited in-person audience, though locals lined their balconies to watch it. In the piazza, Grazia Chiuri, in continuation of her quest to promote local artisans and craftsmen, paid homage to the Luminarie, the signature giant lighting fixtures erected in public squares and monuments for the festivities of the patron saint. Grazia Chiuri collaborated with artist Marinella Senatore. Senatore, known for her work in situ, punctuated her colourful compositions with seven phrases, including the Insta-bait, ‘We Rise By Lifting Others’, that is in line with Grazia’s Dior, known to grab eyeballs for pithy sayings, most famously, the ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ T-shirt. In a full circle, Senatore’s compositions were also transposed into delicate embroideries and prints in the collection, the motifs reflecting the magical roots and mystical elements that Puglia is so known for.

MYSTICISM, ARTISTRY AND MAGIC

Grazia Chiuri’s work is dedicated to bringing artisanal crafts and skills back into focus, especially when the artisans are women. In Morocco, it was the African wax print that served as a focus, and in Puglia, she found incredible artistry and Italian savoir faire that enhanced the region’s mysticism, another integral theme in Grazia Chiuri’s work. “Probably the most important thing that I understood during >

“...Bringing a different perspective to our daily lives has given us strength and imagination” —MA RI A GRA Z IA C HI UR I

PHOTO: DARIO CATELLANI. STYLING: ELIN SVAHN. HAIR: GUIDO PALAU. MAKEUP: PETER PHILIPS. MANICURE: NELLY FERREIRA

In July, Dior was one of the first houses to stage a physical fashion show in Lecce, southern Italy, for the resort 2021 collection. In true Maria Grazia Chiuri style, localised crafts and traditions were transformed and transmitted to all corners of the globe. By Priyanka Khanna

Christian Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri (centre, in T-shirt) with her collaborators. From left: Composer Paolo Buonvino, artist Marinella Senatore, embroidery artisan Marilena Sparasci, choreographer Sharon Eyal, artist Pietro Ruffo and Maria Cristina Rizzo, president, Le Costantine Foundation

COURTESY ALESSANDRO GAROFALO; LAURA SCIACOVELLI; ANTONIO MARIA FANTETTI; SOPHIE CARRE; FREDERICA LIVIA; INDIGITAL MEDIA

Clockwise from top right: The Luminarie created by artist Marinella Senatore; runway looks from the show; sketches; Look 85, worn by Vogue India’s October cover girl, Amrit; Tombolo, the intricate workmanship native to the region, went into creating Amrit’s look. Opposite page: Nature-inspired prints and textures abounded; a top shot of the finale

CRUISE

“I hope to give a different point of view... It’s not only a dialogue with our audience outside, but it’s a dialogue with the territory” —MA R I A G RAZ IA CH IU RI

IT’S IN THE DETAILS A RETURN TO NATURE Diaphanous dresses, handkerchief details and scarves, wheat-staff embroideries, all nodded to a bucolic ideal.

HANDMADE IN PUGLIA Tombolo, a delicate style of lace, bicolour weaves, rustic lace, and fringe— all local traditions and techniques were incorporated. WELL SUITED The short suit made multiple appearances as did a more formal, evening version. LEATHER AND LACE Grazia Chiuri always loves a contrast, so rustic lace and leather corset belts coexisted. TOTE-ALLY COOL The It-girl favourite, the Dior Book Tote, got a country makeover. Along with the Saddle Bag and the Dior Wicker Bag, were the perfect accents.

these four years at Dior—in Paris, they’re so proud about their tradition, fashion is part of their cultural heritage. But we don’t have the same attitude in Italy. Probably it’s because women make these traditions at home, so there’s this idea that it’s domestic work. They don’t think it’s creative work. They don’t give it the same value. They don’t celebrate it. With this show, I hope to give a different point of view to the local people about that. It’s not only a dialogue with our audience outside, but it’s a dialogue with the territory,” she told Vogue.com. The Le Costantine Foundation, started by sisters Giulia and Lucia Starace, and their cousin Lucia de Viti de Marco, aims to preserve living heritage by teaching traditional crafts. Grazia Chiuri worked with its atelier to bring to life the bicolour delicate weaves, including on the seminal Bar jacket while also using its motto ‘Amando e Cantando’ (meaning loving and singing) on a series of skirts. Marilena Sparasci is one of the last remaining embroiderers of Tombolo, an extremely delicate style of lace created in Italy in the 15th century. Particularly prevalent in southern Italy, this embroidery, which is in danger of disappearing, is made by hand through generations. The flowers and the butterflies designed for this collection required up to 15 hours of work. Tessitura Calabrese, a family business, focuses on traditional weaving techniques. Raw materials— pure linen, cotton crepe, silk, herringbone, stripes, satin jacquard—as well as rustic lace and simple or sumptuous fringes, all hand-knotted, are used to make home linens, children’s accessories and gifts. Specially created bags using its techniques were made for guests of the show.

AROUND THE WORLD IN 90 LOOKS

Historically, the cruise collections were created to wardrobe the jet set on their travels. Over the last few years, however, cruise or resort has become the most crucial collection in the fashion calendar, given its popularity, and the fact that it has the longest instore cycle. In Lecce, Grazia Chiuri presented a 90look collection that she had been researching as far back as November. The collection spotlighted the best of the region’s crafts while giving it a global language. A bucolic vibe permeated, with a Dior twist of course. Long, diaphanous feminine dresses that have become a Dior signature, pinafore versions, lace dresses cinched at the waist, floral appliqués, wheat-staff embroideries, cosy knits, leather corsets, kerchief hairpieces. The city’s ancient traditions, its bohemia and its association with agriculture, all translated in myriad ways through the looks. ■

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 99

The new LV Volt jewellery

Tuning in Francesca Amfitheatrof

An innovative and genderless fine jewellery collection by Louis Vuitton, LV Volt plays on the graphic lines of the label’s hallowed initials as a metaphor for moving to the rhythm of life. By Akanksha Kamath

I

n September, Louis Vuitton launched a 36-piece jewellery collection titled LV Volt. Genderless, ageless and inclusive (as seen in its campaign starring actor Alicia Vikander, model Xiaoxing Mao, dancer Hugo Marchand and artist Sharon Alexie), the line-up of gold and silver-

100

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

toned fine jewellery interspersed with fiery diamonds uses the heritage French luxury label’s logo as its mainstay. The two capital letters merge, split apart, unite and interact in varied forms that mimic the pulse and rhythm of life in a unique exploration of speed. Francesca Amfitheatrof, artistic director of

JEWELLERY

From left: LV Volt white gold and diamond large pendant necklace, small pendant necklace, mesh bracelet in yellow gold, ring; all Louis Vuitton

watches and jewellery, reimagines the famed monogram and moves it into dynamic territory, bringing motion and malleability to earrings, bracelets, rings, necklaces and even bandanas made in mesh. “It is a modern, clean collection. It is contemporary but also timeless. When the decoration is stripped and the essence is brought to the forefront, it becomes genderless, ageless and has a global appeal,” she explains. We speak to the designer about her modernist approach to creating jewellery for a new generation. Akanksha Kamath: How did the collection become a metaphor for movement and how have you reimagined the L and V of Louis Vuitton in the jewellery? Francesca Amfitheatrof: The starting point for LV Volt was an emotion—in particular, music and female drummers. It’s about rhythm, a beat, a drum beat. I was inspired by women. LV Volt is about turning up the volume and drumming to your own beat. The L and V are played within combinations we’ve not seen before. I am inspired by Bauhaus and minimalist architecture, where things are taken down to their essence. The construction of the L and the V is very similar, it is about the way that the two letters marry together and integrate, split and flip to become one with the other. AK: How will jewellery integrate into our newly reconfigured lives? FA: Jewellery today is an accessory that has become part of fashion. We at Louis Vuitton do not have a traditional approach to jewellery. This allows for individual styling and a personalised conversation.

For example, the bandana in gold is a fashion item interpreted in yellow gold. It is an extraordinary mesh, completely fluid, and feels like silk. It has an incredible softness which is more high jewellery than fine jewellery because of its movement and intricate detail. All of the technical elements are completely hidden so that the graphic element is at the forefront. This mesh is a feat of savoir faire. AK: The rippling bracelets, claw-like rings and other experimental silhouettes in jewellery— how do you see them being worn? FA: This collection is about layering. You can stack the rings. The upside rings can be worn in different directions, with the open ones on the knuckles or between the knuckle and the fingertip. You can practically cover your whole hand and style them in lots of ways. I would style the upside bracelet with the curb chain and the mesh. AK: Take us through the modern construction and treatment of jewellery. FA: This is a modern approach to a gold collection. It celebrates the way the light falls and reflects onto gold. The surfaces are rounded and there is a softness to them. We’ve sliced and carved into the gold, as well as added diamonds in particular places to accentuate the details. As an avid jewellery wearer, my love for jewellery is personal. I am 100 per cent involved in how the pieces will feel on your skin. The distribution of weight, the suppleness and softness of touch are essential for the pieces to become a part of your body. You will feel the pleasure of wearing the pieces only by having absolute comfort and equilibrium in design. ■

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 101

Independent vision This festive season is going to be like none before. But that doesn’t mean you need to forgo the dress code. These young, independent, women-led labels are catering to our evolving fashion need for clothes that make us feel good as we celebrate more intimately. By Butool Jamaal

“Since the pandemic, we’ve been concentrating on timeless pieces that have repeat value” —SANA BARR EJA

BEST FOR MILLENNIAL-FRIENDLY SILHOUETTES

SANA BARREJA Who: Sana Barreja Where: Delhi The bestsellers: Sangeetready printed lehengas and sexy stitched saris For Delhi-based Sana Barreja, the pandemic has brought about a shift in design thinking. While the mainstays of her eponymous label are usually her festive lehengas and saris, the latest collection is a prêt line of kurta sets in delicious pastel tones with couture-level details, hand embroidery and streamlined tailoring. This is to keep in mind her clients’ more careful and practical approach to fashion. “Since the pandemic started, we have been concentrating on timeless pieces that aesthetically have more of a repeat value over years and generations,” says Barreja. A graduate of Pearl Academy of Fashion, Barreja started her label in 2016 when she was 26. “I wanted to bring together traditional crafts with modern silhouettes,” she says. In particular, she has a fascination for different embroidery styles ranging from zardozi and dabka to French knots (a personal favourite). Sanabarreja.com

102

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

MIND YOUR OWN BUSINESS BEST FOR ALL AGES

SHORSHE Who: Tanushree Chatterjee Basu Where: Delhi Add to cart: A slim, sheer overlay and a short jamdani panel dress, both made of a shimmering metallic tissue fabric from Murshidabad By the time Tanushree Chatterjee Basu founded her label Shorshe in 2016, she had already worked as a director and producer in films and advertising for over 20 years. “I started designing when I was in my forties, so my focus is very clearly on older women. I know what the problem areas are for women my age, how we prioritise comfort and appreciate textiles,” says Basu. Her design process starts with the textiles: gossamer tissue, ultra-soft muslin, or transparent chanderi, usually handwoven in regions around West Bengal and Madhya Pradesh. These are cut into simple, wearable silhouettes, like choga dresses, short kurtas or tunics to be worn over cigarette pants, salwars or palazzos. “A sari might not be everyone’s thing, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be able to enjoy those beautiful textiles,” she adds. Shorsheclothing.com

“I know women my age, and how we prioritise comfort and appreciate textiles” —TA NUS HR EE C HAT TE RJEE BASU

BEST FOR HAND-PAINTED SARIS

PICCHIKA Who: Urvashi Sethi Where: Jaipur Must-have: A grey sari painted with plum flowers Urvashi Sethi founded Picchika soon after graduating from Pearl Academy in 2015, but her label made major strides in 2019. Kareena Kapoor Khan and Alia Bhatt were spotted wearing her delicate silk organza saris, which rocketed the Jaipur-based label onto everyone’s Instagram feeds. Sethi’s repertoire also includes lehengas and kurtas, all in similarly soothing tones of blush pink, grey and melon with handpainted floral motifs. “I’m a great believer in the idea that the colours and clothes we wear can have an impact on our state of mind,” says Sethi. “I imagine women who wear my label will feel peaceful and joyful in leisure and while performing daily tasks.” Picchika.in > www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 103

“In the age of machines, it is fascinating that little imperfections cannot be replicated” —N ATAS HA K AU R

BEST FOR BLOCK PRINTS

TASHA Who: Natasha Kaur Where: Delhi The bestseller: An A-line kurta set with lace cut-work pockets, puffed sleeves and bright, block-printed floral patterns With her latest collection, designer Natasha Kaur has dedicated herself to the art of block printing. “It’s my all-time favourite technique because in an age where machines churn out yards of fabric imitations, here is a product where the human touch is apparent. It’s fascinating that little imperfections cannot be replicated by a machine,” says the Delhi-based designer. A graduate of the Pearl Academy of Fashion, Kaur started her label Tasha last year, intending to help women “start embracing Indian wear in a modern way.” That means that along with vibrant block prints, her latest collection of cheery kurta sets come paired with an array of fun bottoms, from shararas to palazzo pants to button-detail salwars. Details like tassels and lace-edging add femininity and fun. Instagram.com/tashaindiaofficial

BEST FOR FORMAL OCCASIONS

DEBYANI Who: Debyani Malhotra Where: Delhi Watch out for: A densely hand-embroidered bridal lehenga in spice tones on an indigo base. The look unexpectedly went viral on Instagram When she founded her label five years ago, Debyani Malhotra was already a veteran in the business. Debyani is the Delhi-based designer’s second brand after her first shut down after six years. Armed with her degrees from Pearl Academy and NIFT, Delhi, Malhotra launched her new venture in 2015 focusing on festive and bridal wear. The designer describes her process like the coming together of a “jigsaw puzzle”. “Prints, embroideries, silhouettes and colours, each is developed independent of each other and then mixed and matched to create a new style.” The result is that each piece is a distinct creation that showcases a range of techniques, from Suzani embroidered jackets to draped dhoti pants worn under tailored, highlow hem kurtas, or sheer capes and lehengas, all decorated with intricate thread work. Instagram.com/debyaniandco 104

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

MIND YOUR OWN BUSINESS

BEST FOR CUSTOMISATION

AYESHA CHINAI Who: Ayesha Chinai Where: Mumbai Most memorable order: “A bride wanted her entire love story on her ghagra,” she recalls. “We selected six photographs, turned them into patterns and managed to capture it all in gold zardozi on an Indian red base” Since she founded her label in 2007, designer Ayesha Chinai has been quietly fulfilling the wardrobe needs of Mumbai’s swish set. Her feminine, festive Indian wear is an opulent showcase of the wealth of Indian embroidery, from gota patti to zari, metallic aari and mirror work. “My love for embroidery is what gave birth to my label,” reveals Chinai. A fashion merchandising graduate from the Fashion Careers College in California, she worked at a sportswear company before she started her label. Now, Chinai works with each of her clients individually to create a bespoke look. “I cater to each person’s personality so that they are at their utmost ease,” she says. “When you wear something that you feel confident in, that’s when you can enjoy it.” Instagram.com/ayeshachinai

BEST FOR MULTITASKING SEPARATES

SUREENA CHOWDHRI Who: Sureena Chowdhri Where: Delhi Must-have buys: Pastel-toned chanderi kurtas with details like scalloped edging and lace Sureena Chowdhri’s label is truly a family endeavour. While the Delhi-based designer takes care of the design, her son Govind, a former lawyer, works on business development. Chowdhri has been manufacturing for other brands since 2000, until Govind convinced her to launch her own label in 2018. The pair decided to focus on the idea of “accessible luxury”—clothes that are versatile enough to be worn multiple times, that are well designed with unique handcrafted details and that can be easily bought online. The result is a collection of pared-back yet elegant Indian separates that have been spotted on Kareena Kapoor Khan and Taapsee Pannu. Sureenachowdhri.com ■

“Accessible luxury, where

handcrafted clothes can be bought online and worn multiple times, is the future” —SUR EENA C HOWDHR I

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 105

13TH A N N IV E RS A RY S P ECI A L

OCT 2020 200

13 YEARS, 13 VOICES 1 LOVE CELEBRATING INDIA WITH AN EE TH ARORA G ARI MA AR OR A F R EDDY B IR DY DIV INE SAM IN A HA MIED P ICO IYE R HA SAN MI NHA J SU DHA MU RT Y M IRA NAI R ISH A A M B ANI PIR AMA L B YJU R AV E E ND RA N TRI SHA SHE T TY

+ MODEL OF THE MOMENT

AMRIT

13TH AN N IV ER S AR Y S P EC IA L

OCT 2020 200

13 YEARS, 13 VOICES 1 LOVE CELEBRATING INDIA WITH ANE ET H ARORA GARIMA ARO RA FRED DY BI RD Y DI VINE SAMI NA HAMI ED PIC O IYE R HAS AN MINH AJ SUDH A MURT Y MI RA NAIR ISHA AMBAN I PI RAM AL BYJU RAVEE NDRAN TRIS HA SHE TT Y

+ MODEL OF THE MOMENT

AMRIT

13 YEARS, 13 VOICES 1 LOVE CELEBRATING INDIA WITH

+ MODEL OF THE MOMENT

AMRIT

EXCLUSIVE

From left: Gauri Khan; ‘Dew Drops’ emerald, customcut turquoise and diamonds set in 18K gold earrings and necklace, ZOYA - A TATA Product

Gaurav Gupta gown and the diamond and sapphire ‘Light of the Rainforest’ necklace, her favourite piece from the line. Here, Khan gives us a peek into the collection and her bijoux box. What draws you to Zoya’s aesthetic? Being an interior designer, I am incredibly particular about detailing when it comes to jewellery. And as a student of art and history, I have always admired Zoya’s commitment to design and craftsmanship. For ‘Rooted’, I like the metaphor of rainforests as a reflection of inner strength, the journey of a woman as she casts away external expectations to embrace the deep feminine within. With the world in chaos, resilience is the need of the hour.

Gauri Khan launches Zoya’s ‘Rooted’ collection that draws a bejewelled parallel between female resilience and centuries-old rainforests. By Praachi Raniwala

W

hen Zoya, the diamond boutique from the House of Tata, was creating the mood board for its latest collection, it didn’t have to look far for inspiration. The quintessential Zoya woman— ambitious, independent, nurturing—proved to be a worthy muse. Therein was born ‘Rooted’, with the resilient female spirit represented via designs of rainforests that date back 55 million years. The resulting 45-piece collection of versatile classics uses a kaleidoscopic edit of gemstones punctuated with diamonds. The motifs borrow from flora and fauna as diverse as the Amazonian royal flycatcher, scarlet macaw and buttress roots. Designer Gauri Khan launched ‘Rooted’ virtually in September, wearing a 108

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

Fashion is currently in favour of versatility. Does ‘Rooted’ score high on this quality? These designs will stand the test of time—I could wear them and so could Suhana [her 20-year-old daughter]. There are statement pieces for the red carpet or weddings, while the turquoise and gold lariats and bracelets add a hint of glamour to your work wardrobe without being distracting. The pendants can elevate a casual outfit for an evening indoors. n

INSIDE HER BIJOUX BOX

SIGNE VILSTRUP

Rooting for you

How would you describe your jewellery style? My style is classic, minimal and contemporary. I gravitate towards tone-on-tone and subtle colours. But this collection is an exception. It is vibrant and spirited, which appeals to the artist in me. Gemstones with intricate carving make the pieces stand out, such as the combination of pink and green tourmalines, which I love.

Most cherished jewellery: “My mum’s jadau bridal set.” The piece on repeat: “My grandmother’s ring with emeralds, rubies, diamonds, and blue and yellow sapphires that seemed larger than life to me as a little girl.” An heirloom for Suhana: “The first piece of jewellery Shah Rukh gave me—a tennis bracelet with semi-precious stones.”

JUST IN

DOUBLE TAP As seen on Instagram, Dhulipala’s style is a mix of cult-cool and classic

The glow up It’s the festive wear drop we didn’t know we needed. Vogue India catches up with actor Sobhita Dhulipala, the face of H&M’s campaign, on how she brings her alternative style to the glitter and shimmerladen ‘Brighter Than Ever’ collection. By Akshara Subramanian

S COURTESY@ SOBHITAD/INSTAGRAM

obhita Dhulipala, the Instagram darling, OTT screen sensation and now H&M campaign star, has worn little white dresses (of the snug and sequinned variety) only a few times. In fact, she could count them on her fingertips. But for her new role as one of the faces of H&M’s festive wear campaign ‘Brighter Than Ever’, Dhulipala slipped into one, and in true pandemicstyle, grounded it in the comfort of sneakers. The last six months have seen a world of change. Most of us are still adapting to a newly configured world with changing rules and, more importantly, changing closets. While this year’s festive season is expected to be low-key, the good news is that your style doesn’t have to be. Dhulipala tells us how the latter half of the year, filled with festivities, is a glimmer of hope in times of crisis. There’s always anticipation around H&M’s drops. Tell us more about how the partnership came about. H&M is loved the world over for its versatility and ability to connect with a variety of ages, moods and cultures. And this campaign is especially a draw. I love how simple yet powerful its motto ‘Brighter

Than Ever’ is. The clothes reflect the new normal with their sophistication. In these times, do some clothes appeal to you more than others? I’m reaching for comfort and nostalgia to rejuvenate my mood. The style staples I’m relying on for this festive season are vibrant, chic and relevant. Your style oscillates between unconventional and traditional. How do you think the campaign is reflective of that? This campaign is quite reflective of my current mood, which is full of hope and being more authentic. The clothes have personality and grace, they’re festive, and at the same time, let the person shine. How would you style your favourites? I remember having to choose between two stunning pieces. We finalised a sizzling short dress. The newness of our times calls for the courage to try what we haven’t, so I wore one. I like the versatility of H&M’s co–ord sets, bustier tops, and flowy skirts. I’d bring sneakers, retro sunglasses, bomber jackets, and red lipstick into the mix. n www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 109

Ana de Armas is the new face of the Natural Diamond Council

A star is born

With multiple projects readying for release, Ana de Armas is setting Hollywood ablaze. As the face of the Natural Diamond Council’s campaign, the actor adds another feather to her already full cap. By Priyanka Khanna

110

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

ON ACTING: “I always knew I wanted to be an actor. I studied in Cuba and then had the opportunity to move to Spain at the age of 18. One of the highlights was being cast as Marilyn Monroe. As a Cuban woman, being cast to play an American icon was an honour and privilege. She was a fascinating person and went through so much in her life. Learning about her taught me to appreciate little things.” ON THE PAST FEW MONTHS: “I spent some time in Portugal shooting this campaign which was great. Other than that, I’ve spent a lot of time in my sweatpants. I also got a puppy, Salsa.” ON HER STYLE: “Classic, playful, effortless. My favourite part about wearing diamonds is that they can be worn on any occasion—lunch with old

COURTESY NATURAL DIAMOND COUNCIL

T

he 25th James Bond movie, No Time to Die, Deep Water with partner Ben Affleck, The Night Clerk with Helen Hunt, Blonde as Marilyn Monroe—Ana de Armas’s roll call of upcoming projects reflects a diversity of roles that most actors can only dream of. While the very private actor told Vanity Fair, “Hollywood is not my life, it’s my reality,” at the moment, the spotlight is firmly on her every move. The last few months, Cuban-born de Armas— who has become tabloid fodder thanks to her relationship with Affleck, and kept the paparazzi busy during the lockdown—took time out of her schedule promoting Deep Water and Blonde to film the Natural Diamond Council’s latest campaign in Portugal. She talks to Vogue India about falling in love with diamonds, characters, and herself.

JEWELLERY “I’m fascinated by human nature and exploring the foundation and complexity of a character”

friends, errands or special moments. For me, it’s less about the style of the diamond and more about how the diamond came to be. I love natural diamonds and the way the Natural Diamond Council prioritises safe and ethical mining practices. Sometimes, to me, the smallest pieces are the most elegant. They are just an accent, yet they enhance the way you feel, which is really what beauty is—how you feel about yourself.” ON THE RED CARPET: “I admire those who take risks with their style but remain true to who they are. I think the most beautiful thing on a red carpet is confidence. I admire the designers and brands who are taking strides to be more sustainable.” ON A HISTORIC HEIRLOOM SHE WOULD LOVE TO OWN: “The diamond necklace that Marilyn Monroe wore in Some Like It Hot (1959) would be really cool.” ON HER FALL WARDROBE: “I prefer warm weather, so big, comfy sweaters are my go-to for fall.” ON HER BEAUTY SECRETS: “I try to keep my skin clean and moisturised. I don’t wear makeup unless I have to. I get lots of sleep, drink plenty of water and unwind by doing yoga when I can.” ON HER VARIED FILMOGRAPHY: “It always starts with the script and the filmmaker. I’m drawn to complex and unexpected roles. I connect with characters that evolve or change over the course of the story.” ON BEING IN A BOND FILM: “I was attracted to Paloma for so many reasons. She’s such a dynamic character. She has a mission of her own and intersects with Bond so they can help each other. She’s funny, strong and complex. I was excited to play a woman in a Bond film that didn’t need saving. Being part of a Bond film means your work becomes part of cinematic history, which is special.” ON WHAT FUELS HER: “I’m fascinated by human nature and exploring the foundation and complexity of a character. I find that a person is never just one thing. We have a tendency to put people

into boxes, but we are often contradictory and can be totally different at different times and during different experiences. It’s the nuances and the surprises in people that interest me.”

The campaign was shot in Portugal, directed by Manu Cossu and photographed by Camilla Åkrans

ON THE CHANGING RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN WOMEN AND DIAMONDS: “Diamonds have marked important milestones throughout my life. They all have unique meanings. Women recognise that diamonds don’t just represent engagements anymore. As shown in this campaign, diamonds can be reminders of memories with a loved one, a parent or a friend. They could even be a special gift to yourself following an exciting accomplishment.” ON FALLING IN LOVE WITH DIAMONDS: “I don’t remember the first time, but I know that now, whenever I’m fortunate enough to wear diamonds, they remind me of happy memories throughout my life. Just like my clothes, I like the jewellery I wear to fit the occasion and how I’m feeling in the moment.” n www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 111

WATCHES

Classical conditioning

The iconic timepiece and its milestones

TIME IS NOW

2006 2009

Just before the lockdown, the British star moved to Paris, the same city where the house of Cartier was founded in 1847 and where the first ‘Pasha’ collection was created in 1985. Over the decades, the classic timepiece has been updated several times, all without losing its signature characteristics: the round dial, the square frame in the centre, a crown with a screw cap and chain, and when the design permits, 12, 3, 6 and 9-hour markers. These details are so specific that you can easily spot a ‘Pasha’ from a mile away.

2005

PARIS CALLING

1998

“I find the watch empowering to wear as it reflects my confidence as a woman,” explains the young star. At just 23, she’s got a decade of work behind her, including eight unforgettable GOT seasons. “Success is entirely personal; it’s never about the status which comes with the work that you’ve achieved. If you’re doing something that you find unfulfilling, you’ll never see it as successful,” she says wisely. It’s been over a year since the finale aired, and Williams hasn’t stopped working. This year alone she’s released two films—The Owners, a psychological thriller set in the 1990s and The New Mutants, where she plays a Marvel superhero. She also bagged the six-episode dark comedy Two Weeks To Live. “Success is a positive mental attitude. You take from the world what you put in. I’m currently manifesting my happiness and success.”

1995

T

he dark, slicked-back hair and bare face of actor Maisie Williams throws us back to her unforgettable role as Arya Stark on the HBO fantasy drama Game Of Thrones. Dressed in muted monochrome tones and edgy biker boots, the watch on her wrist is effortlessly cool, much like herself. She’s shot with Cartier

THE PASHA PERIOD

1985

Game Of Thrones star Maisie Williams is back in front of the camera with a Cartier campaign. Rishna Shah reports

for her latest role as the brand ambassador of the new ‘Pasha’ watches. On set with photographer Craig McDean, she selects two timepieces to wear: a bold 41mm steel dial, followed by a smaller and dressier 35mm pink gold and diamond number.

A NEW ERA

112

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

2020

Actor Maisie Williams wears the new ‘Pasha de Cartier’ watch

Cartier loyalists will also be pleased to see that the new collection is predominately genderless, complete with all the bells and whistles that come with serious watchmaking (think tourbillons and skeletonised mechanical movements) as well as the diamond-studded varieties that French jewellers are known for. The ‘Pasha’ line-up is versatile—a quality Williams is all too familiar with. On-screen, she often portrays a tough, headstrong woman; on social media, she’s relatable, likeable and experimental, constantly reinventing her hairstyles from blonde mullets to pink bobs. But her most apparent trait is that she’s always true to herself. “Don’t waste time being anyone other than yourself. Never let the people who don’t care for the real you distract you from loving who you are,” she explains, as the left wrist with which she famously fenced in Westeros now gleams with a shiny new ‘Pasha’. ■

1985: Launch of the first ‘Pasha’ 1995: The 10th anniversary steel version and 35mm dial 1998: A feminine makeover with the ‘Pasha 32’ 2005: A 42mm dial for its 20th anniversary 2006: The ‘Pasha Seatimer’ comes with a sporty rubber strap 2009: The 27mm dial mini ‘Miss Pasha’ 2020: The ‘Pasha de Cartier’ with a skeletonised dial, tourbillon and changeable straps

Tamara Ralph

François-Henry Bennahmias

Watches from the collaboration between the haute horologer Audemars Piguet and couture label Ralph & Russo

It takes two to tango When high fashion and high watchmaking come together, the results are nothing short of magical. The creative union between the two luxury powerhouses of Audemars Piguet and Ralph & Russo is giving us all the feels. By Rishna Shah

F

ro m tulle to tourbillons and feathers to frosted gold, there’s an amalgamation of textures and materials when the worlds of a Swiss haute horologer and a British haute couturier collide. For this collaboration, Audemars Piguet selects a handful of timepieces to complement outfits from Ralph & Russo’s couture shows. The first look is a showstopper: an 18K pink gold and diamond version of the bestselling ‘Royal Oak Selfwinding’, with an octagonal shaped dial and grid motif, that finds its soulmate in a lavender and peach cocktail dress embellished with crystals and trimmed with ostrich feathers. The dimensions of the watch have been made smaller, with a daintier dial of 34mm to match the delicate dresses by Ralph & Russo.

114

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

Then, there is the dramatic raspberry tulle ballgown with silk organza frills juxtaposed with a bolt of blue leather on the wrist. Featuring a flying tourbillon, the crème de la crème of technical watchmaking, a rare frosted gold finish and a ring pattern on the dial, this is the ‘Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon’. The toughness of its metal engineering is balanced with the softness of the gown. Vogue India speaks to Tamara Ralph, creative director of Ralph & Russo and François-Henry Bennahmias, CEO of Audemars Piguet to learn more about their collaboration. What qualities do high fashion and high watchmaking have in common? Tamara Ralph (TR): Our ready-to-wear collec-

COLLABORATION tions represent the same level of detail and precision as our couture offerings, and the same can be said for Audemars Piguet watches. They are crafted with exceptional quality and truly stand the test of time. François-Henry Bennahmias (FHB): Watchmaking is all about detail. Our watches can be made with 350 to 400 parts each, perfectly held together. In fashion, you can find the same thing, from the shape of a shoulder to the position of a button. There are many small details that you can’t see but they impact the making of a jacket or a dress. Very few people understand what couture is and how many hours it takes. How does it feel to see your respective pieces come together? TR: Beyond our brand synergies, Audemars Piguet watches complement our pieces perfectly. The timepieces help bring each look together in a way that is both polished but also unexpected—they aren’t your typical accessory for a runway show. We intended to marry each timepiece to its respective look from the collection in a way that is cohesive and complementary, but also modern. FHB: When you look at the assembly of fine watchmaking or couture, it is perfectly beautiful. It is the FedEx of emotions at the highest possible degree. Some people are touched by this and I am one of

them. I have a passion for fashion. I remember watching a Christian Lacroix haute couture fashion show many years ago that made me cry. Ralph & Russo are genuinely good people. When you mix human values and absolute talent, you get ultimate creativity. What were the challenges in collaborating during a pandemic? TR: Like with most projects that have taken place during this trying time, the most challenging part of collaborating was doing it all remotely. We had to be agile and flexible and really learn a new, largely digital way of working. We surprised ourselves in the process with how productive and efficient working remotely can be. But we are very much looking forward to the day when we can invite the Audemars Piguet team back into our atelier and vice versa. FHB: Nothing will replace a direct physical relationship where we can see each other and exchange ideas on the spot. That was missing, as being behind a screen doesn’t help facilitate the interactions. Luckily, our relationship started last year when we went to London and saw their collection. Being exposed to their work helped refine our relationship. We have some more great ideas from their clothes that we could potentially adapt to our watches, but we need more time. ■

“The timepieces help to bring each look together in a way that is both polished but also unexpected” —TAMA RA RA LP H

READY-TOCOUTURE

Priyanka Chopra Jonas

Winnie Harlow

GETTY IMAGES

Sonam Kapoor Ahuja

Aishwarya Rai Bachchan Deepika Padukone

When it comes to scene-stealing red-carpet looks, Ralph & Russo come out on top with their dramatic pieces. Some of the world’s most fashion-forward ladies (and Vogue India cover girls) seem to agree

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 115

Vogue Wedding Directory a unique online marketing and discovery platform that helps brands reach the right audience. By creating compelling content for your brand, it allows you to connect with potential customers beyond the metros, improve your brand’s visibility and a lot more… To create your Directory or for more details and listing queries, log on to vogue.in/wedding-directory/ or write to [email protected]

ERRIKOS ANDREOU

Be a part of Vogue’s “It” list of the best curated wedding professionals through

SOME OF THE FEATURED BRANDS ANNU’S CREATION

Founded in 2011, Annu’s Creation is the brainchild of Annu Patel, who launched her label while she was studying at the International Institute of Fashion Design (INIFD), Vadodara. Hailing from a small town in Gujarat, Patel stayed true to her roots while developing her label and kept heritage and tradition at the heart of her style sensibility. She believes in following tradition when it comes to her design philosophy; and this has led to her label becoming one of the most celebrated and sought-after fashion houses in Gujarat.

SEASON’S FAVOURITE

Annu’s Creation has become a household name in Gujarat, with a loyal customer base. The label’s 2020 bridal collection, Gulshan, seamlessly blends traditional designs with contemporary inspirations, thus appealing to modern brides who are looking for unconventional yet elegant wedding attire. These ready-to-wear whimsical silhouettes promise to perfectly capture the many moods of the ceremonies on your big day in absolute style.

GEETHIKA KANUMILLI Focusing on the confluence of traditional embroidery and a contemporary aesthetic, Geethika Kanumilli’s eponymous label was founded in Hyderabad in 2015. She launched the label at just 20 years old while she was studying at the National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Hyderabad. As a designer, her ensembles are an amalgamation of Indian and Western aesthetics, and she has now gained a reputation for crafting Indian bridalwear in refreshing palettes.

SEASON’S FAVOURITE

Kanumilli’s latest collection, Leia, boasts chic, vibrant outfits that are comfortable yet stylish—perfect for the young millennial bride. This gorgeous ivory lehenga from the Leia line flaunts patterned floral motif work and comes with a cutwork dupatta in an enchanting forest green hue that beautifully offsets the ivory of the lehenga. Even better, the flattering deep, broad V-neckline of the blouse will let you show off your beautiful décolletage and dazzling diamond necklaces in style.

SURUCHI PARAKH COUTURE With a deep appreciation for art and a critical eye for design, Suruchi Parakh launched her eponymous label in 2015. A Surat-based label, Suruchi Parakh Couture envisions a modern future for the Indian woman. With an assortment of bridal embroidered lehengas and contemporary saris that weave together traditional and Western aesthetics, Parakh’s collections are an ode to Indian craftsmanship. Each ensemble from the label tells a story, with inspiration coming from elements of nature and varied cultures.

SEASON’S FAVOURITE Suruchi Parakh Couture specialises in Indo-Western bridalwear and offers modern brides-to-be a selection of customised ensembles as well as ready-towear sets. The label’s latest Kalakari collection focuses on different techniques of craftsmanship whilst seamlessly bringing out the artistic thoughts and creativity of the designer. This ethereal lehenga is replete with colourful hand-painted flowers and is inspired by the designer’s trip to Kashmir’s Valley of Flowers. Complementing it is an equally stunning handcrafted blouse that lends the outfit a lovely contemporary charm.

E

E TORS AT HOME

E

RS ME

RS ME

BEAU

SN

NI

Puff sleeve shirt, H&M Studio. Hoop earrings, Ridhi Asrani

M Y

B E A U T IF U L

LI FE

Funny girl

For influencer Kusha Kapila, isolating from conventional standards and claiming her own beauty and body became her biggest strength. She tells Sanjana Salunkhe about the lessons she learnt along the way Photographed by ANUBHAV SOOD

Styled by DANIEL FRANKLIN

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 119

MY BEAUTIFUL LIFE

Y

o u may know Kusha Kapila as the funniest girl on the internet, with her alter ego Billi Maasi taking digs at nasty aunties and her honest thoughts about ‘Monday mood’ giving us a reality check. Her witty, sharp and contained digital persona seldom fails to uplift our day. But the stories cracking up 1.4 million Instagram followers come from decades of unlearning—unlearning the set standards of beauty, body hate, and the way stories are told. Once an aspiring writer, now a social media sensation, Kapila opens up about her journey, served with a side of comedy.

“I think of beauty as an exercise in knowing yourself, your skin, and your preferences better”

CHILDHOOD LESSONS

“At a very early stage in my life, I realised I liked to challenge everything and everybody. I hit puberty around the age of 10 and started experiencing body issues. My mum was very strict and had a certain idea of the kind of person she wanted me to be when I grew up, and the more she tried to do that, the more rebellious I became,” says Kapila, with a laugh. What started as an inquisitive mind asking the right questions forms the background for her many sketches today about the issues women face in India.

BECOMING HER

“I started gaining weight when I was 11. I remember being petrified of having to stand on a weighing scale for my annual medical check-ups in school. Being curvy, overweight or obese was something that was frowned upon. I ended up developing a lot of body hate. I started dissing women who would wear red lipstick or put on makeup, only to realise later that it came from an actual place of rejecting myself.” But that soon changed when she started meeting women from different parts of the world. “There were women who walked around with hairy legs, or without a bra, and that helped me in a big way, especially in the way I started viewing myself,” she says.

ON BEAUTY STANDARDS

Kapila wants everyone to celebrate the di-

120

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

HONEST FEELINGS A life-changing beauty experience: “When I first bought and used the Ruby Woo Retro Matte Lipstick by M.A.C. It’s known to have changed many women’s lives.” On being on a diet: “Why? Why is the world so unfair? Why is my metabolism not better?” If she had to roast a beauty product: “I don’t understand toners. I have no idea what they do to our skin.” Her biggest beauty regret: “Biting my nails. I think I have destroyed them by now.” A self-care routine she would rather skip: “Removing makeup. How are we in 2020 and there is no automated way to do it?”

verse universe that we have been able to explore and crush the notion of benchmarks. “I can’t stand standards. I find it absolutely absurd, and the idea is to challenge that. How can you set a standard for billions of people who come from such different histories and ancestral lines? I feel it is a great disservice and is, in fact, against the very idea of beauty.”

EMBRACING THE ZIT

“Acne is soul-crushing, whether you get it as a teenager or as an adult. I have always felt that it is something I don’t need to shy away from but rather talk about, considering I could have instances that could help somebody else,” says Kapila, who does not dish out advice on what to eat, treatments to try or ointments to apply. “You have to go through your skincare journey to know what works for you. It is something you do as a part of your wellbeing and self-love.”

THE BEAUTY ROUTINE

“I have combination skin with oily cheeks (instead of an oily T-zone) and I also suffer from PCOD, a hormonal disorder that causes acne, among other symptoms. So I stick to brands that are recommended by doctors, which can be found at pharmacies and not at a supermarket,” says Kapila as she shares her skincare steps: - She cleanses her face with Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser, exfoliates with Paula’s Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant with Salicylic Acid, followed by Sesderma C-Vit Liposomal Serum. “This is a regimental thing I do.” - In case of active acne or to dry the acne, Avène TriAcnéal Expert Emulsion is her go-to. “It helps fade marks,” she says. - “I never miss sunscreen and moisturiser, Photoderm and Sebium Hydra, respectively, both by Bioderma.” - Her once-a-week ritual includes a glycolic acid peel called Liquid Gold by Alpha-H. “If I want my face to have that glow, I use this. You apply it on your face and let it be, and don’t follow it up with anything else,” she suggests. n

Hair and makeup: Savleen Kaur Manchanda Art direction: Snigdha Kulkarni Bookings editor: Jay Modi

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 121

ACCESSORIES

4

3 5

2 6

7

1

8

Hair accessories are going beyond the schoolyard and doubling up as stay-at-home favourites to keep wispy strands in place 1. ‘William’ beaded headband, Shrimps, 13,025 2. Hairpin, Deborah Pagani, 5,200 3. ‘Eden’ pink headband, Joey & Pooh X Payal Singhal, 2,999 4. Floral scrunchie, Fendi, 17,400 5. Rose gold silk hairband, Dame Essentials, 2,995 6. ‘Daisy’ bow, Lelet NY, 9,500 7. Satin turban headband, Versace, 17,400 8. Gold-tone slides, Jennifer Behr, 11,040

COURTESY @DUALIPA/INSTAGRAM

Hold it together

JUST IN

Stop and smell the roses A look inside the world’s first scented bag. By Praachi Raniwala

T

hought Fendi’s famous Baguette couldn’t get more iconic? Think again. In December last year, the Italian fashion house added another charm to its coveted It-bag with the launch of the FendiFrenesia Yellow, a one-of-a-kind scented Baguette line. The idea was to create a synaesthetic experience by adding unexpected sensory dimensions to the bag. Round deux comes in the form of FendiFrenesia Pink, which includes regular and nano-sized Baguettes as well as a card case, all crafted from Fendi’s signature Selleria Cuoio Romano leather. The accompanying eau de parfum, interpreted by master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian (cofounder of his eponymous fragrance house), is floral, fruity and cheerful, to complement the rosy hue of the bag. But there’s a twist. After tapping into touch, smell and sight with its yellow edition, the brand has now collaborated with studioAIRA! to create a visual and sonorous interpretation of the FendiFrenesia Pink fragrance, aptly dubbed The Sound of Fragrance. Silvia Venturini Fendi, artistic director of Fendi accessories and menswear, talks to Vogue India about the sentiment behind the scent.

WHIFF OF AN IDEA

“Fendi has always been experimenting, especially with accessories. The Baguette

FendiFrenesia Yellow and Pink Scented Collection, Fendi, price on request

was conceived as a manifesto of individuality, the first accessory to have its own name. A bag is so feminine. Like a woman’s best friend, it holds her secrets and her life in it. And a fragrance is one of the most personal choices for a woman. Thus, the idea of also having a scent dedicated to this bag would make it even more special and unique.”

THE SCENT OF A WOMAN

THE RIGHT NOTES

SMELLS LIKE NOSTALGIA

“The fruity musk notes of the scent are first codified into instruments, turning the fragrance into a sound. The shape of the wave generated by the melody then draws animated 3D curves, resulting in The Sound of Fragrance, a visual and sonorous representation of the FendiFrenesia Pink fragrance.”

“The FendiFrenesia Baguette’s fragrance is going to inform your fragrance, so it’s going to be interesting to see what happens. You will open a bag that already has a scent, but will place your own things there, so the smell is going to transform itself with personal notes and create a unique sensory experience.”

“I remember when I played with my mother’s clothes as a little girl. I would open her wardrobe and could immediately feel her there because it smelled of her. It’s like a contemporary boudoir memory—in the end, things immediately belong to you in a way when they have your smell.” ■ www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 123

Ready, set, glow Once you get a taste of the Tilbury Touch, you’re in it for the long haul. Ahead of the brand’s India launch, Charlotte Tilbury speaks to Avanti Dalal about how she puts it all together

C

harlot te Tilbury loves the word darling. Hello darling, good afternoon darling, you look lovely darling. It’s why her makeup chair is the most positive place to be. Just ask her bevy of celebrity friends— Kate Moss, Amal Clooney, Cara Delevingne, Blake Lively—and they’ll attest to leaving it brighter and significantly happier. In her 27-year career as a makeup artist (which began in the heyday of the ’90s supermodel era), Tilbury has worked her magic backstage, on photo shoots and for the red carpet, a schedule that kept her ultra-busy until 2013, when she launched her namesake beauty brand to give that same formula to her fans.

124

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

There’s nothing formulaic about the looks she creates, though—burnished and siren-like for some, romantic and ingénueesque for others, each one celebrating allout glamour. Think: glowing skin, plump lips, high cheekbones and flirty eyes. Indian beauty consumers have similar goals too—creating standout makeup looks that’ll highlight their best features. Enter Charlotte Tilbury Beauty—with 44 foundation shades and a lipstick to match everyone—which launches in India with Nykaa in December. “My mantra is to give everyone the right makeup so they can conquer the world. It is my mission to share this power with the world so everyone can feel like the most beautiful version

“We all need our skincare routines to help us carve out the time for a moment of well-being and calm”

EXCLUSIVE FAMOUS FIVE

You’ve seen these products splashed all over Instagram, in best-of reviews, YouTube tutorials and on everyone’s vanity—and now you can add them to your cart too

PHOTO: MARIO TESTINO. STYLING: LUCINDA CHAMBERS. HAIR: SAM MCKNIGHT. MAKEUP: CHARLOTTE TILBURY. SET DESIGN: JACK FLANAGAN. DESIGN MANUFACTURER: SYDNEY EVAN

Charlotte’s Magic Serum Crystal Elixir: “The magic matrix of supercharged ingredients awakens your skin’s potential for a tighter, more refined, lifted look.”

Walk of No Shame Matte Revolution Lipstick: “It’s not just a beautiful colour. It enhances natural beauty, makes your complexion glow, your eyes look brighter and your lips look fuller.”

of themselves every day,” she confirms, as she talks trends, tricks and tools, and why it’s important to wear makeup often.

LOOKING FORWARD

“Glowing skin is going to have a big moment in 2021. It’s all about that real, fresh, naturally glowing, hydrated and gorgeouslooking complexion. During the last few months, I’ve been giving myself facials at home using my supercharged skincare products and seeing such a visible improvement in my skin.”

SKIN FIRST

“I think people will spend more time on their beauty routines, especially when it comes to skincare. We all need our skincare routines to help us carve out the time for a moment of well-being and calm.”

MAKEUP DIARY

“My lockdown makeup routine has been exactly the same, darling. I still put on makeup every day, even while I’m at home, because it makes me feel good. Makeup is empowering and you can give yourself an instant mind makeover to set yourself up for the day. I believe it is like a portal into a world of your best self. If you look good you feel good, and the world responds to you in a powerful, positive way. Lipstick is happiness in a tube. People will say, ‘Charlotte, I have no time for makeup, especially

Airbrush Flawless Finish: “This powder blurs and smoothes and glides on like silk (while helping prevent excess shine) and brighten the look of your complexion.”

Charlotte’s Magic Cream: “I created this product backstage while working with supermodels, to instantly transform their skin, making it look more plump, dewy and hydrated.”

Pillow Talk Push Up Lashes! Mascara: “It gives you instant volume, length, stretch and a 24-hour vertical lift effect.”

with deadlines looming or kids screaming,’ and I’ll always tell them to just take five minutes out of their day to work a very easy but mood-boosting look into their daily routine.”

WHEN INSPIRATION STRIKES

“The first beauty product I remember using was mascara when I was 13. People reacted to me in a very different and more positive way. I felt instantly more confident, more beautiful and more empowered. It was mascara that showed me the power of makeup, so I have been obsessed with lashes since. So, after 28 years of tinkering, we created the Pillow Talk Push Up Lashes! Mascara to give you the glossiest, strongest-looking, separated, voluminous lashes ever.”

DEC

THE IT LIST WHO WHAT WHERE

Evening style REVAMP INSIDE LONDON’S SECRET PARTY HOUSE

FASHION’S extraordinary year HOW TO WEAR GLITTER

Kate’s world

SHOT BY DAVID BAILEY, MARIO TESTINO AND TIM WALKER

DEC

FASHION’S extraordinary year

THE IT LIST WHO WHAT WHERE

OF MUSES AND MODELS

“Kate Moss has that hypnotic, magical magnetism that changes the frequency when she walks into the room. One of my favourite shoots we’ve done together was back in 2002 for British Vogue—Castaway Kate. I gave Kate a bronzed, radiant look that was all about youthful-looking skin, fresh-faced freckles and a nude lip. It kickstarted a new beauty trend for bronzed, beautiful skin, freckles and nude lips, and inspired me to later create a lipstick colour in homage to her called Nude Kate.” ■

Evening style REVAMP HOW TO WEAR GLITTER

INSIDE LONDON’S SECRET

PARTY HOUSE

Kate’s world SHOT BY DAVID BAILEY, MARIO TESTINO AND TIM WALKER

GLOWING GODDESS: A bronzed and radiant Kate Moss made up by Charlotte Tilbury for British Vogue, December 2014

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 125

KIT

Miracle mushrooms

Slathering fungi on your face brings the promise of smaller pores and improved moisture retention. You may want to save some from your kitchen

DO IT YOURSELF

THE MASK

1. The Face Shop Real Nature Lingzhi Face Mask, 100 This sheet mask is drenched with lingzhi mushroom extracts that will improve the resilience of saggy skin, fight wrinkles and give your face the TLC it needs after a long day.

Packed with vitamin D, selenium and antioxidants, this mask will protect your skin from getting inflamed and keep your pores in check INGREDIENTS: 1 teaspoon powdered reishi mushroom 1 teaspoon manuka honey 1/4 teaspoon apple cider vinegar 1/4 teaspoon warm water

THE MAKEUP

2. Charlotte Tilbury Magic Foundation, 3,000 With concentrated mushroom extracts that firm and tighten, along with antioxidant-rich vitamin C and plumping hyaluronic acid spheres, this foundation not only assures a smooth base but also keeps your skin hydrated and protected.

METHOD: Mix all the ingredients in a bowl. Apply the mixture (over a sink) to your face, avoiding the eye area. Leave it on for 10 to 15 minutes. Rinse with warm water and use a wet washcloth to remove any residual honey. Pat your skin dry and apply your regular skincare products. Repeat two to three times a week to reveal calm and beautiful skin.

THE SERUM

3. Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate, 4,800 With botanical extracts of reishi mushrooms and iris root, this serum will help your skin defend itself against the daily damage caused by the sun and pollution, revealing healthier layers over time.

THE NIGHT DETOX

4. Limese Purifying Ampoule, 1,950 Get this potent solution that is formulated with MC-Glucan, a purified extract that comes from a special strain of mushroom mycelia, for its antiinflammatory and skin immunityboosting properties. Mixed with sustainably harvested seaweed, it will work overnight to soothe skin and clean clogged pores.

2 4 1

GETTY IMAGES

3

“Mushrooms are rich in antioxidants and are known to be highly anti-inflammatory. They can be beneficial in treating rosacea, eczema and breakouts” —D R G EET I K A MI T TA L G U PTA , D E R M ATOLO GI ST

FITNESS BIKER CHIC Styles to add to your do-everything-fromhome closet

Short story

With a specialised workout to nail athleisure’s favourite trend, your booty will be the best accessory to your biker shorts. By Priyanka Ghura Kuka

1

I

t really does feel like we’re in a fashion time machine. Just like fanny packs and mom jeans, biker shorts are back. They’ve become an essential part of our comfort-over-everything wardrobe while staying home, working out or getting groceries. Follow Sydney-based trainer Tanya Poppett’s full-body workout to get into these clingy bottoms and go from body-conscious to body-confident while in them. Note: each set follows an ascending ladder. With every new set, the repetitions increase. Every set starts with one rep of each exercise. The next set is two reps, then three, four and finishing at five. Once you hit five reps of each exercise, rest for a minute and go again for a total of four rounds.

Set one:

1.a) Reverse burpee Get your heart rate up by rolling onto your back and bringing your knees close to your chest. Use the momentum from your legs to stand up.

COURTESY @BEYONCE/INSTAGRAM

1.b) Regular burpee It might not be your favourite, but burpees burn serious calories and build endurance.

Set two:

Alternate legs at the start of each round (two rounds per side; four rounds total) 2.a) Single-leg hinge Keep the belly button in and ribs pulled down, with a slight tuck of the tail. Bend forward towards the ground with one leg

2

3

1. Stretch jersey shorts, Beach Riot, 5,800 2. FF-monogram jersey shorts, Fendi, 22,055 3. Bermuda cycling shorts, Zara, 990

standing, keeping the knee soft as you fold at the hips. Make sure you level the hips when you move back to starting position. 2.b) Reverse lunge To strengthen the legs, particularly the quads and the glutes.

Set three:

3.a) Narrow squat Similar to a regular squat, but instead of spreading the knees wide, keep them tight together. 3.b) Side lunge This takes the body through lateral movement rather than forward and back. Do alternate sides at the start of each.

Set four:

4.a) Moving plank Begin with your hands in a high plank, wrists stacked under shoulders. The ribs tight with a slight tuck of the tail. Move down to a low plank, replacing the hands with your elbows. Hold this for a second, then move back to your starting position. Aim to keep the hips still as you move. The key to this plank variation is to use your core muscles to resist the urge to rotate. 4.b) T-Plank rotations Starting with a high plank, keep one hand on the floor as you pull the other hand up and rotate into a side plank position. Keep the hips lifted as you hold this position for a second. Repeat this on the opposite side for one rep. This plank variation helps strengthen your core. ■

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 127

FRAGRANCE

Sisterhood of the travelling scents They’ll act as souvenirs of places you know and love, or a symbol of the trips you’re yet to take. Go forth and conquer your wanderlust through these perfumes. You may even find a whiff of fresh perspective while you’re at it. By Avanti Dalal Illustrated by ADITI DEO

Louis Vuitton California Dream EDP (100ml), 20,400

D.S. & Durga Jazmín Yucatan EDP (50ml), 12,800

Jo Malone London Vetiver & Golden Vanilla Cologne Intense (100ml), 11,800

Yves Saint Laurent Atlas Garden EDP (75ml), 12,800

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Orange Soleia EDT (125ml), 9,150

128

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

SPOTLIGHT

“I was never really up for the good-looking-guy roles, because I’ve always been quite awkward when meeting people”

Hey, good lookin’ The sexiest sound in the world? The faint, fuzzy friction of Robert Pattinson’s facial hair as it brushes the receiver on the other end of the line. The second sexiest: his thoughts on beauty. By Brennan Kilbane A lot of your film roles can be described as canonically handsome men. What’s it like to be superlatively hot? [Laughs] It’s weird. I was never really up for the good-looking-guy roles, because I’ve always been quite awkward when meeting people. My Harry Potter role was a good-looking guy, and it was a shock that it was quite easy to get. And then in Twilight, [Edward is] beautiful. When I turned up for the audition, I had done a job where I’d dyed my hair black, but I had an inch and a half of roots, and I had waxed my body. And then I had a few months where I’d been drinking beer all day, so I had this hairless, chubby body. I looked like a baby with a wig on. [Laughs] After I did Twilight, [my friends said,] “Oh, you’re posing all of the time,” and I’m like, “What are you talking about? I’m just

standing. And none of you thought I was good looking two years ago. What does the new Dior fragrance smell like? [Pattinson has been the face of Dior Homme fragrance since 2013.] I hardly ever wear fragrances. If I wear a fragrance, I find it quite overbearing. But this one, for some reason, you don’t really notice you’re wearing it. I can never really describe it. People are like, “Is it woody smelling?” But I don’t really know what wood smells like. It definitely makes me feel more awake. There’s something fresh about it. How do you apply fragrance when you do wear it? I mean, are there different ways? My dad always used to put it on his hair. And I had

an ex-girlfriend who sprayed a little cloud of perfume and shimmied around in it. I like the idea of that. What are the best and worst smells in the world to you? Definitely the scent of when you’re in love with someone, and the smell is incredible. It brings out an animal side of being human. And the worst smell…I don’t really mind grimy stuff. I love the smell of things people really hate, but burning hair is revolting. How would you describe how you smell? Lots of people tell me I smell like a crayon. Like you’re made of wax? Yes, like I’m embalmed. ■ www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 129

PICKS

Kiro Live-In Creamy Matte Lipstick - Gold Dust, Pink Ginger, 850

THE CLEAN MAKEUP LINE

Lipsticks that moisturise and highlighters that soothe—Kiro, the newest entrant in the home-grown beauty category, makes its makeup with ingredients like jojoba, avocado, shea butter, and vitamins C and E. The non-toxic range is 100 per cent vegan and cruelty-free. Bonus points for the magnetic bullet tops of the lipsticks so they only colour our lips and not the insides of our bags.

For keeps

Everything that deserves your attention and shelf space this month

THE BEJEWELLED MASK

Masking will never go out of style. With Maskeraide’s Crystal Clear mini sheet masks, you’ll feel no less than a shining star. They come in the form of gemstone patches that can be applied on areas of concern. These little jewel patches will help soothe, brighten and hydrate the skin. (Maccaron.in)

Maskeraide Brightening Crystal Mini Masks, 209

THE BEAUTY FRIDGE

Celebrity Fridge, 7,000

When brimming with sheet masks, complex creams and rows of serums, a mini skincare fridge can easily become your skincare saviour. Glow by Tressmart launched Celebrity Fridge, which comes in pretty pastels and two temperature settings so your precious products don’t go bad and stay fresh longer.

THE ULTRA-NOURISHING HAIR CARE REGIMEN

Haircare solutions to break the monotony of your daily routine Kérastase’s K Water claims to be the first in-salon treatment with lamellar technology, which instantly activates upon contact to create a glassy surface, making your hair more fluid and shiny. The service, available at Kérastase salons, follows three steps: Shampoo, K Water application (to be rinsed out immediately), and a texturising product followed by a blow-dry. AT HOME: Curated for all hair types, including curly and chemically treated hair and textures, L’Oréal Paris’s Extraordinary Oil Serum promises maximum utility. With a blend of six floral oils (lotus, tiare, rose, flax, camomile and sunflower, the serum can be used as a pre-shampoo ritual, an overnight treatment, a heat protectant or a finishing and styling serum. ■ 130

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

L’Oréal Paris Extraordinary Oil Serum, 499

Kérastase K Water In-Salon Treatment, 1,200

—COMPILED BY SANJANA SALUNKHE

ALFONSO VIDAL-QUADRAS/GALLERY STOCK

AT THE SALON: It’s time to extend the Korean glass-skin goals to your hair.

BLEND OF PARADISE

I

n the yen to experience the exotic, we chase horizons unseen. Not realising that the heavens we seek reside inside. In the words of designers Shivan & Narresh, “We hold within us the exotic palette of paradise. A rich, creamy, fruity and floral melange that holds sway over the senses.” Blending this inherent ethos with their oeuvre of bold colours and bright patterns, the Limited Edition Pack paints visions of magical realms evoked by aromas. Open it and the Taste of Paradise pours forth.

Y

R

A

THE LAST WORD IN TRAVEL OCT NOV 2020 | 200

th

NI

ON

COLL

OR S ED CT

10

N

I IT

E

THE LAST WORD IN TRAVEL OCT-NOV 2020 | 200

VERSA

INDIAN EDITION

10

NI

Y

R

E COLL

A

N

th

ON

10

I IT

OR’S ED CT

VERSA

INDIAN EDITION

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

WARRIORS 2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

LEADER OF THE YEAR

KK SHAILAJA During her tenure, Kerala’s forward-thinking minister of health and social justice has adeptly handled first the infectious Nipah virus, and now the pandemic. Today, her name features among the small set of women in power who are lauded globally for their response to the crisis. By Manju Sara Rajan Photographed by K R SUNIL

T

here are five of us at the table, a party of unlikely companions. At the head sits my trusted taxi driver Sudheer T, I am to his right, then Dr Latheesh KV, a public health official; on the opposite side, KK Shailaja, the minister for health, social justice and women and child development in Kerala’s Left Democratic Front-led government, and K Bhaskaran, the minister’s husband. We are seated around an oval table at the minister’s home, eating a late lunch on the first day of the Onam holiday season: two kinds of matta rice, turmeric-hued nadan fish curry, fried river fish, two kinds of vegetables and three different payasams for dessert, laced with the twang of north Kerala’s Malabar region of Kannur. Sudheer and I have been to many places over the years, but we had never shared a table, and it is for the first time, as guests of KK Shailaja, that we sit and eat together. Shailaja has come home after months away in Thiruvananthapuram, the state capital. When I enter, I notice the boundary wall surrounding her two-storey home is short; over the tops of the potted bougainvillea you can see the health minister sitting in the verandah with her husband. There’s no security detail or mark of pomp. Just two things give a hint of affiliation and significance of the household: the Kerala government-issued Toyota Innova that looks more impressive because of the narrow driveway and a flagstaff with the white-sickle crimson-red flag of the Communist Party. “Have you ever seen a chenkodi in front of a house?” asks her husband. ‘Chenkodi’ is a portmanteau Malayalam word for ‘red flag’. “It is there because it represents everything that our life is about,” he tells me. To hear this couple tell their story, leftist politics and its egalitarian approach towards many things—from their marriage to their hospitality—informs the way they approach the world and run their home. It is this outlook that has transformed this former school physics teacher into a global icon in India’s fight against COVID-19. > 135

"There’s no time to be scared. More than fear, I feel an enthusiasm to get involved”

Over these past five years, chief minister Pinarayi Vijayan’s government has dealt with unprecedented crises. A few Biblical disasters short of the whole list, there have been two floods, a cyclone, and two infectious disease outbreaks, first the Nipah virus in 2018 and now COVID-19. The health department’s early planning and prescient action saw Vijayan enforce a partial shutdown, even before the WHO categorised COVID-19 as a pandemic, and weeks before India’s central government announced a lockdown. That swift action brought down cases in Kerala to ‘zero’ for a time, and Shailaja was hailed as ‘The Coronavirus Slayer’. Till, of course, travel restrictions lifted, lockdown ended and numbers once again began to escalate. “Kerala was criticised for overreacting, but we knew it was very infectious. We don’t have the resources to manage large amount of patients so we had to make sure numbers were low,” she says. At the time of this issue going to press, Kerala has 92,164 active cases and has registered 906 deaths, while 1,60,253 people have recovered. “Right now, when a patient goes to a hospital, there are beds available, nobody is being turned away from lack of capacity. We have to maintain that,” she adds. In June, Shailaja was honoured by the UN for Kerala’s effective management of the pandemic, and even today, she is counted among a handful of women leaders (like New Zealand’s Jacinda Ardern, Germany’s Angela Merkel and Taiwan’s Tsai Ing-wen) who responded accurately to the crisis. The WHO has also commended Kerala’s health ministry for its work in prevention and control of non-communicable diseases. This an unprecedented achievement for a health system in a state with a weak exchequer.

A WOMAN’S WAY

The 63-year-old is known across Kerala as Shailaja Teacher, a sobriquet that alludes to her early career as an educator. Her appearance is without distractions; sari always pleated precisely and accessorised with perfunctory pieces of gold jewellery. Ask a question and she answers in detail, in chaste Malayalam, giving every detail, pausing to ask if a reference is clear. She’s often with a little notebook, taking notes while a person is speaking. Dr Latheesh KV, my lunch companion, is the 38-year-old state programme manager in the National Urban Health Mission. He 136

has worked with Shailaja for four years on a state-level project to improve primary healthcare centres. “When she got this portfolio, she educated herself on different programmes, learned the hierarchies of the department, updated herself on the WHO regimen, and made it a point to get to know everyone. She made us believe this is a team effort.” From finding funds for projects to ensuring staffing demands are met, she is credited with being hands-on and action-oriented. Shailaja spends much time talking to all sorts of people up and down the hierarchy of departments under her watch, cajoling, lauding, chiding—basically paying attention to their needs. “When she notices someone make a mistake, she never tells them off in front of anyone. That kind of sensitive management has really helped,” notes Dr Latheesh.

FAMILY STYLE

Shailaja has also developed a reputation as a minister willing to lead from ground zero. When the Nipah virus took hold in a village in Kozhikode, she went there, so that frightened villagers wouldn’t flee, and stayed on to direct hospital services. In August, when an Air India flight coming from the UAE skidded off the Kozhikode airport runway killing 20 people, Shailaja visited the site immediately, despite the threat of COVID-19. She had to self-quarantine for two weeks upon her return. “There’s no time to be scared,” she says, “More than fear, I feel an enthusiasm to get involved.” Shailaja’s management style and the way she has approached the challenges of these last four years have been honed by decades of work in the Communist Party and its influence on her family. Her grandmother, uncles, husband and she are all battle-scarred social activists and demonstrators, though she’s the only one to become a successful politician. “My first memory of politics is holding my grandmother’s hand at a political meeting. I didn’t know what was going on, but that atmosphere stayed with me.” In the early 2000s, a police officer hurled a brick into a crowd of protesters objecting to police action against a tribal settlement, and hit the future health minister on the head. “She had six stitches,” recalls Bhaskaran. “But when you’re in the middle of a heated situation, you don’t care what the police will do, you know you will get hit.”

BOOKINGS EDITOR: JAY MODI

TROUBLED TIMES

THIS IS US

Bhaskaran and Shailaja met as young party workers and married in 1981, uniting two families with similar political leanings. At 69, he is a retired school headmaster and, probably because they first met as colleagues, she still refers to him as Maashu, an epithet commonly used in relation to male teachers. Theirs is a very unique partnership, especially for Kerala, which has a distressingly high number of educated unemployed women, yet females are rarely seen in positions of power. In fact, Kerala has never had a woman as chief minister. In the Communist Party of India (Marxist), it is the leadership that decides who stands for elections. In 1996, Shailaja was offered a ticket from the Koothuparambu constituency, considered a bastion of senior party leaders. She won, and that victory marked the beginning of her now vaunted career. “When we got married, Maashu told everyone, ‘She goes out, just like me; there’s no difference.’ I’d finish from school, where I was teaching, then attend party meetings and when I came home, my mother-in-law

would ask me how it went and we would discuss it, so there was always support,” says Shailaja. Their sons, Sobhith and Lasith, were brought up in a close-knit extended family unit that included the couple’s mothers and Bhaskaran’s sister. “I missed a lot of the dayto-day of my kids’ childhood years, but the family was there and we managed,” she shares. Today, while her younger son works in Kozhikode, the older one is an engineer based in Dubai. Bhaskaran has largely continued to live in Kannur, over 450km away from Thiruvananthapuram, where Shailaja serves her term in office. Politics is not a nine-to-five job, and since they’re all spread out, the family has created a routine around her wayward work hours: they have a video call to check in together, often around midnight. Bhaskaran is a Kerala history buff who recalls dates and incidents with Wikipedian efficiency and he recently began writing short stories with historical characters. When she’s away from home, he messages her a copy of his stories. “I read it at night after work. If I haven’t read it then he feels bad. He’s very talented, maybe when he’s got enough of them we can make it into a book,” says the minister who has authored two non-fiction titles. Shailaja’s Onam trip home was the first in many months, but she brought a little bit of work back with her. In between our conversations and attending to her grandchild, Dr Latheesh had pencilled in a video call with a medical team. “He wants me to meet them and say hello,” she says. As we leave her to the call and get ready to depart, Bhaskaran gives Sudheer and me some going-away gifts: passion fruit from the garden and a COVID-19 kit with sanitiser and masks. n Manju Sara Rajan is co-authoring a book with KK Shailaja on Kerala’s public health system and the state’s COVID response, releasing on Juggernaut Books in 2021 137

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

VOGUE WARRIORS e ongoing pandemic has not only changed power dynamics, it has made us realise that the extraordinary lives within the ordinary. In the past few months, a new front line emerged. No longer were the most admired and glamorous jobs deemed the most important. Instead we turned to those from the fields of medicine, law and aviation, among others. And while this gallery of five essential workers is merely a microcosm of the army of thoughtful citizens who came to our country’s aid, it is our small way of paying tribute to the many unnamed heroes of 2020. is special category represents the millions-strong workforce in India who put on their uniforms and set aside the fear of contagion to go out and help. eir selflessness and dedication to duty has made us believe once again in that most basic human trait we had almost forgotten: kindness.

138

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

WARRIOR OF THE YEAR

CAPTAIN SWATI RAVAL Five things to know about India’s first female rescue pilot during the pandemic. By Mihika Agarwal

O

Photographed by ADIL HASAN

n March 22, Captain Swati Raval made history as the first female rescue pilot to lead a mission during the pandemic. The 40-year-old evacuated a group of 263 Indians from Rome, a former COVID-19 hotspot, as commander of the country’s national carrier Air India. And even though her work is etched in our country’s chronicles, there’s a lot more to this mother of two: Who run the world? Girls! Valuing female camaraderie, Raval looks to dispel the notion that there’s space for only one woman leader in a room. “It’s a misconception that women turn their backs on each other,” says Raval, whose female coworkers were her loudest cheerleaders when she returned from her rescue mission. Guiding light “People think being a pilot is glamorous,” says Raval, who once helped a friend’s daughter understand why her intentions to be one were misplaced. “I’m a good pilot because I like flying. If you get into this for money or glamour, you won’t do it justice.”

Lights, camera, action “I know many people don’t like him, but I find him entertaining,” says the movie buff of her favourite actor, Salman Khan. Raval also loves South Indian films such as The Son Of Satyamurthy trilogy and Bahubali (2015). Doing our bit Raval has a deep appreciation for public figures who step up to help by using their influence. “I look up to Terence Lewis because he funded a student’s entire tuition without bragging about it. And to Sonu Sood for his efforts in supporting migrant workers.” For the love of food From dhokla to paani puri, Raval has been using her downtime to get creative in the kitchen. She even distributed a series of home-cooked meals to her neighbours, at minimum cost, during the lockdown. > 139

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

WARRIOR OF THE YEAR

RESHMA MOHANDAS

Five things to know about the nurse who played a significant role in the recovery of two of India’s oldest COVID-19 patients. By Akshaya Pillai

R

Photographed by VISHNU MOHANDAS

eshma Mohandas was back on COVID-19 duty three months after contracting and defeating the virus. The 32-year-old nurse, who works at the Kottayam Government Medical College, rose to fame for her willingness to return to work, her role in helping two of India’s oldest COVID-19 patients (93 and 88 years old) recover, and her unwavering faith in Kerala’s healthcare system. Here’s more: Pen to paper To keep negativity at bay in the hospital, she wrote a short story, Vilikathe Vanna Kootukaaran (The Uninvited Guest). “My intention was to pass time and lighten the mood. I was surprised when leading Malayalam newspapers carried the story,” she says.

Nature-nurture Apart from terrace gardening chillies and tomatoes, Mohandas is also fond of breeding fish; she has over 15 types of guppy. “My husband has to feed them every time I’m on duty. Initially he was reluctant, but now I think he loves them more than I do.” Food for thought “Even while on duty, all of us nurses chip in and Swiggy something new during our break. Good food is a stress buster,” says the nurse. On the day we speak, her companions have ordered garlic naan and Mughlai chicken. She hates cooking, but together with her husband, says she will travel the lengths for the perfect biriyani. Leave a light on Her nyctophobia makes her uneasy in darkness and ill-lit spaces, and she sleeps with a dim light on. “It wasn’t practical to ask the hospital for a night light when I was quarantined for two weeks, so I would leave the light in the adjoining bathroom on instead.” Alternative path Mohandas has won many accolades, the most recent one being the Tomyas Award, but she never thought she would be in healthcare. It was her father who nudged her into being a nurse. “Ever since I was a kid, I wanted to be a teacher,” she says. 140

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

WARRIOR OF THE YEAR

REMA RAJESHWARI

Five things to know about the district police chief who was tasked with maintaining law and order during the lockdown. By Almas Khateeb

A

Photographed by HARSHA VADLAMANI

s the district police chief of Mahabubnagar in Telangana, Rema Rajeshwari doesn’t have much time to spare. In the early days of the pandemic, unverified WhatsApp forwards in her jurisdiction were rife with rumours on how to ‘kill’ the coronavirus, leading the focus away from strict personal hygiene, the use of masks and sanitisers, and, most importantly, the significance of self-isolation for those who were exposed to the virus. It fell upon the able shoulders of Rajeshwari and her team to ensure peace was maintained in her district, myths were debunked, and Mahabubnagar’s citizens were steadily updated with verified news that the cop would source when she wasn’t on the clock. Here’s more about the power woman behind the uniform: Born to be wild Rajeshwari was born and raised in Munnar. “I’m a mountain girl at heart,” she says, stating that no matter where she’s posted, she creates a garden or a small green space to remind her of home. In an alternate reality “If I hadn’t become a civil servant I would have been a writer and an environmental activist,” says Rajeshwari, crediting it to her upbringing amidst tea estates. A reader lives a thousand lives She is also a dedicated bookworm, and says, “If you were to lock me up in a room for the rest of my life, provide me with reading material and I’ll stay in there with a smile on my face.” Long live cinema Rajeshwari considers herself a cinephile. And while she favours oldies, period dramas, Padmarajan’s Malayalam classics, and Kurosova, “I don’t shy away from indulging in old Clint Eastwood and Meryl Streep films,” she says. Look backwards, live forward Her greatest learnings have been her grandmother’s teachings on resilience and leadership: “They have made me who I am today.” > 141

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

WARRIOR OF THE YEAR

DR KAMALA RAMMOHAN Five things to know about the assistant professor of pulmonary medicine at Government Medical College, iruvananthapuram. By Garima Gupta

W

hen Dr Kamala Rammohan left her home for the front lines, she knew it was part of an emergency assignment in one of Kerala’s medically ill-equipped districts. Now back home, the pulmonologist’s responsibilities may not be as urgent, but they are no less stressful. “It can be difficult to detach from work,” she says about her job and high-risk routine. Here is a peek into her life: Duty calls In the early days of the pandemic, Rammohan felt it was her responsibility to be front and centre, as respiratory diseases are her area of expertise. It wasn’t easy to leave her family, but she never flinched from travelling 12 hours amidst a nationwide lockdown. Learning to adapt In Kasargod, Rammohan (one of the two women in her team) and her colleagues were surprised to learn they were to set up an emergency COVID care centre from scratch in the teaching wing of the Kasargod Medical College. “But we came out with a feeling of having achieved something. It was exhilarating,” she says. What it takes Rammohan is living away from her high-risk parents and spends two weeks at a time doing COVID rounds. “Staying positive and planning the day ahead to avoid getting stressed is important. Meditation, a proper diet and sleeping well helps too,” she says. Switching off Cycling and comic books (from Asterix to Amar Chitra Katha) have been her stress-busters. While commuting or cooking, her playlist keeps her company. “I listen to everything from Arijit Singh to Gulzar. Sometimes even K-pop, thanks to my daughter.” Women of substance For her, every woman has an extraordinary story. “My mother, teachers, relatives, friends, colleagues and daughter have taught me various aspects of life, be it unconditional love, knowledge, wisdom, strength, courage, compassion, resilience, or the zest for life.” 142

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

WARRIOR OF THE YEAR

RICHA SHRIVASTAVA CHHABRA Five things to know about the woman who helped design over a million face shields for front-line and essential workers. By Sanjana Salunkhe

A

Photographed by VIKAS VASUDEV

s of May 15, 2020, Richa Shrivastava Chhabra and her team at Maker’s Asylum had crafted over a million laser-cut face shields through their communitydriven M19 initiative. What started as a small-scale, open-source design project in March soon turned into a campaign that cut across India’s cities, towns and villages, with volunteers coming together to support the healthcare community in India. And it was all spearheaded by Chhabra and her partner, who still receive messages of gratitude from healthcare workers. We take a look at her life and work: Little things Kids under five are not advised to wear masks. This led Chhabra and her team to create the M19 Junior Shields in June. “Till date, they have reached over 200 cities and towns in India,” she says. Living on the edge Chhabra loves the outdoors. “From bungee jumping to hiking to cycling, you name it, and I have done it,” says the 32-year-old trained paragliding pilot and diver. Goa calling To lead a more peaceful life and pursue their passions—art, cycling, diving and hiking—Chhabra and her husband moved to Goa, but they continue to make their face shields via a small team in Mumbai. “We plan to shift the production and manufacturing here in the next couple of months,” she says. Lesson plan The University of Cambridge is working on case studies on the M19 initiative and how distributed manufacturing helped scale its production in only 49 days. “The cases are still under review, but we couldn’t be more proud,” says Chhabra. The F word Chhabra’s views on feminism can be traced to the eighth grade, when she wrote a poem titled Woman. She believes in voicing her opinion, like her heroes Maya Angelou and Serena Williams. ■ 143

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

INDIA WOMEN’S NATIONAL FIELD HOCKEY TEAM 144

COURTESY HOCKEY INDIA

SPORTSWOMEN OF THE YEAR

TEAM OF CHAMPIONS The 2021 Olympic squad with chief coach Sjoerd Marijne (centre) and the rest of the coaching staff

Whether raising funds for migrant workers in distress, working on their fitness levels at home, learning English online whilst in lockdown, or getting back to training hard on the field, these young champions are not letting the challenges of COVID-19 come in the way of their goals. By Sheree Gomes Gupta

F

or the last four years, the India women’s national field hockey team has dreamt and worked towards a single goal—to bring home an Olympic medal and make India proud. They had a lot to prove to override their performance at the Rio De Janeiro 2016 Olympic Games (they were eliminated in the group stage after qualifying for the same, for the first time since 1980). It was a huge blow for the team, but they were ready for a comeback under the steely guidance of Dutch coach Sjoerd Marijne. Then, when the players were at their peak and raring to go, the nationwide lockdown in India was announced, and soon after, the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games were postponed to 2021. Given the hardships that these young women had to overcome to get to this point— not just dealing with the disappointment of their last Olympic outing and the tedious > 145

training that followed, but ever since each of them chose hockey as a career—you will understand the gut-wrenching disappointment that engulfed the Sports Authority of India (SAI) camp in Bengaluru when news of the delay in games and a halt in training was declared. “We broke down, the team was not in the right mental space for a few days,” confesses vice-captain and goalkeeper Savita Punia, during a telephone interview. (The team is now back in training at SAI after the forced four-month break). But this is a team of champions, both on and off the field. They come from economically weaker sections of society and have worked against all odds to secure their spots in the national team. “We decided to look at the silver lining—we now have one more year to practise and prepare,” says Rani Rampal, captain of the current squad. They went a step further, launching the #GIVE100FORCOVID on the crowdfunding platform Ketto, raising 20 lakh for migrant workers stranded at various locations without food, water or shelter, when the lockdown was first implemented. “Each one of us in the team knows what it’s like to go hungry or not know when our next meal will be. We could feel their pain,” says Rampal, whose own family of five had to rely on the daily wages of her cart-puller father to survive. “As a team, we wanted to help them financially, but through a way that we know best.” A 15-day fitness challenge was launched in late April, with each player posting exercises ranging from Spiderman push-ups to pogo hops, and tagging 10 people who donated 100 once they accepted the challenge on their respective social media platforms. “Exercise has a way of infusing positivity and that is the kind of sentiment we wanted to spread with this initiative,” adds Rampal, who dedicated her recent Rajiv Gandhi Khel Ratna award not just to her team but also to the country’s COVID warriors. “Right from our doctors and nurses to our police force, BMC workers, and so many others who have been working selflessly for us all at the cost of their own health.” Coming back to the current training and mindset of the players, coach Marijne says that the team (several of whom have won 146

prestigious national and international awards in the recent past for their exceptional performances) is focused and hungry for a win. “They’ve had a good break with their families and have come back more determined than ever. I see a huge change in each of their personalities since I took over as coach in 2017. They each have this sense of ownership now. They know their responsibilities so well, that even when they were home these last few months, they stuck to their strict diets and followed the workouts devised for each one of them while ensuring they kept safe,” adds Marijne, who instilled strong self-belief in the players after their confidence took a beating after Rio. In addition to spending time on in-depth research on their opponents from the different countries participating in the Olympics (each had to make a presentation on their findings to the coaching staff), the girls, who come primarily from rural areas and non-English speaking schools, signed up for English lessons online to help them communicate better not just with their coach, but also with the international players they meet at tournaments. Being a close-knit team, it hasn’t been all work and no play. “We had a pizza party quite recently, though most of us barely had any as we are all very mindful of our fitness, but we danced and did a lot of masti. We are like family and we keep motivating each other,” says Punia. Make no mistake though, apart from the occasional spot of leisure, practice is on, in full swing, and the team has its eye trained firmly on the most coveted prize in the world. She adds, “It was tough for us to stay away from the hockey stick and the ball for so long. We’re all overjoyed to be back on the field. It’s where we belong.” n The India women’s national field hockey team currently ranked ninth in the world, consists of Rani Rampal (captain), Savita Punia (vice-captain), Bichu Devi Kharibam, Deep Grace Ekka, Gurjit Kaur, Jyoti, Lalremsiami, Lilima Minz, Manpreet Kaur, Monika, Namita Toppo, Navjot Kaur, Navneet Kaur, Neha Goyal, Nikki Pradhan, Nisha, Rajni Etimarpu, Rajwinder Kaur, Reena Khokhar, Salima Tete, Sharmila Devi, Sonika, Sushila Chanu Pukhrambam, Udita, and Vandana Katariya

COURTESY HOCKEY INDIA

“More and more girls will take up sports when they see role models like the India women’s national field hockey team. I congratulate the team for their success so far and wish them the very best for all their endeavours in the future. I am sure they will make India proud” — SACHIN TENDULKAR

ALL-PLAY The team training hard at Sports Authority of India (SAI), Bengaluru

CHAMPIONS 2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

BUSINESS LEADER OF THE YEAR

KIRAN MAZUMDAR SHAW She’s India’s good-girl billionaire, who overcame rejection and gender bias and went on to lead one of the most successful biotechnology companies in the country. By Renuka Joshi Modi

I

n September this year, Biocon Limited’s executive chairperson Kiran Mazumdar Shaw was trending across the globe, and not for the usual business of pharma reasons. The 67-year-old Padma Shri and Padma Bhushan awardee became a viral sensation, pun not intended, when her blog chronicling her experience and recovery from COVID-19 made the rounds from Sydney to Spain (even being translated into Spanish). It’s mid-September when we speak and she has since recovered from the virus, jumping straight into a packed diary. Looking back, she says she was surprised at the attention but also thrilled. “I wanted to remove the stigma around being tested positive. I wanted people to know that even if you have the slightest symptoms, please go and test yourself. I know far too many people who have unnecessarily put themselves into a serious condition because they did not test and report themselves,” she tells me over a Zoom call from her home in Bengaluru, where she is staying with her husband, John, and her 89-year-old mother Yamini. “I had to be particularly careful, as my husband is a cancer patient and my mother is a cancer survivor,” she says. Just as she didn’t flinch from sharing her own COVID-19 experience to break stigma, she has used her experience and that of her family’s with the Big C to fund a 1,400-bed cancer facility in collaboration with Dr Devi Shetty, the founder of Narayana Health. Mazumdar Shaw has consistently made the professional personal, practising a more ‘compassionate capitalism’ and becoming one of the few pharma leaders with clear humanitarian goals.

REJECTION TO RETALIATION

But Mazumdar Shaw didn’t start out with a vision for pharma. The Pune-born, Bengaluru-raised girl grew up dreaming of becoming a brewmaster, just like her father > 148

“I prefer using the term ‘compassionate capitalism’... I like to invest in something where I can see the impact I have made”

Rasendra, a brewmaster at United Breweries. She went on to study her trade in Australia, but after qualifying, and returning to India as the country’s first female brewmaster, she received a rude shock. She recalls, “I was confident I would find a job without a problem. But that was not to be. I was rejected by the brewing industry in India. They felt it wasn’t a job for a woman. I faced gender bias very early on, but I retaliated by starting my own business.” She was still in her early twenties when a chance meeting with Leslie Auchincloss, an entrepreneur who wanted to start a biotechnology business in India, led her to make the transition from brewing to enzymes. And Biocon began life in a rented garage in 1978. The rest, as they say, is history. In the 40 years that followed, Biocon has evolved into a bio-pharmaceuticals company that focuses on diabetes, oncology and autoimmune diseases with an annual revenue of more than 5,500 crore. Not bad for a woman who, back when she first started, banks wouldn’t loan money to based on her gender. One can say that the entrepreneurial spirit is in her DNA. Mazumdar Shaw tells me, with more than a hint of pride in her voice, that her 89-year-old mother still runs the laundry business she began nearly 20 years ago. It’s one of the reasons she works hard to change the narrative around women in the workforce. “Women go through a gender bias for two reasons: first is because we allow society to dictate terms to us. And second, we don’t even try to fight it. If you look at all the women who are successful, they have fought for it. Look at what Kamala Harris said about her mother—she fought for it. All the women who work in Biocon are such smart women. And their families are so proud of them.” Today, nearly 30 per cent of Biocon’s scientists are women. Unsurprisingly, at the company, there is a big focus on mentorship and training to support women and women in leadership. Empowering not just a woman, but all the people that work alongside her, is the basis of Mazumdar Shaw’s leadership model and she prides herself on running an empowered creative organisation. “I like to focus on unlocking and unleashing the creative potential in people.” Clearly, the model has worked for Mazumdar Shaw. Biocon continues to be one of India Inc’s biggest success stories.

THE BUSINESS OF GIVING

As India’s richest self-made woman, this billionaire signed up to Bill and Melinda Gates’s Giving Pledge (a commitment where the

world’s wealthiest dedicate the majority of their wealth to philanthropy) in 2016. Mazumdar Shaw is focused on global healthcare, particularly in the developing world. But she doesn’t like being tagged a do-gooder, “I prefer using the term ‘compassionate capitalism’, because I like to invest in important transformational programmes, which makes a difference. Often, philanthropy is just about giving money to causes. I don’t like to do that. I want to alleviate poverty by educating the poor, skilling them, and focusing on health issues. I like to invest in something where I can see the impact I have made.” Mazumdar Shaw’s philanthropic efforts extend well beyond healthcare, with recipients of grants including, among many others, the Art and Photography Foundation India, the Mazumdar Shaw Centre for Translation Research which funds cancer research, Carnegie Mellon, and MIT. Shaw is also on the board at MIT and has been a former chairperson of the Indian Institute of Management. “Business leaders must also engage with policymaking on civic issues,” she says, reiterating a more intensive involvement than simply giving to charity. Mazumdar Shaw works with the Karnataka government not only on biotech policies, but also on industry and start-up policies and has been involved in the state’s COVID-19 response as well.

A WAY FORWARD

With a strong sense of duty to society, as the pandemic struck, Biocon stepped in and played its part. “We’re not a vaccination company, but we realised that one of our drugs, itolizumab, is effective in dealing with the cytokine storm that occurs in some COVID-19 cases, so that’s our contribution to the fight,” she says. The pandemic also made her realise, that as a company, Biocon needed to always be in a state of high preparedness and she is making use of this time to transform the company. But apart from the big life lessons, Mazumdar Shaw has been appreciating the simple joys of time at home with her family. She carries on juggling her many hats, from work and philanthropy to her personal mission of saving her city’s lakes. “You have to prioritise your time,” she says. “But you must always be willing to stay interested in new things and learn.” Currently, she’s most excited about taking time out for some much-needed self care: a trip to nearby Bandipur National Park and returning to the great outdoors. n 151

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

GLOBAL DESIGNER OF THE YEAR

SARAH BURTON While for a broader audience the creative director of Alexander McQueen will go down in history as the woman behind that famous wedding dress, for those who follow fashion, she has, with laser-sharp focus, been leading the discourse on crasmanship, a made-in-England label, and the empowerment of women through fashion. By Priyanka Khanna

M

ay of this year marked a decade of Sarah Burton taking over as creative director of British fashion house Alexander McQueen, where she had started as an intern in 1996, graduated to the head of womenswear in 2000, and at the time of Lee Alexander McQueen’s death, had been by his side for 14 years. Barely a year after she took creative control of the house, Burton undertook her most high-profile assignment—designing the wedding dress of Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, for her marriage to Prince William. In the days leading up to the wedding, the feverish speculation on the identity of the designer gripped fashion insiders and bookies alike. I remember clearly when a breathless news anchor, pleased with his investigative skills, proudly announced that it had to be Burton, a fact deduced by spotting a woman wearing Burton’s distinctive studded belt and flats entering The Goring Hotel in London. For a designer who chooses to fly under the radar, the experience and the media circus surrounding the royal wedding could only have been surreal. But that is far from Burton’s crowning achievement. In 2020, the conversations in fashion have centred around mindfulness—fashion that is conscious of resources, fashion that is inclusive of differences, fashion that is rooted in craft. But for Burton, these have long been the pillars of her narrative. When she took over from McQueen, she inherited a label steeped in dramatic storytelling, fantastical referencing and Gothic detailing. “The initial thing that I thought (when I assumed the creative director role) was that Lee was this storyteller and I was kind of good at finishing his sentences, but I realised I had to begin the sentences and it had to be about my stories,” she said to Vogue.com last year. And those stories are no less complex, layered as they are, navigating a constant collision of real and fantastical, man and machine, history and the future. Three years ago, she corralled her team into research trips to experience first-hand the vastness in the heritage, crafts and traditions across England, and translated that into collections that are proudly made in England, in thought as in technique. Her predecessor loved the idea of a warrior woman, and while she stands by that thought, Burton’s McQueen has a softness to it, one that’s no less powerful. “I really believe that a woman shouldn’t just have to dress like a man to feel strong. That’s why I love to play with tailoring mixed with a woman’s dress... I think that idea of strength and femininity are really important. I always like to say that in a way it’s almost like ‘soft >

152

COURTESY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

London-based Sarah Burton is Vogue India’s Global Designer of the Year

THE FUTURE OF CLOTHING Burton’s creative narrative is strongly focused on tradition and empowerment. She describes her clothes as ‘soft armour’.

“The McQueen woman is empowered, confident and individual. I think she speaks to all women” armour’ for women, so that you feel empowered, but not overwhelmed.” she said in the same interview. But this year has thrown a curveball for many creatives. Sally Singer, in a post-show review of Burton’s spring/summer 2020 collection, summed up the sentiments that will rise above the rest: “When you make things with the right values, when you treat the earth and its citizens and their traditions with care and respect, when you endeavour to reimagine what might once have been tossed aside or thrown away, when you take the time to truly care about every piece you create, you simply make better things.” And it’s for those very values and more, that Sarah Burton is Vogue India’s Global Designer of the Year. Priyanka Khanna: Your recent spring/summer 2020-21 collection was the first post lockdown. When you returned to the studio, what was the first thing you did? Sarah Burton: We formed a bubble and immediately started fitting the line we had designed and toiled over during lockdown. So much happens in fitting—it’s so important to see the clothes in three dimensions. Prior to that, we were all working from home, and I hadn’t realised how much I missed that interaction.

COURTESY ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

PK: What are the questions you’ve been grappling with when it comes to fashion at this time? SB: Fashion must reflect the times we live in. These are very strange times, but fashion remains a powerful form of self-expression. Of course, we will be travelling less and will do our best not to waste things. It’s important to be resourceful, to use everything we have. For both the men’s and women’s collections, I made a decision early on in lockdown to only use fabrics that we already had—print on them, reinvent them, make them feel new. It also made me aware of how much time things take to make, and to only make things I passionately believed in. PK: ‘Soft armour’, ‘feminine strength’...these are words that have been used to describe your aesthetic. I’m curious as to how you describe your work? SB: My work is about juxtapositions: feminine and masculine, tradition and innovation, vulnerability and strength. It is the tension between them that I find inspiring. The same is true of ‘soft armour’, a term I often use to describe our clothes. PK: You’ve always had a keen eye for craft—whether it was the intricacy of embroidery on dresses or reviving old methods of linen beetling. Will there be a greater affinity for craft as we move forward?

SB: I feel that the touch of the hand and the emotion that it brings to clothes has never been so important. We have always strived to preserve rare craft techniques whilst being innovative at the same time. Those techniques are precious and deserve to be sustained, but it’s also important to do things that are experimental and new. PK: Nature has been a mine of inspiration for you. Which are the most inspiring places? SB: I love the cities and countryside in the north of England where I grew up. I feel especially attached to them. I love the wild coastline of Cornwall and the windswept Scottish landscape. Most recently, we went to Wales and I was touched by the poetry of its folklore and the soul of its craft. PK: Your shows have always featured a diverse range of women. Tell us more about why your casting ties in with who the McQueen woman is. SB: The McQueen woman is empowered, confident and individual. I think she speaks to all women. PK: Tell us what the next generation of designers should be mindful of. SB: We have turned the top floor of our Old Bond Street London flagship store into an educational space. We use it as an open studio for learning and to help teach and support the next generation about design, unlocking the narrative behind a collection. The space features both current and archive looks and opens up the processes behind the clothes, providing a detailed resource for students. My design team hosts classes with groups of students from schools and colleges from all over the country (including Central Saint Martins), imparting knowledge, information and techniques that they can then apply to their work. My advice to them is to go with their gut instinct and do what feels true to them. PK: What is a principle that has guided you personally and professionally? SB: Work hard and never compromise. PK: It’s been a decade since you became creative director at McQueen. What would you have liked to tell your younger self? SB: I feel very privileged to do what I do, and I work with an incredibly talented team. We all feel fortunate to do a job we love. I would probably tell my younger self to keep pushing the boundaries on creativity. It’s important not to compromise ideals and beliefs. And that never seems truer than now. n 155

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

TECH LEADER OF THE YEAR

DEBJANI GHOSH In a year where COVID-19 bulldozed its way through businesses and crippled entire industries, NASSCOM, under the stewardship of its president, has secured India’s IT sector and its jobs. By Priya Ramani Photographed by ADIL HASAN

D

ebjani Ghosh gained insight about herself during the lockdown. “I’ve discovered I rock at being an introvert,” says the president of the National Association of Software & Services Companies (NASSCOM) who, until March, spent more than half the year travelling. “I’ve started yoga and meditation,” she says, before wistfully describing her last international trip, to Israel, where she accompanied entrepreneurs to showcase the significant innovations of technology companies in the country. The Indian tech industry is driven more by problem solving and jugaad than an “innovation mindset”, she says. These past months, Ghosh, 58, has had a ringside view of how companies and governments are using AI to help navigate life in the COVID era. AI is being used to monitor patients, enable the safety of health workers and, of course, in testing (for example, detecting if you have the virus based on smell and breathing pattern tests). But its potential extends beyond healthcare—to jobs, agriculture, finance and industry, Ghosh says in a NASSCOM report on the subject. “Tech for good is something we’ve started talking a lot about,” she says. She recalls the time Intel, her former employer, launched a campaign to promote computer use in villages. When she visited, she found 200 women waiting to access the computer. “They had recently put their money in the bank and they were worried their husbands would withdraw it, so they were there to log on and check on it.” Their journey to embrace technology had begun. We’re chatting on a Zoom call, and like many of us, Ghosh has perfected the WFH look. She’s dressed in a formal white kurta (visible) over track pants (not visible). Since she switched jobs in April 2018 from Intel’s managing director to head of NASSCOM, everyone loves to describe her as the organisation’s ‘first female president’. And though she takes the responsibility of being a pioneer seriously, she hopes the tag will be updated. “I want to be remembered as the best NASSCOM chief, the one who made the biggest difference, and not the first woman,” she says. She’s certainly in the right place at the right time. Her first priority, after our nationwide lockdown came into effect in March, was to work with the industry to ensure that the 4.35 million people it employed were safe while business did not halt. “It was critical for us to enable a WFH model,” she says. “The biggest challenge was handling the logistics, as four million people moved to their homes, many to small towns and villages.” Companies had to ensure employees were working on secure computers. “It took us two weeks to get 98 per cent of employees working from home. I don’t think anyone slept,” she says. “The Indian IT industry serves 75 per cent of Fortune 500 companies. If we stop, they stop.” Ambition has always been a good word for her. “My dad always told me I was the best. It did a lot of good for me,” says Ghosh, who believes that investing time in your career without a goal or a dream is a waste. Ghosh, who has been reading plenty in the pandemic—Michael Pillsbury’s The Hundred-Year Marathon, Yuval Noah Harari’s Sapiens and Steven Pinker’s How The Mind Works—lives with her 81-year-old mother Indira. They miss holidays with extended family, but Indira has a new place on her travel wish list: “Wuhan. She keeps telling me she wants to see where it started.” ■

156

158

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

ENVIRONMENTALIST OF THE YEAR

DIA MIRZA

In the past five years, the actor has added ‘activist’ to her public bio and is using her platform to create awareness on issues ranging from conservation to clean living. But personally, she’s been walking the talk for over a decade, discovers Akanksha Kamath Photographed by BIKRAMJIT BOSE

D

ia Mirza’s schooling was unlike any other. At a community-style school in Hyderabad that followed philosopher Jiddu Krishnamurti’s teachings, she was raised to understand that we are citizens of the planet and that our consumption patterns have consequences. Here, her morning classes were made up of composting and her evenings were spent huddled with other students, watching the sunset in silence. An exacerbated climate change problem in her formative years meant conversations about melting ice and depleting ozone layers surrounded her. This, mixed with a home environment where her father taught art through nature and her mother filled the front yard with plants of all provenance, provided Mirza with an instinct to protect the world around her. Today, she buys only local, opts for bamboo over plastic and plants trees for important occasions (her tree count is 80,000 in just two years). Her contribution to conservation comes with a mouthful of credentials that reflect the elaborate work cut out for her—she is the UN secretary-general’s advocate for sustainable development goals, UNEP’s goodwill ambassador, the ambassador for Wildlife Trust of India, the artist ambassador for Save The Children, and a board member of Sanctuary Nature Foundation. For now, though, she’s taking to Instagram (much like her idol David Attenborough), to inform, guide and encourage people to lead cleaner, greener lives. Here are some of her lessons: 1. Question why sustainability is not part of mainstream discourse. We have altered 70 per cent of the planet with human development. India makes up two or three per cent of the earth, and with the second largest population in the world, we’ve stretched our resources to the brim. While working at the Cancer Association, I realised there is enough evidence to prove that people are becoming sicker because of this degradation and pollution. But these conversations are sidelined because they don’t suit the industries that drive economies. 2. For those of us who care deeply for the environment, we are confronted by a sharp dichotomy. To be fully sustainable, you would have to be a hermit. Some people do have zero-waste lifestyles, but can everybody do it? No. However, if we operate from a place where we understand that what we consume will go back to the earth in some form, then we will be able to make better choices. 3. In the end, you will protect only that which you love and you will love only that which you attempt to learn. I doggedly pursued people like Bittu Sahgal, who are champions of change, and aligned myself with their work to learn more each day. 4. Social media can drive practical changes with the powers that be. September 7, 2020 was the first World Clean Air Day. I remember when we started campaigning, most state governments in India were in denial that 20 out of the world’s 30 most polluted cities were in India. Now, we’re seeing that policy makers are putting the onus on industries to curtail waste and pollution. 5. Sustainability is expensive, but that can change. A bamboo toothbrush is more expensive than a plastic one, but the cost of that toothbrush on the environment is far greater. Sadly, nobody calculates that. The government needs to introduce an ‘Environment Impact Index’ on the back of every product so consumers can make an informed decision. As demand increases, so will the supply, and the cost will come down. ■ 159

Blazer, trousers; both Michael Kors. Blouse, Alice + Olivia

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

GLOBAL THOUGHT LEADER OF THE YEAR

GITA GOPINATH

e intellectual powerhouse and first female chief economist at the International Monetary Fund has taken on the greatest challenge of her career—to guide global economic policy as we enter the worst recession since the Great Depression, writes Shahnaz Siganporia Photographed by JOHN HUET

Styled by TAYLOR GREELEY

T

he last thing you expect to be discussing with one of the world’s leading economists is fashion accessories. But Gita Gopinath is telling me why the traditional Indian jhumka has been her faithful companion, be it when she’s holding court at the World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland, schooling Trevor Noah on The Daily Social Distancing Show on the Great Lockdown and what this means for our global economic future, or as she Zooms in from her home in Boston through my screen. “I’m just one of those people that if something works and I like it, I stick with it,” she says animatedly, her jhumkas almost nodding along in agreement. But from earrings to life goals, the one thing Gopinath does with a ferocious intensity is stick to being who she is, owning her agency completely. She’s squeezed our conversation into the early hours of her busy morning, between her 17-year-old son Rohil’s first day of school as a senior and her first Vogue cover shoot that will follow right after our call for precisely an hour (probably our quickest yet!). Then, it’s back to work that has her scheduled-out way past sundown. Barely a year into her job as the economic counsellor and director of the research department at the International Monetary Fund (IMF)—the apex body that ensures the stability of the international monetary system, among other functions—and this 48-year-old is leading the conversation to combat the unprecedented global economic crisis. “I remember when we were putting together our World Economic Outlook [IMF’s flagship report providing economic projections, analyses of the global economy and policy recommendations], it was chaotic. It was the early days of the virus, but we had to make our projections. We spoke to virologists, epidemiologists and health experts to predict the path of this virus. We worked round the clock to make sure we got it as close to right as possible, given the information we had. As we were putting our numbers together, we were in shock because what we were looking at was far worse than the Global Financial Crises. And to make that projection with very partial information was the most challenging thing I’ve ever done.” In April, the IMF projected the world economic output to decline by three per cent this year, surpassing the 0.1 per cent decline during the Global Financial crisis of 2007-8, and therefore announced the worst economic crisis since the Great Depression of 1929 (the IMF has provided financing to 81 of its 189 member > 161

“If I can give back to society and if I can be of value to society, I want to be that person”

countries). Gopinath warns that what we see now is a tentative recovery. With limited effective treatments and no vaccine, we are still living in the midst of tremendous uncertainty. “As of now, the world economy is recovering from the depths of its collapse, but there are large risks on the horizon.”

THE WAY OF THE WORLD

With the pandemic’s economic crisis now exposing bleeding economies across the globe, all eyes are on the IMF and on Gopinath. She admits that there have been many sleepless nights. “It helps that I’m a workaholic and I get energy from work,” she quips. But the one silver lining of these socially distanced times is that she has stopped commuting between her home in Boston and work in Washington DC, giving her more time with her son and husband, her sanctuary from the pressures of work. “It’s like you play the lottery and win the jackpot,” she says breaking into a beaming smile as she gushes over her husband Iqbal Dhaliwal, the global executive director of J-PAL, the poverty research centre at MIT (its founders Abhijit Banerjee and Esther Duflo won the Nobel prize in economics in 2019). Her partner since 1992, she recalls how they met on a DTC bus during her undergraduate days in Delhi at Lady Shri Ram College. “He is a huge part of who I am and everything I have done since.” The proud wife and mum continues, “He and my son are simply awesome. They’re very good at pulling me out of my work zone.” Armed with their support at home and her dedication to her work, Gopinath is far from overwhelmed, even though screen time is at an all-time high, Webex-ing (the IMF doesn’t use Zoom for obvious reasons) throughout the day. She has even managed to dip into a book or two from her how-have-I-not-read-this-bookyet list, currently reading Ernest Hemingway’s For Whom The Bell Tolls. Instead, she has dived head first into the gargantuan task at hand. It also helps that the unprecedented nature of this crisis has forced her to get creative and invent her own playbook. “It’s very stimulating, because you have to be quite creative and abstract in some sense to figure it out. Being the chief economist in the worst crisis we’ve seen sets a high bar for delivering, and right now, I want to ensure I’m doing the best I can.” Gopinath predicts a gradual recovery well into 2021, but her ideal model accommodates a more compassionate vision. If the pandemic has overwhelmed economies, it has also exposed its inherent weaknesses. She says, “There are some decisions that cannot be postponed anymore. A greener recovery is needed to prevent catastrophic risks from climate change. Going forward, the world has to be one that is less unequal, where there is universal access to education, healthcare and social safety nets. And I think we have all realised the importance of building digital infrastructure to support growth.” 162

THE IMPORTANCE OF BEING EARNEST

It is an ambitious vision, especially when you look at the current state of affairs across the globe, including our own economy that contracted at a record 23.9 per cent between April and June. But the more you speak to Gopinath, it becomes clear that you can expect the extraordinary. So where does her indefatigable drive come from? Lessons from her “simple” childhood, she shares. She grew up in Mysuru, where she and her older sister Anita (her biggest cheerleader) rode their bikes to school and back every day. “Summers were spent hanging out with friends; there was no building of human capital. But what was remarkable were my parents,” she says. Her father remains her greatest champion; she tells me how a momentary pause in her always-on-call schedule found her binging on Gunjan Saxena: The Kargil Girl recently, and in it, she found a kindred spirit in India’s first female combat air force pilot. “There’s a line in the movie, where her father says: ‘If you fail, this isn’t just your failure but mine too.’ This was how I felt growing up. My father, like Gunjan’s, did not bring us up to meet society’s expectations of what a girl should do. He brought us up to be ambitious and proud of our accomplishments.” One of Gopinath’s most significant accomplishments is the day she got the call from Christine Lagarde telling her that she had got the IMF appointment. She remembers it like it was yesterday. It was mid-September 2018 and she was at her aunt’s house in Bengaluru, enjoying a family get-together. Gopinath couldn’t contain her excitement and spilt the beans to her mother, “She was like, ‘What’s the IMF?’ She still teases me about the fact that she didn’t know what it was till I got my job. She’s always putting me in my place,” she laughs. “But in all seriousness, my mother grounds me. Even as kids, she made us realise our privilege, that we had access to education, good healthcare and loving parents who took care of us. The reason I push myself and work hard is because I have had a lucky hand, and I don’t want to waste it. If I can give back to society and if I can be of value to society, I want to be that person.” A feminist icon today, Gopinath is living her dream—she is the first woman of Indian origin to be granted tenure at Harvard University’s renowned economics department, and the first female chief economist at the IMF. She takes her role as a woman of power seriously, “It’s hugely important to have women in positions of leadership. Not just for economies (in terms of GDP growth rates) but to bring a diversity of thought to policy issues. It also helps women in junior positions rise up the ranks. As a woman leader, I am aware of the constraints they face, and I will ensure they have access to the networks they need to grow and are able to call out men who are behaving or speaking inappropriately.” Gopinath is not just a leading intellectual of our time, but a woman of action who, with sheer grit, determination and a commitment to stick to who she is, is ensuring she excels at what she does. n

Dress with chain detail, Oscar de la Renta. Earrings, Thalia Sodi Hair and makeup: Kacie Corbelle/ENNIS Inc. Photographer’s assistant: James Huet Stylist’s agency: ENNIS Inc. Production: Marilyn Cadenbach Digital tech: Chris Valites Bookings editor: Prachiti Parakh Retouching: Saint Art Retouching

Dua Lipa dropped her second album, Future Nostalgia, in March

HEADLINERS 2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

GLOBAL ENTERTAINER OF THE YEAR

DUA LIPA At the peak of the pandemic, when people’s spirits desperately needed a li, the Grammy-winning dance music artiste bounced into action to put out a partystarting album in a world bere of dance floors. By Megha Mahindru

D

ua Lipa was 15 when she convinced her parents in Kosovo to let her return to London alone and pursue music. We may never know the teenager’s suasive tactic, but she proved early on that she would live life on her own terms. Back in 2017, when her peers were writing schmaltzy ballads about hapless girls and heartache, Dua Lipa released a female manifesto to move on: ‘New Rules’, a song that marked her ascent on the global charts (it featured in the top 10 spots on the Billboard Hot 100 and has since surpassed two billion views) and became a break-up anthem that spoke to women in difficult relationships to end vicious patterns. That she never needed a precursor has worked in her favour, especially in this new world. When creatives struck by the pandemic lamented the loss of the stage—their home turf for performances—Lipa blitzed to the top, disrupting, innovating, and making her own rules. How else can you explain the appeal of a dance music artist in a year when dance floors and nightclubs have been out of bounds? “While making this album, all I ever imagined was for it to be played out in clubs and bars, and people dancing and me going on tours and putting on a spectacle—it completely blindsided me. I never thought I’d know life like this in our lifetime,” says Lipa on a Zoom call from her couch in New York.

HOUSE PARTY

Since March, she has been quarantining, first in London and now in the Big Apple, with her boyfriend Anwar Hadid. The couple have spent the past few months giving each other chameleonic hair dyes, watching tonnes of movies, indulging their pup Dexter and basically sitting on the couch. “I never get to do this. Everyone’s like, ‘What kind of skill are you going to get in quarantine?’ And I’m like, ‘No skill, I’m just gonna sit and watch TV.’” > 165

“[Female artists] get talked about more for their outfit than their performance... We need to tackle those differences and put talent at the forefront” Her last stage performance was at Sydney’s Mardi Gras, which she recalls was “an absolute blast”. In March, when she returned home to London, everything—tours, rehearsals, choreography, promotions—had been stalled. So on March 27, while we were locked up at home, Lipa decided to put out her second album, fully aware that Future Nostalgia would, at best, be played at Zoom parties. “The pandemic has shown us to be in as many places as you want, but also on your sofa,” says the artist whose dance-pop bangers work as an antidote to cabin fever. Just push play and her raspy vocals and catchy beats induce involuntary spurts of movements, almost reprogramming the bodily rhythms of the listener. There lies her irresistible appeal. Her recent Studio Ghibli binge-nights probably inspired Lipa to release ‘Hallucinate’, a trippy animated video that brings back the Betty Boop-style of wide-eyed cartoons. For ‘Levitating’, her song that features pop music’s ultimate ringleaders—Madonna and Missy Elliott—she created a video with the help of 16 influencers on TikTok, a platform universally lauded for its dance-offs, lipsyncs and all-round positivity, which offers over a million results for the #DuaLipaChallenge. “All these videos wouldn’t have been done if it wasn’t for the current climate,” shares Lipa, about shooting amid the challenges of social distancing. Born in the age of smartphones, she’s lived her life with the internet. In fact, Lipa’s career took off on YouTube and then exploded on platforms like TikTok. So when social gatherings were cancelled for social distancing, she didn’t lose a minute to turn her site-specific concerts to online streams. But then, doing things differently (and succeeding) has always been her forte.

ESCAPE ARTIST

Lipa believes that her songs manage to flip the script without any astute deliberation. “Talking about the refugee crisis is very reflective of my background and where I come from,” says the daughter of Kosovo-Albanian immigrants. “I don’t go into the studio thinking I’ll write about this today. It’s something that is in my DNA and in my personality. Those words reflect who I am and come out in the songs I write.” Her tracks that connect with young women her age often mix feminism with fierce beats. In the disco-dripped Future Nostalgia, there are many fitting sequels to her breakout break-up song. Take ‘IDGAF’, which takes her abbreviated no-f*cks-given approach to end doomed relationships or ‘Don’t Start Now’, which unwittingly turned into an unofficial PSA for COVID-19. And then there is ‘Boys Will Be Boys’, a track that calls out toxic male behaviour and the double standards of growing up female: “It’s second nature to walk home before the sun goes down/And put your keys between your knuckles when there are boys around,” 166

she sings. The authenticity of the experience subtly embeds the song with a casual kind of feminism. “It was a very honest song; a lot of women can relate to it because it’s something we have all been through. We often laugh it off and pretend that it’s not such a big deal, but when we look at the big picture, it is.” And while Lipa creates digestible pop, she balances it with accessible lyrics, far from conventional. Like her music, her social media is her mouthpiece where she’s unafraid to use her fame to fight for what she believes in—championing abortion rights, voting for liberal politics and fighting systemic racism—Lipa serves it all to her 53 million followers on Instagram between vignettes of her cool-girl personality and music promotions. “I’d be doing a disservice to my platform if I didn’t speak my mind. I’m a little bit outspoken, which sometimes comes and bites me in the arse,” she laughs.

FEMALE FIRST

At the 2019 Grammys, her acceptance speech quashed the industry’s dubious claims of women artists not stepping up. At the Brit Awards, she dedicated her win “to more women on these stages, more women winning awards and more women taking over the world.” And on-screen, her songs always seem to pass the Bechdel test—‘Blow Your Mind (Mwah)’, ‘IDGAF’ and ‘New Rules’ are all about celebrating her diverse tribe of girlfriends. Routinely, Lipa has called out the music industry’s inherent sexism that expects female artists to do cartwheels and costume changes between songs. But in India, where she debuted next to Katy Perry, she did the same—jumping and dancing across the stage in hot and humid Mumbai. Going by her ecstatic performance in a co-ord set of olive green joggers and a crop top, you’d believe that she’s made peace with the demands that a pop star career demands from female artistes. “I don’t know if I plan to change that,” she says. “I just wish that in the eyes of the media, those efforts are recognised. Female artists are put under the microscope, minimised to how short their skirt is. Their talent comes last. They get talked about more for their outfit than their performance. That would never happen to a male artist. We need to tackle those differences and put talent at the forefront.” Her demands are straightforward: “We need to see equal amounts of men and women, racial audits need to be done, we need to see women in higher-up places. There need to be more women in studio settings to help young female artists feel more comfortable.” Her pathway to achieving this is also forthright: “Even in school, girls should be encouraged to take up subjects or instruments that are seen as masculine. It will change things in the long run,” says Lipa, who dreams of setting up a record label for women. And if this 25-year-old’s success is any measure, it’s safe to say that catching them young is the option we have. n

Dua Lipa, who travelled incognito to Rajasthan, Kerala and Goa a year before her India concert, says she can’t wait to be back again

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

PERFORMER OF THE YEAR

VIDYA BALAN

On-screen, she gets under the skin of every character she portrays no matter how complex or nuanced. Off-screen, she has become an icon by simply being herself. e actor, who has approached life and work on her own terms, thinks out loud with Sneha Mankani Photographed by ANURAG KABBUR

S

he had me at the edge of my seat fighting the urge to scream as Manjulika, a spirit looking to avenge her lost love in Bhool Bhulaiyaa (2007). She made me want to lose my inhibitions as she unflinchingly danced her way through The Dirty Picture (2011). And recently, she made me embrace my complexity through her portrayal of the passionate and sometimes irrational mathematical genius Shakuntala Devi in the eponymous film. That’s the thing about Vidya Balan and her character choices—she doesn’t play them, she is them. And they are a force to reckon with, much like the woman herself. “I live my dream every single day,” says Balan, her voice ringing through my phone— strong, soft, self-assured—from her Mumbai home to mine. “I’ve been drawn to acting since the age of eight. I’m glad it worked out for me.” As she talks about her craft, this prodigious performer, a Padma Shri and National Film Award winner, is more Alice-inWonderland (curious and yearning for excitement) than established hall-of-famer. She shares, “To walk in another person’s shoes for a while, wondering what they must have felt or how they reacted when confronted with a certain situation, is what I am fascinated by.” >

168

“I am just too comfortable in my own skin, too stubborn even to want to try and do anything that makes me uncomfortable, so I’ve just chosen the easier path”

WOMAN PROPOSES, GODDESS DISPOSES

It’s no surprise that Shakuntala Devi, her first feature release in a pandemic-stricken world, became a hot topic of conversation on WhatsApp groups, grocery bump-ins and Zoom calls—the 2020 equivalents of coffee-shop meetings and water-cooler gossip. According to Balan, it’s the strength of Devi’s complex character, fondly known as the ‘human computer’ and a prolific writer who wrote the first academic book on homosexuality in India, that is behind its success. “She is the most complicated character I have played so far. She was this passionate genius who was also childlike, impulsive and possessive. It’s so difficult to define her, I love that.” The film premiered in the thick of lockdown (releasing on July 31 on Amazon Prime Video), and was adored by critics and audiences. Now that she’s tasted success on OTT, I ask if we can expect to see her headlining a series next? “I’m excited to try the longer format on these platforms. But I am commitment-phobic, so unless something really blows my mind, I’ll be happy doing the twohour film,” she says. As of now, her days are busy with over 20 virtual interviews a day, even as she preps for her next film, Sherni, about animal-human conflict. Her life in lockdown, like all of ours, has been about the juggle. She says, “I started cooking at the age of 41 during lockdown—something that’s always intimidated me and I detested because I felt kitchen meant domestication. I also cleaned the house a lot. I discovered that I can be very self-reliant, especially as an actor when you’re used to having someone always attending to you.” From fixing meals to light bulbs, she confesses enjoying her time at home, sharing these experiences with her husband, the producer Siddharth Roy Kapoor. Her biggest learning, though, over these last few months: “There is no point in planning. Woman proposes, goddess disposes!”

EASY PATH, REAL GOALS

Cracking the math shows (or magic shows as Balan touts them)

might have been the toughest part, but Balan’s aha moment came way before the lockdown. Up until The Dirty Picture in 2011, she played it safe. “Silk Smitha was my opportunity to challenge myself and break out of my comfort zone. You learn something from every character. A skill, a life lesson, or both. Every character heals some part of me. She liberated me completely. The role made me accept my body in all its bigness, and allowed me to be able to see beauty in that bigness.” Away from the DOP’s lens, it’s her realness that has trumped preset beauty and fashion standards, “I am not someone who is fashion conscious. I’d say I don’t even understand fashion. But yes, I have my own unique style. I guess everyone does, but I’ve had the opportunity to discover it and I’m glad. For if not for sticking out like a sore thumb in the ‘supposed-to-be’ mould, I would have probably never discovered it.” The journey to becoming the woman who plays by her own rules today came with its own set of teenage drama. “I was a shy, introverted girl because I was fat. I wanted to be invisible. By the end of my teenage years, I lost weight by gymming, but also did some stupid things.” When the zit community paid an unwelcome visit, she drank ten litres of water a day, hearing it was the remedy to clear skin. “I puked every day, only to receive a verbal bollocking from my mother and sister when I was caught. After, I didn’t dare to drink more water than I needed. It took me a long time to overcome this shame that I felt about my body, but thankfully, that’s a thing of the past now.” Balan has, over the years, become a body positivity champion by just being herself. She says, “I love it when people, especially girls and women, embrace their bodies and beings and are comfortable in their skin, walking with swag, whatever their size. That’s so powerful.” Not letting the crowd drown your inner voice is imperative, she says, “Besides, the crowd doesn’t have a unified voice. How many voices are you going to listen to?” For Balan, the easiest thing to be is yourself: “I am just too comfortable in my own skin, too stubborn even to want to try and do anything that makes me uncomfortable, so I’ve just chosen the easier path.” n 171

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

SPOTLIGHT OF THE YEAR

MEGHA MAJUMDAR AUTHOR, A BURNING

e girl who took the literary world by storm. By Neville Bhandara Photographed by JORDAN WALCZAK

W

hen Megha Majumdar got a call from her agent to say that her debut novel A Burning (Penguin Random House) had made it to The New York Times bestseller list, she was at her desk at Catapult Books, where she works as an editor. “I couldn’t believe it. I’d never dreamt that it’d get to that level. In fact, when I heard that the book had sold, I was at a conference in Berkeley, pitching my [Catapult’s] books as an editor, and I was doing my best to focus on my work, rather than obsess that I’d just sent out my manuscript.” Brooklyn-based Majumdar, 33, was born and raised in Kolkata, which also serves as the setting for A Burning, whose intertwined stories follow the lives of its three protagonists, all of whom are determined to move up the ladder of life. The stories unfold amid a background that is familiar to those of us who live in India—online trolls, slum demolitions, lynchings and a trial by media—and Majumdar has drawn inspiration from much of the unravelling taking place in the country today that makes headlines. “The demolition, for example, had its roots in a news snippet I read when I was 13 or 14 that stuck with me,” she shares. And that’s perhaps why A Burning has garnered such attention and acclaim (it even made it to Margaret Atwood’s list of quarantine reads): it takes our present realities and dichotomies and packs them into a searing 300-odd pages, no easy feat for a country where chargesheets run into thousands of pages and vitriol runs wild. “It [the book] came from a place of paying attention to what was happening, from observing what was being reported. I wanted to write about how people make their way through a system where nothing serves them, where they are constantly challenged by institutions and have to make their way forward despite everything.” If it were any other year, Majumdar would be touring, conducting book readings and signings, and headlining literature festivals. But in the year of the pandemic, she, like us, finds herself staying as close to home as possible. That, however, is not stopping her from working on her next novel. She won’t divulge, but if A Burning is anything to go by, her next book will be one to watch for as well.

172

Styled by RIA KAMAT

Coat, Jonathan Cohen

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

SPOTLIGHT OF THE YEAR

TANYA MANIKTALA ACTOR, A SUITABLE BOY

e girl who lit up screens everywhere with her all-conquering smile. By Megha Mahindru Photographed by FARHAN HUSSAIN

PRODUCTION: FEAT CAST (TANYA); BOOKINGS EDITOR: JAY MODI

I

n internet speak, the coveted blue tick is a badge of honour that establishes your standing on the world wide web. For Tanya Maniktala, this newly minted accession came soon after she became the unexpected lead in Mira Nair’s television adaptation of Vikram Seth’s A Suitable Boy (ASB). “I was shooting in Lucknow when a friend told me I was verified,” says the 23-year-old Delhi girl. Up until then, Maniktala had been the beautiful girl next door. Born to a publisher father and homemaker mother, she grew up fantasising being a paediatrician or a lecturer, never an actor. So her career path—from a role in a web series (Flames) to giving up acting for a desk job as a copywriter—has been circuitous: “I was preparing to go to Melbourne for a major in literature,” says Maniktala, before she received the propitious call from Nair. But unpredictability has been the hallmark of 2020, and even a dream launch with boldface names like Tabu, Ishaan Khatter and Namit Das can yield unexpected results. For one, ASB released in the UK four months ahead of India, and Maniktala, stuck in a pandemic-ridden world, had no choice but to bypass global promotions and festival screenings to soak in all the admiration via Zoom. “It isn't the same, but I'd try and attend as many events online,” says the actor, who was one of the four artistes who won the Rising Stars at the Toronto International Film Festival this year. It is no spoiler to say that her character of Lata Mehra, a spirited collegiate, is the crux of the show, and in Seth’s mammoth novel, the story of a newly independent country runs parallel to Mehra’s coming-of-age story. “Lata is charming, funny and courageous. She knows what she wants, yet she’s complex and conflicted,” says the telegenic star of her role. In fact, Mehra, who fills her days with college romance and Shakespearean dramas, has as much in common with Maniktala as this show set in the 1950s does with present-day India: “It’s not just an Indian story—the political divide around us is global and universal. It’s a reminder to introspect and learn from our history,” says the actor about the relevance of the 1,500-page social commentary on caste and religion that Nair condensed into six binge-worthy episodes. >

Styled by RIA KAMAT

Net tie-dye dress with slip, Saviojon

173

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

SPOTLIGHT OF THE YEAR

TRIPTI DIMRI ACTOR, BULBBUL

e girl who took on patriarchy with her thought-provoking performance. By Sheree Gomes Gupta Photographed by ROHAN HANDE

174

I

t takes a strong actor to hold their ground against heavyweights, but an even braver one to play a complex character that few can portray. Tripti Dimri managed to do both with her breakout role. In Netflix’s Bulbbul, the 25-year-old cranked up her performance to eleven for her titular lead. Set in 19th-century India, the horror drama, produced by actor Anushka Sharma and her brother Karnesh, sees the lead transitioning from a naïve child bride to an audacious young woman, while unfolding a tale that is riveting and disturbing in equal measure. “So many women in our country continue to be victims of patriarchy. But just because we learn to compromise, adjust and endure pain, whether physical or mental, does not mean we are not strong. The film’s message is clear—there is a Bulbbul in each one of us. We just need to start believing in ourselves,” says Dimri about what drew her to this role. Success didn’t come easy, Dimri carved her own way around it. Born to a family of non-actors from Uttarakhand, Dimri’s first two films—Poster Boys (2017) and Laila Majnu (2018)—received a lukewarm response at the box office, prompting her to reassess her roles. It’s a thoughtful feat for a novice to analyse their career trajectory, but Dimri didn’t give in to any passing opportunity. “I waited almost two years before I signed Bulbbul as I was determined to take on a role that would push the boundaries for me as an actor and make sure my performance would stand out,” says Dimri, who is in no hurry to take up a new film just yet. Fortunately, for her, the wait was well worth it; she landed the role of her dreams. Released in the midst of a pandemic, Bulbbul began streaming in June to rave reviews and critics couldn’t help but notice Dimri. “I had to work a lot on myself, right from the way I walked to the way I reacted to different situations, to become Bulbbul. Some days were extremely challenging, like when we shot Bulbbul being raped by her brother-in-law and the day she was beaten black and blue by her husband. The scenes were so overwhelming that not just me, but even the director [Anvita Dutt] on the set started crying. I can’t wait to play another inspiring role like this one,” adds Dimri.

BOOKINGS EDITOR: JAY MODI

‘Sunset Zany’ blazer, Anushka Khanna

Styled by RIA KAMAT

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

SPOTLIGHT OF THE YEAR

NILZA WANGMO CHEF AND FOUNDER, ALCHI KITCHEN

e girl who inspired an army of women to revive Ladakhi cuisine. By Sonal Ved Photographed by AVANI RAI

E

arlier this year, when restaurateur Nilza Wangmo got a call from the Ministry of Women and Child Development asking her to fly down to Rashtrapati Bhavan, she was ecstatic. After all, the Nari Shakti Puraskar is the equivalent of the highest civilian honour for women in India and is handed to those who contribute towards women’s empowerment in a significant way. It was at a fortuitous dinner at one of her restaurants that a few people from the ministry spotted her phenomenal community work and knew Wangmo’s reward was long overdue. Usually packed with tourists from South East Asia and Europe, Alchi Kitchen (she has two restaurants in Leh and one in West Ladakh) is themed as a chansas (Himayalan kitchens characterised by wooden interiors and glass cabinets brimming with traditional cutlery), bringing to the fore lesser-known dishes that are fast vanishing under the banality of Maggi and momos. With the eateries, Wangmo has not only managed to put Ladakhi cuisine at the centre of a culinary conversation, but also achieved the feat by forming a sisterhood of sorts: “In the winter of 2015, I sat down with women of the community and all the grandmas to archive their recipes and start Alchi Kitchen in 2016,” says the chef from Alchi village in Leh. Her homely project has thus far helped revive dishes like tain tain, a buckwheat crepe eaten with apricot kernel chutney, chanthuk, a churpey cheese-dusted porridge made of barley and mountain peas, as well as saag made of dandelions. Her menu has also made Himalayan ingredients, like mountain caraway, chives, dried cheese powder, and black turtle beans, enter our culinary vocabulary. But the 41-year-old’s achievements don’t end here. Besides building a recipe bank that will soon be turned into a Ladakhi cookbook, Wangmo is also impacting community welfare by helming a kitchen comprising 20 women from Ladakh. “Women travel from far-flung areas in Leh and Ladakh to work here. The idea is to empower them and make them independent,” she says, of her hyperlocal gem in the hills. ■ 175

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

GLOBAL DISRUPTOR OF THE YEAR

JAMEELA JAMIL Her images are not airbrushed and her words are uncensored—she’s the vocal and fierce actor-activist who is calling out the hypocrisies of celebrity culture, patriarchy and bigotry of any kind, finds Shahnaz Siganporia

176

ACE AMIR

A

s the ultimate disruptor of today’s filtered and glazed celebrity culture, Jameela Jamil is the sort-of-official whistle-blower who doesn’t flinch on calling out bullshit as she sees it—be it Kim Kardashian for promoting appetite-suppressing lollipops, Piers Morgan for mocking gender fluidity, or admitting that her own glowy skin is a result of her privilege. So it is odd when this feminist powerhouse tells me that her current favourite possession is a doll for preschoolers. She shows off her Mira doll, part of the recently released line of toys based on Mira, Royal Detective, the CGI-animated Disney series voiced by Jamil and others. “I never had a little South Asian doll as a kid, she means the world to me,” shares Jamil of the doll that is as path-breaking as its owner. It’s the middle of the day for Jamil and she beams through my screen, in her pyjamas, with her doll in hand. She’s at her LA apartment, where she’s been social distancing from the world. “I am with multiple people I love...I mean, it’s not some sex nest!” she quips. “I live with my best friends, my boyfriend [the musician James Blake] and my puppy.” And no, she hasn’t used this time to write the next great screenplay or even master the art of banana bread. In her usual break-themould way, she continues, “This pressure we’re putting on people to come out of this [pandemic] as an Olympian, a supermodel or a master furniture maker is ridiculous. We’re in a global crisis, it should be treated as such. Not as yet another opportunity to push the self-improvement agenda.” Jamil is using this time to carry on working on her mental health. “I want to come out of this more self-aware, with a better value system.” Her mission is to avoid the rat race and prioritise. She has been busy since 2016, when she moved from London (where she made headlines as the first solo female presenter of the BBC Radio 1 Chart Show) to LA. After a near miss (she almost skipped the audition because she ended up with a head full of lube after trying to curl her hair with her then flatmate’s dildo), she landed the role that shot her to global fame, playing Tahani Al-Jamil on The Good Place. “This show gave me stability. And I got to work with a real feminist man, Michael Schur [the creator of the series], who did not define Tahani by her race alone and instead wrote a nuanced character.” Even as she plans for Legendary season 2, Jamil isn’t actively pursuing her next big blockbuster. Instead, she’s working on what she considers her greatest strength: her activism. She has already managed to change global policies at Facebook and Instagram, where users under the age of 18 are restricted from viewing diet products and cosmetic surgery procedures. She is currently involved with three separate bills (along with other organisations including the National Eating Disorders Association) combatting weight stigma in the US, and she recently addressed Congress on one of them. And with the I Weigh Community (with over 1.3 million followers on Instagram) she has rallied the sisterhood to smash the patriarchy and create a radically inclusive digital safe space. She says, “I try to start conversations rather than finish them. I’m not arrogant enough to presume that I, an uneducated 34-year-old actress, have all the answers. But I do have the right questions and the revolution begins by questioning the system.” ■

STRAIGHT TALK In April, Jamil launched a podcast that highlights women achievers, body positivity and racial inclusivity

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

GLOBAL YOUTH INFLUENCER OF THE YEAR

CAMILA CABELLO Somewhere between bringing her art and activism together, she’s writing her own rules and songs. e musician with a voice that matters tells Nupur Sarvaiya how she’s found a sanctum of solace in the centre of a storm

C

amila Cabello both perpetuates and rescinds the perception of a youth icon today. A cursory glance at her discography reinstates she is every bit the poster girl pop star of the moment. At just 23, the petite American-Cuban singersongwriter has garnered billions of streams on music platforms, is a regular club favourite with hits like ‘Havana’ and ‘Señorita’, has legions of fiercely loyal fans and has won a slew of prestigious accolades including two Latin Grammy Awards, five American Music Awards and one Billboard Music Award. She sings about pop’s everlasting themes—love and lust, intimacy and indifference, longing and loneliness—with her steamy voice and disarming eyes. But she demands much more from her brand of celebrity than synchronised dance moves, stylised costumes and sensational adulation. “I feel passionate about using my platform to highlight causes that I truly believe in and ones that I can hopefully help support,” Cabello says. “Globally, this year has been incredibly challenging for so many reasons and it is no different here in America. This election is likely the most important one in my lifetime, and exercising our right to vote and have a voice to implement necessary change is more crucial than ever. From systemic racism to unfair and unequal access to healthcare, LBGTQIA+ rights, ripping children from their parents, putting people in cages, a woman’s right to choose, and climate change, among so many other things, we are currently fighting for humanity, for all people. I truly want to do whatever I can, as quietly or as loudly, to make a difference.” Cabello has used her incredible reach to activate her audiences online as she raises her voice about the current state of affairs and in real life by taking to the streets of Miami with proclamations of protest during these tumultuous times.

MITCHELL MCCORMACK / TRUNK ARCHIVE

AGE OF INFLUENCE

As a hyperconnected digital native, this Gen Z-er understands the power of social media and exactly how precarious the virtual social dilemma is—where a single post can rally support and trolls in the blink of an eye, addiction and anxiety are both insidiously intertwined into its usage and the pressures of ‘keeping up’ are never-ending. Cabello, with over 50.2 million followers on Instagram and over 11.8 million on Twitter, shares, “Social media can be a great tool, and it’s amazing to be able to connect with fans and the world online. That said, it can be an extremely toxic environment as well. I try to limit my social media use, so the toxicity doesn’t impact me as much. I think it’s necessary for everyone to do the same.” > 179

“I truly want to do whatever I can, as quietly or as loudly, to make a difference”

PLACE OF CALM

It’s not just the music industry that has felt the effects of the pandemic. Like the rest of us, Cabello has spent most of this year cooped up at home. “There is so much that has changed in our daily routines. Our lives have certainly been upended,” she lets me in on the sentiment that anyone from anywhere can echo. But Cabello still has faith in the redeeming power of slowing down. She says, “The need to quarantine, the halt for travel and the ways our lives have had to change has allowed us to focus more inward.” With the coronavirus outbreak, #BLM protests and the 180

US elections, for Cabello, like many, family has been her refuge. “I have realised the things that matter most to me. Spending time with close friends and family is invaluable. It needs to be prioritised and cannot be taken for granted.” This off-the-clock phase has also resulted in a reassessment of values. She says, “We have been forced to confront certain realities about our world. The discrimination, systemic problems, inequality and the likes that have plagued our society for far too long are finally getting the attention they require. We have a lot of work to do as a society and an opportunity for healing that is greatly needed.” Television and books are her coping mechanisms amid the chaos. “I love watching movies on Netflix and nature documentaries like Planet Earth as well as cooking shows,” she says. A voracious reader, she is currently halfway through the 1992 feminist sensation Women Who Run With The Wolves: Myths And Stories Of The Wild Woman Archetype by Clarissa Pinkola Estés. And when I ask how she’s sequestering in style, she admits, without the least bit of hesitation: “I’m wearing a lot of sweatpants and workout clothes these days. It’s great to be able to be so casual.”

LIGHT AMID LOCKDOWN

Cabello has also used this hiatus to “focus on my music and do a good amount of writing”. Through her music, she invariably underscores her Latin heritage. “I am half Cuban and half Mexican and I am proud of my roots, my family and my people. Growing up, my family and I loved listening to several wonderful Hispanic artists like Alejandro Sanz, Maná, Luis Miguel, and Camila, among others.” A project she’s most excited about is the latest reimagining of the classic fairy tale Cinderella, slated to release next year. The reboot, which will see Cabello play the protagonist and Billy Porter as the Fairy Godmother, marks the singer’s debut as an actor. Recalling some fond memories during filming, she says, “We were coming in to work every day knowing this movie has an incredible message of joy and empowerment that we want to share with the world. The fact that we could sing, laugh and dance while the world is going through an incredibly hard time was a lesson on how you can still find beauty amid pain and hardship.” While learning to straddle life as a musician and an actor, Cabello says she is “pursuing aspects of performance that feel most honest and are inspiring and fulfilling”. But her raison d’être, so to speak, is to use her art and her platform for her big picture vision, she explains, “I am dedicated to healing myself and helping others on their journey to heal.” n

MITCHELL MCCORMACK / TRUNK ARCHIVE

Cabello’s social media today is a more candid hide-and-reveal journal of the big little things that make up her life: a leaf out of Glennon Doyle’s memoir, Untamed; a snippet from her duet with Shawn Mendes for the #TogetherAtHome concert for Global Citizen; an acoustic medley dance video celebrating her Latin heritage; casual no-makeup selfies and the not-so-casual red-carpet moments; and real talk, from activism to her highs and lows. In July 2019, Cabello used her platform to open up about her battle with anxiety through one confessional post. Openly speaking on a subject shrouded in silence, the musician surprised and awed her fans, and initiated a conversation around mental health. “We all feel a lot of pressure on many different fronts. I think the best advice is to be true to yourself and take time to balance your career and work with things that are most fulfilling and uplifting for your soul. Put your health and happiness first and the rest will take care of itself,” she advises. When I ask how she finds shape in the shadows, she discloses, “I have several things that help me regulate, and I try to practise them as often as I can—meditation and being present, breath work, exercise, eating right and getting good sleep, therapy, taking cold showers to help reset the fight or flight response, and practising gratitude.” From being a recluse while growing up to being comfortable in her own skin, the young artiste’s confident public persona has come with a sense of acceptance and a lot of self-care. “I love to perform and try to bring my all to every performance. I think the biggest challenge in the digital era is not losing your connection to the visual side of music and the importance of live performances. I would hate for listeners and fans to simply experience my music as a song title on a playlist,” she says. Her challenge with social media is now less intimate and more a larger question for the music industry and what consuming content privately on your smartphone means for the pre-COVID world of performances and live interactions.

2020 S

P

E

C

I

A

L

E

D

I

T

I

O

N

GLOBAL INDIAN ICON OF THE YEAR

PRIYANKA CHOPRA JONAS 2020 has not put a pause on the actor’s plans. On the contrary, this year saw her announce a multimillion-dollar production contract, complete her memoir and continue her support of women-founded businesses. By Hitha Herzog

I

t’s 9.30am and Priyanka Chopra Jonas is doing what any ambitious, focused and determined person would do during a pandemic: she is logged on to a Zoom call. “I’m in Berlin filming Matrix 4,” she tells me. “Germany, at this time of year, is beautiful. I didn’t realise how beautiful Berlin is in the fall. I shot a bunch of movies here including Don 2 (2011). I really do love Berlin.” Chopra Jonas proceeds to paint a picture of what she sees around her—from the falling leaves to the mountainscapes. For those of us listening in, the image conjures up memories of a pre-virus time when we were free to live our best Oktoberfest lives. It also speaks to Chopra Jonas’s ability to be a master storyteller, one of the many things that have made her one of the most bankable multi-hyphenates (actor-producer-author-entrepreneur) in the world.

Her production company, Purple Pebble Pictures, has produced 11 regional, national and global Indian films. Now it is setting its sights on dominating the global stage. The significance of the name evokes a feeling of strength: her mother, Dr Madhu Chopra, founded the production company to ensure Chopra Jonas was protected from the ageist limitations Bollywood puts on actors. “I had just turned 30 and my mum said to me, ‘You know what? In the Hindi film industry, your shelf life is going to be over soon, because all the actors that you work with are going to now look for girls in their twenties. So I want to make sure, at the ripe old age of 30, you have a career going forward,’” Chopra Jonas laughs as she recounts the memory. > 182

MARCIN KEMPSKI

THE ACTOR-PRODUCER

IN HER CITY For Priyanka Chopra Jonas, geography hasn’t proved a barrier in her storytelling

MARCIN KEMPSKI

ON THE HORIZON Early 2021 sees the launch of Chopra Jonas’s memoir, Unfinished (Penguin Random House)

“Nick and I met in the middle creatively very early in our relationship... We work really well together”

Her mum immediately saw how her daughter had a business mind and thought of the name Purple Pebble. Purple is the colour of royalty, and pebble, Chopra Jonas says, refers to the smaller nature of the company with a bigger mission in mind. “I’m not a rolling stone. My company is very small and I always see myself from a smaller perspective, but with big, long-term dreams. We decided to start with regional films because not a lot of Hindi film producers were focused on these. They didn’t get the kind of funding and placement their stories deserved.” Representation is key for Chopra Jonas, and one of the reasons why she decided to pivot her company to focus on projects in the United States. Within the last two years, she’s inked a first-look multimillion-dollar deal with Amazon Studios, shepherded by power executive Jennifer Salke. While Evil Eye was not part of the first-look deal, it’s one of the first films to debut on Amazon under the Purple Pebble Pictures banner. Likewise, Chopra Jonas was already producing a series called Sangeet along with her husband Nick Jonas. As if that wasn’t enough, she inked another deal with CBS Viacom to produce more TV projects.

THE STORYTELLER

Working with your significant other often comes with its pitfalls. When two creatives get together, the result can often be a collision. It’s not the case with the two superstars, however. “Nick and I met in the middle creatively very early in our relationship. We have a mutual admiration for what both of us bring to the table. We work really well together,” says Chopra Jonas. Her manager Anjula Acharia says the forced lockdown was good for Chopra Jonas, who pre-pandemic was often on a flight five days a week across oceans for her various acting projects. “There was a time where she would be in New York for ten hours, get on a flight, be in Mumbai the next day, stay there for another eight hours and then fly to Los Angeles. The pace was insane, but it speaks to the type of person she is—quitting is not in her vocabulary.” Having downtime allowed Chopra Jonas to work on her memoir, Unfinished (Penguin Random House; January 2021), which traces her childhood in India, her teen years in the US, winning a pageant and life thereafter, as well as her current adventures.

THE INVESTOR

Chopra Jonas’s feet may be firmly planted in the entertainment industry, however, she is the first to admit she is still naive when it

comes to investing in tech, despite her lucrative investment in Bumble, a dating and networking app, now with around 100 million users worldwide that launched in India in 2018. In school, she says, she harboured dreams of being an aeronautical engineer and has always had an affinity towards the newest apps, gadgets and OS updates. Yet, she proceeds with caution when it comes to putting her name and money behind companies, looking for great ideas but also the right teams in place to execute the vision. “The reality is technology is all around us. And while men predominantly create it, it is consumed largely by women, and that’s a problem.” Chopra Jonas uses artificial intelligence as an example, pointing out that it is the algorithms designed by men that predetermine most of the choices women want. “I don’t claim to be a beacon for all women tech investors, but we need women in engineering and tech just to normalise it,” she says. Her immediate circle of power women runs the gamut of involvement in venture capital, tech and management while balancing motherhood, friendships and caregiving. Three, in particular, are Whitney Wolfe Herd, CEO of Bumble, Acharia, her manager and a start-up investor, and Karlie Kloss, the supermodel and founder of Kode With Klossy. The women share ideas, discuss innovation and put into practice a specific mantra: “Ideas are the currency of the present,” meaning, if you have an idea, it’s on you to get to that place where someone can hear it or make it a real thing. “If you have something collaborative and disruptive, it’s going to happen.” “Anj [Acharia] was really my window into technology. Hearing her talk got me excited about investing in tech,” says Chopra Jonas. “I also think Whitney, who I partnered with for Bumble, is a boss. And what she’s done coming out of Tinder is such a disruption, and phenomenal. In addition, she has the balance of running a company and being a mum down. And what Karlie has done with coding is amazing. These are the women who are in my life and I really admire them.” So where does she see herself in ten years? Chopra Jonas isn’t one to make much of a plan, but she is working hard to create newer opportunities. “I want to consolidate myself as a business person with Purple Pebble Pictures, consolidate myself as an actor internationally and create opportunities for people who have the background I do, and influx Hollywood with South Asian talent. I want kids at some point. I feel very blessed and hope to push the envelope as far as I can.” n 185

Shirt, dress; both Fendi. Earcuff, Plutonia Blue

I N D Y A

R I S I N G Indya Moore has been bullied but they will not be beaten. The model and actor charmed us as the larger-than-life Angel on the hit show Pose and is now claiming their space, ready to be themselves. By Rujuta Vaidya Photographed by GREG SWALES Styled by ANNA TREVELYAN

Strappy blouse, skirt; both LaQuan Smith. Cuff, Cartier

Sequinned jumpsuit, Ashish. ’Alexandria’ horn drop earrings, Diaboli Kill

s children, we are taught the difference between good and bad. But the perception of what falls within these concepts changes as we grow older, and very often, we learn that society hasn’t been kind to those who do not fit into traditional moulds. Indya Moore is proof that inherent goodness can prevail, despite having endured judgement and rejection from loved ones. At 25, the trans, non-binary actor and model is on the TIME 100 list, an achievement few can brag about, but the responsibility of that does not rest lightly on their shoulders. “I am still figuring out my life. I just came out of foster care,” Moore tells me, of how at 14, they went into foster care because of their parents’ transphobia. “From living in survival mode, I have a set of experiences that I think are helpful to share on behalf of my community with the world, that form the way that I advocate for myself and people like me. But I still feel like I don’t have the grace to be human,” they say. The breakout star of the Emmy-nominated drama series Pose is as vocal and woke as anyone can be in the year 2020, using their platform and voice to advocate for trans and Black rights. “I find myself in a position where I have to always be vulnerable and share parts of myself. That makes people have too much access to me in a way that doesn’t feel safe. There’s so much that I am trying to learn and figure out, and in such a small amount of time,” they share. There’s both pain and tenderness in Moore’s voice. But they are on a journey to heal, both themselves and those causing the hurt. It’s hard to resist the urge to climb out of the Zoom window and give them a warm hug.

SURVIVAL INSTINCT

Moore had a conservative upbringing. “Contrary to popular belief that only white families can be conservative,” they say with a laugh. Their father, an immigrant from the Dominican Republic, had a sense of honour and order. Their mother is a Jehovah’s Witness follower. “Practising being a part of this religion I faced some difficulties around being seen at home where I was. The moments where I was seen, I was criminalised.” Part of the reason Moore connects so well with their on-screen character Angel and “her pursuit to love and be loved” is because the star felt the same way in their formative years. Moore mentions their own struggles with drug abuse, and the escape it offered was not too different from the ones Angel seeks. Despite not being involved in developing the character, Moore notes their own experiences are very common in the trans community.

Being Black and trans in America equals being a target for prejudice. The recent countrywide Black Lives Matter uprising made world news in a span of hours. Black squares on Instagram were posted as a sign of solidarity. “I think that this [the Black Lives Matter movement] happening has been affirming at a magnitude. It’s so large, but it’s still not enough for us to get liberated and get free. It’s still affirming nevertheless, because to be Black in America is to be gaslit every day of your life and to gaslight yourself sometimes, to just get by.” Spreading awareness and talking for your marginalised group is not just a matter of using a platform for Moore, it is more of a basic survival instinct.”

LEANING IN

Moore is optimistic, despite all the background noise. Their naturally glow-y, warm disposition makes them irresistible to anyone who spends more than 10 minutes with them. Work may have been slow in the pandemic, but for Moore, the uncharacteristic break in their schedule this September could not keep them off the runway. The phygital format of fashion month did offer them the opportunity to open for Jason Wu’s spring 2021 New York Fashion Week show, followed by Savage X Fenty. I ask the de facto question on spending time in the pandemic and what changes it brought about in their lifestyle. “I’ve been enjoying time to myself as much as possible. I plan to not be busy just for the sake of not being busy. I work, and I think that only arouses my ego continuously. I think that’s how it affects a lot of people who work in this industry, but I don’t like it,” says Moore with their usual disarming honesty. “I kind of have access to myself so that I can explore more ways to have fun and be happy, even when I am not doing anything, and to be okay with that. I want to lean into that a little more. These days I feel like I’ve been enjoying playing video games. It’s very low energy, and very low energy activities help me to unlayer some of the shit that I carry every day. I am really working very hard to heal.” Self-awareness and looking after one’s own mental health is equally important for an influencer. The star keeps both sides of themselves—the actor and the human—in check when required. Moore’s strength lies in rising from challenges and truly thriving while showing the world how things can be done with compassion. “I acted very quickly because of the urgency around the safety and care my community needed. I felt called upon to take that on. But I feel like I am in a place where I am still also learning for myself, and I think that space is very important. For me to have grace is to be seen as a human being that gets to be flawed, gets to be misunderstood and, hopefully, still deserves love.” n 189

Halter neck blouse, Balmain. ’Alexandria’ horn drop earrings, ‘Damian’ ring; both Diaboli Kill

Ribbed knit dress, ‘Multi Heart’ harness; both Alexander McQueen

191

Strappy blouse, fringe skirt, earrings; all AREA. Sandals, Brother Vellies

Dress, Louis Vuitton. Earrings, Fallon. ‘All Power’ fist necklace, Johnny Nelson

193

Jacket, skirt; both Prada. ‘Pendulum’ choker necklace, Diaboli Kill. Sandals, Sergio Rossi

194

Dress, sandals; both Vera Wang. ‘Bamboo’ hoop earrings, Chris Habana Hair: Hos Hounkpatin/The Wall Group Makeup: Renee Garnes Manicurist: Shirley Cheng/See Management Photographer’s assistants: Jana Schuessler; Casey Franklin Assistant stylist: Kristtian Chevere Stylist’s agency: CLM Agency Set designer: Lucy Holt Production: Alexey Galetskiy; Ryan Fahey/AGPNYC Bookings editor: Prachiti Parakh

BABY GOT BLACK It’s a party frock with a twist. Play belle of the ball (or the boudoir) with big balloon sleeves and powder-puff accessories. Silk taffeta dress, belt (worn as necklace), bracelets, bag; all Chanel

All dressed up and nowhere to go? Big-sleeve energy, animal prints, lush leather and checks on checks—we’re taking classics to the club (or the living room). After all, the party is in our heads (quite literally) Photographed by DAVID SIMS Styled by IBRAHIM KAMARA

QUEENS OF CHIC GIRL GONE WILD How do you get a leg-up on tiger stripes? Pair them with zebra stripes. Silk blouse, pleated skirt; both Vivienne Westwood. Leather pumps, Versace. Oversized sunglasses, Gucci. Earrings, bracelets; both Monies

197

TWIN SET Heritage checks have a hold on us. Think Mary Poppins goes man-style. On Shivaruby: Woolen jacket, pants, shoes; all Dolce & Gabbana. Shirt, socks; both Ibrahimkamarastudios. Tie, Barry Wang. Brooch, Pebble London. On Maty: Jacket, skirt; both Michael Kors Collection. Leather boots, Salvatore Ferragamo. Vintage shirt, tie; both Barry Wang. Brooch, Pebble London Rings, earrings; both Monies. Headpiece, Ibrahimkamarastudios X Jawara Alleyne

NEW RULES OF EMBELLISHMENT If you’re not one for ruffling feathers, keep it low-key in cult classics. Don’t forget your party hat. Shirt, pants, jacket, trench coat, silk tie, socks, leather shoes; all Burberry. Headpiece, Ibrahimkamarastudios X Jawara Alleyne

199

FULL CIRCLE Make a statement, courtesy black, red, and a collar game that would make the late RBG proud. Silk wool blend dress, patent leather shoes; all Gucci. Tights, Ibrahimkamarastudios. Earrings, Moschino. Necklace, Pebble London. Bracelets, Monies. Hat, Kyle Ho

200

DRAPE EXPECTATIONS Accordion pleats make dressing up leather a cinch On Maty: Shirt, tie, leather jacket, leather skirt; all Fendi. Headpiece, Ibrahimkamarastudios X Jawara Alleyne. On Shivaruby: Leather dress, Salvatore Ferragamo. Vintage shirt, tie; both Barry Wang. Headpiece, Ibrahimkamarastudios X Jawara Alleyne. Earrings, Monies Hair: Virginie Moreira Makeup: Hiromi Ueda Manicure: Zaida Igani Assistant stylists: Felix Paradza; Mark Mutyambizi; Eric Hegemann. Production: Art House Casting: Mischa Notcutt/11Casting Models: Maty Fall/IMG; Shivaruby/Storm Management; Nour Rizk/Models1; Aishwarya Gupta/Viva

CULT

they could

take away

everything we have

and we’d conjure this beautiful life up all over again with the

bones in our backs

building an empire

from the ground up is exactly what we’re

good at -rupi kaur O R I GI N A L S

Use your words Some of the most followed and adored Insta-poets of our time, Sophia akur, Alisha Patel and Rupi Kaur play with poetry and prose to communicate the power of speaking your truth and raising your voice in this polarising and tumultuous age 202

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

y

y

precious, i you’re ’ e e essential

o offending

So for as long as her child is breathing she too continues to live. And in that moment the young lady remembered that her mother still lives within.

WHAT W E H AV E I N CO MMO N

H

BY SOPHIA THAKUR

CHANTAL AZARI; SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

ow did we forget? How did we allow time and age to convince us that we must all be firm? So strong, so often. When did it become more important to appear stable than to actually feel it? As if instability is embarrassing. As if it isn’t a natural reaction to life’s fluctuations. As if 2020 hasn’t shaken the foundation of the world. We try to be rocks, but at most, we are calloused sponges. Hearts like fingertips that have been hardened to play one more song. But beneath the bespoke stitching of our skin, that has been designed with however life has happened to us, we all share the same soft centre. It is of the utmost importance to learn the language of our heart. It is the seed from which our garden is grown. Our sky is filled with the seasons of our past. It is too risky to remain unknown.

Sometimes, to move forward, we must first look back, and poetry exploits the luxury of hindsight. Now more than ever, during such a globally chaotic time, there is a desperate need to find a way to express and make sense of the wild that has overtaken much of the space behind our skin. Poetry instructs us to soften, to why we feel how we feel. An empty page forces us to stand still and silent long enough for the world and our heart to present itself in truth. And we need that honesty if ever we hope to grow. More importantly, in such a divided and isolating time, we need that honesty if ever we hope to connect. A poem found a young lady’s Instagram feed. As she was curled up to her tears. Tonight she misses her mother despite her being gone for years. The poem was about how once a woman used what was within to grow an entire world from her hips.

Telling our stories can liberate others from the prison of silence and shyness. From the suffocating feeling of loneliness. I believe this to be the role of a poet. I wrote my first book, Somebody Give This Heart A Pen, in the hope that it would encourage readers to slow down and explore how things impact them. If we refuse to spend time with our reactions and reasons, we risk living in our own shadow instead of in the abundance of honesty. I’m not saying that it’s easy to deep-dive into your very wiring, but I can promise that it is worth it. I got electrocuted time and time again before finally letting myself in. I saw what my first heartbreak did to me. I saw what it continued to do to the men that came after. Once identified, I could break the cycle. As I tried to write about love, I could only write about my mother. Once I realised that she is the portrait of my definition, I learnt to value her even more. I learnt to enjoy the eyes that she gave me at birth and tried my hardest to see the world as she did. Through the lens of wonder. Of hope. Of beauty. What we have in common is how powerless we are to feel. We are but soft skin and flesh. Sewn together by every memory, we do not need to pretend. Instead, if we must do anything let us give our truth a pen. Sophia Thakur, 24, London An acclaimed performance poet who has stunned audiences from Glastonbury and MTV to TED Talks and the BBC. Her debut poetry collection, Somebody Give This Heart A Pen (Walker Books), was an international bestseller. @sophiathakur > www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 203

Isn’t it ironic that being g apart p has

taught us how to be when we are

f finally y together? g

@wordsmithalisha

Look at the starss, kid

Though separate ted by miles and darkn ness, Together g they y ca an

light g up p the world wor rld

@wordsmithalish ha

O

ur deepest wounds are often the gateway to our best life. I realised this soon after our daughter Alia was born. I was an anxious mess for about a year, unable to process the enormity of motherhood. Her birth, truly the most precious moment of my life, triggered a host of emotions that lay neatly tucked underneath the surface, frozen and marshalled like ice-cube moulds. For most of 2019, I struggled with breastfeeding her, wrestled with sleep issues and put myself last because I believed that’s what good mothers do. It’s now the autumn of 2020 and if there’s anything I know, it’s this: good mothers do the opposite. Good mothers eke out balance, hunt for their light, live their purpose. Good mothers give of themselves, to themselves. They find what fulfils them in order to bring more joy to the (dinner) table. They strive for balance, equanimity and authenticity. They do not make themselves disappear. I’m still scrambling to manifest all of the above, but words have been my greatest ally. Having a daughter has fuelled me to share my truth and be a vehicle for change in a way I never imagined before. It’s

204

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

W HAT G O O D M OTHE RS DO BY ALISHA PATEL important for all women to honour their inner voice and purpose because we shape our culture and society in disproportionate ways. Our ideologies are perpetuated across time, mainly through our children. We model martyrdom and call it love, then we wonder why our daughters can’t speak up. We model passivity in the name of peace but wind up victims of emotional and physical abuse. We live in a world governed by demonic alpha males, yet we’re the only ones capable of reproduction. Our bodies and minds are life’s greatest miracles, yet they are silenced by sexism and patriarchy. We need to be confident and hopeful about expanding ourselves beyond our bodies. We need to build families that respect our individuality and purpose. In these last few months, I’ve become deeply grateful for a husband who supports me in my quest for an unconventional path, even in challenging times. Thanks to him, I am able to own a huge part of myself, one that I

know makes me an even stronger, creative and happier mother. Raising a toddler in the midst of a pandemic has rebirthed my career in a greatly personal way. At the heart of my writing is a need for human connection. I was recently fortunate to have collaborated on an inspiring global social media project that sought to break stereotypes around masculinity through gentle and inspiring language. It made me realise that I have spent the last decade trying to court a career that was never mine. I had melded into a corporate world that didn’t ignite my creativity or purpose. I wanted to speak my truth and thanks to Alia, I finally am. Alisha Patel, 37, Dubai She’s a content creator working on empathy based projects with her poetry and made headlining news earlier this year by collaborating with Ermenegildo Zegna. @wordsmithalisha

they y could take away

ORIGINALS

everything e y g we have

nd

b o

p

b e

E VE RYTH ING WE H AV E BY RUPI KAUR

W

COURTESY ALISHA PATEL; RUPI KAUR

e must raise our voices and make a lot more space for those who have been ignored and unheard. We must lift communities who have been sidelined for so long, so that we can build a more equitable world. they could take away everything we have and we’d conjure this beautiful life up all over again with the bones in our back building an empire from the ground up is exactly what we’re good at Rupi Kaur, 28, Toronto Kaur is one of the Internet’s biggest poetry sensations and a New York Times bestseller. Her latest collection of poems and illustrations, Home Body (Simon & Schuster) releases this month. @rupikaur_ ■ www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 205

SPOTLIGHT

A beautiful mind She’s a formidable woman of science and the World Health Organisation’s first-ever chief scientist. Meet Dr Soumya Swaminathan, who is leading the charge in the battle against the pandemic. By Rajashree Balaram Illustrated by SAANTHIA BULCHANDANI

206

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

“We need to have women role models in the field of science. But that can only happen when more organisations are willing to draft women-friendly work policies that support their career goals”

D

r Soumya Swaminathan prefers walking to her workplace, the headquarters of the World Health Organisation (WHO) at Avenue Appia in Geneva. Her hallowed role as the chief scientist of WHO may have entitled her to a chauffeur driven ride, but she skips the sweet perquisite for the one-hour walk, to and fro. “Geneva is the kind of place that begs to be explored on foot, and walking helps me unwind,” she tells me over a choppy WhatsApp call. The 61-year-old is now a familiar face in the corridors of science and power, clad in her lovely handloom saris and kurtas— Kanchipuram cotton, khadi, Maheshwari, Bomkai, with a discreet bindi to boot. She talks of Geneva fondly, remembering action-packed days bookended by unhurried weekends when she’d explore new hiking trails, pedal through obscure streets, attend classical music concerts and spend hours in any of the 30-odd museums. But on the night of December 31, 2019, when the WHO Country Office in China alerted the headquarters in Geneva about an outbreak of a mysterious ‘atypical viral pneumonia’ that had gripped Wuhan, everything changed. Swaminathan has been on a roller coaster powering through ever since.

SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

SAFETY FIRST

Within 24 hours of that fateful night, Swaminathan and her colleagues set up the Emergency Response Centre to manage a health crisis that dominoed its way across the world. In the past 10 months she has conferred with government officials and over 1,200 scientists; engaged with research lab oracles to understand behaviour patterns of the virus; and assiduously updated journalists, even as a part of her mind is already dedicated to “strategising

new leaps in digital health and innovation”. In a world teetering on the convergence of healthcare and social, economic, political and ideological crises, her only chance to breathe easy is during the 20 minutes that she spends on her yoga mat every morning. As for humanity at large, she estimates that we can expect to feel more relieved by mid 2021 when COVID-19 vaccines are expected to launch. “Human behaviour will have a huge role to play in how this pandemic unfolds, and that includes the behaviour of the individual, of the community, and of the government,” she tells me. “Be it vaccines or rapid diagnostic tests, or better treatments that are currently being developed and tested in clinical trials, there are many ways in which we see this reflected in the lowering of case fatality rates. There are signs of hope on the horizon, but we cannot let our guard down. We will have to continue with public health measures until we have vaccines available for everyone.”

SHE’S ALL THAT

Swaminathan plays a significant role in battling this pandemic, and 30 years of her awe-inspiring work in public health have prepared her for this. She started as a paediatrician, only to broaden her horizons through research and a professorial stint with Tufts University School of Medicine, New Jersey. She shot to global recognition as director of the National Institute for Research in Tuberculosis in Chennai. And as former secretary to the Government of India for Health Research, and directorgeneral of the Indian Council of Medical Research, she is credited for bringing science into health policymaking and building research capacities. But her greatest strength, her scientific temper, she traces to her parents. Her agricultural scientist dad MS Swaminathan

and educationist mum Mina, taught her early on to respect individuality and question received wisdom. She says, “I grew up on the Indian Agricultural Research Institute campus, where my dad worked. For my parents’ students, ours was an open house. We celebrated every festival, be it Holi, Eid or Christmas. We had scientists and professors from all over the world dropping by to meet my parents; I even remember Sir CV Raman staying over. Our learning grounds were museums, science fairs, farmlands and forests. My parents never made a big deal of academic excellence.” At 15, she won a prestigious science talent scholarship that allowed her to spend a summer working in the labs with renowned geneticist Dr Archana Sharma. “I wish kids in India had access to more summer science internships,” she says. It also instilled in her the need to advocate for fellow women in STEM: “We need to have women role models in the field of science. But that can only happen when more organisations are willing to draft women-friendly work policies that support their career goals. Not just maternity leave, what about the women who are caregivers to the elderly in their family?” Swaminathan’s loving, supportive family care for each other as best as they can while they are located in three different continents. Her husband, orthopaedic surgeon Ajit Yadav and her son, a video game designer, live in Chennai, while her daughter, a marine biologist, is pursuing her doctorate in the US. During the family’s weekly Zoom call, Swaminathan’s house in Geneva fills up with their collective laughter, gossip, banter and chats about the mundane. For this scientist, each day ends with the same promise— another day and another chance to make the world a healthier, happier place. ■ www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 207

ART

The illusionist

He uses image-making to explore his relationship with the world, giving us striking, shape-shifting imagery that captures both the intimate and the distant. Meet Sohrab Hura, one of India’s finest photographers. By Radhika Iyengar

A

bout a year ago, Sohrab Hura travelled to the edge of an ancient port in Tamil Nadu to film the sea in a certain way. In a phone conversation two days prior, he had told me, “I need to do this to see if I can build something with photographs from The Coast.” The film he shot became an extension of The Coast, a photobook anchored in magic realism. It depicts the aftermath of a festival, where locals, after masquerading as deities and spectral beings, wash off their painted veneers at sea. “For me, this is a moment of ‘cleans208

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

ing’,” says Hura. “It’s in this one small moment, where people let go.” The book went on to win the 2019 Paris Photo-Aperture Foundation PhotoBook Award and is also one of the key works at his solo exhibition, Spill, at Experimenter, Ballygunge Place, Kolkata (November 7, 2020 to January 2, 2021). The 39-year-old Delhi-based photographer’s most comprehensive show yet, it showcases his extensive 15-year-old practice. Hura photographs life with ravenous intensity, capturing elated lovers, mottled walls, boys engaging in fisticuffs, and sun-seared and snow-cloaked lands.

“Having something to say is far more special than having talent” - S OHRAB HURA

Clockwise, from left: The Coast (2013 - 2019); Snow (2015 ongoing); River (2005). Opposite page: Detail from Life Is Elsewhere (2005 - 2011)

COURTESY SOHRAB HURA AND EXPERIMENTER, KOLKATA

UNFILTERED VISION

The exhibition also features Hura’s earlier works. These include prints from Land Of A Thousand Struggles (2005-06), a work he made at age 23, travelling across rural India to document the ‘Right to Food’ movement. The images are stark accounts of the truth left to fester in the shadows of ‘India shining’. Among his earlier work, Life Is Elsewhere (2005-2011) is more personal, an intimate chronicle of his relationship with his mother, who was diagnosed with schizophrenia, and her dog Elsa. It was exceptional in technique and its high-contrast, gritty feel. His influences are held together by personal, isolated experiences. Buried somewhere in his Instagram feed is a candid photograph of his parents plopped against a wall, joined at the head, laughing. Hura was nine years old when he made this image. “All this while, I thought my mum was the reason I took up photography, but actually my father is the one who put a camera in my hands in the first place,” he says. At the start of his career, veteran photographer Dayanita Singh, in a pay-itforward ritual, anonymously began leaving behind “hundreds of rolls of film” for Hura at a photo lab. Many of the Life Is Elsewhere images were made using those rolls. “I saw Sohrab’s hunger and curiosity for what the image can do, way beyond

what was accepted or expected,” says Singh. “I did not want him to run out of film at the very least.” By 2020, he became a full member of Magnum Photos—the world’s most revered photographers’ cooperative, founded by masters like Robert Capa and Henri Cartier-Bresson—making Hura the only Indian photographer with this recognition. While his name is inextricably linked to Magnum Photos, he’s uncomfortable with the unidimensional narrative around it. “It ends up feeling like that’s my main identity,” he reasons.

NEW GAZE

Hura prefers keeping his head low and focusing on his work. He doesn’t consider himself to be aloof, although he admits being a tad reticent. But he’ll close the world on him when required. It’s how he became a photographer when he converted his childhood bathroom into a darkroom. “I would be there for three or four days. I would open the door, my mum would give me something to eat and I would go back to processing because I was obsessively trying to learn.” He would

experiment, developing prints in different solutions, building cardboard cameras, making lenses out of toilet paper rolls. There was even a time when he tried scanning himself “into a computer”. One image from this process will be shown at the exhibition. Hura remains committed to developing newer visual vocabularies. “I believe in breaking photography. I need to break the process,” he adds. According to Experimenter gallery’s founders Priyanka and Prateek Raja, “Through his work, he is truly able to show a mirror to our society, our time and our unstable predicament.” For the exhibit, Hura is designing a room that will serve as a laboratory, giving the viewers an insight into his process. In the space of contemporary Indian photography, Hura has undoubtedly charted his own path, and he’s already inspiring the next generation of artists by playing unofficial mentor. He shares, “I want to connect with people who have something to say. I think that’s much rarer and far more special than having talent, and it’s the only way I can be in touch with the pulse of today.” ■ www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 209

200

` 200 PHOTOGRAPHED BY BIKRAMJIT BOSE

LIVI D ESI GN

A league of her own

ANDREW WOFFINDEN

At 50, supermodel Claudia Schiffer is marking the milestone with a slew of fashion and design collaborations, finds Parizaad Khan Sethi

FUTURE NOSTALGIA Next year, Schiffer will curate an exhibition of iconic fashion photography from the ’90s in Germany www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 211

DESIGN

HOUSE OF STYLE Clockwise from left: ‘Claudia doll’ Barbie in a Versace dress from A/W 1994-95; Kokeshi doll inspired by a Richard Avedon campaign; Schiffer with pieces created for Bordallo Pinheiro; ‘Butterfly’ vase; handblown vases designed for Vista Alegre

Parizaad Khan Sethi: How has your experience in fashion influenced your interest in design? Claudia Schiffer: I think the two go hand in hand. I’ve loved interior design for a long time, and for years, I’ve visited flea markets and vintage stores collecting glassware, ceramics and porcelain. When I’m working on collaborations, I’m also looking at inspirations from art and fashion, and how literal or abstract I want it to be. I love the design process and that mood board stage. The most fun is when the samples arrive. 212

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

PKS: How have you decorated your own homes? CS: In Oxfordshire, the modern design of our home includes strict architectural lines and lots of open space and glass, with floor-to-ceiling windows to frame the incredible countryside views. Besides glassware, ceramics and porcelain, I’ve also collected contemporary art and mid-century vintage furniture for years. I love butterflies and clouds, so naturally I fell in love with the clouds by Andreas Gursky and Damien Hirst’s Kaleidoscope comprising butterflies. My favourite piece though is Marry Me by Ed Ruscha, which my husband had commissioned and is how he proposed to me. I also like the sleek lines and simplicity of midcentury furniture. So our home is a mix of ’50s, ’60s and ’70s pieces, from Scandinavian style to German Bauhaus, and I enjoy sourcing pieces from websites like 1stDibs, Pamono, Vinterior and The Modern Warehouse. I love the use of wood and leather and combining that with textures such as sheepskin and Moroccan rugs. Architecturally, Oxfordshire is the polar opposite of our Suffolk home, which is an Elizabethan house, where we spend our holidays. There we’ve adopted a

“I FELL IN LOVE WITH FASHION IN THE ’80S, BUT THE ’90S WERE WHEN I LEARNT WHAT FASHION REALLY WAS”

ANDREW WOFFINDEN; LUCIE MCCULLIN; @CLAUDIASCHIFFER/INSTAGRAM

H

ow does a ‘super’ age? Can someone whose face captured the zeitgeist of a decade even grow old, or do they remain, like Dorian Gray, forever youthful in our imagination? One iconic supermodel isn’t letting these existential questions worry her. In her 50th year, Claudia Schiffer celebrates her life’s substantial achievements by adding on a few more. She’s marking the milestone with a slew of fashion and design brands such as Balmain, Dolce & Gabbana, Isabel Marant, Versace, FRAME, Lucie Kaas, Barbie, Bordallo Pinheiro, Vista Alegre and more, who have all announced exclusive collaborations or launched one-off pieces that celebrate the German supermodel. “I’m enjoying the different avenues my career has taken, including roles where I am designing pieces or curating collections, which felt like a natural next step for me,” she says. From revealing how she visualised the interiors of her own homes to sharing details about her design tie-ups, below are edited excerpts from the interview:

SUPERSIZED CELEBRATIONS From left: Schiffer shooting the line she designed for Être Cécile at her Oxfordshire home on the ‘Julep’ sofa by Tacchini, against Hirst’s Kaleidoscope artwork and sweeping views of the English countryside; the model launched a limited-edition beauty collection (and bag) with Bamford for her 50th birthday celebrations

modern take on country style, bringing in a lot of colour and pattern, juxtaposing more traditional furnishings with modern art. Great homes sometimes lack that personal detail, so I wanted to have antiques and heirlooms that are important to us. PKS: What was your history with Bordallo Pinheiro before your collaboration? CS: I was gifted a cheese platter with grey mice by friends, years ago on my birthday. I’ve since collected nearly everything Bordallo has made and decided to confess my love and ask them to bring my ideas to life. The collaboration with Vista Alegre followed naturally from this. PKS: What made you pick butterflies as the leitmotif for your collections with both brands? CS: Growing up near the Rhine, surrounded by the countryside, I often drew inspiration from nature, such as butterflies and clouds. With this in mind, when I developed the vases for Vista Alegre— I chose naturalistic colours that explored that sense of bringing nature into the home. For the ceramic pieces I decided on a more detailed and decorative design in the figurative style of Bordallo Pinheiro. Both collections sit well together. PKS: You are also curating an exhibition on ’90s fashion photography next year. What is the perspective that you want to offer to the visitors? CS: The exhibition at the Kunstpalast Museum in Düsseldorf, opening on March 4, includes a host of incredible photographers from Helmut Newton to Herb Ritts. I fell in love with fashion in the ’80s, but the ’90s were when I learnt what fashion really was. It was an intense and amazing time that had not

been seen before, when shoots lasted for days and fashion was front-page news for weeks. The other supermodels and I lived and breathed fashion. With this exhibition, we’re aiming to balance major photographic works with unseen and intimate material. Moving images, music and memorabilia from my private archive will also be included to showcase the richness and variety of fashion media. PKS: Three iconic dolls in your likeness have released this year—a Kokeshi doll and two Barbies. Tell us about the collaborative process? CS: I’m honoured to join the ranks of the beautiful Lucie Kaas hand-painted Kokeshi dolls, which include legends from Karl Lagerfeld to Elton John. For my 50th birthday, we designed a doll wearing the iconic gold Versace dress I wore in 1994 on the catwalk and for the campaign shot by Richard Avedon. Similarly, we’ve recreated an iconic Versace look for my collaboration with Barbie, where a ‘Claudia doll’ will wear two iconic looks—the first, a turquoise silk chiffon gown with Donatella’s signature corseted bodice from Versace haute couture autumn/winter 1994-95, and the second, a black criss-cross vinyl skirt and top encrusted with crystal beads from the spring/summer 2016 Balmain campaign. The collaborative process for both involved sharing inspiration from my personal archive and identifying looks from the most iconic shows.

“I BELIEVE AGE SHOULD BE CELEBRATED AND REVERED. I DON’T TRY TO LOOK OR FEEL YOUNGER, I EMBRACE THE NOW”

PKS: In your 50th year, how do you feel in mind, body and soul? CS: I believe age should be celebrated and revered. I don’t try to look or feel younger, I embrace the now. I think if you are happy and healthy, the rest will follow. ■ www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 213

From India, with love Nestled in Germany’s Black Forest region is a curious gin connection that began in Madras. Neville Bhandara traces its roots

I

n 1945, Madras-born wing commander Montgomery ‘Monty’ Collins of the Royal Air Force was posted to Berlin. Heartbroken to see the devastation of war, he wanted to help restore the capital to its glory and chose to help rebuild the Berlin Zoo, where he came to sponsor a monkey named Max. Six years later, he moved to the Black Forest region—famed for its pristine woodlands, stunning landscape and legendary ham— where he hoped to take up watchmaking, but soon gave it up to run a guest house he named Zum Wilden Affen (The Wild Monkey) in honour of Max. Here, Collins took advantage of a law that allowed farm holders to distil the fruits available to them to create alcohol in order to help supplement their income during the winter. The Britisher in him baulked at the idea of making schnapps like the locals, so he decided on gin—that most English of past times. Gathering botanicals and blending them with crisp Black Forest spring water, he set out to create his longed-for drink. Collins’s story then trails off till the ’60s, when fortuitous renovations at the guest house yielded a wooden chest containing a bottle featuring the words ‘Max the Monkey– Schwarzwald Dry Gin’, accompanied by notes, photographs and the description of the botanicals he had used. Fast-forward to 2006: Alexander Stein, the scion of the Jacobi brandy dynasty, heard Collins’s story and was so fascinated that he decided to revive the legend. He returned to his home of Baden-Württemberg and founded Black Forest Distillers GmbH in the very place that Collins had, years before, produced his dry gin.

INSIDE STORY

I came across this fascinating tale earlier this year on a visit to gin maker Monkey 47’s distillery outside Lossburg. The ‘47’ in the name denotes the number 214

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

of ingredients that make up this handcrafted gin, considered among the world’s most flavourful and expensive (a 500ml bottle costs 5,000). But this gin isn’t just juniper, there’s plenty more: spruce, blackthorn, bramble and acacia leaves, cranberries, lemon balm, orris root, and the peels of grapefruit and lemon. And while spices such as cardamom, clove, coriander and cinnamon come from India, over a third of its ingredients are native to the Black Forest, including lingonberry, the crown jewel, which means you’re unlikely to encounter a gin with a similar taste profile anywhere else. It’s an >

“An open mind, a clear nose and a love for the botanical spirit [is all you need]” —Z AC HARY DE GIT, BRAN D AM BASSA DOR , AS IA- PA C IF IC , M ONK EY 47

TRAVEL

From above: The handassembled copper still where the distillation takes place; Juniper berries are beaten from the bush; ripe juniper berries are put through a sieve to remove rogue leaves, twigs and rocks; the flavour library at the distillery, created to help develop further special editions Opposite page: Zum Wilden Affen (The Wild Monkey), named in honour of Max

GIN ETIQUETTE Zachary de Git’s guide to gin tasting

THE ESSENTIALS “An open mind, a clear nose and a love for the botanical spirit.” THE ADVICE “A friend of mine summed it up perfectly: ‘Nosing and tasting wine is like meeting your best friend on the street. You greet each other with a warm hug and dive straight into the conversation. Nosing and tasting spirits is like a first date. You meet, assess the situation and ease into it. If not, you may get hurt.’” THE TECHNIQUE “Smell the aromas. Seventy per cent of our taste comes from our sense of smell. Take a sip and assess it from the front, the mid and back. Feel the finish. Does it linger? Try not to swirl it as it is high in alcohol and prolonged swirling will numb your taste buds.” THE GLASS “A curved glass, like a tasting glass or a wine glass, transports aromas better.”

©MONKEY 47

THE PAIRINGS “Cold cuts and cheese.”

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 215

TRAVEL

Our guide and teacher for the day, Zachary de Git, brand ambassador, Asia-Pacific, elaborated: “Max is on each label. There’s also the British crown, a nod to Montgomery’s ancestry, and the imagery of the Black Forest. And the entire design is encased by the silhouette of the Taj Mahal.” De Git then showed us the facility’s gigantic hand-assembled copper still, where the steam-propelled distillation magic happens. Here, passion, precision and innovation is everything, as illustrated by Monkey 47’s annual Distiller’s Cut (introduced in 2010), which takes the base Schwarzwald Dry Gin and incorporates a new botanical every year to yield a new variant. “We create about 5,000 bottles,” says de Git, underscoring the exclusivity of the brand, which is now owned by luxury French distiller Pernod Ricard. At present, though, gin drinkers in India can get their hands only on the Schwarzwald Dry Gin. Gin aside, no trip to the Black Forest is complete without a visit to Mummelsee Lake, which is where we found ourselves next. Legend says it is home to the King of the Lake and his mermaids. It is also 216

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

JADE FOREST: With flavours like grapefruit and elderflower, its website also features recipes to up your tipple. Jadeforest.in

SVAMI: This Mumbai brand features cooling flavours like cucumber, as well as caloriecutting variants. Svamidrinks.com

SEPOY & CO: Beautiful packaging and inventive flavours are the hallmarks of this Delhi-based brand. Sepoyandco.com

BENGAL BAY: Its organic mixer is made from naturally sandfiltered water from the terrain of Rajasthan. Bengalbaydrinks.com

said that the lake and the Black Forest region as a whole served as inspiration for many of the Brothers Grimm fairy tales. And at the end of the day, when all you want to do is find a place to lay your head, the five-star Traube Tonbach in Baiersbronn is the best candidate for miles around. This 230-year-old hotel has two Michelin-starred restaurants and a worldclass spa fed by the waters of the Buschbrunnen spring that will soothe tired limbs. At the in-house culinary school, try your hand at mastering local dishes such as spätzle (a type of German pasta) or assemble a kirsch-soaked black forest cake, because high spirits aside, another thing our countries have in common is that we like to eat. ■

©MONKEY 47

IN THE MIX

SHAKE IT UP

eccentric, time-tweaked recipe whose final product is as rich and multilayered as its origin story. So, there I was, alongside a bevy of bartenders, writers and mixologists, discovering a heritage that criss-crossed continents and learning about a gin that, with the help of Stein and the acclaimed distiller Christoph Keller, had been perfected to bring out three core elements—British tradition, the robustness of Indian spices and the offerings of the Black Forest—to yield a product they christened Monkey 47 as a tribute to Collins and Max.

Four Indian tonics that raise the bar

Clockwise from right: A hot gin drink prepared over a wood fire, featuring the juice of local plum, apple, lemon and grapefruit along with simple syrup, cinnamon, clove, and lemon and orange peels; Zum Wilden Affen’s herb garden; A Monkey 47 bottle doubles up as a herb holder

TASTE

The sweetest thing

The traditional mithai has been reinvented with modernday ingredients, flavours and techniques. Sonal Ved picks six new artisanal confections in time for Diwali Photographed by SAKINA ZOJWALA Art direction SNIGDHA KULKARNI

Beetroot-cranberry coconut sphere

Chocolate brownie gujiya

Taking beetroot powder out of your smoothie and into your dessert, this mithai mixes the powder with dry coconut and khoya with a cranberry pulp centre.

The Diwali staple gets a makeover—stuffed with a chocolate walnut brownie and painted not just with saccharine sugar syrup but also with a chocolate drizzle.

Everything your grandma asked you to eat (like ghee and cardamom), plus quinoa. It’s also gluten-free, low on carbs, and comes with a dairy-free version that uses coconut ghee.

Anand Sweets, Bengaluru, 60 per piece

Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai, 675 for 9 pieces

Zero Guilt by Archana Gupta, Mumbai, 600 for 8 pieces

Italian brut pistachio ladoo

Stop and stare at this gorgeous green ball, where a paste of Sicilian pistachios is mixed with honey to make ladoos crusted coarsely with ground nuts. Gur Chini, Delhi, 150 per piece

Quinoa ladoo

Apple pie barfi

Coconut caramel patisa

A take on the English dessert, where green apple-flavoured khoya turns into a barfi topped with gummy red apple-cinnamon compote and walnuts that sit pretty on an egg-free sablé.

Bombay Sweet Shop, Mumbai, 145 per piece

Bhawan, Delhi, 90 per piece

Flaky patisa wrapped in 56 per cent dark chocolate. Bite in and a layer of peppercaramel, coconut and molten marshmallow unfolds.

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 217

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ERRIKOS ANDREOU, VOGUE WEDDING BOOK 2019

SAVE THE DATE

FEBRUARY 2021 Plan your dream wedding with Vogue! Get easy access to the finest wedding brands from the comfort of your home BRIDAL DESIGNER WEAR | MENSWEAR | TROUSSEAU | GIFTING JEWELLERY | BEAUTY | WEDDING PLANNING SERVICES Brand Inquiries: [email protected] Consumer Inquiries: [email protected] *Dates are subject to change

DRESS UP AND SHOW UP

Inspired by Indian heritage, and influenced by the love of the Australian outdoor lifestyle, Sruti Jindal launched the first collection of her eponymous label in 2018. Armed with a bachelor's degree in business administration and a postgraduate degree in fashion design from Pearl Academy of Fashion in Delhi, Jindal worked with Tarun Tahiliani before she started her own label. With sustainability featuring high on her list of priorities, everything from design to fabric to production and packaging incorporates eco-friendly practices. Her latest collection, The Brocade, features ensembles that are perfect for casual soirées this festive season. For more information, visit Srutijindal.com, call 98186 20939 or follow @sruti.jindal.official on Instagram

Weaving A Legacy

Founded by handloom evangelist Nishant Malhotra, WeaverStory was started as an initiative to promote Indian handlooms. With an aim to showcase Indian design sensibilities and styling through their products and designs, the label’s constant endeavour is to work with master craftsmen to revive complex weaving techniques like baluchari, shikargah and kadhwa. To enhance the experience and also to avail a wide variety of Banarasi and chanderi handlooms, visit their flagship store in Saket, New Delhi. For more information, visit Weaverstory.com, call 9810646345 or follow @real_weaverstory on Instagram

Vogue

DIARY

This November, we bring you the best in luxury and fashion BEST IN CLASS

Tis’ The Gifting Sea

son

If you are loo king for the p erfe this festive se ason, your se ct gifting option arch ends at Magnifique.c The o, a label est a b lished under Online Pvt. MBj Ltd., which is an autonom of The Hou ous entity se of MBj—a 120-year-old jewellery lab heritage el. The label houses gorg handcrafted eous 92.5 with semi-pre silver items that are ado rned ciou less than besp s stones, making them n othing oke works of art. Choose range of silv fr erware span ning the cate om a home decor, g o ri es of bar corporate gif accessories, kitchenware and ting. For more in formation o n The Magnif ique.co, call 916333000 follow @the 9 or magnifique co on Instag ram 220

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

Renowned dry cleaning and cobbler services brand Pressto was recently awarded as the best dry cleaner by Economic Times. Esther Lennaerts, founder and director, Pressto India, received the award for Revolutionising the Fabric and Leather Care Industry with Innovative Technology for their 42 stores across MMR, NCR and Bengaluru. Since its inception in India in 2008, the brand boasts of having serviced over 200,000 customers and repaired over 10 million items. Known for its highest global standards, the brand is fast expanding operations to other Indian cities. To locate the nearest Pressto in your city, visit Presstoindia.com/locate-us-2 or call 9167188355.

GREEN IS GREAT

Naso, India’s first green perfumery, launched their new campaign ‘profumi il sesso’ or Scent for Sex. All of Naso’s products have essential oils which are extracted in their distilleries in-house as their base component. Many of these essential oils are natural aphrodisiacs that encourage intimacy and with that thought in mind, Naso’s pure soy wax candles are infused with essential oils that promote feelings of comfort, ease and love. From pepper infused with wood and, tamarind infused in bergamot, the intense scents not only promotes intimacy, but also has antibacterial medicinal properties. For more information, visit Nasoprofumi.com or follow @nasoprofumi on Instagram

e c n e i xper

tive d crea ade n a g ylin r-m ent st nising tailo e v e g fin rga ferin rm of ation for o the best in ed i f e u d rm ut tiq a bou ained a rep designs an ntly transfo te a — s e i r late Sto as g ebra rece f Mai s—Maitri h ng immacu ai Stories taad to cel elabras, o r e d Foun ing service clients. Usi eriences, M halet in Gs rystal cand re to a c r lt p consu nces for he dipitous ex Le Petite C urniture to lain tablew f s n ce ie exper o host sere the famou d wooden nd fine por .in e t o t a t f ories t s i a dining ry studio in m handcra e accents, y. in e w @m o ur a pott irthday. Fr dles to Alp ome of lux m or follo n o it ’s b client scented ca was the ep aistories.c r e i M fondu re, the affa on , visit a ti glassw e informa or For m gram sta on In

A

E e k o Besp

A FESTIVE HOME MAKEOVER

This Diwali, transform your space with minimal effort by jazzing up just the walls. Deriving inspiration from nature, opt to drape your home walls in a striking wallpaper from design label Skaid that is the brainchild of founder Kish Dusharla. Talking about the thought behind the designs, Dusharla says, “Nothing beats the beauty of nature. Being impartial to every colour, this wallpaper is a palette of vibrant hues, with the winged horse, Pegasus, symbolising power, freedom and innate talent. Blending these forms an eye-catching image of nature’s fury and harmony.” For more information, visit Skaids.com or follow @skaiddesigns on Instagram

Rooted In Tradition

Rooted, the latest collection from diamond boutique brand Zoya, from the House of Tatas, salutes the inner strength of a woman and pays tribute to her resilience. Launched virtually by celebrated designer Gauri Khan, the collection draws inspiration from the world’s rainforests that have stood tall for 55 million years and their immense strength preserved in the face of climatic upheavals. It features over 45 exquisite pieces that flaunt aesthetic designs and impeccable craftsmanship. For more information, visit Zoya.in/rooted

Fashion Central

The search for India’s next big fashion influencer heats up again as the second season of Myntra Fashion Superstar @MTV, powered by H&M, hits screens. The eight-part fashion reality series will stream every Tuesday on Myntra Studio and air on MTV every Sunday at 7pm, starting November 1. The theme for this year, #MFSChangeTheConversation, focuses on how influencers can bring about a positive change. The big prize? Winning the title of India’s next Fashion Superstar and landing an exclusive one-year influencer contract with Myntra worth `1 million. For more information, visit Myntra.com/growth/fashion-superstar

A BRIDAL AFFAIR

Designer Jyoti Sachdev Iyer’s eponymous label offers beautiful ensembles that are rooted in tradition yet flaunt a contemporary aesthetic— perfect for today’s bride. Inspired by Mughal architecture, the brand’s latest collection, Mahtab, abides by a ‘less is more’ philosophy and features tikri work on the garments that are embellished in tonal thread work. Available in gorgeous ivory and pastel hues, these outfits are perfect for the modern bride. Available at leading multi-designer outlets across India. For more information, call 91 9742777784 or follow @jyotisachdevofficial on Instagram

SHOPLIST THE MERCHANDISE FEATURED EDITORIALLY HAS BEEN ORDERED AT THE FOLLOWING STORES. SOME SHOPS MAY CARRY A SELECTION ONLY. PRICES AND AVAILABILITY WERE CHECKED AT THE TIME OF GOING TO PRESS. BUT WE CANNOT GUARANTEE THAT PRICES WILL NOT CHANGE OR THAT SPECIFIC ITEMS WILL BE IN STOCK WHEN THE MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED. WE SUGGEST THAT BEFORE VISITING A SHOP YOU CALL TO MAKE SURE THEY HAVE YOUR SIZE

FASHION 431-88: Delhi 8512843188 (www.431-88.com) Ajio: (www.ajio.com) Alberta Ferretti: (www.albertaferretti.com) (www.net-a-porter.com) Alessandra Rich: (www.alessandrarich.com) Alex Perry: (www.neta-porter.com) Alexander McQueen: Le Mill, Mumbai 022-22041925, London 0044-20-73550088, New York 001-212-6451797 (www. alexandermcqueen.com) Alice + Olivia: New York 001-212-8400887 (www.aliceandolivia.com) (www.farfetch.com) Alighieri: (www.alighieri. co.uk) Anita Dongre: Mumbai 8425880425, Delhi 011-41035862 (www.anitadongre.com) Anomaly by Anam: (www.ensembleindia.com) Anushka Khanna: Mumbai 022-28514876 (www.anushkakhanna.com) April And Alex: (www.aprilandalex.co.uk) Aquazzura: London 004420-38280433, Paris 0033-1-48741768, New York 001-347-3280080 (www.aquazzura.com) (www.net-a-porter.com) Area: (www.area.nyc) Arpita Mehta: Mumbai 7506633202 (arpitamehtaofficial.com) Ashish: (ashish.co.uk) Balmain: Le Mill, Mumbai 022-22041925, Paris 00331-4720-5758, London 0044-2037501241, New York 001-212-9664200 (www.balmain.com) (www.farfetch.com) Barry Wang: (www. barrywang.com) Beach Riot: (www.beachriot.com) Bhavya Ramesh: (www.bhavyaramesh.com) Bottega Veneta: Mumbai 022-66152291, Delhi 011-46098272, Bengaluru 080-41738931, London 0044-2078389394 (www.bottegaveneta.com) Brother Vellies: New York 001718-3893809 (www.brothervellies.com) (www.net-a-porter.com) (www. matchesfashion.com) Burberry: Mumbai 022-40801994, Delhi 01146529850, London 0044-20-78068904, Paris 0033-1-72070021, New York 001-212-4077100 (www.burberry.com) Celine: Le Mill, Mumbai 022-22041925, London 0044-20-71996866, Paris 0033-1-42843583, New York 001-212-2268001 (www.celine.com) Chanel: Delhi 01141116840, London 0044-20-74935040, Paris 0033-1-44506600, New York 001-212-5355505 (www.chanel.com) Charles & Keith: (www. myntra.com) Chris Habana: (www.chrishabanajewelry.com) Christopher Esber: (www.christopheresber.com.au) Christopher Kane: London 0044-20-74933111 (www.farfetch.com) David Koma: (www.davidkoma. com) Diaboli Kill: (www.diabolikill.com) Dior: Mumbai 022-67499091, Delhi 011-46005900, London 0044-20-73555930, Paris 0033-140209956, New York 001-212-931-2950 (www.dior.com) Dolce & Gabbana: (www.dolceandgabbana.com) (www.matchesfashion.com) Etro: London 0044-20-74939004, Paris 0033-1-40070940, New York 001-212-3179096 (www.etro.com) Faabiiana Jaipur: 9783199999 Falguni Shane Peacock: Mumbai 022-67415593, Delhi 011-41402001 (falgunishanepeacock.in) Fendi: Delhi 011-46040777, London 004420-79274172, Paris 0033-1-49528452, New York 001-212-8972244 (www.fendi.com) (www.net-a-porter.com) Frontier Raas: Delhi 01145279900, London 0044-20-88432461 (www.frontierraas.com) Gigi Burris: (www.gigiburris.com) Givenchy: London 0044-20-71992919, Paris 0033-1-44439990, New York 001-212-6500180 (www.givenchy.

222

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

com) Gucci: Mumbai 022-30277060, Delhi 011-146471111, London 0044-20-76292716 (www.gucci.com) H&M: Mumbai 022-43473123, Delhi 011-40870717(www2.hm.com) Helmut Lang: (www.helmutlang. com) Hermès: Mumbai 022-22717400, Delhi 011-26885501, London 0044-20-74998856, Paris 0033-1-40174600, New York 001-2122571600 (www.hermes.com) Isabel Marant: (www.isabelmarant. com) Isharya: Mumbai 9167007400, Delhi 9136457663 (www.isharya. com) Jade by Monica & Karishma: Mumbai 022-2353-3635 (www. jadebymk.info) Jennifer Behr: (www.jenniferbehr.com) JJ Valaya: New Delhi 8800554491 (www.azafashions.com) Jonathan Simkhai: (www. jonathansimkhai.com) KoAi: Ensemble, Mumbai 022-22843227, Ogaan, Delhi 9711991998 (www.koai.in) Koovs: (www.koovs.com) Kshitij Jalori: (www.kshitijjalori.com) (www.aashniandco.com) LaQuan Smith: (www.laquansmith.com) Lajjoo C: Mumbai 9136186516 (www.lajjooc. com) Louis Vuitton: Mumbai 022-66644135, Delhi 011-46690000, London 0044-20-79986286, Paris 0033-1-977404077, New York 001212-7588877 (www.louisvuitton.com) Madhappy: (www.madhappy. com) Mango: Mumbai 022-49707667, Delhi 011-42658160 (www. shop.mango.com) Manish Malhotra: Mumbai 9833946835, Delhi 9818684859 (www.manishmalhotra.in) Massimo Dutti: Mumbai 02262370732, Delhi 011-42148065 (www.massimodutti.com) Michael Michael Kors: Mumbai 022-28892180, Delhi 011-42111945, Bengaluru 080-22682028 (www.michaelkors.com) Mohey from the House of Manyavar: Mumbai 022-24974553 (www.manyavar.com) Monies: (www.monies.dk) Moschino: (www.moschino.com) Nalli: Mumbai 02242124444, Chennai 044-24343344 (www.nalli.com) Nike: Mumbai 022-26461994, Delhi 011-43465268, Bengaluru 080-41464087 (www.nike.com/in/) Oscar de la Renta: (www.oscardelarenta.com) Outhouse: Mumbai 7710008481, Delhi 011-26114042 (www.outhousejewellery.com) Paco Rabanne: (www.pacorabanne.com) Pebble London: (www.pebblelondon.com) Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini: London 0044-2072352349, Paris 0033-7-85024937 (www.philosophyofficial. com) (www.farfetch.com) Plutonia Blue: (www.plutoniablue.com) Port & Praire: (www.net-a-porter.com) Prada: London 0044-2076475000, Paris 0033-1-53239940, New York 001-212-3348888 (www.prada.com) Punit Balana: Jaipur 9829790326 Ralph Lauren

Collection: The Collective, Mumbai 022-40234414, London 0044-2075354600, Paris 0033-1-44772800, New York, 001-212-6062100 (www.ralphlauren.com) Rasario: (www.therasario.com) Rene Caovilla: (www.renecaovilla.com) Ritu Kumar: Mumbai 022-22045702 (www. ritukumar.com) Rosie Assoulin: (www.rosieassoulin.com) Sabyasachi: Mumbai 022-22044774, Delhi 9810311155 (www.sabyasachi.com) Sergio Rossi: (www.sergiorossi.com) Shantanu & Nikhil: Mumbai 022-226403502, Delhi 011-41096650 (www.shantanunikhil.com) Sheetal Zaveri by Vithaldas: (https://sheetalzaveri.design) Silvia Tcherassi: (www.silviatcherassi.com) Suhani Pittie: (www.suhanipittie. com) Tarun Tahiliani: Mumbai 022-22870895, Delhi 9910006281 (www.taruntahiliani.com) Ted Baker: (www.tedbaker.com) The Attico: (www.theattico.com) (www.matchesfashion.com) (www.farfetch.com) Topshop: (www.topshop.com) Torani: Delhi 8700969159 (www.torani. in) Tory Burch: (www.toryburch.com) Valentino Garavani: London 0044-20-76472520, Paris 0033-1-44398000, New York 001-2123555811 (www.valentino.com) (www.farfetch.com) Vasansi Jaipur: Jaipur 0141-663-1200 (www.vasansi.com) Vero Moda: Mumbai 02243473780, Delhi 011-43717131 (www.veromoda.com) Versace: Delhi 011-48970000, Paris 0033-1-47428802, London 0044-20-72256770 (www.versace.com) (www. matchesfashion.com) Victoria Beckham: London 0044-20-70420700 (www.victoriabeckham. com) (www.farfetch.com) Vipul Shah: Udaipur 9950711198, 9166007722 (www.vipulshahbags.com) Vivienne Westwood: (www.viviennewestwood.com) Vogue Eyewear: London 0044-21-47483647 (www. vogue-eyewear.com) Zara: Mumbai 022-45421800, Delhi 011-41680854 (www.zara.com) Zimmermann: Le Mill, Mumbai 022-22041925, London 0044-2079522710, Paris 0033-1-73015147, New York 001212-4868080 (www.zimmermannwear.com)

JEWELLERY & WATCHES Anmol Jewellers: Mumbai 022-61333444 (www. anmoljewellers.in) Audemars Piguet: Kapoor Watch, Delhi 011-46767777 Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jaipur: Jaipur 0141-2379228 (www.bgjewellers. in) Breguet: Time Avenue, Mumbai 022-26515757, Johnson Watch Co, Delhi 011-41517518, The Helvetica, Chennai 044-28464096, Exclusive Lines, Kolkata 033-22820626 Cartier: DLF Emporio, Delhi 011-46788888, London 0044-20-73183977, Paris 0033-1-58182300 (www.cartier.com) Chanel: Delhi 011-68136500, Paris 0033-8-20002005 Chopard: Time Keepers, Mumbai 9619888888, Johnson Watch Co, Delhi 011-41517518, London 0044-20-74093140 DiaColor: (www.dia-color.com) Forevermark Diamonds: (www.forevermarkdiamonds.com) Goenka India: (www.goenkaindia.com) Hazoorilal by Sandeep Narang GK-1: Delhi 011-41734567 (www.hazoorilaljewellers. com) Hazoorilal Legacy, South Extension: Delhi 011-48733333 (www. hazoorilallegacy.com) Hermès: Mumbai 022-22717404, Delhi 01126885501 (www.hermes.com) House of MBj: Delhi 9810831950 IWC Schaffhausen: Rose - The Watch Bar, Mumbai 022-23620277, Johnson Watch Co, Delhi 011-41517518 Jaipur Gems: Mumbai 022-66356881 (www.jaipurgems.com) Orra: Mumbai: 022-23680606 (www.orra. co.in) Panerai: Mumbai 022-22885052, Johnson Watch Co, Delhi 011-41517518 Rado: Mumbai 022-26489174, Delhi 011-43575253,

Chennai 044-28464224, Kolkata 033-22814466, Hyderabad 04023558663 Raj Mahatani Couture Jewels: Mumbai 022-23622221 (www.rajmahtani.com) Raniwala 1881: Jaipur 0141-2214002/08 (www.raniwalajewellers.com) Reliance Jewels: Mumbai 022-66990187 (www.reliancejewels.net) Renu Oberoi Luxury Jewellery: Mumbai 022-26559000 Richard Mille: (www.richardmille.com) Sabyasachi Fine Jewellery: 83369-01259 (www.sabyasachijewelry.com) Sunita Shekhawat Jaipur: Jaipur 0141-2361385/95, Delhi 011-24331395/97 (www.sunitashekhawat.com) Tanishq: (www.tanishq.co.in) Thakorlal Hiralal: Mumbai 022-40028248 (www.thakorlalhiralal.com) Zoya - A Tata Product: Mumbai 022-40636100, Delhi 011-40450149 (www. zoya.in)

BEAUTY Avène: (www.aveneindia.com) Alpha-H: (www.alpha-h.com) Bioderma: (www.biodermaindia.com) Cetaphil: Health & Glow, Mumbai 022250500, New U, Delhi 011-46075432, Bengaluru 080-65703428 Celebrity Fridge: (www.glowmartindia.com) Charlotte Tilbury: (www.nykaa.com) Dame Essentials: (www.dameessentials.com) Dior: Shoppers Stop, Mumbai 022-26256271, DLF Emporio, Delhi 011-41505161, UB City, Bengaluru 080-43401300 D.S. & Durga: Scentido, Kermani Building,Ground Floor, Sir P.M. Road, Fort, Mumbai Guerlain: Shoppers Stop, Mumbai 022-42492100, Delhi 011-40870400 Jo Malone London: (www. jomalone.in) Kiro: (www.kiro-beauty.com) Kérastase: BBlunt, Mumbai 022-65980301, Bella Madonna, Delhi 011-40536969, Oryza Day Spa, Bengaluru 080-41328320 Limese: (www. nykaa.com) L’Oréal Paris: Shoppers Stop, Mumbai 022-40746000, Lifestyle, Delhi 011-46098300, Bengaluru 080-41796565 Louis Vuitton: Mumbai 022-66644135, Delhi 011-46690000, London 0044-20-79986286, Paris 0033-1-977404077, New York 001-212-7588877 Maskeraide (https://maccaron.in) M.A.C: Palladium, Mumbai 022-43473771, DLF Promenade, Delhi 01146696060, Bengaluru 080-41126844, Kolkata 033-22830869 Paula’s Choice (www.amazon. in) Shiseido: Parcos, Mumbai 022-23643685, Debenhams, Delhi 011-46010386, Health & Glow, Bengaluru 080-32466446 Sesderma: (www.sesderma.co.in) The Face Shop: Sephora, Select Citywalk, Delhi 011-41349797 Yves Saint Laurent: Lifestyle, Mumbai 022-56669200, Shoppers Stop, Delhi 011-40870400, Bengaluru 080-43401300

LIVING Anand Sweets: Bengaluru (www.anandsweets. in) Bambord: (www.bamford.com) Barbie: (https://barbie.mattel. com) Bhawan Delhi: (https://bhawandelhi.com) Bombay Sweet Shop: Mumbai (https://bombaysweetshop.com) Bordallo Pinheiro: (https:// international.bordallopinheiro.com) Être Cécile: (https://etrececile.com) Four Seasons Hotel Mumbai: (www.fourseasons.com) Gur Chini: Delhi (https://gurchini.com) Lucie Kaas: (https://luciekaas.com) Monkey 47: (https://monkey47.com) Tacchini: (www.tacchini.it) Traube Tonbach: (www.traube-tonbach.de) Vista Alegre: (https://vistaalegre.in) Zero Guilt by Archana Gupta: Mumbai (www.zeroguiltbyarchana.com)

www.vogue.in VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 223

CNTRAVELLER.IN

1.1M+ affluent travellers. 1 Destination. Connect & Engage with a discerning audience only on our digital platforms

THE OPPORTUNITIES: Display Ads, carousels, native stories, microsites, videos, social media posts and more For advertising queries please contact - [email protected]

Social Followers

1.4M+

Website Users

1.1M+

All figures mentioned above are as on October 2020

PS

Every once in a while, there comes a woman that the rest of us can’t help talking about. Kamala Harris is one of those, but to be fair, her career trajectory itself has been a talking point. Born to a cancer researcher mother from India and an economist father from Jamaica, here is an immigrant life story that has made it to the power corridors of America—she is the 2020 equivalent of the American Dream. The first Indian-origin senator in the States and now the first Black and Indian American woman to be the Democratic nominee for vice president at the time of going to press, Harris’s legacy is likely to be part of our history books.

226

VOGUE INDIA NOVEMBER 2020 www.vogue.in

ZOE GHERTNER

Her side of history