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China (DK Eyewitness Travel Guide) Part 2 Flipbook PDF
China (DK Eyewitness Travel Guide) Part 2
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THE NORTHEAST Introducing the Northeast 434–441 Liaoning, Jilin & Heilongjiang
442–461
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THE NORTHEAST
Amur (Heilong Jiang)
Mohe (Xilinji)
The Northeast at a Glance
Fengshui Shan 1398m
Tahe
Lying in the peripheral corner of China, the Northeast (Dongbei) abounds in raw beauty and mineral wealth, and was inhabited for centuries by indomitable tribes including the Khitan, Mongols, and Jurchen (Manchu), the latter ruling China for over 250 years. Today, the region’s three provinces of Liaoning, Jilin, and Heilongjiang form China’s industrial heartland, although the many lakes, mountains, and rugged borderlands offer scenic getaways. In Liaoning, Shenyang’s palaces are testament to its great Manchu past, while Dalian is a fast-moving city with architectural marvels. The city of Jilin, once the capital of Manchukuo (1933–45), the puppet state installed by the Japanese, has stunning winter landscapes. Changchun, the capital of Jilin province, has a thriving automobile industry, while Heilongjiang is famed for its Harbin Ice Festival.
Bishui a Sh uli Yileh
Linhai
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Nenjiang
WU DA LIAN CHI Keshan Gannan
Fuyu
Qiqihar
Mingshui
ZHALONG NATURE RESERVE
Taikang
Jiang Nen
Daqing
Tailai
Zhaodong
Zhenlai Da’an
Taonan
Anda
Zhaoyuan
Qianguo Fuyu
Tongyu
Dehui
The ornate paifang or gateway to the rugged scenery of Bingyu Valley (Bingyu Gou), Liaoning
Changling
Nong’an
CHANGCHUN Gongzhuling Yitong
Siping
Sights at a Glance
Liaoyuan
1 Shenyang Chifeng
Zhangwu
3 Dandong 5 Dalian 6 Changchun
Beipiao Chaoyang
7 Jilin 9 Harbin 0 Mudanjiang Jingpo Hu 4 Bingyu Valley
Suizhong
w Wu Da Lian Chi & the
River Border
SHENYANG
Beining
Huludao
8 Changbai Shan pp454–5 q Zhalong Nature Reserve
Fuxin
Fushun
Yingkou Liaodong Wan
Beijing Changxing Dao
Anshan Haicheng Gaizhou
Pulandian Changshan Jinxian Qundao
DALIAN
Cattle being led through the snow
Benxi Kuandian
Ji’an
Y
Fengcheng
DANDONG BINGYU VALLEY Zhuanghe
Xizhong Dao an nW dia lan u P
Tonghua
Liaoyang
JINZHOU Jianchang
Meihekou
He Liao
LIAONING
Lingyuan
Panshi
Kaiyuan
al u
2 Jinzhou
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435
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Offering incense at the Buddhist Jile Si, Harbin
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Sunwu
Jiayin (Chaoyang)
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Minor road
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International border Provincial border
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Dongjing
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Baishan
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Wangqing g Lin Pa n
Antu
Yanji
Hunchun
Erdaobaihe
CHANGBAI SHAN
Linjiang
The icy blue waters of the volcanic Tian Chi – Heaven’s Lake – in Changbai Shan
Getting There The major cities – Shenyang, Dalian, Changchun, Harbin, and Jilin – are connected to Beijing by air and rail. There are express buses from Beijing to Shenyang, Dalian, and Changchun. Regular trains and buses also ply within the region. A few flights operate between the major cities, including Harbin and Dalian. In winter, popular destinations such as Jilin and Harbin are relatively easy to reach, while remoter areas such as Jingpo Hu and Changbai Shan are more difficult to access. Within cities, taxis are the best option.
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A PORTRAIT OF THE NORTHEAST Sandwiched between Russia, Korea, and Inner Mongolia, the three northeastern provinces constitute China’s easternmost extent. Even though the prevalent culture is Han Chinese, the Northeast’s geography, history, and extended external boundaries have shaped a distinct regional identity. The region’s attractions range from the bustling sprawl of its big cities to the rugged, and sublime terrain beyond, and the cultural mix of its border towns. It is hard to categorize the Northeast (Dongbei) – it enjoys hot summers but glacial winters, and while heavy industry and socialist planning blight some cityscapes, others sport elegant pockets of colonial architecture. And while parts of the region have been revelling in China’s economic boom, others have suffered from chronic unemployment. Encompassing the three provinces of Liaoning, Jilin, and Heilongjiang, the Northeast was a latecomer to the Chinese empire and is sometimes considered as little more than an appendix to the rest of the country. As part of former Manchuria, however, it was the cradle of the magnificent civilization that ruled China
Stately Russian architecture in Daliqu district, Harbin
from 1644 until 1912. Shenyang, Liaoning’s present capital, became the Manchu capital in 1625, and the site of the Imperial Palace. Here they perfected their Eight Banner system of color-coded hereditary social and administrative divisions (see pp438–9). Taking advantage of the overthrow of the Ming dynasty in 1644, they moved their capital to the Forbidden City in Beijing. Even today, the region’s Manchu population take great pride in their heritage and still adhere to the Eight Banners. In more recent times, the Northeast attracted the attentions of Russia and Japan, both of which have helped shape the region’s destiny. At the end of the 19th
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Unlike the sophisticated cuisine of Hong Kong and Shanghai, the local food – including jiaozi (dumplings), dun (stews), and tudou (potatoes) – is hearty and filling. The temperament of the people matches the vigorous landscapes that range from dense forest to volcanic regions and the tough terrain along the Russian and North Korean borders. These areas offer plenty of outdoor options including Façade of the Puppet Emperor’s Palace, Changchun trekking and bird-watching, century the Russians, interested in the ice- particularly in Zhalong Nature Reserve. The border town of Dandong has a free port of Lushun, tried to annexe parts thriving tourist industry, catering mainly of Manchuria and built part of the Transto North Korean visitors. Siberian Railway line, before being Despite the unfortunate effects humiliated by Japan. The area suffered of industrialization, there is much again during the Japanese worth seeing. The onion domes occupation of the 1930s and 40s, and Byzantine ornamentation when it was renamed Manchukuo visible in Harbin’s buildings are and Pu Yi was installed as Puppet distinctly Russian, a legacy of the Emperor. The brutal occupation left city’s cross-cultural links. Dalian, on deep scars on the region’s psyche along with some pitiful sights, such Door handle Confucius the Yellow Sea, is a dynamic and Temple progressive city that has enjoyed as the Japanese Germ Warfare the same economic success as Experimental Base near Harbin. Shanghai. Known as the “Hong Kong Japanese occupation came to an end of the North,” it adds an affluent touch after World War II, ushering in a period of industrialization under Chairman Mao. His to the Northeastern rustbelt. camaraderie with Russia in the 1950s resulted in the installation of a Stalinist state-sector economy. The peaceful relationship was shortlived and conflicts soon flared along the border. The Northeast’s rich mineral wealth has made it China’s industrial heartland. However, under-investment and ruthless downsizing with huge state-sector layoffs have resulted in high unemployment. Centuries of hardship have molded the character of the Dongbeiren (Northeasterners). Resolute, unaffected, forthright, and hospitable, they are looked upon by their compatriots as a hardy, stalwart people, prone to hard drinking. Taller and stockier than their southern cousins, they speak Mandarin A secluded bay by the blue waters of the volcanic Jingpo Hu, Heilongjiang with a coarse, albeit intelligible accent.
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The Manchu Dynasty The final overlords of the Middle Kingdom, the Manchus from the northeast, took advantage of a China weakened by peasant rebellion to invade and establish the Qing or “pure” dynasty in 1644. This foreign Manchu court preserved much of China’s governing apparatus and over time absorbed local ways. Despite providing some of China’s most illustrious emperors, including Kangxi (see p128) and Qianlong, the Qing declined into an ineffectual torpor. Coupled with the seizure of territories by foreign powers, the qing failure to modernize led to the collapse of Manchu legitimacy and the final downfall of the dynasty.
The queue, a long plaited hairstyle that has come to symbolize Chinese traditions, was a Manchu import imposed on Han Chinese men.
The Court at the Forbidden City Like the Ming before them, the Manchu Qing established their court in Beijing. The Manchus were the last dynastic occupants of the Forbidden City. Served by as many as 3,000 eunuchs, they were immersed in a court life of arcane ceremony and ritual until the dynasty was unseated by the founding of the Republic of China in 1912.
Nurhachi (1559–1626), the first Manchu emperor, organized the scattered tribes of the northeast into eight banner units in the early 17th century. He moved his capital to Shenyang, but did not live to see the subjugation of China. After his death, his son Abahai established the Qing dynasty in 1636 and proceeded to invade China.
The Manchu Imperial Palace in Shenyang was begun during Nurhachi’s reign and completed by Abahai. In 1644, when the Manchus toppled the Ming, the Shenyang complex became a “travelling palace”, used by the emperor during tours of inspection.
Elaborate summer camping trips in Inner Mongolia were undertaken by the early Qing rulers, as a break from Confucian court life. They hunted, practiced archery, and slept in yurts, in order to preserve their Manchu vigor.
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Qianlong (r. 1735–1796), the fourth Qing emperor, was a generous patron of the arts. His lengthy reign was also marked by territorial expansion, including the absorption of Xinjiang, and was largely a period of Chinese prosperity.
Yuanming Yuan, the Garden of Perfect Brightness (see p109), was designed by Jesuits for the Qianlong emperor. Much of its grandiose architecture was destroyed by French and English troops in 1860. Jesuit missionary Adam Schall von Bell (1591–1666) impressed the Manchu court with his knowledge of astronomy. The Jesuits realized that having influence in China required mastering the Confucian Classics and Mandarin.
In 1793, Lord Macartney arrived with elaborate gifts from King George III, seeking to establish trade between Britain and China. Macartney was rebuffed by the Qianlong emperor, who refused Britain a single concession.
The Boxer Rebellion The Boxers, a band of xenophobic rebels from north China who rose up to rid China of the “foreign devils,” drew from superstitious rituals that they believed made them invulnerable. Cixi, seeking an opportunity to strike back at the foreign powers, allied herself to their cause. The rebels laid waste to Beijing’s Legation Quarter in 1900, while besieging the district’s foreign population. The siege was finally lifted by an eight-power allied force. The Qing government was forced to sign The Boxer Protocol which, among other conditions, allowed the stationing of foreign troops in Beijing. Boxer massacre of Chinese Christians
The Empress Dowager, Cixi (see p107), was deeply conservative and a shrewd manipulator. Dismissive of foreign powers, she appointed pro-Boxer Prince Duan as Minister of Foreign Affairs.
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Trans-Siberian Railway The term Trans-Siberian Railway refers to three services: the Trans-Siberian, the Trans-Mongolian, and the TransManchurian. In 1891 Russia decided to join the extremities of its empire by rail. A short cut through Manchuria was negotiated with China and the line was completed in 1903. War with Japan forced the Russians to cede the railroad to them in 1905 and build a new line skirting Manchuria – the Trans-Siberian route was finished in 1916. The Trans-Mongolian route was added in the 1940s and 50s. In an era of jet travel, this epic week-long journey is an experience not to be missed.
Conductor and train on the Trans-Siberian Railway
Orthodox priest running a mobile religious service in Manchuria at the turn of the 20th century. Today the historic Russian presence in the Northeast can still be seen in Harbin, Lushun, and border towns like Manzhouli.
Steam trains were finally replaced in 2002, although electrification began in 1939. Because of differences in the track widths of Chinese and Russian lines, huge cranes lift the carriages up onto the correct width “bogeys” when crossing the border. This 1907 poster advertises the romance of a winter trip on the Trans-Siberian Railway. The poster’s distinct Japanese feel derives from Japan’s occupation of Manchuria and Korea at the time.
The standard of luxury is reasonable. (The Chinese deluxe carriage has showers.) If the dining car doesn’t appeal, at each stop there’s a throng of vendors on the platforms selling goods.
The train carves its way through the grasslands of the north Manchurian plain.
INTRODUCING THE NORTHEAST
The longest railway service in the world at nearly 6,000 miles (9,500 km), it takes up to 7 days to cover the journey.
R U S S I A N
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F E D E R AT I O N
Yekaterinburg Lake Baykal
Omsk
Moscow
Ulan-Ude
Irkutsk
Key KAZAKHSTAN
Trans-Siberian Trans-Mongolian
MONGOLIA
Harbin Vladivostok
C H I N A
Trans-Manchurian
Beijing
Trans-Manchurian Railway The Vostok makes the six-day trip once a week from Beijing through Shanhaiguan and Harbin, before heading through the spectacular Manchurian plain, the huge expanse of Russia, and back.
The TransMongolian is probably the most interesting route of the three: it goes through China – past the Great Wall and Datong, site of the Yungang Caves; via Mongolia and its grasslands; and finally through the expanse of Russia. However, it also requires three visas.
Lake Baykal’s cliffs proved problematic for the builders. They had to chisel miles of tunnels out of solid rock and construct many bridges. It was worth it in the end because the southern end of the lake provides all three lines with some of the most picturesque scenery of the trip.
Travelers’ Tips • You can book tickets through Seat 61 ∑ seat61.com • Summer is the peak season; fall is quieter; the train is heated, but winter can be very cold outside. • Bring dried noodle snacks, hot chocolate, a bowl, and cutlery as there is boiling water on tap. • Arrange for at least one or two stops on the way – separate ticket required for each stop. • Be prepared to drink vodka.
Looking out the window occupies most of your time on the trip – when not meeting other travelers.
Moscow is the end (or indeed start) for the three Trans-Siberian Railway services. It is possible to go on to St. Petersburg and the Baltic Sea. However, Moscow has plenty of museums, churches, and grand architecture to see, and deserves a few days of exploration.
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HEILONGJIANG JILIN LIAONING
Stretching from Shanhaiguan – the Great Wall’s terminus at the Yellow Sea – to the Siberian borders in the north, the provinces of Liaoning, Jilin, and Heilongjiang cover 309,000 sq miles (800,000 sq km), an area larger than Spain and Portugal. With a population of over 100 million, they offer a variety of landscapes from seaside ports to expanses of uninhabited forests and mountains. The region was once part of erstwhile Manchuria, and the lavish palace of the Manchu kings at Shenyang in the heart of Liaoning stands testament to their might. On Liaoning’s balmier southern coast, Dalian features scenic coastal drives and fine, sandy beaches. As the only ice-free port in the area, it was coveted by both Japan and Russia, and occupied continuously by one or the other between 1895 and 1955. Japan’s imperialist stamp also survives in Jilin’s capital, Changchun, from where China’s last emperor, Pu Yi, ruled the Japanese state of Manchukuo as a mere puppet. In Heilongjiang, the city of Harbin has heavy Russian overtones, clearly evident in its buildings and
A secluded sandy cove in the Bangchuidao Scenic Area, Dalian Interior of St. Sofia Church in Harbin
restaurants, while strong Korean influences color Dandong town, situated along the North Korean border. Also straddling the border is the rugged, spectacular Changbai Shan Reserve, which abounds in lush, jagged peaks and hiking opportunities. Its volcanic lake, Tian Chi, is China’s deepest, rumored to be home to a mysterious aquatic beast. Other natural attractions include Liaoning’s Bingyu Valley with its towering rock formations, Heilongjiang’s volcanic lakes – Wu Da Lian Chi and Jingpo Hu, and the huge bird sanctuary at Zhalong Nature Reserve, whose marshy expanse supports hundreds of species of birds during the summer breeding season.
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Shenyang
Capital of Liaoning province and the largest city in the Northeast, Shenyang may lack the panache of Dalian, but it serves as an important transport and industrial hub at the heart of the province. Of strategic importance in the state of Yan during the Warring States period (475–221 BC), the town was first called Shenyang during the Mongol Yuan dynasty, before rising to prominence as the first Manchu capital in 1625, when it was known as Mukden and was chosen as the setting for the Imperial Palace, a splendid rival to Beijing’s Forbidden City.
with sinuous dragons. It was here that Shunzhi (Aisin Gioro Fulin) was crowned as the first Qing emperor, before he conquered China in 1644. In front of the hall stand the Ten King Pavilions, once used as offices by the chieftains of the “Eight Banners” – the Manchu system of land and hereditary divisions. The palace has undergone extensive restoration, and the halls are all open to visitors. It achieved UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 2004. P Mao Statue
Zhongshan Square.
The statue of Mao Zedong situated in Zhongshan Square in downtown Shenyang stands as a reminder of a vanished era. Mao statues tower over public squares across China, including such far-flung outposts as Lijiang (see pp396–7) in Yunnan and Kashgar (see pp514–15) in Xinjiang, but this example is perhaps the most histrionic, depicting Mao’s giant monolithic figure as a superman in an overcoat. A throng of visitors outside the Dazheng Hall, Imperial Palace
North Pagoda
27 Beita Jie. Tel (024) 8661 4081. P Imperial Palace
171 Shenyang Lu. Tel (024) 2484 4192. Open summer: 8:30am–5:30pm, winter: 9am–4:30pm. & ^ interiors.
Second only in scale to the Forbidden City in Beijing, the Imperial Palace, also called Shenyang Gugong, is Shenyang’s premier historical sight, situated in what was the center of the old city. Its construction began in 1625, during the reign of Nurhachi (1559–1626), leader of the Manchus. In 1644, Manchu troops breached the Great Wall at Shanhaiguan (see p134) and swarmed into China to establish the Qing dynasty. Serving as the imperial residence of both Nurhachi and his son and heir Abahai, the palace is composed of 300 rooms. While its features reflect a pronounced Manchu and Mongol influence, the palace was obviously an attempt to emulate its Ming counterpart, the Forbidden City, Beijing. The palace divides into three
sections. The dominating feature Open 8am–3pm. & of the central section is the Built between 1643 and 1645, Bei Ta is the only one of four Chongzheng Hall, from where temples and pagodas situated Abahai oversaw political affairs and received envoys from vassal on the city boundaries in a decent state of repair. The lands and border territories. surviving features of In the courtyard behind the original pagoda the hall, the Qingning are the Great Hall and Palace is where the Falun Temple. emperor and his concubines resided. The E 18 September Phoenix Tower, the tallest structure in the imperial Museum 46 Wanghua Nanjie. Tel grounds can be found (024) 8832 0918. Open 9am– here too. 4pm Tue–Sun. & ^ In the western section, the Wensu Pavilion The Jiuyiba Lishi formerly housed one Bowuguan comof seven copies of the memorates the Wei Tuo Buddha, North occupation of 36,078-volume Siku Pagoda Quanshu (Complete Shenyang on Library of the Four September 18, 1931, Treasures), an encyclopedic by Japanese troops. Its exhibits collection of Chinese literature make up the most comprehencompiled in the Qing era, of sive chronicle of the Japanese which only four sets survive. The aggression in Manchuria. Like other museums with a similar Dazheng Hall is the central theme, some of the displays can feature of the eastern section, be rather gruesome. fronted by pillars emblazoned
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information 440 miles (700 km) NE of Beijing. * 5,000,000. . n Bldg 4, 290 Shi Fu Lu (024) 2295 8888. Transport k Shenyang Airport. £ South
Train Station or North Train Station. @ South Bus Station, Express Bus Station, CAAC (buses to airport).
North Tomb’s ornate west wall and gateway North Tomb 12 Taishan Lu, Beiling Gongyuan, North Shenyang. Open summer: 7am–5pm; winter: 8am–4pm. & ^ interiors.
The huge Beiling Park houses the tomb of Abahai (1592–1643), the son of Nurhachi, and his wife, Empress Borjijit. One of the largest and best-preserved of China’s imperial mausoleums, the North Tomb (Bei Ling) was built in 1643, the year of the emperor’s death. The layout of the complex is typical of imperial Chinese tombs (see pp110–11), and is accessed through Zhenghong Gate to the south. Of the pavilions lying on either side of the gate, the easternmost pavilion was used as a dressing
The impressive East Tomb (Dong Ling), the final resting place of Nurhachi and his wife Yehenala, was completed in 1651. room for visiting emperors, Arranged attractively on the while the westernmost slopes of Mount Tianzhu near was the site for sacrificing the Hun River, the threeanimals. A spirit way storied tomb has a flight (shendao), lined with of 108 steps leading to animal statues, leads its main gate. The to the Hall of Eminent number 108 is sacred Favor (Ling’en Dian). to the Chinese; in Right behind the hall the Daoist celestial lie the tree-covered order, 108 represents imperial burial the 36 stars of mounds, formally Mythical animal, heaven and the 72 stars called Zhao Ling (the North Tomb of hell. The number is Luminous Tomb), and an also sacred to Buddhists, exquisite dragon screen. reflected in the 108 beads on Buddhist rosaries and the East Tomb 3 miles (5 km) E of Shenyang. 210 number of luohan in certain Dong Ling Lu. Open summer: 7:30am– Buddhist sects. Photography is 5:30pm; winter: 8am–4:30pm. & allowed outside only.
Beiling Park North Tomb
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(Confuciusornis dui hou), a winged, avian dinosaur with feathered features, that was unearthed in 1998 in western Liaoning, a region rich in dinosaur remains. Other exhibits include another dinosaur with bird-like features known as Sinosauropteryx, a 120-million-year-old and 29-ft (9-m) fossilized tree, and fossilized dinosaur eggs from the Jurassic period. Jutting out of Jinzhou Bay, 21 miles (34 km) south of town, is Bijia The impressive Bijia Shan, connected to the mainland by Shan (Penholder Mount). It is connected an isthmus at low tide to the mainland by an 2 Jinzhou isthmus that emerges from the sea at low tide. The island’s peaks – which resemble a Chinese 125 miles (200 km) SW of Shenyang. pen rest – support several ~£@ Buddhist temples and offer An industrial city on the eastern magnificent views over the bay. Visitors who wish to walk to Bijia shores of the Liaoning Gulf, Shan along the isthmus should Jinzhou is visited mainly for its check the timings of low-tide storehouse of Jurassic period before planning a trip. An fossils, of which more than 300 alternative way of reaching the are housed in the private island is by taking a fishing boat. Wenya Museum (Bowuguan). Set up by the amateur collector E Wenya Museum Du Wenya, this unremarkable 33–13 Erduan, Heping Lu. Tel (0416) three-story building stands on Heping Lu although there is talk 234 3999. Open 8am–6pm daily. & of relocating it in the near } Bijia Shan future. The star attraction is a Tel (0416) 358 1735. Open 8:30am–5pm daily. & specimen of dushi kongzi niao
The Yalu Jiang Duan Qiao, that once connected China with North Korea For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
3
Dandong
172 miles (277 km) SE of Shenyang. * 7,500,000. ~ £ @ n 20 Shiwei Lu, (0415) 213 7493.
Presided over by a statue of Mao Zedong in the heart of town, Dandong is located along the Yalu Jiang (Yalu River) in the eastern part of Liaoning province. It would have been little more than an obscure outpost, ignored by travelers, if it were not for its proximity to North Korea. Today, the largest border town in China, Dandong has an unmistakable Korean stamp, from the shaokao (barbecue) dishes, to the signs in hangul (the Korean script), and the Korean shops and souvenirs. Within reach of Dandong are several other interesting sights, and the town acts as a useful launch pad to Changbai Shan (see pp454–5) and the stunning mountain lake of Tian Chi. Dandong’s trademark sight is the Yalu Jiang Duan Qiao (Yalu River Bridge) that reaches out into the river alongside the bridge connecting China with North Korea – this railway line runs all the way from Beijing to Pyongyang. The steel bridge ends halfway along its full span, the remainder having been dismantled by the Koreans. The surviving half in Chinese territory bears the scars of
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Dramatic karst hills rising up from the river, Bingyu Valley 4 Bingyu Valley restored vestige of the Great combat, having been strafed in Wall, is located 20 km (12 miles) 1950 by US fighter planes northeast of Dandong, near during the Korean War. The ruin 149 miles (240 km) NE of Dalian. £ Jiuliancheng town, overlooking serves as a monument to the from Dalian to Zhuanghe, then bus. the Yalu River and the North Kang Mei Yuan Chao @ from Dalian to Zhuanghe, then Korean border. This section of Zhanzheng (War to Resist US bus to Bingyu Fengjingqu. the wall, dating from Aggression & Aid Korea), as the reign of the the Chinese refer to A picturesque river valley, Ming Wanli emperor, is its their part in the Bingyu Gou lies sprawled across easternmost point. In 2003, conflict. Boats and 42 sq miles (110 sq km). It offers the Great Wall Museum speedboats offer cruises along long riverside walks and hikes in the Yalu River, for visitors who fabulous trekking terrain opened at the site, displaying want to get within two or overlooked by jagged peaks, relics associated with the three feet of the hermit defensive barrier. Since karst rock formations, temples, kingdom. It is and cliffs hollowed out by the North Korean permitted to take border is not always numerous caves. Opportunities photographs of for climbing, fishing, and rafting clearly marked, North Korea, though are also available. The valley can hiking around this A traffic policewoman on duty area is inadvisable, there are few be reached via the town of photogenic Zhuanghe, northeast of Dalian. in case visitors features – just factories, civilians, inadvertently cross over into Accommodations are available and Stalinist housing. Those who North Korea. for those who wish to stay wish to learn more about China’s overnight. It is best to avoid P Yalu Jiang Duan Qiao contribution to the Korean War the holiday periods as well as & Tel (0415) 212 2145. Open daily. can visit the Museum to weekends during summer, when the valley receives } Fenghuang Shan Commemorate Aiding Korea crowds of visitors. Fengchen City. Open daily. & & Resisting America, with a plethora of exhibits on the war. Even though the captions are almost exclusively in Chinese, the nationalistic refrain is clearly evident. Located 31 miles (50 km) northwest of town, the 2,760-ft (840-m) Fenghuang Shan (Phoenix Emperor Mountain) is associated with Daoist mythology. It supports a crop of temples and caves, besides offering some excellent hiking trails. A good time to visit is during the temple fair (miaohui), held every April. The Hushan Great Wall, a little-visited and Steps leading to a Daoist temple on Fenghuang Shan
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Dalian
Sparkling with self-assurance and confidence, Dalian is Northeast China’s most dynamic and attractive city. It is famed throughout China for its top-notch hotels, progressive economy, modern and European-style architecture, football team, and cleanliness. The city resembles Shanghai in its port setting, cosmopolitanism, Special Economic Zone status, and history of foreign control, but has the added attraction of a coastline dotted with scenic beaches and lawns. Located at the southernmost point of Northeast China near the tip of the Liaodong peninsula, Dalian enjoys sea breezes and a warmer winter than other parts of the region.
Colonial architecture and modern highrises around Zhongshan Square
Exploring Dalian The city of Dalian has few temples or monuments of note, but most visitors come for its beaches, seafood, shopping, and striking modernity. Serving as a dazzling hub from which major streets radiate, Zhongshan Square (Zhongshan Guangchang) is laid out with lawns and encircled by a ring of colonial buildings dating from the Russian and Japanese eras. At night, locals gather here to dance and listen to music, and to watch the occasional cultural performances that are held. The most interesting buildings along the square’s periphery are the Dalian Hotel (Dalian Binguan) at No. 4 to the south, and the Bank of China (Zhongguo Yinhang) on the northern rim at No. 9. Dalian’s main shopping area is Tianjin Jie, a pedestrianized stretch of shops northwest of Zhongshan Square. Beneath Shengli Square to the west is a huge underground shopping
center, while the Friendship Store lies farther east on Renmin Lu. Dotting Dalian are several tree-lined streets and spacious parks. Southwest of Zhongshan Square is Labor Park (Laodong Gongyuan), with its hallmark giant football at the center. It is known for hosting the Locust Flower Festival each spring. Farther southwest is Dalian’s other main square, Renmin Square. Formerly known as Stalin Square, it was originally overlooked by a large statue
of a Russian soldier, that now stands in nearby Lushun. The square is pleasantly laid out with grass and is lit at night. Dalian is famous for its beaches and these can easily be reached by bus or taxi. In the northeast of the Dalian peninsula, just off Binhai Lu near the Eighteen Bends, is the scenic Donghai Park. Covering 1,112 acres (450 ha), this seaside park has a 3,937-ft (1,200-m) long coastline. It was founded to celebrate Dalian’s centennial anniversary, and has striking statues of oversized sea-creatures, including a giant octopus and a shark. There are fine sea views, and the water is clean though rather cold until mid-July for swimming. The pebble beach is popular with visitors, who often bring tents and beach towels and spend the day here. Farther south along the coastal Binhai Lu, the Bangchuidao Scenic Area (Bangchuidao Jingqu) has the best beaches on China’s east coast, once reserved for party officials and now open to all. Binhai Lu makes for a marvelous walk with fantastic views over the cliffs across the Yellow Sea. The next stop is the more touristy Tiger Beach Scenic Area (Laohutan Jingqu), which sports an amusement park and an aquarium. Several miles farther west, the Fujiazhuang Scenic Area (Fujiazhuang Jingqu) is also rather boisterous and crowded, and farther still is the Xinghai Beach Scenic Area, housing the immensely popular Sun Asia Ocean World. This aquarium has a 381-ft (116-m) long underwater tunnel and several tanks filled with sea-life that attract children in droves.
Statue of a rowing team in midstroke, Xinghai Square
Ice sculptures at Harbin Ice and Snow Festival, Heilongjiang province
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benefiting from the perennial ice-free waters. Known as Port Arthur, it was the chief naval base for the Chinese Beiyang fleet from the mid-19th Y Donghai Park century, and was seized by Binhai Lu. Tel (0411) 8273 1569. the Japanese during the Open 8:20am–5:30pm daily. Sino-Japanese War (1894– 95). Returned to China } Bangchuidao Scenic soon after, the port fell to Area the Russians in 1897, Tel (0411) 8289 3888. who developed the Open 8am–7pm daily. base for their Pacific & fleet, but Japan Tower at the top of Sun Asia Ocean World wrested Lushun back Baiyu Hill in Lushun Tel (0411) 8467 9517. in 1905, forfeiting it Open hours vary. & only at the end of World War II. Among the surviving Russian Environs: Lying 22 miles architecture is the Railway (35 km) southwest of Dalian, Station, built in 1898 as the Lushun enjoys an excellent strategic position, its harbor terminus of the South Just off the coast, Xinghai Square was built to commemorate the return of Hong Kong to China in 1997.
Practical Information 180 miles (300 km) S of Shenyang. * 3,400,000. _ Locust Flower Festival (Spring). n 9 Jie Fang Road, (0411) 836 91165. Transport k Dalian Airport. £ @ Dalian Bus Station, CAAC (buses to airport), Heishijiao Bus Station. g from Yantai & Weihai.
Manchuria Railway (see pp440– 41). The Japanese-Russian Prison, which incarcerated Russian, Japanese, and Chinese prisoners, also has a gory torture room and gallows. Tours take in the compound and photographs on display. North of the bay and near the station, Baiyu Hill is topped with rows of cannons and a tower, plus great views. Visitors must check with the Public Security Bureau just off Zhongshan Square for permission to visit, since Lushun is a closed military zone. P Japanese-Russian Prison
139 Xiangyong Jie. Tel (0411) 8661 0675/6. Open 9am–3:30pm daily. 8
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Living quarters at the Puppet Emperor’s Palace, Changchun 6
Changchun
185 miles (300 km) NE of Shenyang. * 2,200,000. k Xiangtan Airport. £ @ g to Dalian, Shanghai & Tianjin. n 1323 Xi’an Da Rd, (0431) 8892 9311.
The sprawling modern capital of Jilin province is cheerfully known as “Eternal Spring” despite its brutal winter. The city was badly damaged at the end of World War II, which ended its ignominious phase as the capital of the Japanese-controlled state of Manchukuo, when it was known as Hsin-Ching. Industrialized after the war, Changchun today has emerged as an attractive, green city in China’s northeastern “rustbelt,” famed for its car production. Changchun’s only major sight of interest is the Puppet Emperor’s Palace, the residence of the “Last Emperor,” Pu Yi, whom the Japanese installed as the Emperor of Manchukuo. Located in the city’s northeast, the palace, with its period
Official buildings at the Puppet Emperor’s Palace, Changchun
furnishings and old photographs, serves as an apt epitaph to the tragic folly of Pu Yi’s life. The palace lacks the majesty of the Forbidden City, and instead is suggestive of the sanctuary of an exiled monarch. Renovations have, however, restored much of its former grandeur. It is now a fascinating museum of artifacts relating to the 13 powerless years that Pu Yi spent here. Scenes from Bertolucci’s 1987 epic film The Last Emperor were filmed here. Other period buildings include the Manchukuo State Council Building on Xinmin Dajie in the southeast of town, a further relic of the Japanese occupation. Open to
the public, the building is a government structure that features a brass Otis elevator that once ferried Pu Yi aloft. In the northeast corner of People’s Square on the main street of Renmin Dajie stands Banruo Temple, an active Buddhist temple dating to 1921. Inside the main hall is a statue of Sakyamuni with attendant arhat (see pp36–7). Changchun is also famous for its cinematic output and the city’s film studio can be visited, although it is only really of interest to specialist film buffs. P Puppet Emperor’s Palace
5 Guangfu Lu. Open 8:30am–5:30pm. & ∑ wmhg.com.cn
The Last Emperor Aisin Gioro or Pu Yi ascended the Qing throne at the age of three in 1908 after the death of his uncle, the Guangxu emperor. His brief reign as the Xuantong emperor was brought to an end on February 12, 1912, when he abdicated the throne in the Forbidden City to make way for the new Republican government. The powerless Pu Yi continued to live in the palace until 1924, before furtively escaping to live in the Japanese concession in Tianjin. He was later installed as the Japanese puppet emperor of Manchukuo, residing in his palace in Changchun. At the end of World War II, he was arrested and handed over to the Chinese Communists, who imprisoned him in 1950. In 1959, Mao granted him amnesty. Pu Yi never returned to the Forbidden City, and he died of cancer, childless and anonymous, in 1967, after working for seven Pu Yi (1905–1967), China’s years as a gardener at the Beijing “Last Emperor” Botanical Gardens.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
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Jilin
which includes sporting events and photography contests, from January to the end of February. 60 miles (100 km) E of Changchun. Pleasant walks along paths, * 2,000,000. ~ £ @ g to and past shrines and pavilions n Shi Ji Shanghai Dalian, Tianjin. are possible in hilly Beishan Park Cheng Building, Song Jiang Dong Rd, in the west of town. The park has (0432) 6244 5707. an array of Daoist and Buddhist temples that are worth Known as Kirin during the investigating, including the Japanese occupation between 1931 and 1945, the city of Jilin is Guandi Temple (Guandi Miao), the Three King Temple (Sanwang a little-visited industrial Miao), and the Jade Emperor’s settlement on either side of the Temple (Yuhuang Ge), with a Songhua or Sungari River. Like gaggle of fortune tellers in front. many other cities in the Locals are proud of the city’s northeast, Jilin has a short attractive Catholic Church, history and was a small village until the 17th century when it built by the French in the early was fortified. It was heavily 19th century. It rises up west of industrialized during the Jilin’s main bridge on Songjiang Japanese occupation, when Lu, the road along the north the huge hydro-electric bank of the river. Vandalized power station at Fengman during the Cultural on the Songhua River was Revolution, the church constructed. The station became the city’s emblem generates one of Jilin’s after it reopened in major winter attractions 1980. East of the – shugua or needle-like church is the white frost which Confucius Temple covers the branches of (Wen Miao), dedicated the riverside pine and to the great sage. willow trees. As warm Candidates of the water from the power imperial civil service station flows into the examinations came Songhua, its temperCatholic Church, Jilin here to pray for his ature rises and it help and blessings. remains unfrozen. Evaporating The sedate temple provides an water droplets from the river escape from Jilin’s modern face. condense along the branches In the south of the city, the of trees and freeze, producing a Meteorite Shower Museum sparkling display of ice-rimmed houses a scattering of rock branches, resembling pieces of fragments that rained down coral. As with Harbin, winter is around Jilin in 1976, including a the main tourist season, and vast specimen weighing nearly Jilin also stages an ice festival, two tons (1,770 kg).
Statues at the scholars’ altar, Confucius Temple, Jilin Y Beishan Park
Open daily. 5 Catholic Church
3 Songjiang Lu. Open daily during service hours only. Confucius Temple
2 Nanchang Lu. Open daily.
Environs: Not far from Jilin, Zhuque Shan (Rosefinch Mountain) has earned a reputation for its ski slopes. Formerly known for its temples and hiking opportunities, it now offers two slopes for sledding and skiing. Its restaurant, which stands on a heated platform, provides panoramic views over the hills. About 15 miles (24 km) southeast of Jilin is the picturesque Songhua Lake (Songhua Hu), covering a vast and panoramic area surrounded by peaks. It provides an excellent getaway from town, offering hiking and boating in a huge forested park setting. Every winter, an expensive, state-of-theart ski resort operates on the slopes around the lake, attracting crowds of cross-country fans. At the lake’s southern end is the Fengman Dam, the site of the city’s hydro-electric power station. Due to the river’s annual flooding, four sluice gates are opened to keep Jilin from being submerged. } Zhuque Shan
Taxi from Jilin train station. Open daily. & Ski gear available. } Songhua Lake @ No. 338 from Jilin to Fengman.
The delicate frost that covers Jilin’s trees each year
then taxi to ski resorts.
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Changbai Shan
Listed as a Unesco Biosphere Reserve, Changbai Shan (EverWhite Mountains) is the largest of China’s nature reserves at 760 sq miles (1,965 sq km) with a rich abundance of fauna and flora. Thick belts of deciduous and coniferous forest harbor important medicinal plants like ginseng, and endangered animals like the Siberian (or Manchurian) Tiger, while above the treeline lies the only alpine tundra in East Asia. The highlight of any visit to Changbai Shan is Tian Chi (Heaven’s Lake), a glittering volcanic crater that straddles the mountainous border with North Korea. This is China at its wildest and most spectacular, with opportunities for hiking amid dramatic scenery, although the area is only open to exploration during summer and early autumn.
White birch Despite heavy deforestation, there are still healthy numbers of over 80 species of tree such as these white birch.
Tianweng Feng
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. Changbai Waterfall Tian Chi releases huge quantities of water (the mountains are capped with snow between October and June) creating the dramatic 225-ft (68-m) high waterfall near the volcanic crater.
Jinping Feng
Ginseng The root of the ginseng (Panax ginseng) plant has been valued in China for thousands of years for its healing and rejuvenating properties. Native to Korea and Northeast China, ginseng is a slowgrowing herbaceous perennial that is widely farmed (although wild specimens are most highly prized). Ginseng from Northeast China is especially esteemed and The root and leaves of the was once protected under imperial edict to ginseng plant prevent overharvesting. Its efficacy does not develop until the plant is around six years of age. Premium quality wild ginseng is very expensive costing between US$150–450 per gram. However, buyer beware; the market is awash with fake produce. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information 16 miles (25 km) S of Baihe; 350 miles (560 km) E of Jilin. n (0432) 6243 5683. Open Jun–Sep (snowbound the rest of the year). Last bus back to Baihe 4pm. &8 from Jilin (CITS). 0 Transport @ or £ to Baihe, then bus or taxi.
. Tian Chi – Heaven’s Lake The volcano last erupted in 1702, wiping out most of the surrounding forest. The deep waters of Tian Chi (China’s deepest lake) are said to harbor an aquatic beast similar to the Loch Ness Monster.
NORTH KOREA
Hot springs near Tian Chi Many springs reach temperatures of over 176° F (80° C) – hot enough for local hawkers to boil eggs and for visitors to take therapeutic dips in steamy pools.
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Climbing Changbai Shan Due to heavy snowfall, Changbai Shan is only open to trekking from June to October. Although a tempting 8 miles (13 km) in circumference, Tian Chi cannot be circumnavigated as it overlaps with North Korea. Prepare for unpredictable weather conditions as it can get very cold (and carry plenty of food and water). The more sedentary can hire a 4-wheel-drive taxi all the way to the main peak. Visitors can overnight in one of the hotels on Changbai Shan or in tents on the lake shore. Tours are easy to find and usually include two nights in a hotel.
Trekking opportunities Even at peak periods, it is easy to enjoy and explore the wilderness and beauty of Changbai Shan at leisure – however, do not stray into North Korea.
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Harbin
Situated in the far north of China close to the vast subSiberian plains, Harbin is the pleasant capital of Heilongjiang province. It was a simple fishing hamlet on the Songhua River until the Russians linked it to both Vladivostok and Dalian (see pp450–51) by rail at the close of the 19th century. The railway and the Bolshevik Revolution brought large numbers of Russians to the city, prompting a change in Harbin’s fortunes. Once called “Little Moscow” for its charming pockets of Russian architecture, Harbin still vaguely resembles an outpost of Imperial Russia. While the city’s summer is quite pleasant, its winter temperatures dip below –22°F (–30°C), perfect weather for its spectacular Ice Festival.
People walking and relaxing along Harbin’s riverbank
ice sculptures in winter, the Exploring Harbin streets here are alive with the Harbin’s most pleasurable bustle of pavement cafés aspects lie within the Daoli during summer. district (Daoli Qu), the area East of Zhongyang Dajie is stretching from the main railthe Church of St. Sofia, the way station to the Songhua River. The district’s downtown city’s most spectacular Russian area is lined with several edifice. Dating from 1907, it is upmarket boutiques, fur also the largest Russian shops, and department Orthodox church in stores. Visitors can walk the Far East. This north along the pedestriByzantinestyle redanized shopping street brick cathedral is of Zhongyang Dajie to topped with a green, onion-shaped explore the picturesque dome. It houses the cobbled alleys and Architecture and Arts architectural legacies Centre, a rewarding of the grand Russian A motorcycle taxi photographic era. Numerous shops in Harbin exhibition of the and buildings on Russian influence on Harbin. Zhongyang Dajie have been To the north, Zhaolin Park is restored, and their histories recorded in English on exterior the setting for many of the ice plaques. The lanes leading off sculptures of the annual Ice Zhongyang Dajie are ideal for a Festival (Bingdeng Jie), officially leisurely stroll, while along its held every year from January 5 length are several good bars to February 25. In winter, the and restaurants. Lined with park is transformed into a For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
glistening wonderland of brightly lit ice sculptures, ranging from simple statues to buildings, monuments, and temples. Close by, Harbin’s riverfront is dotted with a number of interesting sights. The Flood Control Monument at the northern end of Zhongyang Dajie was erected in 1958 to commemorate the river’s floodprone history. Stretching 26 miles (42 km) along the riverbank is Stalin Park, China’s last public memorial to Joseph Stalin. It is an engaging riverside promenade and meeting place for Harbin locals. In summer, boat trips can be taken along the river and across to Sun Island Park on the northern bank. The park has a variety of recreational attractions and can also be reached by cable car. In winter, the river freezes over completely, and visitors can hire go-carts or simply walk across. An annual snow sculpture exhibition is held on Sun Island, which is also home to the Siberian Tiger Park, where the endangered Manchurian tiger is currently being bred. Visitors may want to give this rather dismal place a miss, as the fenced-off area seems much too small for the big cats, who are constantly being teased with live chickens by noisy busloads of tourists. Southeast of the main railway station, the Provincial Museum has a rather uninspiring collection of exhibits with no
The splendid Byzantine-style Church of St. Sofia
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5 Church of St Sofia Diduan Jie. Open daily. &
Practical information 340 miles (550 km) N of Shenyang. * 4,750,000. n 14 Songhuajiang Jie, (0451) 5360 1717. _ Ice Festival (Jan 5–Feb 25), Harbin Music Festival (Jul).
3 Jingbei Lu. Open daily. & Jile Si
9 Dong Dazhi Jie. Open daily.
Environs: 12 miles (20 km) southwest of Harbin in the small village of Pingfang, the Japanese Germ Warfare Experimental Base is the city’s most notorious sight. Formerly operated by the Japanese army’s 731 Division,
P Japanese Germ Warfare Experimental Base Pingfang. Tel (0451) 8710 8731. Open 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sun.
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the gruesome remains of the experimental base are now open to the public. It housed a top-secret research unit that subjected thousands of Chinese, Korean, British, Mongolian, and Russian prisoners to some truly horrendous experiments. The Japanese destroyed the base at the end of World War II, and it was only after the dogged efforts of a Japanese journalist in the 1980s that the existence of the base was exposed. The museum is largely limited to photographs and all captions are in Chinese, but the site survives as a somber monument to the atrocities of World War II.
The elegant, seven-tiered Qiji Futu Pagoda in the northeast of town
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English captions. Farther east along Dong Dazhi Jie are some of Harbin’s Buddhist temples, all of which were damaged during the Cultural Revolution. The quiet Jile Si is home to an active Buddhist community. The complex follows a typical Buddhist temple layout with Drum and Bell Towers, Hall of Heavenly Kings, and a main hall, adorned with statues of Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha) and various bodhisattvas. Adjacent is the seven-tiered Qiji Futu Pagoda, standing within the largest temple complex in the province. Nearby on Wenmiao Jie, the Confucian Temple is a sizeable shrine also worth visiting. Harbin’s zoo has been moved 25 miles (41 km) away from the city center, renamed Harbin Northern Forest Zoo, and is now one of the largest zoos in China.
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Y Sun Island Park
Tiger at the Siberian Tiger Park, Harbin
Harbin Northern Forest Zoo
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can also dip well below q Zhalong Nature freezing point through to Reserve April, with fewer transport and accommodations options. July and August are 17 miles (27 km) SE of Qiqiha’er. Tel the wettest and busiest (0452) 244 1346. £ to Qiqiha’er, then months, and booking bus. @ Open daily. & ahead at lakeside hotels is recommended. An China’s largest wetland reserve, alternative is to stay in the 518,700-acre (210,000-ha) Mudanjiang city to the north, Zhalong Nature Reserve lies in from where buses depart for the Songhua-Nen River plain, Jingpo Hu. Activities include along a major bird migratory boating, fishing, and hiking route from the Arctic to and boat tours around the Southeast Asia. Zhalong’s lake can also be arranged. reedbeds, ponds, and Not far from the waterfall is marshland provide an ideal a Korean minority village. home to almost 300 species of Several volcanic features birds, including swans, storks, dot the surrounding area, ducks, geese, egret, white ibis, including lava caves and the and other waterfowl. Established in 1979, the reserve Diving off the edge of Diaoshuilou Dixia Senlin (Underground is one of the few breeding Forest), 31 miles (50 km) Pubu (Diaoshuilou Waterfall), Jingpo Hu grounds in the Far East for the northwest of Jingpo Hu. Not 0 Jingpo Hu marsh grassbird (Megalurus actually subterranean, the forest pryeri). Six of the world’s 15 has grown spectacularly in the varieties of crane are also found fertile soil of ten dormant 62 miles (100 km) SW of Mudanjiang. here. The most famous are the volcanic craters. The delicate Tel (0453) 627 0180. £ from endangered red-crowned crane ecosystem here supports a Mudanjiang to Dongjing, then (Grus japonensis), a tall bird with varied animal and plant minibus to Jingpo Hu in summer only; black and white plumage and a population including in winter via taxi. @ from Harbin & red crest that is the symbol of black bears, leopards, Mudanjiang. n 34 Jingfu Jie, longevity in China, and the purple pines, firs, Mudanjiang. Open daily. & white-naped crane (Grus vipio), and dragon both of which are bred at a spruces. Taxis An attractive, 31-mile research center here. Other rare and buses leave (50-km) long winding bird species that visit Zhalong regularly from strip of water, Jingpo Jingpo Hu’s main include the swan goose (Anser Hu was carved from the A visitor enjoying a ride on a gate to Dixia cygnoides), and the Siberian Mudan River by jet ski at Jingpo Hu crane (Grus leucogeranus). Birds Senlin. It is also volcanic eruptions arrive in spring, and begin worth looking thousands of years ago. breeding in summer. The best out for tour buses to the lake The surrounding forested slopes time to visit the reserve is from that include trips to Dixia Senlin. are clearly reflected in the lake’s April to June. It is advisable to . waters, hence its name, “Mirror } Dixia Senlin take binoculars, as Zhalong’s Lake.” In summer, busloads of 50 km NW of Jingpo Hu. Tel (0453) population of waterfowl can visitors – largely Chinese and 627 0180. Open daily. & be elusive. Russian – gather at Jingpo Shanzhuang, a village on the northern shore equiped with abundant resort facilities. Although tourism has spoiled some of the lake’s natural beauty, much of its huge body of water and the luxuriant wooded hills are still tranquil and worth exploring. The 131-ft (40-m) wide waterfall Diaoshuilou Pubu lies at the northern end of the lake. Its cascade is most impressive in the wetter summer months, while in winter, it freezes into a spectacular curtain of ice. Visiting the lake is possible in winter, although temperatures The marshlands at Zhalong Nature Reserve, important to migrating birds For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
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Fossils of Northeast China China has long been an excellent hunting ground for fossil collectors. Over 130 million years ago much of northern China was volcanic, richly forested and teeming with life. As the volcanoes erupted they covered the land with dust, hot ash, and mud, and for many years fossils of all kinds have been uncovered, from simple, shellfish-like ammonites through to complete skeletons of large dinosaurs. More recently, the area of northeast China has captured the imagination because of the discovery of at least five feathered species of dinosaurs. The feathers were not only used for flight, but also for insulation and perhaps decoration. Such has been the excitement – and indeed money – generated by these discoveries that fossils have become big business in the area. Locals are discovering and illegally selling what they find, and even going so far as to create fake fossils that have fooled the scientists.
Dragonfly fossils like this reveal even the delicate tracery of the insect’s wings. This amazing detail was retained thanks to a thin dusting of fine volcanic ash that was followed by a thick layer of mud, preventing oxidation and rapid decay. Paleontology has become a booming business in China and placed the country at the heart of important debates about evolution. Therefore the government has been keen to sponsor further research and museums.
This Dicynodont was a plant-eating reptile the size of a pig, with two large front teeth – its name means “two dog teeth.” One of the most common dinosaur fossils, it has been found all over the world.
Dinosaur eggs are classified by size and shell type because it is difficult to tell what species they were laid by. Some are very similar to birds’ eggs, further strengthening the theory that birds descended from a specific group of dinosaurs.
Microraptor gui was a four-winged creature – its legs were feathered too – that glided from tree to tree. The outline of the feathers can clearly be seen, and some think that it might represent an intermediate stage between dinosaurs and birds.
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of Wu Da Lian Chi, which has several hotels. Since the guided tours available often make costly and needless diversions, visitors may find it more efficient to travel independently by regular taxi or motorcycle cab. } Bai Long Dong
Closed for renovations; call ahead to check if open: (0456) 722 1540. &
One of the five volcanic lakes at Wu Da Lian Chi w Wu Da Lian Chi & the River Border 232 miles (375 km) N of Harbin. £ from Harbin or Qiqiha’er to Beian, then bus to Wu Da Lian Chi. @ from Harbin.
generated most of the magma that spilled out into the surrounding area. However, like all the volcanoes at Wu Da Lian Chi, it is now dormant. Visitors can also bathe in the area’s pungent hot water springs and taste the local mineral water. Apparently bursting with dissolved minerals and curative powers, the waters are sought by a devoted band of the ill and infirm, as well as elderly Chinese, who flock to Wu Da Lian Chi to avail of treatment in the numerous sanatoriums that have opened here. The waters are also the star attraction of the annual Water Drinking Festival of the local Daur people, held every May. Underground caverns dot the area, including the freezing Crystal Palace and Bai Long Dong (White Dragon Cave), subterranean ice caves decorated with ice sculptures and crowded with visitors in summer. The nearest settlement is the village
Environs: The Heilong Jiang (Black Dragon River, known as the Amur in Russia), that lends its name to this province, demarcates a long section of the border between China and Siberia. Several of Northeast China’s ethnic tribes traditionally settled in this region, making their living from the river, although many have now been assimilated into the larger Han Chinese population. It is possible to see Siberian forests and small settlements along the border. Since most parts of this region require a permit, it is advisable to check with Harbin’s Public Security Bureau. Connected to Harbin by train, the large border town of Heihe sees a healthy cross-border trade with the Russian port town of Blagoveshchensk, which can be visited with a tourist visa for Russia, arranged in Beijing. Hourlong cruises along the Heilong Jiang are also available. At the northern tip of Heilongjiang is Mohe, whose main attraction is the spectacular aurora borealis (northern lights) in winter. The town records almost 22 hours of daylight in June.
A large and popular nature reserve situated in a volcanic field, Wu Da Lian Chi lies in a region in western Heilongjiang inhabited by the ancient Daur minority. Its name, meaning “Five Big Connected Lakes,” is derived from the five bodies of water created by a succession of volcanic eruptions, the most recent occurring in the 18th century. The resulting lava, which blocked the Bei River and created the lakes, has turned Wu Da Lian Chi into a volcanic spa, with geothermal springs and sulphurous waters that have a reputation throughout China for their curative powers. The 14 volcanoes at Wu Da Lian Chi add a measure of drama and character to the region’s flat terrain. To the west of Number 3 Lake are the two principal volcanic vents, Lao Hei Shan (Old Black Hill) and Huoshao Shan (Fire Burn Hill). The sites of the most recent eruptions, which took place between 1719–21, both volcanoes are popular with visitors and can be climbed for panoramic views of the area. Surrounded by fields of lava, Laohei Shan The frozen Heilong Jiang, used for traveling through the heavily forested terrain For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
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River Border Minorities Although the majority of the population in Heilongjiang is Han Chinese, the River Border is home to several minorities, including the Oroqen, Hezhen, and Ewenki. Traditionally these nomadic peoples eke out a living in this inhospitable environment. They rely on animal furs for clothes and local plants for medicines, and, when on the move, even construct tents out of birch bark. The Oroqen are hunters, descended from Khitan nomads. They speak an Altaic language and are noted for their shaman and animistic customs and rituals. Numbering a few thousand, the Hezhen are one of China’s least populous tribes but their skill at fishing is legendary. The Ewenki supplement their fishing and hunting mainly through breeding reindeer. For all these peoples, however, this way of life is slowly dying out: hunting has been banned in some of the mountain reserves, forcing the nomads to settle down as farmers, while others have left for the cities in search of an easier life.
The Ewenki are dependant on reindeer which are well adapted to survive in the cold climate. However this nomadic and traditional way of life is slowly disappearing.
The Hezhen are legendary for their fish-skin shirts, trousers and even shoes. The dried skins of carp, pike and salmon are stitched together to make waterproof items that are highly prized.
Ewenki tents traditionally have a frame made out of birch poles that are covered with birch bark in summer and with animal skins in winter. Practical feng shui means that the entrance is usually south-facing to avoid the wind from the north.
The Oroqen are expert hunters who even make clothes from the animals that they kill for food. Subsidies are now enticing some of them to settle down as farmers.
The Oroqen’s traditional hunting grounds have suffered from encroachment by industry as well as general deforestation and finally by China’s newfound enthusiasm for wildlife preserves that have closed off large areas of the wilderness from hunting.
INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS Introducing Inner Mongolia 464–471 & the Silk Roads Inner Mongolia & Ningxia
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Gansu & Qinghai
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Xinjiang
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Inner Mongolia & The Silk Roads This massive region, forming a giant northwesterly arc linking Siberia with Central Asia, takes up a third of China’s area. Geographically it ranges from forest to sandy desert to grassland, whilst ethnically these lands are home to several Chinese minorities, notably Mongolians, Uighur, and Hui, as well as, among others, Russians, Kazakhs, and Kyrgyz. Three provinces – Inner Mongolia, Ningxia, and Xinjiang – are officially designated autonomous regions. The main attractions in Xinjiang and Gansu are the dusty oasis towns of the Silk Road, replete with Buddhist cave paintings, evocative ruins, and chaotic markets, whilst elsewhere the appeal is the beauty of China’s last great wildernesses. A monk prays at the Gao Miao, Zhongwei
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The Yellow River at Shapotou, an oasis at the edge of the encroaching desert
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Nomads beside Qinghai Hu, the largest lake in China For additional map symbols see back flap
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A PORTRAIT OF INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS This vast region, comprising Inner Mongolia, Ningxia, Gansu, Qinghai, and Xinjiang, covers a significant proportion of the total area of China. Although sparsely populated, the area’s appeal lies in its magnificent landscape, the distinctive lifestyles of its indigenous peoples, and its Silk Road past. This fabled route’s legacies are visible everywhere, from historic sights to the Islamic religion. Bordering the Mongolian Republic and Russia to the north, the Central Asian states to the west, and the Indian subcontinent to the south, this region is now indissolubly attached to China, as a result of vigorously pursued Chinese hegemony. Today, although the local population is largely Han, they have little in common with the area’s indigenous peoples. Only the eastern portion of Gansu seems naturally to form part of China proper. Gansu to the west of Lanzhou and the other provinces are at best indifferent to and at worst in uneasy thrall to the government in Beijing, which has often ruled with callous disregard for local sentiments. For the Chinese, there still lingers a historic suspicion of the barbarians living beyond the frontier marked by the course of the Great Wall.
Dramatic sand dunes near Crescent Moon Lake, Dunhuang
However, historic cultural identities have been retained, and this, together with the region’s distinctive geography, means that Inner Mongolia and the northwest have a different character to most of China. Because of this, these three areas – Ningxia, Xinjiang, and Inner Mongolia – are not officially provinces but so-called Autonomous Regions, where the Hui, Uighur, and Mongolian peoples theoretically have a measure of self-government. In practice, any autonomy is superficial, though local languages are spoken and religions practised reasonably freely. Although the communities are united by their ethnic minority status, the region is by no means an organic entity. For example, the Mongolians and Uighur are only connected by the fact of their inclusion within the political borders of China. Mongolia’s grasslands are inhabited
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the Yellow River. Inner Mongolia, composed of grassland, steppe, desert, and mountain, has short, pleasant summers but cold, windswept winters. Historically, this area’s most significant period was during the great days of the Silk Road, when caravans carrying silk, spices, and tea crossed the inhospitable terrain, stopping at oasis towns along the way. Centuries later, this region became the domain of Genghis Khan, the Mongol warlord (see p477). These desert gardens are still markets where local products, from raisins to saddles and daggers, are traded just as they have been for centuries. The most significant Silk Road monuments are the Mogao Caves in Dunhuang, perhaps the greatest repository Incense burner in the inner courtyard of the Gao Miao, a multi-denominational temple in Zhongwei of Buddhist murals, sculpture, and manuscripts. Other Buddhist sites such as by a traditionally nomadic people who the Labrang monastery in Gansu and Ta’er obtain their livelihood through the Si in Qinghai owe their origins to the grazing of sheep and horses. influence of Tibetan Buddhism. Xinjiang, the homeland of the Besides visiting caravanserais, Turkic-speaking Uighur, on the grottoes, and monasteries, it is other hand, is a stony desert worth exploring the grasslands, relieved by oases dependent mountains, and lakes such as Qinghai upon an ancient but sophisHu, as some of China’s last great ticated system of underground wilderness areas can be seen here. irrigation channels. The one While it is true that some of China’s feature that links the region is prosperity has begun to trickle west, Statue inside the Fuxi the extreme nature of its it will take some time before the Miao, Tianshui climate and terrain. Whilst much nomads and traders give up their of Xinjiang is flat and featureless, it is ingrained habits and culture. Thus, despite fringed by some of the world’s highest its size, there are only a few large cities, in mountains, including the Pamirs to the particular Lanzhou, provincial capital of southwest and Tian Shan to the northwest. Gansu, and Ürümqi, capital of Xinjiang. At its center sits the Taklamakan Desert, an immense tract of sand dunes characterized by its name, which means “Go in not come out.” Summers here are unbearably hot, and its winters are dry and very cold. Qinghai is a mountain plateau whilst arid Ningxia and Gansu are rendered habitable only by the presence of Tibetan nuns gathering outside their nunnery in Xiahe, Qinghai
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Mongols of the Steppe In the 13th century Genghis Khan (see p477) united the steppe-land tribes into a confederation that briefly ruled the civilized world. Today, the Mongolian nation is divided into two parts: the Mongolian Republic to the north, and the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region in China. Traditionally, Mongols are nomadic herders who travel and work on horseback, mostly on the vast, grassrich steppe. Their diet consists largely of meat and many dairy products, including fermented mare’s milk, the intoxicating airaq. In Inner Mongolia, most of the Mongolian minority now lead a sedentary life of farming. They are striving, however, to keep their traditions alive, by staging the annual Nadaam Festival, for example.
Motorbike travel has replaced the horse for many families and it is not unusual to see an entire family astride a bike which is just as likely to be seen parked outside a ger as a horse.
Equestrian Skill The key to the Yuan Empire’s success was the Mongolians’ horse-riding prowess. Horsemanship is still valued, and many learn to ride before they can walk. The sturdy Mongolian pony remains an integral feature of life in the countryside for nomadic herders.
The name Mongol, first used during the Tang dynasty, referred to several tribes. This illumination from 1350 shows that the essential lifestyle of Mongolians changed little up to the 20th century.
Gers (yurts) are the traditional felt homes of the nomads. They are found in the rural grasslands. Permanent encampments of gers are found closer to Hohhot.
Tied down skillfully to withstand fierce winds, the outer and inner skins are made of canvas, with an insulating layer of felt between.
The frame comes apart for easy transportation. The wooden poles (orange like the sun) are called uni, between ten and fifteen of which support each of the khanas, or sections of wall.
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The principal traditional garment, the deel, is a long gown tied with a brilliant sash at the waist. It is worn by both women and men and comes in different weights – lined with sheepskin for winter, quilted for spring, and made of light cloth for summer.
Colorful banners are carried by riders at the competitive Nadaam Festival.
Mongolian wrestling, a favorite event at the Nadaam Festival along with equestrianism and archery, has no weight classes and no time limits. The winner is the one who throws or trips his opponent in such a way that some part of his body touches the ground.
Buddhism is the main religion among Mongols. Tibetan influence became very strong at the Mongolian court of Kublai Khan and by the 16th century Lamaist Buddhist images found a place in every ger.
Desertification Leather saddles have replaced the less comfortable traditional wooden version.
Hardy Mongolian pony
Inside is warm and comfortable. A stove sits in the center of the ger, while the back is reserved for the family altar and is the place for elders and honored guests.
The incursion of dry soil into fertile lands, desertification, is caused by overworking the soil and inappropriate irrigation, a major problem in China. In Inner Mongolia, it is severely affecting the traditional way of life, as it destroys grazing pastures. Poor farmers swarm to the area to harvest facai or “get rich” grasses removing the topsoil’s anchoring rootstructure. Mongols have been encouraged to abandon the pastoral life and settle as farmers and so increase the pressures on the land. Once-rich grassland reduced to infertile sand
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The Silk Road In reality several ancient trading routes between China and eastern Europe, the Silk Road – the term was coined in the 19th century by Baron von Richthofen – first became busy in the Han dynasty, exposing the Chinese capital Chang’an (Xi’an) and ultimately all of China to the influences and styles of an alien world. Technologically advanced, with a large workforce, and a monopoly on some highly valued products, China was well placed to benefit from a massive expansion in trade.
Camel caravan crossing the daunting Silk Road dunes
Silk Road Commerce The merchants who used the Silk Road dealt not only in spices, silk, porcelain and jade but also in gold and silver, wool, Arab horses, and many other commodities. However, it was silk (see pp214–15), a mysterious Chinese invention, that particularly captivated the west.
This piece of silk dating from 1500 BC was discovered in what was Bactria, today’s Afghanistan, indicating that a network of trading routes had been established long before the heyday of the Silk Road under the Tang.
Rome was a major importer of silk and knew China as “Seres” – the land of silk. This gold Roman coin was found along the Silk Road in Xinjiang.
Emperor Wu & General Zhang Qian In the second century BC the Han emperor Wudi saw that his cavalry’s horses – better suited to pulling carts – were struggling against the fast horses of his enemy, the Xiongnu. Therefore he sent Zhang Qian, his general, to Sogdiana and Ferghana to obtain some of their legendary horses. Although the mission failed, the information Zhang Qian brought back about the riches he saw led to the development of trade along the Silk Road, and the Ferghana horses did eventually make it to China. Statue of one of Ferghana’s “heavenly horses”
Gold and silver were not highly prized in China until after contact with the West. These precious metals became fashionable in the Tang dynasty, as shown by this gold teacup with Middle Eastern styling. This Chinese incense burner shows that silverworking techniques must have made it to China along with the vogue for precious metals.
INTRODUCING INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS
The Silk Road was a series of routes linking China in the east with the Roman Empire to the west. The principal routes looped south and north of the Taklamakan Desert, to join with other branches from Siberia and India, as they headed through Central Asia and Persia as far as the Mediterranean. The route flourished in periods of calm and declined in times of war.
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Foreign Ideas and Religions Contact with foreigners meant traders brought back religions such as Buddhism, which eventually became the national religion, as well as philosophies and artistic styles. Most artistic influences came from Gandhara, a center of Buddhism. The area’s unique artistic styles developed after its conquest by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC. This Gandharan-inspired Chinese bust recalls the graceful sculptures of Classical Greece.
Detail from the Catalan Map Made in the 14th century for Charles V of France, this map gives an indication of the extent of geographical knowledge as it stood during the later Middle Ages. The inclusion of China was helped by Marco Polo’s account. The period of unrest after the demise of the Tang led to a decline in trade. The Silk Road prospered again during the Yuan dynasty when the region came under the control of the Mongol Empire. Silk was no longer a Chinese monopoly, but their porcelain was clearly the finest pottery in the world.
This cross is evidence of Nestorianism in China around the 8th century BC. Other religions to make it to China include Islam, Judaism, and Manicheanism, a Babylonian religion based on the opposing principles of Light and Darkness.
The final decline came with the large ships of the 15th century that could travel with less cost, harassment, and danger. Dwindling use saw the gradual abandonment of the caravanserais that had been the merchants’ refuges.
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INNER MONGOLIA & NINGXIA INNER MONGOLIA
This area comprises two autonomous regions, Inner Mongolia, stretching across northern China in an enormous arc, and NINGXIA Ningxia, China’s smallest province after the island of Hainan. The region’s main attractions are its great landscapes and the unique cultures of its minority people. Much of Inner Mongolia consists of rolling grasslands dotted with the traditional tents (gers or yurts) of the nomadic Mongols. The capital of Hohhot is the most convenient place to join a tour and experience their traditional way of life, while the more adventurous can head north to the towns of Xilinhot and Haila’er, where vast tracts of untouched wilderness lie waiting to be explored. The historic Mongolian homeland was made up of the independent Republic of Mongolia, Inner Mongolia (now in China), and parts of Siberia. Bordering Inner Mongolia to the south, Ningxia was first established in 1928. In the 1950s, it became part of Gansu, and in 1958 was designated an autonomous region for the indigenous Hui (see p479). Living in pockets throughout China, the Muslim Hui descended from Arab Silk Road traders, but are now largely assimilated with the Han culture. Despite some industrialization, Ningxia is a largely undeveloped region with a smattering of interesting sights. At the foot of the scenic Helan mountains near the capital of Yinchuan stand the crumbling tombs of the Western Xia dynasty. The Xumi Shan Caves near Guyuan are another key sight with a wealth of Buddhist carvings.
Sights at a Glance
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Hohhot
255 miles (410 km) W of Beijing. * 2,580,000. k 10 miles (16 km) E of town. £ @ n Hohhot Travel Agency, (0471) 460 7395.
A small Buddhist settlement since the Ming era, Hohhot became the capital of Inner Mongolia in 1952. Although it has expanded considerably, the city has kept some of its charm, visible in traditional mud-brick houses in the south, as well as a few temples and an excellent museum. However, the surrounding grasslands and the traditional way of life they support are probably the main interest. The greenery in summer makes it the best time to visit the city. Hohhot is largely inhabited by Han Chinese, with a small Mongol and Hui population.
Dinosaur skeletons on display at the Inner Mongolia Museum
archery and polo equipment, and a ger (portable tent used by Central Asian nomads). The museum also has an excellent collection of fossils discovered in Inner and Outer Mongolia, including the complete skeleton of a woolly rhinoceros unearthed E Inner from a coal mine in Mongolia Museum Local fruit stall being 2 Xinhua St. Tel (0471) 460 Manzhouli (see carried on a bicycle 8265. Open 9am–4:30pm p478), as well as Wed–Mon (winter: 9:30am–4pm). several impressive dinosaur skeletons. The museum’s upper Situated in the center of the floor is dedicated to the life of new part of town, this museum is definitely worth visiting for an Genghis Khan, who, in the 13th century, united the disparate insight into the history and Mongol tribes and established traditions of the Mongolian arguably the largest land people. The museum’s ground empire in human history. Some floor exhibits the paraphernalia of the maps and objects on used by the nomadic Mongols, display have English captions. including saddles, costumes,
Main prayer hall at the Tibetan-Buddhist Xilitu Zhao For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
U Great Mosque
28 Tongdao Nan Jie. Tel (0471) 639 1363. Open daily.
In the old southwestern part of the city, the attractive Great Mosque (Qingzhen Da Si) is best known for its fusion of both Chinese and Arab architectural influences. The main building, dating from the Qing dynasty, is constructed in black brick, while its minaret has a Chinese-style pagoda roof. It is an active place of worship, which permits nonMuslim visitors, especially if they are accompanied by a local Hui worshiper. The mosque’s prayer area, however, is reserved for Muslims. The surrounding Muslim area is well worth exploring, with its narrow alleys lined with restaurants selling delicious noodles and kabobs. Xilitu Zhao
Tongdao Nan Jie. Tel (0471) 631 0332. Open 8am–6:30pm daily. &
A short walk south of the Great Mosque in the old city, the Xilitu Zhao (Xilitu Temple) started off as a small Ming-dynasty temple and is one of Hohhot’s oldest shrines. This Tibetan-Buddhist temple became the spiritual home of the 11th Grand Living Buddha in 1735. Since then, it has served as the official residence of successive reincarnations of the Grand Living Buddha, who presides over Buddhist affairs in the city. This version of the temple was built in the 19th century, after its predecessor burned down. Xilitu Zhao was also badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution,
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but has since been heavily restored. It is essentially Chinese in style, with a few Tibetan elements. Its dagoba (Tibetanstyle stupa), for example, features Sanskrit writing, Chinese dragons, and tantric Tibetan murals that vividly depict the horrors of hell in gory detail. The temple is still active and the monks here are friendly and speak English. They are usually happy to show visitors around. Da Zhao
Tongdao Nan Jie. Tel (0471) 630 3154. Open daily. &
The largest Buddhist temple in the city, the Da Zhao is located in a narrow alley just west of Tongdao Nan Jie. Similar in style and layout to the Xilitu Zhao, it was originally built in 1579, and renovated during the 1990s. The shrine was dedicated to the Qing emperor Kangxi, in the late 17th century, and murals in the main hall commemorate his visit. An astounding 10-ft (3-m) silver Sakyamuni Buddha is among the temple’s many treasures. Da Zhao also boasts an extensive collection of musical instruments and dragon sculptures, and is the venue for Buddhist festivals held through the year.
Wusutu Zhao, Hohhot’s Mongolian temple Wu Ta Si
Tel (0471) 597 2640. Open 8:30am– 5:30pm daily (winter: to 5pm). &
into its walls, each differing slightly from the others. Inside is a rare Mongolian cosmological map carved onto a large stone, which illustrates a zodiac and the positions of numerous stars.
Just south of Qingcheng Park, amidst the remains of the old city, the Indianstyle Wu Ta Si (Five Towers Temple) is one of Hohhot’s most Wusutu Zhao attractive buildings. 7 miles (12 km) NW It was constructed of Hohhot. Open in 1727, as part of Guardian, Wusutu Zhao 8am–6pm daily. & another temple that has now Founded in 1606, the disappeared. The distinctive predominantly Mongolianfive pagodas surmount a solidstyled Wusutu Zhao includes looking base that contains a some Chinese and Tibetan smallish temple with 1,563 features. Inside the monastery images of the Buddha carved there are Ming-dynasty murals on display as well as some intricate woodcarvings with imperial dragon motifs. The name “wusutu” means “near to water” in Mongolian. The nearby grasslands and Daqing mountains make pleasant daytrips from town. Bai Ta
The open grasslands, traditional home to nomadic Mongols
The Grasslands Mongolia’s history is linked to its grasslands, and for many people, the classic image of the Mongolian landscape is unbroken grassy steppe spreading to the horizon. The steppe provides fodder for the horses and sheep that support the Mongolians’ nomadic lifestyle. The three grassland areas accessible from Hohhot are Xilamuren, 50 miles (80 km) north; Huitengxile, 75 miles (120 km) west; and Gegentela, 93 miles (150 km) north. The easiest way to explore them is by taking a tour, which includes a stay in a village of traditional tents (gers), where visitors attend a banquet and watch Mongolian sports. Though obviously stage-managed, they do show something of Mongolian culture. One can also travel independently by hiring a horse, or negotiating an overnight stay in a ger belonging to a local.
9 miles (15km) east of Hohhot Open daily.
Bai Ta (White Pagoda) is a sevenstoried, octagonal structure. It was first built in the 10th century to house Buddhist scriptures dating from the Liao dynasty (see p64). Over 164 ft (50 m) high, and made of wood and brick, it has some striking carvings inspired by Chinese mythology and nature, including coiled dragons, flowers, and birds. A winding staircase leads to the top, from where there are panoramic views. Bai Ta is best reached by taking a taxi from town.
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Wudang Zhao
Tel (0472) 871 1511/29. Open daily. & } Resonant Sand Gorge Tel (0477) 396 3366. Open usually 7:30am–8pm daily. &
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Dongsheng
62 miles (100 km) S of Baotou. * 160,000. @
Reasonably attractive, the small town of Dongsheng serves mainly as a base for visiting Genghis Khan’s Mausoleum (Ejin Horo Qi), a rather Buddhist mural outside a hall at Wudang Zhao monastery, Baotou uncomfortable bus trip 30 miles Qing era. Just 6 miles (10 km) (50 km) to the south. It is almost 2 Baotou south of Baotou lies a section of certain that Genghis Khan is not the Yellow River that inscribes buried here, as his real tomb is 105 miles (170 km) W of Hohhot. * a huge northerly loop enclosing thought to lie in the Hentei 2,460,000. ~ £ from Beijing. @ n an area called the Ordos, which Mountains near Ulan Batur in 33 Gang Tie Da Jie, (0472) 536 9029. the Republic of Mongolia. was not conquered by the However, scholars believe that Chinese until the Qing era. The this site contains a few irrigation projects made The largest city in Inner relics of the Great Khan, possible by the Yellow Mongolia, Baotou was once an and it has grown into River have made this arid and undeveloped region, a place of pilgrimage inhabited by Mongolian herders area a fertile oasis. for many Mongolians. There is little to see of sheep and horses. Today, it is The mausoleum besides the river, but an industrial community, made consists of three its sluggish progress up largely of Han Chinese, with conjoined halls, each through the flat, a visible Mongol presence. The echoing the shape of cultivated landscape town is divided into three Plaque in four a ger (Mongolian is impressive. principal areas – Donghe, the scripts, Wudang Zhao tent) decorated with South of Baotou is oldest part lies to the east, while murals. The middle the great Gobi, a the western area consists of hall has a large statue of desert that stretches across Qingshan, the main shopping Genghis with a map of his the northern reaches of Inner district, and Kundulun, the empire. Some of the halls are Mongolia and the Republic industrial hub. While Qingshan bedecked with hangings, and of Mongolia. The Resonant resembles any modern Chinese contain gers, altars, and other town, with its tower blocks and Sand Gorge, 37 miles (60 km) religious paraphernalia. Special array of shops, Kundulun is a south of Baotou, is filled with depressing leftover from the sand dunes, some of which soar ceremonies are held here four times a year to honor Genghis Communist era, with large, 295 ft (90 m) high. Visitors slip Khan, attracting pilgrims from bleak squares, and no sign of and slide on the dunes, and its all over Mongolia. greenery. Donghe, a pleasant name refers to the sound made quarter of streets lined with by the falling sand. Paragliding P Genghis Khan’s Mausoleum mud-brick houses and their and camel rides are also Open 7:30am–7pm daily (winter: cluttered courtyards, lends available, and a chairlift shuttles 8am–5pm). & color to this fairly drab city. visitors from the main road. Environs: The region’s bestpreserved Lamaist monastery, Wudang Zhao lies 43 miles (70 km) northeast of Baotou in a tranquil valley. Built in 1749 in the Tibetan flat-roofed style, it quickly became an important place of pilgrimage, and was home to several hundred monks belonging to the Yellow Hat Sect. It houses a collection of Buddhist murals from the
Genghis Khan’s Mausoleum, a place of pilgrimage for Mongolians
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
INNER MONGOLIA & NINGXIA
477
Genghis Khan Born in 1162 to the head of the Kiyat-Borjigen tribe, Genghis Khan (or Chinggis Khan) was given the name Temujin. A born fighter, as a teenager he killed his half-brother and in 1206 he was proclaimed Genghis Khan (meaning universal king). He unified Mongolia’s warring fiefdoms into a huge army of up to 200,000 warriors that invaded China and much of Asia, and eventually created one of the greatest land empires in history. The secret of his success was the skilful use of cavalry and the toughness of the Mongolians who could survive on very little. Their dietary needs were met either from their horses or from the countryside. Genghis died in 1227, before the capture of Peking, after falling from his horse. In fact it was after his death that the Mongol armies made most of their conquests, but it was thanks to his organization and determination in the first place. Genghis Khan was a supreme organizer and tactician. He also created the first Mongolian code of law, the “Yasak,” and promoted the growth of trade between China and Europe. Mongol Empire
The empire of Genghis Khan’s successors at its greatest extent shown on a modern map
The Mongolian Warrior This Persian picture, painted 100 years after Genghis Khan’s death, shows him fighting the Tartars. The key to Mongolian success was their horsemen. They were disciplined, mobile, and heavily armed, and their ferocity and skill were unmatched at the time.
Genghis Khan’s Mausoleum is perhaps reminiscent of a Mongolian ger or tent. After his death his body was carried by thousands of his followers and taken back to Mongolia. The site of his burial is unknown.
Mongolian bow’s unique shape gave it a better range than standard bows.
Mongolian horses were small but sturdy.
Lance for close-quarters fighting
The cavalry were supreme horsemen and able to fight on the move.
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The vast expanse of the Hulunbuir grasslands around Haila’er 4
Xilinhot
310 miles (500 km) NE of Hohhot. ~ from Beijing. £ to Erlianhot, then bus. @ from Hohhot, check with PSB if a permit: is required. n Xilinhot Travel Agency, (0479) 824 9165.
Situated right in the heart of the province’s grasslands, Xilinhot’s main draw is a visit to the Mongolian wilderness, inhabited by nomadic sheep herders in their muchang jia (pastureland homes). The tours available here are quieter and cheaper than the ones around Hohhot. Independent trips can also be organized through private tour agents. 5
Haila’er
219 miles (350 km) NE of Xilinhot. ~ from Beijing & Hohhot. £ from Harbin, Qiqihar & Beijing. @ n Ali He Lu, (0470) 822 4017.
Close to the Russian border, Haila’er is Inner Mongolia’s northernmost town. This small settlement on the banks of the Amur River is a good base for visiting the grasslands in summer. The town’s main sight is the network of tunnels used by the Japanese army during World War II. Built by Chinese prisoners, they were used as defensive bunkers along Haila’er’s northwestern ridge, which marked the western boundary of Japan’s advance into China. Beyond Haila’er lie the Hulunbuir
Grasslands, an expanse of rolling plains threaded by rivers and inhabited by herds of sheep and horses. Tours are arranged by the tourist office. 6
Manzhouli
largest lakes, where migratory swans, geese, and cranes come to nest. The tourist office organizes grassland tours, where visitors can stay in gers (tents). 7
Xanadu
116 miles (186 km) W of Haila’er. £ from Haila’er & Harbin. @ from Haila’er. n Lantian Travel, (0470) 622 3003.
280 miles (450 km) NE of Hohhot. 8 arranged by Xilinhot Travel Agency, (0479) 824 9165.
For long inhabited only by nomads, the border town of Manzhouli became a permanent settlement in 1901, as a stop on the Trans-Manchurian and Trans-Siberian railways. Steam locomotives can still be seen in the shunting yards at Zalainuo’er. Russian influences are still apparent in the architecture, mainly the wooden cottages with painted shutters and stucco buildings in preRevolutionary style. The main attraction, however, is Dalai Hu or Hulun Nur to the south. Surrounded by marshy grasslands, it is one of China’s
Close to inner Mongolia’s border near Duolun lie the remains of Yuanshangdu or Xanadu, the site of the legendary palace of Kublai Khan, grandson of Genghis Khan (see p477). One of China’s greatest emperors, Kublai Khan and his magnificent summer palace were exalted in Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s poem, which begins with the lines “In Xanadu did Kubla Khan a stately pleasuredome decree.” The palace was abandoned by the Khan during his lifetime, and eventually crumbled. There is little left to see, but those who wish to visit can contact Xilinhot’s tourist office.
Manzhouli, the last stop in China on the Trans-Manchurian railway line
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
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Yinchuan
326 miles (525 km) SW of Hohhot. * 1,200,000. ~ 15 miles (25 km) SE of Yinchuan. £ @ n (0951) 672 7898.
Situated in the north of Ningxia, in the lee of the Helan mountains, Yinchuan is well protected from the harsh desert climate, and makes a good base from which to explore the surrounding sights. Watered by the Yellow River, this lush and leafy city was the capital of the little-known Western Xia Kingdom from around the 11th The stately Gulou (Drum Tower) in Yinchuan’s old town century onward, which has left few traces of its short existence Just south of the Drum Tower, According to records, the 177-ft except for a set of dagobas, and Gulou Jie is the heart of the (54-m) tower, also known as the a handful of imperial tombs city’s busy shopping district and Northern Pagoda (Bei Ta), was located 12 miles (20 km) is lined with department stores. first built in the 5th century AD. It outside the city (see p480). This West of Gulou Jie stands was rebuilt in the 18th century in mysterious dynasty materialized the 13-story, octagonal Xi Ta the original style, after an earthin the early 11th century, in the quake destroyed it in 1739. It is (West Pagoda), built within the area north of Han China. Followan unusually angular structure, grounds of the Chetian Temple. ing a period of expansion from with ledges and niches at every Originally built in the 11th AD 982 to the 1030s, the level. It is worth making the century, the temple houses the Western Xia empire included climb to the top of its nine Ningxia Provincial Museum all of modern-day Ningxia, as stories, as there are terrific views which has a large collection of well as parts of Western Xia artifacts. across the city to the Yellow River Shaanxi, Gansu, and Helan mountains. The museum also Qinghai, and displays splendid P Gulou & Yuhuang Ge Inner Mongolia. items from the Silk Jiefang Jie. Open 8:30am–5pm Although the Road era, and has daily. & Chinese consida section on the ered them indigenous Hui E Ningxia Provincial Museum Sign advertising a fortune teller people. Followers barbarians, & Xi Ta outside Haibao Ta they achieved of Islam, the Hui 121 Liming Jie. Tel (0951) 508 5093. a considerable originally descended Open 9am–4:50pm Tue–Sun. level of sophistication, partly from Arab and Persian traders U Nanguan Mosque through the assimilation of from the Middle East, who Yuhuangge Nan Jie. Tel (0951) 410 Tang culture, until their kingcame to China during the 6714. Open 8am–6:30pm daily. & dom was sacked by the Tang and Yuan eras. invading Mongols in 1227. Southeast of the museum, Today, Yinchuan is a pleasant close to the bus station, is the and lively city, with a handful South Gate (Nan Men) which of interesting things to see. It resembles a miniature version consists of two parts, the new of Beijing’s Tian’an Men. A short town (Xin Cheng) to the west walk southwest of Nan Men, near the railway station, and the Nanguan Mosque is a modern old town (Lao Cheng), 4 miles building constructed in 1981 to (7 km) east, where the city’s replace the original 1915 shrine. main bus station and most It is an active place of worship of the sights are located. that caters to Yinchuan’s Hui Jiefang Jie, the old town’s population. Unlike most main thoroughfare, has two mosques in China, it has hardly well-restored, traditional any Chinese features, and is Chinese towers. One is the large built in a distinct MiddleEastern style. In the northern Gulou (Drum Tower), while reaches of the old town, the farther east lies the Yuhuang ancient Haibao Ta stands in the The 1,500-year-old Haibao Ta in Ge (Yuhuang Pavilion), which dates back to the Ming dynasty. grounds of an active monastery. northern Yinchuan
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ecumenically, which is reflected in the welter of well over 200 chapels and rooms. Rebuilt several times, the temple, in its present form, is an interesting amalgamation of architectural styles.
The striking Xi Xia Wang Ling (Western Xia Tombs) in Helan Shan 9
Helan Shan
12 miles (20 km) W of Yinchuan. @ or taxi. n Yinchuan Tourist Office, 116 Jiefang Xijie, (0951) 688 9276.
q
Zhongwei
106 miles (170 km) SW of Yinchuan. £ @ n Zhongwei Travel Service, 33 Gu Lou Xi Jie, (0995) 701 4880.
Looming over Yinchuan, about The pleasant town of Zhongwei 12 miles (20 km) to the west, lies between the Tengger Desert the 11,667-ft (3,556-m) high to the north and the Yellow mountain range, Helan Shan, River to the south. This small has some interesting settlement can easily be historical places to visit. explored on foot or At the foot of its by cycle-rickshaw. eastern slopes lie the At its center lies a traditional Drum Xi Xia Wang Ling, the royal tombs of Tower (Gulou) the Western Xia dating to the Ming dynasty (1038–1227). era. Zhongwei’s main Spread over a large sight is the 15th-century Painting on upper area, these crumbling Gao Miao, a rather pavilion, Gao Miao but still impressive bizarre temple which mounds commemserves Buddhists, orate the 12 Xia kings. The Daoists, Confucianists, and Christians alike. It was Gunzhong Pass, farther west, originally built for Buddhists, makes for pleasant hikes in the but somehow developed surrounding hills if the weather is fine. Located 5 miles (8 km) north of the pass are the 39-ft (12-m) twin pagodas, Baisikou Shuang Ta, decorated with Buddha statues. Nearby, at Suyu Kou, are hundreds of rock paintings, of uncertain age, depicting animals and human figures. These sights can all be visited in a day by hiring a minibus or car from Yinchuan. P Xi Xia Wang Ling 22 miles (35 km) W of Yinchuan. Tel (0951) 566 8960. Open 7:30am– 6:30pm daily. &
0
108 Dagobas
See p481.
Carved entrance of the multi-denominational Gao Miao, Zhongwei
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
Environs: About 9 miles (15 km) west of Zhongwei, the spectacular resort of Shapotou lies on the banks of the Yellow River, between riverbank vegetation on one side, and the striking sand dunes of the desert, on the other. Accessed by minibus from Zhongwei, the Shapotou Desert Research Center was founded in 1956 to reclaim fertile land from the desert. It has met with some success, as seen in the groves of trees and surrounding cultivation. It is now a resort, offering camel rides and trips down river on traditional rafts that are kept afloat with inflated sheep skins. Sand sleds are available to rent for those who wish to speed down the sand dune slopes. Gao Miao Gulou Bei Jie. Tel (0955) 701 2164. Open 7:20am–7pm daily. & P Shapotou
Open 8:30am–5pm daily. & w
Guyuan
286 miles (460 km) NW of Yinchuan. £ @ Xumi Shan Caves @ from Guyuan to Sanying, then taxi.
In the southern part of Ningxia, Guyuan serves as a base for visiting the Xumi Shan (Treasure Mountain) Caves, 31 miles (50 km) to the northwest. Set in dramatic sandstone hills, these Buddhist grottoes – numbering well over a hundred – are relics from the greatest era of the Silk Road, mostly the period covering the Northern Wei, Sui, and Tang dynasties. They contain more than 300 well-preserved Buddhist statues, the most famous being a colossal Maitreya (Future) Buddha, which stands 62 ft (19 m) high in Cave 5.
INNER MONGOLIA & NINGXIA
0
108 Dagobas
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Set in the desert near the town of Qingtongxia Zhen, the 108 Dagobas stand in twelve gleaming rows, spread out in a perfect triangular formation overlooking the Yellow River. A Buddhist monument, it is not clear exactly what their purpose is. Traditionally it has been thought that they were placed here during the Yuan Dynasty (1279–1368) but there may be some link to the Western Xia Empire. The number 108 is significant in Chinese numerology: there are 108 prayer beads in a Buddhist rosary – the same number of possible sins or worries.
Practical Information 50 miles (85 km) S of Yinchuan. Open daily. & Transport @ or £ from Yinchuan to Qingtongxia Zhen, then minibus or taxi.
Parasol protects from evil
The highest reality
The thirteen steps to enlightenment Main part represents the primeval mound
Sometimes hollow – used to store relics
Base represents the earth
. Hillside Location Impressive as the dagobas are, a good reason for visiting them is to get out in the quiet surrounding hills and do a bit of walking. Here you can find quiet temples at the top of some testing steps as well as some inspirational graffiti.
. The Dagobas Like the Indian stupa, the dagoba is a deeply symbolic icon. In early Buddhist art, Buddha was never shown in human form, instead a stupa became his symbol.
Viewing the Dagobas The best view is from a boat on the river – if the water level is high enough. The site is in excellent condition as a result of an overzealous restoration.
Western Xia Empire This mysterious dynasty materialized in the early 11th century when they established the Great Xia empire in the area north of what was Han China. Known as Tanguts – and probably from Tibet – they were briefly strong enough to build up a small empire and force tribute from the Song rulers in China. However, they were so thoroughly defeated by the Mongols Western Xia Coin in 1227 that little evidence of their existence remains except for some coins, books, and a famous stele covered in their feathery script (now in Xi’an).
INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS
483
GANSU & QINGHAI For centuries, Gansu and qinghai were regarded as frontier provinces that marked the outer limits of ancient China. A harsh and rugged region, Gansu connects the Chinese QINGHAI GANSU heartland with the vast desert regions to the northwest. The Hexi Corridor, running 750 miles (1,200 km) between two mountain ranges and dotted with oases, formed a link between China and the West. The Silk Road passed through here, as did the Great Wall, and later, the region’s only railway line. The Yellow River flows through Lanzhou, for centuries a major stop along the Silk Road. To the southwest lies the Tibetan town of Xiahe and its splendid Labrang Monastery. In the desert landscape northwest of Lanzhou are two great historical relics – the mighty Ming fortress of Jiayuguan and the cave art at Dunhuang. Lying between Gansu and Tibet, qinghai is a vast mountain plateau inhabited by a mere 5.5 million people. In every respect – culturally, historically, and geographically – it is part of the Tibetan Plateau, and was once the Tibetan province of Amdo, becoming a province of China only in 1928. Due to its remoteness, it has been used as the site for several prison camps for political dissidents. The province, however, abounds in natural beauty, with lush valleys around the capital of Xining, and miles of unspoilt wilderness around qinghai Hu, China’s largest lake. It also houses one of the country’s greatest Tibetan lamaseries, Ta’er Si, and provides access into Tibet from Golmud and Xining across some of the highest mountains in the world.
Sights at a Glance Mountains, Caves & Lakes 1 Maiji Shan pp484–5 2 Luomen 7 Bingling Si y Mengda Tian Chi u Qinghai Hu
Towns & Cities 3 Langmusi 5 Linxia 6 Lanzhou 8 Pingliang 9 Wuwei 0 Zhangye w Dunhuang e Tongren t Xining i Golmud
Monasteries & Temples 4 Xiahe r Ta’er Si pp504–5 Key Expressway National Highway Minor road Railroad Provincial border
Historic Sites q Jiayuguan Fort pp496–7
Great Wall Gongpoquan
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Jiuquan
Yumen Changweiliang
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Obo Delhi Tianjun
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Gaotai Shandan
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Tianzhu
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Longxi
Huashixia 214
Tuo Tuo He
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Huanxian
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Gonghe
109
Wudaoliang
200
Henan Tianshui
Jingchuan G30
Gadê Jiuzhi
Wudu
Yushu Nangqên
The steep stairway up the side of Maiji Shan, Gansu
For additional map symbols see back flap
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INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS
Maiji Shan
The site of one of China’s most important groups of Buddhist carvings, 465-ft (142-m) high Maiji Shan (Corn Rick Mountain) rises up spectacularly like Sumeru, the holy mountain of Buddhist myth. It is likely that the first sculptures were made around the end of the 4th century AD, and work continued up to the Qing dynasty. It provides an invaluable insight into the development of Chinese Buddhist artistic style. Almost 200 caves survive and are reached by a series of precipitous stairways. However, many of the best caves are closed and the gloomy interiors have to be viewed through grilles, so bring a flashlight.
Maiji Shan, said to resemble a corn rick or haystack from afar
. Colossal Buddha: Cave 98 This finely worked 53-ft (16-m) high statue of Amitabha Buddha is portrayed attended by two smaller statues of Avalokitesvara. The move away from classical Indianstyle Buddha sculptures is clearly evident here.
Working with Clay Because of the friable nature of the stone at Maiji Shan, many of the statues were not hewn out of the rock but modeled from clay stuck onto a wooden frame. Although they are not as well preserved as a result, they are more lively and with more detail than similar carvings in the Buddhist caves at, for example, Dunhuang. There are a few stone statues at Maiji Shan, but these have been carved from specially imported rock. Statue showing details of dress and hairstyle For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
KEY 1 Cave 133 is actually a tomb and home to many sculptures and engravings. It is considered one of the most exquisite holy caves. 2 Cave 135, Cave of Heaven 3 Cave 5, Calf Hall 4 Cave 3, Thousand Buddha Corridor 5 Cave 43 is the tomb of a Weidynasty empress.
GANSU & QINGHAI
Upper Seven Buddhas: Cave 4 The upper gallery of Buddhas includes this magnificent Songdynasty guardian. The cave complex itself is said to have been built by the local governor Li Yunxin, as early as the sixth century.
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information 22 miles (35 km) SE of Tianshui. Tel (0938) 223 1075. Open 8:30am–5:30pm. & for an additional large fee, the closed caves may be opened. 8 included in entry fee. ^ Transport @ from Beidao, Tianshui.
. Colossal Buddhas: Cave 13 These huge statues originally date from the Sui dynasty and were then repaired during the Ming dynasty. The myriad holes around the statues were probably used to support a protective framework.
Middle Seven Buddhas: Cave 9 These figures show a transitional phase between Indian-influenced sculpture and later Song-era figures, with pure Chinese characteristics. The statues are well-proportioned and slim in stature, with realistic drapes to their clothes.
. Gallery Views There are excellent views across the countryside from the network of walkways on the cliff face of Maiji Shan. If time allows, a hike around the Botanical Garden at the foot of the cliff is recommended.
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4
Xiahe
175 miles (280 km) SW of Lanzhou. @ _ Monlam (Great Prayer) Festival (Feb/Mar).
Rock carvings at Lashao Si, Luomen, depicting Sakyamuni Buddha 2
Luomen
3
Langmusi
155 miles (250 km) SE of Lanzhou. £ @ Water Curtain Thousand Buddha Caves: @ minibus from Luomen. &
236 miles (380 km) S of Lanzhou. @ from Lanzhou, Linxia or Xiahe to Hezuo, then direct bus to Langmusi.
The small town of Luomen serves as a base for visiting the Water Curtain Thousand Buddha Caves, situated in a spectacular gorge in the nearby mountains. Remote and accessible only by a rough road, which is actually a riverbed, the caves cannot be reached in bad weather as the road becomes unusable. The main attractions are a 98-ft (30-m) Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha), carved into a rock face, and Lashao Si, a temple built into a cave in the mountainside that has paintings and carvings dating from the Northern Wei dynasty (AD 386–534). Visitors can reach Luomen by bus or train from Tianshui, or from Lanzhou.
The remote mountain town of Langmusi is inhabited by a mix of Tibetan, Hui, and Han Chinese. While the hills offer miles of unspoilt country with trails for walking and riding, several active temples dot the town. Built in 1413, the Dacang Langmu Gansu Gompa (also known as Saichi Gompa) is the place of worship for several hundred monks, who study astrology and medicine, as well as Tibetan Buddhist theology. Traditional sky-burials, where the dead are left for birds of prey, also take place here. However, visitors are not permitted to view the last rites. Dacang Langmu Gansu Gompa Open daily. &
Breathtaking scenery around Langmusi For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
Perched at a height of 9,514 ft (2,900 m) in a mountain valley at the edge of the Tibetan plateau – that is now a part of Gansu – Xiahe is a significant Tibetan monastery town that attracts many devout Buddhist pilgrims to its Labrang Monastery every year. As a result the town’s population is a mix of Hui, Tibetan, and Han Chinese. Xiahe’s location offers many opportunities to explore the surrounding grasslands preferably on horseback, although cycling is an option for some. The town itself comprises a single street, running along the Daxia River. The commercial part of town is at the eastern end; the Labrang Monastery is in the center; while the Tibetan quarter is at the western end, offering glimpses of the Tibetan way of life. This town is worth a visit, especially for those not going to Tibet. Environs: Lying near Sangke village, 5 miles (10 km) west of Xiahe, is a lake surrounded by the Sangke grasslands, used by nomads for grazing their yaks. This huge area of grass and flowers can be accessed by road, although a fee is charged. Another 19 miles (30 km) north lie the even more vast and picturesque Ganjia Grasslands.
GANSU & QINGHAI
Labrang Monastery The most important center of the Yellow Hat Sect (Gelugpa) outside Tibet, the Labrang Monastery (Labuleng Si) attracts Tibetan pilgrims in their thousands. As a result of the Cultural Revolution the monastery was closed until 1980 and the number of monks reduced from 4,000 to about 1,500. Set in an auspicious location with the Dragon mountains to the north and the Daxia river to the south, the impressive monastery buildings are joined by a haphazard maze of alleyways that makes it a fascinating place to wander around.
Main prayer hall, Labrang Monastery
Exploring the Labrang Monastery This monastery was founded in 1709 during the forty-eighth year of the reign of the Qing Kangxi emperor by a local monk, E’Ang Zongzhe. He became the first generation Living Buddha, or Jiemuyang, who ranks third in the Tibetan hierarchy after the Dalai and Panchen Lamas. The monastery’s buildings came through the Cultural Revolution relatively unscathed, but in 1985 a fire seriously damaged the Grand Sutra Hall, which has subsequently been fully restored. Today the sprawling monastery complex dominates the town. It is actually impossible to see where the town stops and the monastery begins, they are so inextricably woven together. The monastery is built in a typical Tibetan style and consists of six grand halls for the study of scriptures or sutras,
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practcal Information Xiahe 175 miles (280 km) SW of Lanzhou. Tel (0941) 712 1095. Open 8am–noon, 2–6pm daily. Closed Nov–Feb. & 8 required for the main temple. _ Monlam Festival (see p50). Transport @ Linxia, Lanzhou or Tongren.
was, and still is, a way for the largely illiterate Tibetan eighteen Buddha temples, people to pray. Within the prayer wheels offices for the Living stands the Gongtang Pagoda, Buddha and many hundreds of residences south of the main road. At nearly for the monks. The 100-ft high (31-m) it comprises monastery is also an five levels topped with a gold academic institution and colored stupa containing holds an assortment of thousands of sutras and Buddha around 60,000 sutras and statues. You can climb up to specialized books. The the upper level and get an large halls are colleges oustanding view over the for the monks to monastery and town. Parts of study a variety of Labrang can only be degrees such as visited as a member of a mathematics, tour group, although astronomy, much of the monastery medicine and can be freely explored. other more There are a couple of esoteric subjects. tours in English each day. Visitors should be The Grand sensitive to the religious Sutra Hall is the nature of the site. most impressive of Xiahe is also famous for the buildings and its Monlam festival. Seen can hold up to 4,000 by thousands who have monks. It is an eerily Senior Yellow come from all over the impressive sight to Hat monk country, a huge thangka see the monks chanting of Buddha is unfurled and here each morning as sanctified on a screen to the they wait to go in and pray. south of the Daxia River. There Labrang also has a multitude follows several days of festivities of prayer wheels set in a including processions, musical long line that encircles the performances, and dances. monastery. Spinning these
View over the monastery with the gleaming Gongtang Pagoda to the left
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6
Bunches of noodles tied up and ready for sale, Linxia 5
Linxia
Lanzhou
A large industrial city and Gansu’s capital, Lanzhou has for long been the key transport link between the Chinese heartlands and the Northwest. It was an important stop on the Silk Road at the beginning of the Hexi Corridor, and is thus culturally closer to the Northwest than to Central China. The Yellow River flows through the center of the city, and for centuries Lanzhou was the principal point for crossing the river. In fact, until the 19th century, a bridge created by chaining together a flotilla of boats was used. The first iron bridge was built in 1907. Although most of the attractions lie well away from the center, Lanzhou offers good food, shopping, and an excellent museum.
62 miles (100 km) SW of Lanzhou. * 200,000. @ from Lanzhou, Xining, and Xiahe. (
Baita Shan Gongyuan
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Gansu Provincial Museum
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A pleasant place for ambling leisurely through streets bustling with locals, Linxia has a predominantly Muslim character, defined by the resident Hui minority. It was once a stopover for travelers passing between Lanzhou and the South Pass along the Silk Road. The town is still a good place to break the journey between Lanzhou and Xiahe. However, it offers very few attractions aside from its numerous mosques. The most prominent is the large and impressive Nanguan Mosque, just off the main square. Linxia’s appeal lies in its colorful markets and teahouses. The markets are lined with shops selling carved gourds, carpets, and saddlery. Most interesting are the local spectacles, made from ground crystal lenses, which many elderly men can be seen wearing. At the top end of Jiefang Nan Lu in the south of town is the great night market with numerous stalls stocked with aromatic curry-flavored breads (bing) and huge piles of noodles – fresh and dried. Linxia is popular with the Dongxiang minority, who speak their own Altaic language, and are supposedly descendants of 13th-century immigrants, who moved here after Kublai Khan invaded their homelands in Central Asia.
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Tel (0931) 836 6114. Open 7:30am– 5:30pm daily.
To the north of the river, near Zhongshan Bridge, is Baita Shan Gongyuan (White Pagoda Hill Park). It takes its name from the 13th-century pagoda, Bai Ta, which was built as part of
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
a temple at the hill’s summit. Steps have been carved into the steep slopes, while the walkways are dotted with teahouses, mosques, a plant nursery, and assorted pavilions. Chairlifts take visitors to the top from inside the park, or from town, on the other side of the river.
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Also worth seeing are the bronze chariots, with horses and attendants, from a tomb in the same area, as well as a fine This museum is set in an old collection of Yangshao pottery Soviet-style building west dating from the late of town. The ground floor Neolithic period. Other has a natural history relics include Silk Road section with a mammoth carvings, wooden spills, skeleton found in the statuary, and writing Yellow River in 1973. tablets. In the garden, Captioned in English, the a mock tomb recreates history section upstairs is burials in the Jiayuguan best known for the striking area in the late 2,000- year-old bronze Flying Horse statue at 3rd and early 4th Flying Horse, with its hoof Lanzhou’s train station centuries. Finally, resting on the back of a a large exhibit commemorates swallow, that was discovered in the Long March. an Eastern Han tomb in Wuwei. 3 Xijin Xi Lu. Tel (0931) 234 6308. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
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Practical Information 425 miles (680 km) W of Xi’an. * 3,000,000. n 2nd Floor, Tourism Building, Nongmin Xiang, (0931) 881 3222. Transport ~ Lanzhou Airport, 56 miles (90 km) N of city. £ Lanzhou Train Station. @ CAAC (buses
to airport), East Bus Station, Private Bus Depots, Main Bus Station, West Bus Station.
Wuquan Shan Gongyuan Tel (0931) 824 3247. Open 8am–6pm daily.
Also set in the south of town, Wuquan Shan Gongyuan (Five Springs Hill Park) resembles a traditional garden, with its weathered rocks, cascading streams, elaborate doorways, and myriad pavilions. The hill is said to be the place where the
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Y Lan Shan Gongyuan Tel (0931) 877 5011. Open 8:30am– Baiyi Si, with its temple and 5pm daily. accompanying stupa, was built during the Ming dynasty South of the city, Lan Shan (1368–1644) just a few Gongyuan (Lan Shan Park) hundred feet to the can be reached by east of busy chairlift from Wuquan Jinchang Lu, on Shan Gongyuan. The the north side of 20-minute ride to the Qingyang Lu. The top is a pleasant way Ornamental door knob, Rui small temple’s to escape the summer Yuan Si, Wuquan Shan unusual location, heat. It is a great spot dwarfed by the to watch the sunsets department stores of Lanzhou’s and the city lights at night. main shopping district, makes it There is an amusement park appear strikingly out of place, and several eateries. A trail leads and worth a visit for this alone. to Wuquan Shan Gongyuan.
Gateway designed as a quatrefoil moon in Wuquan Shan Gongyuan
Han general, Huo Qubin, quartered his cavalry as he mounted an expedition to the northwest. According to one legend, he cut at the rocks until the water he needed for his horses and men gushed forth. Of the several temples on the site, Chongqing Si dates back to 1372, and houses an iron bell cast in 1202. Despite its venerable origins, modern materials like concrete have been used several times in building the temple, and it is now an artistic blend of Soviet and traditional Chinese design. Another one of the oldest buildings in the park, the Ming-dynasty Jingang Palace houses an impressive, 16-ft (5-m) bronze Buddha, reputedly cast in 1370.
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depends on the water level in the reservoir. Autumn is usually the best time of year to visit Bingling Si, but it is best to check with other travelers before arranging a trip. It is a two-hour bus journey from Lanzhou to the reservoir and dam, followed by a three-hour boat trip to the caves, passing through some beautiful countryside with fishermen busy at work, and wheat and rice being cultivated on the riverbanks. The enormous seated Buddha carved into a cliff, Cave 172, Bingling Si 7
Bingling Si
56 miles (90 km) SW of Lanzhou. Bus to Liujia Xia Reservoir, then boat to caves. Tel (0930) 887 9056. Open in season, when the water level in reservoir is high. & 8 from Lanzhou.
The magnificent group of Buddhist caves at Bingling Si (Bright Spirit Temple) is one of the most intriguing sights in Gansu. Buddhism arrived in China along the Silk Road, and these caves are among the earliest significant Buddhist monuments in the country. Carved into sheer cliffs, the caves stretch for about a mile (1.6 km) along a 196-ft (60-m) high gorge. Isolated by the waters of the Liujiaxia Reservoir on the Yellow River, the splendid sculptures and paintings were saved from damage during the Cultural Revolution, and remain in surprisingly good condition. Known as the Thousand Buddha Caves, there are in fact, only 183 of them, of which 149 can be more appropriately described as niches. The caves were created about 1,600 years ago during the Northern Wei and Western Jin dynasties. It is believed that the artists hung down the cliffs on ropes, and chiseled out sculptures into the rock-face. The style of work is similar to the Buddhist caves at Datong and Luoyang. Most of the caves contain rock-cut statues, clay sculptures, and colorful frescoes. One of the earliest caves, No. 169, dates to AD 420, and contains a Buddha and two
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Bodhisattvas that are among the oldest and best preserved 155 miles (250 km) SE of Lanzhou. £ in China. Most of the other caves were completed during Hidden in the hills in a the Tang era. The most mountainous region near impressive cave, No. 172, has an the Gansu-Ningxia border is 89-ft (27-m) high seated statue the sleepy town of Pingliang. of Maitreya (the Future Buddha). Surrounded by beautiful peaks, There are also four clay some of which rise to heights pagodas and another of 6,890 ft (2,100 m), it one carved from stone. remains one of the leastWork on the sculpvisited parts of the tures continued long province, and is mostly after the Silk Road used as a convenient had lost its imporbase for exploring tance, and there Kongtong Shan, are examples of a Daoist monastery, Carved stele, Kongtong work from the Song, 6 miles (10 km) west Shan, Pingliang Ming, and Qing of town. Perched dynasties. The paintings reached dramatically on a clifftop of the their height during the Song same name, the monastery lies and Ming dynasties, although close to a glittering lake and a there are some older and few other temples scattered comparatively cruder paintings across the landscape. The dating back to the Tang period. surrounding area is excellent Getting to the caves can be for taking long walks across slightly uncertain, as access the lush green hills.
Kongtong Shan’s lush north peak, Pingliang
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
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The Spread of Buddhism Buddhism’s establishment in China was a long process and the date of its arrival is uncertain. The earliest sign of the religion in China is associated with the foundation of the White Horse Temple (see p158) during the Han dynasty near the imperial capital of Luoyang. Based on the teachings of Buddha who lived in northern India during the 6th century BC, Buddhism was probably disseminated along the Silk Route by immigrants from Central Asia from the 1st century onwards. In China, Buddhism surged in popularity during periods of instability, when Confucianism’s veneration for authority did not sit well with the populace (see p36), and it was eventually adopted by China’s rulers. The Mahayana School (see p37) took hold in China, breaking into different sects, such as the Chan sect, which gained a large following in Japan as Zen Buddhism.
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Mahayana Buddhism started in India in the first century AD, finally spreading to Japan, via China, around AD 600.
The Great Goose Pagoda in Xi’an was built for the monk Xuanzang in AD 652 to house the sutras he brought back from India, a pilgrimage immortalized in Journey to the West (see p35). He spent the remainder of his life translating the sutras, aiding the spread of Buddhism.
The caves at Dunhuang (see pp500–1), served as the last stop on the Silk Road for pilgrim monks on their way to India. The frescoes and carvings, which celebrate the spread of Buddhism and date from the 4th to the 11th century, are among the most important early Buddhist works in China.
Guanyin, the female Bodhisattva of Compassion, was originally the male deity Avalokitesvara. This sex change is one way the Chinese adapted Buddhism to suit their needs. Guanyin became the patron of motherhood and is the most worshiped figure in China. The early Tang dynasty was a time of Buddhist renaissance, with the religion gaining imperial patronage. In the 9th century, however, rebellions provoked a period of Buddhist suppression.
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Wuwei
140 miles (225 km) NW of Lanzhou. £@
Lying between Lanzhou and Zhangye, this small town is where Gansu’s most celebrated relic, the bronze Flying Horse, was discovered in 1969. Found in an Eastern Han tomb in the grounds of Leitai Si, a few miles north of town, the Flying Horse is now in the Provincial Museum in Lanzhou, and its symbol can be A traditional incense burner in the grounds of Dafo Si, Zhangye seen all over Wuwei. The tomb, a series of empty passageways, north of the fort is Xuanbi era. South along Nan Jie lies Tu houses replicas of its original Ta, a former Buddhist monastery Changcheng (Overhanging relics and is open to visitors. featuring a large stupa. Also Wall), a restored section of the Other sights are the brick nearby is the Dafo Si, which wall dating to the 16th century, that once linked the fort to the houses the largest reclining Luoshi Ta, off Bei Dajie, and mountains. In the same area, Buddha in China in its hall. farther east, the old Bell Tower Lying 37 miles (60 km) south the Hei Shan rock carvings with pleasant gardens. To depict scenes from daily life of Zhangye, in the Tibetan the south is Wen Miao, a during the Warring States town of Mati, is Mati Si, museum set in the grounds period. Situated 4 miles (6 km) a fascinating complex of a temple. The South south of town is the First of Buddhist caves Gate (Nan Men) has carved into a cliff. been reconstructed Beacon Tower, a desolate A view of the stupa and adds a little oldoutpost that marks the start (or at Dafo Si world grandeur to a end) of the western part of the rapidly changing town. Ming-dynasty Great Wall. About q Jiayuguan 12 miles (20 km) east of town E Wen Miao are tombs from the Wei and Jin 475 miles (765 km) NW of Lanzhou. Tel (0935) 221 5849. Open 7:30am– eras (220–420 AD), whose bricks £ @ from Dunhuang. 6pm daily. & are painted with celebratory scenes. The Qilian Shan peaks, Traditionally regarded as China’s 75 miles (120 km) to the south, cradle the 14,110 ft (4,300 m) final outpost, the last point of 0 Zhangye Qiyi Bingchuan (July 1st Glacier), civilization before the desert, reached by a combination of Jiayuguan is visited mainly for 280 miles (450 km) NW of Lanzhou. train, taxi, and foot. its Ming-era fort (see pp496–7). £@ Within town, the Great Wall Museum documents the history E Great Wall Museum 24 Xinhua Nan Lu. Tel (0937) 639 of the wall from the Han to the Once a stopover on the Silk 6110. Open 8:10am–7pm daily Ming eras. Exhibits include Road, Zhangye has several photographs of remote sections (Nov–Apr: 9am–5pm). sights of interest. At its center is a Ming-era Gulou (Drum Tower), of the wall as well as scale models. Several other sights lie around with a large bell. To the east, Jiayuguan. About 4 miles (6 km) Daode Guan is an active Daoist shrine also dating to the Ming
The 16th-century ramparts of Xuanbi Changcheng (Overhanging Wall), Jiayuguan Colorful rock formations at Zhangye Danxia Landform Geological Park, Gansu
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The Great Game The “Great Game” was the name, popularized by Rudyard Kipling in Kim, of the covert war fought by the Russian and British empires for influence in the deserts and mountains of Central Asia at the end of the 19th century. Afghanistan was the first target for these two great empires and both sides vied for influence, with the British eventually succeeding in establishing a sympathetic regime in 1880. Meanwhile in Chinese Turkestan (Xinjiang) the Muslims broke free of China and set up the state of Kashgaria in 1863 under Yakub Beg. The Russians invaded the Ili Valley and, when China took Xinjiang back in 1877, negotiated to establish consulates in the area. The British response was to set up a trade mission in Kashgar and take a more aggressive approach in Tibet. In 1907 the stand-off ended with the Anglo-Russian Convention, which clearly defined territorial limits.
Sher Ali (1825–79), the son of Dost Mohammed who fought the British in the first Anglo-Afghan War, allowed entry to a Russian diplomatic mission, but turned back a British one. This sparked the second Anglo-Afghan War, after which the British placed Abdur Rahman on the throne in 1880.
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Central Asia was where the Russian, British and Chinese empires touched. The British, fearful of the Russian threat to India, wanted to cultivate a buffer zone around its frontier, using Afghanistan, Kashgaria and Tibet.
The Open Mouth (1899), a Punch cartoon, shows the British Lion and Russian Bear trying to get their hands on a scared Chinaman. China, weakened by internal strife, was repeatedly forced to sign unfair treaties handing over land and allowing the superpowers to establish trade missions that were used to spy on the other side.
The Pamir Mountains held the passes that Alexander the Great and Timur (Tamerlane) had used to invade India. Russian advances here in 1885 and 1896 led to the mobilization of British troops, but treaties establishing new frontiers prevented war both times. Tibet became involved when Britain placed it in China’s sphere of influence. In response Tibet refused to acknowledge British attempts to set up a trade mission, resulting in the attack on Gyantse in 1903 (see p547) by Younghusband.
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Jiayuguan Fort
At the western extremity of the Great Wall stands the Jiayuguan Fort, dominating the stony plain that separates two mountain ranges. Built of tamped earth in 1372, in the distinctive, embattled Ming-dynasty style, it was dubbed the “Impregnable Defile Under Heaven.” It was of enormous strategic importance as it controlled the only military and trade link between China and the deserts of Central Asia. The frontier lay some way farther west, but for the Chinese Jiayuguan was the last outpost of civilisation, beyond which lay barbarian country, a place of perdition, fit only for exiled officials and banished criminals.
Trap Court This was used to lure the enemy into a place from where they could be attacked from above. It also served as a holding bay for caravans.
KEY 1 Corner Towers gave protection to archers while they fired on the attacking troops. 2 “Gate of Sighs” was once inscribed with the sorrowful graffiti of those leaving China 3.Jiayuguan Men is three stories high with typical Ming-style upturned eaves. 4 Rou Yuan Men or Gate of Conciliation 5 Accommodations for the generals and their families. 6 Wenchang Hall served as the official meeting point for visiting dignitaries coming from the interior of China. 7 Outer wall of the fort 8 Inner Wall is fortified by a 6-ft (1.8-m) parapet and embrasured towers.
. Fort Walls Built of tamped earth and bricks, the mighty 35-ft (10-m) high walls were designed to be accessed by horses via ramps that lead from the gates to the battlements. The total length of the walls is about half a mile (750 m).
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Detail inside tower As shown by these wooden doors, the interiors of the towers were beautifully painted in typical Ming style.
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. Guanghua Men Rising 56 ft (17 m) above the fortress walls, the gate tower was originally completed in 1506, although like the others it has been extensively renovated.
Practical Information 3 miles (5 km) W of Jiayuguan. Tel (0937) 639 6058. Open July– Oct: 8am–5pm daily; Nov–Jun: 9am–5pm daily. & includes entry to the Great Wall Museum.
Guandi Temple This provided spiritual nourishment for the troops. The temple would have offered a mixture of Buddhist, Daoist, and Confucian ceremonies.
Old Theater This was a later, Qing-dynasty, addition to the fort and was used for entertaining the troops stationed both at the fort and at garrisons along the Great Wall.
End of the Great Wall of China The wall stretches out either side of the fort closing off the plain. The wall is made of tamped earth, a raw material in ready supply in the desert.
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A camel ride across the dunes at Mingsha Shan, Dunhuang w
Dunhuang
Yueya Quan (Crescent Moon Environs: About 12 miles (20 km) Lake), a small freshwater lake that southwest of Dunhuang has been a vital source of water lies Dunhuang Gucheng ~ £ Liuyuan, 80 miles (130 km) to here for thousands of years. It lies (Dunhuang Ancient City), a film the north, then bus. @ n 33 Ming adjacent to the Mingsha Shan set built in the 1990s that was Shan Rd, (0937) 883 7021. (Singing Sand Mountains), which never dismantled. Its location tower several hundred and panoramic views are A small oasis town, feet high. The dunes impressive, but it is rather dogDunhuang once were named after the eared on closer inspection. prospered as the last sound of sand being However, the set has become stop on the Silk Road crunched under foot. a regular tourist stop with before it split north For some remarkable souvenir stores and even and south to skirt the views, visitors can accommodations in yurts. Taklamakan Desert. It is Printed textiles, climb the dunes – Lying 50 miles (80 km) west of a pleasant settlement Dunhuang market preferably in the cool Dunhuang are two Han-dynasty that has achieved a of the evening. There is also a gates, Yu Men Guan (Jade Gate certain level of prosperity, range of activities, including primarily through acting as a Pass) and Yang Guan (South paragliding, sand tobogganing, base for visiting the famous Pass). Separated by 3 miles (5 km) grottoes at Mogao (see pp500–1), and camel rides. A small folk art of desert, they were once linked a short distance away. The town museum lies nearby. by the Great Wall. Abandoned Situated in the middle of caters for its foreign visitors and over 1,000 years ago and under fields about 2 miles (4 km) west has several restaurants and constant attack by the desert, of Dunhuang is the nine-story budget hotels. The only items the two towers remain quite of interest at the Dunhuang Baima Ta (White Horse Pagoda). impressive. The huge cube of the Yu Men Guan with its 33-ft (10-m) This Tibetan-style pagoda was County Museum (Xian walls is the only discernible built in memory of a horse Bowuguan) are a few Chinese man-made structure in sight. belonging to the monk, and Tibetan manuscripts, from Mogao’s famous Cave 17, which Kumarajiva, who escaped the looting of explorers came from the Silk and archeologists. The museum Road kingdom of Kuqa (see p513). also has examples of traditional The horse died silks and domestic items found here in AD 384. near the beacon towers that were once part of China’s outermost line of defense. There E Dunhuang is a souvenir night market every County Museum 8 Yangguan Dong Lu. summer evening along the Tel (0937) 881 8162. town’s main thoroughfare, Open 9am–5:30pm Dong Dajie. The range of items on sale includes leather shadow Tue–Sun. puppets, Chinese scroll paintings, } Yueya Quan jade items, coins, Tibetan horns, Tel (0937) 887 5209. Open 8am–5pm and Buddha statues.just 3 miles daily. & (5 km) south of Dunhuang is Yueya Quan and Mingsha Shan dunes, Dunhuang For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
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Race for the Silk Road Oases A scholarly reflection of the political rivalry between the great powers at the end of the 19th century was the race between a group of explorer-archeologists to locate (and plunder) the lost towns of the Silk Road. Between them, they succeeded in uncovering a huge number of long-forgotten, desert-scoured towns. These pioneers furthered the knowledge of life along the Silk Road and saved many items from further degradation. However, they did remove vast quantities of priceless works of art, to the eventual annoyance of the Chinese government. These are now scattered in museums around the globe. Initial interest in the region by the British was based on strategic considerations (see p495); then, as stories of lost cities emerged, the interest of antiquarians around the world was aroused. Controversial though they were, their excavations captured the world’s imagination.
Tales of buried cities being uncovered by sandstorms emerged at the end of the 19th century. The Gaochang Ruins, discovered by von Le Coq, were found to have been a major Buddhist and Nestorian center (see p471).
Sven Hedin (1865–1952), from Sweden, was the first of many governmentsponsored adventurers to explore these isolated regions. The others were Albert von Le Coq from Germany, Count Otani of Japan, Paul Pelliot of France, Sir Aurel Stein from Great Britain, and Langdon Warner from the USA.
This Buddha’s head came from the Bezeklik Caves, discovered by von Le Coq in 1904. These caves held some beautiful murals protected over the years by the encroaching sand. Von Le Coq simply cut them from the walls and sent them home to Germany. Unfortunately, the murals were destroyed by bombing during World War II.
This silk painting is from the Mogao Caves, which were reached by Aurel Stein in 1907. He befriended the Abbot, Wang, and gained access to the newly discovered silks and manuscripts of Cave 17.
This fresco of a bodhisattva and other wall paintings at the Mogao Caves were considered sacred, so the collectors could not remove them (see p500). But Stein and the others negotiated with Abbot Wang to carry off thousands of historic items.
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The Cave Paintings of Dunhuang Protected by their relative isolation, the cave paintings at Dunhuang form the most fascinating repository of Buddhist art in China. For over 700 years, between the 4th and 11th centuries AD, Buddhist monks excavated and painted these caves, until invasion and the encroachment of Islam brought work to a halt. The paintings were all but forgotten until 1907, when the explorer Sir Aurel Stein stumbled across the caves and the Daoist priest who guarded them, Wang Yuanlu. Among the many thousands of items uncovered by Stein is the Diamond Sutra, the world’s earliest printed book (in scroll form), and many of the patterns used by the monks to reproduce paintings at will.
Cave 275: Sixteen Kingdoms 366–439 This early cave of the Northern Liang Period is dedicated to the Maitreya or Future Buddha, who is depicted in wall paintings and statues.
Cave 254: Northern Wei 439–534 This cave shows stories of Buddha’s early life, including the Sacrifice of the Prince. The murals are richer in content than in earlier caves and the artwork has become more accomplished.
Cave 272: Sixteen Kingdoms 366–439 These Devas (Buddhist angels) are in rapture as they listen to the Buddha’s teaching.
Cave 249: Western Wei 535–556 On the north wall there is a wonderfully lively hunting scene showing the backward-shooting hunter – a feat only made possible with the invention of the stirrup.
Cave 419: Sui 581–618 Under the shortlived Sui dynasty, China was reunified with both the north and south adopting Buddhism as their religion. This harmony allowed the development of a more Chinese artistic style and was a highly fruitful time for Dunhuang. This cave portrays the good prince on a hunting trip with his brothers.
Cave 428: Northern Zhou 557–580 Stories of the good prince, an earlier incarnation of Buddha, abound. Here he offers himself to a starving tigress so she may feed her cubs.
Cave 420: Sui 581– 618 This fresco portrays a journey on the Silk Road, the route via which Buddhism came to China, as well as pictures of buildings in a style of which no real example survives.
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Cave 220: Early Tang 618– 704 Rich patrons would often feature in murals. This cave portrays ten generations of the wealthy Zhai family. The Dunhuang cliff face, home to 1,000 years of Buddhist history
Mogao Caves
Cave 217: Early to High Tang 618–780 Detail of the Western Paradise of Amitabha Buddha. This cave contains some wonderful, unfinished paintings of Bodhisattvas.
Cave 17: Late Tang 848–906 A detail from the famous cave where the massive library of sutras was first found by Abbot Wang.
Cave 263: Western Xia 1036– 1226 Under the Western Xia dynasty a lot of older caves were simply redecorated. This was originally a cave of Northern Wei origin.
not allowed in the caves (unless you have a very expensive permit), a rule that Mogao, 15 miles (25 km) SE of is strenuously enforced. The Dunhuang, Gansu Province. Tel (0937) standard tour lasts half a day, 886 9060. @ Open 8:15am–4:30pm and includes about fifteen of daily (mid-Nov–Apr: 9:15am–4pm). the caves, as well as the &8^ museum, which exhibits some of the ancient manuscripts The caves at Mogao were dug found here. It is also worth into cliffs that rise out of an visiting the Research and otherwise largely flat and Exhibition Center, where featureless desert seven of the caves have landscape. Getting been reproduced, there is relatively easy, permitting far closer if you are travelling scrutiny of the paintings independently, as than is possible in the Dunhuang is crawling original caves, albeit with minibuses. As without the same usual, the drivers wait atmosphere of until every seat is taken antiquity. There is a before setting off, but simple guesthouse the half-hour journey for those wishing is cheap. Remember to stay overnight; that the caves are Statue from pagoda otherwise, the return closed between at Mogao caves journey to Dunhuang 11:30am and 2:30pm. is by minibus, the last one Of the six hundred surviving leaving around 6pm. caves, only about twenty are open to the public. The entrance fee includes a Chinese-speaking guide, although it is worthwhile, for an additional fee, engaging an English-speaking guide, since the tour party is likely to be smaller and the choice of caves less rigidly laid down. The caves that include portrayals of tantric sex can also sometimes be opened for a supplementary payment. The guides are generally fairly knowledgeable about the history of the caves and the paintings and sculptures within. You are, however, recommended to take your own flashlight and to Façade of Cave 96, covering a 100-ft (30-m) remember that photography is statue of Buddha For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
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The beautifully decorated door of Longwu Si’s prayer hall, Tongren e
Tongren
66 miles (107 km) W of Xiahe. @ _ Lurol Festival (6th lunar month), Buddhist Festival (1st lunar month).
Known as Repkong in Tibetan, Tongren is a transit point between Xiahe and Xining. This small town offers fascinating insights into the life of the Tibetan people. On the outskirts of town lies the colorfully decorated lamasery, Longwu Si, containing fine relics in its many halls. Initially built in 1301 during the Yuan dynasty, today’s modern reconstruction houses three colleges and an assortment of lamaseries belonging to the Yellow Hat sect – a branch of Tibetan Buddhism (see pp526–7). At dusk, visitors can watch the resident monks debating, using elaborate formalized body language to
From the 16th century, it served make a point. Sometimes, if as a stopover on the Silk Road’s you’re lucky, they can also be lesser-used southern route, seen making sand paintings. Behind the monastery, a stream and is now a good base for flows into the grassland for about exploring Qinghai. Xining lies in a mile, leading to a pretty Tibetan a remote valley, and, at 7,464 ft (2,275 m), experiences a cool village. Situated in another summer and freezing winter. village, Sengeshong, 4 miles The Great Mosque, one of (7 km) from the city center, the Wutun and Gomar the largest and most impressive in northwest monasteries are home China, is situated on to some of the best Dongguan Dajie, Tibetan artists in the close to the city world. Both monasteries center. It was are magnificently decororiginally built in ated, with every surface the 14th century, of their assembly halls and is thoroughly carved and painted with Chinese in design, traditional Repkong with elements designs. The residents A devotee in the such as flying of this village speak a Great Mosque eaves and vividly mixture of Tibetan, colored arches. Enclosed Mongolian, and other dialects. within is a public square, that is usually bustling with r Ta’er Si thousands of worshipers. In the far north of town, See pp504–5. across the Huangshui River, the Daoist Bei Shan Si sits atop a hill and is the focus for a t Xining pleasant afternoon’s hike. The route, via stone steps and across wooden walkways, passes 144 miles (232 km) W of Lanzhou. numerous cave shrines. * 2,130,000. ~ £ @ n Qinghai Xining’s ethnic mix is best Tourism Bureau, (0971) 820 3271. appreciated at Shuijing Xiang Although blessed with very few Market, in the west of town off sights, Qinghai’s capital, Xining, Xi Dajie, where over 3,000 stalls is home to an intriguing mix of sell all manner of provisions and minority peoples, mostly Hui food, especially hot breads, Muslims and Tibetans with a mutton dishes, and kabobs. sprinkling of Kazakhs and It is also a good place to stock Mongols. It is the starting up on snacks before heading point of the railway to Lhasa, off on a trip to Qinghai Hu, and trains depart daily. to the west of town.
The grand Chinese-style architecture of the 14th-century Great Mosque, Xining For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
GANSU & QINGHAI
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On the southern shore, the Qinghai Lake Tourist Center offers opportunities for boating, fishing, horse riding, and trekking. Accommodations are available at the tourist center. i
Golmud
474 miles (762 km) W of Xining. ~ £ @ n 60 Ba Yi Rd, (0979) 849 5123.
Mengda Tian Chi nature reserve along the banks of the Yellow River y
Mengda Tian Chi
u
Qinghai Hu
Its location on the Tibetan plateau, at a height of 10,500 ft (3,200 m) above sea level, 124 miles (200 km) SE of Xining. @ to makes it extremely remote, Guanting or Xunhua, then taxi. & accessible only with the help of a tour agency. The lake is home to many Tibetan nomads, The remarkably beautiful Tian who graze their yaks and sheep Chi, or “Heavenly Lake,” forms near the lake, and in summer, the core of the Mengda Nature numerous herds can be Reserve, situated along the spotted grazing. Yellow River. In contrast The lake’s icy salt to most other parts water is home to of the province, the large quantities land here is fertile of fish, which feed and abounds with a thriving bird vegetation. Most population. Most of the reserve is trips to the lake woodland, offering A medallion with Tibetan center around a opportunities for calligraphy visit to Bird Island, scenic walks and birdwatching. a rocky outcrop Accommodations are available on the western side where at the reserve, while trips can colonies of swans, cormorants, be arranged through Xining’s bar-headed geese, and rare Tourist Office. The trip to black-necked cranes, among Mengda Tian Chi from Xunhua others, flourish during the is spectacular, winding along breeding season. a precipitous road that cuts into the cliffs along the Yellow River. Xunhua is home to the Turkic-speaking Salar people, who have been here for centuries but originate from modern-day Uzbekistan.
In the far west of Qinghai, Golmud is perched at 9,186 ft (2,800 m) in the forlorn Tibetan plateau. The only sizable town for several hundred miles, it is the second largest city in the province after Xining, with a largely Han Chinese population. The town’s bus service, which runs to Lhasa in Tibet, is not particularly cheap and very few people use it now that the 625-mile (1,000-km) railway line to Lhasa has been built, which is the highest railway in the world and has pressurized carriages and oxygen supplies on board. Train journeys to Lhasa do not originate in Golmud, however, contrary to popular belief, but pass through it only. Xining is now the starting point for journeys to Lhasa from Qinghai Province. One route out of Golmud is to take a land-cruiser tour into some of the remoter parts of Xinjiang. Golmud itself is largely unappealing, although the surrounding lunar-looking landscape has a rugged charm best appreciated on the way out.
93 miles (150 km) W of Xining. Bird Island: Closed Nov–Feb. & 8
The largest lake in China, Qinghai Hu covers a vast area of over 1,740 sq miles (4,500 sq km).
Colorful Tibetan prayer flags on the shore of Qinghai Hu
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INNER MONGOLIA AND THE SILK ROADS
Ta’er Si
Nestled into a hillside, this walled temple complex, also known as Kumbum Monastery is one of the most important Tibetan Buddhist sites in China. Tsongkhapa, founder of the Gelugpa sect (see p526), was born here in 1357, and the first temple was built in his honor in 1577. The monastery was closed for a period under Communist rule, although the buildings were afforded protection during the Cultural Revolution, and reopened in 1979. A major restoration project has been undertaken since an earthquake rocked the complex in 1990. Ta’er Si is easily accessible from Xining, and so is popular with both tourists and pilgrims.
Pilgrim Turning a hand-held prayer wheel and fingering prayer beads, the devout walk clockwise around the perimeter of the complex.
. Hall of Butter Sculpture This strongly fragrant exhibition is packed with intricately carved yak butter sculptures. The gaudily painted figures depict scenes from Buddhist lore.
KEY 1 Grand Kitchen 2 Prayer Hall 3 Dinkejing Hall
. Great Hall of Meditation
4 Nine Room Hall
This evocative chamber, where up to 2,000 monks could gather to chant sutras, is hung with silken thangkas. The flat roof rests on grand pillars, each wrapped in an exquisite carpet.
5 Visitors who climb these
steps are rewarded with views across the valley. 6 Dafangzhang Hall
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
. Great Golden Roof Hall This temple was built at the spot where Tsongkhapa was born and a tree is said to have grown with an image of the Buddha on each leaf. It contains a silver stupa holding his image.
GANSU & QINGHAI
Local monk Ta’er Si is a working monastery and houses over 650 monks, who spend their life studying Buddhist teachings. There were once as many as 3,500 resident monks.
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Huangzhong. 17 miles (28 km) S of Xining. Tel (0971) 223 2357. Open 8am–6pm daily. & _ Monlam: 8th–15th of 1st lunar month; Saka Dawa: 8th–15th of 4th month; Tsongkhapa: 20th–26th of 9th month. Transport. @ from Xining (depart just west of Xi Men).
Chorten A towering chorten of 46 ft (13 m) marks the monastery’s entrance. The square base symbolizes earth, the dome water, the steps fire, and the parasol wind, all of which is topped by a crown representing the ethereal sphere.
Lesser Golden Roof Hall A truly bizarre pavilion, this temple is dedicated to animals. Stuffed deer, sheep, and goats, draped in ceremonial scarves, peer down from the upper story.
Prayer Hall This time-worn temple is still used for religious tutelage. The external murals are new, however, and show a mix of Chinese and Tibetan influences.
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XINJIANG Although technically an autonomous region, Xinjiang is the largest of China’s provinces, and shares borders with eight countries. This isolated region is largely desert and grassland fringed by some of the highest mountains in the world. Two thousand years ago a string of oasis towns were established along the Silk Roads that skirted the northern and southern edges of the scorching Taklamakan Desert. Trade attracted merchants from India and Europe, and Xinjiang became the meeting point of east and west, with Christian churches and Buddhist temples. At the end of the Tang era, Turkic tribes repeatedly overran the region, and by the 15th century Islam was established as the main religion. In the 18th century, the Chinese took control of what was then Kashgaria, and despite several revolts, have maintained their rule ever since. Almost fifty percent of the population is comprised of ethnic minorities, and in 1955, in deference to the large Uighur population, the area became the Xinjiang Uighur Autonomous Region, with its capital at Ürümqi. Today, highlights of a visit include the Tian Shan range and the rich pastures around Tian Chi (Heaven Lake) outside Ürümqi, and Silk Road towns such as Turpan and Kashgar, shaded by palm trees and set against a backdrop of desert and mountain. It is also possible to travel southwest over the Karakoram mountains into Pakistan or west into Kazakhstan along the ancient trade routes.
Sights at a Glance
Key Lakes, Mountains & Areas of Natural Beauty 3 Tian Chi 4 Altai 6 Sayram Lake 7 Yining & Ili Valley 0 Karakoram Highway
Towns & Cities 1 Turpan 2 Ürümqi 5 Ghost City 8 Kuqa 9 Kashgar q Yengisar w Yarkand e Karghilik r Hotan
Expressway National Highway Minor road Railroad International border Provincial border Disputed border Kanas
Burqin Fuyun 0 km
Karamay
Shaqiuhe
Shihezi Usu idu
He
Kümüx Korla Tikanlik
He
21
MAKAN
217
314
Xingxingxia Kum Kuduk
Argan
Yumen
8
KLA Markit T A
DESERT Ruoqiang
Yandun
0
m Tari
Hami
G3
Aksu
Barkol Yiwu
Luntai
Akqi
Mori
Xiaocaohu
314
Baicheng
Baykurt
Fukang
G30
Narat K a
200
0 miles
216
Urho
Toli
Zhaosu
200
21
7
Tacheng
Qiemo
5
31
315
Xorkol
Pishan
Taxkorgan
Qira
Akmeqit
Minfeng
21
9
Xaidulla Dahongliutan
Pulu
The beautiful Tian Chi, surrounded by mountains
Golmud
For additional map symbols see back flap
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INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS
its grapes, with mudbrick houses and dusty streets often covered with trellised vines. The original Silk Road settlements of Jiaohe and Gaochang lie outside town along with other sights. In summer, the heat is intense, and it is best to use donkey carts as taxis. U Emin Ta
1.5 miles (2.5 km) E of town. Open 8am–9pm daily (mid-Oct–mid-Apr: 10am–6:30pm). &
This is perhaps the most interesting of 1 Turpan Turpan’s numerous mosques because of its old minaret (Emin Ta), constructed in 1778, that 116 miles (187 km) SE of Ürümqi. rises like a stout but graceful * 255,000. £ Daheyan, 33 miles chimney beside it. Built by (54 km) N of Turpan, then minibus. @ Prince Suleiman in honor of his n Turpan Bing Guan, (0995) 852 1352. father, Prince Emin, the minaret is broad at the base and tapers toward the top. This oasis town on the Designed in the northern Silk Road lies in the Iranian style with Turpan depression – one of the some elaborately lowest areas on earth – decorative brickand is largely an work, its staircase Uighur settlement. was closed in 1989. The Uighur Dried fruit on sale, descended from Turfan bazaar ( Bazaar nomadic Siberian Laocheng Lu. tribes who united in Open daily. the 7th century and settled in the region in the 9th century. The small Turpan market is an They later converted to Islam as interesting place to browse for it spread across Central Asia. It is local products including a an easy-going place, famous for variety of medicinal potions, The graceful Emin Ta and Iranian-style mosque
The ruined city of Jiaohe set against a backdrop of hills on a steep plateau For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
decorated knives, clothing, fabric, nuts, and fruit (especially raisins). E Turpan Museum
Gaochang Lu. Tel (0995) 761 9650. Open 10am–6:30pm Tue–Sun. &
This small museum has a few worthwhile exhibits. The main points of interest are items excavated from the now empty Tang-dynasty Astana tombs located outside town. These include ancient silks, clothes, food items, and even some preserved corpses. P Jiaohe Ruins
6 miles (10 km) W of Turpan. @ minibus or cycle. Open 9am–6pm daily. &8
Although less important and smaller than Gaochang, the ruins of Jiaohe are better defined. Jiaohe was founded as a garrison town but came under Uighur jurisdiction in the 6th century. It was finally abandoned during the Yuan era, perhaps due to failing water supplies. The ancient city occupies a position on a steep plateau, with its street plan clearly visible, and is well worth a visit. Returning from Jiaohe, visitors can stop off to see the karez irrigation site. Used throughout Xinjiang, this ingenious system of irrigation taps into natural underground water sources by using a network of subterranean tunnels which channel water to the fields. Wells, dug at intervals along the length of the tunnels, bring water to the surface.
XINJIANG
} Grape Valley Tel (0995) 861 4688. @ minibus from town. Open daily. &
14th centuries. The caves originally stored a collection of Buddhist murals in the IndoIranian style, which showed An attractive desert oasis to the unusually marked western north of Turpan, Grape Valley influences. Sadly, only (Putao Gou) is best visited fragments remain, as after in the summer. With vines centuries of neglect, and trellises bulging they were all removed with grapes, it is a in the early 1900s by pleasant place to stop the German explorers for lunch, with plenty von Le Coq and of grapes and raisins Grunwedel, and to eat (for a fee). There placed in a Berlin is a winery nearby, as museum, where they well as brick silos for were later destroyed Buddha mural in the drying the grapes. Bezeklik Caves by Allied bombs } Flaming during World War II. Mountains Tel (0995) 869 6012. @ minibus from Astana town. Open daily. & 8
25 miles (40 km) SE of Turpan. @ minibus from town. Open dawn– dusk. &
The cemetery of the ancient city of Gaochang is located at Astana, a few miles northwest
P Gaochang Ruins
29 miles (46 km) SE of Turpan. Tel (0995) 869 3628. @ minibus from town. Open 8am–9pm daily (midOct–mid-Apr: 10am–6:30pm). & 8
Southeast of the Astana tombs lie the ruins of Gaochang city, surrounded by 33-ft (10-m) high walls. Founded as a garrison town in the 1st century AD, by the 4th century Gaochang had become the capital of the western Han empire. A cosmopolitan city with traces of Nestorian Christianity and Manichaeism (a Persian dualistic religion), it was visited by the monk Xuanzang in AD 630, on his journey to India in search of Buddhist sutras. From the 9th to the 13th centuries, the city was the Uighur capital, but was abandoned during the early Ming era. The ruins are extensive, but little is recognizable, apart from a Buddhist temple outside the southwest walls.
P Bezeklik Caves
31 miles (50 km) NE of town. Tel (0995) 868 9116. @ minibus from town. Open 8am–9pm daily (midOct–mid-Apr: 10am–6:30pm). & 8
Picturesquely situated in a desert gorge high above the Sengim River, the Bezeklik Caves once formed part of a Buddhist monastery between the 6th and
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of Gaochang. The tombs, dating from between the 3rd and 8th centuries AD, were systematically excavated from 1959, and revealed several corpses, mummified by the dry desert air. They had been wrapped in silks, and buried with many everyday items, including pottery, wooden carvings, coins, and documents relating to military and domestic transactions such as land tenures. Most items are now on display at museums in Turpan and Ürümqi, but the three tombs that are open to visitors display Tang-era paintings and a few preserved corpses.
The dramatic Flaming Mountains near Turpan
The road east to Bezeklik leads past these sandstone mountains, made famous in the novel Journey to the West, a fictionalized account of the journey of the pilgrim monk Xuanzang to India. In the book, the mountains (Huoyan Shan) are described as being on fire, and at certain times of day, a combination of sun and shadows makes them seem to flicker as though glowing red-hot.
The Bezeklik Caves situated in a spectacular river gorge
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Ürümqi
911 miles (1470 km) NE of Kashgar. k £ @ n 33 Renmin Lu, (0991) 281 7006.
Capital of Xinjiang since the 19th century, Ürümqi sits amid beautiful scenery, with the snow-laden Tian Shan to the east. It served as the base for a succession of warlords well into the 20th century, including the infamous Yang Zengxin who, in 1916, invited all his enemies to dinner and then beheaded them. Today a growing metropolis with a population of one million, Ürümqi is a modern Tian Shan peaks surrounding the deep-blue waters of Tian Chi Chinese city, with designer 3 Tian Chi stores and high-rises. Many Han Xinjiang Provincial Museum Chinese have settled here since devotes a section to archeolo1949, and the population is gical finds, especially from 62 miles (100 km) E of Ürümqi. n now half-Han and half-ethnic around Turpan, including (0994) 323 1238. @ from Ürümqi. minorities including some preserved & Uighur, Manchu, corpses, silk paintings, Closed in winter. Horses available for exploring lake area. Kazakh, Mongolian, and lovely brocades. and Tajik. A section dedicated No longer a remote to local peoples A refreshing break from the arid outpost, Ürümqi includes gers, deserts of northwestern China, was finally jewelry, and Tian Chi (Heaven Lake) is a beauconnected to traditional clothes. tiful stretch of water, surrounded Central Asia and In the north of the by luxuriant meadows and pine Europe after the city, the scenic forests. It lies at an elevation of Ürümqi-Almaty rail Pagoda in Hongshan Park, Hong Shan Park 6,500 ft (1,980 m), enclosed by line was built in Ürümqi snow-capped peaks including has a small 18th1991. Most visitors the majestic Bogda Feng, that century pagoda, come to see Tian Chi (Heaven reaches a height of almost and offers wonderful views. Lake) but the city has other 20,000 ft (6,000 m). A wonderful E Xinjiang Provincial Museum attractions such as its lively place for spending a day, Tian Xibei Lu. Tel (0991) 453 3561. Open markets and the fascinating Chi offers many opportunities 9:30am–6pm Tue–Sun. mix of ethnic peoples. The fine for leisurely walks and hikes in the lake area and through the neighboring countryside dotted Grapes & Wine with Kazakh gers. Nearly every household in the region is involved in grape production, The local Kazakhs are mostly either in cultivation, or in drying inside ventilated barns. In Xinjiang, nomadic, living off sheepthe use of grapes for making wine was first recorded by a Chinese breeding, and more recently, emissary in 138 BC, although grapes were possibly cultivated here as tourism. Very friendly and early as the Shang era. In fact, all wine-making in China was learned hospitable, they can arrange from the peoples of the western regions. By the Yuan era, wine guides and horse treks around production, based in the lake and into the hills. Xinjiang, was substantial, Tian Chi can only be and by the Ming period, visited during summer varieties such as the (May–September), as it is not crystal, the purple, and accessible during the winter the seedless green rabbitmonths. There are usually plenty eye grape were grown. of accommodations available in Today, wine production local Kazakh gers around the is thriving in China, and lake. Staying overnight can be most of these varieties are still grown. far more fun and interesting Fruit vendor weighing grapes at the than the day-tours which are marketplace in Ürümqi sometimes a bit tacky. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
XINJIANG
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Islam in China Islam probably came to Xinjiang via the Silk Road in the ninth century, some 200 years after Arab sailors had landed in southern China. By the Ming Dynasty, Muslims had flourished and become fully integrated into Han society without losing their dress and dietary customs. Despite hostile regimes and upheavals there is now a significant Muslim population of about 13 million. These comprise the Xinjiang nationalities – Uighur, Kazakhs, Kyrgyz, Tajiks, Tatars, and Uzbeks of the northwest – and the large contingent of Chinese-speaking Hui, scattered around the country. It is generally accepted that all Muslims in China are Sunni of the Hanafi School, which is one of four “schools of Islamic law.” It is considered the oldest and most liberal school and is traditionally tolerant of differences within Muslim communities. Mosques in China retain most traditional Islamic features but the pagodas and upturned eaves are clear signs of Chinese architectural influences.
The muezzin, as in all Muslim communities, calls the faithful to prayer five times a day. Today, the call is usually recorded and broadcast by loudspeaker.
Inside the mosque the congregation members, usually men, prostrate themselves before the mihrab, a niche in the wall indicating the direction of Mecca. The main hall is reserved for Friday prayers.
The Hui are said to be the descendants of the Arab and Persian traders who arrived in the Tang dynasty and married into Chinese families. They are the biggest Muslim minority.
The Koran was first translated into Chinese in 1927. Through the interpretations of the scholars, the Koran is a vital part of Islamic life.
Dongxiang Muslims hail from Gansu province and speak Mongolian. They have left pastoral herding in favor of a sedentary farming life.
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the Ghost City. Made famous by the movies filmed there, including Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, it is now a popular destination. Camel rides, mountain bikes, and fourwheel vehicles can be hired. 6
Sayram Lake
75 miles (120 km) N of Yining. @
The breathtaking alpine scenery of Hanas Lake Nature Reserve, Altai 4
Altai
404 miles (650 km) N of Ürümqi. ~ Altai, then bus. @ from Ürümqi to Burqin, then 93 miles (150 km) N via bus or car to reserve. n (0906) 652 4464.
In contrast to the arid deserts of southern Xinjiang, the far north is covered in forests, lakes, and streams, over looked by high mountains. The Altai region, bordering Mongolia, Russia, and Kazakhstan, is famous for its natural beauty, best seen in the Hanas Lake Nature Reserve (can be visited from Burqin). Centered around an alpine lake set at 4,490 ft
(1,370 m) in the glorious Altai mountains, the reserve supports a diversity of wildlife. The area is wonderful for walking, and boat trips are available on the lake. Tours from Ürümqi operate all year. 5
Ghost City
The jewel-like Sayram Lake, or Sailimu Hu, is a vast stretch of water set amidst magnificent mountain scenery and flowering meadows. Located at 6,560 ft (2,000 m), the lake area is chilly for most of the year, and only warm in summer when it is also covered in flowers. Reached by bus from Yining, it is a beautiful spot, barely touched by tourism, although it is possible to stay in simple lakeside guesthouses or gers (yurts).
Yining
魔鬼城
7
Near Urho, 62 miles (100 km) N of Karamay. * 13,000. n (0906) 652 4464. ~ Karamay, then bus. @ from Karamay. &
242 miles (390 km) W of Ürümqi. * 216,600. ~ @ from Ürümqi. Ili Valley: @ from Yining.
Rising above the ocean of oil rigs, along the Dsungar Basin, is a collection of wind-shaped rock formations, known as
Close to the border with Kazakhstan, Yining is the capital of the Ili Kazakh Autonomous Prefecture.
Woman tending her sheep in a flower-covered meadow on the shores of Sayram Lake For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
XINJIANG
A traditional shop in one of Yining’s Uighur bazaars
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founded on the vast wealth generated by the Silk Road trade. In the 7th century, the monk Xuanzang passed through Kuqa and claimed to have defeated its ruler in a philosophical debate. With the arrival of Islam in the 9th century, however, most traces of its Buddhist past disappeared. Mainly a stopover on the long journey to Kashgar, Kuqa is effectively two towns – New Kuqa and Old Kuqa. The old town has a bustling bazaar atmosphere, and a few dusty, narrow lanes lined with traditional mud houses. Built in 1923, the attractive green-tiled Great Mosque bears no traces of Chinese influences in its traditional arabesque design. One of the main reasons to visit Kuqa are the Thousand Buddha Caves at Kizil, 43 miles (70 km) west of town. The caves date to between AD 500–700 and the frescoes, in a mixture of Indo-Iranian and Greek styles, are fascinating for their total absence of Chinese influence. Unfortunately, the caves were looted at the beginning of the 20th century by archeological explorers. While most of the caves have been stripped of their frescoes, some of the cave decoration has survived, notably the musicians in Cave 38, and the domestic and agricultural scenes in Cave 175. About 19 miles (30 km) north of Kuqa lies the ruins of the ancient city of Subashi.
8 Kuqa In recent centuries, Russia has noticeably influenced Yining as it was occupied by Russians in 1872 when Yakub Beg ruled the 186 miles (300 km) SW of Ürümqi. * 75,000. ~ £ @ n Kuqa Travel region (then known as Agency, (0997) 712 9558. ( Fri. Kashgaria) and later, during the period of Sino-Soviet This small oasis town, friendship in the essentially an Uighur 1950s, a number settlement, has an of Russians resided interesting history. here. After An independent relations between state until the 8th China and the century, when it USSR broke down fell under Chinese Grapes for sale on the street, in the early 1960s, rule, the kingdom Yining there were violent had strong links border clashes along the Ili with India. Its significance as a River. More recently, Yining has Buddhist center dates back to been the scene of several Uighur the 4th century, when the uprisings, which were quelled. Buddhist scholar Kumarajiva Small, but pleasant and flourished. Born here, he went to friendly with tree-lined streets, school in Kashmir, northern India, Yining is known for its local and came back to China as a honey beer, and hard cheese. teacher and linguist, translating Its main draws are the lively Sanskrit texts into Chinese. The P Thousand Buddha Caves Uighur bazaars with their range town became a focal point Hired car or taxi. Tel (0997) 893 7006. of street food in the old city, from where Buddhism was south of Qingnian Park. In disseminated throughout China. Open daily. & 8 arranged by the Kuqa tourist office. summer, the town comes Several large monasteries were alive with bustling night markets and food stalls. About 3 miles (5 km) south of town, the Ili Valley (Ili Gu) is a scenic farm area of fields and meadows. Home to the Xibo people, a tiny minority, whose capital is at Chapucha’er. Related to the Manchus, the Xibo were sent here during the Qing era to maintain sovereignty in the region. They have kept themselves separate from the Han and other local communities, and retain their own language and script. The Thousand Buddha Caves at Kizil, outside Kuqa
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Kashgar
In the far west of Xinjiang, the Silk Road town of Kashgar lies at the foot of the Pamir mountains, with the Taklamakan Desert to the east. As the meeting point of the northern and southern Silk Roads and the gateway to the West, it was once a place of great significance. A Chinese garrison was established here in AD 78, but the area succumbed to the spread of Islam in the 9th century, and Kashgar did not become part of the Chinese empire again until the 18th century. Later, a Central Asian warlord, Yakub Beg, proclaimed himself Khan of the state of Kashgaria but he died in 1877 and China annexed the province. Today, Kashgar is once more a busy market town and transport hub, and despite rampant modernization retains much of its old charm.
the centuries, the mosque’s current structure dates back only as far as 1838, and was badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution (see pp70– 71). The main gate, flanked by a pair of small minarets, is a confection of marzipan-like yellow brick and tiling. Inside the gate is an octagonal pavilion and a pool, as well as a 100-columned space which can accommodate as many as 7,000 worshipers. Although women are generally not permitted to enter the mosque, all modestly dressed foreign visitors should have no problem, although there are times – such as during services – when non-believers are not allowed. Visitors are advised to remove their shoes when entering carpeted areas. P Old Town
Area to the NE of Id Kah Mosque.
Farmers waiting to trade livestock at market, Kashgar ( Sunday Market
U Id Kah Mosque
Near Ayziret Lu. Open daily. Livestock Market: Open Sun.
Idi Kah Square. Tel (0998) 282 3235. Open 9am–4pm daily (closed during services). &
Northeast of Id Kah Square is the sprawling Uighur bazaar area. Split into different sections, each specializes in particular items such as hats, musical instruments, carpets, and hardware. The main attractions are the locally-produced Kashgar kilims (carpets) and colorful Central Asian hats. Part of the area is a network of mud-brick walls and courtyards, with local teahouses and tiny restaurants selling flat breads, noodles, lamb stews, and kabobs. A 10-ft (3-m) section of the old city walls can be seen at the end of Seman Lu, east of the mosque, and on Yunmulakxia Lu, southwest of the mosque.
One of China’s most famous weekly markets, the Sunday The largest mosque in Xinjiang, Market lies in the northeast and one of the largest in China, suburbs, just beyond the river. Id Kah Mosque (Aitika Qingzhen Despite now being split into Si) was probably founded in two markets – the livestock 1738, although it possibly market is a few miles southeast stands on the site of a smaller of town – thousands of traders mosque, built in the 15th flood in from all directions on century. Built in the Central horseback, in donkey-drawn Asian style and altered over carts, on foot, and in every form of motorized vehicle. In the crush, stall holders sell blankets, garish fabrics, carpets, and fruit. However, the main attraction is the bustling livestock market. (Carts shuttle between the two.) Here horses are roadtested at a gallop and small herds of sheep are kept in order while waiting to be sold. It is a dusty, noisy, and photogenic place, which comes to life at dawn, and lasts into the evening. The Id Kah Mosque, with Kashgar city and the Pamirs on the horizon For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
KASHGAR
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information 920 miles (1,473 km) SW of Ürümqi. * 350,000. n 144 Se Man Rd, (0998) 298 4836. ( Sun. Transport k £ @ International Bus
Station, CAAC (buses to airport).
P Ruins of Ha Noi
One of many old alleyways lined with mud-brick houses, Kashgar
22 miles (35 km) NE of Kashgar.
Tomb of Yusup Hazi Hajup
T Caves of the Three
Open daily. &
Immortals
This favorite son of Kashgar was an 11th-century Uighur thinker and poet, renowned for his epic poem The Knowledge of Happiness. He was originally buried outside the city, but his tomb was relocated close to Kashgar’s main square, when threatened by a flooding river. Although it has a plain interior, the external structure is impressive. Top-ped with a blue dome and a cluster of minarets, the tomb is encased in blue-and-white tiles with Arabic motifs.
11 miles (18 km) N of Kashgar. & 8
The remains of the Tang-era town of Ha Noi lie in a desert setting northeast of Kashgar. Abandoned in the 12th century, the ruined 7th-century town offers little besides the Mor Pagoda, a large stupa said to have been visited by the monk Xuanzang on his historic journey to India.
Among the earliest Buddhist cave carvings in China, the Caves of the Three Immortals (Sanxian Dong) possibly date back to the 2nd century. The grottoes are not always accessible as they are perched high on a sandstone cliff. Poor attempts at restoration and embellishment over the years have destroyed many of the paintings and statues. However, a handful of small Buddha figurines remain, which can only be seen with the permission of the Kashgar tourist office. If permitted, visitors will have to take the official guided tour.
Aba Khoja Mausoleum See pp516–17.
Kashgar City Center
P Opal
18 miles (30 km) W of Kashgar.
Opal or Wupoer is the site of the renovated tomb of Mohammed Kashgari – an eminent 11thcentury scholar and philologist, credited with compiling the first Turkic-Arabic dictionary. A museum devoted to him is situated here, and every Monday there is also a colorful market. Ruins of Ha Noi
Caves of the Three Immortals Airport 12 km north
1 Sunday Market 2 Id Kah Mosque
Aba Khoja Mausoleum
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INNER MONGOLIA & THE SILK ROADS
Aba Khoja Mausoleum
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Built in the 17th century, the Aba Khoja Mausoleum and nearby buildings form one of the best examples of Islamic architecture in China. The mausoleum is the burial place of the family of Aba Khoja, a celebrated Islamic missionary. However, the monument is also known as Xiangfei’s Tomb, as it may be the burial place of one of Aba Khoja’s descendants, Ikparhan, said to be the legendary “fragrant concubine” Xiangfei. The wife of a defeated rebel leader, she was captured by the Qianlong emperor and taken back to Beijing to be his imperial concubine. Refusing to submit to him she was, depending on which story you believe, either murdered or driven to suicide by the emperor’s mother. Others claim she died of old age.
The entrance to the Aba Khoja complex lined with plane trees
. Geometric Decorations Floral and geometric patterns are common in Islamic art because creating animate objects was considered to be in God’s realm (flowers were considered inanimate).
KEY 1 The casket of Ikparhan is labelled inside the tomb hall. The carriage which supposedly carried her body back from Beijing is also on display. 2 The four corner minarets lack the slender grace of most other towers. Instead their charm derives from the colorful striping of the tiles and the exquisite detailing of Islamic motifs and patterns. 3 The dome is 56 ft (17 m) in diameter. Almost half the tiles have now fallen from the dome. 4 Graceful minarets flanking the entrance 5 Arabesques are beautiful floral patterns where a main stem branches into a series of secondary stems that may either branch again or rejoin the main stem, and so on.
. Tombs Decorated with blue-glazed tiles, the tombs of the Aba Khoja family lie on a raised platform, draped in colorful silks.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
KASHGAR
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Just over 2 miles (4 km) NE of Old Town center. Mausoleum: Open 9am–5pm daily. & Mosque: Open daily (prayer day Fri). & Transport @ from People’s Square. Also possible to cycle or walk.
Cemetery The cemetery, still in use by the local Uighur population, is filled with many hundreds of distinctively peaked, mud and brick tombs. The bodies of the dead are washed and prepared for burial in the adjacent mosque.
Minaret decoration Each of the windows are screened in a different geometric pattern. The surrounds are adorned with graceful arabesques while the turret is topped with an inverted lotus dome, scalloped edges, and finial.
The Aba Khoja Complex
Mausoleum Entrance The impressive façade of the mausoleum has a tiled iwan nichestyle entrance typical of mosques in Central Asia.
Although Islam came to Xinjiang via Arab traders on the Silk Road in the 9th and 10th centuries, it was not until the 15th century that it became the dominant religion of the area, and Kashgar became an important Islamic center. The Aba Khoja complex is a significant architectural ensemble comprising a mausoleum, four prayer halls, a lecture hall, and a cemetery. There is also a gateway covered in Arabic muqarnas on decorative, blue-glazed tiles and a pond in mosque pillar the courtyard for worshipers to cleanse themselves before entering the mosque. The halls are graced by exquisitely painted wooden beams supported by pillars with delightful muqarnas – an Islamic feature of projecting niches – on the capitals.
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Truck passing a checkpoint on the Karakoram Highway, with the Pamir mountains in the background
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Once a spur of the Silk Road, the Karakoram Highway (Zhongba Gonglu) was the only route over the Karakoram Mountains, to and from India. During the 1970s and 1980s, a road was built across the mountains following the old caravan route, to link China and Pakistan. The 808-mile (1,300-km) route from Kashgar to Islamabad in Pakistan, which stretches across the Pamir mountains over peaks reaching 26,250 ft (8,000 m), is one of awe-inspiring beauty. Camels and yaks, tended by Tajik herdsmen, graze in the highland pastures. Lakes with mirror-like surfaces, such as Lake Karakul, reflect the majesty of the mountains, while the remains of the occasional caravanserai stand crumbling at the side of the road. The last town in China is Tashkurgan, a bleak outpost, with the remains of an ancient fort. Beyond it is the 15,750-ft (4,800-m) high Khunjerab Pass, the gateway to Pakistan. The Pakistan border post lies just beyond at Sost. Visitors should note that the border is closed in winter, and that visas are required – issued in Beijing or Hong Kong – to cross into
Pakistan. The highway took nearly 20 years to build. The journey along it is fairly arduous, and although traveling conditions are improving, it is best to carry warm clothing, food, and drink for the trip, which takes about four days. q
Yengisar
37 miles (60 km) S of Kashgar. @
The small, sleepy town of Yengisar on the southern arm of the Silk Road is renowned for its locally produced knives. For centuries, the town has been manufacturing hand-crafted
knives for Uighur men, who carry them as traditional accoutrements. Knives of all shapes and sizes are sold in dozens of shops. While most of the knives produced are factorymade, traditional knife-making skills are still practiced by artisans in the center of town. Using basic tools, the workers at the Yengisar Country Small Knife Factory produce exquisite designs fashioned from fine woods, their handles inlaid with silver or horn. It is sometimes possible to visit the factory, even though a big board outside bears a “No Entrance” sign. The knives, which make attractive gifts, require special arrangements to be taken home.
Polished knives displayed at a stall in the Sunday Market, Yengisar
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
XINJIANG
Jade Jade, or nephrite, has been carved and polished by the Chinese for several thousand years, along with jadeite, soapstone, and chalcedony. While the latter are known as yu, nephrite is zhen yu, or true jade. Initially used as a tool, jade came to be widely used as jewelry during the Han era. By the Qing period, carvers were producing a variety of Uncut nephrite or decorative pieces including intricate jade true jade animals. Always thought of as being green, jade can in fact be brown, black, or the prized cloudy white. To the Chinese, it symbolizes longevity and purity, and is worn as an amulet to ward off disease. The country’s only source of nephrite is Xinjiang, particularly around Hotan, so a sophisticated supply system must have existed even in neolithic times. w
Yarkand
106 miles (170 km) SE of Kashgar. @
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Hotan
249 miles (400 km) SE of Kashgar. * 100,000. ~ @ n Hotan Travel, (0903) 251 5660. (
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here at bargain prices. Visitors interested in silk production can stop by the Hetian Silk Factory in the northeast of town. Sections of the old city walls still stand on both sides of Nuerwake Lu. The chaotic local market takes place on Fridays and Sundays in the northeast of town. Though not as large as its famous counterpart in Kashgar, it is a colorful affair with livestock, fruit, silks, and carpets on sale. At the end of the 19th century, the first rumors of the region’s lost cities – which inspired several expeditions – emanated from here. A detailed map, indicating the location of the buried cities, lies in the small Hetian Regional Museum. Items of interest include fragments of silk, wooden utensils, and jewelry excavated from nearby lost cities, as well as the mummified corpses of a 10-year-old girl and a 35-yearold man with Indo-European features, which are 1,500 years old. The ruined city of Melikawat lies over 18 miles (30 km) south of town. All that remains of this once significant Buddhist center are crumbling walls, and shards of glass and pottery.
For centuries an important commercial center on the southern arm of the Silk Road, The oasis town of Hotan, or Yarkand was, like Kashgar, Hetian, was an early center for prominent in the Great the spread of Buddhism before Game – the power Islam arrived in the 9th century. struggle between Formerly the capital of China, Russia and the Yutian kingdom, it Britain (see p494). has been, like most The old town, with Silk Road cities, its adobe walls and periodically narrow streets, has a subsumed into few interesting sights. the Chinese The Altyn Mosque empire. For E Hetian Regional Museum centuries, the town’s has beautifully A vendor pulls a cart 342 Beijing Xi Lu. Tel (0903) 251 9286. jade, carpets, and painted ceilings, and of radishes, Yarkand Open hours vary; call in advance. & silk have been in its courtyard is the considered the finest Tomb of Aman Isa Khan in China, and are (1526–60) – the poet wife of still produced in one of the local Khans – built factories across town. in 1992. Behind the mosque is According to legend, a sprawling cemetery housing the secret of silk was the tombs of the Khans of first introduced to Yarkand. There is also a lively the region by a Sunday market. Chinese princess betrothed to a local prince, who e Karghilik smuggled silk moth eggs in her hair in AD 144 miles (230 km) SE of Kashgar. @ 440. Craftsmen carve fine jade items at the Jade Factory on Tanai This town was a convenient Lu, while the Carpet stop between Hotan and Kashgar on the southern arm of Factory across the river is a friendly the Silk Road. The colorful old place also worth a Uighur town is definitely worth exploring, while the town’s main visit, especially for those wishing to attraction, the 15th-century buy a carpet, as Jama Masjid, sits amidst the they are available arcaded bazaar. Craftsmen at the open-air market in Hotan
TIBET Introducing Tibet
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Around Tibet
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Tibet at a Glance Bordered on three sides by some of the world’s highest mountain ranges – the Himalayas, the Karakoram, and the Kunlun – Tibet has remained in relative isolation. Sheltered first by its inaccessibility and then, in the age of air travel, by Chinese occupation, the “Roof of the World” is now open to foreign visitors. Its one major city, Lhasa, retains its spiritual core: the Jokhang; the venerable palace of the Dalai Lamas, the Potala; and great monasteries such as Drepung and Sera. Wherever you go, Tibet offers panoramic vistas of high-altitude desert fringed by peaks, but the turquoise depths of Lake Namtso and the sky-scraping peaks of Mount Everest are particularly worth visiting.
Thangka hanging on a door at the Jokhang Temple, Lhasa
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Getting There Visitors arrive mostly by air from Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan, or Kathmandu, Nepal. An overland route also connects Kathmandu and Lhasa, but while individual travelers can leave, only tour groups may enter this way. The bus route from Golmud in Qinghai has been superseded by a high-speed railway line, and most people take the train to Lhasa from Xining or Chengdu. No independent travel is allowed for foreigners in Tibet. The best option is to arrange a tour with an agency in Lhasa, which will also handle permits.
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A PORTRAIT OF TIBET Tibet’s reputation as a land of exotic mystery is due to centuries of geographic isolation and a unique theocratic culture, based on Buddhism but influenced by an older shamanistic faith called Bon. In 1950, China marched into Tibet and annexed the country. Despite this upheaval, the traditional culture and values of the Tibetans remain strong and continue to lure and enchant visitors. Since the introduction of Buddhism in the 7th century, the religion has permeated all aspects of Tibetan life, with monasteries acting as palaces, administrative centers, and schools. Ruled by priests, Tibet was feudal in outlook and resisted all modernization. The country thus entered the modern world without an army, lay education, or roads, and with few technologies more sophisticated than the prayer wheel. Buddhism was introduced in Tibet by Songsten Gampo (AD 608–50). A remarkable ruler who also unified the country, Songsten Gampo was converted to Buddhism by his Chinese and Nepalese wives. The next religious king, Trisong Detsen (742–803) consolidated the Buddhist faith, inviting the Indian teacher Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) to Tibet and founding Samye Monastery. A revival of the native Bon religion in the 8th century
Sprawling Ganden Monastery, built in the early 15th century
led to Buddhist persecution, and though the religion re-emerged later, the kingdom disintegrated into several principalities. In the 13th century, Tibet submitted to the Mongols, and in 1247 the head lama of Sakya Monastery was appointed Tibet’s ruler. Subsequently, Tsongkhapa (1357–1419) established the Gelugpa or Yellow Hat sect. His disciples became the Dalai Lamas, rulers of Tibet for 500 years. Each new Dalai Lama is seen as a reincarnation of the previous one. In 1950, the Chinese took advantage of a tenuous claim to the territory and invaded. In the uprising that followed in 1959, the 14th Dalai Lama (b.1935) fled to India, where he still heads the Tibetan Government-in-Exile. By 1970 more than a million Tibetans had died either directly at the hands of the Chinese or through famine caused by incompetent agricultural policies. Tibet’s cultural heritage was razed, and over 6,000 monasteries destroyed.
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Almost a quarter of the people are nomads, keeping herds of dzo (a cross between a yak and a cow) and living in tents. Their livestock provide products vital for everyday Tibetan life – yak butter is used in the ubiquitous butter tea and burnt in smoky chapel lamps. Tibet’s roads are few, and journeys are always time-consuming. The busiest route is the Friendship Highway between Lhasa and the Buddha’s all-seeing eyes on the Kumbum, Gyantse Nepalese border, which passes through Shigatse, Gyantse, and the Some monasteries that were ravaged dramatic Sakya Monastery. It is a long, during the Cultural Revolution are now bumpy but rewarding diversion from being repaired and returned to here to the Everest base camp, their former roles, but creating which offers great views of the or owning an image of the forbidding peak. Lhasa, too, Dalai Lama is still illegal. can be a good base for The ancient city of Lhasa exploring some of the other is the heart of Tibet, though isolated destinations. The Han Chinese immigrants now monasteries of Drepung, outnumber ethnic Tibetans. A A Tibetan mandala, a ritual Sera, Ganden, and Tsurphu spectacular railway line linking tantric diagram are easily accessible, while Golmud in Qinghai to Lhasa Lake Namtso and Samye are means that immigrant numbers farther away. Note that you will need to will continue to grow. However, the old quarter, home of the Potala Palace and the outline every place you wish to visit to Jokhang Temple, illustrates the determina- the tour operator who applies for your permit; if a place is not mentioned on tion with which Tibetans have held onto your permit, you may not be allowed in. their cultural traditions. A common sight here are the pious pilgrims, swinging prayer wheels and performing prostrations as they make kora – holy circuits – around the temple. Most of Tibet is desert, and the average altitude is over 13,000 ft (4,000 m), with temperatures well below freezing in winter. Many customs arose as response to life in this harsh environment. Sky burials, for example, in which the dead are left in the open for vultures, are practical in a land where firewood is scarce and the earth too hard to dig. Polyandry (the practice of having more than one husband at a time) and celibacy of the clergy were necessary Monks debating under a tree, a common sight at Sera Monastery forms of population control.
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Tibetan Buddhism The Mahayana school of Buddhism, which emphasizes compassion and self-sacrifice, came to Tibet from India in the 7th century. As it spread it took on many aspects of the native, shamanistic Bon religion, incorporating Bon rituals and deities. Like most Buddhists, Tibetans believe in reincarnation – consecutive lives that are better or worse depending on the karma, or merit, accrued in the previous life. For many Tibetans, Buddhism suffuses daily life so completely that the concept of a religion separate from day to day occurences, is completely foreign – there is no word for religion in Tibetan.
Monks and Monasteries At the height of monastic power there were some 6,000 monasteries in Tibet, and numerous Buddhist sects. Most families sent a son to become a monk and live a life of celibacy and meditation.
The Gelugpa or Yellow Hat sect was founded in the 1300s by the reformist Tsongkhapa. Dominant in Tibetan politics for centuries, the sect is led by the Dalai Lama and Panchen Lama (see p524, p548).
Chortens hold the ashes of spiritual teachers. The square base symbolizes earth; the pinnacle crown represents the ethereal sphere.
A soul can take one of two paths: the light path leads to auspicious rebirths until final liberation, the dark to poor rebirths and hell.
The Nyingma order is the oldest and most traditional of all the sects. It was founded during the 600s by Guru Rinpoche.
Bon – Tibet’s Pre-Buddhist Faith Bon, an animistic faith with emphasis on magic and spirits and the taming of demons, was Tibet’s native religious tradition before the arrival of Buddhism. Many Tibetan legends concern the taming of local gods and their conversion to the new faith. Much of today’s Buddhist iconography, rituals, and symbols, including prayer flags and sky burials – where the deceased is chopped to pieces and left on a mountainside for vultures – are Bon in origin. The faith has been revived by a hand-ful of Bon monasteries in Tibet. A 19th-century bronze figure of a Bon deity
At the axle the three evils, a snake (anger), a pig (ignorance), and a cockerel (desire), eternally chase each other’s tails.
Wheel Of Life The continuous cycle of existence and re-birth is represented by the Wheel of Life, clutched in the jaws of the Lord of Death, Yama. Achieving enlightenment is the only way to transcend the incessant turning of the wheel.
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Prayer and Ritual Worship in Tibet is replete with ritual objects and customs, many of which help with the accrual of merit. Koras, which are always followed clockwise, can be short circuits of holy sites or fully-fledged pilgrimages. The most auspicious kora is around Mount Kailash, considered the center of the universe; nirvana is guaranteed on the 108th circuit.
Spinning a prayer wheel clockwise sends a prayer written on coiled paper to heaven. The largest wheels contain thousands of prayers and are turned by crank or water power.
This ritual drum, made from the upper part of two skulls, has extra potency as a tool of prayer, because it is fashioned from human remains.
The outer ring illustrates the 12 factors that determine karma, including spiritual awareness (a blind man with a stick) and acts of volition (a potter molding pots). The inner wheel depicts the six realms into which beings can be reborn – gods, demigods, humans, animals, ghosts, and demons.
A worshiper spins a hand-held prayer wheel, rings a Tibetan bell called a drilbu and holds offerings of banknotes, all in aid of prayer.
Mani stones are carved with the Sanskrit mantra “om mani padme hum” (hail to the jewel in the lotus), a powerful Buddhist chant.
The Tibetan Pantheon An overwhelming plethora of deities, buddhas, and demons, many of them re-incarnations or evil aspects of each other, make up the Tibetan pantheon. Buddhas, “awakened ones,” have achieved enlightenment and reached nirvana. Bodhisattvas have postponed the pursuit of nirvana to help others achieve enlightenment. Jampalyang (Manjusri) represents knowledge and learning. He raises a sword of discriminating wisdom in his right hand.
Dharmapalas, defenders of the law, fight against the enemies of Buddhism. Originally demons, they were tamed by Guru Rinpoche, who bound them to the faith. Mahakala, one of the most common dharmapalas, is a wrathful manifestation of Chenresig.
Buddhist Deities Jowo Sakyamuni: the present Buddha Jampa (the Maitreya): the future Buddha Dipamkara (Marmedze): the past Buddha Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava): earthly manifestation of Buddha who spread Buddhism throughout Tibet Chenresig (Avalokitesvara): multi-armed bodhisattva of compassion Drolma (Tara): female aspect of compassion
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Nomadic Life The Chang Tang, a high plateau covering almost 70 percent of Tibet, is home to about a quarter of Tibetans, many of whom are nomads, or drokba, as the harsh, arid climate precludes farming. Their existence has barely been touched by modern life, and they still herd sheep, goats, and dzo (a cross between a yak and a domesticated cow), as they have for centuries. The animals are adapted to high altitude, having larger lungs and more hemoglobin than lowland animals. The nomad’s culture is also adapted to the harsh, arid climate.
Dried yoghurt is thought to protect the skin from the sun, but men don’t use it at all; women smear it on with a tuft of wool as a cosmetic.
These men enjoy cups of salted tea made with yak butter, a popular drink throughout Tibet. The salt combats dehydration and the fat gives muchneeded energy. They wear knee-length lokbars, with a black strip at the edge, the traditional dress for male nomads.
Traditionally, nomads wear belted robes made out of goatskin called lokbars that double as blankets at night. The fleece is worn on the inside, while the sturdy hide is exposed to wind and snow. The sleeves are extra long to keep hands warm. Women braid their hair and wear their wealth as jewelry. Coral, in particular, is highly valued.
Each household has a home tent, four-sided and made out of the coarse hairs found on a yak’s belly. Often, the tent is pitched in a pit and surrounded by stone windbreaks. Another cloth tent may be used for traveling.
The Herd Nomads rely totally on their herds for food, clothing, shelter, and sometimes income, so no part of any animal goes to waste. Goats, for example, provide milk for yoghurt, skins for clothing, wool for trading, and dung for fuel.
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A woman spreads yak dung over a windbreak wall. Once it has dried, she will scrape the dung off the wall and use it to fuel fires for cooking. Such tasks are strictly demarcated by gender; women do all the milking, churning, cooking, weaving, and fuel gathering, and so work harder than the men for most of the year.
A nomad pours yak butter from a churn for adding to strong, salty tea. The nomadic diet is basic; the staple is tsampa, roasted barley flour, which, often eaten dry and on its own, provides about half of a nomad’s calories. Goat’s milk yoghurt, radishes, and occasional meat stews supplement the diet.
The wool of the yaks, sheep, and goats in the nomad’s herd is woven using a loom, creating robust textiles for tent walls, blankets, and clothing. The incomes of many nomads have been augmented by the popularity of cashmere wool, which is the soft down on a goat’s underbelly.
Moving the Herds Nomads on the Chang Tang do not move continuously, nor do they move far – only around 10 to 40 miles (15 to 65 km), as the growing season is the same all over the plateau. Indeed, they try to minimize travel, declaring that it weakens livestock. Some families even build a house at their main encampment. In the fall, after the herds have eaten most of the vegetation at the main encampment and the growing season has ended, the nomads move their livestock to a secondary plain for grazing. Here livestock must forage for eight to nine months on dead vegetation. Later the nomads may move some of their herds farther up the hills. They then return to their original encampment.
A herder driving his yaks over a snowy mountain pass
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TIBET The enormous Tibetan plateau stretches across an awesome 463,323 sq miles (1,200,000 sq km). Its northern expanse is the Chang Tang, a vast, uninhabited high-altitude desert, dotted with enormous, brackish lakes. Nearly all the main sights and cities, as well as half of Tibet’s population of 2.8 million people, are concentrated in the less harsh southern region. The fertile valley created by the Yarlung Tsangpo river is bordered by the Himalayas along Tibet’s southern boundary. A mere 14 million years old, the Himalayas are the youngest mountains on earth, and also the highest, with over 70 peaks reaching elevations of 23,000 ft (7,000 m), including Mount Everest, the world’s highest at 29,029 ft (8,848 m). The spectacle of these snowclad peaks is perhaps what led to Tibet being called the “Land of Snows.” In reality, at an average altitude of over 13,000 ft (4,000 m), the thin air intensifies the sunshine making acclimatization and sun screen essential. Tibet’s eastern reaches are riddled with gorges carved out by three of China’s rivers – the mighty Yangzi,
the Salween, and the Mekong. Eastern Tibet, also known as Chamdo, is one of the few regions of Tibet where it rains frequently – the mountains of the southeast are cloaked in mysterious, unexplored forests. The wide, open spaces of northern and western Tibet are home to nomads who live a hardy pastoral existence. These wilderness areas are slowly shrinking as a result of the encroaching industrial world. However, despite rapid development and more than 50 years of Chinese occupation, Tibet still clings strongly to its cultural heritage, most visible in the revitalized monasteries. Tourism too, is a growing industry as more areas are opening up, allowing visitors tantalizing glimpses of a once-forbidden world.
Main prayer hall at Ganden Monastery, the first Gelugpa monastery in Tibet Namtso Lake, a popular tourist destination
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Lhasa
Lhasa City Center 1 Potala Palace
Tibet’s capital since the 7th century, Lhasa is an intoxicating introduction to Tibet. The Dalai Lamas’ splendid but poignantly empty seat, the Potala Palace, dominates the city from its site on top of Marpo Hill. The old Tibetan quarter to the east is Lhasa’s most interesting area; its centerpiece is the revered Jokhang Temple. Around it is the Barkhor, which retains its medieval character with smoky temples and cobbled alleys. Most Tibetans come here as pilgrims. The additions of concrete buildings and internet cafés show how the city has changed over recent decades.
2 Lukhang 3 Ramoche 4 Ani Tsankhung Nunnery 5 Jokhang Temple 6 Tibet Museum 7 Norbulingka
Key Street-by-Street area: see pp534–5
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Lhasa Airport 93 km (60 miles) Railway Station 4 km (2.5 miles)
Strikingly-colored mural at the Lukhang Temple Ramoche
See pp538–9.
Open 9am–5pm daily. &
Ching Drol Chi Ling Park.
Picturesquely located on an island in the lake behind the Potala, and cloaked by willows in summer, this temple is dedicated to the king of the water spirits (lu), who is depicted riding an elephant at the back of the main hall. The upper floors are decorated with striking 18th-century murals, representing the Buddhist Path to Enlightenment. Their great attention to detail and vivid stories offered visual guidance to the Dalai Lamas (see p524), who retired here for periods of spiritual retreat. Buddhist myths dominate the walls on the second floor, while the top-floor murals depict the esoteric yogic practises of the Indian tantric masters. They also illustrate episodes in the life of Pema Lingpa, ancestor of the 6th Dalai Lama who is credited with the Lukhang’s original design in the 17th century.
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The three-story Ramoche, just north of the Barkhor area (see pp534–5), is the sister temple to the Jokhang. It was built in the 7th century by Songtsen Gampo (see p524) to house the statue of Jowo Sakyamuni (Tibet’s most venerated Buddha image), brought by his Chinese wife Wencheng. According to legend, the threat of Chinese invasion after the king’s death compelled his family to hide the statue inside the Jokhang. It was replaced by a bronze
Prayer wheels at the Ramoche Temple
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
statue of an eight-year-old Sakyamuni (see pp36–7), part of the dowry of another of his wives, the Nepalese Princess Bhrikuti. The reconstructed temple features some huge prayer wheels, and is not as busy as the Jokhang. Next door is the Tsepak Lhakhang, a chapel with an image of Jampa, the Tibetan name for the Future Buddha (see p527).
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information * 560,000. n Tibet Tourism Bureau, (0891) 683 4315. ∑ xzta.gov.cn/yww Transport k Lhasa Airport at Gongkhar, 40 miles (65 km) from Lhasa, then bus. £ Lhasa Station. @ Main Bus Station, CAAC, Minibus Station.
The Summer Palace of the Dalai Lamas in the Norbulingka
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Ching Drol Chi Ling Park
People’s Park
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Minibus Station BARKHOR SQUARE
Jokhang Temple
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Ani Tsankhung Nunnery Open daily. &
Situated in the old Tibetan quarter, the Ani Tsankhung Nunnery is difficult to find. Wandering through the busy back alleys south of the Barkhor area in search of the place, can, however, be a wonderful experience. It is located in a yellow building on the street running parallel and north of Chingdol Dong Lu. The nunnery’s main hall contains a beautiful image of Chenresig, the multi-armed Bodhisattva of Compassion (see p527), and behind it lies a meditation chamber used by Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century. An air of quiet serenity pervades this quaint place, with its flower bushes and spotless compound. The nunnery’s main attraction is the warm welcome the curious nuns give to the visitors that come here.
Ani Tsankhung Nunnery
Ganden Monastery
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Tel (0891) 683 5244. Open Tue–Sun. Summer: 9:30am–5:30pm, winter: 10am–5:30pm. 8
This building presents a rather one-sided version of Tibetan history. If the propaganda is ignored, however, the over 30,000 relics are worth a visit. The most interesting displays are of rare Tibetan musical instruments and medical tools.
place for a leisurely afternoon visit. The path west from the entrance leads to the oldest palace, the Kelsang Potrang, used by the 8th to the 13th Dalai Lamas. Its main hall has a wealth of thangkas (see p540) and a throne. More diverting is the Summer Palace, just north of here, which was built for the present Dalai Lama in 1954. Its audience chamber holds bright murals depicting events from Tibetan history, from the tilling of the first field to the building of the great monasteries, including the Norbulingka. Next to the chamber are the Dalai Lama’s meditation room and bedroom, preserved exactly as he left them in 1959, when he escaped from this palace disguised as a Tibetan soldier and began his journey to India. The Assembly Hall where he held state has a golden throne and colorful murals depicting scenes from the Dalai Lama’s court, and episodes from the lives of Sakya Thukpa (Sakyamuni, the Historical Buddha) and Tsongkhapa, founder of the Gelugpa order of monks (see p524).
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Open 9:30am–6pm daily. &
Today a pleasantly scrubby park, the Norbulingka (Jewel Park) was once the summer palace of the Dalai Lamas. Founded by the 7th Dalai Lama in 1755 and expanded by his successors, the park contains several palaces, chapels, and buildings, and is a charming
Brightly painted doorway, Norbulingka
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Street-by-Street: The Barkhor Lhasa’s liveliest neighborhood, the fascinating Barkhor bustles with pilgrims, locals, and tourists eager to visit the Jokhang (see pp536–7) – by dusk the crowds are enormous. The pilgrimage circuit or kora that runs clockwise around the Jokhang is Tibet’s holiest and has been since the 7th century; market stalls have always lined the route to serve the pilgrims staying in the area. Many of the buildings in the Barkhor are ancient, some dating back to the 8th century. Despite the efforts of conservationists, some important buildings have been demolished and replaced with less attractive traditional architecture. Still, the Barkhor’s cobbled alleyways maintain a unique, archaic character.
Butter stall A stall selling yak butter for burning candles. Widely available, it gives Jokhang its distinctive smell.
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. Jokhang Temple The magnificent Jokhang, Tibet’s most important religious structure, sits at the heart of the Barkhor, and is the structure around which the rest of Lhasa developed.
Key Kora (holy route)
Prayer flags Two poles laden with flags stand outside the Jokhang. Vertical flag poles originated in the Amdo region, and represent battle flags that have become signs of peace. For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
Incense burner Juniper bushes are burnt in the four stone incense burners, or sangkang, which mark the route of the kora.
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Tromzikhang This 18th-century building once housed government officials such as the Ambans, representatives of the Qing emperor. Now a housing complex, all but the front was destroyed in the 1980s.
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. Meru Nyingba Originally founded in the 9th century, this monastery was enlarged in the 1800s to become the Lhasa residence of the Nechung Oracle (see p540). Beautifully restored in 1999, the building includes a wing of public housing.
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An ancient shrine dedicated to Palden Lhamo, the female protector of Lhasa, is surrounded by modern buildings. Labrang Nyingba was once home to the 5th Dalai Lama and Tsongkhapa at different times.
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Stalls along the kora Stalls selling all manner of intriguing bric-àbrac, from cowboy hats to prayer flags, line the entire pilgrimage route. The shops behind the stalls have better quality goods, including religious statuary, and carpets.
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Jokhang Temple The constant bustle, gaudy paraphernalia of worship, flickering butter lamps, and wreaths of heady incense make the Jokhang Temple one of Tibet’s most memorable experiences. The Jokhang was founded in AD 639 to house an image of the Buddha brought as dowry by the Nepali Princess Bhrikuti on her marriage to King Songtsen Gampo. Its location was chosen by another wife of the king, the Chinese consort Princess Wencheng. She declared that a giant female demon slumbered beneath the site and a temple must be built over her heart to subdue her. After the king’s death, Wencheng’s own dowry image of Jowo Sakyamuni was moved from the Ramoche (see p532) to the Jokhang, where it was thought to be safer from invading forces.
Prostrating pilgrim The Jokhang is Tibet’s most venerated site. Pilgrims bow and pray on the flagstones just outside the temple doors.
Courtyard This open courtyard, or dukhang, is the focus for ceremonies during festivals. The long altar holding hundreds of butter lamps marks the entrance to the interior.
KEY 1 This stele is inscribed with
the terms of the Sino-Tibetan treaty of AD 822, guaranteeing mutual respect for the borders of the two nations. 2 Just inside the entrance are the four Guardian Kings, the Chokyong, one for each cardinal direction. 3 The chapel of Songtsen Gampo, where the king is flanked by Wencheng on the right and Bhrikuti on the left. 4 The chapel of Tsongkhapa has an impressive and accurate image of the founder of the Gelugpa order. 5 The Jampa enshrined here is a copy of the one brought to Tibet by Princess Bhrikuti.
Roof ornament The spokes of the wheel of law represent the eight paths to enlightenment.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
Alternative entrance
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information The Barkhor, Lhasa. Open 8:30am–5:30pm daily. Visit from left to right clockwise. Inner Chapels Open 8am–noon. & _ Monlam, during the first lunar month.
. Chapel of Chenresig A large statue of Chenresig, the Bodhisattva of compassion, dominates this room. The doors and frames, crafted by Nepalis in the 7th century, are among the few remains of the original temple.
. Chapel of Jowo Sakyamuni Pilgrims crowd around this impassive statue of the 12-year-old Sakyamuni to make offerings and pray. Part of Princess Wencheng’s dowry, it is the most revered image in Tibet.
Prayer Wheels Pilgrims spin the wheels on a route that surrounds the inner chapel called the Nangkor, one of the three sacred circuits of Lhasa.
. Inner Sanctum This houses some of the Jokhang’s most important statues, including images of Guru Rinpoche, the Jampa and a thousand-armed Chenresig. The chapels lining the walls are visited clockwise, and there’s a line for the holiest, with monks at hand to enforce crowd discipline.
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Potala Palace Built on Lhasa’s highest point, Marpo Hill, the Potala Palace is the greatest monumental structure in Tibet. Thirteen stories high, with over a thousand rooms, it was once the residence of Tibet’s chief monk and leader, the Dalai Lama, and therefore the center for both spiritual and temporal power. These days, after the present Dalai Lama’s escape to India in 1959, it is a vast museum, serving as a reminder of Tibet’s rich and devoutly religious culture, although major political events and religious ceremonies are still held here. The first palace was built by Songtsen Gampo in 631, and this was merged into the larger building that stands today. There are two main sections – the White Palace, built in 1645 under orders from the 5th Dalai Lama, and the Red Palace, completed in 1693.
. Golden Roofs Seeming to float above the palace, the gilded roofs (actually copper) cover funerary chapels dedicated to previous Dalai Lamas.
. Chapel of the 13th Dalai Lama The bejeweled stupa of the 13th Dalai Lama, containing his mummified remains, is nearly 13 m (43 ft) high. KEY 1 The base is purely structural,
holding the palaces onto the steep hill. 2 Red Palace Courtyard 3 The Chapel of the 5th Dalai Lama contains a stupa gilded with around 6,600 lb (3,700 kg) of gold. 4 Maitreya Chapel 5 East Sunshine Apartment 6 The Eastern Courtyard 7 School of Religious Officials 8 Defensive Eastern Bastion 9 Thangka Storehouse
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
. 3D Mandala This intricate mandala of a palace, covered in precious metals and jewels, embodies aspects of the path to enlightenment.
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information Beijing Zhong Road, Lhasa. (0891) 683 4362. Open 8:30am– 5pm daily. & Book in advance. Tickets are timed, so be sure not to miss your spot. ^ in chapels, otherwise extra charges for photography. 8 Not suitable for those who find stairs a problem.
View from the Red Palace On a clear day the view over the valley and on to the mountains beyond is unequaled, although the newer parts of Lhasa are less impressive. White Palace The entrance to the main building has a triple stairway – the middle set of stairs is for the sole use of the Dalai Lama.
Heavenly King Murals The East Entrance has sumptuous images of the Four Heavenly Kings, Buddhist guardian figures. The Western Hall Located on the first floor of the Red Palace, the largest hall inside the Potala contains the holy throne of the 6th Dalai Lama.
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Exploring Around Lhasa Lhasa’s environs are dotted with the major monasteries of Drepung, Nechung, Sera, and Ganden. Easily accessible from Lhasa by bus, minibus, or hired vehicle, these are ideal for day-trips. Agencies in Lhasa hire out landcruisers along with a driver and guide. Vehicles can take up to five people – if looking to share the cost with others, check the bulletin boards in backpacker hotels. Make sure that any monasteries you plan to visit are listed on your travel permit.
before it and drink from a holy conch shell. The Tara Chapel next door contains wooden racks of scriptures and a statue of Prajnaparamita, the Mother of Buddhas and an aspect of the goddess Tara; the amulet on her lap contains a tooth said to belong to Tsongkhapa. Behind the Tsogchen, the little Manjusri Temple has a relief image of the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, Jampalyang, chiseled out of rock. The circuit continues north to the Ngagpa College, then to various colleges toward the southeast. Each building contains fine sculptures, though some might prefer to skip them and rest in the courtyard outside the Tsogchen. Those who are acclimatized can walk round the Drepung kora or pilgrim circuit, which passes rock paintings and the cave dwellings of nuns, and offers great views.
A typically gory tantric painting at Nechung Monastery
Nechung Monastery
Drepung Monastery
4 miles (7 km) W of Lhasa. Open 8am–4pm daily (chapels close between noon–3pm). &
5 miles (8 km) W of Lhasa. Open 8am–4pm daily (chapels close between noon–3pm). &
Drepung, meaning “rice heap,” was founded in 1416 by Jamyang Choje, a disciple of Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelugpa or Yellow Hat order of monks (see p524). In its heyday in the 17th-century, it was Tibet’s richest monastery, with four colleges and 10,000 monks; today there are around 500 to 600. The site is vast and the easiest way to get around is to follow the pilgrims, who circle the complex clockwise. From the entrance, turn left to the Ganden Palace, built in 1530 as a residence by the 2nd Dalai Lama. His rather plain apartments are upstairs on the seventh floor. The courtyard is usually busy with woodcarvers and block-printers creating prayer prints at great speed. Next is the Tsogchen or Main Assembly Hall, the most atmospheric building in the complex. About 180 pillars hold up the roof, and the room is draped with thangkas and hangings and
decorated with suits of armor. There is plenty of statuary, with the finest images in the Chapel of the Three Ages at the back of the Main Assembly Hall. At the hall’s entrance, stairs lead to the upper floor from where it is possible to see the massive head and shoulders of the Maitreya Buddha, the future Buddha or Jampa, rising up three stories. Pilgrims prostrate
A fifteen-minute walk southeast from Drepung, Nechung Monastery was the seat of the Tibetan Oracle. The Oracle not only predicted the future, but also protected the Buddha’s teachings and his followers. During consultations with the Dalai Lama, the Oracle, dressed in an elaborate and weighty
Thangkas and Mandalas Thangkas are religious paintings mounted on brocade that carry painted or embroidered images inside a colored border. Seen in temples, monasteries, and homes, they depict subjects as diverse as the lives of Buddhas, Tibetan theology and astrology, and mandalas or geometric representations of the cosmos. The Tashilunpo Monastery (see p548) displays gigantic thangkas during its festivals each year. Mandalas are often used as meditation aids by Buddhists and are based on a pattern of circles and squares around a central focal point. The Potala Palace in Lhasa (see pp538–9) has a splendid threedimensional mandala made of precious metal. Monks spend days creating mandalas of colored sand Mandala symbolizing that are swept away on completion to signify the transient nature of life. the universe
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
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main entrance, takes about an hour to complete and passes some beautiful rock reliefs. Ganden Monastery 28 miles (45 km) E of Lhasa. @
Shuttle from the square at Jokhang Temple. Open 8:50am–4pm daily. &
The farthest of the monasteries from Lhasa, Ganden is probably the one most worth visiting, with its scenic setting high on the Gokpori Ridge. To get a feel of the place, it is best to travel with the excited pilgrims on the bus that leaves from Lhasa’s Monks engaged in group debates at Sera Monastery Barkhor area every morning at costume, would go into a trance striking building in the complex 6:30am, returning at 2pm. The before making his pronounceis the Tsogchen located farthest monastery was founded in 1410 by Tsongkhapa, and its main ments, concluding the session up the hill. It features wallbuilding, the Serdung in a dead faint. Tibet’s last Oracle length thangkas, a throne fled to India in 1959, and now that was used by the 13th Lhakhang, has as its the monastery has only a few Dalai Lama, and images centerpiece a huge caretaker monks. Nechung’s of him and of Sakya gold and silver decor is startling as the courtyard Yeshe, the founder of chorten (stupa or outside is filled with gory Sera monastery. At funerary mound) paintings and demon torturers. the top of the path with Tsongkhapa’s Within the chapels, leering stands the open-air remains. However, sculptures of skulls loom out of debating courtyard. the buildings are Rock painting, the gloom. The airy Audience The monks assemble not its main appeal. Sera Monastery Chamber on the second floor is here for debates and Its highlight is the a welcome respite. Here, the their ritualized gestures – kora, which takes an hour to Dalai Lama used to consult the clapping hands and stamping walk. The circuit offers fine Oracle. The roof-level chapel is when a point is made – which views of the landscape and a dedicated to Padmasambhava, are fascinating to watch. The chorten or two that pilgrims the Tantric Buddha, also known Sera kora, or pilgrim circuit (and visitors if they wish) must as Guru Rinpoche. which heads west from the hop around on one leg. Sera Monastery
2 miles (4 km) N of Lhasa. Open 3–5pm daily. &
Founded in 1419 by disciples of the Gelugpa order, Sera Monastery was famous for its warrior monks, the Dob-dob. Once home to 5,000 monks, today there are less than onetenth that number, although the energetic renovation suggests that this may improve. Activity centers around its three colleges, visited in a clockwise circuit. Turn left from the main path to reach the first college, Sera Me, that was used for instruction in Buddhist basics. Sera Ngagpa, a little farther up the hill, was for tantric studies and Sera Je, next to it, was for teaching visiting monks. Each building has a dimly lit main hall and chapels toward the back that are full of sculptures. The largest and most
A domestic yak on the steep hills surrounding Ganden Monastery
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Samye Monastery
With its ordered design, wealth of religious treasures, and stunning location, Samye makes a deep impression on visitors. Tibet’s first monastery, Samye was founded in the 8th century during Trisong Detsen’s reign with the input of the great Buddhist teacher, Guru Rinpoche. Indian and Chinese scholars, invited to Samye to translate Buddhist scriptures into Tibetan, argued over the interpretation of doctrine, and so Trisong Detsen held a public debate to decide which form of Buddhism should be followed in Tibet. The Indian school won out and Chinese religious influence gradually waned. Today the monastery has a well-worn and eclectic feel, having been influenced by numerous sects over the years.
. Jowo Sakyamuni Chapel Samye’s most revered chapel centers on an image of Sakyamuni at age 38. He is flanked by two protector deities and ten Bodhisattvas.
. Chenresig Chapel This chapel centers on a stunning statue of Chenresig, with an eye painstakingly painted on each of its thousand hands.
Exploring the Ütse The Ütse is dimly lit, so take a flashlight to explore. The entrance leads directly into the Main Hall, with the Chenresig Chapel to the left and the Gongkhan Chapel to the right. The Jowo Sakyamuni Chapel is at the far end of the Main Hall. Numerous chapels and the Dalai Lama’s quarters are located on the second story. The third story has an open gallery lined with impressive murals.
KEY 1 Monks live in quarters on the
upper level of the outer wall. 2 The outer wall facing the Ütse is lined with prayer wheels and elaborate murals of Buddha. 3 The mural to the left of the entrance on the third story depicts the 5th Dalai Lama receiving the Mongol Khan Gushri and his retinue. 4 Gongkhan Chapel is packed with draped statues of fierce demons. A stuffed snake guards the exit. 5 The inscription on this stone stele (779 AD) declares that King Trisong Detsen has proclaimed Buddhism as the state religion.
View of Samye Monastery A superb view of the monastery can be had from the surrounding hills. From here it is easy to see that the monastery is laid out as a 3-D mandala (see p540). A herder and his flock alongside the Yamzhog Yumco, a sacred lake
6 The main hall houses images and statues of Guru Rinpoche and the Buddhist kings, Trisong Detsen and Songtsen Gampo.
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Guru Rinpoche An 8th-century monk-king from Swat in modern-day Pakistan, he is said to have subdued evil demons and established Buddhism in Tibet. Images of him carrying a thunderbolt are found throughout the complex.
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information 93 miles (150 km) SE of Lhasa. & ^ unless fee paid. _ Samye Festival, 15th day of fifth lunar month. Transport @ Travel to Samye must be arranged by a travel agency.
Quarters of the Dalai Lama This simple apartment, consisting of anteroom, bedroom and throne room, is full of relics, including Guru Rinpoche’s hair and walking stick.
Main entrance
Plan of Samye Complex Samye’s design echoes Tibetan Buddhism’s cosmology of the universe. Many of the 108 buildings have been destroyed, but the four ling chapels representing the island continents that surround Mount Sumeru (the Ütse) are still intact. Jampa Ling holds an impressive mural of the complex as it once was. The circular monastery wall is topped with 1,008 chortens that represent Chakravla, the ring of 1,008 mountains that surrounds the universe. 0 meters 0 yards
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Nomad tents, at the edge of the breathtaking Namtso Lake
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Tolung Valley. 45 miles (70 km) W of Lhasa. @ daily from Barkhor Square in Lhasa. Last bus back to Lhasa, 3pm. 4WD rented from Lhasa, 2–3 hrs. Open 9am–2pm daily. &
Situated at an altitude of 14,700 ft (4,480 m), this monastery was founded in the 12th century by the Karmapa or Black Hats order and is important as the home of the Karmapa Lama, the third most important religious leader in Tibet after the Dalai and Panchen Lamas (see p548). The present incumbent, the 17th Karmapa, fled to India in 1999 at the age of 14. His departure was significant as he was the only senior Tibetan Buddhist official recognized by both the Chinese
One of the many brightly-colored murals at Tsurphu Monastery
authorities and the Dalai Lama. The flood of daily pilgrims who came for blessings has now stopped and the monastery is rather quiet, though several hundred monks still reside here. The Karmapa’s throne, an object of great veneration, is in the audience chamber of the main hall. Here, a chorten (stupa or funerary mound) contains the relics of the 16th Karmapa, who died in Chicago in 1981. The kora from behind the monastery takes 3 hours, and provides magnificent views but beware – visitors must be acclimatized.
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Namtso Lake
125 miles (200 km) NW of Lhasa. 4WD rented from Lhasa, 2–3 day round-trip. Open daily. &
Beautiful Namtso Lake, with its classic Tibetan scenery of azure water beneath snowcapped peaks and grasslands dotted with herds of yak, has made it the most popular overnight jeep trip from Lhasa. About 45 miles (70 km) long and 19 miles (30 km) wide, it is the second largest saltwater lake in China after Qinghai Hu (see p503). The flat
The Eight Auspicious Symbols The Eight Auspicious Symbols represent the offerings that were presented to Sakyamuni Buddha, after he attained Enlightenment. Born as Siddhartha Gautama, prince of the kingdom of Kapilavastu, he renounced his princely life at the age of 30, and went in search of answers to the meaning of human suffering and existence. After years of penance, Siddhartha attained Enlightenment after meditating under a Bodhi tree in Bodh Gaya, India. Tibetans regard the symbols as protective motifs and use them to decorate flags and medallions as well as tiles in Buddhist temples, monasteries, and homes. The Conch Shell is blown to celebrate Sakyamuni’s Enlightenment; the Endless Knot represents harmony, and the never-ending passage of time; and the Wheel of Law symbolizes the Buddha’s eightfold path to Enlightenment. Other symbols include the Golden Fish, representing liberation from the Wheel of Life, and the Lotus Flower that represents purity.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
Conch Shell
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land around it offers good grazing, and is usually ringed with nomad encampments in summer. From November to May, the lake freezes over and is impossible to reach. Most people stay a night at Tashi Dor, a monastery on a lakeside hill. Bring a flashlight and a warm sleeping bag. The lake is situated at the incredible height of 15,500 ft (4,718 m), so visitors must be thoroughly acclimatized.
Highly decorated doorway to the main chapel, Kumbum, Gyantse 5
Gyantse
158 miles (255 km) SW of Lhasa. Minibus: alternate days from Lhasa bus station. 4WD from Lhasa. Travel Permits: required (see p523).
An attractive, if dusty, small town, Gyantse is the sixth largest town in Tibet, famous for its carpets and usually visited en route to Nepal (see p551). Often called “Heroic City,” it was originally capital of a 14th-century kingdom, and the remnants of its old Dzong, or fort watches over the town. Heavily bombarded during the British invasion in 1904, when it was captured at great loss of life to the Tibetans, it is today a dramatic ruin with a small museum. Here, Chinese propaganda describes the “heroic battle fought to defend the Chinese motherland,” although at that time China had no authority over Tibet. The Dzong offers good views from its roof. About 650 ft (200 m)
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The British Invasion of Tibet Alarmed by the growing influence of Tsarist Russia in the 19th century, Britain’s viceroy in India sent a diplomatic mission to Tibet in an effort to build links and facilitate the free flow of trade. When the mission failed, an expeditionary force – part of the Great Game (see p495) – of 1,000 soldiers and 10,000 porters, led by the dashing 26-year-old Colonel Francis Younghusband, invaded Tibet in 1903. As the force traveled inward, they killed almost 700 peasants, who were armed in part with magic charms to ward off bullets. Then, in the world’s highest battle, the British captured Gyantse Fort with only four casualties, while the Tibetans lost hundreds of men. The force Francis proceeded to Lhasa, where an agreement allowed Britain to set up trade missions. Younghusband
northwest is a compound housing the Kumbum and Pelkor Chode Monastery. The Kumbum, constructed around 1440, is a six-story and 115-ft (35-m) high chorten, honeycombed with chapels. It is built in an architectural style unique to Tibet and this is the finest extant example. A clockwise route leads up past chapels full of statuary and decorated with 14th-century murals – kumbum means “a hundred thousand images.” On the sixth floor, painted pairs of eyes, signifying the all-seeing eyes of Buddha, look out in each of the cardinal directions. The staircase in the eastern chapel leads into the chorten’s dome. There are views from the top. Built 20 years after Kumbum, the Pelkor
Chode Monastery was designed for all the local Buddhist sects to use; its Assembly Hall has two thrones, one for the Dalai Lama and one for the Sakya Lama. The main chapel at the back of the hall has a statue of Sakyamuni, the Historical Buddha, and some impressive wooden roof decorations. At the top, the Shalyekhang Chapel has some fine mandalas (see p540). On the way to Gyantse it is worth taking a detour to see beautiful Yamdrok Lake, one of the four holy Tibetan lakes. + Dzong
Open Mon–Sat. & Kumbum & Pelkor Chode Monastery Open 8:30am–5:30pm Mon–Sat (closed noon–3pm). &
Kumbum, Gyantse, a three-dimensional mandala
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Shigatse & Tashilunpo
Capital of the Tsang region, Shigatse sits at an elevation of 12,800 ft (3,900 m). To its north, the Drolma Ridge rises steeply, topped by the ruins of the ancient Dzong, once home to the kings of Tsang. Shigatse holds a powerful position in Tibet, and was the capital for a spell during the early 17th century. After Lhasa regained its status, Shigatse continued to hold sway as the home of the Panchen Lama, Tibet’s second most important religious ruler, whose seat is located at Tashilunpo Monastery, the town’s grandest sight. Worth exploring for a day or two, Shigatse is the most comfortable place in Tibet after Lhasa, with decent food and accommodations on offer.
A group of carpet makers tying richly colored wool into intricate knots
market for a Tibetan carpet. The process is sufficiently interesting to warrant a visit even if you have no intention of buying. A project initiated by the 10th Panchen Lama in 1987, the business is part-owned by the monastery. Shipping can be arranged on the premises.
( Gang Gyen Carpet Factory
P Dzong
9 Zhu Feng Lu. Tel (0892) 882 6192. Open 9am–1pm & 3–7pm Mon–Sat. ∑ tibetgang-gyencarpet.com
The leaders of Tsang once ruled from the mighty fortress of Shigatse Dzong, in the north of town, built in the 14th century by Karma Phuntso Namgyel, a powerful Tsang king. It once resembled a small Potala but was destroyed by the Chinese
This factory, where local women produce beautiful carpets, first skeining the wool then weaving it, is the place to come if you are in the
The 11th Panchen Lama The death of the 10th Panchen Lama in 1989 brought Tibet’s leaders and the Chinese government into conflict over succession. Like the seat of the Dalai Lama, the Panchen Lama’s position is passed on through reincarnation. Traditionally, upon the death of either of these leaders, top monks scour the land hoping to identify the new incarnate. In 1995, after an extensive search, the Dalai Lama named a six-year-old boy, Gedhun Choeki Nyima, as the 11th Panchen Lama. The chosen boy and his family soon disappeared and have not been seen since. Keen to handpick the next Dalai Lama’s teacher, the Chinese authorities sanctioned a clandestine ceremony which ordained Gyancain Norbu as the “official Panchen Lama” and immediately whisked him off to Beijing. Young Gyancain Norbu, the China-sanctioned 11th Panchen Lama For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
in 1959 during the Tibetan uprising, and rebuilt on a smaller scale in 2007. You can walk around the Dzong but you can’t enter it. A kora or holy route, marked by prayer flags and mani stones, leads here from the west side of Tashilunpo. Keep your distance from the packs of stray dogs. ( Tibetan Market
At the Dzong’s southern base on Tomzigang Lu stands a small Tibetan market selling souvenirs, such as prayer wheels and incense, and a few Tibetan necessities – medicine, legs of lamb, and large knives. Just to the west of the market is an old traditionally Tibetan neighborhood of narrow lanes and tall whitewashed walls.
Stall selling religious regalia at the Tibetan Market
Tashilunpo Monastery
Tel (0892) 882 2114. Open Summer: 9am–12:30pm & 4–6pm Mon–Sat; Winter: 10am–noon & 3–6pm Mon–Sat. &
A huge monastic compound of golden-roofed venerable buildings and cobbled lanes, Tashilunpo would take several days to explore fully. It was founded in 1447 by Genden Drup, retrospectively titled the 1st Dalai Lama. It grew suddenly important in 1642, when the 5th Dalai Lama declared his teacher, the monastery’s abbot, to be a reincarnation of the Amithaba Buddha and the fourth reincarnation of the Panchen Lama, or great teacher. Ever since it has been the seat of the Panchen Lamas, who are second in authority to the Dalai Lama.
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VISITORS’ CHECKLIST Practical Information 172 miles (278 km) W of Lhasa. * 92,000. @ Arrange travel to Shigatse through a travel agency in Lhasa. _ Tashilunpo: 2nd week of 5th lunar month.
Majestic Tashilunpo Monastery with Drolma Ridge rising behind
Continue west for the Chapel Head up the main path to the of Jampa, which holds the back of the compound for the monastery’s most impressive most impressive sights. The artifact, an 85-ft (26-m) golden gold and silver chorten straight image of Jampa, the future ahead holds the remains of Buddha, made in 1914. It took the 4th Panchen Lama. almost a thousand Built in 1662, it was the artisans four years to only funeral chorten in complete using more the monastery to than 600 pounds escape destruction (275 kg) of gold. during the Cultural The complex of Revolution. The buildings on the east larger, jewel studded side is the Kelsang. chorten just to the The Wheel of Law, It centers around west holds the an auspicious symbol a courtyard where remains of the monks can be 10th Panchen Lama, observed praying, debating, who died in 1989; it was and relaxing. The 15th-century constructed in 1994 at a cost Assembly Hall on the west side of eight million US dollars.
holds the imposing throne of the Panchen Lamas. Those with energy left can follow the monastery kora, which takes about an hour. It runs clockwise around the outside of the walls before heading up to the Dzong. You’ll pass colorful rock reliefs, some of Guru Rinpoche, and the huge white wall where a thangka of Buddha is exposed to the sun during the three-day long Tashilunpo Festival. P Summer Palace of the
Panchen Lamas Zhade Dong Lu. Open 9:30am–noon & 4–6pm daily. &
South of Tashilunpo Monastery is the Panchen Lamas’ summer palace, constructed in 1954. There are some excellent wall paintings inside the complex, and the gardens are a pleasant place to stroll.
Shigatse City Center 1 Gang Gyen Carpet Factory 2 Dzong 3 Tibetan Market
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lamas. Sakya houses are traditionally painted gray with red and white vertical stripes; the colors are supposed to symbolize the Bodhisattvas Channa Dorje, Jampalyang, and Chenresig respectively.
Sakya Monastery
250 miles (402 km) SW of Lhasa. Travel must be arranged by a travel agency in Lhasa. Open 9am–6:30pm Mon–Sat. & fee. Travel Permit required (see p523).
The town of Sakya is dominated by the huge, fortress-like monastery, that looms up from the gray plains. Sakya, or “Gray Soil” in Tibetan, was the capital of all Tibet in the 13th century, when monks of the Sakyapa order formed an extraordinary alliance with the Mongols. In 1247, the head of the Sakyapa order, Sakya Pandita, traveled to Mongolia and made a pact, whereby the Mongols were the overlords, while the Sakya monks ruled as their regents – the first time a lama was also head of state. His nephew, Phagpa, later became the spiritual guide to the conqueror of China, Kublai Khan. In 1354, Mongol power waned, and in-fighting among the religious sects led to a decline in Sakya’s influence. Originally, there were two monasteries on either side of the Trum River, but the northern one was destroyed during the Cultural Revolution (see pp70– 71). The mid-13th century Southern Monastery, built by Phagpa, is a typical Mongol structure, with thick walls and watchtowers. The entrance leads to a courtyard with an enormous prayer pole in the center. To the left is the Puntsok
8 Everest Base Camp Rongphu: 336 miles (610 km) SW of Lhasa. 4WD from Lhasa, 2 days; must be arranged through a travel agency in Lhasa. Travel Permits required (see p523).
Detail from wall painting at Sakya Monastery Palace, the traditional home of one of the two head lamas, who now lives overseas. Apart from the statue-filled chapel, its rooms are mainly empty. Moving clockwise, the next chapel, the Purkhang, holds images of Jowo Sakyamuni and Jampalyang among others, while wall murals depict tantric deities. The Main Assembly Hall has 40 huge wooden pillars, one of which was said to have been gifted by Kublai Khan, while another is said to have come from India on the back of a tiger. The elaborately decorated hall has rich brocades, statues, and butter lamps and holds thousands of religious texts (sutras). The fine central Buddha image enshrines the remains of Phagpa. The chapel to the north has 11 silver chortens containing the remains of previous Sakya
Houses at Sakya Village, painted gray with red and white stripes For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp558–63 and pp572–85
Despite the spine-jarring, fourhour trip off the Friendship Highway – that connects Lhasa to the Nepal border at Zhangmu – the craggy lunar landscape en route to Everest is enchanting. Rongphu is a good place for a stop and at 16,500 ft (4,980 m) is the highest monastery in the world. Although it has some good murals, the interior is not as riveting as its stunning location in front of Everest’s forbidding north face in the Rongphu Valley. The monastery was founded in 1902 on a site that had been used by nuns as a meditation retreat for centuries, and is now home to some 30 monks. Everest Base Camp lies 5 miles (8 km) to the south. The trip across the glacial plain takes about 15 minutes by vehicle or two hours on foot. It is just a jumble of tents, with a makeshift tea-house and the world’s highest post box, but the views of Mount Everest, the world’s highest mountain at a staggering 29,029 ft (8,848 m), are absolutely unforgettable. The entire Rongphu and Everest area has been designated a nature reserve that covers 13,100 sq miles (34,000 sq km), and borders three national parks in Nepal. There is a spectacular viewpoint at the Pangla Pass, from which you can see Everest (known as Chomolungma in Tibetan), Cho Oyo, Lhotse, Makalu, and Gyachung. Most people try to
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Everest Base Camp, with magnificent views of the world’s highest mountain
arrive at this pass either to see the sun rise or the sun set over the Himalayas. The rarefied air at this altitude (17,000 ft/5,150 m) makes any strenuous activity impossible, however, so unless visitors are properly acclimatized, it is best to go all the way back to the Friendship Highway and carry on to the town of Shegar to spend the night. 9
The Nepal Border
Zhangmu: Nepal border. 466 miles (750 km) SW of Lhasa. Taxi 4WD from Lhasa, 2 days (direct), or 5–6 days (via Gyantse, Shigatse & Everest Base Camp). Travel must be arranged through a travel agency in Lhasa. Travel Permit for all places (between Shigatse and border) required (see p523).
The Friendship Highway connecting Lhasa to the Nepal border is one of Tibet’s most popular link routes. From the Rongphu turn-off along the highway, it is another 31 miles (50 km) west to Tingri, on what is a surprisingly good road. This is a small, traditional Tibetan town with good views of the Everest range. After climbing for 56 miles (90 km) the road begins a steep, winding descent through
mountains that are densely wooded; the change of scenery is startling after the desert landscape of the high, arid plateau. It is only another 20 miles (33 km) to the border town of Zhangmu, which is relatively low and oxygen-rich at 7,200 ft (2,200 m). Although much of Zhangmu consists of slightly dilapidated shacks, perched above one another on
the mountainside, this frontier town has a gaudy vibrance. Border formalities to get into Nepal are fairly cursory. The Nepalese immigration post, 6 miles (10 km) farther down at Kodari, will issue a singleentry visa, though visitors have to pay in US dollars and provide a passport photo. From here, it is a four-hour trip to Kathmandu.
The Friendship Highway The 466-mile (750-km) route between Lhasa and the Nepal border, known as the Friendship Highway, is probably the most popular journey for visitors to Tibet and includes some important sightseeing detours along the way. Many agencies in Lhasa and in Kathmandu in Nepal can arrange the trip, sort out the necessary permits, and provide an appropriate four-wheel drive vehicle, a driver, and guide. Depending on the itinerary, which usually includes the towns of Shigatse and Gyantse, the trip can take up to a week. Visitors must ensure that the contract specifies exactly what they want and what they are paying for.
Friendship Highway, winding across the plateau to Nepal
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS Where to Stay
554–563
Where to Eat & Drink
564–585
Shops & Markets
586–589
Entertainment
590–591
Sports & Specialist Holidays
592–595
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TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY An abundance of accommodation options is available in China for most of the year. Fourand five-star hotels, increasingly run by either major international chains or expanding Chinese hotel companies, are plentiful in major cities and tourist destinations. In other cities and towns, there are many mid-range hotels and budget options to choose from. Ideally, rooms should be booked in advance,
Hotel Chains Visitors in search of international standards of comfort and service should stick either to five-star hotels managed by familiar Western chains or to the luxury Asian brands. Starwood hotels (such as Sheraton, W, and Westin) are well represented in China. Other international chains – such as Accor, Hilton, Hyatt, Kempinski, Ritz-Carlton, Shangri-La, and Marriott – all have hotels in the major cities; check their websites for details. Chinese-run hotels do their best to emulate Western operations. The published rack rates of Chinese fourand five-star hotels are indeed comparable, but the level of service does not match their Western counterparts just yet. Standards are fast improving, however, and there is a willingness to please, especially away from the main tourist areas. The Chinese star system of grading hotels is meaningless. Although authorities have devised a checklist of facilities that hotels must provide within each grade, there is no proper system of monitoring the
but if you have not done so, do not panic, unless you are traveling during one of the high seasons – the first week of May and October, and Chinese New Year (Spring Festival). Although you may want to book some of your stay (the first few nights, for example, to ease your arrival), it is perfectly feasible to turn up at your hotel of choice, bargain cheerfully, and book yourself a room at a sizable discount.
standard of these services. Therefore, no matter how poorly these facilities may be maintained, no star is ever lost once it is given. Rather than be involved in this system, some international hotels choose to go starless. These establishments can be far superior to Chinese-run properties. As a general rule for Chinese-run hotels, the newer the hotel, the better the facilities. Visit www.ctrip.com and www.elong.com to find the best deals, check out the location and prices of hotels, and make online bookings.
Budget Hotels & Other Types of Accommodations Budget travelers will find a choice of inexpensive options all across the mainland and in Hong Kong. Away from the larger cities, dormitory beds for around ¥40 are easily available. Youth hostels with spotless facilities and beds costing about ¥50 are beginning to open up in some metropolises. Many universities will also rent out vacant rooms.
Palatial lobby of Shangri-La Hotel in Suzhou (see p560) A selection of ornate and colorful traditional prayer wheels
Spacious and comfortable suite at Amanfayun in Hangzhou (see p560)
At the upper end of the budget spectrum, the Motel 168 and Jinjiang Inn chains offer excellent rooms with free Internet, private bathroom, and TV at affordable rates. Home Inns and Green Tree Inns are good budget brands with free Internet. Rooms at all these chains can be booked online. Camping is not an option in China. Pitching a tent, except in the most far-flung places, is certain to attract attention, and you are likely to get a visit from the police. Staying in a ger, the round homes of the nomadic Mongols and Kazakhs, can be arranged in Inner Mongolia and Xinjiang. However, these overnight camps are targeted at tourists, so it may not be an authentic experience. Some monasteries and lamaseries have pilgrims’ inns where you are welcome to stay for a minimal fee, but conditions can be very austere. On holy mountains, such as Emei Shan, you will find many temples that offer basic but atmospheric accommodations for travelers.
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rooms,” with a single bed in a relatively small space for a cheaper price. However, rooms described as “single” usually refer to those with a double bed, and can be occupied by two people, although they usually cost slightly less than twin-bed rooms of the same size. The display of certain credit card symbols at hotels does not guarantee that the international versions of these cards will be accepted. It is therefore important to confirm that your card will be accepted before checking in. Most of the uppertier hotels do take credit cards; in smaller establishments, be prepared to pay in renminbi.
Costs Harbor views from Upper House in Hong Kong (see p561)
Choosing a Hotel The newest hotels are usually the best, as most owners seem to resist carrying out repairs unless they are absolutely necessary. New hotels are constantly springing up in various parts of the country in the hope of benefiting from the growth in domestic tourism. Some are one-off operations started by private businesses, but most belong to Chinese chains building pan-China hotel portfolios. Hotels run by the police, banks, tobacco companies, post offices, and other businesses are aspiring to compete with long-standing establishments run by local governments. Any hotel with a decent website or the word “business“ in the title is likely to be relatively new and offer good services.
their rates down drastically, especially if the room in question would otherwise go empty. Discounts of 10 to 20 percent are standard, 30 to 40 percent very common, and 50 percent not unusual. Try for larger discounts, especially in locations with seasonal demand. Booking online in advance via sites such as ctrip.com, elong. com, or hostelworld.com is another good way to obtain a bargain. This is also true of most foreign-run hotels. The introduction of double beds of various sizes in Chineserun hotels (rather than the standard twin single beds) has led to some confusion. Older hotels and a few newer ones do indeed have regular “single
The prices quoted by major international hotels do not include service charges or local bed taxes, although the latter are rarely levied. Many Chineserun upper-end hotels have begun to levy service charges between 5 and 15 percent. Foreign visitors should check their bills carefully before paying. Note that minibar contents are as overpriced in China as anywhere else. Costs for phone calls from even modest hotels are usually computer-monitored, and a service charge will be added on top of the actual cost of the call. Most Chinese-run, and many foreign-owned, hotels in China offer free Wi-Fi. Check before booking, and if the hotel you choose charges for Internet use, pick somewhere down the street that doesn’t.
Booking a Hotel In China, the real price of a hotel room is what the customer is willing to pay. Locals always ask for a discount, and you should too. The days of official surcharges for non-Chinese customers are long gone. Although many hotels still quote higher prices to foreign visitors, they are amenable to hard bargaining and will bring
Traditionally designed courtyard at The Linden Centre in Dali (see p562)
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TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Seasonal Demand While rooms are readily available in China for most of the year, the busiest travel periods are during the weeklong national holidays, principally around the Chinese New Year (January or February) and October 1. Unlike the West, very few people in China have discretionary holidays, so almost everyone in the country seems to be traveling at the same time. Another time to avoid traveling is during the Spring Festival, when accommodation is almost impossible to find. The exact dates are not fixed far in advance, but as soon as they are declared transport and accommodation costs shoot up. Spring and autumn, with their milder temperatures and lower humidity, are more popular seasons for traveling than summer or winter, which are both extreme. In summer, some of the cooler destinations within reasonable reach of large cities – such as the island of Putuo Shan, served by short flights and ferries from Shanghai – can be very crowded and expensive during weekends, but very cheap during the week. Other events that affect transport costs and room availability are the festivals of ethnic minorities, particularly in the southwest, and trade events such as the biannual fair in Guangzhou.
Richly furnished lobby at the JIA Shanghai hotel in Shanghai (see p559)
General Observations & Precautions Check-out time is usually noon, but visitors can pay half the nightly rate to keep the room until 6pm. Chinese regulations require all non-residents to be out of hotel rooms by 11pm, but this is widely ignored. Although foreign-exchange facilities are usually open seven days a week at most of the better hotels, these facilities can be used only by registered guests. Many hotels, including some establishments with foreign management, advertise facilities such as nightclubs, hair and beauty salons, and karaoke bars, but these are often fronts for prostitution. Be wary of unexpected telephone calls to your room offering anmo, or massage. It is best to disconnect your phone if you wish to avoid being solicited.
Though it is simpler to arrange transport services through your hotel, be aware that this might cost more than it would if you found a taxi on your own. It is wiser to simply walk onto the street and flag down a passing vehicle. Taxis hovering near the doors of hotels in popular tourist destinations should be approached with caution. When surveying hotels, travelers must remember that the pictures they see on brochures and websites almost always date to the time of opening, and are unlikely to represent the current condition of the rooms. You should also not be swayed by the promise of saunas, fitness centers, swimming pools, or Jacuzzis, especially in Chinese-run hotels in remote areas, as the presence of these in brochures does not indicate that they are still working or fit for use. Most importantly, the rates mentioned are not fixed.
Facilities for Children & the Disabled
The imposing façade of Shangri-La Hotel in Xian (see p559)
Children are welcome everywhere in China, although special facilities for them in hotels are rare. Most hotels allow children under 12 years to stay with their parents free of charge. Most hotels will also add an extra bed for an older child for a nominal (and usually negotiable) fee. Groups of four, including two children over 12, can sometimes share a room, though parents may be required to pay for two rooms. However, many older,
W H E R E TO S TAY
Chinese-run hotels have threeand four-bed rooms that are ideal for families. In general, China is not an easy destination for the disabled. Only the newest and best international hotels make any serious effort to provide wheelchair access or fully adapted rooms. Most places have standard suites with inconveniently placed light switches, although some have wider bathroom doors to allow wheelchairs. However, most hotels have elevators, so booking a groundfloor room is not necessary.
Tipping As tipping is not very common in China, hotel staff don’t usually expect to be tipped. The international hotels will be charging you a 5 to 15 percent
service charge on top of your bill in any case. Some Chinese hotels have started to add these charges as well.
Recommended Hotels The hotels on pages 558–63 cover a huge variety of accommodation options from simple hostels and budget hotels to historic establishments and luxury retreats. They are listed by price within each area. Luxury hotels number among the most upscale options in town, with high standards of rooms and service par for the course. China’s boutique hotel industry is booming of late, and this category can include everything from slick and trendy operations in a city, to rural homestays with just a few rooms. There are many historic
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options for visitors to choose from, from Art Deco gems in Shanghai to one of China’s first hotels to cater to foreigners in Harbin. Those who enjoy the flexibility of a self-catered stay should look for properties in the apartment category. China has many budget options where rooms are neat and clean and there are also numerous hostels where guests can stay in communal dormitories. Hotels that fall under the Business category feature amenities from Wi-Fi and business centers to meeting rooms with audio and visual technology. Finally, hotels featured as DK Choice are special establishments that are highly recommended for an exceptional quality, be it a great spa, beautifully designed rooms, or an ecologically sustainable outlook.
Classy interiors at the luxurious Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund hotel in Shanghai (see p560)
DIRECTORY Hotel Chains Accor Tel 1-800 221 4542 (US). Tel 0871 663 0624 (UK). ∑ accorhotels.com
Hilton Tel 1-800 445 8667 (US). Tel 08705 909 090 (UK). ∑ hilton.com
Hyatt
Kempinski
Shangri-La
Home Inns
Tel 1-800 426 3135 (US).
Tel 1-866 565 5050 (US).
∑ homeinns.com
Tel 020 7198 8405 (UK).
Tel 0800 028 3337 (UK).
Jinjiang Inn
∑ kempinski.com
∑ shangri-la.com
Tel 400 820 9999. ∑ jinjianginns.com
Marriott Tel 1-888 236 2427 (US). Tel 0800 1927 1927 (UK). ∑ marriott.com
Ritz-Carlton
Starwood (Sheraton, W, Westin)
Motel 168
Tel 1-800 80 1855 (US).
Tel 400 820 7168. ∑ motel168.com
Tel 020 3564 6335 (UK). ∑ starwood.com
Booking a Hotel
Budget Hotels
Useful websites
Tel 1-800 233 1234 (US).
Tel 1-800 542 8680 (US).
Tel 0845 888 1234 (UK).
Tel 0800 2413 3333 (UK).
Green Tree Inns
∑ elong.com
∑ hyatt.com
∑ ritzcarlton.com
∑ 998.com
∑ hostelworld.com
∑ ctrip.com
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TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Where to Stay Beijing Downtown Backpackers ¥ Hostel Map 2 D3 85 Nanluoguxiang, Chaoyang district Tel (010) 8400 2429 ∑ backpackingchina.com
Cheerful place close to the city’s most funky hutong (alleyway). Great for visitors on a tight budget. Hotel G Boutique 7 Workers Stadium West Road, Chaoyang district Tel (010) 6552 3600
¥¥
∑ hotel-g.com
Glam, glitzy and gorgeous by design, with in-room Wi-Fi. Popular bar and fusion restaurant. The Red Capital Residence ¥¥ Boutique Map 2 E4 9 Dongsi Liutiao, Dong Cheng district Tel (010) 8403 5308 ∑ redcapitalclub.com.cn
An exotic five-room guesthouse decked with antique furniture and Communist Party memorabilia. The Schoolhouse ¥¥ Boutique Mutianyu Town, Huairou district Tel (010) 6162 6505 ∑ theschoolhouseatmutianyu.com
Stay at the eco-resort or hire a well-appointed village home with amazing views of the Great Wall. China World Summit Wing ¥¥¥ Luxury Map 4 F1 1 Jianguomenwai Avenue, Chaoyang district Tel (010) 6505 2299 ∑ shangri-la.com
Rooms high up in the China World Trade Center have ultramodern interiors and great views.
DK Choice
Hotel de Cour SL ¥¥¥ Boutique 70 Yan Yue Hutong, Dongcheng district Tel (010) 6512 8020 ∑ hotelcotecourbj.com
Elegant rooms combine modern amenities with antique surrounds. Hotel Eclat ¥¥¥ Luxury 9 Dongdaqiao Jie, Chaoyang district Tel (010) 8561 2888 ∑ eclathotels.com/beijing
This slightly offbeat luxury hotel boasts a superb art collection. Park Hyatt Luxury 2 Jianguomen Outer St, Chaoyang district Tel (010) 8567 1234
¥¥¥
∑ beijing.park.hyatt.com
Rooms at this 63-story hotel boast marble baths. Superlative service. The Aman at the Summer Palace ¥¥¥ Luxury 1 Gongmenqian St, Summer Palace, Haidian district Tel (010) 5987 9999 ∑ amanresorts.com
Stay in century-old pavilions at this retreat next to the Summer Palace. The Opposite House ¥¥¥ Boutique 1 Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang district Tel (010) 6417 6688 ∑ theoppositehouse.com
A hotel, club, and restaurant with a stunning green glass exterior. The Peninsula Beijing ¥¥¥ Luxury Map 2 E5 8 Jinyu Hutong, Dong Cheng district Tel (010) 8516 2888 ∑ beijing.peninsula.com
Beijing‘s grand dame of style and service, with a highly rated spa.
Price Guide Prices are based on one night’s stay in high season for a standard double room, inclusive of service charges and taxes. ¥ ¥¥ ¥¥¥
under ¥400 ¥400 to ¥1,000 over ¥1,000
Hebei, Tianjin & Shanxi BEIDAIHE: Beidaihe Hotel ¥ Rooms with a view 316 Lianfeng Rd Tel (0335) 4680 555 A large hotel with great ocean views. There are few English speakers here, so guests should be prepared to use a phrasebook. CHENGDE: Mountain Resort Hotel ¥ Budget 11 Lizhengmen Tel (0314) 2091 188 Clean, basic rooms in a wellknown hotel at a great location, opposite the main entrance to the Mountain Resort. DATONG: Garden Hotel Business 59 Danan Street Tel (0352) 5865 888
¥
∑ datonghotels.com
Well located and geared for foreigners, this hotel wins plaudits for service. It also runs a number of tours to nearby attractions. TAIYUAN: Chateau Star River Taiyuan Luxury 2 Xinghe West Rd Tel (0351) 7698 866
¥¥
∑ chateaustarriver.com
Beautiful hotel with a pool. NonChinese speakers may struggle to make themselves understood.
Duge Courtyard Boutique Hotel ¥¥¥ Luxury Map 2 D3 26 Qianyuanensi Hutong, Nanluoguxiang, Chaoyang district Tel (010) 6406 0686 ∑ dugecourtyard.com
This luxurious hideaway was part-created by jeweler and interior designer Jehanne de Biolley – no surprise given the hotel‘s precious gem-like color scheme. Each one of the 10 rooms is unique, and the stunning Imperial Suite, which is decorated with burnished gold, will make guests feel like royalty. Opulent suite at the China World Summit Wing in Beijing
W H E R E TO S TAY
TIANJIN: St Regis Tianjin Luxury 158 Zhangzizhong Rd Tel (022) 5830 9999
Shaanxi
Plush hotel along the picturesque River Hai offering flawless service. TIANJIN: Tangla Hotel Tianjin ¥¥ Luxury 9F-A, Huanmao Business Centre, No. 219 Nanjing Road Tel (022) 2321 5888 ∑ tanglahotels.com
XI’AN: Xiangzimen International Youth Hostel Boutique 16 Xiangzimiao Jie Tel (029) 6286 7888
¥
∑ yhachina.com
A building with Chinese-style decor near the city wall’s south gate and street food markets. XI’AN: Citadines Central Xi’an ¥¥ Apartments 36 Zhubashi Lu Tel (029) 8576 1188
Spacious, well-furnished rooms with spectacular city views.
∑ citadines.com
¥¥
∑ starwoodhotels.com
This restored 1863 hotel evokes a bygone era. Ask for a room in the old wing for a taste of antiquity.
Spacious, clean apartments with kitchenettes and wellequipped rooms. Great location. XI’AN: Sofitel Xi’an on Renmin Square Luxury 319 Dong Xin Street Tel (029) 8792 8888
¥¥
¥¥
∑ sofitel.com/asia
LUOYANG: Peony Hotel Budget 15 Zhongzhou West Lu Tel (0379) 6558 8123
¥
∑ peonyhotel.net
Staid, reliable option with Englishspeaking staff. Breakfast included. QINGDAO: Huiquan Dynasty Hotel Rooms with a view 6 Nanhai Lu Tel (0532) 8299 988
¥
∑ hqdynasty.com
Chic hotel opposite the beach. Ask for a room with a sea view. QINGDAO: Hyatt Regency Rooms with a view 88 Donghai East Lu Tel (0532) 8612 1234
¥¥
¥¥¥
This beautiful hotel is within walking distance of the local attractions. Friendly staff, modern rooms, and a huge gym. XI’AN: Sheraton Xi’an Business 262 Fenghao Dong Lu Tel (029) 8426 1888
¥¥¥
¥¥
∑ shangri-la.com
Enjoy the full array of the facilities at this deluxe hotel close to stores, restaurants, and the coast.
Philippe Starck-design in a vibrant location. Evening cocktails and laundry are included in the rates. Les Suites Orient Boutique 1 Jinling Dong Lu Tel (021) 6320 0088
¥¥¥
∑ lessuitesorient.com
This smart hotel fuses Art Deco design with traditional Oriental style. Iconic views over the river.
∑ sheratonhotels.com
Business-friendly hotel with large rooms featuring walk-in showers. Praise-worthy breakfasts.
DK Choice
Shanghai
Mansion Hotel Historic 82 Xinle Lu, Xuhui district Tel (021) 5403 9888
¥¥¥
∑ chinamansionhotel.com
Magnolia B&B 36 Yanqing Lu, Xuhui district Tel (138) 1794 0848
¥¥
Five rooms spread over four floors in a house built in 1927, brimming with an authentic feel.
A smart hotel near Sho Lao Ren beach. Rooms on the upper floors have fine views.
JIA Shanghai ¥¥¥ Boutique 931 Nanjing Xi Lu, Jing’an district Tel (021) 6217 9000 ∑ jiashanghai.com
∑ magnoliabnbshanghai.com
∑ qingdao.regency.hyatt.com
QINGDAO: Shangri-La Luxury 9 Xiang Gang Zhong Lu Tel (0532) 3883 838
XI’AN: Shangri-La Hotel Luxury 38B Keji Lu Tel (029) 8875 8888 ∑ shangri-la.com
This modern hotel incorporates European elements in its decor.
Hyatt on the Bund ¥¥¥ Luxury 199 Huangpu Lu, Hongkou district Tel (021) 6393 1234 A modern hotel with all the latest amenities, a spa, and restaurant.
A stylish property with spotless rooms and excellent breakfasts.
Shandong & Henan
Designer rooms at JIA Shanghai in Shanghai
∑ shanghai.bund.hyatt.com
∑ sofitel.com/xian
JI’NAN: Sofitel Silver Plaza Luxury 66 Luoyuan Dajie Tel (0531) 8606 8888
559
¥¥
∑ starwoodhotels.com
TIANJIN: The Astor Hotel Tianjin Historic 33 Taier Zhuang Road Tel (022) 2331 1688
Fairmont Peace Hotel ¥¥¥ Historic 20 Nanjing Dong Lu, Huangpu district Tel (021) 6321 6888
Beautifully renovated 32-room hotel in the heart of the French Concession. Set in what was once an infamous gangster’s home, the hotel is a special treat for those interested in Shanghai’s racy history. Rooms are priced in US dollars.
∑ fairmont.com
The Peninsula Hotel ¥¥¥ Luxury 32 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, near Beijing Dong Lu, Huangpu district Tel (021) 2327 2888
Shanghai's most famous heritage hotel, this Art Deco gem is outstanding in terms of its decor and historical interest.
Experience superlative luxury at The Peninsula, from its elegant rooms to the open-air terrace.
∑ peninsula.com
For more information on types of hotels see page 554
560
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
NANJING: InterContinental Nanjing ¥¥¥ Luxury 1 Zhongyang Lu Tel (025) 4234 917 ∑ ichotelsgroup.com
SUZHOU: Hotel Soul Suzhou ¥¥ Boutique 27–33 Qiaosikong Xiang Tel (0512) 6777 0777 ∑ hotelsoul.com.cn
Eye-catching trendy decor and a Suzhou-style rooftop garden.
DK Choice
The Puli Hotel and Spa Luxury 1 Changde Rd, Jing’an district Tel (021) 3203 9999
¥¥¥
¥¥
A sleek, urban resort with spacious rooms, a knockout restaurant, and a fancy spa. The Westin Bund Center ¥¥¥ Luxury 88 Henan Zhong Lu, Huangpu district Tel (021) 6335 1888 ∑ westin.com/shanghai
Attractive hotel with a distinctive roof, Vegas-style light effects and rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows – most with views. ¥¥¥
WENZHOU: Shangri-La Wenzhou Luxury 1 Xiangyuan Lu Tel (0577) 8998 8888
The city’s best hotel, situated in a skyscraper and renowned for its excellent service levels. Free Wi-Fi. ¥¥
Hunan & Hubei
∑ shangri-la.com
Impeccable service and huge, well-appointed rooms.
CHANGSHA: Dolton Hotel Business 159 Shaoshan Bei Lu Tel (0731) 8416 8888
∑ waldorfastoria3.hilton.com
This multi-award-winning hotel offers flawless service and vistas across the skyline.
Traditionally styled rooms on Old Street, close to shops and cafés.
¥
Zhejiang & Jiangxi
A 1930s warehouse converted into a swanky boutique hotel with designer furniture.
Jiangsu & Anhui
Located on the banks of the lake, near Leifeng Pagoda. Bright and spacious dorms and rooms.
¥
∑ westlakehostel.com
∑ orangehotel.com.cn
HANGZHOU: Xihu State Guesthouse Boutique 18 Yang Gong Causeway Tel (0571) 8797 9889
Great-value accommodation in the city center, within walking distance of many attractions.
A guesthouse with efficient staff, stunning grounds, and lake views.
Key to Price Guide see page 558
¥
∑ dolton-hotel.com
DK Choice CHANGSHA: Wyndham Grand Plaza Royale Furongguo Changsha Luxury 106 Furong Zhong Lu Tel (0731) 2074 421
¥¥¥
∑ wyndham.com
HANGZHOU: West Lake Youth Hostel Hostel 62–3 Nan Shan Lu Tel (0571) 8702 7027
NANJING: Orange Hotel Budget 224 Zhong Lu Tel (025) 8696 6971
¥¥
This hotel features a business center plus an on-site health club.
∑ the-silk-road.com
∑ waterhouseshanghai.com
¥¥
∑ shangri-la.com
TUNXI: Huangshan Tunxi Lodge Boutique 5/17 Lao Jie Tel (0559) 2580 880
Waterhouse at South Bund ¥¥¥ Historic 3 Maojiayuan Rd, Huangpu district Tel (021) 6080 2918
NANCHANG: Grand Skylight International Hotel Nanchang ¥ Business AVIC International Plaza, No. 1 Ganjiangbei Lu Tel (0791) 8206 6666 A quiet hotel with helpful staff, business facilities, and good food.
This charming retreat set in a traditional courtyard is surrounded by centuries-old Suzhou gardens. Rooms are lovingly furnished with smart, contemporary interiors. SUZHOU: Shangri-La Hotel Suzhou Luxury 168 Tayuan Lu Tel (0512) 6808 0168
Amanfayun is a quiet, ultraexpensive resort for the rich and famous, hidden in a picturesque valley amid the verdant natural beauty of the tea gardens.
∑ grandskylight-intl.com
∑ pingjiangpalace.com
∑ thepuli.com
Waldorf Astoria Shanghai on the Bund Luxury 88 Sichuan Zhong Lu Tel (021) 6322 9988
SUZHOU: Pinjiangfu Suzhou Hotel Boutique 60 Bai Ta Dong Lu Tel (0512) 6770 6688
HANGZHOU: Amanfayun ¥¥¥ Luxury 22 Fayun Jie, Xi Hu Jie Tel (0571) 8732 9999 ∑ amanresorts.com
This hotel towers over the city center. Two great restaurants.
Sophisticated interiors of the deluxe Amanfayun in Hangzhou
DK Choice
¥¥
∑ xihusgh.com
Though a little way out of town, this lavish hotel lives up to its five-star rating. The lobby is truly majestic and the rooms well appointed. Some guests say the breakfast buffet is the best in China. WUHAN: Jinjiang Inn Wuhan Budget Jiangtan Pedestrian St, 2 Dongting Lu Tel (027) 8209 999
¥
∑ jinjianginns.com
Excellent-value hotel in a superb location. Helpful staff, too.
W H E R E TO S TAY
WUHAN: Pathfinder International Youth Hostel Hostel 368 Zhongshan Lu Tel (027) 8884 4092
¥
XIAMEN: Seaview Resort ¥¥ Luxury 3999 Huandao Nan Lu Tel (0592) 5023 333
∑ yhachina.com
∑ xmseaview.com
Hip hostel with a pleasant terrace and mixed dorms. Chinese-style bathrooms. WUHAN: Marco Polo Hotel Wuhan Business 159 Yanjiang Dajie Tel (027) 8277 8888
¥¥
∑ marcopolohotels.com
This riverfront property with large, airy rooms is a good choice for corporate travelers.
¥¥
∑ bestwestern.com
A well-appointed hotel offering spacious rooms with free Wi-Fi. Complimentary breakfast. FUZHOU: Howard Johnson Riverfront Plaza Fuzhou Business 6 Jiangbin Dong Dajie Tel (0591) 8862 9999
¥¥
¥¥
A comfortable hotel with an oldfashioned feel and one of the best Korean restaurants in town. XIAMEN: Remy’s Garden Hotel Boutique 65 Kangtai Lu, Gulangyu Island Tel (0592) 5944 5994
GUANGZHOU: Journey House Youth Hostel ¥ Hostel 27F Building 1 Jiayiyuan, No. 445 Tianhe Bei Lu Clean, good-value hostel with kitchen. Shared bathrooms.
∑ ritzcarlton.com
HONG KONG: Hullet House ¥¥¥ Historic Map 1 A3 2A Canton Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon Tel (0852) 3988 0000 ∑ hulletthouse.com
Housed in a stunning Colonial building, this hotel features uniquely-decorated suites, all with private balconies. HONG KONG: J Plus Boutique Hotel Boutique 1–5 Irving St, Causeway Bay Tel (0852) 3196 9000
¥¥¥
HAINAN: Banyan Tree Sanya Luxury Luhuitou Bay, 6 Luling Lu Tel (0852) 8860 9988
DK Choice HONG KONG: Upper House ¥¥¥ Boutique Map 3 D4 Pacific Place, 88 Queensway Tel (0852) 2918 1838 ∑ upperhouse.com
A stylish haven from one of Asia‘s trendiest designers, Andre Fu. Enjoy fabulous city views from the luxurious apartment-like studios, which come with espresso machines and iPods. HONG KONG: W Hong Kong ¥¥¥ Luxury Map 1 B3 1 Austin Rd West, Kowloon Tel (0852) 3717 2222
DK Choice ¥¥¥
∑ starwoodhotels.com
The W has the island’s best pool plus rooms with superb views.
∑ banyantree.com
∑ shangri-la.com
Hong Kong & Macau
Designed by Philippe Starck, with quirky rooms. Rates include breakfast and evening cocktails.
Extravagant opulence and impeccable service; home to one of the top 10 restaurants in China.
Business-oriented hotel with large, well-maintained rooms. Good value, with a spa and gym.
561
∑ jplushongkong.com
GUANGZHOU: The Ritz-Carlton Guangzhou ¥¥¥ Luxury 3 Xing'an Lu, Pearl River New City Tel (020) 3813 6688
∑ hojochina.com
FUZHOU: Shangri-La Hotel Luxury 9 Xinquan Nan Lu Tel (0591) 8798 8888
Top-class resort located just outside the city center. Rooms come with baths the size of hot tubs, and many have private pools or gardens. Dine at one of the lovely restaurants dotted around the stunning gardens. Attentive staff. Book ahead.
Guangdong & Hainan
Fujian FUZHOU: Best Western Fuzhou Fortune Hotel Business 220 Hualin Lu Tel (0591) 8819 9999
DK Choice
Forty-nine pool villas are scattered around a sculpted tropical lagoon on Hainan Island, China’s premier beach destination. The hotel offers very high standards of service.
MACAU: Pousada de Mong-Ha ¥¥ Boutique Map 2 D3 Colina de Mong-Ha Tel (0853) 2851 5222 ∑ ift.edu.mo
Rooms are decorated in traditional Portugeuese style at this quiet inn.
¥
∑ remygardenhotel.com
Unusual, snug place offering oneand two-bedroom apartments, some with terraces, on Gulangyu Island. Book in advance.
SHENZHEN: Zen Guest House ¥ Guesthouse 75 Dawei Cun,Dongchong Tel (0755) 3070 7874 ∑ zen-guesthouse.com
Located close to the beach. Simple rooms and a rooftop patio.
XIAMEN: Xiamen International Youth Hostel ¥ Hostel 41Nanhua Lu Tel (0592) 2082 345
SHENZHEN: St Regis Shenzhen Luxury 5016 Shennan Dong Lu Tel (0755) 8308 8888
Friendly hostel with mixed dorms. Beds have curtains for privacy. Laundry and storage facilities.
One of Shenzhen's tallest buildings. Rooms come with various extras, including a butler service.
∑ yhaxm.com
¥¥¥
∑ stregis.com
Fashionable studio at the Upper House in Hong Kong
For more information on types of hotels see page 554
562
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Sichuan & Chongqing CHENGDU: BuddhaZen Hotel Boutique B6–6, Wenshufang Jie Tel (028) 8692 9898
¥
∑ buddhazenhotel.com
Lovely hotel with well-appointed rooms. The in-house restaurant serves delicious local food.
DK Choice
DEQIN: Banyan Tree Ringha ¥¥¥ Boutique Hong Po Village, Jian Tang Town, Shangrila County Tel (0887) 8288 822
GUILIN: Shangri-La Hotel Guilin Luxury 111 Huancheng North Er Lu Tel (0773) 6808 0168
This peaceful rural retreat offers accommodations in luxuriously appointed Tibetan-style villas.
The plushest hotel in Guilin, offering a pool and rooms with river views. Operates tours, too.
KUNMING: Lost Garden Guest House ¥ Hostel 7 Yiqiutian, Huanggong Dong Jie, Cuihu Nan Lu Tel (0871) 6511 1127
NANNING: Nanning Marriott Hotel Luxury 131 Min Zu Boulevard Tel (0771) 5366 688
∑ banyantree.com
CHENGDU: The Loft Design Hostel ¥ Hostel 4 Xiaotong Alley, Zhongtongren Lu Tel (028) 8626 5770
∑ lostgardenguesthouse.com
A stylish and quirky hostel in a converted factory, with both dorms and private rooms with en suite bathrooms. The staff are helpful in assisting with travel arrangements and tours.
KUNMING: Green Lake Hotel ¥¥¥ Luxury 6 Cuihu Nan Lu Tel (0871) 5155 333
CHONGQING: Beity Hot Spring Tourism Resort ¥¥ Luxury 288 Nongke Dajie Tel (023) 6571 8888
LIJIANG: No.188 Boutique Hotel ¥ Boutique 188 Bayi Lower Section, Qiyi Jie Tel (0888) 6536 6679 Traditional Naxi rooms run by a friendly manager. Great location in the Old Town.
∑ dragontown.com.cn/loft
∑ greenlakehotel.com
Surrounded by mountains, villas at this popular resort are scattered around a small lake. Rooms come with hot tubs and there also huge outdoor springs for guests to soak in.
Serviced apartments with panoramic views of the city. There is a pool plus great facilities for kids.
Yunnan DK Choice DALI: The Linden Centre ¥¥¥ Boutique 5 Chengbei, Xizhou Town Tel (0872) 2452 988 An eco-friendly resort where guests can experience traditional village life albeit in comfort. The 14 rooms are set around a scenic courtyard in a national heritage site. Rates include meals and excursions. Key to Price Guide see page 558
¥¥¥
∑ marriott.com
Comfortable rooms, professional service, and a spa. YANGSHUO: Tea Cozy ¥¥ Boutique 212 Xiatang Village, Baisha Town Tel (0773) 8816 158 ∑ yangshuoteacozy.com
Traditional Chinese-style rooms with tastefully fitted wooden furnishings. Breathtaking views.
Liaoning, Jilin & Heilongjiang DALIAN: Howard Johnson Parkland Hotel Business 95 Huizhan Lu Tel (0411) 8499 0000
¥¥
LIJIANG: Crowne Plaza Hotel Lijiang Ancient Town ¥¥¥ Luxury 276 Xianghe Lu Tel (0888) 4234 917
∑ hotelparklanddalian. hojochina.com
Thoughtfully-designed rooms with extras such as Wi-Fi and iPod docks. The lobby boasts stunning views of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Large breakfast buffet.
HARBIN: Kazy International Hostel Hostel 82 Tongjiang Jie Tel (0411) 8763 3400
Guizhou & Guangxi
A popular hostel in a former church with both private rooms and dorms. Good central location.
∑ ichotelsgroup.com
¥¥
∑ somerset.com
∑ linden-centre.com
∑ shangri-la.com
Elegant public spaces and rooms beside Kunming’s famous lake.
∑ cqbeity.com
CHONGQING: Somerset Jiefangbei Chongqing Apartments Block B Hejing Building, No. 108 Minzu Lu Tel (023) 8677 6888
Spotless rooms and a small western-style restaurant are to be found at this charming hostel. Friendly staff.
¥¥¥
GUILIN: Jing Guan Ming Lou Holiday Hotel Boutique 9 Ronghu Nan Lu Tel (0773) 2283 265
A quiet business hotel on Xinghai Square. Rooms have sea or mountain views.
∑ snowtour.cn
¥
∑ jingguanminglou. chinahotel.com
This friendly lakeside hotel offers a unique style of decor. GUILIN: Lakeside Inn Boutique 1-1-2 Shan Lake Building, Shan Lake Bei Lu Tel (0773) 2806 806
¥
∑ guilin-hostel.com
Beautifully located by the lakeside, this tiny guesthouse offers excellent hospitality.
¥
Spacious room at The Linden Centre, in Dali, Yunnan
W H E R E TO S TAY
DK Choice HARBIN: Modern Hotel Historic 89 Zhongyang Jie Tel (0451) 8488 4000
563
Gansu & Qinghai
¥¥
DUNHUANG: Mogao Hotel ¥ Budget 12 Mingshan Lu Tel (0937) 8851 777 A well-located no-frills hotel with clean and comfortable rooms.
∑ hotel.hrbmodern.com
Built in 1906 in the heart of what is now the Old City, this was the first international hotel in the area. Although it is now a government-preserved historical site, it is still possible to stay in the atmospheric old rooms.
DUNHUANG: Silk Road Dunhuang Hotel Luxury Dunyue Lu Tel (0937) 8882 088
¥¥¥
∑ the-silk-road.com
SHENYANG: Lexington Plaza ¥¥ Business 128 Harbin Lu Tel (024) 2259 8888 ∑ lexingtonshenyang.cn
North China’s best-known hotel for trips on the Silk Road. Lovely views of the sand dunes. LANZHOU: Legend Hotel Business 529 Tianshui Nan Lu Tel (0931) 8532 888
Comfortable, well-maintained rooms, and gym facilities.
¥¥
∑ lanzhoulegendhotel.com
HOHHOT: Binyue Hostel Hostel 52 Zhaowuda Lu Tel (0471) 6605 666
¥
∑ yhachina.com
Simple rooms are clean and spacious. Good value. HOHHOT: Shangri-La Hotel Hohhot Luxury 5 Linguole Nan Lu Tel (0471) 3366 888
KASHGAR: Kashgar Old Town Youth Hostel ¥ Hostel 233 Wusitangboyi Lu Tel (0998) 2823 262 ∑ pamirinn.com
XILINHOT: Shengli Business Hotel ¥¥ Business Xilin Square Tel (0479) 8818 956 Elegantly decorated, this conveniently-located hotel is a good choice for business travelers. ¥¥¥
One of the city’s few higher-end hotels. Enjoy the western-style breakfast and friendly service. YINCHUAN: Yuehai Hotel Luxury 1A Helanshan Lu Tel (0951) 5696 888 ∑ yuehaihotel.cn
Deluxe hotel with a gym, pool, and a garden with a pagoda.
The most popular budget option from which to explore the town. KASHGAR: Tianyuan International Hotel Business 8 Renmin Dong Lu Tel (0998) 2801 111
¥¥
∑ xjairport.com/hotel/index.asp
A centrally located hotel with agreeable rooms. Free Wi-Fi.
DK Choice
∑ yhjghotel.com
¥¥
Small, clean rooms near the railway station and night market. ÜRÜMQI: Bayinhe Hotel ¥¥ Boutique 71 Wenhua Lu Tel (0991) 2219 999 Music-themed hotel with spaceage showers. Great service.
Tibet Xinjiang
Hohhot’s first international deluxe hotel has a plethora of restaurants and leisure facilities.
XILINHOT: Yuanhe Jianguo Hotel Business 6 Nanjing Lu Tel (0479) 8299 400
XIAHE: Zhuoma Guesthouse ¥ Boutique Renmin Xi Lu Tel (0941) 7121 274 A popular hotel near the Labrang Monastery. Clean rooms and a welcoming Tibetan restaurant.
¥¥¥
∑ shangri-la.com
ÜRÜMQI: Bestay Hotel Express Ürümqi Hongshan ¥ Budget 49 Yangzijiang Lu Tel (0991) 4581 999 ∑ bestay.com.cn
Well-equipped, friendly hotel conveniently located for the railway station and airport shuttle.
Inner Mongolia & Ningxia
Restaurant at the Silk Road Dunhuang Hotel, Dunhuang
TURPAN: P Silk Road Lodges ¥¥ Boutique Muna’er Lu, Muna’er Village Tel (0995) 8568 333 ∑ silkroadlodges.com
Located in a traditional Uighar settlement, guests can experience local village life firsthand while relaxing in comfortable surroundings. There are fine views overlooking the vineyards.
LHASA: Phuntsok Khasang International Youth Hostel Hostel 48 Duosenge Bei Lu Tel (0891) 6927 618
¥
∑ yhachina.com
The most popular hostel in Lhasa is near the Potala Palace. Choose from dorms, singles and doubles. LHASA: Shambhala Palace ¥¥ Boutique 16 Taibeng Gang Wengdui Xingka Sangdong Yuan Tel (0891) 6326 695 ∑ shambhalaserai.com
An atmospheric hotel with traditional Tibetan decor. Great views of the city and Potala Palace. LHASA: St Regis Lhasa Luxury 22 Jiangsu Lu Tel (891) 6808 888
¥¥¥
∑ starwoodhotels.com
Fabulous pool and spa, excellent service, and rooms with views. SHIGATSE: Shigatse Hotel ¥¥ Business 12 Shanghai Zhong Lu Tel (0892) 8800 336 Large hotel with clean rooms and enthusiastic staff.
For more information on types of hotels see page 554
564
TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK Can any other nation rival China’s obsession with food? Instead of “How are you?” Chinese people greet each other with Ni chi fan le ma? – “Have you eaten yet?” Once your travels begin, you may ask yourself a similar question – have you really eaten Chinese food before? For the Middle Kingdom serves up cuisine of such variety and delight that mealtimes there will soon dissolve the taste memories of the
pale imitations of Chinese food from back home. As you travel around the country you will enjoy a culinary journey, too. From the wheat noodles, lamb kabobs, and Peking duck of the north, venture east to taste the braised crabs and abalone of Shanghai, west to try the fiery feasts of Sichuan, and south to “dot the heart” with a thousand different Cantonese dim sum.
Eating together, an important part of any meal or snack
A Divine Pleasure “Food is a divine pleasure,” runs a traditional saying. China’s fascination with food stems from the ancient worship of gods and spirits, when emperors were carried to temples or sacred peaks to guarantee good harvests with sacrifices of meat and rice wine. Today, any event can prompt a feast where families bond, relationships grow, disputes are resolved, and business deals are concluded. For Chinese people, food is not just a social lubricant, but the cornerstone of their culture.
A Famine Cuisine One of China’s problems has been: how can such a large population (currently a fifth of the world’s people) feed itself when less than 10 percent of its land is arable? The answer lies in centuries of innovation in the fields and in the kitchen. The Chinese have developed a “famine cuisine,” cherishing wild plants like bamboo shoots, lotus roots, seaweed, fungi, and moss, and utilizing
every part of domesticated or wild animals. Bustling markets, and even some mealtimes, are not for the squeamish, but the daring will learn how fish heads, pig’s trotters, chicken intestine, duck webs, sea slugs, and bull’s testicles can be prepared as delicacies. Imagine how many lives scorpions, fried and full of protein, could save in a famine?
The First Fast Food Although boiling and steaming are popular, Chinese cuisine is best known for stir-frying. Meat and vegetables are cut into small pieces and fried briefly in hot oil, thus saving on fuel and equipment without sacrificing the taste. There is little saving in terms of work time, but labor is the one resource of which China has no shortage.
the 6th century AD still sets the standards for today’s chefs: a recipe states that roasted suckling pig should “melt in the mouth like ice.” Over the centuries, countless men of letters have sung the glories of food. Song-dynasty poet Su Dongpo penned a famous ode to pork, and even today Dongpo pork remains Hangzhou’s most celebrated dish. The ancient philosophy of yin and yang – the blending of contrasts and duality of nature – applies to culinary matters in China as much as to spiritual ones. Achieving the right harmony of yin (soft, cold, dark, and feminine) and yang (strong, hot, bright, and masculine) will ensure good health, not just a good meal. Cooling yin foods – for example, most vegetables, crab, tofu – must complement warming yang – meat, chilies. Hence, in menu planning, there should be meat dishes as well as vegetable, hot and cold, sweet and sour, plain and spicy. Even meat dishes rarely contain meat alone, while the basic ingredients of stir-frying –
The Culinary Arts According to records, China’s earliest master of gastronomy, Yi Yin, cooked for the first Shang emperor way back in the 16th century BC. One cookbook from
Scorpion kebabs – cooking renders the sting ineffective
W H E R E TO E AT A N D D R I N K
Steaming food on the street – simple, fast, and efficient
scallions and ginger – are yin and yang, as well. Additionally, a balanced diet should include appropriate proportions of both fan (grains) and cai (vegetables), and not too much meat.
You Are What You Eat
an art form with a special vocabulary and a set of rules. If xian (an elusive, sweet but natural freshness) captures the soul of a food, cui (a crisp crunchiness like the skin of perfect Peking duck) is the goal of most Chinese cooking. Trained Chinese palates distinguish five different flavors – sweet, sour, bitter, pungent, salty – and only the right combinations work. Foods rich in flavor combine well with textured foods of little taste, such as sea cucumbers and shark’s fin, which absorb and heighten the foods cooked with them.
Nutritionists were attached to the Zhou court back in the 7th century BC, for the Chinese have long recognized the medicinal value of food. In the Chinese chef’s repertoire there is a dish or an ingredient for every poorly organ or ailment. Some foods that are meant to boost your qi, such as ginseng and Rice and Symbolism bird’s nest soup, require chopsticks in Food a small leap of faith as to their efficacy; others, such as In a culture obsessed with iron-rich duck blood, are more symbolism and eating, there are obvious. In some cases, as in many foods that have earned other cultures, animal parts are special meaning and are believed to strengthen the consumed on certain occasions. human equivalent: try duck Round mooncakes, dotted with brain for increasing your moon-like duck egg yolks, are a intelligence, ox tongue for must for family reunions at the eloquence, and bull’s testicles Mid-Autumn Festival. At the for greater sexual potency.
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Spring Festival dinner, the whole family cooks tangyuan, round sweet dumplings made of glutinous rice flour, because yuan can also mean “reunion.” Fish is particularly auspicious, because the character for fish (yu) sounds like the one for “abundance” and offers the hope of good fortune in the year ahead. Jiaozi (meat dumplings) are another New Year favorite, as their shape is said to resemble the symbol for prosperity. Birthdays are often celebrated with noodles, a symbol of longevity.
Recommended Restaurants One thing guaranteed in China is that you will never go hungry, as even the smallest village will have at least a couple of basic restaurants, while major cities are overrun – in Shanghai, for example, there are more than 20,000 restaurants, from hole-inthe-wall noodle joints to some of the most cutting-edge and expensive establishments in the world. The restaurant listings on pages 572–85 feature as wide a selection as possible, from inexpensive to upmarket. While focusing on Chinese cuisine such as traditional places serving noodles, hotpot or stew, there is also a good choice of great cafés, pizza parlors, and restaurants serving international cuisine. Establishments highlighted as DK Choice have been selected in recognition of a special feature – this could be exceptional cuisine, a fantastic atmosphere, excellent value or a combination of these.
The Five Flavors The Chinese are not really recipebound. Amid the drama of the flaming stir-fry, they seem to take a more flexibile approach, finely judging the right quantity of each ingredient. Nevertheless, Chinese chefs are very particular about flavor, aroma, color, and texture. Each of these properties has been elevated to
Cooking Chinese-style – balancing colors, tastes, and textures
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Types of Restaurants Whether you are looking to eat in the splendor of an imperial pavilion in Beijing, a chic Shanghai café, or a busy Sichuan teahouse, you will find a restaurant boom taking place in China. Freed from state control, entrepreneurs are thinking up tempting new ways to indulge in the country’s favorite pastime. You never have to walk far to find restaurants in China and when you do, do not let first appearances put you off – in contrast to the delicacy of the food, many gourmet restaurants boast simple decor and harsh lighting. Look instead for happy crowds of diners and a different concept of “atmosphere.” In Chinese eyes, the more lively and noisy (renao) a restaurant is, the better.
Typical restaurant – busy and noisy with a utilitarian decor
Street Food As China smartened up for the Olympics and the World Expo, street vendors must sometimes play hide-and-seek with the authorities. Yet their portable stalls form a vital part of the everyday life of China, selling cheap and popular foods such as breakfasts of dough sticks (youtiao) and beancurd (doujiang), or snacks like scallion pancakes (jianbing), sweet potatoes (shanyu) roasted in old oil drums, deep-fried beancurd cubes (zhadoufu), and local fruits. A reliable way to locate delicious street food is to stroll through a night market (yeshi), a culinary and visual feast where clouds of steam escape from bamboo steamers and the sky glows red from the flames of oil drum stoves. The sizzle of cooking and clamor of vendors shouting for business should stir your appetite and if deep-fried scorpions or cicadas on skewers prove too exotic, be assured that plenty of other foods will take your fancy. If the food is hot and freshly cooked for you, hygiene problems are rare. The market off Wanfujing Dajie (see p100), in Beijing, is the most famous, but track down night markets wherever you go, to enjoy the local delicacies and specialties.
Open All Hours
Hotel Food
Early to bed, early to rise was the pattern of Chinese lives until the 1990s, leaving some foreign visitors caught out when planning mealtimes. While Chinese stomachs still demand food earlier than their Western counterparts, social and professional hours are diversifying. You can breakfast on the street by 6am, but all hotels should serve breakfast until 10am or later. Lunch is typically from 11:30am until 2:30pm, after which some restaurants shut until the evening shift starts around 5pm. In the evening closing times can be very late, while some places never shut. Booking is rare except for the most popular and high-end establishments. Usually you can simply turn up; if the restaurant is full, you may have to wait until a table comes free or have a drink at the bar. Sometimes the owner will come to your rescue by setting up a makeshift table in the corner, or even out in the backyard.
If you are tired and hungry, and staying at one of China’s more expensive hotels, then room service can provide comfort with imitations of Western food. But try to make it downstairs, as most hotels offer a range of cuisines within the premises. In the main cities, some of the best restaurants are located in hotels, and you can sample some excellent upscale Chinese cuisine. Contrary to opinion, hotel restaurants do not always serve overpriced, deliberately bland Chinese food to appease foreign palates. However, home to one of the world’s top cuisines, China has a lot to offer. The more intrepid diner who makes a few forays outside the comfort of four-star hotel restaurants will be sure to reap Dunhuang night market – food stalls for shoppers handsome dividends. buying spices, silks, and carpets
W H E R E TO E AT & D R I N K
Stall-holder making some xiaochi or “little eats” in Dalian
Little Eats
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Themed Restaurants
Vegetarian Surprise
As urban tastes grow ever more sophisticated, restaurateurs race to catch up, opening restaurants with a special theme, cuisine, or setting, like a train carriage or mock prison. The character of these places is often nostalgic, such as the old Beijing style (Lao Beijing), where each guest is loudly greeted, and staff in preRevolution uniforms clatter the teacups in welcome on your table. The walls of Cultural Revolution restaurants are covered with bitter-sweet memorabilia of that era, while many Sichuan eateries have concentrated on rustic decor to increase the appeal.
The Chinese understanding of a good life is inextricably associated with meat. They find it hard to understand why someone who could afford to eat meat would choose not to. Nevertheless, you will find a few vegetarian restaurants in big cities, often attached to Buddhist temples, serving excellent vegetarian dishes to worshipers and non-worshipers alike. Many of these have meaty names, and are made in exact imitation of their meat-filled namesakes. Ordinary restaurants can lay on good vegetarian meals too, as long as you can repeat: “Wo chi su”, (“I eat vegetables”) a few times and don’t mind the odd bit of meat or chicken stock turning up in your bowl every now and then.
Cheap and nourishing snacks such as those found at night The Other China markets are known collectively as xiaochi, or “little eats.” There is not only a wide spread Restaurants that specialize in of regional cuisines across Han them are called xiaochidian; China, but also a whole range they sell different types of of ethnic specialties offered by Foreign Food noodles or dumplings, the many minority nationstuffed buns or alities from the Korean Western restaurants, now found pancakes. Open border to the in all major cities, typically offer early for breakfast, Tibetan plateau. Indian, Thai, Italian, and French, they may serve The minorities’ or a fusion of international food. simple stir-fried restaurants are an Some have justifiably earned dishes too, and “exotic” attraction wide acclaim, such as Maison shut only when for Chinese as well Boulud in Beijing, and M on the last guest as foreign tourists. the Bund in Shanghai. leaves. The setting is In Dai restaurants, In smaller cities, western Pretty colored usually basic, but the offering the Thai-like restaurants are harder to find, dumplings food is hearty, tasty, and cuisine of southern although Italian cuisine is the very reasonably priced. Yunnan, guests are most common – ravioli and Every city has its own local greeted with scented water, spaghetti are easy concepts varieties, but the ultimate given a lucky charm, and later for the dumpling- and noodle“little eats” are the dim sum of invited to join in the singing loving Chinese to appreciate. Cantonese cooking (see p288). and dancing. In Uighur Other Asian cuisines, namely restaurants, serving food from Korean, Japanese, and Thai, the Muslim northwest, belly are also well represented, Fast Food dancing is sometimes on show. and more readily accepted. The popularity of fast food giants McDonald’s, Pizza Hut, and KFC, now found in all cities, has spurred Chinese firms to compete. Yonghe King is an impressive Taiwanese chain serving up all-day breakfasts of soya bean milk, congee (a savory rice porridge), and spring onion pancakes, while 85˚c is a rapidly expanding coffee, cake, and bread chain. If the street stalls are a little too basic, food courts in department stores or malls are worth exploring and are clean and usually air-conditioned. Uighur bread stall in the market at Linxia, Gansu
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Food Customs and Etiquette Confucius was renowned for his silence at meals. The good news, however, is that 2,500 years later, the Chinese are actually quite informal at meal times. In fact, a busy Chinese restaurant can be a deafening place as waiters crash plates about and diners shout orders at the waiters. It may seem daunting but just join in and expect praise for your chopstick skills – even if you struggle, your willingness to try will be appreciated.
Business dinner in a private room, still an enjoyable event
Earning Some Face
The Art of Ordering
The Chinese do not expect visitors to be fully versed in proper banquet etiquette, but awareness of a few essentials can earn “face” both for yourself and your host, whatever the occasion. The other guests will appreciate that you have some respect for Chinese culture and traditions. When attending, or hosting, a formal meal, note that the guest of honor is usually placed on the seat in the middle, facing the door. The host, traditionally positioned opposite the guest, now more often sits to his or her left. If you come as a guest, be punctual and do not sit down until you are given your seat – seating arrangements can be very formal and based on rank. Once seated, do not start on the food or drink before your host gives the signal. Some of the delicacies on offer may test your courage; be gracious and try everything, it is an insult if the food is untouched; but leave some food on the plates. Empty bowls imply that the host is too poor or mean to lay on a good spread.
If you are someone’s guest, you may be asked to order something, or state some sort of preference – if you do not do so, a ten-course banquet could soon appear. Feel free to name your favorite dish, or point at the object of your desire, often swimming in a fish tank at the entrance to the restaurant. Freshness is all important in Chinese cuisine. English-language menus are becoming more common, and an increasing number of restaurants actively encourage visitors to get out of their chairs and choose ingredients from
tanks, cages, and supermarkettype shelves. Your Chinese friends (and waiters and onlookers) will likely be delighted by any interest you show in the whole experience. In the end, when language or phrase book fail, point at whatever appeals on other tables, or even head into the kitchen to find what you need. A meal might begin with cold starters such as pickled vegetables, ten-thousand-year old eggs, seasoned jellyfish, or cold roasted meats. When selecting main courses, remember to aim for harmony and balance – an equilibrium of yin and yang. For example, with sweet and sour pork, you might order a spicy chicken dish. Different cooking methods are also important: a steamed fish or roast pork add variety to a series of stir-fried foods. You shouldn’t need to ask for a side order of vegetables as they are usually part of the dishes – unless you want something specific. The last dish, or cai, is usually soup. Then comes fan, a grain staple such as rice, noodles, or bread (mantou), without which a Chinese diner may feel they have not eaten. At informal meals you can have rice at the start of the meal, but not at a banquet, or your host will assume his dishes are inadequate. Desserts are not a Chinese tradition, but fresh fruit is almost always served in Chinese restaurants, especially at banquets, and succulent fruit is available nationwide.
Filling up on rice at an informal meal in a market, Dali
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Invited to Dinner A formal meal often takes place in a private room and usually begins with a toast. The host serves his guest with the choicest morsels, and then everyone is permitted to help themselves. Serving chopsticks or spoons may be provided; if not, simply use your own pair. Confucius said that it was uncivilized to have knives on the table, but if you are really struggling, most restaurants will readily provide you with knives and forks. The host almost always orders more dishes than necessary. While it is polite to try everything, don’t feel it is necessary to finish it all.
How to Hold Chopsticks 1) Place the first chopstick in the crook of your thumb and forefinger. Support it with the little and ring fingers, and keep it there with the knuckle of the thumb. 2) Hold the second chopstick like a pencil, between Thumb and first Third finger acting middle and index finger controlling as a rest for the fingers, anchored the top stick lower stick by the pad of your thumb. 3) When picking up food, keep the lower stick stationary and the tips even. As the index finger moves up and down, only the upper stick should move, using the thumb as an axis.
suck greasy fingers, or use them to pick bones out of your mouth – spit bones or shell onto the table, into the saucer that was under your bowl, Good Neighbors or into a napkin. Toothpicks are It is courteous ubiquitous, but to keep your do cover the neighbors’ tea action with cups filled. To your free thank an attentive hand. And neighbor, tap your don’t be shy about first two fingers Crabs – difficult to eat shouting for together on the with chopsticks attention. Eating table. This tradition dates back to the Qing Qianlong alone is very strange to the Chinese way of thinking. Eating emperor, who liked to tour the in a group – sharing the dishes country in disguise. Once, at a and the experience – greatly teahouse, he took his turn to increases the enjoyment. pour the tea. His companions, who should have been pressing their foreheads to the floor, The End of the Meal maintained his disguise by tapping their fingers in a miniA platter of fresh fruit and kowtow. If you don’t want your steaming hot towels signal cup refilled, don’t empty it. the end of the meal is coming. Just as you should await the start of a meal, do not stand up
before your host, who will rise and indicate that the dinner has ended and ask if you’ve had enough. The answer is “yes.” The person who invited you usually shoulders the full weight of the bill, so accept graciously. Offering to pay is fine, even polite; insisting too hard suggests that you doubt the host’s ability to pay. The capitalist habit of tipping was wiped out after Mao’s Communist Party took over. Politically acceptable today, it is still rare, as is “going Dutch.” Prices are fixed and written down in most restaurants, and on bills, although there is the occasional story of restaurants overcharging foreigners. There is no service charge except in the more upmarket and expensive restaurants, which are also the only places likely to accept international credit cards.
Dos and Don’ts
The Business of Banquets
The Chinese are fairly relaxed about table manners. Slurping shows appreciation, enables better appreciation of flavor, and sucks in air to prevent burning the mouth. Holding your bowl up to your mouth, to shovel rice in, is another practical solution. You may happily reach across your neighbors, but do not spear food with your chopsticks, and do not stand them upright in a bowl of rice either, as it looks like an offering to the dead. If you have finished with the chopsticks lay them flat on the table or on a rest. You shouldn’t
The business banquet is the apex of the Chinese dining experience, and almost all significant deals are clinched at the banquet table. In addition to the above, further rules apply: arrive 15 minutes early; if you are applauded as you come into the room, applaud back; reply to the welcome toast with your own short speech and toast; avoid sensitive subjects; show respect to your elders and superiors by ensuring that the rim of your glass is lower than theirs when clinking glasses and drain your drink in one swift movement.
An old lady demonstrates the perfect noodle technique
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What to Drink Tea, of course is the most popular drink in China. There are countless arguments for drinking the infusion of the bush Camellia sinensis, and just as many legends about its origin (see p299). While tea is the most popular drink, there is a wide range of others for the visitor. Beer is popular with meals but wine is also drunk in many upmarket restaurants. Chinese spirits can range from the extremely pleasant to the almost dangerous. Likewise approach the “health tonics” like snake wine with caution – as if the reptilian “sediment” in the bottle isn’t enough, they can be fiercely alcoholic.
Tea plantation in the Fujian hills, South China
Types of Tea
Lid keeps leaves in the cup, not the mouth
Green is the most common tea, baked immediately after picking. Flower tea is a mixture of green tea with flower petals. Black tea colors during the fermentation process and the reddish brew that results explains its Chinese name – red tea. The most highly prized is oolong, a lightly fermented tea. Brick tea is black or green, pressed into blocks. Eight Treasure tea babaocha has many ingredients including dates, dried longan, and wolfberry, and Tibetans enjoy yak butter tea.
Black: hongcha,
actually called “red tea” in Chinese.
Green: lucha, uses leaves dried without fermentation.
Gaiwan or three-piece tea cup Saucer to prevent fingers burning
Pu’er: from Yunnan, Flower: huacha is compressed a mix of petals – into “bricks.” jasmine, rose, and chrysanthemum.
The famous “Hairy Peak” green tea Coffee
Tea and Coffee drink
As café culture enters China, coffee drinking is becoming fashionable among the middle classes. A Starbucks can be found on practically every main street and in every mall in China.
Those who want a fashionable coffee drink, but cannot do without their daily shot of tea, can try this blend of tea and coffee.
Soft Drinks Even as a cold drink tea is dominant. Iced tea is very popular, especially with the young. Besides the usual array of fruit juices, there is pomegranate juice in Xinjiang, hawthorn juice in Beijing, and lychee and sugar cane juice down south. As well as the global drink brands there are local challengers like Tianfu Cola, and the energy drink Jianlibao, made with honey. As China overcomes its dairy aversion, milk and yoghurt drinks multiply, as well as soyabean (doujiang) and Hainan’s famous coconut milk.
Bamboo cane juice
Iced green tea
Coconut milk drink
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Beer Europeans first introduced beer to China in the early 20th century; in the 21st, China has taken over as the world’s biggest brewer, so you are never far from a very acceptable light lager, and even a darker brew. Each city usually has its own local brewery.
Wine
Tsingtao beer
Yanjing beer
Spirits
Although grape seeds traveled the Silk Roads, China has historically preferred grain alcohol. The quality is rapidly improving, and red wine is almost exclusively consumed – it is considered good for the heart, and a lucky color too.
For millennia the Chinese have been distilling grains into baijiu or “white spirits” ranging from strong to deadly. Classified into three types: the qingxiang, or light bouquet, group includes Fenjiu from Shanxi; Guizhou’s famous Maotai is a classic jiangxiang, soy bouquet, while nongxiang, strong bouquet, is championed by Sichuan giant Wuliangye.
Great Wall
Dragon Seal
Rice Wine Despite being called “wine,” some care is required as this can vary in strength from a mild 15–16 % alcohol, to the double- or triple-fermented wines at up to 38 % ABV. Good rice wine is best drunk warm and goes well with cold starters.
Maotai “eight times fermented and seven times
distilled” is favored for toasts at banquets. At the other end of the scale erguotou is cheap and effective – the people’s drink.
Shaoxing rice wine Shaoxing: This is among the
Maotai
Erguotou
best of the huangjiu (yellow spirits), noted for its moderate alcohol content (about 16%) and mellow fragrance.
Drinking Culture Teahouses are enjoying a bit of a revival in China, as appreciation of tea culture recovers after years of proletarian austerity. While cha (tea) stimulates quiet contemplation, jiu (alcohol) lubricates noisy celebrations. Despite reveling in the drunkenness of their poets such as Li Bai (see p34), the Chinese have not been as badly affected by alcoholism as many other societies. Public drunkenness is frowned upon – except maybe in the ever more popular karaoke bars. Traditionally only soup was drunk with meals, but this is changing, especially when eating with foreigners. “Gan bei!” or “dry the cup” is the clarion call to toasting bouts and drinking games. Beware the legendary capacity of the northeast Chinese, The Jazz Club, Hong Kong – typical of the thriving big city bar scene and don’t drink alone or on an empty stomach.
Strong rice wine
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Where to Eat and Drink Beijing A Thousand and One Nights ¥ Middle Eastern 3–4 Gongti Bei Lu Tel (010) 6532 4050 Authentic Arabian cuisine, along with hookahs, belly dancing, and other Middle Eastern-flavored entertainment. The kabobs are delicious, as is the hummus. A few Syrian dishes are also available. Biteapitta ¥ Middle Eastern 201 Tongli Studio, 43 Sanlitun North, Sanlitun Houjie Tel (010) 6467 2961 Enjoy hummus, tasty pita sandwiches, and other Middle Eastern fare in this bright restaurant, a perfect pit stop before heading on to the bars. Crescent Moon Xinjiang Restaurant ¥ Middle Eastern Map 2 E4 16 Dongsi Liutiao, 100 yards west of Chaonei Beixiaojie Tel (010) 6400 5281 Possibly the best Xinjiang restaurant in town, thanks to its chunky lamb kabobs, and hearty chicken and potato stews served with nan bread and home-made yoghurt to cool down the heat. Crystal Jade ¥ Regional 404, 4/F, Bldg A, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu Tel (010) 6587 1228 Order fabulous dim sum at this famous Asian chain that also offers traditional dishes such as BBQ pork ribs. A value-for-money restaurant despite the regal decor and formal service.
Han Ceng ¥ Regional Shichahai Dongan, Houhai Tel (010) 6404 2259 A rustic and attractive venue that serves food from the Hakka ethnic minority that has settled in Southern China. The tasty, hearty specialties, such as salt-baked prawns on a stick, are very popular. Huajia Yiyuan ¥ Regional 235 Dongzhimen Nei Dajie Tel (010) 6405 1908 This is a great destination for a fun renao (literally, “heat and noise”) experience, as well as for the opportunity to sample the city’s staple dishes. Peking duck is a good choice, as is the spicy crayfish. Live Chinese opera and magic shows are often performed. Let’s Burger ¥ American B1/F, Sanlitun Village North, Sanlitun Lu Tel (010) 6415 2772 Enjoy fabulous, innovative burgers and milkshakes in a playful and stylish setting at Let’s Burger. There is a impressive array of delicious condiments including blue cheese sauce. Middle 8th ¥ Regional S8–40, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Village South, Sanlitun Nan Lu Tel (010) 6415 8858 Fresh and spicy Yunnanese cuisine in a fun and lively setting. Famous for its mushroom dishes, the mushrooms and ribs wrapped in leaves are a must-try.
Donghuamen Night Market ¥ Street Food Map 2 D5 Donghuamen Da Jie A fun market popular with tourists that sells snacks from all over China – from the ordinary (dumplings and chicken skewers) to the bizarre (bugs on a stick). Element Fresh ¥ International Map 2 F4 S8–31, Sanlitun Village South, 19 Sanlitun Nan Lu Tel (010) 6417 1318 Fast service, great coffee, and inexpensive Western classics make this bright and sleek spot busy from breakfast time till the evening. The fresh and healthy salads are a must-order.
Price Guide Prices are the equivalent of a meal for two made up of a range of dishes, served with tea, and including service charges. ¥ ¥¥ ¥¥¥
under ¥200 ¥200 to ¥500 over ¥500
Saveurs de Corée ¥ Korean Map 2 D3 Xiang Er Hutong, Jiaodaokou Tel (010) 5741 5753 Delicious MSG-free food in a charming setting. There is an à la carte list, as well as two popular set menus that allow guests to sample the restaurant’s signature dishes. The Veggie Table ¥ Fusion Map 2 D2 19 Wudaoying Hutong Tel (010) 6446 2073 Closed Tue Vegan and organic food on a menu that spans the world – the Indian dal (lentil) dishes and Middle Eastern favorites such as hummus are big hits. Lively atmosphere. Vineyard Café ¥ Café Map 2 D2 Wudaoying Hutong, off Yonghegong Dajie Tel (010) 6402 7961 Closed Mon This converted courtyard spot is a great place to refuel on Western staples. The coffee is good, as is the comforting macaroni and cheese. Agua ¥¥ Spanish 4/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Tel (010) 5208 6188 Spanish chef Jordi Valles excels at this fine-dining establishment, a branch of the Hong Kong restaurant. The suckling pig is sublime, as is the seafood.
DK Choice
Warm lighting in the elegant dining area at Agua, in Beijing
Dali Courtyard ¥¥ Regional Map 2 D3 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie Tel (010) 8404 1430 Easily one of the most beautiful courtyard restaurants in Beijing, this lovely, laid-back venue serves up unusual spicy dishes from the Yunnan province. The fixed-price menu does not offer much choice, but there is a separate vegetarian menu. Be sure to try the delectable Yunnan goat’s cheese and cured ham, if available.
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Da Dong ¥¥ Regional Bldg 3, Tuanjiehu Beikou Tel (010) 6582 2892 Da Dong is rightly famous for its Peking roast duck, but all the dishes are good, innovative, and worth a try. Great quality and reasonable prices. Book ahead. Duck de Chine ¥¥ Regional 4 Gongti Bei Lu Tel (010) 6501 8881 Duck de Chine is a stylish venue attracting an arty crowd. The classic duck dish, served with non-traditional sides with a French twist, is a specialty. Hatsune ¥¥ Japanese Map 2 F4 S8–30, 3/F, Sanlitun Village South, 19 Sanlitun Lu Tel (010) 6415 3939 A long-standing favorite for its unbeatable fresh sushi, this restaurant offers its own unusual take on classic dishes. Huang Ting ¥¥ Regional Map 2 E5 B2 Peninsula Palace Hotel, 8 Jinyu Hutong Tel (010) 8516 2888, ext 6707 Outstanding dim sum and classic regional dishes served by two chefs from Hong Kong. The interior, with its aged pine floor, wooden screens, and heavy studded door, re-creates a traditional hutong (alleyway). Karaiya Spice House ¥¥ Regional 3/F, Bldg 8, The Village at Sanlitun, 19 Sanlitun Lu Tel (010) 6415 3535 Come to Karaiya for spicy Hunan fare tempered to the Western palate. Classic dishes are ribs covered with spicy peanuts, and steamed Mandarin fish. Made in China ¥¥ Regional Grand Hyatt, 1 Chang’an Dong Jie Tel (010) 8518 1234, ext 3608 This sophisticated and muchloved venue brings a modern sensibility to Chinese dining. The Peking duck is the star attraction, plus there is a superb wine list. Capital M ¥¥¥ International Map 3 C2 3/F, 2 Qianmen Pedestrian St Tel (010) 6702 2727 A wonderful place for a cocktail, a special dinner, or even Sunday brunch while soaking up the views of Tian’an Men Square.
Minimalist decor at Temple Restaurant Beijing The most celebrated dishes are the crispy suckling pig and the slowly baked, salt-encased leg of lamb. Maison Boulud ¥¥¥ French Map 4 D2 23 Qianmen Dong Dajie Tel (010) 6559 9200 Renowned chef Daniel Boulud’s Beijing outpost is located in a swanky setting near Tian’an Men Square. It is seriously stylish and expensive, but the dishes, which include a decadent black cod braised in truffle, are worth it.
DK Choice Temple Restaurant ¥¥¥ Beijing International 23 Shatan Houjie Tel (010) 8400 2232 Closed Sun This restaurant is located in a building within the walls of a 600-year-old temple complex most recently used as a factory producing TVs. All of the dishes are good, though the classic Chinese cuisine – try the veal chop and sweet-and-sour carrot purée – is exceptional. The wine list is considered Beijing’s best. Diners can order from both à la carte and set menus. A memorable dining experience. The CourtYard ¥¥¥ Fusion Map 2 F5 95 Donghuamen Dajie Tel (010) 6526 8883 The CourtYard has kept up with newer venues thanks to its good fusion food, served in a modern setting that makes full use of its location close to the Forbidden City. Ask for a table that overlooks the moat and order grilled fillet of black cod followed by spiced apple.
Hebei, Tianjin & Shanxi BEIDAIHE: Kiessling’s Restaurant ¥ Austrian 96 Dongjing Lu Tel (0335) 4044 284 A decades-old restaurant serving traditional Austrian fare not far from the beaches of the seaside resort of Beidaihe. CHENGDE: Da Qing Hua ¥ Regional 19 Lizheng Lu Tel (0314) 2036 111 Open all hours, this affordable local chain specializes in noodles and dumplings – those stuffed with venison and carrot are a regional specialty. CHENGDE: Milan Restaurant Italian 9 Wulie Lu Tel (0314) 2665 939 A popular and cheerful place that serves good, authentic pizzas, and Italian wine.
¥
CHENGDE: Qianlong Dajiudian ¥ Regional Xinhua Lu Tel (0314) 2072 2222 Closed Chinese New Year This popular hangout has a range of local favorites, such as venison – either served with ginger or as a stuffing in dumplings. The staff speak only Chinese, so make use of the picture menus available. DATONG: Lin Lao Lao ¥ Regional 9 Xinkai Nan Lu Tel (0352) 2025 266 Head to Lin Lao Lao for the most famous Shanxi dish of all – guo you rou, or oil-rinsed pork. A simple place offering good food.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 565
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DATONG: Tonghe Dafandian ¥ Regional 11 Zhanqian Jie Tel (0352) 7166 944 Adjacent to the Hongqi Hotel, this is easily the best choice in town for inexpensive spicy Sichuanese and Hunanese cuisine. The Shanxi fried noodles are not to be missed. PINGYAO: Pingyao Qin Ge Da Quo Zai ¥ Hotpot Beiguan Dajie This national chain of hotpot restaurants originated right here in Pingyao. Diners can order from around 15 hearty varieties that include all the meat, veggies and noodles one can eat. PINGYAO: San Ge Da ¥ Regional Cheng Huang Miao Jie, near the City God Temple A simple family-run place offering great mao er duo, or cat’s ears pasta, a famous Shanxi dish. TAIYUAN: Taiyuan Mianshiguan ¥ Regional 17 Jiefang Lu Tel (0351) 2022 230 This unassuming restaurant serves inexpensive classics such as guo you rou, succulent pork that is first boiled and then fried. TIANJIN: South Beauty ¥ Regional 1 Youyi Lu Tel (022) 2325 9327 A wide range of spicy Sichuanese dishes are on offer here. The stone-grilled beef is considered a classic. Great atmosphere and friendly service.
DK Choice TIANJIN: Goubuli Baozi ¥ Snacks 77 Shandong Jie T (022) 2730 2540 Tel This is the original venue of the Goubuli Baozi chain, where their renowned steamed-pork buns were first served over 150 years ago. Customers flock to this inexpensive, no-frills joint to feast on delicious, moreish snacks. Try the meatball dumplings and wash them down with one of the specialty teas. TIANJIN: Yuanman Vegetarian Restaurant ¥ Vegetarian 12 Suzhou Dao Tel (022) 2302 2618 Popular venue that serves both traditional and contemporary Chinese food prepared using only vegetarian ingredients.
Shandong & Henan JINAN: Chongqing XiaoTian ¥ Hotpot 162 YingXiong Shan Lu Tel (0531) 8298 1688 Savor steaming bowls of broth and a variety of thinly sliced meats and vegetables, as well as noodles – tasty, warm, and filling. JINAN: Yuchi Palace Restaurant ¥ Seafood 6 Luyou Lu Tel (0531) 8238 6666 The main ingredient for your dish can be seen swimming in tanks and is caught only after an order is placed. Popular with locals.
JINAN: Biscotti Italian Restaurant ¥¥ Italian Sofitel Jinan Silver Plaza, No. 66 Luoyuan Avenue Tel (0531) 8981 6288 Come here for Italian classics and friendly service. The fixed-price lunch menu offers dishes such as open ravioli with mushrooms. LUOYANG: Lao Luoyang Mianguan ¥ Snacks QiYi Lu Tel (0379) 6322 6636 This popular pit stop serves hearty helpings of fried noodles, such as zha jiang mian (fried pork noodles in a soy-bean paste sauce). LUOYANG: Zhen Bu Tong ¥ Regional 69 Zhong Zhou Dong Lu Tel (0379) 6395 2609 Staff dress in period costume at this historic restaurant serving popular renditions of local dishes, such as meatballs decorated with peony flowers. QINGDAO: Din Tai Fung ¥ Taiwanese 6 Aomen Rd, Shinan District Tel (0532) 6606 1309 Part of an international chain, Din Tai Fung offers delicious Taiwanese dumplings, including the famous xiaolongbao (steamed bun). QINGDAO: Harbor Seafood Restaurant ¥ Seafood 220–308 Guo Dao Tel (0532) 8098 8888 Take advantage of this restaurant’s harborside location and enjoy the freshest seafood dishes. There is also a popular dim sum brunch on Sundays. QINGDAO: Ristorante San Marco Italiano Doc Italian 2F Haiqing Hotel, No. 11A Middle Donghai Rd, Shinan District Tel (0532) 8589 0526 The Neapolitan chef creates excellent pizzas, along with more elaborate dishes. There is also a good wine list.
The elegant and well-located Harbor Seafood Restaurant in Qingdao Key to Price Guide see page 572
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QINGDAO: Zur Bierstube ¥ German 1–A2–1, 10 YunLing Rd Tel (0532) 8889 7600 Guests here feel like they have been transported to Bavaria thanks to the delicious, hearty pork knuckles and several kinds of German beer.
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Blue Frog Bar & Grill ¥ American 131 Tianyueqiao Lu Tel (021) 3368 6117 This well-run bar and restaurant serves classic American fare. The burgers are a specialty, and there is a happy hour every day with half-price drinks and food. Bohemia Cafe and Bar ¥ Café 42, Lane 248 Taikang Lu Tel (021) 6415 0065 Located on a trendy, pedestrianized street, this popular, cozy café has both indoor and outdoor seating. Order coffee and a panini and watch the world go by.
Opulent furnishings at the renowned Shang Palace, Qingdao
DK Choice QINGDAO: Shang Palace ¥¥ Regional 1st Floor, Shangri-La Hotel, 9 Xiang Gang Zhong Lu Tel (0532) 8388 3838 A glamorous, upscale establishment located in one of Qingdao’s finest hotels, Shang Palace serves beautifully prepared classic regional fare such as char siu porkk (BBQ pork). However, the chef is not afraid to innovate and the menu also features braised pork ribs with pine nuts in red wine. The staff are dressed in traditional attire.
XI’AN: Huimin Jie ¥ Snacks Huimin Jie Xi’an’s Muslim Street is a lively destination thanks to its bustling market stalls and street vendors selling roujiamo (Chinese burgers in pita bread) and a variety of other snacks. XI’AN: Tang Dynasty Music and Dance Show ¥ Regional 165 Wenyi Lu Tel (029) 8822 1873 This is a great place for visitors to enjoy good food while watching the cultural performances held every night.
DK Choice
Shaanxi XI’AN: Defachang Restaurant ¥ Snacks Anban Jie Tel (029) 8727 3853 One of Xi’an’s most famous restaurants. Diners have a choice of 100 different items that can be ordered from a picture menu.
XI’AN: Tong Sheng Xiang Restaurant ¥ Regional Bell & Drum Tower Square Tel (029) 8721 8711 Simple and unassuming, but a great local favorite for its outstanding yangrou pao mo. This well-seasoned and hearty lamb soup, served in a bowl with crumbled unleavened bread, has been consistently warming hearts in the area for over a century now. Definitely worth trying.
XI’AN: Delhi Darbar Xi’an ¥ Indian 3 Datang Tongyifang, Yanta Xilu Guests looking to get a break from local cuisine should come to this long-standing Indian restaurant that serves good curries and naan bread. Frequented by expats.
Shanghai
XI’AN: First Noodle Under the Sun ¥ Snacks Hanguang Nan Lu Tel (029) 8728 6088 This vibrant restaurant specializing in noodles is located near Xi’an’s famous Great Goose Pagoda, and it is popular with both tourists and locals.
1931 ¥ Regional 112 Maoming Nan Lu, near Nanchang Lu Tel (021) 6472 5264 Closed Mon The romantic and traditional Art Deco ambience at 1931 draws diners in to enjoy standard renditions of reasonably priced local favorites.
Brasa Chicken ¥ International Rm 770, 3 Xikang Lu Tel (021) 6466 6384 A no-frills, laid-back kind of place, where the menu is distinctly meat-oriented. One of the highlights is the delicious Peruvian-style rotisserie-cooked chicken. Food to take away is also available. Crystal Jade ¥ Dim Sum Xintiandi, South Block Plaza, 2/F, 123 Xingye Lu Tel (021) 6385 8752 Hungry diners will find highquality Cantonese dim sum at this well-known chain, which has several branches in the city. The xiaolongbao (steamed bun) dumplings vie with the prawn noodles for the best item on the menu. Din Tai Fung ¥ Taiwanese 2/F House 6, South Block, Xintiandi, Lane 123, Xinye Lu Tel (021) 6385 8378 Din Tai Fung is a Taiwanese chain that serves unforgettable xiaolongbao (steamed bun) dumplings and other tasty steamed snacks. There is a children’s play area, and the staff are friendly and helpful. Element Fresh International Unit 2, 2nd Floor, Headquarters Building, 168 Xizang Zhong Lu Tel (021) 6361 6556 This casual place is one of several branches across Shanghai. It serves good Western options, such as salads, sandwiches, and pasta dishes. It is particularly popular for weekend brunch, when it gets quite crowded.
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TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
Farine ¥ Café 1 F, Ferguson Lane, 378 Wukang Lu, Xuhui district Tel (021) 6433 5798 Closed Mon This café/boulangerie is a great place to try artisanal breads and pastries. Discerning customers flock here to buy loaves and enjoy a croque monsieur (grilled ham and cheese sandwich). Hang Yuen Hin ¥ Dim Sum 290–292 Wanping Lu Tel (021) 6472 9778 In a verdant park setting, this is one of Shanghai’s best dim sum restaurants. It serves tasty crab dishes and egg tarts, and offers a 50 percent lunch discount on dim sum most weekends. Hunan Fengwei Xiaochi ¥ Regional 1233 Beijing Xi Lu Tel (021) 6279 4513 This is the place for a spicy feast of homely Hunan cuisine. There is no menu, so overcome the language barrier by pointing at what other diners are enjoying. Jia Jia Tang Bao ¥ Regional 90 Huanghe Lu, near Fengyang Lu Tel (021) 6327 6878 One of the top contenders for Shanghai’s best xiaolongbao dumplings – called tang bao, or pork soup dumplings, here. Payment is expected upfront at this popular place. Kota’s Kitchen ¥ Japanese 1333 Huaihai Zhong Lu Tel (021) 6252 1717 This Beatles-themed restaurant with a couple of branches in the city sees long lines of diners eager for its yakitori (skewered chicken) and pork ramen.
Matto ¥ Italian Superbrand Mall, 186 Lujiazui Xi Lu Tel (021) 5081 0966 Top-class bar and pizzeria with a relaxed, rustic ambience. The oven was imported from Italy, which makes the pizza as authentic as it gets in Shanghai. Red Door ¥ Regional 337 Aomen Lu Tel (021) 6299 8766 A casual restaurant serving up delicious Shanghainese staples, such as soup-based noodles and lion’s head meatballs. The wontons often sell out, as they are popular and inexpensive. Whisk Choco Cafe Café 1250 Huaihai Zhong Lu, near Changshu Lu Tel (021) 5404 7770 This stylish venue is a chocoholic’s dream. From an espresso with just the perfect mix of hot chocolate to the double-chocolate cupcakes, everything here hits the spot.
Yuan Yuan ¥ Regional 4/F, Westgate Mall, 1038 Nanjing Xi Lu Tel (021) 6272 6972 The efficient staff at this Shanghainese restaurant serve flavorful dishes in a simple setting. It is hugely popular so book ahead. Elefante ¥¥ Spanish 20 Donghu Lu, near Huaihai Zhong Lu Tel (021) 5404 8085 Closed Mon The extensive menu at Spanish chef El Willy’s sleek and stylish restaurant could make choosing a difficult proposition. Highlights include a wide-ranging cheese platter. There is also a deli.
The ultra-fancy bar at 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana, Shanghai Key to Price Guide see page 572
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Haiku by Hatsune ¥¥ Japanese 28 Taojiang Lu Tel (021) 6445 0021 A slick and stylish restaurant, and sushi bar. The cream cheese and Peking duck fillings may be unusual, but they are fun and delicious all the same. Prior booking recommended. Mercato ¥¥ Italian 6th Floor, Three on the Bund Tel (021) 6321 9922 Excellent-value Italian food from chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. The Pizza Lounge is a major attraction here, as is the Mercato Bar, which features a completely original selection of cocktails. Fabulous service. Tsukiji Aoasora Sandaime ¥¥ Japanese 191 Changle Lu Tel (021) 5466 1817 Closed Sun Authentic Japanese cuisine, including delicious sushi, is served here, the sister restaurant of a famous Tokyo establishment. For a selection of the best dishes, order the sushi sets; otherwise, try the outstanding tuna nigiri. Xi Na ¥¥ Regional 373 Huangpi Nan Lu Tel (021) 6386 2898 Tasty Hunan food in an elegant villa near Xintiandi. Order the cooled chicken with spicy chilies, and sweet and crispy smoked fish from the picture-heavy menu. A refreshing change from Shanghainese flavors. Ye Shanghai ¥¥ Regional 338 Huang Pi Nan Rd, Xintiandi Tel (021) 5878 5660 This upscale and appealingly decorated restaurant serves distinctive interpretations of classic Shanghainese dishes, as well as food from the nearby provinces of Zhejiang and Jiangsu. The restaurant also has a branch in Hong Kong. 8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo Bombana ¥¥¥ Italian 6th Floor, 169 Yuanmingyuan Lu Tel (021) 6087 2890 Outstanding Italian restaurant with a slinky bar near the Bund. The seasonal à la carte menu features dishes such as saffron risotto with pan-seared Hokkaido scallops. There is also a tasting menu worth trying on special occasions.
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NANJING: Nanjing Da ¥ Pai Dang, Deji Plaza Regional 18 Zhongshan Lu Tel (025) 8472 2777 Traditional Nanjing food in fun and kitschy surroundings. There is usually a line of university students outside. NANJING: Skyways Bakery ¥ Bakery Yadong Plaza A18, 12 Xianyin Bei Lu Tel (025) 8579 1391 Well known in Nanjing for its excellent and hearty Germanstyle bread and pastries.
Tables with a fabulous view at M on the Bund, Shanghai Jade on 36 ¥¥¥ French Pudong Shangri-La, Level 36, Grand Tower, 33 Fu Cheng Rd, Pudong Tel (021) 6321 7733 Closed Sun eve Highly exclusive, deluxe fine dining from chef Franck Elie Laloum is accompanied by sweeping views over the Bund.
DK Choice M on the Bund ¥¥¥ European 7/F, No. 5 the Bund (corner of Guangdong Lu) Tel (021) 6350 9988 One of Shanghai’s oldest Western restaurants, M on the Bund never disappoints with its sophisticated pan-European cuisine. The lunch menu, featuring dishes such as pappardelle pasta tossed with goose confit, red radicchio, and Parmesan shavings, is a bargain. The Glamour Bar is stunning.
NANJING: South Beauty Regional 172 Taiping Bei Lu Tel (025) 8451 1777 Minimalist in style, this place turns up the heat with spicy Sichuan classics, including mapo doufu (spicy tofu with minced pork).
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NANJING: Plum Garden ¥¥ Regional JinLing Hotel, Xin Jie Kou Square Tel (025) 8472 2888 This restaurant specializes in exceptional Huaiyang-style cooking, which includes a variety of crab and tofu dishes. SUZHOU: Songhelou Restaurant ¥ Regional 198 Shantang Jie Tel (0512) 6532 1398 Suzhou’s most famous restaurant. The sweet-and-sour Mandarin fish is a must-order. SUZHOU: Suzhou Zen ¥ Regional 108 Xinghan Jie Tel (0512) 6763 4567 Suzhou Zen is a beautiful upscale restaurant that is famous for its dim sum buffet on Sundays.
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DK Choice SUZHOU: The Bookworm ¥ International 77 Gunxiufang, Shiquan Lu Tel (0512) 5007 4471 A branch of the all-in-one café, bar, and library where travelers can get a break from the spicy local fare. The wine list is extensive, and the excellent brunch menu includes dishes such as eggs Benedict and freshly squeezed juices. SUZHOU: Wang Si ¥ Regional 15 Taijian Nong, Guanqian Jie Tel (0512) 6522 7277 Excellent tea and local dishes make Wang Si an increasingly popular spot. The delicious lotus root is a must-try. SUZHOU: Wumen Renjia ¥ Regional 31 Panru Jie Tel (0512) 6728 8041 A pleasant restaurant with a well-deserved reputation for traditional Suzhou dishes, such as squirrelfish. YANGZHOU: Republican Spring Restaurant ¥ Regional 79 GanQuan Lu Tel (0514) 8734 2551 A local chain with superb noodle dishes. Worth it despite the gruff service and shared tables. YANGZHOU: Yangzhou Fu Chun Cha She ¥ Teahouse 35 Deshengqiao Lu Tel (0514) 7233 326 This famous teahouse is located in a traditional three-story pavilion-like building. Try the delicious soup dumplings.
Jiangsu & Anhui NANJING: Bainian Lao Feng Xiaochi ¥ Street Food 122 Gongyuan Jie Try the vast array of Huaiyang street food available at this night market, outside the Fuzi Miao. NANJING: Bellini (by Mira) ¥ Italian Wenfan Lu 9, Xianling City University Tel (025) 8579 1577 Closed Mon An inexpensive place offering solid, authentic Italian food; the lasagna is particularly good.
Trendy and plush seating at Jade on 36 in Shanghai For more information on types of restaurants see page 565
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Dining room with an open kitchen at Amanfayun – Steam House in Hangzhou
Zhejiang & Jiangxi HANGZHOU: Due Forni ¥ Italian House 8, No. 147 Nan Shan Lu Tel (0571) 8702 6333 Due Forni is a branch of a famous Venetian restaurant that delivers an authentic Italian culinary experience from a great location on West Lake. HANGZHOU: Green Tea Restaurant ¥ Regional 83 Longjing Lu Tel (0571) 8788 8022 The consistently high quality fare and a frequently changing menu keep a clientele of both locals and visitors flocking to this place. Be sure to try the roast pork. HANGZHOU: La Pedrera ¥ Spanish 4 Baishaquan, Shuguang Lu Tel (0571) 8886 6089 This authentic Spanish restaurant and tapas bar specializes in paella. The chorizo and chicken version is particularly delicious, and you can wash it down with a Spanish beer or a glass of sangria. HANGZHOU: Weizhuang Zhiweiguan ¥ Regional 0–12 Yanggongti, Xihu Qu Tel (0571) 8797 0568 With a superb location on the lake, this restaurant serves classic Hangzhou dishes, such as West Lake fish in vinegar sauce. HANGZHOU: 28 Hubin Road ¥¥ Regional Hyatt Regency Hangzhou, Hubin Lu Tel (0571) 8779 1234 Difficult to say which is the bigger attraction here: the dongpo (pork belly) or the state-of-the-art wine cellar. Key to Price Guide see page 572
HANGZHOU: Amanfayun – Steam House ¥¥ Regional 22 Fayun Xiang, Xi Hu Jie Tel (0571) 8732 9999 Located inside the Amanfayun Hotel, this casual restaurant focuses on dim sum and authentic local specialties. There is a terrace for alfresco dining. NANCHANG: Café Roma Italian 129 Fuhe Bei Lu Tel (0791) 8669 1101 When you need a break from local cuisine, this inexpensive no-frills pizzeria does the job.
WENZHOU: Xinwangjiao Dajiudian ¥ Regional Wang Jiang Dong Lu Tel (0577) 8197 008 Point to the desired seafood or mime a cooking method – the staff at this popular outdoor venue have developed excellent interpretative skills.
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NANCHANG: Folk Restaurant ¥ Regional 342 XiMaZhuang Tel (0791) 8623 6820 The crowd of hungry diners here reiterates the quality of its Jiangxi dishes, particularly duck soup.
DK Choice SHAOXING: The Xianheng Restaurant ¥ Regional 179 Lu Xun Zhong Lu Tel (0575) 8511 6666 The most famous restaurant in Shaoxing specializes in delicacies such as crispyskinned chicken and smoked red dates in rice wine and fermented tofu. The manager speaks superb English, and there is a helpful picture menu to order from as well. SHAOXING: Xiang Hui Lou ¥ Regional 244 Luxun Xi Lu Tel (0575) 8522 6577 Use the picture menu to order local specialties such as beef and chili with Shaoxing vinegar. Nice wood decor.
Hunan & Hubei CHANGSHA: Boton ¥ Steakhouse 591 Wuyi Dadao Tel (0731) 8227 7518 Boton caters to expats and locals who like to eat steak alongside other fine, inexpensive fare in a relaxed setting with live music. CHANGSHA: Huo Gong Dian ¥ Fusion 93 Wuyi Dong Lu Tel (0731) 4116 803 The food – dishes from Hunan and other Chinese provinces – comes on carts, and diners can feast on a wide variety of small plates and snacks.
DK Choice CHANGSHA: West Lake Restaurant ¥¥ Regional Hongshan Lu Tel (0731) 8425 8188 One of the largest restaurants in the world, West Lake employs 300 chefs to cater for 5,000 seats. The menu includes exotic fare, such as snakes, as well as good renditions of classic dishes such as crispy fried pork and sweet-and-sour Mandarin fish. With live stage shows daily, this is an experience not to be missed.
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CHANGSHA: Xuji Seafood Restaurant ¥¥ Seafood 88 Shuguang Bei Lu Tel (0731) 8415 1560 Changsha’s poshest dining experience, with fresh seafood that can be picked from the huge tanks lining the restaurant. WUHAN: Charm ¥ Regional 616 Zhongshan Dajie, Wuhantiandi No. 2 – 2 building Tel (027) 8272 7606 Charm specializes in tasty Taiwanese snacks, such as bubble tea and scallion pancakes. For the adventurous, there is stinky tofu. WUHAN: Mr. Xie Restaurant ¥ Fusion 910 Jiefang Da Dao Tel (027) 8581 3580 A friendly and inexpensive place to try Taiwanese dishes, as well as Hubei classics such as nongjia xiaochaorou, a delicious spicy pork dish. Very popular locally. WUHAN: Wuhan Changchunguan Sucaiguan ¥ Vegetarian 145 Wuluo Lu Tel (027) 8885 4229 Adjacent to a Daoist temple, this charming Buddhist restaurant specializes in mock-meat dishes in which pressed tofu is used as a meat substitute. WUHAN: Wuxing Dumpling Restaurant ¥ Dim Sum 201 Luoyu Lu Tel (027) 8764 4345 A well-priced dumpling joint with over 100 different varieties on the menu. Do not miss the egg and scallion versions.
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DK Choice
XIAMEN: Bellagio ¥ Regional 6 Jianye Lu Tel (0592) 6577 333 The Xiamen branch of an affordable and stylish chain of Taiwanese restaurants. Order the sweet-and-sour fish from the gigantic picture menu, and wash it down with a freshly made fruit lassi (yoghurt drink) and peanut-butter ice cream.
GUANGZHOU: Bai Yun Xuan ¥ Regional Baiyun Hotel, 67 Huanshi Dong Lu Tel (020) 8333 3998, ext 3271 A local institution famous for its delicious dim sum, this hotel-restaurant fills up in the mornings, particularly Sundays, and stays that way for much of the day. The shu mai dumplings and steamed ribs in black-bean sauce are sublime.
XIAMEN: Big Mouth Japanese Restaurant ¥ Japanese 123 Lian Qian Dong Lu Tel (0592) 5922 166 A buffet-only restaurant with an array of fresh sashimi and udonnoodle dishes. Book ahead. XIAMEN: Temple Café ¥ Café 61 Zengcuo Da Dao Tel (0592) 2096 780 Housed in an old temple, this place has an adequate menu of dishes such as pizzas and burgers.
Guangdong & Hainan GUANGZHOU: 1920 Restaurant and Bar ¥ German 183 Yuanjiangzhong Lu Tel (020) 8333 6156 Come to 1920 if you fancy a break from Cantonese food. This restaurant provides a vast selection of German beer, massive plates of cold cuts, schnitzels, and sausage platters.
GUANGZHOU: Dongjiang Seafood Restaurant ¥ Seafood 2 Qiaoguang Lu Tel (020) 8318 4901 Spread over five floors and with a seating capacity of 3,000, this lively restaurant has a wide variety of seafood on offer. Do not miss the dim sum. GUANGZHOU: Tang Chinese Cuisine ¥ International 1 Jianshe Liu Ma Lu Tel (020) 8384 3320 This elegant restaurant provides unusual renditions of classic local dishes. The goose, for example, is served with dainty slices of foie gras. There is also a large dim sum daytime menu. GUANGZHOU: The Peninsula ¥ Regional 28 Da Tong Lu Er Sha Island Tel (020) 8735 3283 The Peninsula is a favorite haunt of those who want to see and be seen. The steamed frogs’ legs served on a lotus leaf are much talked about.
Fujian FUZHOU: Ez Café ¥ International Shangri-La Hotel, 9 Xin Quan Nan Lu Tel (0591) 8798 8566 Visit at lunch for the well-stocked international buffet, and at dinner for the excellent sampling of both Asian and continental dishes. Good desserts, too. FUZHOU: Xinjinyue Restaurant ¥ Regional 438 Guangda Lu Tel (0591) 2830 5777 The city’s fanciest restaurant offers delicious seafood, such as sashimi and Fujianese delicacies.
Informal dining space at Ez Café in Fuzhou For more information on types of restaurants see page 565
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TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
SHENZHEN: Muslim Noodle House ¥ Regional 8 Taizi Rd An unassuming shack that nevertheless attracts large numbers of local diners looking for meaty and spicy fare with that extra something. Noodles are made fresh in front of the guests. No restroom facilities.
DK Choice
The beautifully decorated Shang Palace in Shenzhen SANYA: Casa Mia ¥ Italian 88 Sanya Bay Rd Tel (0898) 8888 9828 With a lovely location on the waterfront, this is the place to order platefuls of pasta and red wine for a taste of la dolce vita. SANYA: Hai Ya Restaurant Regional 138 Xin Feng Lu Tel (0898) 8827 6962 A world away from Sanya’s fancier restaurants, this busy, noisy joint caters to those in search of Hainan chicken, the island’s most famous dish.
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SANYA: Fresh at Mandarin Oriental ¥¥¥ Seafood 12 Yuhai Lu Tel (0898) 8820 9999 Tucked away in the luxurious Mandarin Oriental Hotel, this is the place for an expensive treat. Try the oysters and shimmering platters of fresh seafood. SHENZHEN: Benjia Korean Restaurant ¥ Korean 8 Baishi Lu Tel (0755) 8654 1158 Spread over two floors, Benjia is always packed with Korean expats enjoying mouthwatering BBQ pork and beef with pickled kimchi on the side. SHENZHEN: Laurel Restaurant ¥ Regional 17 Nong Yuan Lu Tel (0755) 8317 1818 Enjoy the outdoor setting as the friendly staff bring out a wide variety of Cantonese dishes. The Peking duck here is divine. Key to Price Guide see page 572
SHENZHEN: Shang Palace ¥ Regional Shangri-La Hotel, East Side, Railway Station, 1002 Jianshe Rd Tel (0755) 8233 0888 With its magnificent decor and outstanding dim sum, this place is truly delightful. Enjoy creative combinations of tantalizing flavors such as crispy pork flamed with Chinese rose wine, and sliced roasted duck with mango. Shang Palace is definitely worth a visit.
Hong Kong & Macau HONG KONG: Guru ¥ Indian Map 2 B3 G/F, 13 Elgin St, Central Tel (852) 2547 9998 A small, charming restaurant decorated with vibrant Indian artworks, Guru serves food from all regions of the subcontinent. HONG KONG: Luk Yu Tea House ¥ Dim Suml Map 2 B3 24–26 Stanley St, Central Tel (852) 2523 5464 This colonial-style teahouse, with its beautiful paneling and murals, has been a destination for travelers for 80 years. Expect old-fashioned service as well.
HONG KONG: Serenade ¥ Chinese Restaurant Dim Sum Map 1 C4 1/F Hong Kong Cultural Centre, Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel (852) 2722 0932 Apart from dim sum, this moderately priced restaurant also serves fabulous shrimp wontons and Singapore noodles. Enjoy your meal while taking in great views of the Victoria Harbour. HONG KONG: Smrat Pure Veg ¥ Indian Map 1 B1 5/F, Block B, Chungking Mansion, 36–44 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel (852) 2369 5762 The inexpensive and excellent vegetarian food served at Smrat Pure Veg makes a trek to this spot worthwhile. The menu is varied and extensive. HONG KONG: Above and Beyond ¥¥ Regional Map 1 C3 28F, Hotel Icon, 17 Science Museum Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui East Tel (852) 3400 1318 Fine harbor views and spot-on renditions of Cantonese classics, such as roast pork belly and char siu (barbecued pork), have made this modern venue very popular. HONG KONG: Indochine 1929 ¥¥ Fusion Map 2 B3 2/F, California Tower, 30–32 D’Aguilar St, Lan Kwai Fong Tel (852) 2869 7399 A long-established favorite with the Hong Kong elite, who flock here drawn by both the restaurant’s French-Vietnamese cuisine and its elegant decor.
DK Choice HONG KONG: Maxim’s Palace ¥ Dim Sum Low Block, City Hall, 5 Edinburgh Place, Central Tel (852) 2526 9931 Head to Maxim’s Palace for a typical Hong Kong dim sum experience, and join the crowds of noisy and cheerful locals selecting their favorite fillings from service carts. From the BBQ pork buns to the stir-fried green vegetables in oyster sauce, the food is flawless, classic, and inexpensive. Great harbor views, too.
Dine with a stunning view at Above and Beyond in Hong Kong
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HONG KONG: Island Tang ¥¥ Regional Shop 222, The Galleria, 9 Queen’s Rd, Central Tel (852) 2526 8798 The beautiful 1930s Art Deco ambience provides the perfect backdrop for quality Cantonese cuisine and a variety of dim sum. HONG KONG: Super Star Seafood Restaurant ¥¥ Dim Sum Map 1 C3 83–97 Nathan Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel (852) 2366 0878 Head to this high-end place – one of several branches in Hong Kong – for their menu of appetizing crab dishes and dim sum. HONG KONG: The Square ¥¥ Regional 1/F Exchange Square II, Central Tel (852) 2525 1163 The award-winning authentic Cantonese cuisine has made this restaurant a popular destination for foodies. The booth seating is comfortable, and the platters of roast meats are a real treat. HONG KONG: Tsui Hang Village Restaurant ¥¥ Regional 1/F, 16–18 Queen’s Rd, Central Tel (852) 2524 2012 Famous for char siu (barbecued) pork, this no-nonsense restaurant may not be a place to linger, but it is the perfect spot to grab a bite on the run.
DK Choice HONG KONG: Chez Patrick ¥¥¥ French Map 2 B3 26 Peel St, Soho Tel (852) 2541 1401 Closed Sun, public hols French fine dining in an ambience reminiscent of a Parisian apartment. The chef changes his menu every month, but the restaurant’s signature dishes, such as king prawns and baby artichoke tartare, and goat’s cheese and beetroot ice cream, are always available. HONG KONG: Gold ¥¥¥ Italian Map 2 B3 Level 2, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham St, Lan Kwai Fong, Central Tel (852) 2869 9986 This restaurant lives up to its name with its flamboyant ambience and a beautifully designed terrace. The modern European menu has been developed by celebrity chef Harlan Goldstein.
The glamorous setting at The Eight in Macau HONG KONG: On Lot 10 ¥¥¥ French 34 Gough St, Central Tel (852) 2155 9210 Closed Sun A local favorite, with a lovely terrace and a classic menu served in an unpretentious fashion. Guests can bring their own wine. HONG KONG: Pierre ¥¥¥ French 25/F, The Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd, Central Tel (852) 2825 4001 Closed Sun, public hols Order innovative FrenchMediterranean fare prepared by a celebrity chef in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Pierre overlooks Victoria Harbour. HONG KONG: SPOON by Alain Ducasse ¥¥¥ French InterContinental, 18 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel (852) 2313 2256 Closed Mon The staff here do Alain Ducasse credit by producing superb eclectic food that lives up to his reputation. The breathtaking view of the harbor is a bonus. HONG KONG: The Chairman ¥¥¥ Regional 18 Kau U Fong, Central Tel (852) 2555 2202 Book at least a month in advance to enjoy the experimental contemporary Cantonese food prepared here – baked Coca-Cola braised-pork buns, for instance. MACAU: A Lorcha ¥ Portuguese 289 Rua do Almirante Sergio Tel (853) 2831 3193 A lively and long-established local institution that serves exceedingly well-prepared piri piri chicken and feijoada, the
classic stew made with pork knuckle, sausage, and red beans. Reservations essential. MACAU: Lord Stow’s Bakery ¥ Snacks 1 Rua Do Tassara, Coloane Town Square Tel (853) 2888 2535 The classic egg tart you can see being sold all over Hong Kong was invented at this very establishment. True fans still take the ferry to Macau to buy boxes of the original. MACAU: The Eight ¥¥¥ Dim Sum Grand Lisboa Hotel, 2nd Floor, Avenida de Lisboa Tel (853) 8803 7788 Come to this Michelin-starred restaurant for a lavish dining experience. The Eight serves Cantonese and Huaiyang cuisine, plus delicious dim sum at lunch.
Sichuan & Chongqing CHENGDU: Annvita Rose House Teahouse 61 Shenxianshu Nan Lu Tel (028) 8519 1777 A traditional-style English teahouse serving a wide variety of teas, both English blends and Chinese, along with exquisite cakes.
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CHENGDU: Cat in Hat ¥ Café No. 103 Diaosu Dasha, 1 Jingxing Lu Tel (028) 8556 9299 Cat in Hat is a very popular café and lounge famous for its desserts and warm, old-style atmosphere. Choose from a range of snacks, including dumplings and noodles.
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TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
The no-frills, bright interior at The Bookworm in Chengdu CHENGDU: Impression of Chengdu ¥ Regional Zhaixiangzi Alley 16, Qingyang District Tel (028) 8624 5678 This restaurant is famous for its spicy Sichuan cusine. It also offers guests the cultural experience of a Sichuan opera show every day at lunchtime. CHENGDU: The Bookworm ¥ International 2–7 Yulie Dong Lu Tel (028) 8552 0177 An all-in-one atmospheric bookshop, library, bar, restaurant, and event space. This, the sister branch to the famous Beijing edition, is very popular for its warm atmosphere and good wine and food. CHENGDU: Gingko NanTing ¥¥ Fusion 1/F–6/F, Western Tower, 16 Renmin Nan Lu Tel (028) 8611 6888 A fine restaurant with accomplished cuisine from all over the world. It is a particularly good choice for a celebratory dinner, since the desserts, such as the green-tea ice cream, are divine.
DK Choice CHENGDU: Yu’s Kitchen ¥¥ Regional Zhaixiangzi Alley 43 Tel (028) 8669 1985 This elegant restaurant offers a contemporary take on traditional Sichuan cuisine, with a range of elaborate and delicately prepared dishes. The atmosphere is slightly formal, and the menu changes weekly. English is spoken, so ask for the recommended dish of the day. Book in advance Key to Price Guide see page 572
CHONGQING: Dalong Hotpot ¥ Hotpot Xiaolongkan, Diantai Xiang Jie Tel (139) 8372 6399 The most famous hotpot restaurant in Chongqing sees long lines for tables almost every day. Beware of the spicy broth – it is exceedingly hot. CHONGQING: Donghuai Xichuan ¥ Regional 5/F, Chongqing Times Square, 100 Zourong Lu Tel (023) 6300 0880 Popular for its fusion of Sichuanese and Chongqing cuisines, and its fine desserts, Donghuai Xichuan has attentive service and a smart ambience. CHONGQING: Grandma’s Kitchen ¥ American 6/F, Darong Cheng, 8 Jianxin Bei Lu Tel (023) 6769 9775 A branch of a well-known Beijing chain that offers excellent service. Grandma’s Kitchen draws large crowds thanks to the big portions of burgers and sandwiches served in a warm and homely atmosphere. CHONGQING: Qiqi Hotpot ¥ Hotpot 2/F–3/F, Bldg B, 151 Zourong Lu Tel (023) 6379 9369 A very old and popular hotpot chain in Chongqing, with a typical menu on offer and bright and clean surroundings. CHONGQING: Yuxin Sichuan Cuisine ¥ Regional No. 16 Building, 1st Avenue, Nanbin Lu Tel (023) 6282 2088 This local favorite on the south bank of the Yangtze River offers excellent views and spicy food.
CHONGQING: Stone Fusion ¥¥ Fusion 6/F, Times Square, 228 Minzu Lu Tel (023) 6383 3337 A high-end fine-dining place that serves Western favorites such as lasagna and steaks, as well as local dishes, in a classy environment.
Yunnan DALI: Bakery 88 ¥ Café No. 52 Yangren Jie Tel (0872) 2679 129 The most famous deli and café in Dali, Bakery 88 serves delicious cheesecakes, healthy breakfasts, and apple pie, as well as good coffee. Friendly service. DALI: Cang Er Chun ¥ Regional 84 Renmin Lu Tel (0872) 6900 907 An old and famous Yunnan restaurant located inside a stunning wooden building. Try the Crossing the Bridge noodles. Prior booking recommended. DALI: The Good Panda Restaurant ¥ Regional 81 Renmin Lu Tel (0872) 3156 492 Try food typical of the Bai minority, such as goat’s cheese and ham with piquant pickles, in a stylish environment with traditional and rustic decor. DALI: Zai Hui Shou ¥ Regional 198 Renmin Lu Tel (0872) 6895 609 A small hole-in-the-wall joint with lots of reasonably priced and delicious options. Famous for its Yunnan rice noodles.
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KUNMING: Blue Bird ¥ Steakhouse Cuihu Nan Lu Tel (0871) 6531 5507 A well-established restaurant located by the Cui Hu Lake, Blue Bird is famous for its steaks and large slices of cheesecake. KUNMING: De Yi Ju ¥ Regional No. JB3-6-1, Jinmabiji Square, Jinbi Lu Tel (0871) 6363 3555 Housed in a former general’s mansion, this three-story restaurant is the most famous place for Yunnan dishes such as Crossing the Bridge noodles. KUNMING: Wei Cai ¥ Regional 1 Cuihu Xi Lu Tel (0871) 6531 8999 Enjoy contemporary Yunnan cuisine with a lakeside view. The chef serves seasonal delicacies. LIJIANG: A Ma Yi Naxi Snacks ¥ Regional Near Xiaoshiqiao Qiao, Wuyi Jie Tel (0888) 5309 588 Try the cuisine of the Yunnan minority in an alley in the old town. This place also serves Lijiang baba, a pancake made of wheat flour, ham, and scallion. LIJIANG: Chattering Room ¥ Regional Dashiqiao Bunongling, Wuyi St, Gucheng District Tel (0888) 5180 439 Unfussy cuisine from the owner/ chef, who is famous locally for her chatter and heartwarming personality. Vegetarian-friendly.
Guizhou & Guangxi GUILIN: Chong Shan ¥ Regional Jiefang Dong Lu Tel (0773) 2981 335 The flagship of a famous ricenoodle chain, Chong Shan is very popular with locals for breakfast. Try the scallion pancakes. GUILIN: Chun Ji ¥ Regional 2 Zhongshan Zhong Lu Tel (0733) 2806 188 Renowned for its signature geese dishes, this perennially popular restaurant also has excellent dim sum. Prior booking is recommended at weekends. GUIYANG: Lao Kai Li ¥ Regional 55 Shengfu Lu Tel (0851) 5843 665 Local foodies come here for the must-order dish: fish in sour soup. It is always crowded, with people lining up to get a table.
DK Choice YANGSHUO: Red Star Express ¥ Café 56 Guihua Lu Tel (0733) 8821 304 A long-term favorite with international travelers, this lively pizza place is decorated with old-style Communist posters. It is a good place to meet fellow travelers, and when darkness falls, it is also a great place to enjoy a glass of local beer.
LIJIANG: Upstairs N’s Kitchen ¥ Café 2/F, Jishan Alley 17, Xinyi Jie Tel (0888) 5120 060 In the evening, this friendly café famous for its milkshakes and pizzas starts to have more of a pub vibe.
YANGSHUO: Farmer’s Restaurant Regional Jiu Xian, near Yulong River Tel (0733) 8772 715
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Cheap, cheerful, and touristfriendly, this restaurant offering Guangxi cuisine is a must after rafting in the Yulong River. Try the famous beer fish.
Liaoning, Jilin & Heilongjiang CHANGCHUN: Bao Jia ¥ Regional Tongguang Lu Tel (0431) 8676 1285 Bao Jia is famous for its authentically prepared Dongbei cuisine. The hearty portions are twice the size you’ll find elsewhere, and the dumplings are delicious. Efficient staff. CHANGCHUN: Z-Space Steak House ¥¥ Steakhouse 2632 Gongnongda Jie Tel (0431) 8564 5757 A refined, high-end restaurant, Z-Space Steak House is the place where locals go for foie gras and caviar, followed by a large, succulent steak. DALIAN: 68–86 Old Dalian Restaurant ¥ Seafood 3 Xinsheng Jie Tel (0411) 8265 7491 A small dining room means that this unassuming place is packed every day, full of people eager to try its famous seafood dishes.
DK Choice LIJIANG: Flower Private Home Cuisine ¥ Regional At the end of Zhenxingxiang Alley, Wuyi Jie Tel (1870) 8889 700 A tiny, cozy restaurant worth seeking out in a small alley where it could be easily overlooked. On the menu is classic Lijiang cuisine, and there are also several vegetarian options. The manager speaks excellent English.
¥
DALIAN: Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar ¥ American 184 Bulao Jie, Wanda Huafu Erqi Tel (0411) 8686 7426 Unadulterated Americanstyle menu, featuring big juicy burgers and pizzas that can be washed down with a round of mojitos. For dessert, tuck into the cheesecake.
The casual Upstairs N’s Kitchen in Lijiang For more information on types of restaurants see page 565
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DALIAN: Wan Bao Haixianfang ¥¥ Seafood 182 Jiefang Lu Tel (0411) 3991 2888 Dalian’s best seafood restaurant offers elegant decor and professional staff – not to mention prices to match. The spicy crayfish are excellent. HARBIN: Europe Restaurant ¥ European 22 Shidao Xi Jie Tel (0451) 8469 8887 This is the place to visit for traditional European fare, such as hearty steaks and French casseroles. The meals here are accompanied by live piano music.
DK Choice HARBIN: Katusha Restaurant ¥ Russian 261 Zhongyang Jie Tel (138) 3614 8098 Head to Harbin’s most famous Russian restaurant if you are in the mood for typical Russian decor and authentic fare, such as chicken Kiev and hearty beef stroganoff. Even the bread and butter is Russian. Unsurprisingly, it also has a peerless vodka list. There is occasional live music. HARBIN: Qiz.Douw ¥ Regional 182 Nan Shixidao Jie Tel (0451) 8264 5888 This reasonably priced and popular Dongbei restaurant is especially famous for big portions of dishes such as lamb ribs crusted with cumin seeds and crushed chilies, and carrot and lamb dumplings.
SHENYANG: Guan Dong Da Yuan ¥ Regional 112 Taibaishan Lu Tel (024) 8671 8222 This restaurant stands out thanks to its innovative design, though the food is more traditional – hearty, filling, and simple. SHENYANG: Xiang Jian Hao Wei ¥ Regional 30 Guilin Jie Tel (024) 8285 1378 Homely, well-priced Dongbei cuisine in a cheerful room usually packed with diners. Book ahead.
Inner Mongolia & Ningxia HOHHOT: Gerile Ama Milk Tea House ¥ Teahouse 2/F, Xinhua Square, 93 Xilin Bei Lu Tel (0471) 6924 755 Enjoy authentic Mongolian tea and dairy desserts in a friendly atmosphere. This is a great place to get warm on a cold day. HOHHOT: Meng Gu Da Ying Regional Inside the Inner Mongolia Race Course, 27 Hulun Bei Lu Tel (0471) 6516 868 Set in yurts, this authentic place offers great Mongolian cuisine, such as pulled lamb and Mongolian milk tea.
HOHHOT: Zuo Cheng You Yu ¥¥ Regional 2/F, Chang’an Jinzuo, Xinhua Dong Jie Tel (0471) 4682 300 Closed Chinese New Year Serving contemporary Cantonese cuisine, this is Hohhot’s best finedining restaurant. Efficient service.
The popular Wan Bao Haixianfang seafood restaurant in Dalian, Liaoning Key to Price Guide see page 572
¥
YINCHUAN: Guo Qiang Shou Zhua ¥ Regional 408 Jiefang Xi Jie Tel (0951) 5036 220 Give the cutlery a miss and dig into the great mutton dishes with your fingers at this typical Xinjiang restaurant, also known for its medicinal tea.
DK Choice YINCHUAN: Ying Bin Lou ¥ Regional 11 Jiefang Xi Jie Tel (0951) 6025 950 A very old and famous Xinjiang restaurant popular for its homemade pomegranate ice cream in summer, and lamb hotpot in winter. English is not spoken here, but there is a comprehensive picture menu, and the staff are keen to help.
Gansu & Qinghai DUNHUANG: Daji Donkey ¥ Regional In the alley east to Jinshan Hotel, near Shazhou Hotel The name gives the specialty away – donkey-meat dishes dominate at this homely place.
DK Choice DUNHUANG: Dun Lai Shun ¥ Regional 11 Mingshan Lu Tel (0937) 8832 203 The city’s best restaurant, Dun Lai Shun is cheap, yet stylish and welcoming. Dishes from all over China are served, as well as Xinjiang staples, such as roast mutton and spicy cucumber.
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Staff in traditional attire at Wordo Kitchen in Shigatse, Tibet LANZHOU: Wu Miu Le Regional 2168 Beibinhe Xi Lu
¥
Closed Eves
Be prepared to wait at this popular draw to try the city’s most famous and tastiest noodles and beef dishes. LANZHOU: Zhong Hua ¥ Middle Eastern 765 Nanchang Lu Tel (0931) 8880 555 The flagship establishment of a well-known local chain of Muslim restaurants. Be sure to try the succulent roast mutton, which is best eaten using your fingers instead of cutlery. XINING: Qinghai Tu Huoguo ¥ Hotpot Intersection of Xiaoxin Jie and Yinma Jie Qinghai-style hotpot is the perfect dish for the long winter, and the one served here is truly memorable. Beware of the spicy variety, though, as it is quite hot. XINING: Shalihai Catering Food City ¥ Regional 4 Bei Jie Tel (0971) 8232 039 This popular local chain specializes in mutton dishes. Try the stewed mutton in rice wine and deep fried diced potatoes. No English is spoken here, so guests might have to do some pointing. XINING: Yi Xin Shouzhua ¥ Regional Baiyu Alley 5, Huayuan Bei Jie Tel (0971) 8179 336 One of the best local Muslim restaurants, with a reputation for cleanliness and good-quality cuisine. Try the la mian noodles.
Xinjiang
Tibet
KASHGAR: Orda ¥ Middle Eastern 169 Renmin Dong Lu This authentic Xinjiang restaurant serves spicy kabobs accompanied by cooling bowls of yoghurt. The Uighur waiting staff are quite friendly.
LHASA: Guangming Gangqiongtian Tea House ¥ Teahouse Danjielin Lu Tel (0891) 6885 357 A local favorite known for serving Tibetan sweet tea and noodles.
KASHGAR: Altun Orda ¥¥ Middle Eastern Renmin Xi Lu Tel (0998) 2583 555 Altun Orda is a very high-end and luxuriously furbished Xinjiang restaurant. The excellent pilaf is highly recommended. The staff speak some basic English. TURPAN: Best Food Burger ¥ American Dashizi, Laocheng Xi Lu Fans of American-style fast food can head to Best Food Burger, safe in the knowledge that the menu here features nothing other than burgers and fries. ÜRÜMQI: Huo Yan Shan ¥ Hotpot 2/F, 1 Mingyuan Lu Tel (0991) 4562 888 An all-you-can-eat self-service hotpot with live local music performances during lunch and dinner. Diners may have to share a table. ÜRÜMQI: Miraj ¥ Turkish 31, 2nd Alley, Shengli Lu Tel (0991) 2885 522 Do not miss this gorgeously and exotically decorated Turkish restaurant. Miraj is one of Ürümqi’s premier fine-dining venues, serving spicy and tasty lamb kabobs.
DK Choice LHASA: Lhasa Namasede Restaurant ¥ Fusion 2/F, 30 Yutuo Lu Tel (0891) 6324 669 This friendly place offers Indian, continental, Chinese, Tibetan, and Nepali dishes, as well as burgers, ice creams, and cakes. A great place to meet travelers. LHASA: Renmin Communist Century Cunjun Mansion ¥ Regional 1 Chaoyang Lu Tel (0891) 6788 888 Famous for its mushroom hotpot with Tibetan chicken soup. The yak beef is also very popular. SHIGATSE: Wordo Kitchen ¥ Regional 8 Zhade Dong Lu Tel (0892) 8823 994 Gorgeous decor and smiling waiting staff await here. The food is traditional yet wholesome; try the roasted leg of lamb. SHIGATSE: Yak Head Tibet Restaurant ¥ Regional 16 Zanglong Square, Shandong Lu Tel (0892) 8841 118 This is the perfect place to enjoy mellow and savoury Tibetan milk tea and yak beef.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 565
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SHOPS & MARKETS China’s rich artistic heritage is reflected in its stunning range of characteristic works of art – from stylized landscape paintings and calligraphy to delicate ceramic bowls and exquisitely carved bamboo. With the burgeoning of tourism and the official encouragement of enterprise, Chinese cities are alive with shops and markets selling an often bewildering array of trinkets and souvenirs. Even though the market is flooded with cheap imitations, many objects are still made by age-old techniques, and authentic
items are not hard to find. Perhaps some of the most unique souvenirs are those produced by China’s ethnic minorities, particularly their accomplished embroidery. The major cities have seen the emergence of malls and department stores, which provide certificates of authenticity for items such as jewelry and semi-precious stones (although still no guarantee). Many large hotels also have souvenir shops, although these tend to stock over-priced, upmarket items, such as silk and jade.
Opening Hours Shops in China are usually open from 8:30am until fairly late in the evening – around 8pm – while winter timings are generally 9am to 7pm. High street stores and malls tend to open from 10am to 10pm regardless of the season. They can be very busy in the evening once offices have closed. The opening and closing times of shops varies from place to place; in some areas they open as early as 8am, and stay open until well after 8pm. Local food shops and markets selling fresh produce remain open for business from early in the morning until late at night. Some shops remain closed on public holidays such as the three-day Chinese New Year (Spring Festival), National Day (October 1), and New Year’s Day (January 1), although most malls remain open.
An array of calligraphy brushes for sale in a Beijing market
How to Pay The Chinese currency is the yuan renminbi or “people’s money” (shortened to RMB). One yuan is divided into 10 jiao or mao, each of which is divided even farther into 10 fen. Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in malls,
shops, hotels, restaurants, and bars. Likewise, ATMs are widespread in every city including at most major banks, such as Bank of China, ICBC, HSBC, Citibank, and Bank of Communications. ATMs should display in both Chinese and English, or give you the option to display in English only. The commission and exchange rates charged for ATM withdrawals depend on your bank, so it is worth checking before your visit. Most major banks have exchange desks for foreign currency. These are also found at airports, in larger hotels, and in certain stores. Be sure to keep your exchange receipts, since you will need them to convert your spare renminbi into another currency before leaving the country (see pp608–9).
Bargaining
Bustling Nanjing Road with its brightly colored billboards, Shanghai
Bargaining is a common practice in China, especially in street markets, night bazaars, and souvenir stands. It is even worth trying in the smarter, more expensive hotels, modern shops, department stores, and government emporia. Stallholders are notorious for charging visitors thrice the “real” price, and sometimes their starting price may be up to ten times the cost. Make a comparison of prices and be conscious of what others are paying, particularly local Chinese.
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cooking pots. While some markets still follow the lunar calendar, which is confusing for most visitors, many have shifted to a more regular schedule. Such markets are busiest between mid-morning and mid-afternoon. The variety of food, souvenirs, and domestic items on sale is astounding, but be prepared to bargain hard.
Antiques Unless you’re an expert, buying antiques in China is a rather risky proposition. Many Chinese An upmarket department store in Zhaoqing, Guangdong cities have flourishing antiques Department Stores Markets markets, but most of the items & Boutiques on sale will undoubtedly be The best way to experience fake. However, as long as you China’s diversity and its The consumer revolution in don’t mistake them for the real many ethnic cultures is to visit China has led to the mushthing, it is fun to browse and the bustling local markets, rooming of upmarket brand bargain for cheap replicas. The especially in rural areas. stores, shopping plazas, and state-run antique shops, like the fashion boutiques in every city, Held on specific days Friendship Stores, especially Beijing and Shanghai. of the week, these are are in decline – and locally known as Brands from D&G to Gap, Zara, never had any ganji, which means Apple, and Hershey chocolates bargains anyway. “going to market,” can now be found in the Shops in the foyers leading retail cities of Shanghai or gangai, meanof art galleries and and Beijing, as well as the many ing “going to museums also sell the street.” malls in other Chinese cities. works of art such as Traditionally, As in most developed counSelling carpets at a market in scroll paintings, people from the tries, there is heavy emphasis Linxia, Gansu calligraphy, and surrounding on high-end items such as attractive silk scarves. In China, countryside came into town on electrical goods, designer objects dating to 1795 or earlier fashion, perfumes, jewelry, and market days to buy or sell their may not be legally exported, so farm produce. watches, while large stores, make sure any antiques (of a Nowadays however, rural such as Carrefour, Marks & later date) that you purchase markets are expanding their Spencer, IKEA, and Walmart, carry a red wax seal permitting scope, and it is not uncommon offer foods, souvenirs, and export. Always keep the to see stalls selling a range of household goods at receipts as they may be household items from reasonable prices. required at Customs. toothbrushes to woks and
Shopping Malls Like in all fast-emerging Asian nations, mall shopping is a favored urban leisure pursuit. In most Chinese cities, glassy retail plazas dominate the downtown areas. They are usually built to a similar design and house a mix of upmarket brands, coffee shops, fast food outlets, and local eateries, with a giant supermarket in the basement. In the central business districts of the largest cities, upscale shopping malls are attached to luxury hotels. While the malls multiply, China’s department store heritage is fast diminishing.
A souvenir shop in Qingcheng Shan park near Chengdu
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What to Buy in China Market stalls and small shops sell interesting souvenirs in tourist centers throughout China. Traditionally styled items can be found just about everywhere, while many other crafts are regional. You can find beautifully intricate embroidery in the southwest, prayer wheels and flags in Tibet, carpets in Xinjiang, and ginseng in the northeast. When shopping in markets it is essential to bargain. Gift shops at factories usually have fixed, but inflated, prices.
A collection of Mao statuettes in many different poses
Calligraphy A skill as revered as painting, calligraphy is an ancient Chinese art that is a fluid form of self-expression. Master calligraphers practice their art assiduously, and one of their works could be very expensive. Less costly examples of calligraphy are widely available.
Scrolls painted with elegantly striking script make excellent souvenirs. Skilled calligraphers will paint chosen sayings in different styles or you can purchase pre-painted works.
Marble chops are traditionally used to imprint a calligrapher’s seal on to a work. At many craft markets vendors create personalized chops by carving a character version of a person’s name on the base.
Lid of ink stone Ink stick Writing brush
Base of ink stone
Writing brushes should have a defined tip and firm fur bristles. Ink sticks made of soot are ground down and mixed with water on an ink stone.
Ceramics Chinese ceramics are known the world over. They have been mass produced for hundreds of years, with fired pots being passed through a line of artisans, each adding a layer to the glaze. Porcelain, a fine, translucent ceramic, was invented during the Sui dynasty, and high quality pieces are still produced. Jingdezhen in Jiangxi has been one of the main producers of porcelain since the 10th century (see pp260– 61). It still produces fine pieces, although some of the cheaper wares may be decorated by stencil.
Painted on paper or silk with simple brushstrokes, painting is one of the most important traditional arts. Many paintings now have contemporary touches.
Yixingware, or purple sand pottery from Ding Shan in Anhui (see p224), is usually a dark reddish brown, but can also be green, buff, or gray.
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Silk Woven from the strands that make up a silk worm’s cocoon, silk is also a Chinese invention (see pp214–15). Clothes made of silk, such as ladies’ cheongsams, are widely available, but be aware that silk sold in markets is likely to be rayon. Beautiful embroidery on silk is also available.
Silk-covered cushions
Silk embroidered coasters Silk bags
Other Traditional Handicrafts
Jade, a semi-precious stone, is associated with immortality. These pendants are green, but the lustrous gem can also be gray or brown.
Occasionally created by skilled craftsmen but often mass produced, Chinese handicrafts are almost always highly intricate and of vibrant color. The variety of goods on offer is staggering, from delicate miniature glass bottles to the bold graphics of communist memorabilia.
The best paper cuts are made in a few minutes by a master craftsman with a pair of scissors. Most paper cuts are mass produced, with many simultaneously cut to a pattern.
Lacquerware jewelry box Glass snuff bottles were popularized during the Qing dynasty, when snuff usage was common. Using a hooked brush, artisans paint miniature scenes inside.
Carved wooden fan
Mao memorabilia is based on designs that existed during Mao’s rule. Some is authentic, but most communist souvenirs are produced for the tourist market. Mao badges
Decorative tassel
Cloisonné vases, boxes, and jars have been copper-enamelled: copper is faced with pieces of colored enamel and fired, creating a shiny finish.
Baoding balls are weighted and sometimes contain a chime. The two balls are maneuvered in one band, strengthening grip and massaging the channels through which qi runs (see p238).
Tea, often sold in colorful tin caddies, is available everywhere. Tie guanyin and other oolong teas of Fujian are very fine. Pu’er is a specialty of the southwest. Mao lighter
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TRAVELERS’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT The Chinese work hard, but they also take their leisure seriously, and have a range of traditional and modern entertainment. The vast tradition of performing arts reflects China’s rich cultural heritage, and includes Chinese opera, theater, shadow puppetry, and the circus. Many types of dance and music derive from ethnic cultures, adding to the diversity of entertainment. China’s increasing westernization has meant that young people in particular enjoy the same leisure activities as their western
counterparts, including contemporary films and music concerts. Karaoke is hugely popular, and most towns and cities have numerous bars, where visitors can sing along to popular Chinese and Western songs, accompanied by the latest videos. The Internet has opened up new avenues for online entertainment, with many people carrying smartphones, iPads, and PSPs. Casino gambling is only permitted in the specially administered region of Macau, and horse racing is popular in Hong Kong (see p338). popular among the older generation, and people practice early in the morning in parks, squares, and gardens.
Traditional Forms of Theater
Passing the time with a game of xiangqi on the sidewalks of Xi’an
Games Playing games in public parks is a timeworn Chinese custom, and though visitors may feel too inhibited to challenge locals to a game, they are great fun to watch. Some Chinese games date back thousands of years. The most well-known game is mahjong, which uses plastic tiles, originally made of bamboo or ivory. The rules are similar to rummy, with players trying to create identical, or consecutively numbered, sets. More advanced versions of the game have special tiles representing the four winds, four dragons, seasons, and flowers. When a game is in full swing, the quick movements of the participants make the tiles click and clatter – a popular translation of mahjong is “chattering sparrows.” Chinese checkers (xiangqi) is another popular game. Here, there are two opposing sets of round counters. The board is divided into squares by nine
vertical and ten horizontal lines. The board game Go (weiqi) dates back more than 4,000 years. Also known as encirclement chess, it involves two opposing sides, each with a set of circular stones, struggling for territory.
Beijing opera (jingju) is a world famous traditional art form unique to China (see pp80–81). It is highly stylized, and characters wear elaborate costumes with special makeup and masks. Performances usually take place on a simple stage with few props. The Chinese circus has a worldwide reputation for its highly trained gymnasts who perform breathtaking routines that showcase their unnerving flexibility. Displays of balance often involve household props, such as brooms, plates, and chairs, with one of the most
Spectator Sports The most popular sports at schools and colleges are basketball, badminton, and table tennis (ping pong), and the Chinese excel internationally in the latter two. Soccer is also played and followed with enthusiasm. The top European clubs have a strong fan-base in China, and Chinese soccer players are now being recruited by them. Fitness centers and gyms are becoming increasingly popular in cities. Traditional martial arts such as tai ji quan are
Actors in a Beijing opera, performing in opulent costumes
E N T E R TA I N M E N T
Shadow plays (piyingxi) are popular, and usually involve the use of leather puppets with jointed limbs. These are manipulated close to a white sheet and lit from behind, throwing their shadows on to the sheet. The performance is accompanied by singing and music. Plays with wooden puppets (mu’ouxi) involve elaborate and colorfully dressed marionettes, glove puppets, or puppets on the end of rods.
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increasingly popular with young people, although the older generation remain faithful to their traditional teahouses.
popular tricks being performed by 20 or so acrobats piled precariously on a bicycle. These routines are often combined with acts involving caged and tame animals, but the current trend is toward a purer display of acrobatics. Some forms of traditional dance still exist, especially among China’s ethnic groups. Some relate to shamanistic or other religious rituals, and often involve the wearing of special masks.
Shadow Plays & Puppet Theater
Rock & Pop Music
Crowds enjoying the many bars along Lan Kwai Fong, Hong Kong
instruments, has up to 17 bamboo pipes and a vibrating reed. Another ancient instrument is the earthenware xun. Dating back 8,000 years, and sometimes made of bone or ivory, it has a mouthpiece and a series of holes for varying the tones. Percussion Instruments include gongs, chimes, drums, woodblocks, and xylophones.
China’s rock scene is young and rebellious, and only really gained a foothold in the 1980s, when it played a central role at the Tian’an Men Square protests. Still not accepted by state-run radio stations, bands rely on the Internet and word of mouth. Chinese pop music is following in the same footsteps as the West, with young singers from TV talent shows like Chinese Idol and Voice of China making it big nationwide. Canto-pop, Hong Kong’s popular music tradition, has sugary lyrics of love and loss, sung in Cantonese. Many Canto-pop singers become hugely popular pin-ups, as have a new generation of Mandopop stars, singing in Mandarin, from Taiwan and the mainland.
Cinema Kite Flying
China has traditionally produced many good films, based mainly Kite flying is a major on folk tales, love stories, or hobby in China, strong patriotic themes. Chinese especially on Chinese music can be cinema has also embraced public holidays traced back as far international tastes, including when parks, as the Shang era. those of both Hollywood and gardens, and even Ancient sets of 65 Bollywood, and movies such as city squares are bells from the 5th Zhang Yimou’s popular Hero, crowded with century BC have been released in 2004, blended displays of colorful unearthed. During the A musician strums the martial arts with impressive and fantastically Tang dynasty, the lute-like pipa special effects. All cities show shaped kites. Birds traditional musical foreign movies, although they and dragons are the most forms began to take root and are often censored. common kite designs. music was also an important part of Confucian education. Traditional instruments Bars, Discos & include strings, winds, and Karaoke percussion. String instruments played with the fingers, plecBars, nightclubs, and trum, or bow are the Chinese karaoke lounges violin, horizontal harp, and have sprung up all many-stringed zithers, such as over urban China. the zheng. The lute-like pipa is Some bars specialize one of the most important in live bands, and stringed instruments. The most these are very common bamboo flutes are the popular with expats, vertical (xiao) and horizontal foreign visitors, and (di). The hulusu made from a urban Chinese – gourd and bamboo is popularly be warned that used in folk music. The sheng, drinks are expensive. Delicate kites for sale catching the breeze one of the oldest Chinese Coffee bars are also from the Yangzi, Wuhan
Traditional Music
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SPORTS & SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS As the Olympic host for 2008, Beijing was the showpiece city for a nation that celebrates sporting heroes with the fervor once reserved for political icons – soccer and basketball have become big spectator sports. The spending power and leisure interests of China’s booming middle classes translate into more sporting choices for visitors too – there’s skiing, golf,
The Olympic Games Infrastructure improvements and massive construction projects transformed Beijing in the run-up to 2008 Olympics. The city promised a “Green Olympics, Hi-tech Olympics, People’s Olympics,” so visitors enjoyed acres of parkland and futuristic stadiums. Half of the main Olympic Park area, at the apex of an extended imperial axis running north–south through the city, is being turned into woodland and lawns. At the 2008 Olympics, 43 world records and 132 new Olympic records were set. China won 100 medals, 51 of them gold, and so the Games were declared a logistical success. In 2010, the Asian Games took place in Guangzhou; in 2014, Nanjing will host the Youth Olympics; and in 2015, Beijing’s National Stadium will host the World Athletics Championships.
Spectator Sports China has gone soccer-mad. Although ancient records describe a game of kick-ball with three players on each side, and paintings show a Song emperor juggling a ball with his feet, soccer is a fairly recent phenomenon here. The Chinese Professional Soccer League was established in 1994, and the China Super League, an elite group of teams, kicked off in 2004. The Super League has a massive fan base, but has run into problems with corruption and sponsorship. Basketball is also gaining in popularity, its profile boosted by Chinese
rock climbing, and more. Courses in martial arts can be found in most tourist centers, or head to the hallowed halls of the Shaolin Temple to find a master. Organized tours ply the major sights of the country, but for a really memorable experience consider booking a trip that has a fascinating focus, whether photography, whitewater rafting, costume, or horse trekking.
NBA stars such as the towering Yao Ming. Beijing and Shanghai host the annual NBA China Games in August, featuring two of the top US basketball teams. The annual Rugby Sevens tournament in March is a massive – and very rowdy – event in Hong Kong, with international teams playing almost 70 games over three days. The Hong Kong Rugby Football Union plays regular fixtures during the rugby season, which runs from November through March. Both Shanghai and Beijing host tennis tournaments – Shanghai has the ATP Rolex Masters and Beijing the China Open. Shanghai hosted the Formula One Grand Prix for the first time in 2004. Tickets are expensive, but 80 percent of the circuit is visible from the stands. For a Chinese flavor, track down the Minority Nationalities Traditional Sports Games. Ethnic groups play unusual sports from dragon boat racing to elephant tug-of-war.
Golf Despite initial Communist Party reluctance to embrace this elitist, land-hungry sport, golf is quite popular in China. Visiting golfers can enjoy over 200 courses nationwide. Mission Hills has 15 separate courses in two tournament locations at Shenzhen and Haikou; while the course on Jade Dragon Snow Mountain near Lijiang, Yunnan, is one of the world’s highest. Perhaps the most alluring is the beautiful Spring City course near Kunming. Most courses are open to the public, and prices are similar to those in Western countries.
Swimming China has plenty of coastline but lacks the beach culture of its southeast Asian neighbors. However, Hainan Island is touted as China’s Hawaii, and the resorts there are improving fast, while Beihai in Guangxi boasts a very long stretch of sand. Closer to the
Horse trek up the steep sides of Tiger Leaping Gorge, Yunnan
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Traversing the sand dunes of Mingsha Shan by camel, near Dunhuang, Gansu
capital, enjoy Beidaihe, long the Communist Party’s summer retreat, or the seashores of the lovely city of Qingdao.
Downhill Skiing The best natural snow and ski resorts lie in Heilongjiang and Jilin provinces. Yabuli, about 100 miles (160 km) from Harbin, is one of the most established resorts, and Club Med has opened its first winter sports resort there. Several upmarket ski resorts are also opening at Changbai Shan. In the Beijing suburbs there are at least 10 slopes, mostly with man-made snow, and Shanghai has one of the world’s largest indoor facilities. Large feet may cause problems with equipment rentals, and watch your back – complete novices abound.
Choosing a Tour
the bane of all organized trips in China. These detours (from which your guide may be earning a commission) can cut sightseeing time short and will become increasingly boring. There’s a wide choice of tour companies to travel with. Abercrombie and Kent is an established international group that has provided well-organized trips for decades. Steppes Travel, which is particularly strong on the Silk Routes and Tibet, provides suggested itineraries that it is happy to adapt. The company also organizes special interest tours, such as those that seek out the intricate embroidery and beautiful textiles of Tibet and Guangxi. Mongol Global Tours organizes trips focusing on costumes and special itineraries for photographers. Myths and Mountains has some well thought-out itineraries that cover Yunnan and Tibet, and also organizes horse trekking. Wild China organizes tours
nationwide, including trips to remote Tibetan monasteries in western Sichuan and through the dense jungle and rural hamlets of Xishuangbanna. Bespoke Beijing is an excellent resource for tours, excursions, and guided walks in and around Beijing and Tianjin. They also arrange hotel and car bookings and restaurant reservations.
Train Spotting With its extensive rail network, China has been a favorite destination of train lovers for years, particularly as it continued to run steam locomotives well after other nations discontinued their use. The last line to run steam, the Jitong railway, no longer does, but tours to highly industrialized areas still operate, as many private lines at mining pits still use steam. China now has a national super high-speed rail network, which has revolutionized rail travel (see pp616–17).
A multitude of tour companies ferry groups of tourists through the top sights of China. If you are thinking of booking a tour, do your research carefully; it is essential to find one that suits you well. Beyond the obvious essentials of types of accommodation, transport, the size of the group, and the itinerary, be sure to ask about the tipping policy, which can sometimes add a sizeable unexpected cost to your trip. Also query the frequency of shopping stops, Boarding a traditional raft kept afloat by inflated sheep stomachs, Yellow River
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of kung fu practitioners at daybreak in the nation’s parks, particularly if your interest is tai ji quan. If you want to fight with more than your bare hands, paintballing is growing in popularity – try the listings magazines in the large cities. For those who really need to let off steam, anti-aircraft guns and AK-47s are available for renting at the firing range en route from Beijing to the Great Wall at Badaling. Hot air balloon floating amongst the karst peaks of Yangshuo, Guangxi
Cycling Although the curse of the automobile threatens the bicycle kingdom, China remains a great place to saddle up. You will see more from a bike than a bus, and gain greater insight into the lives of the locals. A well-organized tour should provide alternative transport if you become exhausted or fall ill, and will have all the fix-it gear and able mechanics to deal with problem chains and derailers. Itineraries are set at different levels, from easy to challenging, and some companies provide bikes, while others ask that you bring your own wheels to keep costs down. For biking tours, consider specialist operators like Bike China Adventures who are based in Chengdu, Bike Shanghai and Cycle China. In rural areas, renting a bike for a day or two is the best way to see sights just outside of town and get a feel for countryside life. There are plenty of bike-hire shops in most places, and many hotels can also arrange bike rental. In cities remember to park in designated areas (retain the token) and keep to cycle lanes where possible.
quan during the 6th century. The temple is surrounded by kung fu schools, which have courses that range from a week to six months or longer. The less wellknown monastery on Wudang Shan in Hubei (see p278), said to be the home of tai ji quan, also has schools of martial arts. Most forms of kung fu taught in China are watered-down versions of the original martial forms, which have become popular and effective ways to keep fit. If you are looking for pure fighting technique, you may have more luck overseas, or possibly, in Hong Kong. In Beijing, Shanghai, and other big cities, courses are advertized in listings magazines, but although there are plenty of sports institutes in China with classes, you may have difficulty finding an English-speaking instructor. Head to one of the traveler havens, such as Yangshuo, Dali, or Lijiang, and you are certain to find capable instruction in English. Of course, you can always try joining the leagues
Climbing Most of China’s sacred and scenic mountains, such as Tai Shan and Huang Shan, have steps, cable cars, and crowds all the way to the summit. Some of the mountains have less-used paths that make for pleasant hiking, but if you are a serious mountaineer, you will need to head to western China. The true roof of the world awaits in Tibet – topping Mount Everest will require patience and official approval, but treks to Everest base camp in the Rongbuk Valley are offered by several travel operators. Other spectacular climbs include Gongga Shan in Sichuan and also Muztaghata in Xinjiang (an easier climb and you can ski down), but, again, seek permission first. More feasible is rock climbing at Yangshuo in Guangxi, where the limestone crags that inspired poets down the centuries now inspire climbers up the peaks. Asia’s fastest developing sport climbing area combines a wide range
Martial Arts China attracts thousands of martial arts enthusiasts hoping to find the roots to their practice. Many head for famous Shaolin Temple in Henan (see p164), where Bodhidarma is said to have first taught the monks exercises that developed into shaolin
A class of soon-to-be kung fu masters, Shaolin Temple, Henan
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Panda at the Breeding Center near Chengdu
of climbs with beautiful views, winding rivers and great accommodations. A few intrepid spelunkers have been exploring the extensive karst cave network of Guangxi. A small industry of caving tours has developed, although, for the most part, the itineraries are geared to the experienced spelunker.
Trekking & Camping The fascinating southwest offers some of the best trekking possibilities in the country, such as exploring the jungle of Xishuangbanna or visiting remote Tibetan monasteries. Horse-riding trips are possible
in the heavenly mountains of Xinjiang and the national parks of Sichuan. Check with specialist tour companies and the Northwest Yunnan Ecotourism Association. Whitewater rafting trips are popular in the southwest and in Tibet. If you are thinking of signing up, check the company’s credentials and past history, and ensure that high-quality helmets, lifejackets, and, if necessary, wetsuits are provided. Camping independently in China is tricky, and not recommended. However, the lack of legal camping facilities may be about to change, because caravan culture has just reached China. RVing is still in its birthing stages and as the industry develops, trailer parks and camp grounds are certain to appear. Restrictions on foreign drivers mean that motorhoming is not yet an option for non-residents.
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Spot a panda at the Wolong Nature Reserve (see p375) or in the Breeding Center (see p366), where efforts are made to conserve the threatened species. Bird-watching tours head to Qinghai province for Bird Island on Qinghai Hu (see p503), and to parks such as Zhalong National Reserve (see p458), in the northeastern province of Heilongjiang, and Xixi Wetlands Park near Hangzhou, a natural sanctuary for birds and wildlife. China’s environment was savaged in the 20th century by political campaigns to move mountains with manpower; in the 21st, rampant economic growth threatens both biodiversity and cultural diversity, and conservation efforts are growing to save China’s unique wildlife and ways of life. To support a responsible approach to tourism and the environment, consider tours and ecolodges offered by organizations such as the Northwest Yunnan Ecotourism Association, based near Lijiang in Yunnan.
DIRECTORY Sports Basketball ∑ nbachina.com
Formula One ∑ icsh.sh.cn
Rugby ∑ hkrugby.com
Soccer ∑ sinosoc.com
Tennis ∑ chinaopen.com.cn ∑ rolexmasters.com
Golf HSBC Champions Golf ∑ hsbcgolf.com
Mission Hills 1 Mission Hills Road, Shenzhen. Tel (0755) 2802 0888. 1 Mission Hills Blvd, Haikou. Tel (0898) 6868 3888. ∑ missionhillschina. com
Spring City
Bespoke Beijing
Wild China
Tangchi, Yilang, Yunnan, PRC 652103. Tel (0871) 6767 1188. ∑ springcity resort.com
B510, 107 Dongsi Bei Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Tel (010) 6400 0133. ∑ bespoke-beijing. com
Room 803 Oriental Palace, 9 East Dongfang Road, North Dongganhuan Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Tel (010) 6465 6602. ∑ wildchina.com
Mongol Global Tours
Cycle Tours
California, USA 90630. Tel 866 225 0577. ∑ mongolglobal tours.com
Bike China Adventures
Downhill Skiing Yabuli 100 miles (160 km) east of Harbin, Heilongjiang. Tel (0451) 5345 8888. ∑ yabuliski.com
Tour Companies Abercrombie & Kent ∑ abercrombie
kent.com In the US: 1520 Kensington Road, Suite 212, Oak Brook, IL 60523-2156. Tel 1-800 554 7016. In the UK: 80–82 Cheapside, London EC2V 6EB. Tel (0845) 485 1532.
Myths & Mountains Nevada, USA 89451. Tel 1-800 670 6984. ∑ journeystochina. com
6 Yi Guan Miao Fang Cao Jie, Wangfu Huayuan 64-1-17, Chengdu. Tel 1-800 818 1778. ∑ bikechina.com
Bike Shanghai ∑ bikeshanghai.com
Steppes Travel
Cycle China
51 Castle St, Cirencester, Gloucestershire, UK GL7 1QD. Tel (01285) 880 980. ∑ steppestravel.co.uk
∑ cyclechina.com
Tibetan Connections
Tel (0139) 8882 6672. ∑ northwestyunnan. com
∑ tibetanconnections.
com
Ecotourism Northwest Yunnan Ecotourism Assoc.
SURVIVAL GUIDE Practical Information
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Travel Information
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PRACTICAL INFORMATION China is going through an explosion in both international and domestic tourism. While there have been gradual improvements in the quality of tourist services, some of the remoter sights can still be difficult to reach independently, and most accessible sights get very crowded, especially during the summer season. Due to the absence of a nationwide non-profit network of tourist information centers, visitors often have to rely on hotels for guidance. In the larger
When to Go Although there are great climatic disparities within China, spring and fall are generally the best months to travel. The peak tourist season, however, is during summer (June to September), best avoided if you don’t like the heat – it is baking hot in North China, steamy in the Yangzi region, and sweltering in South China. Winter is fiercely cold in North China, particularly in the northeast. Winters in South China are more pleasant, especially on the perennially warm Hainan Island and parts of Yunnan province. Climate and rainfall charts are found on pages 54–5. Planning a trip to coincide with the holiday and festival periods (see pp50–53) can lead to a fun and colorful trip experiencing China at its liveliest. However, tickets for air, train, and bus transport can be very difficult to acquire,
cities the tourist infrastructure, including transportation, hotels, and restaurants, is on a par with international standards. The remoter areas, however, provide fairly basic accommodations and may not be equipped to cater to the needs of the international tourist. Communication also poses difficulties, as English is not spoken widely and its usage is generally restricted to major cities, tour groups, four- and five-star hotels, and restaurants catering to tourists.
as half of China will be traveling as well. Tourist sights are swamped with local sightseers, and most hotels and guesthouses raise their rates.
What to Take The clothes you need will depend on the time of year that you visit. In northern China, from November until March, you will require a down jacket, gloves, sweater, warm socks, thermal leggings, sturdy footwear, and lip balm. During the same season in the south, you still need a sweater and warm clothes, even as far south as Hong Kong. In summer, across most of China, you only need loose-fitting shirts or t-shirts, and thin trousers. Shorts will also do, though not many Chinese wear them. Bring a first-aid kit (see p606), raincoat, sun hat, deodorant, pocket knife, flashlight, and some good reading material.
Temperate weather at a tea garden in Chengdu Night-time view of highway junction in Guangzhou
Advance Booking The boom in domestic tourism means it is advisable to book ahead year-round, but especially during the peak holiday periods between May 1 and October 1, and the Chinese New Year. Booking in advance using the Internet can secure you good deals on accommodations. Unless traveling on short intercity routes, train tickets should be bought a few days before travel, as seats can be in short supply. Train tickets can only be purchased up to five days in advance of the day of travel. Bus tickets need not be booked in advance, but airplane tickets should be, especially during major holiday periods.
Visas & Passports A passport, valid for at least six months, and a visa are necessary to enter the People’s Republic of China. Most foreign nationals don’t require a visa for entering Hong Kong and Macau but will need one if traveling on to mainland China. Chinese embassies and consulates around the world issue a standard single-entry, 30-day visa, although multipleentry visas, and 60-day visas can also be obtained, depending on the purpose of your visit. Visas cannot be issued at the border. When completing the visa application form, you must clearly specify what parts of China you plan to visit. Avoid mentioning Tibet, or Xinjiang, even if you plan to visit these
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Customs Information regions, as you may be DIRECTORY questioned about your occuWhen entering China, visitors China International pation and intent of visit – the are entitled to a duty-free Travel Service (CITS) list you provide is non-binding. allowance of 70 fluid ounces Always carry your passport, as (2 liters) of wine or spirits, 400 ∑ cits.net it is an essential document for cigarettes, and a certain amount Beijing checking into hotels, and the of gold and silver. Foreign 1 Dongdan Beidajie. Public Security Bureau (see currency exceeding US$5,000, or Tel (010) 6522 2991. p604) may insist on seeing its equivalent, must be declared. Dalian it. Photocopying the visa Items that are prohibited include Central Plaza Hotel, page and the personal fresh fruit, rare animals 145 Zhongshan Lu. information page will and plants, and arms and Tel (0411) 8368 7843. speed up replacement in ammunition. Chinese law case your passport is lost specifies limits on the Guangzhou or stolen. Visa extensions export of certain items, 185 Huanshi Xi Lu. Tel (020) 8666 6889. are sometimes granted such as herbal medicines. for 30 days by the foreign Also, objects pre-dating Shanghai affairs branch of local 1795 cannot be taken 1277 Beijing Xi Lu. Shang-dynasty PSBs throughout the out of China, while Tel (021) 6289 8899. bronze tripod country. Note that antiques made after Suzhou heavy fines are levied that date will need to 251 Ganjiang Xi Lu. if you overstay your permitted have an official seal affixed. Tel (0512) 6515 1369. period in China. Although foreign visitors are Xi’an largely left alone, it is not 50 Chang’an Bei Lu. advisable to take in politically Permits Tel (029) 8524 1864. controversial literature, especially to sensitive areas such as Tibet Some areas of China are either where there have been instances totally or partially off-limits, of books being confiscated. and may require a permit from the PSB, include Lushun (Liaoning), Xanadu (Inner Immunization loss of baggage, tickets, and, to Mongolia), and parts of a certain extent, cash and Shennongjia (Hubei). Check Ensure that all of your routine checks. However, before signing with the PSB before going to vaccinations, such as tetanus western Sichuan, where the and polio, are up to date. It is also an insurance policy, look for one that excludes coverages you will rules of access are not fixed. wise to get vaccinated against not require during your stay in All travel to Tibet has to be hepatitis A and B, and typhoid. China. Insurance is also essential arranged beforehand through Only visitors traveling from to cover any adventure activity a travel agency in China that countries where yellow fever is or sport that you may undertake will arrange a permit for you. endemic must provide proof during your trip. If you want to travel outside of vaccination against the of Lhasa, the agency will have disease. Malaria to arrange a tour guide, private medication is a good vehicle and driver, and any idea for those visiting additional permits. It is easiest rural areas, especially to arrange this from Xining Yunnan and Hainan, as or Chengdu. is a Japanese encephalitis vaccination. Try www. mdtravehealth.com for Embassies & Consulates up-to-date travel-health information and advice Most countries have embassies on immunization. in Beijing and consulates in Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Guangzhou, and to a lesser Insurance extent, in Chengdu, Chongqing, Qingdao, and Dalian. It is advisable to take out Consular offices can re-issue an insurance policy for passports and assist in case medical emergencies of emergencies, such as as well as theft before theft, imprisonment, and leaving home, checking hospitalization. Your hotel can with your insurance put you in touch with your company that it is Classic tai hu rock formations lining the shore in Yu embassy or consulate, or try entirely valid in China. www.travelchinaguide.com. The policy will cover the Yuan (Jade Garden), Shanghai
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Tourist Information
Language still encounter a foreign visitor surcharge. Most sights, such as The official language of China is parks and temples, simply have Putonghua (literally “common a main ticket for entry (men tongue”), based on the dialect piao), but further tickets may spoken in Beijing, and known need to be purchased for access outside China as Mandarin to individual sights within the Chinese. Putonghua doesn’t complex. Alternatively, a specifically belong to any one “through ticket” (tao piao) can region, and is used across the be bought for access to all country for communication the sights. between Occasionally speakers of there are furChina’s numther fees for erous dialects. storing bags. Unlike other The sale of dialects, such Road sign in both pinyin tickets often as Cantonese, and Chinese characters ceases half an Putonghua hour or so before the sight can be used throughout China. closes for the day. Guides swarm Since the vast majority of around entrances to major Chinese people do not sights and will latch onto you, understand English, it is largely even if you’re not interested. It is useless for communication wise to test their English first, as outside of hotels. The tonal many just repeat fixed lines, nature of Putonghua makes it difficult for English speakers to parrot fashion, relating to the sight in question, and are unable become accustomed to the language. Pinyin, a romanization to answer further queries. Admission Charges system, helps in the recognition of sounds and has diacritical Virtually every sight in Holidays & Opening marks to indicate tone. A few China carries an admission fee. basic phrases in Putonghua are While many major museums are Hours listed on pages 656–60. now free to enter, most temples Even though New Year’s day and parks, smaller museums, (January 1) is a public holiday palaces, historical monuments, in China, the main holiday Facilities for the Disabled sacred mountains, and wildlife periods are during the Lunar reserves can only be entered New Year (Spring Festival) If you are a wheelchair user, after paying a fee. While temples and October 1 (National Day) China is not a recommended charge anything from ¥5 to ¥80, holidays (the May holiday is destination for you. With the prices of all other entry tickets just a single day). Each holiday exception of Hong Kong and, vary. It is often hard to see period officially lasts three days, to some extent, Macau, China where the money goes as although most businesses and offers very basic facilities for the many of China’s temples and banks remain shut for seven disabled, both in public transmonuments appear severely days. Accommodation prices port and accommodation. neglected. Non-Chinese visitors rise as domestic tourism peaks. Public buildings and places of often have to pay a higher Tourist sights, however, remain interest are rarely fitted with admission charge, and you may open during these times. ramps or rails, although this is slowly improving. Many of the pavements in urban areas are littered with obstacles and occasional potholes, and have high curbs, making wheelchair access troublesome. The scarcity of safe crossing points on urban roads drives pedestrians onto overhead walkways; otherwise they have to join the crowds surging through the traffic. Rooms with services for disabled visitors are only available at the better hotels, although elevators are common in most hotels over three stories high. Façade of the impressive Shaanxi History Museum, Xi’an
With the exception of the major cities, China has yet to recognize the value of professional Tourist Information Centers, either at home or abroad. Those that exist in Beijing and Shanghai are often under-funded, poorly staffed, and unreliable, although they are useful for obtaining free maps. The state-approved China International Travel Service (CITS) (see p599), originally set up to cater to the needs of foreign visitors, today functions as any other local operator, offering nothing more than tours, tickets, and rented cars. A limited choice of government-run travel agencies abroad promote China tourism. However, they fail to offer professional and unbiased advice, instead steering customers toward group tours and standard hotels.
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Facilities for Children The Chinese love children, and they are usually welcome everywhere in China. Even though baby-changing rooms are extremely rare, and very few restaurants have child seats, traveling with very young children can have its advantages as people will generally go out of their way to accommodate you in most places and situations. Supermarkets are well supplied with diapers, baby wipes, bottles, creams, medicine, clothing, infant milk formula, and baby food. However, the baby food is of a sweeter variety and nearly always processed. The Chinese very rarely give pacifiers to their children, but you can find them in department stores in larger cities. Also bring a set of plastic cutlery for your child, as some restaurants and eating places only have chopsticks.
Photography
Children with their parents enjoying a meal
around. Photographing politically-sensitive images may result in the confiscation of your film and it goes without saying that photography of military sites is banned. As far as the regulations go, photography from aircrafts is banned, and so is taking photographs of airports, harbors, and railroads. However, barring the military installations, most of the other restrictions are seldom enforced. If you are discreet and respectful, then you should encounter no problems.
Everyone in urban China uses smartphone or digital cameras now, so film-developing stores are, as elsewhere, a novelty Electricity rather than the norm. While 35mm color print film is The electrical current in China is available almost everywhere, 220 volts. You will see a variety don’t expect to find color slide of plugs in China, including two or high-speed film outside of flat prongs (the same as the large cities. Camera American plugs), or batteries are widely three flat prongs (the available in department same as Australian stores in big cities, ones). The British three though it is best to square-pin arrangebring your own supply. ment is rare outside Many photo stores in of smart hotels, so it Plugs with two Hong Kong, Macau, is advisable to carry and three prongs and mainland China a travel conversion provide transferring of plug, readily available images from a digital camera in most of the larger cities. A onto a disc. power-surge cable will protect Photographing people in laptops against voltage fluctuaChina is generally not a tions, which are common in problem, but it helps to first China. It is best to avoid cheap ask for their permission. batteries, as they are very shortPhotography is rarely allowed lived. Instead, buy a battery within temple halls and charger and rechargeable museums, or at archeological batteries, which can be easily sites, and signs indicate where found in most Chinese stores. photography is not permitted. Blackouts are not unheard of In case you don’t find a sign in China, so, given the erratic with such restrictions marked powercuts, it is wise to carry in English, it is advisable to ask a flashlight.
Time & Calendar Despite its size, China occupies only one time zone, and there is no daylight saving time. Midday in Beijing is also midday in far-flung parts of China, including Lhasa and Ürümqi, which are along the same latitude as countries that are two and three hours behind China. China time is seven or eight hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), two or three hours behind Australian Eastern Standard Time, 15 or 16 hours ahead of US Pacific Standard Time, and 12 or 13 hours ahead of US Eastern Standard Time. The Western Gregorian Calendar is used for all official work, although the lunar calendar is still used for calculating the dates of festivals.
Measurements & Conversion Charts The metric system is most commonly used in all parts of China. Imperial to Metric 1 inch = 2.5 centimeters 1 foot = 30 centimeters 1 mile = 1.6 kilometers 1 ounce = 28 grams 1 pound = 454 grams 1 pint (US) = 0.473 liters 1 gallon (US) = 3.785 liters Metric to Imperial 1 centimeter = 0.4 inches 1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches 1 kilometer = 0.6 miles 100 gram = 3.53 ounces 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds 1 liter = 2.11 pints (US)
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Etiquette Despite rampant modernization, China remains a traditional society governed by strong family values. Although the cities and towns give the outward impression of Western modernity, their inhabitants retain a deep-seated and family-oriented conservatism. Confucian values promote respect for elders and those in positions of authority, and reinforce notions of conformity. Religious observance is also an important part of people’s lives, but is largely separate from mainstream social behavior. The Chinese are, above all, welcoming and generous, and visitors are often amazed at their hospitality. If invited to someone’s home, a gift of chocolates, French wine, or a carton of cigarettes will be greatly appreciated.
Greeting People While shaking hands is not customary in China, Chinese men may shake your hand or expect their hand to be shaken by foreign visitors. Although the Chinese are not particularly tactile in their greetings, bodily contact is quite common between friends, even of the same sex. It is quite common to see young men and women walking arm in arm, or with their arm around another’s shoulder. The usual Chinese greeting is ni hao (how are you?) or nimen hao in its plural form, to which you reply ni hao or nimen hao – the polite form is nin/ninmen hao. Chinese people can be very direct, and will not blanch at asking you how much you earn, how old you are, or whether you are married. Such questions are seen as nothing more than taking a friendly interest in a new acquaintance. When proffering business cards, the Chinese do so politely, using the fingertips of both hands, and receive cards
in the same manner. It is a good idea to take some business cards, with your particulars in Chinese on one side and in English on the reverse, as there will be many occasions to give them away.
and women sunbathing topless are rarely seen as Chinese beach culture is quite modest.
Face Reserved in manner and expression, the Chinese also harbor strong feelings of personal pride and respect. The maintenance of pride and the avoidance of shame is known as saving face. Loss of face (mianzi) creates great discomfort and embarrassment for the Chinese, so although you may often be frustrated by bureaucratic redtape and delays, remember that arguing may make matters worse. Instead, try tackling difficult situations by being firm but polite, and use confrontation only as a last resort.
Places of Worship Body Language
Although there are no dress codes for Once they reach the Buddhist, Daoist, or age of 30 or 40, the Confucian temples, Chinese tend to dress visitors to mosques conservatively, should dress respectfully favoring dark and – avoid wearing shorts inconspicuous colors or short skirts – and such as brown and cover their upper arms. black. In cities and Buddhist, Daoist, and towns, people wear Confucian temples are jeans, t-shirts, and relaxed about visitors skirts, and many wandering about, but youngsters also dye Advice for do be considerate their hair. Locals burning incense toward worshipers. Also, expect foreign visitors check whether you can to dress and behave a take photographs within temple little flamboyantly, so don’t worry too much about what you halls, as this is often not permitted. Taking photographs wear, but try to avoid looking in courtyards, however, is usually scruffy. It is also acceptable for both sexes to wear shorts in hot not a problem. Some Buddhist and Daoist temples are active, weather. On the beach, nudity and you should show respect towards the resident monks.
Dos & Don’ts
The courtyard of the Jade Buddha Temple in Shanghai
If invited out for dinner, expect to see the diners competing to pay the entire bill, rather than dividing it up between them. It is a good idea to join in the scramble for the bill, or at least make an attempt – your gesture will be appreciated, though almost certainly declined. The Chinese avoid talking about politics; it is best to follow suit.
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Annoyances The Chinese habit of staring, especially in smaller towns and rural areas, can be a little annoying. However, the intent is rarely hostile. Staring was common even in Beijing until the 1990s, and although it is rare in cities today, it helps to remember that China was closed to foreign nationals until the early 1980s. Another annoyance that visitors face in smaller towns are the constant calls of “Hellooo!” or laowai (foreigner). It is best to either ignore them or smile, as Bric-à-brac to be haggled over on display at a street market in Tianjin saying hello often results in Tipping bursts of laughter. In large carriages. The Chinese are cities, people often strike up very generous when it comes Tipping is rare in China – there conversation to practice their to offering cigarettes, so is no obligation to leave a tip English. Sometimes, art students remember to be equally (xiaofei) and people don’t try and coerce you into visiting generous in return. They also usually expect one. Some over-priced art galleries, which enjoy drinking alcohol, and smarter restaurants, especially you should firmly decline to do. there is no taboo against in Hong Kong, Macau, and the Although line-ups are moderate intoxication. main Chinese cities, include a beginning to replace the The usual accompaniment service charge on the bill. usual mêlée at ticket offices, during a meal is beer (pijiu), be prepared for a lot of or white spirit (baijiu). Begging pushing and shoving. People in cities are Since the outbreak of increasingly drinking China’s imbalanced economic SARS in 2002, public wine, and it is available progress and huge population health organizations in most large of rural poor have resulted in have made considsupermarkets. If large numbers of beggars all erable efforts to curb someone raises a toast over the country, especially in the habit of spitting. to you (ganbei!), it is cities. Foreign visitors naturally It is still widespread, good form for you attract their attention, and however, especially in to toast the person groups of children are often A spirit consumed at rural areas. Spitting is back at a later stage. sent by their parents to extract business banquets common on buses money. The best strategy is to and trains, and it is not ignore them and walk away. Bargaining considered rude to spit in mid-conversation, so do not As a foreign national in China, it take offense. is essential to bargain (jiangjia). You may often be overcharged – sometimes by large amounts – Smoking & Alcohol in markets and anywhere else where prices are not indiSmoking is now banned in cated. In some restaurants, public places in China, such the English menu has more as restaurants, hotels, railway expensive rates than the Chinese stations and theaters. However, one. You may be able to bargain as the world’s largest producer to reduce your hotel room-rate, and consumer of cigarettes especially during the low season. (xiangyan), these rules are When bargaining, there is no difficult to enforce in China. need to be aggressive. Instead, Despite the appearance of firmly state your price – which no-smoking zones, many should never be unrealistic – and people choose to ignore them, walk away if the vendor doesn’t and towns and cities remain agree. Shopkeepers will often shrouded in a haze of cigarette agree to the price once they smoke. Many business owners realize they’re losing a potential resent banning their customers from smoking on their premises. sale. The prices in large shops and government emporia (guoying Smoking is also banned on A beggar in Lhasa with colorful shangdian) are usually fixed. domestic flights and in train Buddhist regalia
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Personal Security & Health The Police Force in China is called the Public Security Bureau (gonganju), abbreviated to PSB. Foreign nationals are unlikely to encounter the PSB, unless extending their visa, applying for a permit to a restricted area, or reporting loss or theft. China is a police state, so the PSB is riddled with corruption and overwhelming bureaucracy. Not all police stations (paichusuo) have English-speaking staff, so try to take along an interpreter if reporting a crime, although it is best to contact your embassy or consulate first for guidance. Throughout mainland China, call 110 for the police. Protect your valuables and important documents at all times, stay and eat in clean places, and drink only mineral water. For medical attention, it is better to opt for a private clinic rather than one of the many government hospitals.
Crowds in the busy shopping district of Causeway Bay, Hong Kong
General Precautions Traveling in China is generally safe. Even though crime has burgeoned since the 1980s economic liberalization, with millions of unemployed migrants flocking to the cities, foreign visitors are unlikely to be the victims of crime, apart from petty theft. Tourists on buses and trains, particularly those in the hard-seat class (see p617) and on overnight journeys, are tempting targets for thieves. Guard your camera and valuables, wear a money belt at all times, and secure your luggage to the rack on overnight train journeys. Hotels are, more or less, a lot more secure than dormitories,
Security Hosting the Olympics saw China upgrade security at airports, railway and metro stations, and at some sights, but it is rarely intrusive. At certain sights, you will be asked to deposit your bag before making a visit. Always carry your passport with you for identification.
Women Travelers China is usually regarded as a very safe destination for women. In general, Chinese men are respectful toward women, and it is unlikely for them to experience any serious form of sexual harassment. That said, never take your safety for granted. Traveling in a group is always wiser, as lone travelers are more likely to be mugged or assaulted. However, if you do travel alone, stay on your guard when visiting rural and far-flung areas, and avoid wandering about alone in quiet and deserted places, especially after dark. As far as clothing goes, it is best to observe the clothing and behavior of local women, and adapt as closely as possible. It helps to dress modestly, especially in Muslim regions and rural areas. If possible, avoid hotel dormitories and opt for single rooms in hotels located near the center of town on well-lit streets. To avert an undesirable encounter, carry a whistle or learn a few basic self-defense moves.
even though it is not unusual for things to go missing from hotel rooms. You could use the safes or storage areas that most hotels offer, but if you do so, insist on a receipt. If staying in a dormitory, never leave your essentials and important documents lying around, and be cautious about giving too many details to fellow travelers. When walking in crowded streets, avoid wearing anything expensive or eye-catching, and keep your wallet in the bottom of your bag, but never in a backpack. Be discreet when taking out your wallet; it is best to carry only as much cash as you need for the day. Keep an eye on your belongings while visiting public washrooms, as quite a few travelers have had very unpleasant experiences. Keep cash, traveler’s Gay and Lesbian checks, passport, and Travelers visa documents in a money belt – ones The gay and lesbian that lie flat and are scenes in China’s main meant to be worn cities, in particular under clothing are Shanghai, Beijing, and best. Also, remember Hong Kong, are growing to make photocopies and diversifying, with of the personal clubs, bars, and venues information and China increasing in number. visa pages of your However, China is still passport and any a highly conventional other important society, and homodocuments and store sexuality is largely them separately disapproved of and from the originals. Beijing PSB officer misunderstood.
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Public Bathrooms of institution, you will be expected to pay cash at the Public bathrooms are time of being admitted. typically of the squat variety Pharmacies (yaodian), and are squalid, filthy, and identified by green crosses, are rarely cleaned, unless watched found all over China. Many of over by an attendant. There is them stock both Western little privacy – medicine (xi yao) and doorless cubiChinese medicine (zhong cles, separated yao), and can treat you by low walls, for minor injuries or are the norm. ailments. Take adequate Sign pointing the way Toilet paper is a Hospitals & Medical supplies of any rarity – don’t forget to the facilities Facilities prescription drugs you to carry your own require, and also remember to supply. Toilet paper should It is important to take out take the chemical – not brand – be put in the receptacle, if comprehensive medical name of all prescriptions, in provided, rather than down insurance before arriving in case you need to restock. In the toilet, as septic systems are China. China’s state hospitals large cities such as Beijing and often unable to handle paper vary considerably in quality; Shanghai, prescriptions may products. You will be expected the better-equipped hospitals not be required for a range of to pay a few jiao for using the (yiyuan) can be found in the medicines, including antibiotics facilities. Use hotel and fast-food cities and large towns, but and sleeping pills. restaurant bathrooms whenever even at the best, Some large hotels have inyou get the opportunity. communication can be house clinics to help problematic. Cities guests with diagnosis, with large expatriate Hygiene Tips medical assistance, communities have and prescriptions. private hospitals, The rigors of travel require a few Large modern where there are extra hygiene considerations. hotels may also be exclusive clinics with Carry a small bar of handsoap able to provide a English-speaking or a tube of concentrated Chinese speaker Distinctive green cross staff to attend to camping soap with you all the to accompany you of a pharmacy non-Chinese visitors. time. A packet of wet wipes to the hospital. Consider contacting always comes in handy. Those interested in traditional your embassy for a list of Warts are easily picked up Chinese medicine (see p238) for approved hospitals. In general, from poorly cleaned shower treating chronic ailments can medical services are reasonably stalls. You will often find a pair visit the traditional institutes cheap throughout China, but of flip-flops under your hotel attached to local hospitals and many hospitals may levy a bed. These are meant to be medical colleges. Some hotels, certain amount of “foreigner worn in the shower, but you too, offer traditional Chinese surcharge” that could ensure might consider packing a pair treatments. better care. Whatever the type of your own. Homosexuality is legal, but there are no laws to protect gays, and police periodically crack down on meeting places. Even in cities, it is inadvisable for gays and lesbians to be open with their sexuality, despite the tactile relationship many Chinese have with friends of the same sex.
DIRECTORY In an Emergency Tel Police 110. Tel Fire 119. Tel Ambulance 120.
Hospital & Medical Facilities Beijing Hong Kong International Medical Clinic, 9th floor, Office Tower, Hong Kong Macau Center, Swissotel, 2 Chaoyang Men Bei Dajie. Tel (010) 6553 2288. ∑ hkclinic.com
Shanghai
Ireland
Parkway Health, 203/4 West Retail Plaza, Shanghai Center, 1376 Nanjing West Road. Tel (021) 6445 5999. ∑ parkwayhealth.cn
3 Ritan Dong Lu. Tel (010) 6532 2691.
Can-Am International Medical Center, 5th floor, Garden Tower, Garden Hotel, 368 Huanshi Dong Lu. Tel (020) 8386 6988. ∑ canamhealthcare. com
Embassies in Beijing
USA
Hong Kong
Canada
Queen Elizabeth Hospital, 30 Gascoigne Rd, Yau Ma Tei. Tel (0852) 2958 8888.
19 Dongzhi Men Wai Dajie. Tel (010) 5139 4000.
International SOS, Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, 16 Xin Yuan Li, Chaoyang. Clinic appts: Tel (010) 6462 9112. ∑ internationalsos.com
Guangzhou
United Kingdom 11 Guanghua Lu. Tel (010) 5192 4000. 55 Anjia Loulu. Tel (010) 8531 4000.
Australia 21 Dongzhi Men Wai Dajie. Tel (010) 5140 4111.
Travel Health Masta Tel 0870 606 2782. ∑ masta.org
MD Travel Health ∑ mdtravelhealth.com
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Stomach Upsets & Diarrhea
Sitting in the shade at the Botanical Gardens, Hangzhou, Zhejiang
Heat, Humidity & Pollution
and travelers to Tibet and other mountainous regions must be prepared for sudden changes During summer, it is hot all in temperature. A waterproof across China. If you’re traveling and windproof layer is vital in during this time drink plenty of cold conditions, as is adequate fluids to prevent dehydration, warm clothing, including thick and increase your intake of salt socks, boots, jacket, gloves, to compensate its loss through and most importantly, a hat. sweating. Wear loose-fitting The symptoms of hypothermia cotton clothing and sandals, – shivering, dizziness, exhausremember to bring a sunhat tion, and irrational behavior – and sunglasses, and use are brought on by prolonplenty of sunscreen. ged exposure to the cold. Most hotels, except the Be aware of fingers and very cheapest, have toes going white or rooms equipped with numb, the first indiair-conditioning, cations of frost and virtually all bite, and rub restaurants are air them vigorously conditioned as A motorcyclist wrapped if they do. well. Prolonged up against pollution exposure to the sun can cause heat First-aid Kit stroke, a serious condition with high body temperature, severe Organize a basic first-aid kit, headaches, and disorientation. which should include all To avoid heat rashes and personal medication, aspirin or fungal infections caused by painkillers for fevers and minor humidity, wear clean, loose aches and pains, tablets for clothes made of natural fibers, nausea and movement sickness, and open sandals. antiseptic cream for cuts and Many of China’s cities, including bites, an antifungal ointment, Beijing, experience chronic levels Band-Aids, gauze and tensor of atmospheric pollution. This bandages, a pair of scissors, aggravates chest infections, and insect repellent, and tweezers. asthmatic travelers should always Also carry antihistamines for carry their own medication. allergies, anti-diarrhea tablets, water purification tablets, disposable syringes, oral Cold & Hypothermia rehydration solution, and a thermometer. Taking a supply Winter can be severe through of antibiotics is a good idea. most of north China. HighMost of these items are readily altitude travel in particular can available at Chinese pharmacies. expose you to extreme cold,
Usually caused by a change of diet, water, and climate, diarrhea is common among visitors. Chinese food, which can be quite oily and spicy, does require some getting used to for many people. If the change of diet is affecting you, stick to Western food and simple boiled food, such as plain rice, until the diarrhea subsides. Most importantly, drink lots of fluids, as diarrhea quickly leads to dehydration – oral rehydration solution (ORS) is an effective remedy. If you do not have any ORS, stir half a teaspoon of salt and three teaspoons of honey or sugar into a mug of boiled water. To decrease your chances of stomach upset, avoid raw salads, cut fruit, cold cuts, roadside kabobs, fresh juice, and yogurt. It is important to avoid drinking tap water even in big cities, apart from Hong Kong. Drink boiled water, or bottled mineral water after checking that the seal is intact. Most international brands of carbonated drinks are widely available. Although street food can look tempting, it is safer to abstain unless it is hot and freshly cooked in front of you. A good pharmacist can recommend standard diarrhea medication, such as Imodium, though if the attack is severe, it is best to consult a doctor. A popular and effective Chinese medicine for upset stomachs is Huangliansu.
SARS & Flu In 2003, severe acute respiratory syndrome (SARS) spread throughout China and then to Toronto, Canada. China managed to contain the disease with a strict identification and quarantine program. Since then, there have only been minor, localized outbreaks of the disease. Another SARS outbreak is unlikely, but should one occur, do not travel to the affected area. Bird flu, or avian influenza, is a serious problem in east Asia, but unlikely to affect travelers. Do not visit any poultry farms,
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may even want to bring your own disposable syringe for the doctor to use. Any procedure using needles, such as tattooing or ear-piercing, is best avoided.
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long period and likely to come into contact with animals. Do not have this vaccine, unless advised by your doctor.
Insect-borne Diseases Water-borne Diseases Visitors must be on their guard against dysentery. Bacillary dysentery is accompanied by severe stomach pains, vomiting and fever, whereas A food stall with a tempting but amoebic dysentery has similar risky display symptoms but takes longer to avoid birds at outdoor markets, manifest. Vaccination against and eat only poultry and Hepatitis A is advisable before eggs that have been leaving home, especially if thoroughly cooked. you plan to visit rural areas. Other water-borne diseases, In 2009, China underwent such as cholera and a mass vaccination typhoid, can also be program against swine prevented with vaccines. flu (H1N1) for at-risk Schistosomiasis (bilharzia), individuals (such as a disease caused by a young children and water-borne parasitic pregnant women). The worm found in south World Health Organisation and central China, can (WHO) provides up-tobe avoided by not date information on swimming in fresh water. serious diseases. If you Drink bottled mineral develop symptoms of Bottled pneumonia or flu after mineral water water at all times, and avoid ice cubes. your trip, see your physician immediately.
Rabies Sexually Transmitted & Other Infectious Diseases After years of denial, Chinese authorities have begun to publicly admit to the alarming spread of HIV – the virus that causes Acquired Immune Deficiency Syndrome (AIDS) – via unprotected sex, drug use, and infected blood banks. Nonetheless, considerable ignorance about the disease and its prevention still exists in rural areas, and most prostitutes working in the cities are from rural China. Long-term visitors to China are screened for HIV infection. Hepatitis B, also transmitted through contact with infected blood, is spread through sexual contact, unsterilized needles, tattoos, and shaves from roadside barbers. However, it can be prevented with a vaccine. When visiting a clinic, ensure that the doctor opens a new syringe in front of you. You
The deadly rabies virus is spread via the bite of an infected animal. If you are bitten, clean the bite with an antiseptic solution, and seek medical help at once. Treatment involves a course of injections. A rabies vaccine is only necessary if you are visiting high-risk areas for a
Mosquitos are rife during the summer in China. In the southern part of the country, mosquitos can carry a number of diseases. If you are visiting an area with a high risk of malaria, take preventive antimalarial drugs before, during, and after your trip. Contact MASTA (Medical Advisory Services for Travellers Abroad) and check the MD Travel Health website (see p605) for information on malaria medication. Dengue fever and Japanese B encephalitis are also carried by mosquitos. To guard against mosquito bites, apply mosquito repellent, and wear clothes that cover as much of your arms and legs as possible.
Altitude Sickness A lack of sufficient oxygen at altitudes higher than 8,000 ft (2,500 m) can cause attacks of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) – severe headaches, dizziness, and loss of appetite. If these symptoms persist beyond 48 hours, you must descend to a lower altitude immediately and seek medical help. To avoid altitude sickness ascend slowly, drink plenty of fluids, and avoid alcohol and sedatives.
Trekking at high altitudes on Chomolungma (Mount Everest)
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Banking & Local Currency China provides a wide range of banking facilities and money exchange services, which are available in large cities, international airports, major banks, and top-end hotels. Always keep some cash to hand for transport, restaurants, and purchases, as traveler’s checks and credit cards cannot be used everywhere, especially in rural areas. ATMs that accept international cards are easy to find in all major cities. Foreign banks like Citi, HSBC, and Standard Chartered are expanding their branch networks in major Chinese cities.
Banks & Banking Hours The Bank of China has the most extensive network in the country. Several other major banks operate nationwide, including the Industrial and Commercial Bank of China (ICBC), the China Construction Bank, and China Merchants Bank. Banks are normally open 9am–4:30pm or 5pm Monday to Friday, but there are variations between places, and some banks are open on Saturdays. All banks remain closed for the first three days of the Chinese New Year, with reduced hours during other Chinese holidays.
international cards; visit your card issuer’s website for locations. In cities, ATMs are located in banks, shopping malls, five-star hotels and airports. Some ATMs also dispense cash against credit cards. Cash withdrawn from ATMs is subject to the same exchange rate as credit cards, and there may be a limit to how much you can withdraw per day.
Changing Money Chinese currency is not widely available internationally, though, increasingly, it can be exchanged in Asian airports and banks in major Asian cities, as well as Hong Kong and Macau. Within China, you can exchange currency at banks and international airports and most decent hotels will change money for guests. Most major currencies are accepted. All exchange operations are linked to the Bank of China, so rates do not vary between them. Keep exchange receipts so that you can re-convert any surplus renminbi before leaving China. The Chinese “black market” for exchanging foreign currency offers only marginally better rates than banks. Dealing with the shady characters involved is not worth the hassle or risk, and you may end up with counterfeit renminbi. Hong Kong dollars are convertible and available outside the country. They are accepted in Macau and most southern Special Economic Zones.
Credit Cards Automated Tellers Automated Teller Machines (ATMs) that accept foreign cards are common in all major cities of mainland China, plus Hong Kong and Macau, so can be relied upon for easy access to cash. In more remote areas of China, ATMs may not all accept
Hong Kong & Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC) ATMs
Credit cards are widely accepted in upmarket restaurants, hotels, and high-street stores, but always check before attempting to make a purchase that your foreign card is accepted. The accepted cards are MasterCard, Visa, Japan Credit Bureau (JCB), Diners Club, and American
DIRECTORY Bank of China Beijing Asia Pacific Building, 8 Yabao Lu, Chaoyang District, 100020. 1 Fuxing Men Nei Dajie, 100818.
24-hr ATMs Arrivals Hall, Capital Airport. Corner of Sundongan Plaza, Wangfujing Dajie. Corner of Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an Jie.
Shanghai 39/F, Bank of China Tower, 200 Yincheng Rd, Central, Pudong, 200120.
Hong Kong 2A Des Voeux Road, Central. 24–28 Carnarvon Road, Tsim Sha Tsui.
HSBC
Dajie, Dong Cheng District, 100005.
Shanghai HSBC Tower, 8 Century Avenue, Pudong, 200120.
Block A, Beijing COFCO Plaza 8, Jianguo Men Nei
Citibank Tower, 33 Huayuanshiqiao Road, Pudong, 200120.
American Express
24-hr ATMs Shanghai Center, 1376 Nanjing Xi Lu.
Citibank Beijing
Beijing
Shanghai
1/F Tower 1, Bright Chang An Building, 7 Jianguomennei Dajie.
Beijing Room 2101, China World Tower One, China World Trade Center, 1 Jianguo Men Wai Dajie, 100004.
Shanghai Room 206, Retail Plaza, Shanghai Center, 200040.
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Express. Air tickets can be bought by credit card from the Civil Aviation Administration of China (CAAC) offices, but train tickets have to be paid for in cash. Cash advances can be made on credit cards at the Bank of China.
Traveler’s Checks Traveler’s checks are safer to carry than cash and offer a better exchange rate, but you will have to pay a commission. In addition, they are very hard to exchange; indeed, only the Bank of China will change them,
and even then, they will do so reluctantly, as the process is complicated. Avoid bringing traveler’s checks if at all possible. Keep the proof of purchase slips and a record of the serial numbers in case of loss or theft. Hold on to encashment slips, so you can convert spare renminbi to another currency before leaving the country.
Currency China’s currency is called yuan renminbi, literally People’s Currency. One yuan divides into 10 jiao, which divides into
The more recently minted bills have Mao Zedong on one side and a well-known heritage sight on the other. The older bills depict the traditional dress of various ethnic minorities.
1-yuan note
5-yuan note
10-yuan note
20-yuan note
50-yuan note
100-yuan note
Coins
5 jiao
1 jiao
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10 almost worthless fen. In colloquial Chinese, jiao is called mao, and yuan is kuai. The most common coins include 1 yuan, 5 jiao, and 1 jiao, while the bills in circulation are 1, 2, and 5 jiao, and 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 yuan. There are also some fen coins and notes, but this tiny denomination is rarely accepted. Try not to acquire too many damaged notes, as they may be difficult to get rid of. Counterfeiting is widespread, and shopkeepers regularly scrutinize large denominations. Hong Kong dollars divide into 100 cents, and Macanese patacas into 100 avos.
Bank Notes
Chinese coins are not widely circulated. There is a 1 yuan coin, some jiao denominations, as well as tiny and lightweight fen.
1 yuan
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Communications and Media China has an efficient postal network with a variety of services, including registered post and express mail. Telecommunication systems are reasonably advanced and international telephone calls can be made from all but the cheapest hotels. The Internet is hugely popular, and cafés and bars with Wi-Fi access are widespread. The government, however, polices the net, and websites that it considers controversial may be blocked. Foreign newspapers and magazines are sold in five-star hotel bookstores, and in some supermarkets and bookshops.
also be purchased for modest prices (all have English menus) and there is a thriving secondhand market. Most international mobile networks have “roaming” partnerships with Chinese phone companies, but it is a good idea to check the call rates before you travel.
Internet
Wheelchair-accessible phone booth, Beijing
International & Local Telephone Calls Public telephones do exist in China but are rarely used in the cities – China has the largest number of mobile phone users in the world. If you do use a public telephone, card phones that accept a wide variety of phonecards are available in large cities, and are the cheapest way of making calls. IC (Integrated Circuit) cards come in denominations of ¥20, ¥50, and ¥100. They are largely used for domestic calls. They can also be used for international calls, though the rates are not very good. IP (Internet Phone) cards come in denominations of ¥100 and offer the cheapest rates for international calls. If you buy a local SIM card you can hook your GSM cellphone up to the Chinese system in minutes (North Americans need unlocked tri- or quad-band phones). Top-up cards are available on almost every street corner. Phones can
Personal computer ownership is widespread in China, and Internet cafés (wangba) have almost become a thing of the past. China has rapidly become a very wired nation; most urbanites carry a smartphone and laptop or iPad. Many smart, modern cafés, coffee shops, and bars offer free Wi-Fi and are frequented by China’s laptop and smartphone fraternity. Similarly, free broadband access for those with their own computers is commonplace in most hotels of a reasonable standard, as well as in the majority of youth hostels. Overseas websites and
blogs are carefully monitored in China and often blocked. Websites can only be accessed if the virtual private network is paid for.
Postal Services The postal service in China is, for the most part, reliable, and the domestic service is reasonably fast. It takes less than a day for mail to reach local destinations, two or more days to inland destinations, while the international postal service takes up to 10 days to send airmail and postcards overseas. Visitors can send mail by standard or registered post (guahaoxin), while EMS (Express Mail Service) is a reliable way to send packages and documents abroad and within the country. Main post offices are open seven days a week, from 8am to 8pm, while smaller ones usually close earlier or for lunch, and remain shut on the weekends. Large hotels usually have post desks. Take your mail to the post office, rather than dropping it in a mailbox. It will help postal staff sort your letter if you write the country’s name in Chinese characters. Aerograms and packaging materials for parcels are available at post offices. Reliable poste restante services are available all over China. You will need some form of identification – preferably your passport – to retrieve your mail. Envelopes should be addressed with the surname underlined
Internet cafés are quickly being replaced by Wi-Fi access in regular cafés
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DIRECTORY China Post Tel 11185. ∑ ems.com.cn
DHL Worldwide Express Tel 800 810 8000 (toll free nationwide). ∑ dhl.com
Federal Express
A choice of Chinese newspapers on display at a newsstand
and in capitals. Chinese addresses always start with the country, then the province, city, street, house number, and name of recipient. The postcode should be written at the end.
culture magazines, which offer the best news on local events. The Shanghai Daily also covers entertainment, dining options, and cultural events. A choice of Chinese newspapers on display at a newsstand.
Courier Services Television & Radio Courier services are widely available, The state-run television but less so in small network, Chinese Central towns and remote Television (CCTV), has areas. While it is two English-language preferable to send channels. CCTV9 is large, bulky items by tolerable despite its regular land, sea, or biased news and does air cargo, important have some interesting letters, documents, programs. Some and smaller parcels English programs are are best sent through also broadcast on Mail box, Beijing a courier agency. CCTV4. Cable and UPS, Federal Express, satellite television is available in most international chain hotels, DHL Worldwide Express, and you will find BBC News 24 and China Post are interor CNN everywhere. Chinese national courier agencies programs range from historical with a wide network.
Tel 800 988 1888 (toll free nationwide). ∑ fedex.com.
General Post Office 134 Changjiang Lu, Dalian. Near Bell Tower, Bei Dajie, Xi’an.
International Post Office Jianguo Men Bei Dajie, Beijing. Sichuan Bei Lu, Shanghai.
UPS Tel 800 820 8388 (toll free nationwide). ∑ ups.com
costume dramas and tepid soaps to domestic travel, wildlife programs, war films, and heavily biased news programs. There is also a wide Chineselanguage radio network, but only a few local Englishlanguage programs. You will need a shortwave radio to pick up the BBC World Service, Voice of America, and other international programs. The BBC has closed its Chinese language World Service broadcasts. English broadcasts are often subject to disruption.
Newspapers & Magazines
Useful Dialling Codes & Numbers
The China Daily is China’s official English language newspaper. Its reputation for being dry remains, but its scope and coverage has greatly improved. The state-run Shanghai Daily offers good coverage of events in the city. Most international newspapers and magazines can be found at tourist hotel bookstores and a small selection of supermarkets and bookstores. Titles available include the International Herald Tribune, the Financial Times, Time, Newsweek, and the Economist. In Beijing, Shanghai, Tianjin, Guangzhou, and other large cities, look out for expat entertainment and
• To call China from abroad, dial your international access code, China’s country code (86), the area code omitting the first 0, followed by the local number. • Neither Hong Kong nor Macau have area codes; they only have country codes – 852 and 853 respectively. • To make an inter-city call, dial the area code of that city and the local number. For Beijing, dial 010; Shanghai, 021; Guangzhou, 020; Chongqing, 023; Kunming 0871. • To make a local call, omit the area code.
• To make an international call from China, dial 00, the country code, the area code omitting any initial 0, and the local number. • Country codes: UK 44; France 33; USA & Canada 1; Australia 61; Ireland 353; New Zealand 64; South Africa 27; Japan 81. • Dial 115 for international directory assistance. • Dial 114 for local directory enquiries in Chinese; dial the area code followed by 114 for numbers in another town.
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TRAVEL INFORMATION Most visitors to China arrive by air, though overland routes exist with train links to neighboring Russia, Mongolia, Kazakhstan, and Vietnam, and a bus link to Pakistan. It is also possible to arrive by sea; there are regular ferries from Japan and South Korea. Traveling within the country – even to remote areas – is possible by air, train, road, and, on a few routes, by boat. China has a huge, rapidly expanding rail network, although tickets –
Arriving by Air All major international airlines fly to China. Air China, the country’s main international carrier, has quite basic service and facilities, but has a nearspotless safety record and its flights, to most of the world’s major airports, are competitively priced. North American and European carriers such as United Airlines, British Airways, Virgin, Lufthansa, KLM, and Air France, have regular flights to some, or all, of China’s three main – and most sophisticated – airports at Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Beijing. Flights to the other parts of the Far East, Australia, and New Zealand are offered by Singapore Airlines, Japan Airlines, All Nippon Airways, Korean Air, Qantas, Cathay Pacific, Air New Zealand, and others. Both Virgin and British Airways fly direct to Shanghai. Cheap flights to
especially for sleeping berths – can be rare during the holiday periods. The intercity high-speed rail network is extensive, and often a good substitute for flying. Bus travel is improving, with buses covering the entire country, including a number of “luxury” buses that offer reasonable comfort. Renting a car is not advised; foreigners are restricted from driving in many areas and the condition of many roads is very poor.
China are also available via Air China, China Eastern, Aeroflot (via Moscow), Malaysia Airlines (via Kuala Lumpur), and Air Asia, Jetstar, and Tiger Airways (from Southeast Asia).
International Flights & Airports China’s four main international airports are at Hong Kong, Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou. The Chinese government is investing a considerable amount of money to provide its international airports with state-of-the-art features. Beijing Capital Airport has three impressive terminals – terminal three was designed by architect Norman Foster and opened in time for the 2008 Olympics. In 1999, Pudong Airport was built in Shanghai, making it the first city in China to have two international airports. Macau, too, has
an international airport on Taipa Island, although most visitors arrive via boat from Hong Kong. Other international airports offering flights to overseas destinations include Changchun (Nagoya, Seoul, and Tokyo), Changsha (Seoul), Chengdu (Amsterdam, Bangkok, Kathmandu, Singapore, and Tokyo), Chongqing (Nagoya, Seoul, and Singapore), Dalian (Hiroshima, Munich, Sendai, Seoul, and Tokyo), Guangzhou (Kuala Lumpur, Los Angeles, Sydney, Singapore, Paris, and other destinations), Guilin (Seoul and Bangkok), Haikou (Bangkok, Osaka, and Seoul), Hangzhou (Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Seoul, Tokyo, and Amsterdam), Harbin (Seoul, Khabarovsk, and Vladivostok), Kunming (Bangkok), Lhasa (Kathmandu), Nanjing (Bangkok, Seoul, Singapore, and Frankfurt), Qingdao (Osaka, Seoul, and Tokyo), Shenyang (Osaka and Seoul), Shenzhen (Bangkok, Manila, and Tokyo), Tianjin (Nagoya and Seoul), Xi’an (Nagoya, Pusan, Seoul, and Tokyo), Xiamen (Manila, Singapore, Osaka, and Tokyo), Ürümqi (Almaty, Bishkek, Islamabad, Moscow, and Novosibirsk), and Wuhan (Seoul).
Air Fares
State-of-the-art terminal at Beijing Airport
Air fares vary according to the airline and the season. The peak season for international flights to China is between June and September, when prices are highest. Reasonably priced tickets are also hard to find during the holidays: Chinese New Year and the first week of October. While
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flying via another country is cheaper than flying direct, traveling by a Chinese airline such as Air China or China Eastern will be cheaper than international airlines. Plenty of discount tickets are available for long-term travel, which are valid for 12 months with multiple stopovers and open dates. The best deals can usually be found online (try www.ctrip.com and www.elong. com). Numerous travel agencies across the world have websites, making it easy to compare prices. Tickets can be booked through ticket offices, travel agents, and hotels, but travel agents – especially those away from hotels and areas used by expats – tend to offer the best prices.
Getting from the Airport Airports are linked to the city by express train or by bus routes which make several stops in town. Avoid the overpriced taxi touts who try and force their services on foreign visitors. Instead, head for the taxi rank where trips into town are charged by the meter. Four- and five-star hotels usually run shuttle buses to their hotels and the Civil Aviation Administration of China (CAAC) runs buses to their office in town.
Check-in
DIRECTORY Airline Offices Air China Tel 4008 100 999, toll free nationwide. ∑ airchina.com.cn
Air France Tel 4008 808 808. ∑ airfrance.com.cn
All Nippon Airways Tel 4008 828 888. ∑ ana.co.jp
British Airways Tel 400 881 0207. ∑ britishairways.com
Cathay Pacific
The check-in time for international flights is officially two hours before departure. Most passengers are allowed On Arrival 40 pounds (20 kg) of baggage, while firstOn the airplane, visitors class passengers may are given a customs be allowed 66 arrival form pounds (30 kg). to complete, One additional item combining Logo of China’s national of hand luggage immigration, airline, Air China weighing up to customs, and health 11 pounds (5 kg) is also usually information, which has to permitted. Baggage allowance be submitted along with depends on the destination, their passport at the airport and travelers to North America immigration counter (between are generally allowed more the plane and the arrivals hall). luggage. If you are carrying International airports throughout China offer a limited heavy luggage, check with your airline to make sure that your range of facilities, but you will find foreign exchange counters, luggage is within the weight limit, as excess baggage ATMs, public telephones, leftcharges can be very high. luggage services, restaurants (though rather overpriced), very limited shops, and toilets. Departure Airport tourist information centers in China are of varying Departure tax is included in degrees of usefulness, and are the price of an airplane ticket often manned by staff who and a fee is no longer payable speak poor English. at airports.
Tel 400 888 6628. ∑ cathaypacific.com
Delta Tel 400 120 1364. ∑ delta.com
KLM Tel 4008 808 222, Beijing & Shanghai. ∑ klm.com
Lufthansa Tel 4008 868 868. ∑ lufthansa.com
Qantas Tel 800 819 0089. ∑ qantas.com.au
United Airlines Tel 400 883 4288. ∑ united.com
Virgin Atlantic Tel (021) 5353 4600, Shanghai. ∑ virgin-atlantic.com
§ Information
Distance to City Center
(010) 96158
16 miles (25 km) northeast
40 mins (taxi)
Hongqiao Airport (Shanghai)
(021) 5114 6655
12 miles (19 km) west
30 mins (taxi)
Pudong Airport (Shanghai)
(021) 6834 5328
28 miles (45 km) east
45 mins (taxi)
Hong Kong International Airport
(0852) 2181 8888
20 miles (32 km) west
25 mins (train)
Macau International Airport
(0853) 2886 1111
3 miles (5 km) northwest
15 mins (taxi)
Airport Beijing Capital Airport
613
Average Journey Time
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Domestic Air Travel The arrival of cheap, high-speed train travel in China has led Chinese airlines to step up the competition in terms of both the cost and comfort of their services, especially on the popular Shanghai–Beijing route. The extensive domestic flight network involves numerous regional airlines flying to over 150 airports. The main cities of Beijing, Nanjing, Chengdu, Tianjin, Chongqing, Hong Kong, Shanghai, Dalian, Guangzhou, and Xi’an are particularly well connected to airports throughout the country. Domestic air tickets are straightforward to buy, so wait until you arrive in the country and then shop around for discounts. Flight cancellations and delays due to bad weather are common, especially in winter and on less traveled routes in the more remote provinces, so remember to reconfirm your ticket and the time of your flight.
Domestic Airlines
baggage is 1 percent of the full fare per 2.2 pounds (1 kg).
Domestic Airports Air travel is becoming much more convenient in China, with new airports being built and old ones renovated and expanded. It has been made a national priority to upgrade all city airports, and state-of-theart facilities are now available at Beijing Capital Airport, Shanghai’s Pudong International Airport and Hongqiao Airport, Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport, and the Hong Kong International Airport at Chek Lap Kok. These modern airports easily compare with the best in the world. Airports in some major tourist cities, such as Xi’an, Hangzhou, Tianjin, Kunming, Chengdu and Nanjing also offer up-to-date facilities. Many new airports are being built in cities across China, including a second one in Beijing (in Daxing district, in Hebei province). A few private airlines operate from Hong Kong and Macau, as well as from the mainland, including the low-cost carrier Spring Airlines and the Hainan Island-based Hainan Airlines, but most other airlines are administered by the CAAC.
in the past, but service has improved greatly. A few private airlines operate Air China’s international flying from Hong Kong and Macau, safety record is good, and now but most other airlines in China almost all domestic airlines are administered by the Civil have fleets of new aircraft, Aviation Administration which means of China (CAAC). safety records There are currently have improved about ten domestic further. Older carriers operating aircraft are somein China. (The Logo of Hainan Airlines times used in initials in parenChina’s peripheral theses are the regions. Before you choose to airline code or flight-number book with a particular airline, prefix.) Some of the domestic airlines, such as China Southern you may wish to ask what kind of plane you will be boarding. (CZ), and China Eastern (MU), The baggage allowance is also fly international routes. You 44 pounds (20 kg) for economy can buy domestic flights from these airlines overseas, but rates class and 66 pounds (30 kg) Getting to & from for first and business class. are far better when booked in the Airport You are also allowed up to 11 China. Other domestic airlines pounds (5 kg) of hand luggage, include Sichuan Airlines (3U), The distance from airports to although airlines almost never Shenzhen Airlines (4G), Hainan city centers varies considerably weigh it. The charge for excess Airlines (HU), and in China, so factor this into your Xiamen Airlines (MF). The CAAC is driving service improvement throughout the industry, especially on board, and changes are noticeable from even just a few years ago. Unfortunately, frequent delays and cancellations still occur. Announcements are both in Chinese and English if there are foreign nationals on board. In-flight service can be brusque, and foreign visitors have felt neglected Flight attendants aboard Sichuan Airlines en route to Chengdu
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journey time. Also, always allow domestic flights is usually ¥50, and is paid at the time time for unforeseen delays en of purchasing the ticket. route. In many large cities and towns, you can reach the airport or travel from the Tickets, Reservations airport into town on a CAAC & Cancellations bus, which departs from and arrives at the CAAC office in Each domestic airline has town. In larger cities, such as a booking office in most cities, Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong as well as a reservation counter Kong, dedicated bus at each airport. and train services Tickets can be run from town to booked through the airport. Hong ticket offices, travel Kong, Shanghai and agents, online via Beijing airports all www.ctrip.com, have express train www.elong.com, links to the city. and www. Shanghai’s travelzen.com, Hongqiao or the travel and Pudong desks of some Airports are of the better connected to hotels – you the city’s metro should not be system (line 2). charged a For faster travel booking fee. Road signs to the airport, Hong Kong to and from Travel agents downtown, the high-speed tend to offer the best discounts. Maglev train connects with Credit cards are accepted by Longyang Road metro station many travel agents and CAAC (also line 2), near the Pudong offices. Visitors are required to commercial/residential centre. show their passports when Taxis wait for passengers purchasing tickets. There is outside the arrivals hall. Make generally no shortage of tickets sure you head for the taxi rank unless you are flying between and avoid the numerous touts Hong Kong and a mainland who will try to direct you destination, except in the run towards their own car. Insist up to and during the Chinese on the driver using the meter. New Year, and the week-long Drivers rarely speak English so holiday periods after October 1, have your destination written when it is advisable to book in Chinese characters or keep well ahead. the phone number of your A combined international accommodation on hand and domestic timetable is so the driver can call for published by CAAC in both directions. If you have English and Chinese. These booked accommodation, publications can be bought at check whether your hotel most airline offices and CAAC offers transport to and from outlets. Individual airlines also the airport. print their own timetables, available at booking offices throughout the country. Flight Check-in schedules are revised in April and October each year. For most domestic flights, Ticket prices are calculated the check-in time is at according to a one-way fare, least an hour and a half and a return-ticket is simply before departure, although double the single fare. very few passengers arrive Discounts on official fares that early. Make sure all your are the norm, so it is best to bags are tagged, and do not check with travel agents for pack sharp objects, such as good deals. You are likely to scissors, tweezers, nail files, or get a better deal on a flight if knitting needles, in your hand you buy your ticket from an luggage. The airport tax for
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agent in the city you are departing from. Business class tickets cost 25 percent more than economy, while first class tickets cost 60 percent more. Children over the age of 12 are charged adult fares, while there are special discounted fares for younger children and infants. If you wish to return or change your air ticket, you can get a refund as long as you cancel at least 24 hours before departure, and return your ticket to the same agent who sold it to you. Even if you miss your flight, you are entitled to a refund of 50 percent of the full fare. You may be asked to buy travel insurance from your ticketing agent. However, it is generally not worthwhile, as the claim amount is very low.
DIRECTORY Caac Offices ∑ caac.gov.cn
Beijing Tel (010) 8778 6114.
Shanghai Tel (021) 6835 7207.
China Eastern Airlines ∑ ce-air.com
Tel (010) 95530 (nationwide hotline).
China Southern Airlines ∑ csair.com
Tel (010) 95539 (nationwide hotline).
Dragonair ∑ dragonair.com
Hong Kong Tel (0852) 3193 3888.
Shanghai Tel 400 888 6628 (nationwide in mainland China).
Hainan Airlines Tel 0898 950712. ∑ global.hnair.com
Sichuan Airlines Tel 4008 300 999. ∑ scal.com.cn
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Traveling by Train China is a vast country and, for many travelers, train journeys are an excellent way to see the countryside and get to know the people. Trains are punctual, fast, and relatively safe, and are a reliable transport option. Since 2009, China has been rolling out an extensive network of high-speed “bullet” trains running on key intercity routes. Journey times are much shorter, but ticket prices are higher. Trains are usually crowded so it is advisable to either buy your ticket well in advance, or ask your hotel or travel agent to arrange your bookings.
The Railway Network Since the cost of air travel is beyond the reach of many Chinese, traveling by train is the preferred alternative, especially over long distances. China has an efficient and extensive rail network that covers every province including Hainan Island, connected to the mainland by a special train ferry, and mountainous Tibet, connected to Qinghai by a new railway line. Hong Kong is also connected to mainland China by rail. Depending on which type of ticket you purchase, Chinese trains can be quite comfortable, and there are fast services running between most large towns and cities.
Trains & Timetables Although trains in China are commendably punctual, trying to decipher a Chinese timetable is an impossible task, unless you can read Chinese. Timetables are published in April and October each year, and are available at railway station ticket offices. A good online timetable can be found at www. travelchinaguide.com. Stations can be frustrating places, and
Grand Soviet-style Taiyuan train station
Platform food stall, Yinchuan train station
visitors will need patience to deal with them. Trying to locate English-speaking staff on platforms is difficult, even in large cities such as Beijing and Shanghai. Telephoning stations with enquiries is pointless unless you speak Chinese. Each train is identified by a train number, written on the outside of each carriage, that indicates its route and destination. As a rule, incoming and outgoing trains running between two destinations are numbered sequentially. For example, train K79 travels from Shanghai to Kunming, while train K80 runs from Kunming to Shanghai.
Trains are of five types: those with numbers prefixed by the letter “T” or “K” are express (te kuai) or fast (kuai) trains, and those whose numbers have no prefix are ordinary (pu kuai) trains, with frequent stops. “G” indicates direct high-speed trains, while “D” is used for high-speed trains with stops. Express trains have carriages of all classes, and are the most modern and comfortable, with few stops and superior services. All long-distance trains are equipped with sleepers. There is no smoking permitted within compartments, except in hard-seat carriages, although most trains allow passengers to smoke in the corridors. Most trains have dining cars, and staff will continuously push trolleys through the carriages selling noodles, snacks, mineral water, coffee, and newspapers. The noise level in carriages is often very high, as music and announcements are regularly broadcast over the speakers. China’s modern fleet of trains are much cleaner than the old ones and have air conditioning. The older trains can be very dingy indeed; prepare yourself for sordid and filthy bathrooms.
Classes Whereas high-speed trains have only two classes (economy and first), regular Chinese trains have four. The most luxurious class is Soft Sleeper (ruan wo), with four comfortable berths per compartment. Offering more privacy, security, and cleanliness than less-expensive classes, soft sleeper tickets are very
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Modern glass and steel train station, Changzhou
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days before departure. On short routes, you may be able to secure a ticket just before departure, but it is safest to buy ahead. Tickets on longer routes sell out, especially those for hard sleepers. Train fares are calculated according to the class and the distance traveled. All tickets are one-way, so you will need to buy another ticket for the return journey, although return tickets are gradually being introduced for the high-speed intercity routes. Joining the crowds at station ticket counters can be very trying, so unless the station has a separate ticket office for foreign visitors, which is the case at Beijing train station, consider asking your hotel, tourist office, or travel agent to buy tickets for you. Black-market operators buy tickets in bulk, and then re-sell them at a markup outside railway stations. If you’re buying tickets on the black-market, check the dates of travel, destination, and class printed on the ticket carefully. Before boarding the train, visitors wait in a hall before filing past ticket-checkers to the platform. Retain your ticket as inspectors will ask to see it again, just before you reach your destination. Note that getting hold of tickets during the Chinese New Year (Spring Festival), and the May and October holiday periods can be very difficult, and it is inadvisable to travel during these times.
pricey, and are not much quite unpleasant. Carriages cheaper than air tickets on are usually crowded and dirty, certain routes. the speakers blare endlessly, For long journeys lasting lights remain on at night, and over six hours, Hard Sleeper compartments are filled with smoke. It is possible to upgrade (ying wo) is the best way to (bu piao) once aboard the travel. Consequently, these train, if there are seats available tickets are the hardest to proin the class of your choice. cure, and you’d be lucky to get Note that hard-seat tickets one on short notice. Hard bought on the same day sleeper can be an economical choice when traveling between are usually unreserved. Available only on certain cities overnight, as it saves the routes, Soft Seat (ruan zuo) cost of a night in a hotel. Carriages consist of doorless carriages are much more compartments, comfortable each with six and spacious bunks. Tickets than hard are of three seat, and seat types – upper two people Booking office sign, Zhenjiang train station, berth (shang side-by-side pu), middle berth in numbered (zhong pu), and lower berth (xia seats. Tickets cost about as pu), with a small price difference much as hard sleeper. between each. The lowest berth is the most expensive, while the Train Tickets, Fares top one is the cheapest. The & Reservations best berth, however, is the middle one. The upper bunk has When buying tickets, it is little head-room and is closest essential to plan in advance. to the speakers. During the day, On most routes, it is vital to buy the lower bunk acts as seating tickets at least two or three days and fills with fellow passengers. before you travel, although Pillows, sheets, and blankets are tickets are available about five provided by the railways, as are two thermos flasks of boiling water, which you can replenish yourself from the massive boiler at the end of each carriage. Once aboard the train, the inspector will exchange your ticket for a metal token, and return the ticket at the end of the journey. The cheapest class is Hard Seat (ying zuo), which seats three people side-by-side on lightly cushioned seats. Although fine for short journeys, spending more than 4 hours in a hard- seat carriage can be A uniformed guard minding a double-decker train, Dalian
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Traveling by Bus & Ferry
common, slowing the journey considerably. Drivers can be China’s extensive network of road transport connects most cities, reckless and bus crashes are as well as distant, rural areas. Bus travel is essential for reaching distressingly frequent. The noise level can be deafening, with places that are not served by train. Tickets are both easier to music blaring and the driver procure and are cheaper than train tickets, and there is a wider leaning on the horn, so take choice of departure times, stops, and itineraries. The absence of earplugs. Most buses are a national operator, however, means that numerous competing choked with cigarette smoke. Ordinary buses (putong businesses exist, coupled with minimal regulation. Furthermore, che) are the cheapest and driving is often rash, vehicles are poorly maintained, and road have basic wooden, or lightly conditions can be bad, especially in the more remote areas. padded, seats. These buses A small network of passenger ferries serves ports along stop often, so progress can China’s coastline and some of the inland waterways. be slow. They provide little space for baggage – there’s no room under the seats and the Long-distance Buses All cities and most large towns luggage racks are minuscule. have at least one long-distance Suitcases and backpacks are There are still many parts of bus station (changtu qiche zhan) usually stacked next to the China that are not accessible where state-run buses arrive driver, and you may be charged. by train, making it necessary to and depart. Private bus firms make the long haul by road. In Sleeper buses (wopu che) may have set up a few Fujian, where rail services exist, speed through the but are infuriatingly indirect, bus of their own bus night making stations in town; often, travel makes a lot of sense. In few stops, so reach Guizhou and Guangxi, the more one of these is located their destination in next to the train station. interesting areas inhabited by good time. They Other stations may be ethnic minorities are only usually have two tiers located on the edges accessible by bus and the of bunks, or seats that of town – the North tropical area of Xishuangbanna recline almost flat. The or East Bus Station in Yunnan is best explored by older models can be Bus stop, bus or taxi. You will also need to will usually serve quite dirty. Lower bunks Hong Kong take a bus (unless you are flying) destinations to the (xia pu) cost more than north or east. Determining to reach Lijiang in northern the upper bunks (shang pu), but which of these stations serves Yunnan and all of western are worth the extra cost as you the place you are trying to reach are less likely to be thrown from Sichuan. Getting around can be tricky, so you will need Tibet will require long bus your bed when the driver takes to ask around. Destinations are journeys, as will exploring the a corner at speed. displayed in Chinese characters northwestern frontier of China Shorter routes are served by on the front of buses. if you want to get beyond the rattling minibuses (xiao ba), Long-distance buses vary towns on the main train line. which depart only when every enormously in quality, age, Numerous sights throughout spare space has been filled by a and comfort. You may find that China are off rail lines. paying passenger. Crammed to Many smooth, wide highways several buses are running along the roof, minibus trips can be the same route, so make sure now link some of the major quite uncomfortable. you are sold a ticket for the cities, making some bus travel, Express buses (kuai che) are fastest, most comfortable bus, particularly on the east coast, the best way to travel. Some or the cheapest, if you prefer. In reasonably comfortable. In are luxury (hao hua), have air general, long-haul bus journeys some cases, the bus is now conditioning, and enforce a are taxing. Road conditions are a faster way to reach your no-smoking policy. Luggage often poor and road works are destination than the train. is stowed in a hold, which is fairly safe, given the few stops that are made en route. In certain parts of China – in Gansu and Sichuan, for instance – you may be required to purchase insurance from the People’s Insurance Company of China (PICC) before being allowed on a bus. Usually, however, it is included in the price of the ticket. This insurance waives any responsibility of the government bus company A basic long-distance bus (putong che) awaiting passengers, Qinghai
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A ferry on the Huangpu River, sailing through Shanghai
should you be injured in a bus crash; it does not cover you in the event of an accident.
and Hangzhou, and Wuxi and Hangzhou (see p223). There are no regular passenger ferry services up the Yangzi River available to foreign Bus Tickets & Fares visitors until Wuhan. Popular coastal ferry routes Traveling by road is generally include boats to Hainan Island much cheaper than traveling from ports in the province by train. Tickets are sold at of Guangdong (including long-distance bus stations and, unless you are hoping for a seat Guangzhou) and Beihai in Guangxi. A at the front of a large number luxury bus, do of vessels ply not need to between Hong be bought in Promotional river cruise sign Kong and advance. Tickets outside tourist office Macau, many for private buses of which are high-speed and and minibuses are either operate round the clock. Macau purchased on board the bus is also connected to ports in or from touts nearby. Main Guangdong, while Hong Kong bus stations invariably have computerized ticket offices, and is linked to Zhuhai and several ports on the Pearl River delta. the queues are much shorter Within Hong Kong, a medley of than those experienced at craft run to the outlying islands. train stations. There are quite a few vessels connecting Hong Kong with the
Ferries, Boats & Cruise Ships
A small network of coastal routes survives in China, and vessels still ply the Yangzi River, but the increased convenience of traveling by air, road, and rail has reduced the variety and frequency of sea- and river-ferry sailings in China. The most popular river route is the trip along the Yangzi between Chongqing and Yichang, through the Three Gorges (see pp358–60). An overnight ferry service for tourists runs along the Grand Canal between Suzhou
Tourist boats docked on the vast Qinghai Lake
619
rest of China, but services are becoming less frequent. Because of the prohibitively long overland routes, ferries link the booming northeastern city of Dalian with Yantai and Tianjin. Yantai and Weihai on the eastern tip of Shandong peninsula are accessible from Shanghai, Dalian, and Tianjin. Note that ferry timetables may change frequently and services may have been added or terminated. Several international sea routes link China to other countries. From Japan, Kobe is connected to both Tianjin and Shanghai on the east coast, while ferries also link Osaka with Shanghai. From South Korea, the port of Inchon is connected to the Chinese ports of Dalian, Weihai, Qingdao, Shanghai, and Tianjin. Shanghai’s expanding international ferry terminal welcomes increasing numbers of cruise ships, with the fastdeveloping cruise industry forming a key part of the city’s plan to become an international shipping center. By 2016, Shanghai expects to welcome 500 cruise ships annually, bringing 1.2 million visitors to the city. Costa and Royal Caribbean already use the city as an Asian base port, and several other Asia-Pacific cruise routes – including to Russia, Taiwan, and Southeast Asia – are expected to open in the next few years. Cruise passengers arriving in Shanghai should now be able to shop in duty-free stores at the port.
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Local Transport in Cities Transport options vary greatly between cities in China. Many of the largest metropolises have complex networks with subway systems, which, in many cases, are in the process of being extensively expanded. In Beijing and Shanghai, the subway (ditie) is the best way to get around, while in Hong Kong, the transport system is well-integrated, and subways, trains, and buses are all convenient options. In most cities, buses are slow and usually packed, but are very cheap. Taxis (chuzu qiche) are a necessity for most travelers, and, despite the language barrier and misunderstandings with drivers, are the most convenient way to get around. Bicycles once ruled the roads of China’s cities and although not as popular today, they are still one of the best ways to explore.
Beijing’s Subway
range between ¥3 and ¥6, depending on the number The subway system in Beijing underwent major development of stops traveled. Check the map to determine your fare in preparation for the 2008 Olympic Games. The system has and then buy a ticket from the booth or machine. You can also been expanded and includes buy ¥50 pre-paid tickets. Put an express rail line which your ticket into the slot goes direct to Beijing at the barrier and the Capital Airport. gates will open. The subway is a swift Retrieve your ticket on way to get around this the other side of the spread-out city. The gate and hold on to it – system is easy to use, you will need it at the although walks destination exit. between lines The much-touted at interchange stations Maglev (magnetic can be long. All levitation) runs journeys cost ¥2. Buy between Pudong your paper ticket at the Sign for Beijing Airport and ticket booth near the subway the eastern end of entrance. Tickets are Line 2 and reaches speeds of undated and you should show 270 miles per hour (430 km/h). your ticket to the attendants at Check the times of departure. the entrance to the platform. The current ticketing system is based on the distance traveled. Hong Kong’s MTR & KCR Line 13 now has automated ticket gates, as will any other Integrated and efficient, lines that open up in the future. Hong Kong has the best public transportation system in the country. The city is easy to get Shanghai’s Subway around using all of its forms of The rapidly expanding Shanghai transport – MTR (subway and overground trains), buses, trams, subway system is clean and and ferries – and most signage efficient, with the first line built is in English. You can buy single in 1995. The 12 lines currently tickets for your journeys, but in operation are expected to each type of transit requires a increase to a total of 22 by separate ticket. Alternatively, 2020. Lines 1 and 2 are most you can buy an Octopus card, useful to the tourist, with line an electronic card that allows 2 connecting the city’s two airports, Pudong and Honqqiao; you to hop on and off most of the system. You can buy these the raised Line 3, or Pearl Line, for a minimum of HK$150 travels the western outskirts of including a HK$50 deposit, the city. Fares for Lines 1 and 2
which is refunded when you return the card. You can easily add credit at MTR stations, ferry piers, and convenience stores. The Mass Transit Railway (MTR) currently has 11 lines, with three more under construction. The fare increases with the distance traveled, except on the Airport Express Line where a higher fee is charged. If you buy a single ticket, insert it into the turnstile and retrieve it on the other side. Hold on to your ticket as you will need it to exit the system. If you have an Octopus card, simply touch the card to the yellow reader on the turnstile. There are three overground MTR lines that cover destinations in the New Territories. East Rail was the original Kowloon–Canton railway and heads north into mainland China. Do not go past Sheung Shui (the second last stop), if you do not have the correct documentation to enter the mainland.
Buses & Trams City bus networks are extensive and cheap. The buses (gonggong qiche), however, are almost always overcrowded – so much so that you are unlikely to be able to see out of the windows. These conditions are perfect for thieves, so stay wellaware of your belongings. Consider using buses only for short straight-forward journeys. Avoid them if you are trying to get from one end of town to the other – you are likely to get stuck in traffic. Bus routes can be tricky to navigate, particularly as most
Motor-rickshaw for hire, Harbin
T R AV E L I N F O R M AT I O N
621
Fares vary slightly from city good way to traverse the city, to city, the most expensive but you may find the traffic being Beijing and Shanghai, intimidating. Hangzhou has but taxis generally offer both the best bike hire system, with good value and convenience. dozens of kiosks to hire official In many cities, different public bicycles from. Make sure models of cars will have that any bike you rent has a different rates. Tipping the lock. Handy bike stands are driver is not necessary. found in big cities and have an Taxis can also be hired for attendant to watch the bikes the day – a convenient way for a nominal fee. to see sights just out of town. Agree on a price beforehand, Road Names and make sure your driver is clear on the extent of your Main streets, avenues, and itinerary. In Tibet, you may find thoroughfares are often divided Bicycles in Beijing – the traditional way to that hiring a jeep and driver is into different sections based get around the city the only way to get to some on the four cardinal points. sights. It is customary to pay For example, Zhongshan Lu routes and destinations are for the driver’s lunch. (Zhongshan Road) may be listed in Chinese only. Hong divided into Zhongshan Xi Lu Kong has the most comfortable In smaller towns, motorcycle rickshaws (sanlun motuoche) (West Road) and Zhongshan and easy to use bus system, and bicycle rickshaws (sanlun Dong Lu (East Road). Similarly, although traffic can be as bad che) are a convenient and you may also see Zhongshan here as anywhere else. Hong entertaining way to get Bei Lu (North Road) and Kong also has an old tram line around town. Do not take Zhongshan Nan Lu (South that runs from Sheung Wan to these in major cities – they Road). Apart from lu (road), Causeway Bay on Hong Kong cost about the same as a taxi other key words are jie (street), Island. Dalian has a few trams and frequently target hutong and xiang (lane or as well. Maps of bus and tourists for historic alleyway). Road names tram routes are widely substantial in large cities such as Beijing available, rip-offs. may also display the pinyin especially In some translation, but in smaller towns in and A city taxi in Beijing small towns, and remote destinations, only around they are the only Chinese is used. The use of train stations. form of transport. Agree on the pinyin is being phased out and fare before climbing aboard. in many large cities signage Taxis Motorcycle taxis are a very will be in Chinese script quick way to cover longer and English only. The best way to get about distances, although in cities that don’t have subway they are really only systems is by taxi (chuzu qiche). Taxis are found in large numbers practical if you are traveling alone with in all Chinese cities – often congregating near train stations little luggage. Insist – and can be hailed easily in the on the driver providing you street. Guests staying at hotels with a helmet. can also ask the reception desk to summon a taxi. When arriving at airports, avoid the Cycling touts who immediately surround you, and head instead Hiring a bicycle is to the taxi rank outside where one of the best ways you are less likely to be overto explore towns and charged. Also, make sure the their environs. Bike driver uses the meter (biao) or lanes are common negotiate a flat rate in advance. (although not always Taxis rarely have rear seat belts respected by drivers) (anquan dai), so sit in front if and roadside repair you are traveling alone. Few stalls are everywhere. taxi drivers speak English, In Beijing, the bicycle so it is advisable to have your is a major mode of destination written down in transport. With its Chinese, which the staff at your spread-out sights hotel will gladly do for you. and flat terrain it is a Taxis and buses on a busy street in the center of Macau
622
GENERAL INDEX
General Index Page numbers in bold type refer to main entries. 5-Level Double Ship Lock (Three Gorges Dam) 275 18 September Museum (Shenyang) 444 24 Bends (Tiger Leaping Gorge) 400 108 Dagobas (Ningxia) 481 10,000 Buddhas Monastery (Hong Kong) 326
A Aba Grasslands 349 Aba Khoja Mausoleum (Kashgar) 17, 516–17 Abahai 68, 438, 444 tomb of 445 Abdur Rahman 495 Abercrombie and Kent 593, 595 Aberdeen 328 Aberdeen, Earl of 328 Abu Waqas 305, 307 ACOR 557 Acrobats 119 Acupressure 38 Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) 607 Admission charges 600 Afghanistan 495 Agriculture desertification 469 inventions 42 rice 286–7 tea plantations 299 Aidi emperor (Tang dynasty) 58 Aidi emperor (Western Han dynasty) 58 AIDS 607 Aini people 388, 390, 391 Air China 613 Air France 613 Air pollution 24, 606 Air travel 612–15 advance booking 598 domestic airports 614 international airports 612, 613 Ake people 390–91 Alcohol 603 Alexander the Great 495 All Nippon Airways 613 Alligators 239 Altai 512 Altitude sickness 607 Altyn Mosque (Yarkand) 519 Alvares, Jorge 333 Aman Isa Khan, tomb of 519 Ambulances 605 Amdo 483 American Express 608 Amethyst 224 Amherst, Lord 69 Amoy see Xiamen
Amur river 478 An Lushan, General 63 An Lushan rebellion 63, 64 Ancient Observatory (Beijing) 100–101 Ancient Pottery Factory (Jingdezhen) 261 Andi emperor 58 Anhui province 183, 209 food and drink 187 hotels 560 Huizhou architecture 241 map 209 restaurants 577 Ani Tsankhung Nunnery (Lhasa) 533 Animals astrology 49 bites 607 see also Wildlife; Zoos Anjue Lamasery (Kangding) 377 Annoyances 603 Anping Lu (Shantou) 302 Anshun 406 batik 406 Antique Carpets (Beijing) 118, 119 Antiques shops 587 Beijing 118, 119 customs information 599 Hong Kong and Macau 336, 337 Shanghai 206, 207 Anyang 78, 147, 158 Aquariums Beijing Zoo 105 Sun Asia Ocean World (Dalian) 450–51 Archeology Peking Man site 117 Race for the Silk Road Oases 499 Architecture 40–41 Beijing’s courtyard houses 97 Dong architecture 427 earthen dwellings of Yongding 296 Huizhou architecture 241 pagodas 171 Army Day 52, 53 Arrow Tower (Jian Lou, Beijing) 90 Street-by-Street map 88 Arrow Towers (Forbidden City) 95 Arrow War (1856-58) 69 Art Museum (Guangzhou) 307 Arts and crafts bamboo 417 calligraphy 225 cave paintings of Dunhuang 500–501 jade 519 lacquerware 298 Miao people 412–13
Arts and crafts (cont.) modern arts 46–7 porcelain 260–61 Shanghai 206, 207 silk 214–15 traditional arts 44–5 What to Buy in China 589 Arts venues Beijing 119 Hong Kong 338, 339 Ashoka 176 Astana 509 Astrology 49 Astronomy, Ancient Observatory (Beijing) 100–101 Australian Embassy 605 Automated teller machines (ATMs) 586, 608 Autumn in China 52–3 Avian influenza 607 Ayurbarwada 58
B Ba culture 349 Chongqing 356 Sanxingdui Museum 366 tombs 358 Badaguan (Qingdao) 153 Badaling 12, 114 Baggage allowances 613 Bai Causeway (Hangzhou) 249 Bai Juyi 34, 249 Bai Long Dong (Wu Da Lian Chi) 460 Bai people 30, 349, 379 Dali 392 hanging coffins 360 Nanzhao Kingdom 394 Bai Ta (Anshun) 406 Bai Ta (Fuzhou) 298 Bai Ta (Hohhot) 475 Bailuzhou Park (Nanjing) 228 Baima Si (Luoyang) 158 Baima Ta (Dunhuang) 498 Baisha 14, 398 Baishui Tai 401 Baisikou Shuang Ta 480 Baisui Gong (Jiuhua Shan) 240 Baita Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou) 488 Baiyi Si (Lanzhou) 489 Baiyu Hill (Dalian) 451 Ballet 47 Bamboo 27, 417 Bangchuidao Scenic Area 450 Bank of China 608 Bank of China (Hong Kong) 316 Bank of China (Shanghai) 193 Bank notes 609 Banking 608–9 Banla Village 388 Banquets 568–9 Banruo Temple (Changchun) 452
GENERAL INDEX
Baoding Shan 363 carvings of Dazu 362–3 Baofeng Hu (Wulingyuan) 271 Baoguang Si 366 Baoguo Si (Emei Shan) 368 Baoguo Si (Ningbo) 252 Baopu Daoist Temple (Hangzhou) 246 Baoshu Ta (Hangzhou) 246 Baotou 476 “Barbarians” 78 Bargaining 586, 603 Barkhor (Lhasa) 534–5 The Barra (Macau) 13, 333 Bars 591 Beijing 119 Hong Kong 338, 339 Shanghai 207 Basketball 592, 595 Batik, Anshun 406 Bayi Park (Nanchang) 256 Bayi Square (Nanchang) 256 Bazaar (Turpan) 508 Bazi Qiao (Shaoxing) 252 Beaches 592–3 Beidaihe 134 Dalian 450 Deep Water and Repulse Bays 329 Gangzaihou Beach (Gulangyu Island) 293 Hainan Island 311 Qian Bu Sha (Putuo Shan) 255 Qingdao 153 Sai Kung Town and Peninsula Beaches (Hong Kong) 326–7 Stanley 329 Weihai 155 Yantai 154 Yin Tan (Silver Beach) 431 Beer Tsingtao 152 What to Drink in China 571 Begging 603 Bei river 460 Bei Shan 363 Bei Shan Si (Xining) 502 Beidaihe 134, 592 hotels 558 restaurants 573 Beigu Shan (Zhenjiang) 224 Beihai 431, 592 Beihai Park (Beijing) 96 Beijing 79, 85–125 air travel 613, 615 banks 608 city walls 90 climate 55 courtyard houses 97 embassies 605 entertainment 118–19 Forbidden City 12, 40, 92–5, 438–9
Beijing (cont.) hospitals 605 hotels 558 map 86–7 in Ming dynasty 67 Ming Tombs: Chang Ling 110–11 Olympic Games 592 Public Security Bureau (PSB) 599 restaurants 572–3 shopping 118–19 skiing 593 Street Finder 120–25 subway 620 Summer Palace 12, 106–8 Temple of Heaven 12, 102–3 Tian’an Men Square: Street-byStreet map 88–9 Two Days in Beijing 10, 12 Beijing Botanical Gardens 109 Beijing Capital Museum 101 Beijing Club (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Beijing Curio City 118, 119 Beijing Natural History Museum 101 Beijing and the North 75–177 food and drink 82–3 Great Wall of China 112–14 Hebei, Tianjin and Shanxi 127– 45 hotels 558–9 map 76–7 Portrait of Beijing and the North 78–9 restaurants 572–5 Shaanxi 167–77 Shandong and Henan 147–65 Beijing Opera 80–81, 119, 590 Beijing Planning Exhibition Hall 90–91 Beijing Silk Store 118, 119 Beijing Zoo 105 Beishan Park (Jilin) 453 Beisi Ta (Suzhou) 210 Beiyue Si (Yulong) 398 Bell Tower (Beijing) 98 Bell Tower (Nanjing) 232–3 Bell Tower (Pingyao) 145 Bell Tower (Wuwei) 494 Bell Tower (Xi’an) 169 Bendiwan 400 Bertolucci, Bernardo 437, 452 Bespoke Beijing 593 Bethune, Norman 136 Bezeklik Caves 499, 509 Bhrikuti, Princess 532, 536, 537 Bicycles 594, 621 Big Bamboo (Shanghai) 207 Big Buddha (Lantau Island) 13, 331
623
Big Dragon Pool Falls (Yandang Shan) 253 Bijia Shan 446 Bike China Adventures 594, 595 Bilian Feng (Yangshuo) 424 Billion (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Bing Di emperor 59 Bingling Si 464, 490 Bingyu Valley 443, 447 Binyang San Dong (Longmen Caves) 161 Bird flu 607 Birds Bird and Flower Market (Kunming) 380 Bird Market (Hong Kong) 323 Cao Hai 408 cormorant fishing 424 cranes 409 Edward Youde Aviary (Hong Kong) 339 Mai Po Marshes 327 Ocean Park (Hong Kong) 329 Qinghai Hu 503 specialist holidays 595 Yingxiong Shan (Gulangyu Island) 293 Zhalong Nature Reserve 458 see also Wildlife Birthday of Tin Hau (Hong Kong) 339 Bishan Si (Wutai Shan) 142 Bishu Shanzhuang (Chengde) 129 Bita Hai 401 Bixia Si (Tai Shan) 150 Biyun Temple (Beijing) 109 Black Dragon Pool (Lijiang) 386–7, 398 Black Dragon Pool (Lu Shan) 259 Black Tiger Spring (Jinan) 148 Bo Gu 263 Bo Hai (Bo Sea) 78 Bo Ya 273 Boats ferries 619 Grand Canal 223 Li river cruise 422–3 Yangzi cruise 358–60 Bodhidarma Baoguang Si 366 Forest of Stelae Museum (Xi’an) 168 Guangzhou 304, 305 Shaoguan 309 Shaolin Boxing 164, 165 Bon religion 524, 526 Bonbon (Shanghai) 207 Book shops, Beijing 118, 119 Borjijit, Empress 445 Boutiques 587 Bouyi people 405, 406
624
GENERAL INDEX
Boxer Rebellion (1900) 69, 439 Drum Tower (Beijing) 98 Empress Cixi and 107 Qian Men (Beijing) 90 South Cathedral (Beijing) 91 Southeast Corner Watchtower (Beijing) 101 Summer Palace (Beijing) 106 Boxing Cat Brewery (Shanghai) 207 Bozhou 239 Braun, Otto 416 Britain The “Great Game” 495, 547 in Hong Kong 313 invasion of Tibet 547 Opium Wars 69, 284 and Shanghai 189 tea trade 299 British Airways 613 Bronze Age 57 Bronze Pavilion (Summer Palace, Beijing) 106, 108 Bubang Wangtiansh Aerial Walkway (Mengla) 390 Buddha 36, 37 Buddha’s Birthday 51 Buddhism 36, 37, 491 108 Dagobas 481 10,000 Buddhas Monastery (Hong Kong) 326 Bezeklik Caves 509, 526–7 Bingling Si 490 Buddhist Grottoes (Gongyi) 164 carvings of Dazu 362–3 cave paintings of Dunhuang 500–501 Caves of the Three Immortals (Kashgar) 515 Chan (Zen) Buddhism 165, 364, 491 Da Zhao (Hohhot) 475 Dafo (Le Shan) 11, 15, 370–73 Eight Auspicious Symbols 546 Emei Shan 368–9 Famen Temple (Xi’an) 176 Fayuan Temple (Beijing) 104 Fulu Buddhist Nunnery (Sanjiang) 426 Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 109 Han dynasty 60, 61 Hualin Si (Guangzhou) 304 Jade Buddha Temple (Shanghai) 202 Jing’an Temple (Shanghai) 202 Jiuhua Shan 240 Labrang Monastery 486, 487 Lama Temple (Beijing) 98–9 Liu Rong Si (Guangzhou) 305 Longmen Caves 160–63 Luohan Si (Chongqing) 356 Maiji Shan 16, 484–5 Manfeilong Ta 391 Manjusri 141 Puning Si (Chengde) 130–31 Putuo Shan 254–5 Qixia Si (Nanjing) 237
Buddhism (cont.) Shaolin Temple 164 Thousand Buddha Cliffs (Nanjing) 237 Thousand Buddha Mountain (Jinan) 148 Tianlong Shan Grottoes (Taiyuan) 143 Tiantai Buddhist sect 253 Water Curtain Thousand Buddha Caves (Luomen) 486 Xumi Shan Caves 480 Yuantong Si (Kunming) 380 Yungang Caves 138–9 see also Tibetan Buddhism Budget hotels 554 Bulang Shan 391 Bund (Shanghai) 12, 182, 189, 192–3, 201, 203 Bunu people 403 Burma see Myanmar Burma Road 383 Buses 618–19 airport 613, 614–15 city buses 620–21 long-distance 618–19 Business cards 602 Bykal, Lake 441
C C Bar (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Cafés, Internet 610 Cai Lun 32 Calendar 50, 601 Calligraphy 33, 225 What to Buy in China 588 Camera shops, Hong Kong and Macau 336, 337 Camões, Luis Vaz de 332 Camping 554–5 trekking and camping holidays 595 Canadian Embassy 605 Cang Jie 32 Cang Xin 46 Canglang Ting (Suzhou) 216–17 Cangyan Shan 136 Canidrome (Macau) 13, 338, 339 Canton see Guangzhou Canton TV Tower (Pudong) 46 Cantonese cuisine 288 Cantonese language 285 Cao Hai 403, 408 Cao shu calligraphy 33 Cao Xueqin 96 Card phones 610 Cards, business 602 Carpets Beijing shops 118, 119 Gang Gyen Carpet Factory (Shigatse) 548 Carvings Bingling Si 490 Dazu 362–3 Maiji Shan 16, 484–5
Cathay Pacific 613 Cathedrals Our Lady of China (Shanghai) 205 Ruinas de São Paulo (Macau) 13, 332 South Cathedral (Beijing) 91 Wang Hai Lou Cathedral (Tianjin) 135 Xi Kai Cathedral (Tianjin) 135 Xujiahui Catholic Cathedral (Shanghai) 205 see also Churches Catholic Church Catholic Church (Jilin) 453 Our Lady of Lourdes (Shamian Island) 307 Sacred Heart Church (Guangzhou) 304 South Cathedral (Beijing) 91 Xujiahui Catholic Cathedral (Shanghai) 205 Causeway Bay (Hong Kong) 317 Caves Bei Shan 363 Bezeklik Caves 499, 509 Bingling Si 490 carvings of Dazu 362–3 cave paintings of Dunhuang 10, 17, 491, 500–501 Caves of the Three Immortals (Kashgar) 515 Dragon Gate Grotto (Western Hills) 383 Dripping Water Cave (Shao Shan) 266 Guangxi 595 Huanglong Dong (Wulingyuan) 271 Kamikaze Caves (Lamma Island) 330 Karst Caves (Yixing County) 224 karst landscape 418–19 Longgong Dong 406–7 Longmen Caves 147, 160–63 Ludi Yan (Guilin) 421 Mahao Cave Tombs (Le Shan) 371 Maiji Shan 10, 16, 484–5 Mogao Caves 17, 467, 499, 501 Shizi Yan 309 Thousand Buddha Caves (Kizil) 17, 513 Tianlong Shan Grottoes (Taiyuan) 143 Tianxing 407 Water Curtain Thousand Buddha Caves (Luomen) 486 Wu Da Lian Chi 460 Xumi Shan Caves 473, 480 Yangshuo 424–5, 595 Yungang Caves 137, 138–9 Zhijin Dong 407 Caving 595 Cemeteries see Tombs and cemeteries
GENERAL INDEX
Central China 179–279 food and drink 186–7 hotels 559–61 Hunan and Hubei 265–79 Jiangsu and Anhui 209–43 map 180–81 peoples 31 Portrait of Central China 182–3 restaurants 575–9 Shanghai 189–207 traditional Chinese gardens 184–5 Zhejiang and Jiangxi 245–63 Central Highlands (Hainan Island) 310 Central, Hong Kong 13, 316 Central Plaza (Hong Kong) 316 Central-Mid-levels Escalator (Hong Kong) 320 Ceramics Ancient Pottery Factory (Jingdezhen) 261 Ceramic History Exposition (Jingdezhen) 261 Ciqi Kou (Chongqing) 357 Foshan 308 inventions 42, 43 porcelain 43, 260–61 Porcelain Museum (Jingdezhen) 261 Terracotta Army 60, 79, 167, 174–5 traditional arts 44 What to Buy in China 588 Chain hotels 557 Chan, Jackie 47, 165 Chan (W.W.) & Sons Tailor Ltd (Shanghai) 206, 207 Chan (Zen) Buddhism 165, 364, 491 Chang Ling (Beijing) 110–11 Chang Tang 528, 531 Chang’an see Xi’an Changbai Shan 443, 454–5 Changbai Waterfall 454 Changchun 437, 443, 452 restaurants 583 Changchun Guan (Wuhan) 272 Changjiao Miao people 412 Changsha 265, 266 hotels 560 restaurants 578–9 Changzhou 224 Chaotian Gong (Nanjing) 229 Chaotian Men (Chongqing) 11, 15, 356 Chaoyang Theater (Beijing) 119 Chaozhou 302 food and drink 289 Chapel of the Three Ages (Lhasa) 540 Charles V, King of France 471 Chatwin, Bruce 398 Chen clan 306 Chen Jia Ci (Guangzhou) 306 Chen Kaige 47
Chen Yi, statue of (Shanghai) 193 Chengde 127, 128–31 hotels 558 Puning Si 129, 130–31 restaurants 573 Chengdi emperor 58 Chengdu 15, 349, 355, 364–5 climate 54 hotels 562 map 365 restaurants 582–3 Chenghua emperor 58 Chenghuang Miao (Zhengzhou) 158 Chengyang 427 Cheung Ah Tse 320–21 Cheung Chau Bun Festival 339 Cheung Chau Island 13, 330 Cheung Po-Tsai 330 Cheung Sha 331 Chiang Kai-shek 204, 205, 303, 310 Chongqing 357 flees to Taiwan 72–3 and Guandong Communist uprising 304 Jinggang Shan 263 Linggu Pagoda (Nanjing) 235, 236 Lu Shan 258, 259 Nanjing 183, 229 Children 601 entertainment in Hong Kong and Macau 338–9 in hotels 557 Children’s Day 51 Children’s Palace (Shanghai) 200 China Eastern Airlines 615 China House Museum (Tianjin) 135 China Information Travel Service (CITS) 600 China National Museum (Beijing), Street-by-Street map 89 China Northwest Airlines 615 China Southern Airlines 615 China Super League 592, 595 Chinese Medicine Museum (Hangzhou) 246 Chinese New Year 48, 53, 339 Chinnery, George 332 Chishui 416 Chong’an 415 Chongdi emperor 58 Chongqing 15, 349, 355, 356–7 hotels 562 map 355, 357 pollution of Yangzi river 274 restaurants 582 A Week in Sichuan and Chongqing 11, 15 Chongqing Museum (Chongqing) 356 Chongqing Si (Lanzhou) 489 Chongshan Si (Taiyuan) 79, 143 Chongwu 291, 297
625
Chongxi Ta (Zhaoqing) 308 Chongyang (Double-ninth) Festival 53 Chongzhen emperor 58 Forbidden City 94 Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 96 Chongzheng Hall (Shenyang) 444 Chopsticks 569 Christianity Nestorian Christianity 168 see also Cathedrals; Churches Christmas Day 53 Chuandixia 117 Churches Catholic Church (Jilin) 453 Church of St. Sofia (Harbin) 456 Mu’en Tang (Shanghai) 194 Our Lady of Lourdes (Shamian Island) 307 Protestant Church (Qingdao) 152 Russian Orthodox Church (Shanghai) 202 Sacred Heart Church (Guangzhou) 304 St. Joseph’s Church (Beijing) 100 St. Michael’s Church (Qingdao) 152 see also Cathedrals Ci’an, Empress 115 Cinema see Film Ciping 263 Ciqi Kou (Chongqing) 357 Circuses 590–91 Cishi Ta (Wulingyuan) 267 Citibank 608 CITIC Minsk World (Shenzhen) 302 City God Temple (Shanghai) 198 City Museum (Kunming) 381 City walls 41 Chaozhou 302 Nanjing 230–31 Pingyao 41, 144 Xi’an 168 Zhaoqing 308 Citygate Outlets (Hong Kong) 337 Civil Aviation Administration of China (CAAC) 614, 615 Civil War 72 Cixi Beijing Opera 80 Boxer Rebellion 439 Empress Dowager 69, 107, 439 Summer Palace (Beijing) 106–8 tomb of 115 Xi’an 170 Climate 54–5 cold weather 606 heat and humidity 606 when to go 598 Climbing 594–5 Clothes in cold weather 606 etiquette 602
626
GENERAL INDEX
Clothes (cont.) Hong Kong and Macau shops 337 in hot weather 606 Shanghai shops 206, 207 what to take 598 women travelers 604 Cloud Dispelling Gate (Summer Palace, Beijing) 108 Le Club at La Maison (Shanghai) 207 Clubs Beijing 119 Hong Kong 338, 339 Shanghai 207 Coasts, landscape and wildlife 29 Coins 609 Cold weather 606 Coleridge, Samuel Taylor 478 Communications 610–11 Communist Party 22–3, 72 cult of Mao 268–9 Cultural Revolution 70–71 festivals 50, 52 and Guandong Communist uprising 304 Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) 357 Jinggang Shan 263 and literature 35 Long March 72, 262–3, 377 Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs (Shanghai) 205 People’s Republic of China founded 72–3 Shanghai 183 Site of the First National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party (Shanghai) 200 Zunyi Conference 416 Computer shops, Hong Kong and Macau 336, 337 Confucian Temple (Suzhou) 217 Confucianism 36, 57 Fuzi Miao (Nanjing) 228 Han dynasty 60 literature 34 Wenchang Ge (Yangzhou) 227 Confucius 34, 36, 60, 147, 149, 568–9 birthplace 79, 148–9 Confucius’ Birthday 52 Tai Shan 151 and the Yijing 39 Confucius Forest (Qufu) 149 Confucius Mansion (Qufu) 148–9 Confucius Temple (Beijing) 99 Confucius Temple (Jilin) 453 Confucius Temple (Qufu) 149 Confucius Temple (Tianjin) 135 Constellation (Shanghai) 207 Consulates 599 Convention & Exhibition Centre (Hong Kong) 316–17, 338, 339 Conversion charts 601
Corban Festival 53 Cormorant fishing 424 County Magistrates Residence (Pingyao) 144 Courier services 611 Courtyard houses, Beijing 97 Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) 104 Coward, Noel 317 Craft shops Beijing 118, 119 Hong Kong and Macau 336–7 Crafts see Arts and crafts Cranes (birds) 409 Zhalong Nature Reserve 458 Credit cards 586, 608–9 Crescent Moon Lake 466 Crime 604 Crowne Plaza 557 Cruises 367 Li river cruise 422–3 Yangzi cruise 358–60 Crystal Palace (Wu Da Lian Chi) 460 Cui Hu Gongyuan (Kunming) 14, 380 Cui Jian 47 Cuiheng 308 Cuiwei Yuan (Guiyang) 404 Cultural Centre (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Cultural Revolution 70–71, 73 arts and 46 Chuandixia 117 cult of Mao 268–9 and literature 35 and religion 36 Shanghai 183 in Tibet 525 Culture Club (Macau) 337 Currency 608–9 currency exchange 608 duty-free allowances 599 Customs see etiquette Customs House (Shanghai) 192 Customs House (Wuhan) 273 Customs information 599 Cycling 621 Cynical Realism school 46
D Da Hua Miao people 408, 412 Da Wang Feng 298 Da Xiangguo Si (Kaifeng) 156 Da Zhao (Hohhot) 475 Dabei Monastery (Tianjin) 135 Dacang Langmu Gansu Gompa (Langmusi) 486 Dadonghai 311 Dadu river 262, 377 Dafo (Le Shan) 11, 15, 370–73 Dafo Si (Shijiazhuang) 136 Dafo Si (Zhangye) 494 Dagobas, 108 (Ningxia) 481 Daguan Pavilion (Lake Dian) 383 Dai Miao (Tai Shan) 151
Dai people 30, 347, 389 Dai Minority Park 388 Xishuangbanna 389, 390 Daizong emperor 58 Dakong Shan 395 Dalai Hu 478 Dalai Lamas 524 Beihai Park (Beijing) 96 exile in India 525 Ganden Palace (Lhasa) 540 Lukhang (Lhasa) 532 Norbulingka (Lhasa) 533 Pelkor Chode Monastery (Gyantse) 547 Potala Palace (Lhasa) 538–9 Samye Monastery 545 Summer Palace (Lhasa) 533 Tashilunpo Monastery (Shigatse) 548–9 Tibetan Oracle 540–41 Yellow Hat Sect 140 Dali 10, 14, 349, 379, 392–4 hotels 562 map 393 pagodas 171, 392–3 restaurants 582 Dali Museum (Dali) 392 Dali Sutra Pillar (Kunming) 381 Dalian 437, 443, 450–51 hotels 562 map 451 Public Security Bureau (PSB) 599 restaurants 583–4 Daluo 391 Damenglong 391 Daming Hu (Jinan) 148 Daming Si (Yangzhou) 226 Dance, traditional 591 Dandong 437, 443, 446–7 Daning river 359 Danxia Shan 309 Daode Guan (Zhangye) 494 Daoguang emperor 59 Daoism 36, 37, 57 Dong Yue Miao (Beijing) 99 Eight Immortals 155 Eight Immortals Temple (Xi’an) 167, 170 Empress of Heaven 155 Fung Ying Sin Koon (New Territories) 327 Han dynasty 60, 61 Heng Shan 267 Hua Shan 177 literature 34 qi 38 Qingcheng Shan 374 Qingyang Gong (Chengdu) 364 Songshan 164 tai ji quan (Tai Chi) 279 Tai Shan 150–51 traditional Chinese gardens 184 traditional medicine 238 White Clouds Temple (Beijing) 104–5
GENERAL INDEX
Daoism (cont.) Wudang Shan 278 Xuanmiao Guan (Suzhou) 211 The Dar (Shanghai) 207 Datong 127, 137 hotels 558 restaurants 573–4 Daur people 460 David’s Shirts (Hong Kong) 337 Daxu, Li river cruise 422 Daxue Shan, Long March 262 Dazhalan (Beijing) 91 Dazhen 388 Dazheng Hall (Shenyang) 444 Dazu, carvings of 11, 15, 355, 362–3 Deep Water Bay 329 Dehydration 606 Deities, Buddhist 527 Democracy movement 73 Deng Xiaoping 21, 73, 302 Deng Yingchao 357 Dengfeng 164 Department stores 587 Beijing 118, 119 Hong Kong 336, 337 Departure tax, air travel 613 Deqin, hotels 562 Deserts Chang Tang 531 desertification 469 Gobi Desert 79, 476 landscape and wildlife 27 Taklamakan Desert 467, 498, 507, 519 Detian Falls 403, 431 Dezong emperor 58 DHL Worldwide Express 611 Di Tan Park (Beijing) 99 Dialects 600 Dialling codes 611 Dian Kingdom of 348, 379 Lake 383 Diaoshuilou Pubu (Jingpo Hu) 458 Diarrhea 606 Ding Ling (Beijing) 111 Ding Shan 224 Dinghu Shan 308 Dinosaur Museum (Zigong) 361 Dinosaurs see Fossils Disabled travelers 557, 600 Discos 591 Discounts air travel 613, 615 in hotels 555 Discovery Bay 331 Diseases 606–7 immunization 599, 607 Disneyland, Hong Kong 331, 338, 339 Divine Cliffs (Yandang Shan) 183, 253 Divine Peaks (Yandang Shan) 253 Dixia Senlin 458
Doctors 605 Dog meat 405 Dong Hu (Shaoxing) 252 Dong people architecture 426, 427 Guizhou and Guangxi 403 Dong Yue Miao (Beijing) 99 Dongba religion 399 Dongba Research Institute (Lijiang) 398 Donghai Park (Dalian) 450 Donghe (Baotou) 476 Dongjiang cooking 289 Dongshan Ling 310 Dongsheng 476 Dongson drums 429, 430 Dongting Hu 265, 267 Dongxiang people 488, 511 Dormitories 554 security 604 Dost Mohammed 495 Double-ninth (Chongyang) Festival 53 Doupotang Falls 407 Dragon Boat Festivals 51, 339, 413 Dragon Culture (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Dragon Gate Grotto (Western Hills) 383 Dragon Head Hill, Li river cruise 423 Dragon Head Rock (Wudang Shan) 278 Dragon King Temple (Summer Palace, Beijing) 108 Dragon-i (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Dragonair 615 Dragons 94 Dragon’s Head Cliff (Lu Shan) 258 Drepung Monastery (Lhasa) 540 Drinks see Food and drink Dripping Water Cave (Shao Shan) 266 Drop (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Drugs, prescription 605 Drum Tower (Beijing) 98 Drum Tower (Nanjing) 232–3 Drum Tower (Sanjiang) 426 Drum Tower (Xi’an) 169 Drum Tower (Zhongwei) 480 Drums, Dongson 429, 430 Du Fu 34, 62, 64 Du Fu’s Thatched Cottage (Chengdu) 364 Du Ta (Manting) 390 Du Wen Xiu 392 Du Wenya 446 Du Yuesheng 195 Duan, Prince 439 Duanzong emperor 59 Dujiangyan 374–5 Dunhuang 17, 498 cave paintings of Dunhuang 10, 483, 491, 500–501 hotels 563
627
Dunhuang (cont.) Mogao Caves 17, 467, 499, 501 restaurants 584–5 silk paintings 63 Dunhuang Gucheng 498 Duoyun Xuan (Shanghai) 207 Dutong 427 Duty-free allowances 599 Duxiu Feng (Guilin) 421 Duzong emperor 59 Dye, D.S. 365 Dynasties 58–9 see also individual dynasties Dysentery 607 Dzong (Gyantse) 547 Dzong (Shigatse) 548
E E-mail facilities 610 E’Ang Zongzhe 487 Earthen dwellings of Yongding 296 East China Sea 182 East Tomb (Shenyang) 445 Eastern Han dynasty 58, 60–61 Eastern Palaces (Forbidden City) 94–5 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Eastern Zhou dynasty 57, 59 Edward Youde Aviary (Hong Kong) 339 Eight Auspicious Symbols 546 Eight Banners 436 Eight Hermits Hall (Nancheng) 257 Eight Immortals Temple (Xi’an) 167, 170 18 September Museum (Shenyang) 444 Electricity 601 Electronics shops, Hong Kong and Macau 336, 337 Elephant Trunk Hill, Li river cruise 422 Elephants, Wild Elephant Valley 388 Embassies 599, 605 Emei Shan 15, 355, 368–9 Emergencies 605 Emin, Prince 508 Emin Ta (Turpan) 508 Empress of Heaven 155 Engels, Friedrich 303 English language 600 Entertainment 590–91 Beijing 118–19 Hong Kong and Macau 338–9 Shanghai 206–7 Environmental problems 595 desertification 469 Three Gorges Dam 274 Er Hai 14, 348, 394 map 393 Er Hai Park 394 Er Shi emperor 59
628
GENERAL INDEX
Erwang Miao (Dujiangyan) 375 Ethnic minorities 24–5, 30–31 food and drink 567 River Border 461 see also individual peoples Etiquette 602–3 food and drink 568–9 Everest, Mount 531 base camp 525, 550–51 Ewenki people 461 Exchange rates 608 EXIT (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Exports, customs information 599
F Face saving, etiquette 602 Famen Temple (Xi’an) 176 Fan Pagoda (Kaifeng) 157 Fang Lijun, Series 2 No. 2 46–7 Fanpai 414 Fast food 567 Fayu Si (Putuo Shan) 255 Fayuan Temple (Beijing) 104 Federal Express 611 Feilai 309 Feixia 309 Feiyun Dong 415 Felix (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Fen river 143 Feng shui 39 Fengcong karst 419, 423 Fenghuan Ta (Chaozhou) 302 Fenghuang Shan 447 Fenghuang Shan Lu Revolution Headquarters Site (Yan’an) 177 Fenghuang Song (Jiuhua Shan) 240 Fenglin karst 419 Fengxian Si (Longmen Caves) 160 Ferries 619 Festivals 50–53 good luck and prosperity 48–9 Hong Kong 339 Miao people 412–13, 415 Fez (Beijing) 119 Fifth Moon Festival 51 Film 46, 591 Beijing 118–19 festivals 51 Kung Fu film industry 165 Shanghai 207 Fire services 605 Fireworks 48–9 Firing range 594 First-aid kit 606 Fishing, cormorant 424 Fitzgerald, Lieutenant 332 Five Dynasties 58, 64 5-Level Double Ship Lock (Three Gorges Dam) 275 Five Rams Statue (Guangzhou) 307 Five-colored Pool, Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 Flaming Mountains (Turpan) 509
Flood Control Monument (Harbin) 456 Flower Market (Hong Kong) 323 Flower Theater (Bozhou) 239 Flowers see Parks and gardens; Plants Fo Si (Manting) 390 Foguang Si (Wutai Shan) 142 Folk Culture Village (Shenzhen) 302 Food and drink 25 alcohol 603 Beijing and the North 82–3 Central China 186–7 customs and etiquette 568–9 dog meat 405 festivals 49 grapes and wine 510 “little eats” 567 Macau 335 rice 286–7 Sheung Wan’s Markets (Hong Kong) 321 South China 288–9 Southwest China 352–3 stomach upsets 606 The Story of Tea 299 street food 566 symbolism 565 Tsingtao beer 152 What to Drink in China 570–71 see also Restaurants Football (soccer) 590, 592 Forbidden City 12, 40, 67, 92–5, 438–9 Visitors’ Checklist 93 Foreign Languages Bookstore (Beijing) 100 Forest of Stelae Museum (Xi’an) 168 Forests, Northeast China 28 Former Headquarters of the Hubei Military Government (Wuhan) 272 Former Supreme Court (Hong Kong) 316 Formula One Grand Prix 592, 595 Forrest, George 350, 351 Fortaleza do Monte (Macau) 13, 332 Fortress (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Foshan 308 Foshan Folk Art Studio (Foshan) 308 Fossils 459 Dinosaur Museum (Zigong) 361 Inner Mongolia Museum (Hohhot) 474 Wenya Museum (Jinzhou) 446 Foster, Sir Norman 316 Founding of Chinese Communist Party Day 52 Fragrant Isle (Suzhou) 212 French Concession (Shanghai) 13, 200 French Legation (Kunming) 380
Friendship Highway 525, 550, 551 Fringe Club (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Frost bite 606 Fubo Shan (Guilin) 421 Fuguo Si (Lijiang) 398 Fujian province 284, 291–9 hotels 561 map 291 restaurants 579 Fujiazhuang Scenic Area 450–51 Fuli Village 425 Fulu Buddhist Nunnery (Sanjiang) 426 Furniture Museum (Pingyao) 144 Furongzhen 267 Fuxing Lu (Dali) 392 Fuxing Park (Shanghai) 13, 200 Fuzhou 291, 298 hotels 561 restaurants 579 Fuzi Miao (Nanjing) 228
G Galleries see Museums and galleries Gambling, Hong Kong 338, 339 Games, in public parks 590 Ganden Monastery (Lhasa) 524, 531, 541, 542–3 Ganden Palace (Lhasa) 540 Gang of Four 71, 73, 183 Gang Gyen Carpet Factory (Shigatse) 548 Gangzaihou Beach (Gulangyu Island) 293 Ganjia Grasslands 486 Ganlaba 388 Gansu province 466, 467, 483 hotels 563 map 483 restaurants 584–5 Gansu Provincial Museum (Lanzhou) 16, 489 Gantong Si (Dali) 393 Gao Miao (Zhongwei) 480 Gao Ming, General 381 Gao Xingjian 34 Gao Zhishen 383 Gaochang Gucheng 509 Gaochang Ruins 17, 19, 499 Gaodi emperor 58, 60 Gaoding 427 Gaozong emperor 58, 59, 63, 170, 176 Gaozu emperor 58 Garden of Harmonious Pleasures (Summer Palace, Beijing) 107 Garden Tomb of Puhaddin (Yangzhou) 227 Garden of Virtue and Harmony (Summer Palace, Beijing) 107, 108 Gardens see Parks and gardens
GENERAL INDEX
Gasa 391 Gate of Divine Prowess (Forbidden City) 95 Gate of Heavenly Purity (Forbidden City) 40, 94 Gate of Supreme Harmony (Forbidden City) 92 Gay and lesbian travelers 604–5 Ge Yuan (Yangzhou) 226 Geija Miao people 412, 413, 415 The Geisha (Shanghai) 207 Gelanghe 390–91 Gelugpa sect see Yellow Hat Sect Genden Drup 548 General Post Office 611 Genghis Khan 58, 66, 467, 468–9, 477 and Beijing 85 Genghis Khan’s Mausoleum (Dongsheng) 476, 477 Inner Mongolia Museum (Hohhot) 474 Geology, karst 418–19 George III, King of England 439 German Concession (Qingdao) 152 Ghost City (Mongolia) 512 Ginseng 454 Giordano (Hong Kong) 337 Glacier, Hailou Gou 377 Glamour Bar (Shanghai) 207 Glossary 654–5 Gobi Desert 79, 476 Goccia (Hong Kong) 338, 339 G.O.D. (Hong Kong) 337 Golden Mile (Hong Kong) 322 Golden Water (Forbidden City) 92 Golf 592 Golmud 483, 503 Gomar Monastery 502 Gong, Prince, Prince Gong’s Mansion (Beijing) 12, 96, 119 Gong Li 145 Gongdi emperor 59 Gongqing Forest Park (Shanghai) 201 Gongtang Pagoda 487 Gongyi 164 Gongzong emperor 59 Good luck and prosperity 48–9 Gorgeous Arts and Crafts (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Government shops 587 Governor’s Residence (Qingdao) 152 Grand Canal 223, 224, 226 map 223 Grand Dragon Gate (Western Hills) 383 Grand Hyatt 557 Grape Valley (Turpan) 509 Grapes 510 Grasslands, Inner Mongolia 28, 475 Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 109 “Great Game” 495
Great Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) 16, 167, 170, 491 Great Hall of the People (Beijing), Street-by-Street map 88 Great Hall of the People (Chongqing) 356–7 Great Leap Forward 73 Great Mosque (Hohhot) 474 Great Mosque (Kuqa) 513 Great Mosque (Xi’an) 16, 169 Great Mosque (Xining) 502 Great Purity Palace (Lao Shan) 153 Great Wall of China 12, 21, 60, 78, 112–14 Great Wall Museum (Jiayuguan) 16, 494 Hexi Corridor 483 Hushan Great Wall (Dandong) 447 Jiayuguan Fort 10, 496–7 map 113 in Ming dynasty 67, 112–13 Shanhaiguan 134 Xuanbi Changcheng 494 Green Gang 200 Greeting people 602 Grünwedel, Albert 509 Gu Hua 267 Gu Nan Men (Guilin) 420 Gu Shan 298 Guan Yu, General 35, 158, 274, 360 Guang Wudi emperor 58, 60 Guangdong Communist uprising 304 Guangdong province 284, 301 hotels 561 map 301 restaurants 579–80 Guanghan Dong 407 Guanghua Lu (Tengchong) 395 Guangji Men (Chaozhou) 302 Guangji Si (Wuhu) 239 Guangxi province 348, 349, 403 caving 1006 food and drink 353 hotels 562 map 403 restaurants 583 A Week in Guangxi and Yunnan 10, 14 Guangxiao Si (Guangzhou) 305 Guangxu emperor 59, 69, 452 Beijing Opera 80 Confucius Temple (Beijing) 99 Summer Palace (Beijing) 107, 108 Xi’an 170 Guangzhou (Canton) 301, 304–7 air travel 615 food and drink 288 hospitals 605 hotels 561 map 305 Public Security Bureau (PSB) 599 restaurants 579 Visitors’ Checklist 305
629
Guangzong emperor 59 Guanlin (Luoyang) 158 Guanyin Colossus (Putuo Shan) 254 Guanyin Si (Dali) 393 Gui Shan (Wuhan) 273 Guia Fort and Lighthouse (Macau) 332 Guilin 10, 14, 349, 403, 419, 420– 23 hotels 562 Li river cruise 422–3 map 421 restaurants 583 Visitors’ Checklist 421 Guiping 428–9 Guiyang 404–5 map 405 restaurants 583 Guiyuan Si (Wuhan) 273 Guizhou province 348, 349, 403 food and drink 353 hotels 562 map 403 restaurants 583 Gulangyu Island 292–3 map 293 Gulong Si (Huanglong Xi) 374 Gulou (Yinchuan) 479 Gulou (Zhangye) 494 Gunzhong Pass 480 Guo Xi 226 Guoqing Si (Tiantai Shan) 253 Guqin Tai (Wuhan) 273 Gusong Qiao (Songpan) 375 Guyuan 473, 480 Gyantse 547
H Ha Noi Ruins (Kashgar) 515 Hai Rui 310 Haibao Ta (Yinchuan) 479 Haidong 394 Haigeng Park (Lake Dian) 383 Haikou (Hainan Island) 301, 310 air travel 615 Haila’er 473, 478 Hailou Gou Glacier 377 Hainan Coconut Festival 51 Hainan Ferry Port 431 Hainan Island 301, 310–11, 592 air travel 615 hotels 561 map 301, 311 restaurants 579–80 Hairy Crab Season 53 Haitong 371 Hakka people 285, 291 earthen dwellings of Yongding 296 Xincun 311 Hall of Attractive Scenery (Suzhou) 218 Hall of Benevolence and Longevity (Summer Palace, Beijing) 107, 108
630
GENERAL INDEX
Hall of Distance Fragrance (Suzhou) 213 Hall of Four Auspicious Merits (Suzhou) 219 Hall of Happiness and Longevity (Summer Palace, Beijing) 108 Hall of Imperial Peace (Forbidden City) 94 Hall of Jade Ripples (Summer Palace, Beijing) 108 Hall of Mental Cultivation (Forbidden City) 95 Hall of Middle Harmony (Forbidden City) 93 Hall of Supreme Harmony (Forbidden City) 93 Hall of Union (Forbidden City) 94 Han Chinese 30 Han dynasty 58, 60–61 porcelain 261 Han Jiang estuary 302 Han Xiangzi 37 Hanafi School, Islam 511 Hanas Lake Nature Reserve 512 Hanging Monastery (Heng Shan) 76 Hanging Palace (Cangyan Shan) 136 Hanging Temple (Heng Shan) 127, 137 Hangzhou 13, 183, 245, 246–51 food and drink 186 hotels 560 map 247 restaurants 578 West Lake 248–51 Hani people 30, 388 Hankou (Wuhan) 273 Hanlingyuan Museum (Yangzhou) 226 Hanshan Si (Suzhou) 217 Hanwen Gong Ci (Chaozhou) 302 Hao 167 Haoshang Bridge (Le Shan) 371 Happy Valley Racecourse (Hong Kong) 317, 338, 339 Harbin 282, 436, 437, 443, 456–7 climate 55 hotels 562–3 map 457 restaurants 584 skiing 593, 595 Harbin Northern Forest Zoo (Harbin) 457 Harbour City (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Harbour Plaza 557 Hardoon, Silas 202 He Lu, King of Wu 217 He Xiangning, tomb of 236 He Yuan (Yangzhou) 227 Health care 605 diseases 606–7 immunization 599, 607 stomach upsets and diarrhea 606
Heat 606 Heavenly Kingdom Rebellion see Taiping Rebellion Hebei province 78, 79, 127 hotels 558–9 map 127 restaurants 573–4 Hebei Provincial Museum (Shijiazhuang) 136 Hedi emperor 58, 61 Hedin, Sven 499 Hefei 239 Hei Ta 391 Heihe 460 Heikong Shan 395 Heilong Jiang 460 Heilong Tan Gongyuan (Lijiang) 398 Heilongjiang province 436, 443 hotels 562–3 restaurants 583–4 skiing 593, 595 Helan Shan 473, 480 Henan province 78, 147 hotels 559 map 147 restaurants 574–5 Henan Provincial Museum (Zhengzhou) 158 Heng river 137 Heng Shan 76, 137, 265, 267 Hepatitis 607 Heritage Museum (Hong Kong) 326 Heshun 96, 395 Hetian Regional Museum (Khotan) 519 Hetian Silk Factory (Khotan) 519 Hexi Corridor 483 Hezhen people 461 Hilton 557 Himalayas 355, 531 Everest base camp 525, 550–51 History 57–73 HIV 607 Hmong people see Miao people Ho, Dr. (Daoist physician) 398 Ho, Dr. Stanley 333, 334 Hohhot 473, 474–5 hotels 563 restaurants 584 Holiday Inn 557 Holidays, public 53, 556, 600 Hollywood Road (Hong Kong) 13, 320 Homosexuality 604–5 Honeychurch Antiques (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Hong Kong 313–31 air travel 613, 615 banks 608 climate 55 entertainment 338–9 film industry 47 food and drink 289 history 284, 313
Hong Kong (cont.) hospitals 605 hotels 561 map 314–15 The Peak 13, 318–19 public transport 620, 621 restaurants 580–81 returned to China 73 shopping 336–7 Street Finder 340–43 Two Days in Hongkong 10, 13 visas and passports 598 Hong Kong Academy of the Performing Arts 338, 339 Hong Kong Arts Centre 50, 338, 339 Hong Kong Coliseum 338, 339 Hong Kong Cultural Centre 322 Hong Kong Disneyland 331, 338, 339 Hong Kong Life Saving Society 329 Hong Kong Museum of Art 322 Hong Kong Museum of History 322–3 Hong Kong Rugby Football Union 592, 595 Hong Kong Science Museum 322 Hong Kong Wetland Park 327 Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens 13, 317 Hong Men Gong (Tai Shan) 151 Hong Qiao Market (Beijing) 12, 118, 119 Hong Xiuquan 229, 303, 428, 429 Hongcun 240 Hongqiao Airport (Shanghai) 613 Hongshan Park (Ürümqi) 510 Hongwu emperor 58, 66, 237 Linggu Temple (Nanjing) 235, 236 Ming Palace Ruins (Nanjing) 232 Taiping Heavenly Kingdom History Museum (Nanjing) 228 tomb of 234, 236 Wenchang Ge (Yangzhou) 227 Winning Chess Pavilion (Nanjing) 233 Xi’an 168 Zhonghua Gate (Nanjing) 230 Hongxi emperor 58 Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) 357 Hongzhi emperor 58, 260 Horses Happy Valley Racecourse (Hong Kong) 317, 338, 339 horse racing 52 horse trekking 595 Hospitality 602 Hospitals 605 Hotan 519 Hotels 554–63 advance booking 598 air conditioning 606
GENERAL INDEX
Hotels (cont.) bargaining 603 booking 555 children in 557 disabled travelers 557 hidden costs 555 hotel chains 557 restaurants 566 seasonal demand 556 security 604 smoking in 603 tipping in 557 House of Blues & Jazz (Shanghai) 207, 208 Houses Beijing’s courtyard houses 97 Dai people 389 Dong architecture 427 earthen dwellings of Yongding 296 Huizhou architecture 241 Howard Johnson 557 HSBC (Hong Kong & Shanghai Banking Corporation) 608 Headquarters (Hong Kong) 39, 316 Hu Jintao 23, 73 Hu Xueyan 246 Hua Shan 167, 177, 430 Huacheng Si (Jiuhua Shan) 240 Huading Peak (Tiantai Shan) 253 Huagang Garden (Hangzhou) 248 Huai river 209 Huai Su 196 Huaisheng Mosque (Guangzhou) 305 Huaiyang cuisine 187 Hualin Si (Guangzhou) 304 Huandi emperor 58 Huang Gongwang 45 Huang Shan 209, 242–3 Huang Shi Zhai (Wulingyuan) 270 Huangguoshu Falls 407 Huanghua Cheng 114 Huanglong 375 Huanglong Dong Park (Hangzhou) 246 Huanglong Dong (Wulingyuan) 271 Huanglong Xi 11, 15, 374 Huangpu Park (Shanghai) 201 Huangpu river 12, 182, 189, 190, 201 Huangyao 428 Huashi Lou (Qingdao) 153 Huating Si (Western Hills) 383 Huaxi District (Guiyang) 405 Huayan Si (Datong) 137 Huayi Classical Furniture (Beijing) 118, 119 Hubao Building Basement Market (Shanghai) 206 Hubei province 183, 265 hotels 560–61 map 265 restaurants 578–9
Hubei Provincial Museum (Wuhan) 272 Huguang Guildhall (Beijing) 119 Huguo Lu (Dali) 392 Hui Li 247 Hui Neng 305 Hui people 31, 466, 473 Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) 104 food and drink 83 Islam 511 Weining 408 Hui’an people 285, 297 Huidi emperor 58 Hui’e, legend of 255 Huihe 164 Huiji Si (Putuo Shan) 255 Huizhou architecture 241 Huizong emperor 59, 65 Hukeng 296 Huli Shan Paotai (Xiamen) 292 Hulunbuir Grasslands 478 Humble Administrator’s Garden (Suzhou) 212–13 Humidity 606 Hunan First Normal College (Changsha) 266 Hunan province 183, 265 hotels 560–61 map 265 restaurants 578–9 Hunan Provincial Museum (Changsha) 266 Hundred Flowers Movement 73 Hungry Ghost Festival (Hong Kong) 339 Huo Qubin, General 489 Huoshao Shan (Wu Da Lian Chi) 460 Hushan Great Wall (Dandong) 447 Huxingting Teahouse (Shanghai) 189, 199 Huxiyan (Xiamen) 292 Hyatt Regency 557 Hygiene 605 Hypothermia 606
I Ibis 557 Ice sculpture 456, 460 Id Kah Mosque (Kashgar) 17, 514 Ikparhan 516 Ili river 512, 513 Immunization 599, 607 Imperial Gardens (Forbidden City) 94 Imperial Palace (Shenyang) 438, 444 Imperial Zenith Hall (Forbidden City) 95 Impression West Lake (Hangzhou) 246
631
Incense Burner Peak (Beijing) 109 Influenza 607 Inner Mongolia and the Silk Roads 462–519 food and drink 83 Gansu and Qinghai 483–505 Genghis Khan 477 grasslands 28, 475 hotels 563 Inner Mongolia and Ningxia 473–81 Jiayuguan Fort 496–7 Maiji Shan 16, 484–5 maps 464–5, 473 Mongols of the Steppe 468–9 Portrait of Inner Mongolia and the Silk Roads 466–7 restaurants 584–5 Silk Road 470–71 The Spread of Buddhism 491 Trans Siberian Express 441 Xinjiang 507–19 Inner Mongolia Museum (Hohhot) 474 Inner Mongolia province 472–81 hotels 563 map 473 restaurants 584 Insect-borne diseases 607 Insurance 599, 605 Intercontinental 557 International Fashion Festival 52 International Finance Centre 316 International Labor Day 51 International Post Office 611 International Women’s Day 50 Internet facilities 610 Inventions 42–3 Irish Embassy 605 Iron Pagoda (Kaifeng) 156 Isetan (Shanghai) 206, 207 Islam see Muslims and Islam Islamic Cemetery (Guangzhou) 306–7 Island Beverley (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Itineraries Two Days in Beijing 10, 12 Two Days in Hongkong 10, 13 Two Days in Shanghai 10, 12–13 Two Weeks on the Silk Road 10, 16–17 A Week in Guangxi and Yunnan 10, 14 A Week in Sichuan and Chongqing 11, 15 Iyer, Pico 313
J Jade 519 Jade Belt Bridge (Summer Palace, Beijing) 108 Jade Buddha Temple (Shanghai) 202
632
GENERAL INDEX
Jade Dragon Snow Mountain 386–7, 398, 400, 592 Jade Market (Hong Kong) 323, 336, 337 James and Hooch (Beijing) 119 Jamyang Choje 540 Japan, occupation of Manchuria 72, 437, 443 Japanese Germ Warfare Experimental Base (Harbin) 457 Japanese-Russian Prison (Dalian) 451 Jar Hill Observation Platform (Three Gorges Dam) 275 Le Jardin (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Jardine Matheson 203 Jesuits astronomy 100 and Ming dynasty 67 and Qing dynasty 68, 69 Ruinas de Sπo Paulo (Macau) 332 Yuanming Yuan (Beijing) 109 Jet Li 165 Jewelry shops, Hong Kong and Macau 336, 337 Jewish Refugee Museum (Shanghai) 204 Jews, in Kaifeng 156, 157 Jiajing emperor 58, 59 Jialing river 356 Jian Lou (Arrow Tower, Beijing) 90 Street-by-Street map 88 Jian Zhen 226 Jianfeng Chi (Stone Forest) 385 Jianfeng Ling Nature Reserve 311 Jianfu Gong (Qingcheng Shan) 374 Jiang Qing 71 Jiang Zemin 73, 227 Jiangsu province 209 hotels 560 map 209 restaurants 577 Jiangxi province 245 hotels 560 map 245 Nanchang Uprising 183 restaurants 578 Jiangxin Park (Wenzhou) 253 Jianshan Si (Yangshuo) 424–5 Jianwen emperor 58 Jiao Shan 134, 224 Jiaohe Ruins (Turpan) 10, 17, 508 Jiaxiu Lou (Guiyang) 404 Jiayin Hall (Tongli) 222 Jiayuguan 16, 483, 494 Jiayuguan Fort 10, 16, 496–7 Jiazhou Huayuan (Le Shan) 370 Jile Si (Harbin) 457 Jilin 453 Jilin province 436, 443 hotels 562–3 restaurants 583–4 Jimei School Village (Xiamen) 292 Jin Dian (Kunming) 382
Jin Ding Si (Emei Shan) 369 Jin dynasty 58, 64, 65 Jin Qiaojue 240 Jin Qu Xi 298 Jin Shan Park (Zhenjiang) 224 Jinan 148 hotels 559 restaurants 574 Jinci Si (Taiyuan) 143 Jindian Gong (Wudang Shan) 278 Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 12, 96 Jing’an Temple (Shanghai) 202 Jingang Palace (Lanzhou) 489 Jingdezhen 183, 245, 261 Jingdi emperor 58 Jinggang Shan 245, 263 Long March 263 Jinghong 347, 388 Jingjiang Prince’s Palace (Guilin) 421 Jingpo Hu 437, 443, 458 Jingtai emperor 58 Jingzhen 390 Jingzhou 274 Jingzong emperor 58 Jinjiang Hotel (Shanghai) 200 Jinjiang Inn 557 Jinmao Tower (Shanghai) 12, 195 Jinpeng Pass 593 Jinsha Jiang 400 Jinsuo Dao 394 Jintian 428, 429 Jinzhou 446 Jitang 427 Jitong railway 593 Jiuhua Shan 180, 209, 240 Jiujiang 258 Jiulong Bi (Datong) 127 Jiuzhai Gou 355 Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 Jokhang Temple (Lhasa) 525, 534, 536–7 Joyce (Hong Kong) 337 Jue Yuan (Guiyang) 404 Juma river 117 Jumbo Floating Restaurants (Aberdeen) 328 Jungle 29 Bupan Aerial Walkway (Mengla) 390 Southwest China 351 Xishuangbanna 390, 391 Junshan Dao 267 Justinian, Emperor 214 Juyong Guan 114 JZ Club (Shanghai) 206, 207
K Kadoorie Farm & Botanic Garden 327, 339 Kaifeng 78, 147, 156–7, 159 map 157 Kaili 403, 414 Kaishu calligraphy 33
Kaiyuan Si (Chaozhou) 302 Kaiyuan Si (Fuzhou) 298 Kaiyuan Si (Quanzhou) 297 Kang Mei Yuan Chao Zhanzheng (Dandong) 447 Kangding 377 Kangxi emperor 59, 68, 128, 438 Baoguang Si 366 Chengde 128 Da Zhao (Hohhot) 475 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Forbidden City 95 Marco Polo Bridge 116 Karakoram Highway 518 Karakoram Mountains 507 Karaoke 591 Karghilik 519 Karma Phuntso Namgyel 548 Karmapa (Black Hats) order 546 Karst 418–19 Karst Caves (Yixing County) 224 Kashgar 10, 17, 467, 507, 514–17 Aba Khoja Mausoleum 516–17 hotels 563 map 515 restaurants 585 Visitors’ Checklist 515 Kashgaria 495, 507, 512, 514 Kazakhs 30, 510, 511 Kazakhstan 507 Kegong Fang (Lijiang) 396 Kelsang Potrang (Lhasa) 533 Khaishan 58 Khampa people 377 Khi Vehdu 202 Khoshila 58 Khunjerab Pass 518 King of Borneo’s Tomb (Nanjing) 237 King Wah Building (Hong Kong) 337 Kipling, Rudyard 495 Kite flying 591 festivals 50 Kizil 513 KLM 613 Knives, Yengisar Country Small Knife Factory 518 Ko Shan Theatre (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Kodari 551 Kong family 149 Kongtong Shan 490 Kongzhong Tianyuan (Wulingyuan) 270 Korea 443, 446–7 Kotnis, Dwarkanath 136 Kowloon 284, 313 map 315 see also Hong Kong Koxinga Memorial Hall (Gulang Yu) 293 Koxinga (Zheng Chenggong) 292, 293
GENERAL INDEX
Kublai Khan 58, 66, 348, 394, 398 Beijing 79, 90, 96 and Chinese cuisine 82 Dongxiang people 488 Sakya Monastery 550 Xanadu 478 Kuixing Tower (Pingyao) 145 Kumarajiva 498, 513 Kumbum (Gyantse) 547 Kumbum Monastery see Ta’er Si Kundulun (Baotou) 476 Kung, H.H. 193, 204 Kung Fu 164, 165, 594 tai ji quan (Tai Chi) 279 Kunming 10, 14, 379, 380–83 climate 54 hotels 562 map 381 Muslim Uprising 348 restaurants 583 Kunming Lake 85 Kuomintang (KMT) 72 and the Long March 262 Kuqa 10, 17, 513 Kwan Yu 321 Kyrgyz people 511
L Labor Park (Dalian) 450 Labrang Monastery 16, 467, 483, 486, 487, 531 Labrang Nyingba (Lhasa) 535 Lacquerware 298 Laifeng Monastery (Tengchong) 395 Laifeng Shan Park (Tengchong) 395 Lama Temple (Beijing) 79, 98–9 Lamaism 140 Wudang Zhao 476 Lamma Fisherfolk’s Village (Lamma Island) 330 Lamma Island 13, 330 Lan Kwai Fong (Hong Kong) 320 Lan Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou) 489 Lan Ting (Shaoxing) 252 The Landmark (Hong Kong) 316, 336, 337 Landscape 26–9 karst 418–19 Lang Mei Xian Ci (Wudang Shan) 278 Langde 414 Langmusi 486 Language and script 24, 32–3, 600 Cantonese 285 phrase book 656–60 Zhuang people 430 Lantau Island 13, 330–31 map 330–31 Lantau Peak 331 Lantern Festival 50 Lanzhou 16, 171, 467, 483, 488–9 hotels 563 map 488–9 restaurants 585
Lao Hei Shan (Wu Da Lian Chi) 460 Lao Long Tou 134 Lao Shan 153 Lao She Teahouse (Beijing) 119 Laojun Pavilion (Qingcheng Shan) 374 Laojun Yan 297 Laos 379, 390 Laozi 36, 37 Laojun Yan (Quanzhou) 297 Luoyang 158 Qingyang Gong (Chengdu) 364 Largo do Senado (Macau) 13, 333 Later Jin dynasty 68 Le Coq, Albert von 499, 509, 513 Le Shan 355 Dafo 11, 15, 370–73 Lee, Bruce 165 Legalism 57, 60 Lei Shan 414 Leigong Shan 414 Leitai Si (Wuwei) 494 Lenin, V.I. 105 Lesbian travelers 604–5 Lhasa 503, 525, 532–41 air travel 615 Barkhor 534–5 climate 54 hotels 563 Jokhang Temple 525, 534, 536–7 map 532–3 Potala Palace 525, 538–9 restaurants 585 Visitors’ Checklist 533 Li, Jet 165 Li Bai 34, 62, 64 Qutang Gorge 359 tomb of 239 Li Bing 374 Li Cang, Marquis of Dai 266 Li Chun 136 Li Guangxiu 382 Li people 31, 285, 301, 310 Li Qingzhao Memorial Hall (Jinan) 148 Li river 348, 349 at Guilin 420 karst landscape 418 Li river cruise 14, 422–3 Li Xiucheng 210 Li Zhisui 269 Lianfengshan Park (Beidaihe) 134 Liangma Antique Market (Beijing) 118, 119 Liangying, Zhang 246 Liao Bingxiong 307 Liao dynasty 58, 64 Liao Zhongkai, tomb of 236 Liaoning province 436, 443, 444 hotels 562–3 restaurants 583–4
633
Liberation Monument (Chonqing) 356, 357 Life (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Ligong Pagoda (Hangzhou) 247 Lijiang 10, 14, 349, 379, 396–8, 399 hotels 562 restaurants 583 Street-by-Street map 396–7 Visitors’ Checklist 397 Limestone, karst 418–19 Lin Biao 71, 73 Lin Mo 155 Lin Zexu 298 Lin Zexu Memorial Hall (Fuzhou) 298 Lingdi emperor 58 Linggu Pagoda (Nanjing) 235, 236 Linggu Temple (Nanjing) 235, 236 Lingshui 310–11 Lingyin Si (Hangzhou) 247 Lingyun Ting (Zhenjiang) 224 Linxia 488 Lishu calligraphy 33 Literature 34–5 customs information 599 “Little eats” 567 Little, Edward 258 Liu Bei 360 tomb of 365 Liu Rong Si (Guangzhou) 305 Liu Shaoqi 71 Liu Xu, tomb of 226 Liu Yazi 222 Liu Yuan (Suzhou) 217 Liubiju (Beijing) 91 Liugong Island 155 Liulichang (Beijing) 91, 118 Lizong emperor 59 Loess plateau 159 Lok Cha Tea Shop (Hong Kong) 336–7 Long Corridor (Summer Palace, Beijing) 107, 108 Long Lake, Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 Long March 72, 183, 262–3 Luding Chain Bridge 262, 377 Zunyi Conference 416 Longevity Hill (Summer Palace, Beijing) 106, 108 Longgong Dong 406–7 Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs (Shanghai) 205 Longhua Si (Shanghai) 205 Longji Titian 410–11, 426 Longjing Village (Hangzhou) 246 Longmen Caves 79, 147, 160–63 Longqing emperor 58 Longquan Si (Wutai Shan) 142 Longrui Nature Preserve 430 Longshan culture 57 Longsheng 14, 426 Longtan Village 425 Longting Park (Kaifeng) 157
634
GENERAL INDEX
Longwu Si (Tongren) 502 Lotus Flower Cave (Longmen Caves) 161 Lovers’ Festival 52 Lowland landscape and wildlife 29 Lu Xun Park (Shanghai) 204 Lu, Y.C. 236 Lu Yu 299 Lu Hou emperor 58 Lu Shan 245, 258–9 Long March 262 Lu Su, tomb of 273 Lu Xun 35, 204 Lu Xun’s Former Residence (Shaoxing) 252 Luck and prosperity 48–9 Ludi Yan (Guilin) 421 Luding 377 Luding Chain Bridge 262, 377 Lufthansa 613 Lukhang (Lhasa) 532 Lunar calendar 50 Luo Yue people 430 Luohan Hall (Baoguang Si) 366 Luohan Si (Chongqing) 356 Luohou Si (Wutai Shan) 140 Luomen 486 Luoshi Ta (Wuwei) 494 Luoyang 78, 147, 158 air travel 615 hotels 559 restaurants 574 Luoyang City Museum (Luoyang) 158 Lushun 451 Lyceum Theater (Shanghai) 206, 207
M Mac Lehose Trail (New Territories) 327 Macartney, Lord 68, 69, 439 Macau 13, 332–5 airport 613 entertainment 338–9 food and drink 335 history 313 hotels 561 map 333 Portuguese colony 284, 313, 332 restaurants 581 returned to China 73 shopping 336–7 visas and passports 598 Visitors’ Checklist 333 Macau Cultural Centre 338, 339 Macau Museum 13, 332 Macau Tower 334 Magazines 611 Mahao Cave Tombs (Le Shan) 371 Mahayana Buddhism 37, 491 see also Buddhism Mahjong 590 Mai Po Marshes 327
Maiji Shan 10, 16, 484–5 Mail services 610 Maitreya Buddha 540 Majestic Theater (Shanghai) 206, 207 Malaria 607 Maling Canyon 408 Malone’s (Shanghai) 207 Man Mo Temple (Hong Kong) 13, 320 Manchu dynasty 68, 436, 438–9 Manchukuo 72, 437, 443, 452 Manchuria 72, 436–7, 443 Mandalas 540 Mandarin Chinese 32, 600 Mandarin Duck Hall (Suzhou) 212 Manfeilong Ta 391 Manguanghan 391 Manguanglong Si (Gasa) 390 Manjusri 141 Manjusri Temple (Lhasa) 540 Manlei Si (Mengzhe) 390 Manpo 391 Manting 390 Manting Park (Jinghong) 388 Manting Wat (Jinghong) 388 Manzhouli 478 Mao Ling (Xi’an) 176 Mao Zedong 105, 256 birthplace 265, 266, 268 Changsha 266 cult of Mao 268–9 Cultural Revolution 70–71, 73 death 73 Dripping Water Cave (Shao Shan) 266 founds People’s Republic of China 72 Great Leap Forward 73 Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) 357 Hunan 183 Long March 72, 262–3 Lu Shan 258, 259 Mao Ancestral Temple (Shao Shan) 266 Mao Zedong Memorial Museum (Shao Shan) 266 Mao’s Family House (Shao Shan) 266 Mao’s Villa (Wuhan) 272 Mausoleum (Beijing) 12, 88 Monument to the People’s Heroes (Beijing) 89 and Northeast China 437 Ode to Plum Blossom (Stone Forest) 384 Peasant Movement Institute (Guangzhou) 304 Site of the First National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party (Shanghai) 200 statues of 298, 444, 446 Tai Shan 151 Tian’an Men (Beijing) 89
Mao Zedong (cont.) Underground City (Beijing) 90 Yan’an 177 Zunyi Conference 416 Maotai 416 Maps Asia 1010 Beijing 86–7 Beijing: Street Finder 120–25 Beijing: Tian’an Men Square 88–9 Beijing and the North 76–7 Central China 180–81 Changbai Shan 454–5 Chengdu 365 China 18–19, 1010–11 Chongqing 357 Dali and Er Hai 393 Dalian 451 Emei Shan 368–9 Fujian 291 Gansu and Qinghai 483 Genghis Khan’s empire 477 Grand Canal 223 Great Wall of China 113 Greater Beijing 86 Greater Shanghai 191 Guangdong and Hainan 301 Guangzhou 305 Guilin 421 Guiyang 405 Guizhou and Guangxi 403 Hainan Island 311 Hangzhou 247 Harbin 457 Hebei, Tianjin and Shanxi 127 Hong Kong 314–15 Hong Kong: Street Finder 340– 43 Huang Shan 242–3 Huangpu river 201 Hunan and Hubei 265 Inner Mongolia and Ningxia 473 Inner Mongolia and the Silk Roads 464–5 Jiangsu and Anhui 209 Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 Kaifeng 157 Kashgar 515 Kowloon 315 Kunming 381 Lantau Island 330–31 Lanzhou 488–9 Lhasa 532–3 Li river cruise 422–3 Lijiang 396–7 Long March 262–3 Longmen Caves 161 Macau 333 Miao communities 412 Miao villages 415 Nanchang 257 Nanjing 229 Northeast China 434–5 The Peak (Hong Kong) 318–19
GENERAL INDEX
Maps (cont.) Qingdao 152–3 Shaanxi province 167 Shamian Island 306–7 Shandong and Henan 147 Shanghai 190–91 Shenyang 445 Shigatse 549 Sichuan and Chongqing 355 Silk Road 471 South China 282–3 Southwest China 346–7 The Spread of Buddhism 491 Suzhou 211 Tai Shan 150–51 Tianjin 135 Tibet 522–3 Tiger Leaping Gorge 400–401 Trans Siberian Express 441 Wuhan 272–3 Wulingyuan 270–71 Wutai Shan 140–41, 142 Xiamen and Gulangyu Island 293 Xi’an 169 Xinjiang 507 Xishuangbanna 391 Yangshuo 425 Yangzhou 227 Yangzi cruise 358–9 Yunnan 379 Zhejiang and Jiangxi 245 Marble Boat (Summer Palace, Beijing) 106 Marble Carriageway (Forbidden City) 93 Marco Polo Bridge 116 Marco Polo Hotels 557 Maritime Museum (Macau) 334 Markets 587 Bazaar (Turpan) 508 Beijing 100 Bird and Flower Market (Kunming) 380 Bird and Flower Markets (Hong Kong) 323 Dai people 389 Hong Kong and Macau 336, 337 Jade Market (Hong Kong) 323, 336, 337 Medicinal Market (Bozhou) 239 Night Market (Shigatse) 548 Qingping Market (Guangzhou) 304 Shanghai 206 Sheung Wan’s Markets (Hong Kong) 321 Shuijing Xiang Market (Xining) 502 Sunday Market (Kashgar) 514 Temple Street Market (Hong Kong) 323, 336, 337 Tibetan market (Shigatse) 548 see also Shopping Marks & Spencer (Hong Kong) 337
Marriott 557 Martial arts 38, 594 festivals 52 Kung Fu 164, 165 Martial Arts School (Wudang Shan) 278 Martyrs’ Memorial Hall (Heng Shan) 267 Martyrs’ Memorial (Nanjing) 237 Martyrs’ Park (Changsha) 266 Marx, Karl 105, 303 Mason, Richard 316 Masta 605 Matang 415 Mati Si (Zhangye) 494 May 7 Cadre Schools 71 Mazu Miao (Meizhou Island) 297 MD Travel Health 605 Measurements 601 Medical facilities 605 Medical insurance 599, 605 Medicine Chinese Medicine Museum (Hangzhou) 246 Medicinal Market (Bozhou) 239 Traditional medicine 238 “Meet in Beijing” Festival 51 Mei Lanfang 81 Mei Yuan (Taihu) 222 Meilu Villa (Lu Shan) 259 Meiyuan Xincun (Nanjing) 232 Meizhou Island 285, 291, 297 Mekong river 379, 388, 531 Melikawat 519 Mencius 147, 149 Mengda Tian Chi 503 Menghai 390 Menghun 391 Mengla 390 Menglun 390 Mengzhe 390 Menus Beijing and the North 83 Central China 187 South China 289 Southwest China 353 Meridian Gate (Forbidden City) 92 Meru Nyingba (Lhasa) 535 Meteorite Shower Museum (Jilin) 453 Mi Fu 253 Miao people 346, 348–9, 408 festivals and crafts 412–13, 415 Guizhou and Guangxi 403 maps 412, 415 villages 414–15 Miao Rebellion 415 Miaoying Temple White Dagoba (Beijing) 105 Mid-Autumn Festival 52, 339 Military Museum of the Chinese People’s Republic (Beijing) 105 Millennium City (Kaifeng) 157 Min Jiang 374, 375 Min people 291
635
Ming dynasty 58, 66–7 Great Wall of China 67, 112–13 literature 34, 35 Ming Tombs (Beijing) 39, 110–11 Nanjing 183 porcelain 260, 261 Xiao Ling Tomb (Nanjing) 236 Ming Palace Ruins (Nanjing) 232 Ming Shan 358 Ming Xiao Ling Museum (Nanjing) 234 Mingdi emperor 58 Mingjiao Si (Hefei) 239 Mingsha Shan 17, 498 Mini Three Gorges 15, 359 Minority peoples 24–5, 30–31 food and drink 567 River Border 461 see also individual peoples Mirror Pools 346 Mishi Xiang (Lijiang) 397 Mission Hills 592, 595 Mo Yan 35 Mobile phones 610 MOCA Shanghai 194, 195 Mochou Lake (Nanjing) 233 Mogao Caves 17, 467, 499, 501 Mohammed Kashgari, tomb of 515 Mohammed, Prophet 227 Mohe 460 Monasteries 10,000 Buddhas Monastery (Hong Kong) 326 accommodation in 555 Dabei Monastery (Tianjin) 135 Drepung Monastery (Lhasa) 540 Ganden Monastery (Lhasa) 524, 531, 541, 542–3 Gomar Monastery 502 Kongtong Shan 490 Labrang Monastery 16, 483, 486, 487, 531 Meru Nyingba (Lhasa) 535 Nechung Monastery (Lhasa) 540–41 Pelkor Chode Monastery (Gyantse) 547 Po Lin Monastery (Lantau Island) 330–31 Rongphu Monastery 550 Sakya Monastery 524, 525, 550 Samye Monastery 524, 544–5 Sera Monastery (Lhasa) 525, 541 Shibao Zhai 358 Ta’er Si 504–5 Tashilunpo Monastery (Shigatse) 548–9 Tibetan Buddhism 525, 526 Tsurphu Monastery 546 Wudang Zhao 476 Wutan Monastery 502
636
GENERAL INDEX
Money 608–9 currency exchange 608 duty-free allowances 599 security 604 Mongkok Computer Centre (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Mongol empire 65, 66 Mongol Global Tours 593, 595 Mongolia see Inner Mongolia Monkey Island 311 Monument to the People’s Heroes (Beijing), Street-byStreet map 89 Monument to the Red Army Martyrs (Zunyi) 416 Mor Pagoda (Ha Noi) 515 Morrison, Robert 332 Moscow 441 Mosques 511 Altyn Mosque (Yarkand) 519 Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) 104 etiquette 602 Great Mosque (Hohhot) 474 Great Mosque (Kuqa) 10, 513 Great Mosque (Xi’an) 16, 169 Great Mosque (Xining) 502 Huaisheng Mosque (Guangzhou) 305 Id Kah Mosque (Kashgar) 17, 514 Imin Ta (Turpan) 508 Nanguan Mosque (Linxia) 488 Nanguan Mosque (Yinchuan) 479 Qingjing Mosque (Quanzhou) 297 Xianhe Mosque (Yangzhou) 227 Mosquitos 607 Motel 168 557 Motorcycle rickshaws 621 Motorcycle taxis 621 Mountaineering 594, 595 Mountains Cangyan Shan 136 Changbai Shan 454–5 Emei Shan 355, 368–9 Fenghuang Shan 447 Flaming Mountains (Turpan) 509 Helan Shan 480 Heng Shan 137, 267 Hua Shan 167, 177 Huang Shan 209, 242–3 Jinggang Shan 245, 263 Jiuhua Shan 209, 240 Karakoram Highway 518 Karakoram Mountains 507 landscape and wildlife 26 Lao Shan 153 Long March 262–3 Lu Shan 258–9 Maiji Shan 484–5 Ming Shan 358 Pamir Mountains 495, 507 The Peak (Hong Kong) 318–19
Mountains (cont.) Putuo Shan 254–5 Qilian Shan 494 Qixia Shan 246 Southwest China 350 Tai Shan 78, 79, 147, 150–51 Tian Shan 507 Tiantai Shan 253 Wudang Shan 265, 278 Wulingyuan 270–71 Wutai Shan 127, 140–42 Wuyi Shan 291, 294–5, 298 Wuzhi Shan 310 Yandang Shan 245, 253 Yangshuo 424, 425 Yulong Xue Shan 398 Zhuque Shan 453 Moxi Xiang 377 Mu Fu (Lijiang) 398 Mudan river 458 Mudanjiang 458 Mu’en Tang (Shanghai) 194 Mui Wo 331 Mukden see Shenyang Murphy, Henry 235 Murray House (Stanley) 329 Museums and galleries admission charges 600 Ancient Observatory (Beijing) 100–101 Art Museum (Guangzhou) 307 Beijing Natural History Museum 101 Ceramic History Exposition (Jingdezhen) 261 China House Museum (Tianjin) 135 China National Museum (Beijing) 89 Chinese Medicine Museum (Hangzhou) 246 Chongqing Museum (Chongqing) 356 City Museum (Kunming) 381 Dali Museum (Dali) 392 Dinosaur Museum (Zigong) 361 Du Fu’s Thatched Cottage (Chengdu) 364 Dunhuang County Museum (Dunhuang) 498 18 September Museum (Shenyang) 444 Forest of Stelae Museum (Xi’an) 168 Former Residence of Zhou Enlai (Shanghai) 200 Foshan Folk Art Studio (Foshan) 308 Furniture Museum (Pingyao) 144 Gansu Provincial Museum (Lanzhou) 16, 489 Great Wall Museum (Dandong) 447 Great Wall Museum (Jiayuguan) 494
Museums and galleries (cont.) Great Wall Museum (Shanhaiguan) 16, 134 Hanlingyuan Museum (Yangzhou) 226 Hebei Provincial Museum (Shijiazhuang) 136 Henan Provincial Museum (Zhengzhou) 158 Heritage Museum (Hong Kong) 326 Hetian Regional Museum (Khotan) 519 Hong Kong Museum of Art 322 Hong Kong Museum of History 322–3 Hong Kong Science Museum 322 Hubei Provincial Museum (Wuhan) 272 Hunan Provincial Museum (Changsha) 266 Inner Mongolia Museum (Hohhot) 474 Jewish Refugee Museum (Shanghai) 204 Jiazhou Huayuan (Le Shan) 370 Long March Museum (Zunyi) 416 Lu Xun’s Former Residence (Shanghai) 204 Luoyang City Museum (Luoyang) 158 Macau Museum (Macau) 13, 332 Mao Zedong Memorial Museum (Shao Shan) 266 Mao’s Family House (Shao Shan) 266 Maritime Museum (Macau) 334 Meiyuan Xincun (Nanjing) 232 Memorial Hall to the Martyrs of the Revolution (Nanchang) 256 Meteorite Shower Museum (Jilin) 453 Military Museum of the Chinese People’s Republic (Beijing) 105 Ming Xiao Ling (Nanjing) 234 Minorities Museum (Kaili) 414 MOCA Shanghai 194, 195 Municipal Museum (Guangzhou) 307 Museum of the 1895 SinoJapanese War (Weihai) 155 Museum of Dr. Sun Yat Sen (Nanjing) 235, 236 Museum of Naxi Culture (Lijiang) 398 Museum of Opera and Theater (Suzhou) 211 Museum to Commemorate Aiding Korea & Resisting America (Dandong) 447 Museum of Yin Ruins (Anyang) 158 Nanjing Museum (Nanjing) 232
GENERAL INDEX
Museums and galleries (cont.) National Art Museum of China (Beijing) 100 Nationality Museum (Wuzhi Shan City) 310 Ningxia Provincial Museum (Yinchuan) 479 Overseas Chinese Museum (Xiamen) 292 Peasant Movement Institute (Guangzhou) 304 Porcelain Museum (Jingdezhen) 261 Pottery Exhibition Hall (Yixing) 224 Provincial Museum (Fuzhou) 298 Provincial Museum (Guiyang) 404 Provincial Museum (Harbin) 456 Provincial Museum (Hefei) 239 Provincial Museum (Kunming) 380 Provincial Museum (Nanchang) 257 Provincial Museum (Nanning) 429 Provincial Museum (Wuwei) 494 Qingdao Museum 153 Qingyun Pu (Nanchang) 257 Quanzhou Maritime Museum 297 Red Gate Gallery (Beijing) 101 Revolutionary Museum (Nanchang) 256 Rishenchang (Pingyao) 144 Sanxingdui Museum 11, 15, 366 Shaanxi History Museum (Xi’an) 16, 167, 172–3 Shandong Provincial Museum (Jinan) 148 Shanghai Art Museum 194, 195 Shanghai History Museum 195 Shanghai Museum 12–13, 196– 7, 206, 207 Shanxi Provincial Museum (Taiyuan) 143 Sichuan Museum (Chengdu) 365 Site of the First National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party (Shanghai) 200 Song Qingling’s Former Residence (Shanghai) 204 Stilwell Museum (Chongqing) 357 Sun Yat-sen Memorial Residence (Shanghai) 13, 200 Sun Yat-sen’s Residence (Cuiheng) 308 Suzhou Museum (Suzhou) 210 Suzhou Silk Museum (Suzhou) 210
Museums and galleries (cont.) Taiping Heavenly Kingdom History Museum (Nanjing) 228 Tea Museum (Hangzhou) 246 Tianjixiang Museum (Pingyao) 145 Tibet Museum (Lhasa) 533 Tujia Museum (Furongzhen) 267 Turpan Museum (Turpan) 508 Wang Shi Xiao Yuan (Yangzhou) 227 Wen Miao (Wuwei) 494 Wenya Museum (Jinzhou) 446 Wuxi Museum (Wuxi) 222 Xianyang City Museum (Xianyang) 176 Xinjiang Provincial Museum (Ürümqi) 17, 510 Yan’an Revolutionary Museum (Yan’an) 177 Yangzhou Museum (Yangzhou) 226 Yantai Museum (Yantai) 154 Yong Ling Museum (Chengdu) 364 Zhenjiang Museum (Zhenjiang) 224 Zigong Salt Museum (Zigong) 361 Music 46 Beijing Opera 80–81, 119, 590 discos and karaoke 591 festivals 53 Hong Kong 338, 339 rock and pop music 591 Shanghai 206, 207 Sichuan opera 366 traditional music 591 Muslims and Islam 511 Aba Khoja Mausoleum (Kashgar) 516–17 Arab traders 284 Cow Street Mosque (Beijing) 104 food and drink 83 Garden Tomb of Puhaddin (Yangzhou) 227 Great Mosque (Xi’an) 169 Huaisheng Mosque (Guangzhou) 305 Islamic Cemetery (Guangzhou) 306–7 Muslim Uprising (1856) 348 in Xinjiang 507 see also Mosques Mutianyu 114 Muzong emperor 58 Myanmar 379, 390–91, 395 Myths and Mountains 593, 595
N Na-Li (Beijing) 118, 119 Nadam Fair 52 Nakchu Horse Race Festival 52 Namtso Lake 523, 546–7
637
Nan Putuo Si (Xiamen) 292 Nan Yue Palace Gardens (Guangzhou) 304 Nan Yue Tomb (Guangzhou) 306 Nanchan Si (Wutai Shan) 142 Nanchang 245, 256–7 hotels 560 map 257 restaurants 578 Nanchang Uprising (1927) 183 Nanguan Mosque (Linxia) 488 Nanguan Mosque (Yinchuan) 479 Nanhua Si (Shaoguan) 309 Nanjing 183, 209, 228–37 food and drink 186 hotels 560 map 229 Purple Mountain 234–6 restaurants 577 Treaty of 69, 189 Visitors’ Checklist 229 Zhonghua Gate 230–31 Nanjing Massacre (1937) 233 Memorial (Purple Mountain) 237 Nanjing Museum (Nanjing) 232 Nanjing Road (Shanghai) 12, 194, 203 Nanjing Yangzi River Bridge (Nanjing) 233 Nanking see Nanjing Nanning 429 hotels 562 Nanping 240 Nanshan Si (Wutai Shan) 142 Nanwu Chaoxi Si (Huanglong Xi) 374 Nanyan Gong (Wudang Shan) 278 Nanyue 267 Nanyue Damiao (Heng Shan) 267 Nanzhao Kingdom 348, 380, 394 Nathan Road (Hong Kong) 322, 336 National Art Museum of China (Beijing) 100 National Day 53 National Theater (Beijing) 47, 119 Nationalist Party see Kuomintang (KMT) Nationality Museum (Wuzhi Shan City) 310 Nature preserves Changbai Shan Reserve 443, 454–5 Chishui 416 Everest Base Camp 550 Hanas Lake Nature Reserve 512 Jianfeng Ling Nature Reserve 311 Longrui Nature Preserve 430 Mengda Nature Reserve 503 Shennongjia Forest reserve 183, 265, 278 Wanglang Nature Reserve 355, 375
638
GENERAL INDEX
Nature preserves (cont.) Wulingyuan Nature Preserve 270–71 Zhalong Nature Reserve 409, 443, 458 Naxi people 30, 349, 399 Dongba Research Institute (Lijiang) 398 Nechung Monastery (Lhasa) 540–41 Nengren Si (Jiujiang) 258 Neolithic period 57, 78 Nepal border 550, 551 Nestorian Christianity 168 New Territories 327 New Year Chinese 48, 53 Tibetan 50 Western 53 Newspapers 611 Night Market (Beijing) 100 Night Market (Shigatse) 548 Nightclubs Beijing 119 Hong Kong 338, 339 Shanghai 207 Nine Dragon Screen (Beijing) 96 Nine Horse Fresco Hill 423 Ningbo 245, 252 Ningxia province 466, 467, 473 hotels 563 map 473 restaurants 584 Ningxia Provincial Museum (Yinchuan) 479 Ningzong emperor 59 Ninth Dragon Screen (Forbidden City) 95 Nixon, Richard 73, 292 No Name Bar (Beijing) 119 Nomads 528–9 Mongols of the Steppe 468–9 Tibet 525 Noonday Gun (Hong Kong) 317 Norbulingka (Lhasa) 533 North Korea 443, 446–7 North Pagoda (Shenyang) 444 North Tomb (Shenyang) 445 Northeast China 433–61 Changbai Shan 454–5 forests 28 fossils 459 hotels 562–3 Liaoning, Jilin and Heilongjiang 443–61 Manchu dynasty 438–9 maps 434–5 peoples 31 Portrait of Northeast China 436–7 restaurants 583–4 River Border minorities 461 Trans Siberian Express 440–41 see also Beijing and the North Northern Dynasties 59, 61 Northern Song dynasty 59, 65
Northern Wei dynasty 59, 61, 138 Northwest Airlines 613 Northwest Yunnan Ecotourism Association 595 Novels 35 Novotel 557 Nowrojee, Dorabjee 321 Nu, U 388 No. 1 Department Store (Shanghai) 206, 207 Nunneries Ani Tsankhung Nunnery (Lhasa) 533 Fulu Buddhist Nunnery (Sanjiang) 426 Nuorilang Falls 376 Nuoyu 400 Nurhachi 68, 438, 444 tomb of 445
O Observatories Ancient Observatory (Beijing) 100–101 Purple Mountain Observatory (Nanjing) 234, 236 Ocean Park (Hong Kong) 328–9, 338, 339 Old Protestant Cemetery (Macau) 332 Old Racecourse (Shanghai) 195, 203 Old Summer Palace see Yuanming Yuan Old Town (Kashgar) 514 Olympic Games 592 108 Dagobas (Ningxia) 481 Opal (Kashgar) 515 Opening hours 600 banks 608 restaurants 566 shops 586 Opera Beijing Opera 80–81, 119, 590 festivals 52 model operas 71 Museum of Opera and Theater (Suzhou) 211 Sichuan opera 366 Opium Wars 69, 284, 428 Orange Pavilion (Suzhou) 213 Orchid Garden (Guangzhou) 306–7 Oriental Pearl TV Tower (Shanghai) 195 Oroqen people 31, 461 Otani, Count 499 Ou Yuan (Suzhou) 210 Our Lady of China (Shanghai) 205 Our Lady of Lourdes (Shamian Island) 307 Overseas Chinese Museum (Xiamen) 292 Overseas Chinese Tropical Farm (Xinglong) 310
P Pacific Hotel (Shanghai) 194 Pacific Place (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Padmasambhava 524 Page One (Beijing) 118, 119 Pagodas 41, 171 Bai Ta (Hohhot) 475 Baisikou Shuang Ta 480 Beisi Ta (Suzhou) 210 Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) 167, 170, 491 Fan Pagoda (Kaifeng) 157 Gongtang Pagoda 487 Great Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) 16, 167, 170, 491 Haibao Ta (Yinchuan) 479 Iron Pagoda (Kaifeng) 156 Ligong Pagoda (Hangzhou) 247 Linggu Pagoda (Nanjing) 235, 236 North Pagoda (Shenyang) 444 Qianxun Ta (Dali) 379 Qiji Futu Pagoda (Harbin) 457 Riming Shuang Ta (Guilin) 420 Ruiguang Pagoda (Suzhou) 219 San Ta (Dali) 392–3 Shengjin Ta Pagoda (Nanchang) 257 Shuang Ta (Suzhou) 216 Si Men Pagoda (Jinan) 148 Six Harmonies Pagoda (Hangzhou) 247 Small Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) 167, 170 Songyang Si Pagoda (Songshan) 164 Wat Ben Pagoda 388 Wenfeng Pagoda (Anyang) 158 Wu Ta Si (Hohhot) 475 Xi Si Ta (Kunming) 381 Yan’an Bao Pagoda (Yan’an) 177 Yingxian Pagoda 171 Zhe Ta (Wuhu) 339 Paintballing 594 Paintings see Arts and crafts Pak Tai Temple (Cheung Chau Island) 330 Pak Tam Chung Visitor Centre (Sai Kung Town) 327 Pakistan 507, 518 Palace Hotel (Shanghai) 193 Palace Museum (Forbidden City) 92–5 Palaces Ganden Palace (Lhasa) 540 Imperial Palace (Shenyang) 438, 444 Jinjiang Prince’s Palace (Guilin) 421 Ming Palace Ruins (Nanjing) 232 Palace of Abstinence (Forbidden City) 95 Palace of Earthly Tranquillity (Forbidden City) 94
GENERAL INDEX
Palaces (cont.) Palace of Eternal Harmony (Forbidden City) 94–5 Palace of Heavenly Purity (Forbidden City) 94 Palace of Peaceful Longevity (Forbidden City) 95 Potala Palace 538–9 Puppet Emperor’s Palace (Changchun) 437, 452 Summer Palace (Beijing) 12, 106–8 Summer Palace (Lhasa) 533 Pamir Mountains 467, 507 The “Great Game” 495 Karakoram Highway 518 Pan Men Scenic Area (Suzhou) 218–19 Panchen Lamas 11th Panchen Lama 548 Chengde 129 Tashilunpo Monastery (Shigatse) 548, 549 Pandas 367 Panda Breeding Center 11, 15, 366 Wanglang Nature Reserve 375 Panjiayuan Market (Beijing) 118, 119 Panlong 430 Park Hotel (Shanghai) 194 Park Hyatt 557 Parks and gardens (general) admission charges 600 playing games in 590 traditional Chinese gardens 184–5 Parks and gardens (individual) Bailuzhou Park (Nanjing) 228 Baita Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou) 488 Bayi Park (Nanchang) 256 Beihai Park (Beijing) 96 Beijing Botanical Gardens 109 Botanic Gardens (Menglun) 390 Botanical Gardens (Nanjing) 236 Canglang Ting (Suzhou) 216–17 Cui Hu Gongyuan (Kunming) 380 Danxia Shan 309 Di Tan Park (Beijing) 99 Donghai Park (Dalian) 450 Fuxing Park (Shanghai) 13, 200 Ge Yuan (Yangzhou) 226 Haigeng Park (Lake Dian) 383 He Yuan (Yangzhou) 227 Heilong Tan Gongyuan (Lijiang) 398 Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens 13, 317 Hongshan Park (Ürümqi) 510 Huagang Garden (Hangzhou) 248 Huanglong Dong Park (Hangzhou) 246
Parks and gardens (individual) (cont.) Huangpu Park (Shanghai) 201 Humble Administrator’s Garden (Suzhou) 212–13 Imperial Gardens (Forbidden City) 94 Jiangxin Park (Wenzhou) 253 Jin Shan Park (Zhenjiang) 224 Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 12, 96 Jinhua Cha Gardens 429 Lan Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou) 489 Lianfengshan Park (Beidaihe) 134 Liu Yuan (Suzhou) 217 Longting Park (Kaifeng) 157 Lu Xun Park (Shanghai) 204 Manting Park (Jinghong) 388 Mei Yuan (Taihu) 222 Nan Yue Palace Gardens (Guangzhou) 304 Norbulingka (Lhasa) 533 Old Racecourse (Shanghai) 195, 203 Orchid Garden (Guangzhou) 306–7 Ou Yuan (Suzhou) 210 Pan Men Scenic Area (Suzhou) 218–19 People’s Park (Shanghai) 12, 194 Qianling Shan Park (Guiyang) 405 Qixing Gongyuan (Guilin) 420 Renmin Park (Chengdu) 365 Renmin Park (Nanning) 429 Shizi Lin (Suzhou) 210 Shou Xi Hu (Yangzhou) 226 Shuzhuang Garden (Gulangyu Island) 293 Stalin Park (Harbin) 456 Summer Palace (Beijing) 106–8 Sun Island Park (Harbin) 456 Tiger Hill (Suzhou) 217 Tropical Botanical Gardens (Xishuangbanna) 350 Tropical Flower and Plant Garden (Jinghong) 388 Tuisi Yuan (Tongli) 222 Victoria Park (Hong Kong) 317 Victoria Peak Garden (Hong Kong) 318 Wangshi Yuan (Suzhou) 216 Wanshi Botanical Garden (Xiamen) 292 Wuquan Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou) 489 Xi Yuan (Suzhou) 217 Xiang Shan Park (Beijing) 109 Xihui Park (Wuxi) 222 Xinglong Tropical Botanical Gardens 310 Xu Yuan (Nanjing) 229 Xuanwu Lake (Nanjing) 232 Yantai Shan Park (Yantai) 154 Yi Yuan (Suzhou) 216
639
Parks and gardens (individual) (cont.) Yu Gardens and Bazaar (Shanghai) 12, 198–9 Yuanming Yuan (Garden of Perfect Brightness, Beijing) 109, 439 Yuexiu Park (Guangzhou) 307 Yuhuangding Park (Yantai) 154 Yuhuatai (Nanjing) 237 Zhaolin Park (Harbin) 456 Parkway Green Fangcaodi (Beijing) 118, 119 Passports 598–9 security 604 Pavilion of a Thousand Autumns (Forbidden City) 94 Peace Hotel (Shanghai) 193 The Peak (Hong Kong) 13, 318–19 Peak Tower (Hong Kong) 319 Peak Tram (Hong Kong) 319 Pearl river 284, 301 Mai Po Marshes 327 Pearl-Beach Falls, Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 Peasant Movement Institute (Guangzhou) 304 Pei, I.M. 210, 316 Peking Man site 117 Pelkor Chode Monastery (Gyantse) 547 Pelliot, Paul 499, 513 Peng Dehui 259 Penglai Pavilion 155 Penholder Peak, Li river cruise 423 Peninsula Hotels 557 Penjing 185 Peoples of China 30–31 see also Ethnic minorities People’s Hall (Lu Shan) 259 People’s Liberation Army (PLA), Cultural Revolution 70, 71 People’s Park and Square (Shanghai) 12, 194 Period of Disunity 59 Permits 599 Personal security 604–5 Phagpa 550 Pharmacies 605 Philosophy 36–7 qi 38–9 Photography 601 etiquette 602 Phrase book 656–60 Pileguo 394 Ping An 426 Pingdi emperor 58 Pingliang 490 Pingxiang 430–31 Pingyao 41, 127, 144–5 restaurants 574 Pinyin script 33, 600 Plants 26–9 bamboo 417 ginseng 454
640
GENERAL INDEX
Plants (cont.) plant hunters 351 Southwest China 350–51 see also Parks and gardens Plaza 66 (Shanghai) 194 Plum Blossom Hill (Purple Mountain) 236 Plum Monastery (Zhaoqing) 308 Po Lin Monastery (Lantau Island) 330–31 “Pockmarked Huang” 200, 203 Poetry, Tang 34 Pok Fu Lam Reservoir (Hong Kong) 318 Police 604, 605 Pollution 24, 606 Polo, Marco 66, 249, 471 and China’s Jews 157 in Fuzhou 298 in Hangzhou 246 Hualin Si (Guangzhou) 304 Marco Polo Bridge 116 Yangzi river 182 Pop music 591 Porcelain see Ceramics Port Arthur see Lushun Portugal food and drink in Macau 335 and Macau 284, 313, 332 Postal services 610 Poste restante 610–11 Potala Palace (Lhasa) 525, 538–9 Pottery see Ceramics Pottery Exhibition Hall (Yixing) 224 Pousada São Tiago (Macau) 334 Poyang, Lake 245 Praia Grande (Macau) 333 Precious Clouds Pavilion (Summer Palace, Beijing) 108 Prescription Cave (Longmen Caves) 161 Prescription drugs 605 Prince Gong’s Mansion (Beijing) 12, 96, 119 Printing 43 Prosperity 48–9 Protestant Church (Qingdao) 152 Provincial Museum (Guiyang) 404 Provincial Museum (Kunming) 380 Provincial Museum (Nanchang) 257 Pu Songling 153 Pu Yi, Emperor 59, 69, 72, 452 abdication 95 Beijing Botanical Gardens 109 and Manchukuo 437, 443, 452 Puppet Emperor’s Palace (Changchun) 437, 452 tomb of 115 Public holidays 53, 556, 600 Public Security Bureau (PSB) 599, 604 Public toilets 605 Pubs Beijing 119 Hong Kong 338, 339
Pudong (Shanghai) 189, 193, 195 Puhaddin, Garden Tomb of Puhaddin (Yangzhou) 227 Puji Si (Putuo Shan) 254 Pule Si (Chengde) 129, 134 Puning Si (Chengde) 40, 129, 130–31 Puntsok Palace 550 Puppet Emperor’s Palace (Changchun) 437, 452 Puppet theater 591 Purple Mountain (Nanjing) 234–6 Pusa Ding (Wutai Shan) 141 Putonghua (Chinese language) 32, 600 Putuo Shan 181, 245, 254–5 Putuozongcheng Miao (Chengde) 128 Puzhao Si (Tai Shan) 150
Q Qantas 613 Qi 38–9 traditional medicine 238 Qi Fo Si (Wutai Shan) 141 Qian Bu Sha (Putuo Shan) 255 Qian Ling (Xi’an) 176 Qian Men (Beijing) 12, 90 Street-by-Street map 88 Qian Men Carpet Company (Beijing) 118, 119 Qiang people 377 Qianling Shan Park (Guiyang) 405 Qianlong emperor 59, 68, 128, 438, 439 Baoguang Si 366 Beijing Opera 80 Chengde 129 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 food customs and etiquette 569 Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 109 Marco Polo Bridge 116 Prince Gong’s Mansion (Beijing) 96 Puning Si (Chengde) 130 Summer Palace (Beijing) 106, 108 and Xiangfei 516 Yangzhou 226 Yuanming Yuan (Beijing) 109, 439 Qianming Si (Guiyang) 404 Qiantang river 248 Qianxun Ta (Dali) 379, 392 Qiao Guifa 145 Qiao Jia Dayuan 145 Qidan people 64 Qigong 38 Qiji Futu Pagoda (Harbin) 457 Qilian Shan 494 Qin dynasty 59, 60 Qin Shi (huangdi) emperor 59, 60, 151, 167 and Confucius 149
Qin Shi (huangdi) emperor (cont.) Great Wall of China 112 Heng Shan 137 Penglai 155 Terracotta Army 60, 79, 167, 174–5 tomb of 175 Qing dynasty 59, 68–9 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 literature 34, 35 Manchu dynasty 438–9 porcelain 261 Summer Palace (Beijing) 106 Taiping Rebellion 228 Qing Ming Festival 51 Qing Teng Shu Wu (Shaoxing) 252 Qingcheng Shan 374 Qingdao 79, 147, 152–3, 592 hotels 559 map 152–3 restaurants 574–5 Qingdao International Beer Festival 52 Qingdao Museum (Qingdao) 153 Qinghai Hu 465, 467, 483, 503 Qinghai province 466, 467, 483 hotels 563 map 483 restaurants 584–5 Qingjing Mosque (Quanzhou) 297 Qingning Palace (Shenyang) 444 Qingping Market (Guangzhou) 304 Qingshan (Baotou) 476 Qingyang 405 Qingyang Gong (Chengdu) 349, 364 Qingyin Ge (Emei Shan) 369 Qingyuan 309 Qingyuan Shan 297 Qinian Dian (Beijing) 103 Qinzong emperor 59, 65 Qiongzhong 310 Qiongzhu Si (Kunming) 382 Qiqiha’er 458, 460 Qixia Shan (Hangzhou) 246 Qixia Si (Nanjing) 237 Qixing Gongyuan (Guilin) 420 Qixing Yan 308 Qu Yuan 51 Quanzhou 291, 297 Quanzhou Maritime Museum 297 Qufu 79, 148–9 Qutang Xia 359
R Rabies 607 Radio 611 Radisson 557 Railways see Trains Ramada 557 Ramoche (Lhasa) 532
GENERAL INDEX
Red (Shanghai) 207 Red Army cult of Mao 268 Long March 72, 262, 377 Nanchang Uprising 183 Zunyi Conference 416 Red Basin 355 Red Gate Gallery (Beijing) 101 Red Guard 70 Red Palace (Lhasa) 538, 539 Red Turbans 66 Reform Movement 69 Rehai 395 Religion 25, 36–7 festivals 50 see also Buddhism; Christianity; Muslims and Islam Renmin Park (Chengdu) 364 Renmin Square (Dalian) 450 Renzong emperor 59 Repulse Bay 329 Resonant Sand Gorge 476 Restaurants 564–85 air conditioning 606 bargaining 603 customs and etiquette 568–9 ethnic food 567 etiquette 602 fast food 567 in hotels 566 opening hours 566 service charges 569 smoking in 603 themed restaurants 567 tipping in 569 vegetarian food 567 Western restaurants 567 see also Food and drink Retreat in the Qingbian Mountain (Wang Meng) 197 Revolutionary Museum (Nanchang) 256 Ricci, Matteo 67 astronomy 100 and China’s Jews 157 South Cathedral (Beijing) 91 Xujiahui Catholic Cathedral (Shanghai) 205 Zhaoqing 308 Rice 286–7 terraces 410–11 Rice wine 571 Richtofen, Baron von 470 Rickshaws, motorcycle 621 Rinpoche, Guru 544, 545 Rishenchang (Pingyao) 144 Ritz Carlton 557 River Border 460 minority peoples 461 River cruises Li river cruise 422–3 Yangzi cruise 358–60 River Promenade (Shanghai) 192 Riyue Shuang Ta (Guilin) 420 Road names 621 Rock, Joseph 351, 396
Rock and pop music 591 Rong Hu (Guilin) 14, 420 Rongphu Monastery 550 Rongshui river 426 Room With a View (Shanghai) 207 Rua de Felicidade (Macau) 334 Rugby 592, 595 Ruifuxiang (Beijing) 91 Ruiguang Pagoda (Suzhou) 219 Ruijin Guesthouse (Shanghai) 200 Ruili 395 Ruinas de São Paulo (Macau) 13, 332 Ruizong emperor 58 Russia The “Great Game” 495, 547 and Harbin 437, 443, 456 Russian Orthodox Church 202, 456 Ruzhen (Jurchen) people 64 Ruzi emperor 58
S Sacred Heart Church (Guangzhou) 304 Safety 604–5 Sai Kung Town and Peninsula Beaches (Hong Kong) 326–7 St. Joseph’s Church (Beijing) 100 St. Mary’s Church (Beijing) 91 St. Michael’s Church (Qingdao) 152 Sakya Monastery 524, 525, 550 Sakya Pandita 550 Sakya Yeshe 541 Salt mining salt in Sichuan 361 Zigong 361 Salween river 379, 531 Sam’s Tailor (Hong Kong) 337 Samye Monastery 524, 544–5 San Ta (Dali) 14, 392–3 Sanche river 407 Sangke 486 Sani people 384 Sanjiang 426–7 Sanqing Si (Western Hills) 383 Sanshan Island (Taihu) 222 Sanxingdui 349 Sanxingdui Museum 11, 15, 366 Sanya 311 restaurants 580 Sanyang Feng 298 SARS (severe acute respiratory syndrome) 606–7 Sassoon, Sir Victor 193 Sayram Lake 512 Schall von Bell, Adam 100, 439 Schistosomiasis 607 Science Museum (Hong Kong) 322 Scripts 32–3 calligraphy 33, 225 Naxi script 399
641
Secluded Pavilion of Firmiana Simplex and Bamboo (Suzhou) 213 Security 604–5 Sera Monastery (Lhasa) 525, 541 Service charges, in hotels 555 Seventeen-arch Bridge (Summer Palace, Beijing) 108 SEVVA (Hong Kong) 338 Sexually transmitted diseases 607 Sha Tin Racecourse (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Shaanxi History Museum (Xi’an) 16, 167, 172–3 Shaanxi province 78, 167–77 hotels 559 map 167 restaurants 575 Shadow plays 591 Shamian Island 304, 306–7 map 306–7 Shan Hu (Guilin) 14, 420 Shandong province 78, 79, 147 food and drink 82–3 hotels 559 map 147 restaurants 574–5 Shandong Provincial Museum (Jinan) 148 Shang Cai Dong (Wutai Shan) 141 Shang City Walls (Zhengzhou) 158 Shang dynasty 57, 58, 78 oracle bones 32, 158 Shangdi emperor 58 Shangfeng Si (Heng Shan) 267 Shanghai 22, 182–3, 189–207 air travel 613, 615 banks 608 Bund 12, 182, 189, 192–3, 201, 203 climate 55 entertainment 206–7 food and drink 186 hospitals 605 hotels 559–60 Huangpu river 201 map 190–91 Old Shanghai 203 Public Security Bureau (PSB) 599 restaurants 575–7 Shanghai Museum 12–13, 196–7 shopping 206–7 skiing 593 subway 620 Two Days in Shanghai 10, 12–13 Yu Gardens and Bazaar 12, 198–9 Shanghai Art Museum 194, 195 Shanghai Center 194, 206, 207 Shanghai Circus World 206, 207 Shanghai Dramatic Arts Center 206, 207
642
GENERAL INDEX
Shanghai Exhibition Center 202 Shanghai Film Art Center 207 Shanghai Grand Theater 194, 206, 207 Shanghai History Museum 195 Shanghai International Film Festival 51 Shanghai Museum 12–13, 196–7, 206, 207 Shanghai Music Conservatory Auditorium 206, 207 Shanghai No. 1 Department Store 194 Shanghai Oriental Art Center 206, 207 Shanghai Pearl City (Shanghai) 206, 207 Shanghai Pudong Development Bank 192 Shanghai Tang (Hong Kong) 337 Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition 194 Shanghai World Financial Center 195 Shangqing Gong (Qingcheng Shan) 374 Shangri-La Hotels 557 Shangyong 390 Shanhaiguan 127, 134 Shanhua Si (Datong) 137 Shanshan Gan Guild Hall (Kaifeng) 156 Shantou 302 Shanxi province 78, 79, 127 hotels 558–9 map 127 restaurants 573–4 Shanxi Provincial Museum (Taiyuan) 143 Shao Shan 265, 266, 268 Shaoguan 309 Shaolin International Martial Arts Festival 52 Shaolin Temple 147, 164, 165, 594 Shaoxing 245, 252 restaurants 578 Shaping 394 Shapotou 465, 480 Shaw, George Bernard 204 Shaxi 394–5 She Shan (Shanghai) 205 Sheli Ta (Baoguang Si) 366 Shen Nong emperor 299 Shengjin Ta Pagoda (Nanchang) 257 Shenhai Well (Zigong) 361 Shennong Xi 15, 359, 360 Shennongjia 183, 265, 278 Shenyang 436, 438, 443, 444–5 hotels 563 map 445 restaurant 584 Shenzhen 301, 302 hotels 561 restaurants 580
Shenzong emperor 59 Sher Ali 495 Sheraton 557 Sheung Wan’s Markets (Hong Kong) 13, 321 Shexian 209, 240 Shi De 217 Shi Lin (Stone Forest) 379, 384–5, 418 Shi Tao 226 Shiba Pan (Tai Shan) 150 Shibao Zhai 358, 360 Shibing 415 Shidebala 58 Shidong 414 Shidu 117 Shigatse 548–9 hotels 563 map 549 restaurants 585 Shijiazhuang 136 Shin Kong Place (Beijing) 118, 119 Ship Lifting Tower (Three Gorges Dam) 275 Shipaotai Gongyuan (Shantou) 302 Shishao 406 Shizhang Dong 416 Shizi Lin (Suzhou) 180, 210 Shizi Yan 309 Shizong emperor 64 Shopping 586–9 antiques shops 118, 206, 336, 587 bargaining 586, 603 Beijing 118–19 department stores and boutiques 118, 336, 587 Hong Kong and Macau 336–7 how to pay 586 opening hours 586 Shanghai 206–7 shopping malls 587 What to Buy in China 588–9 see also Markets Shoton (Yoghurt festival) 52 Shou Ning Si (Wutai Shan) 141 Shou Xi Hu (Yangzhou) 226 Shu kingdom 59, 349 Shuang Ta (Suzhou) 216 Shuanglin Si 145 Shuijing Xiang Market (Xining) 502 Shuilian Dong (Huangguoshu Falls) 407 Shuilian Dong (Wuyi Shan) 298 Shundi emperor 58 Shunzhi emperor 59 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Imperial Palace (Shenyang) 444 Shunzong emperor 58 Shuzheng Zhai, Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 Shuzhuang Garden (Gulangyu Island) 293
Si Men Pagoda (Jinan) 148 Siberia 460, 464, 473 Sichuan earthquake 367, 374, 375 Sichuan Museum (Chengdu) 365 Sichuan opera 366 Sichuan province 349, 355–77 carvings of Dazu 362–3 Dafo (Le Shan) 11, 370–73 Emei Shan 368–9 food and drink 352 giant pandas 367 hotels 562 map 355 restaurants 581–2 salt mines 361 A Week in Sichuan and Chongqing 11, 15 Yangzi cruise 358–60 Sidong Gou 416 Sifang Jie (Lijiang) 397 Silk 214–15 Hetian Silk Factory (Khotan) 519 Silk Embroidery Research Institute (Suzhou) 216 Suzhou Silk Museum (Suzhou) 210 What to Buy in China 589 Silk Roads 60, 66, 348, 470–71 Baoshan 394 Burma Road 383 Dunhuang 498 Hexi Corridor 483 Karakoram Highway 518 Kashgar 514 Khotan 519 Race for the Silk Road Oases 499 Silk Road 519 The Spread of Buddhism 491 Tengchong 395 Turpan 508 Two Weeks on the Silk Road 10, 16–17 Xi’an 168 Xinjiang 507 Yarkand 519 Yengisar 518 see also Inner Mongolia and the Silk Roads Sima Qian 34 Simatai 114 Simplified script 33 Sino-Japanese War (1894-5) 69, 154 Lushun (Port Arthur) 451 Museum of the 1895 SinoJapanese War (Weihai) 155 Site of the First National Congress of the Chinese Communist Party (Shanghai) 200 Six Harmonies Pagoda (Hangzhou) 247 Skiing 593 Sleeping Buddha Temple (Beijing) 109
GENERAL INDEX
Small Wild Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) 167, 170 Smoking 603 Soccer 592, 595 Soft drinks 570 Sogo (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Sok Kwu Wan 330 Song dynasty 59, 64, 65 Central China 183 Gongyi 164 porcelain 261 Song Jiang 205 Song Shan 147 Songhua Lake 453 Songhua river 453 Songpan 355, 375 Songshan 164 Songtsen Gampo Jokhang Temple (Lhasa) 536–7 King 524 Potala Palace (Lhasa) 538 Ramoche (Lhasa) 532 Songyang Academy (Songshan) 164 Songyang Si Pagoda (Songshan) 164 Soong Ailing 204 Soong Meiling 204, 259, 310 Soong Qingling 303 Soong Qingling’s Former Residence (Shanghai) 204 Sun Yat Sen Memorial Residence (Shanghai) 200 Wenchang 310 Soong, T.V. 204 South Cathedral (Beijing) 91 South China 281–343 food and drink 288–9 Fujian 291–9 Guangdong and Hainan 301– 11 Hong Kong and Macau 313–43 hotels 561 map 282–3 peoples 31 Portrait of the South 284–5 restaurants 579–81 rice 286–7 South China Sea 301 South Gate (Yinchuan) 479 South Lake Island (Summer Palace, Beijing) 108 Southeast Corner Watchtower (Beijing) 101 Southern Dynasties 59, 61 Southern Song dynasty 59, 65 Hangzhou 246 Southwest China 345–431 bamboo 417 Chinese cranes 409 flora of Southwest China 350– 51 food and drink 352–3 Guizhou and Guangxi 403–31 hotels 562 karst 418–19
Southwest China (cont.) map 346–7 peoples 30 Portrait of Southwest China 348–9 restaurants 581–3 Sichuan and Chongqing 355– 77 Yunnan 379–401 Souvenirs 588–9 Special Economic Zones 73 Specialist holidays 592–5 Spectator sports 590, 592 Spelunking 595 Splendid China (Shenzhen) 302 Sports 592–5 Hong Kong 338, 339 spectator sports 590, 592 Spring in China 50–51 Spring City 592, 595 Spring Festival (Chin Jie) 48, 50 Stalin, Joseph 105 Stalin Park (Harbin) 456 Stanley 329 markets 336, 337 Star Ferry (Hong Kong) 13, 321 Star House (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Stein, Sir Aurel 499, 500 Steppes 475 grassland 28 Mongols of the Steppe 468–9 Steppes of China, landscape 27 Steppes Travel 593, 595 Stilwell, General Burma Road 383 Stilwell Museum (Chongqing) 357 Stomach upsets 606 Stone Forest (Shi Lin) 10, 14, 379, 384–5, 418 Stone Sutra Valley (Tai Shan) 151 Street food 566 Studio City (Shanghai) 207 Stupa Forest Temple 116 Stupas 171 Su Causeway (Hangzhou) 249 Su Dongpo 564 Forest of Stelae Museum (Xi’an) 168 Liu Rong Si (Guangzhou) 305 Su Causeway (Hangzhou) 249 Wugong Si (Haikou) 310 Yizhou Pavilion (Changzhou) 224 Su Zimei 216 Subashi Gucheng 513 Subways Beijing 620 Shanghai 620 Sui (court official) 274 Sui dynasty 59, 61, 167 Sui Wen Di emperor 223 Sui Yandi emperor 223 Suleiman, Prince 508 Summer in China 51–2 weather 54, 606
643
Summer Palace (Beijing) 12, 78, 106–8 Visitors’ Checklist 107 Summer Palace (Lhasa) 533 Sun Asia Ocean World (Dalian) 450–51 Sun Island Park (Harbin) 456 Sun protection 606 Sun Yat-sen 69, 204, 303, 310 at Guilin 421 birthplace 308 Hong Kong 320 Kuomintang 72 Mausoleum (Nanjing) 234, 235, 236 Museum of Dr. Sun Yat-sen (Nanjing) 235, 236 Nanjing 228, 229 Purple Mountain (Nanjing) 236 Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall (Guangzhou) 307 Sun Yat-sen Memorial Residence (Shanghai) 13, 200 Wuhan 272 Xiang Shan Park (Beijing) 109 Sunday Market (Kashgar) 514 Sunlight Rock (Gulangyu Island) 293 Sunni Muslims 511 Suyu Kou 480 Suzhe cuisine 187 Suzhou 183, 209, 210–21 air travel 615 hotels 560 Humble Administrator’s Garden 212–13 map 211 Pan Men Scenic Area (Suzhou) 218–19 Public Security Bureau (PSB) 599 restaurants 577 Visitors’ Checklist 211 Suzhou Museum (Suzhou) 210 Suzhou Silk Museum 210 Suzong emperor 58 Swatow see Chaozhou; Shantou Swimming 592 Symbolism dragons 94 Eight Auspicious Symbols 546 food 565
T Tableware 569 Ta’er Si 466, 467, 483, 504–5 Tai ji quan (Tai Chi) 279 Tai Long Wan 326, 327 Tai Mo Shan 327 Tai O 330, 331 Tai Shan 78, 79, 99, 147, 150–51 map 150–51 Tai Shan Miao (Wudang Shan) 278 Tai’an, Tai Shan 150–51
644
GENERAL INDEX
Tai’an Temple (Qingcheng Shan) 374 Taichang emperor 58, 67 Taihu 183, 222 Taihua Si (Western Hills) 383 Taihuai 140 Taijiang 414 Taikoo Li (Beijing) 12, 118, 119 Taiping Rebellion (1851-64) 69, 265, 348, 428 Jintian 429 Suzhou Museum 210 Taiping Heavenly Kingdom History Museum (Nanjing) 228 Taiqing Temple (Lao Shan) 153 Taiwan, Nationalist government established in 72–3 Taiyuan 143 hotels 558 restaurants 574 Taizong emperor 58, 59, 63 Fayuan Temple (Beijing) 104 tomb 176 Taizu emperor 59 Tajiks 511 Taklamakan Desert 467, 498, 507, 519 Tan Hao 138 Tan Kah Kee 292 Tang An 427 Tang Bo 256 Tang dynasty 58, 62–4, 167 Buddhism 491 poetry 34 porcelain 261 Tang Wenzong emperor 168 Tangyue 240 Tanzhe Temple 116 Tao Qian 37 Tara Chapel (Lhasa) 540 Tashi Dor 547 Tashilunpo Monastery (Shigatse) 548–9 Tashkurgan 518 Tatars 511 Taxes, air travel 613 Taxis airport 613, 615 in cities 621 Tayuan Si (Wutai Shan) 140 Tea 285, 299 Guiping 428–9 Longjing Village (Hangzhou) 246 Tea Museum (Hangzhou) 246 What to Drink in China 570 Teachers’ Day 52 Teahouses, Beijing 119 Telephones 610 dialling codes 611 Television 611 Temple Street Market (Hong Kong) 13, 323, 336, 337 Temples (general) admission charges 600 etiquette 602
Temples (individual) Baoguang Si 366 Confucian Temple (Suzhou) 217 Confucius Temple (Beijing) 99 Dong Yue Miao (Beijing) 99 Eight Immortals Temple (Xi’an) 167, 170 Fayuan Temple (Beijing) 104 Great Bell Temple (Beijing) 109 Hanging Temple 127, 137 Hanshan Si (Suzhou) 217 Heng Shan 267 Jade Buddha Temple (Shanghai) 202 Jing’an Temple (Shanghai) 202 Jiuhua Shan 240 Jokhang Temple (Lhasa) 534, 536–7 Lama Temple (Beijing) 98–9 Linggu Temple (Nanjing) 235, 236 Man Mo Temple (Hong Kong) 13, 320 Puning Si (Chengde) 129, 130–31 Shaolin Temple 147, 164, 165 Shuanglin Si 145 Ta’er Si 504–5 Tai Shan 150–51 Tanzhe Temple 116 Temple of Heaven (Beijing) 12, 76, 102–3 White Clouds Temple (Beijing) 104–5 Wong Tai Sin Temple (Hong Kong) 323 Wutai Shan 140–42 see also individual towns and cities Temur Oljeitu 58 Ten Kingdoms 58, 64 Ten Thousand Buddha Cave (Longmen Caves) 161 10,000 Buddhas Monastery (Hong Kong) 326 Teng Wang Pavilion (Nanchang) 256–7 Tengchong 395 Tengger Desert 480 Terrace for Watching the Sunrise (Heng Shan) 267 Terracotta Army 10, 16, 60, 79, 167, 174–5 Textiles Beijing shops 118, 119 Shanghai shops 206, 207 silk 214–15 Silk Embroidery Research Institute (Suzhou) 216 Suzhou Silk Museum (Suzhou) 210 tours 593 What to Buy in China 589 Thangkas 540
Theater 47 Beijing 118, 119 Beijing Opera 80–81, 119, 590 Museum of Opera and Theater (Suzhou) 211 shadow plays and puppet theater 591 Shanghai 206, 207 traditional theater 119, 590–91 Theft 604 Theme parks Fisherman’s Wharf (Macau) 334 Hong Kong Disneyland 331, 338, 339 Ocean Park (Hong Kong) 328–9 Shenzhen 302 Themed restaurants 567 Third Moon Fair 51 Thousand Buddha Caves (Kizil) 17, 513 Thousand Buddha Cliffs (Nanjing) 237 Thousand Buddha Mountain (Jinan) 148 Three Gorges 11, 15, 276–7 Three Gorges Dam 15, 73, 182, 265, 274–5, 358–60 Three Gorges Museum 356 Yangzi cruise 358, 359 Three Pools Reflecting the Moon (Hangzhou) 248 Tian Chi 17, 443, 454, 455, 507, 510 Tian Hau Festival 51 Tian Shan 467, 507 Tian Tan (Temple of Heaven, Beijing) 76, 102–3 Tian’an Men (Beijing), Street-byStreet map 89 Tian’an Men Square (Beijing) 12, 73 Street-by-Street map 88–9 Tianchan Yifu Theater (Shanghai) 206, 207 Tianchao Gong (Nanjing) 229 Tianhou (Empress of Heaven) 155 Tianhou Gong (Shantou) 302 Tianhou Temple (Tianjin) 135 Tianjin 79, 135 food and drink 83 hotels 559 map 135 restaurants 574 Tianjin Eye 135 Tianjin province 127 hotels 558–9 map 127 restaurants 573–4 Tianjixiang Museum (Pingyao) 145 Tianlong Shan Grottoes (Taiyuan) 143 Tianqi emperor 58 Tianqiao Happy Teahouse (Beijing) 119
GENERAL INDEX
Tianshi Dong (Qingcheng Shan) 374 Tianshui 467 Tianshun emperor 58 Tiantai Buddhist sect 253 Tiantai Shan 253, 406 Tiantai Zhengding (Jiuhua Shan) 240 Tianxing 407 Tianya Haijiao 311 Tianye Ge (Ningbo) 252 Tianyou Shan 298 Tianzhu Peak (Wudang Shan) 278 Tianzi Ge (Wulingyuan) 271 Tibet 520–51 British invasion 547 customs information 599 frontier 377, 503 The “Great Game” 495, 547 hotels 563 landscape and wildlife 26 Lhasa 532–41 map 522–3 nomadic life 528–9 Portrait of Tibet 524–5 restaurants 585 Tibetan plateau 483, 531 visas and passports 598–9 Zhongdian 401 Tibet Museum (Lhasa) 533 Tibetan Buddhism 467, 524, 526–7 Lukhang (Lhasa) 532 Samye Monastery 544–5 Ta’er Si 504–5 thangkas and mandalas 540 Xilitu Zhao (Hohhot) 474–5 Tibetan Connections 595 Tibetan New Year 50 Tibetan Oracle 540–41 Tickets admission charges 600 advance booking 598 air travel 612–13, 615 buses 619 trains 617 Tiger Beach Scenic Area 450 Tiger Hill (Suzhou) 217 Tiger Lair (Longgong Dong) 407 Tiger Leaping Gorge 14, 379, 400–401 Tigers, Siberian Tiger Park (Harbin) 456 Time zones 601 Timetables, train 616 Timur 495 Tin Hau Temple (Stanley) 329 Tingri 551 Tipping 603 in hotels 557 in restaurants 569 Toba Wei 59, 61 Toghon Temur 58 Toilets, public 605
Tombs and cemeteries Aba Khoja Mausoleum (Kashgar) 517 Astana 509 Confucius Forest (Qufu) 149 East Tomb (Shenyang) 445 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Gongyi 164 Hunan Provincial Museum (Changsha) 266 Islamic Cemetery (Guangzhou) 306–7 King of Borneo’s Tomb (Nanjing) 237 Longhua Cemetery of Martyrs (Shanghai) 205 Mahao Cave Tombs (Le Shan) 371 Ming Tombs (Beijing) 110–11 Nan Yue Tomb (Guangzhou) 306 North Tomb (Shenyang) 445 Old Protestant Cemetery (Macau) 332 Stanley Cemetery 329 Terracotta Army 174–5 Tomb of Yuan Shikai (Anyang) 158 Tomb of Yusup Hazi Hajup (Kashgar) 515 Xi Xia Wang Ling 480 Xi’an 176 Xiao Ling Tomb (Nanjing) 236 Yue Fei Mu (Hangzhou) 246 Tongli 183, 222 Tongmenghui (United League) 69 Tongren 502 Tongrentang Pharmacy (Beijing) 91 Tongzhi emperor 59, 107 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Tourist information 600 Tours Choosing a tour 593, 595 Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 see also Itineraries Tower of the Fragrance of Buddha (Summer Palace, Beijing) 108 Trackers, Yangzi river 360 Trains 616–17 advance booking 598 airport links 614–15 tours 593 train spotting 593 Trans Siberian Express 440–41 Trams 621 Peak Tram (Hong Kong) 319 Trans Siberian Express 440–41 Travel 612–21 air 612–15 Beijing 87 Beijing and the North 76 buses 618–19 Central China 180
645
Travel (cont.) ferries and boats 619 Hong Kong 315 Inner Mongolia and the Silk Roads 464 local transport in cities 620–21 Northeast China 435 Shanghai 190 South China 282 Southwest China 346 Tibet 523 trains 616–17 Trans Siberian Express 440–41 Travel insurance 599 Traveler’s checks 609 in shops 586 Tree-planting Day 50 Trekking 595 Trisong Detsen 524, 544, 545 Tromzikhang (Lhasa) 535 Tropical Botanical Gardens (Xishuangbanna) 350 Tropical forests, Southwest China 351 Tsepak Lhakhang (Lhasa) 532 Tsetang 545 Tsim Sha Tsui Waterfront (Hong Kong) 13, 322 Tsingtao see Qingdao Tsingtao beer 152 Tsogchen (Lhasa) 540, 541 Tsongkhapa 540 Lama Temple (Beijing) 98 Summer Palace (Lhasa) 533 Ta’er Si 504 Wutai Shan 140 Yellow Hat Sect 524 Tsurphu Monastery 546 Tu Ta (Zhangye) 494 Tugh Temur 58 Tuisi Yuan (Tongli) 222 Tujia people 31 Tung Chung 331 Tunxi 240 hotels 560 Turpan 10, 17, 467, 507, 508–9 hotels 563 restaurants 585 24 Bends (Tiger Leaping Gorge) 400 Twin Pagoda Temple (Taiyuan) 143 Two International Finance Centre (IFC, Hong Kong) 316
U Uighur 466–7 food and drink 83 Islam 511 Khotan 519 Kuqa 513 Turpan 508 Yining 512–13 UK Embassy 605 UME International Cineplex (Shanghai) 207
646
GENERAL INDEX
Underground City (Beijing) 90 Underground Tunnel (Bozhou) 239 UNESCO Biosphere Reserves, Changbai Shan 454–5 UNESCO World Heritage Sites Baoding Shan 363 Dafo (Le Shan) 370–73 Hongcun 240 Imperial Palace (Shenyang) 444 Lijiang 379, 396–7 Longmen Caves 79 Peking Man site 117 Xidi 240 United Airlines 613 United Parcel Service 611 Universal Theater (Beijing) 119 University accommodation 554 Ürümqi 10, 17, 467, 507, 510 climate 54 hotels 563 restaurants 585 US Embassy 605 Uzbeks 511
V Vaccinations 599, 607 Vegetarian food 567 The Venetian (Macau) 13, 333, 338 Verbiest, Father 100 Victoria Park (Hong Kong) 317 Victoria Peak Garden (HK) 318 Vietnam 379, 429, 431 Virgin Atlantic 613 Visas 598–9 Volar (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Volcanoes Heshun 395 Wu Da Lian Chi 460
W W Hotels 557 Walking Changbai Shan 455 Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 Tiger Leaping Gorge 400–401 trekking 595 in Xishuangbanna 391 Walled Villages (New Territories) 327 Walls see City walls Walnut Grove (Tiger Leaping Gorge) 401 Wan Chai (Hong Kong) 316–17 Wan Sheng Theater (Beijing) 119 The Wanch (Hong Kong) 338, 339 Wang, Abbot 499 Wang Chongyang 105 Wang Hai Lou Cathedral (Tianjin) 135 Wang Hongwen 71 Wang Jian 364 Wang Mang 60 Wang Meng, Retreat in the Qingbian Mountain 197
Wang Shi Xiao Yuan (Yangzhou) 227 Wang Wei 34 Wang Wenhan 216 Wang Xian Chen 212 Wang Xizhi 252 Wang Yuanlu 500 Wangfeng Ting (Stone Forest) 384 Wangfujing Street (Beijing) 100 Wangjiang Lou Park (Chengdu) 365 Wangjiaping Revolution Headquarters Site (Yan’an) 177 Wanglang Nature Reserve 355, 375 Wangshi Yuan (Suzhou) 216 Wangu Lou (Lijiang) 14, 398 Wangyue Lou (Beijing) 104 Wanli emperor 58, 67, 308 Ming Tombs (Beijing) 111 South Cathedral (Beijing) 91 Wannian Si (Emei Shan) 369 Wanshi Botanical Garden (Xiamen) 292 Ward, Frank Kingdon 351 Warner, Langdon 499 Warring States Period 57, 60 Warts, health precautions 605 Wase 394 Wat Ben Pagoda 388 Water Curtain Thousand Buddha Caves (Luomen) 486 Water, drinking 606, 607 Water Splashing Festival 389 Water Sprinkling Festival 50 Water wheels (Lijiang) 396 Water-borne diseases 607 Waterfalls Baihua Shan (Qiongzhong) 310 Big Dragon Pool Falls (Yandang Shan) 253 Changbai Waterfall 454 Detian Falls 403, 431 Diaoshuilou Pubu (Jingpo Hu) 458 Doupotang Falls 407 Huangguoshu Falls 407 Maling Canyon 408 Nuorilang Falls 376 Pearl-Beach Falls 376 Weather 54–5 cold weather 606 heat and humidity 606 when to go 598 Wei Gao 371 Wei Ken 202 Wei kingdom 59 Wei Wei 47 Weidong 391 Weifang International Kite Festival 50 Weihai 154–5 Weining 408 Weizhou Island (Beihai) 431 Wen Miao (Anshun) 406
Wen Miao (Wuwei) 494 Wenchang 310 Wenchang Ge (Guiyang) 404 Wenchang Ge (Yangzhou) 227 Wencheng, Princess 532, 536, 537 Wende, Empress 170 Wendi emperor 58, 59 Wenfeng Pagoda (Anyang) 158 Wenshu (Manjusri) 141 Wenshu Yuan (Chengdu) 364 Wenya Museum (Jinzhou) 446 Wenzhou 253 hotels 560 restaurants 578 Wenzong emperor 58 West Lake (Hangzhou) 183, 248– 51, 1010 Western Han dynasty 58, 60 Western Hills (Kunming) 383 Western Jin dynasty 59 Western Liao dynasty 64 Western Market (Hong Kong) 336, 337 Western Palaces (Forbidden City) 95 Western restaurants 567 Western Xia Empire 58, 64, 65, 481 Xi Xia Wang Ling (Helan Shan) 480 Yinchuan 479 Western Zhou dynasty 57, 59, 167 Westin 557 Wetlands, landscape & wildlife 29 Wheelchair access see Disabled travelers White Clouds Temple (Beijing) 104–5 White Dagoba (Beijing) 96 White Lotus Rebellion (17961805) 66, 69 White Pagoda (Lanzhou) 171 White Palace (Lhasa) 538, 539 Whitewater rafting 595 Wife Waiting for Husband (Stone Forest) 385 Wild China 593, 595 Wild Elephant Valley 388 Wild Man 183, 265, 278 Wildlife 26–9 Cao Hai 408 cranes 409 Emei Shan 368 giant pandas 367 Hong Kong Wetland Park 327 Jianfeng Ling Nature Reserve 311 Mai Po Marshes 327 Qinghai Hu 503 Shennongjia 278 specialist holidays 595 Wanglang Nature Reserve 375 Wild Elephant Valley 388 Wulingyuan 270 Xiamen Seaworld (Gulangyu Island) 293
GENERAL INDEX
Wildlife (cont.) Yingxiong Shan (Gulangyu Island) 293 Zhalong Nature Reserve 458 see also Zoos Wilhelm II, Kaiser 152 Wilson, Ernest 278, 351 Window on the World (Shenzhen) 302 Wine 510 Winter in China 53 weather 54, 606 Winter Solstice 53 Women travelers 604 Wong Tai Sin Temple (Hong Kong) 323 World Trade Organisation 73 World War II 72 Burma Road 383 Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) 357 Nanjing Massacre (1937) 233 Writing 32–3 calligraphy 33, 225 Naxi script 399 Wu Da Lian Chi 443, 460 Wu kingdom 59 Wu Laiqing 383 Wu Men Bridge (Suzhou) 218 Wu Sangui, General 382 Wu Ta (Fuzhou) 298 Wu Ta Si (Hohhot) 475 Wu Xia 240 Wu Zetian, Empress 58, 63, 64, 107 Longmen Caves 160 Luoyang 158 tomb of 176 Wudang Shan 265, 278, 594 Wudang Zhao 476 Wudi emperor 58, 470 Mao Ling (Xi’an) 176 Songyang Academy (Songshan) 164 Wuyi Shan 298 Wugong Ci (Haikou) 310 Wuhan 182, 265, 272–3 hotels 560–61 map 272–3 restaurants 579 Wuhou Ci (Chengdu) 365 Wuhu 239 Wulingyuan 183, 265, 270–71 Wuquan Shan Gongyuan (Lanzhou) 489 Wusong Fort (Shanghai) 201 Wusutu Zhao (Hohhot) 475 Wutai Shan 127, 140–42 map 142 Visitors’ Checklist 141 Wutun monastery 502 Wuwei 494 Wuwei Si (Dali) 393 Wuxi 222 Wuxi Museum (Wuxi) 222 Wuyi Shan 291, 294–5, 298
Wuyou Hill (Le Shan) 371 Wuzhi Shan 310 Wuzhi Shan City (Hainan Island) 310 Wuzong emperor 58
X X Bistro (Shanghai) 207 Xanadu 478 Xi Jiang 428 Xi Jie (Yangshuo) 424 Xi Kai Cathedral (Tianjin) 135 Xi Ling, Empress 214 Xi Shan (Guiping) 428 Xi Si Ta (Kunming) 381 Xi Xia Wang Ling (Helan Shan) 480 Xi Yuan (Suzhou) 217 Xia dynasty 57 Xia Putao 394 Xiahe 16, 467, 483, 486 hotels 563 Xiamen 291, 292–3 hotels 561 map 293 restaurants 579 Xiamen Seaworld (Gulangyu Island) 293 Xi’an 10, 16, 78–9, 167, 168–76 air travel 615 climate 55 hotels 559 map 169 Public Security Bureau 599 restaurants 575 Shaanxi History Museum 16, 167, 172–3 in Tang dynasty 62 Terracotta Army 60, 79, 167, 174–5 Xian Tong Si (Wutai Shan) 141 Xiandi emperor 58 Xianfeng emperor 59, 107 Eastern Qing Tombs 115 Prince Gong’s Mansion (Beijing) 96 Xiang Jing Yu, tomb of 273 Xiang river 263 Xiang Shan Park (Beijing) 109 Xiangbi Shan (Guilin) 420 Xiangfei 516 Xiangfei’s Tomb (Kashgar) 516 Xianglu Shan 415 Xiangyang Road Clothes Market (Shanghai) 206, 207 Xianhe Mosque (Yangzhou) 227 Xianren Qiao (Wulingyuan) 270 Xianyang City Museum (Xianyang) 176 Xianzong emperor 58 Xiao Ling Tomb (Nanjing) 236 Xiao Shi Lin (Stone Forest) 384 Xiaolong Tan 278 Xiaoyaijin Park (Hefei) 239 Xiaoying Island (Hangzhou) 248
647
Xiaozhai 418 Xiaozong emperor 59 Xibo people 513 Xidi 240 Xiding 390 Xihui Park (Wuxi) 222 Xijiang 346, 414 Xilinhot 473, 478 hotels 563 Xilitu Zhao (Hohhot) 474–5 Ximao Zhou Island 311 Xincun 311 Xinglong Tropical Botanical Gardens 310 Xingning Lu (Nanning) 429 Xingping 419 Li river cruise 423 Xingshu calligraphy 33 Xingyi 408 Xining 483, 502 restaurants 585 Xinjiang province 466, 467, 507– 19 hotels 563 map 507 restaurants 585 Xinjiang Provincial Museum (Ürümqi) 17, 510 Xintiandi (Shanghai) 13, 207 Xishuangbanna 349, 350, 379, 388, 390–91 Dai people 389, 390 Xiuqing, Prince 229 Xiuying (Haikou) 310 Xixiang Chi (Emei Shan) 369 Xizhou 394 Xizong emperor 58 Baoguang Si 366 Xu Da, General 228 Xu Guangqi 205 Xu Wei 252 Xu Yuan (Nanjing) 229 Xuan Jian 383 Xuanbi Changcheng 10, 16, 494 Xuancheng 239 Xuande emperor 58, 67 Xuandi emperor 58 Xuandu Si (Heng Shan) 267 Xuanmiao Guan (Suzhou) 211 Xuanwu Lake (Nanjing) 232 Xuanzang Big Wild Goose Pagoda (Xi’an) 170, 491 Flaming Mountains (Turpan) 509 Kuqa 513 Lingu Temple (Purple Mountain) 236 Mor Pagoda (Kashgar) 515 pilgrimage to India 35 Xuanzong emperor 58, 63 Xue Tao 365 Xujiahui Catholic Cathedral (Shanghai) 205 Xumi Shan Caves 473, 480
648
GENERAL INDEX
Xumifushou Zhi Miao (Chengde) 129 Xun river 428 Xunyang Lou (Jiujiang) 258
Y Yabuli 592, 595 Yakub Beg 512, 514 tomb of 517 Yalong Bay 311 Yalu Jiang Duan Qiao (Yalu River Bridge) 446–7 Yan Yanzhi 421 Yan’an 177 Long March 262 Yan’an Bao Pagoda (Yan’an) 177 Yan’an Revolutionary Museum (Yan’an) 177 Yandang Shan 183, 245, 253 Yang Can Mu 416 Yang Guan 498 Yang Guifei 63 Yang Jian 61 Yang Zengxin 510 Yangdi, Li river cruise 423 Yangdi emperor 59, 61 Yangpu Bridge (Shanghai) 201 Yangshao culture 57 Yangshuo 10, 14, 349, 403, 424–5 hotels 562 Li river cruise 423 restaurants 583 rock climbing 594 Yangshuo Gongyuan 424 Yangzhou 182, 209, 226–7 map 227 restaurants 577 Yangzhou Museum 226 Yangzi Bridge (Wuhan) 272 Yangzi river 15, 180, 182 at Chongqing 356 at Nanjing 228, 233 at Shanghai 201 at Yueyang 267 delta 226 Grand Canal 223 in Hunan and Hubei 265 in Jiangsu 209 Three Gorges 276–7 Three Gorges Dam 182, 274–5, 358–60 in Tibet 531 Yangzi cruise 358–60 in Yunnan 379 Yanqing Guan (Kaifeng) 156 Yantai 154 Yantai Museum (Yantai) 154 Yantai Shan Park (Yantai) 154 Yao people 390, 426 Yao Wenyuan 71 Yaoqu 390 Yarkand 519 Yarlung Tsangpo river 531 Yashow Clothing Market (Beijing) 118, 119 Yehenala 445
Yellow Cloth Shoal, Li river cruise 423 Yellow Crane Pavilion (Wuhan) 40, 272 Yellow Emperor 168 Yellow Hat (Gelugpa) Sect 524, 526 Drepung Monastery (Lhasa) 540 Labrang Monastery 486, 487 Lama Temple (Beijing) 98 Longwu Si (Tongren) 502 Sera Monastery (Lhasa) 541 Ta’er Si 504 Wudang Zhao 476 Wutai Shan 140 Yellow River 78, 159, 177 at Baotou 476 at Jinan 148 at Kaifeng 156 at Lanzhou 488 at Yinchuan 479 at Zhongwei 480 Grand Canal 223 in Inner Mongolia 465, 467 in Lanzhou 483 Mengda Tian Chi 503 Shaanxi province 167 Shandong and Henan 147 Shanxi province 127 Yellow River Park (Zhengzhou) 158 Yellow Sea 437 Yengisar 518 Yesun Temur 58 Yi, Marquis of 272 Yi De, Prince, tomb of 176 Yi people 384, 408 Yi Yin 564 Yi Yuan (Suzhou) 216 Yichang 15, 265, 274 Yijing (Book of Changes) 39 Yimou, Zang 246 Yin Tan (Silver Beach) 431 Yin and Yang food and drink 564–5 Forbidden City 93 traditional medicine 238 Yinchang Canyon 375 Yinchuan 473, 479 hotels 563 restaurants 584 Ying, Prince of Chu 60 Yingxian Pagoda 171 Yingxiong Canyon 375 Yingxiong Shan (Gulangyu Island) 293 Yingzong emperor 59 Yining 512–13 Yixian 209, 240 Yixing County 224 Yizhou Pavilion (Changzhou) 224 Yizong emperor 58 Yong Ling Museum (Chengdu) 364 Yong river 252
Yongan Si (Beijing) 96 Yongding 291 earthen dwellings of Yongding 296 Yongding river 116 Yongle emperor 58, 67, 79 Drum Tower (Beijing) 98 Jing Shan Park (Beijing) 96 Ming Tombs (Beijing) 110, 111 Nanjing 229 Yongzheng emperor 59, 68, 115, 128 Forbidden City 95 Youguo Si (Wutai Shan) 142 Youmin Si (Nanchang) 256 Younghusband, Colonel Francis 495, 547 Youth Day 51, 53 Youth hostels 554 Youyi Guan 431 Yu Gardens and Bazaar (Shanghai) 12, 198–9, 206 Yu the Great 252 Yu Ling (Shaoxing) 252 Yu Men Guan 498 Yu river 428 Yuan Douguang 381 Yuan Empire 58, 66 horse-riding skills 468 porcelain 261 Yuan Shikai, General 69, 303 Tomb of Yuan Shikai (Anyang) 158 Yuandi emperor 58 Yuanlong Silk Corporation (Beijing) 118, 119 Yuanming Yuan (Garden of Perfect Brightness, Beijing) 109, 439 Yuantong Si (Kunming) 380 Yuantou Zhu (Taihu) 222 Yucca (Shanghai) 207 Yue Fei Mu (Hangzhou) 246 Yue people 291 Yueliang Shan (Yangshuo) 425 Yuexiu Park (Guangzhou) 307 Yueya Quan (Dunhuang) 498 Yueyang 267 Yueyang Tower (Yueyang) 267 Yufeng Si 398 Yuhuang Ge (Yinchuan) 479 Yuhuang Miao (Tai Shan) 150 Yuhuang Pavilion (Baoshan) 394 Yuhuangding Park (Yantai) 154 Yuhuatai (Nanjing) 237 Yulong Xue Shan 10, 14, 398 Yung Shue Wan 330 Yungang Caves 127, 137, 138–9 Yunjiu Shan 406 Yunnan province 348, 349, 379– 401 Dai people 389 flowers 350 food and drink 353 hotels 562 maps 379
GENERAL INDEX
Yunnan province (cont.) Naxi people 399 restaurants 582–3 Stone Forest 384–5 Tiger Leaping Gorge 379, 400– 401 A Week in Guangxi and Yunnan 10, 14 Yupi Feng (Wulingyuan) 271 Yusup Hazi Hajup 515
Z Zen Buddhism see Chan Buddhism Zhalong Nature Reserve 409, 443, 458 Zhan Qian 60 Zhan Wang, Torso 46 Zhang Chunqiao 71 Zhang Daolin 374 Zhang Guotao 262 Zhang Huai, Prince 176 Zhang Ji 217 Zhang Qian, General 60, 470 Zhang Sanfeng 278, 279 Zhang Xiumei 415 Zhang Yimou 47, 145, 591 Zhangdi emperor 58 Zhangmu 551 Zhangye 494 Zhangyiyuan Chazhuang (Beijing) 91 Zhanqiao Pier (Qingdao) 152 Zhao Kuangyin 64 Zhao Ling (Xi’an) 176 Zhao Mo, Nan Yue Tomb (Guangzhou) 306 Zhao Tuo 304, 306 Zhao Zhifeng 363 Zhaodi emperor 58 Zhaolin Park (Harbin) 456 Zhaoqing 308 Zhaoxing 403, 427 Zhaozhou Bridge 136 Zhaozong emperor 58 Zharu Temple, Jiuzhai Gou tour 376 Zhe Ta (Wuhu) 239 Zhejiang province 245 hotels 560 map 245 restaurants 578
Zhen Wu emperor 278 Zheng Chenggong (Koxinga) 292, 293 Zheng He, Admiral 67, 284 Zhengde emperor 58, 59 Zhengding 136 Zhengtong emperor 58 Zhengyang Men (Beijing) 85, 90 Street-by-Street map 88 Zhengyici Theater (Beijing) 119 Zhengzhou 158 air travel 615 Zhenhai Si (Wutai Shan) 142 Zhenjiang 224 Zhenjiang Si (Huanglong Xi) 374 Zhenjue Si (Tiantai Shan) 253 Zhenning County 406 Zhenqing Guan (Kunming) 381 Zhenshan 405 Zhenyuan 414, 415 Zhenzong emperor 59 Tai Shan 151 Zhepuo river 377 Zhezong emperor 59 Zhidi emperor 58 Zhijin Dong 407 Zhiyi 253 Zhiyuan Si (Jiuhua Shan) 240 Zhong Qiu (Mid-Autumn Festival) 52 Zhongdian 14, 401 Zhonghe Si (Dali) 393 Zhonghua Gate (Nanjing) 230–31 Zhongshan Square (Dalian) 450 Zhongwei 464, 467, 480 Zhongyuan (Hungry Ghost Festival) 52 Zhongyue Miao (Songshan) 164 Zhongzhou Island 298 Zhongzong emperor 58 Zhou dynasty 57, 59, 64 Zhou Enlai 73, 256 Former Residence of Zhou Enlai (Shanghai) 200 Hongyuan Cun (Chongqing) 357 Jinghong 388 Lingyin Si (Hangzhou) 247 Long March 263 Monument to the People’s
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Zhou Enlai (cont.) Heroes (Beijing) 89 Nanchang 256, 257 Nanjing 232 Peasant Movement Institute (Guangzhou) 304 Zunyi Conference 416 Zhou Shouqian 421 Zhoucheng 394 Zhouzhuang 222 Zhu Da 257 Zhu De 72 Long March 263 Zhu De’s Former Residence (Nanchang) 256 Zhu Jiang, Li river cruise 422 Zhu Yuanzhang, General see Hongwu emperor Zhuang people 430 Dongson drums 429 Guizhou and Guangxi 403 Longsheng 426 Zhuang Qiao 348 Zhuang Song Festival 53 Zhuanshu calligraphy 33 Zhuge Liang 365, 395 Zhuhai 301 Zhuque Shan 453 Zhurong Gong (Heng Shan) 267 Zhusheng Si (Heng Shan) 267 Zigong 11, 15, 361 Zixiao Gong (Wudang Shan) 278 Zoos Beijing Zoo 105 Harbin Northern Forest Zoo (Harbin) 457 Hong Kong Zoological & Botanical Gardens 13, 317 Panda Breeding Center (Chengdu) 366 see also Wildlife Zoucheng 149 Zu Miao (Foshan) 308 Zunyi 416 Long March 262 Zuo Jiang 430
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Acknowledgments Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people whose contributions have made the preparation of this book possible.
Digital Media Team
Publishing Managers
Additional Photography
Kate Poole, Scarlett O’Hara
Vicki Ingle, Anna Streiffert
Max Alexander, Geoff Brightling, Chen Chao © Rough Guides/Tim Draper, Andy Crawford, Gadi Farfour, Steve Gorton, Colin Keates, Dave King, Stephen Lam, Ian O’Leary, Jane Miller, Hugh Thompson, Walia BPS, Paul Williams
Publisher
Photography Permissions
Douglas Amrine
Linda Dare
The Publishers thank all the temples, monasteries, museums, hotels, restaurants, shops, and other sights for their assistance and kind permission to photograph their establishments.
Additional Contributors
Picture Credits
Calum Macleod, Helen Glaister, Sarah Waldram, Martin Walters
Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left; r-right; t-top.
Editorial Assistants
Works of art have been reproduced with the permission of the following copyright holders:
Managing Editors
Production Co-ordinator
Katherine Haw, Alka Thakur
Cartographic Designer Alok Pathak
Nishi Bhasin, Manjari Rathi Hooda, Pramod Pant, Mahesh Singh
Zhang San Feng from The Explanation of Taijiquan Shi Yi by Dong Yingjie scanned by Chip Ellis with thanks to Gordon Jolly 279cl.
Cartographic Proofreader Tony Chambers
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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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By permission of The Random House Group Ltd: 269br. Red Gate Gallery: 101tl. The Red Mansion Ltd: Cang Xin “The Unification of Heaven and Men (Ice)” 46cla; Fang Lijun “Series 2 no 2” 46–7; Zhan Wang “Torso” 46clb. Reuters: 359br; Jason Lee 117tr. Robert Harding Picture Library: 205tr, 517bl; Nigel Blythe 516bc; Panorama Stock 67tc; A.C. Waltham 528bl. Science & Society Picture Library: 33bl. Shaanxi History Museum: 62br, 62clb, 172br, 173cra, 173crb. Shanghai Museum: 196tl, 196cla, 196c, 196clb, 197cl, 197cr, 197tc. Shangri-La International Hotel Management Ltd.: 554bl, 556tr, 556bl, 558br, 575tl, 577br, 579br, 580tl. Silk Road Lodges: 563tr; Sinopix Photo Agency: Lou Linwei 48tr, 174br. Superstock: Stock Connection 220-1; TAO Images 472, 530; Yoshio Tomii 372-3. The Swatch Art Peace Hotel: 193cla. Temple Restaurant Beijing: 573tr. Terracotta Army Museum: 174clb, 175tl, 175cra, 175br, 175cr. Terra Galleria Photography: Quang Tuan Luong 368tr, 368cr, 369br, 369tc, 370tr. Thames & Hudson Ltd: Photo Eileen Tweedy 34–5. Tibet Images: Neville Hopwood 526c. Tibet Heritage Fund: Andre Alexander 535tl; Yutaka Hirako 535cra. Topfoto.co.uk: 262cla, 262clb; British Museum 37bc, 69bl; Sven Hedin Foundation 499cra; The Museum of East Asian Art/HIP 67cb. The Upper House: 555tl, 561br.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
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GLOSSARY
Glossary Architecture cheng city; also means city wall chorten or stupa, a Buddhist tower containing sacred objects dian pavilion dougong elaborate bracket attaching column to beam ge storied pavilion gompa Tibetan monastery gong palace; usually denotes a Daoist temple gulou drum tower hutong alleyway ling tomb lou storied building men city gate miao temple, usually Confucian mu tomb nanmu cedar with much-valued straight trunk used for columns paifang ornamental gateway pailou ornamental gateway qiao bridge si temple, usually Buddhist siheyuan courtyard house Spirit Tower pavilion at entrance to an imperial tomb Spirit Way straight road leading to an imperial tomb and lined with guardian statues stele free-standing stone slab or pillar engraved with text stupa a Buddhist tower containing sacred objects ta pagoda tang hall yuan garden zhanglou bell tower
Culture celadon pottery with greenish glaze cloisonné enamelling, in which the enamel is raised and separated by fine pieces of wire erhu two-stringed fiddle huaju spoken theater jingju Beijing Opera lacquer wood glazed with sap from the lac tree which is carved before completely dry (see p298) lusheng bamboo instrument with numerous pipes model opera operas based on a proletarian heroic model, promoted by Mao’s wife Jiang Qing during the Cultural Revolution pipa lute-like instrument porcelain translucent ceramic ware made from clay containing kaolin and feldspar, and fired at high temperatures (see p260) sancai tri-glazed pottery, prevalent during Tang dynasty
sanxian three-stringed lute sheng modern instrument based on the lusheng with 17 to 37 pipes suona double-reeded wind instrument, similar to an oboe taotie pattern on Shang bronze; possibly representing a mythical man-eating beast xiao bamboo flute xun rounded clay wind instrument zheng many-stringed zither
History & Politics cadre Communist party bureaucrat canton a small territory where foreign traders were required to re-side during 18th and 19th century Communist Party ruling party in China since 1949 concession an area of land ceded to a foreign government Cultural Revolution radical attempt to socialize China’s culture, 1966–76 (see pp70–71) Gang of Four high-profile group responsible for some of the Cultural Revolution’s worst excesses (see p71) Great Leap Forward Mao’s disastrous policy to force the collectivism of agriculture (1958–60), resulting in wide-spread famine Kuomintang (KMT) founded by Sun Yat Sen; fought the Communists for 25 years under Chiang Kai Shek; moved to Taiwan where it is still a major party Legalism fascistic political philosophy dominant during the Qin dynasty based on the idea that man is undisciplined and must be controlled through fear Little Red Book Mao’s sayings compiled by Lin Biao, head of the PLA, in 1966 as a treatise for Red Guards and the PLA Long March Epic tactical retreat of the Communist Party from Nationalist forces in 1935 (see p262) Nationalist Party the Kuomintang People’s Liberation Army (PLA) Communist military forces Red Guard unruly movement approved by Mao during the Cultural Revolution to weed out counter-revolutionaries and destroy evidence of the past soviet regional Communist base, e.g. Jiangxi Soviet Special Administrative Region (SAR) Regions, such as Hong Kong and Macau, provided with a high degree of autonomy and a capitalist economy
Special Economic Zone (SEZ) areas, such as Shenzhen, set aside in the 1980s for a capitalist test of a freer economy and to attract foreign investment triad a secret society, especially one involved in organized crime
Natural Features chi lake or pool dao island dong cave feng peak gongyuan park gou gully hai sea haitan beach he river hu lake jiang river karst limestone landscape with irregular peaks, underground streams, caves, and sinkholes (see pp418–9) pubu waterfall shan mountain shui water shuiku reservoir tan pool xi stream xia gorge
Religion & Philosophy A-Ma Macau’s Goddess of the Sea; see Tianhou Amitabha Buddha Buddha of boundless light Analects (Lunyu) major work compiled by Confucius’s followers of his sayings arhat or luohan; one of the Buddha’s 18 disciples Avalokitesvara bodhisattva of compassion bagua eight trigrams ranged around a yin-yang symbol; a codification of qi (see pp36–7) Bodhidarma Indian monk who traveled to China in the 6th century and started the Chan (Zen) sect of Buddhism bodhisattva Buddhist deities who have postponed nirvana to help others Bon indigenous animistic faith of Tibet (see p526) Buddha the awakened one, originally the Indian Gautama Buddha; in Chinese and Tibetan schools the Buddha has numerous forms (see pp36, 491, 526–7) Buddhism religion based on the teachings of the 6th-century BC Indian teacher Gautama Buddha
GLOSSARY
Chan School of Buddhism spread by Bodhidarma; popular in Japan as Zen Buddhism Chenresig Tibetan name for bodhisattva Avalokitesvara Confucius or Kong Fuzi (551– 479 BC); developed the philosophy of Confucianism, which was then spread by his followers Confucianism dominant philosophy prescribing a structured society based on filial relationships (see p36) Dafo Great Buddha Damo Chinese name for Bodhidarma Dao in Daoism the way that permeates reality; a single cosmic force Daode Jing Daoist The Way and Power Classic attributed to Laozi Daoism philosophy expounding non-action and living in harmony with the Dao or Way; became a pantheistic religion (see p37) dharmapala protector deities of Tibetan Buddhism Dipamkara in Tibetan Buddhism, the past Buddha Eight Immortals Daoist adepts each with a superhuman power feng shui a form of geomancy that determines the flow of qi through a physical place (see p37) fo a Buddha in Putonghua Gelugpa Most powerful Tibetan Buddhist sect, headed by the Dalai Lama; also called the Yellow Hat sect Guanyin bodhisattva of compassion in Chinese Buddhism Guardian Kings four protective deities of the cardinal directions; often stationed at the entrance of a temple Guru Rinpoche spreader of Buddhism through Tibet Jampa the future or Maitreya Buddha in the Tibetan pantheon Jampalyang bodhisattva of wisdom in Tibetan Buddhism Jowo Sakyamuni in Tibetan Buddhism, the present Buddha karma in Buddhism, the merit accrued by a person’s actions, determining their destiny kora circuits of holy sites made by Tibetan Buddhists to accrue merit Laozi first Daoist who may have lived during the 6th century BC and produced the Daode Jing Laughing Buddha Milefo, the future Buddha luohan or arhat; one of the Buddha’s 18 disciples Lunyu Confucian writings, the Analects
Mahayana, Greater Vehicle, dominant form of Buddhism in China and Japan with ritual and devotional practices, and worship of bodhisattvas Maitreya the future Buddha; the Buddha that has yet to come mandala an esoteric diagram of circles and squares around a central focal point used as a meditation aid and forming an important part of Tibetan Buddhist iconography Manjusri bodhisattva of wisdom Marmedze the past or Gautama Buddha Mazu Goddess of the Sea; see Tianhou Milefo the future or Maitreya Buddha represented as the plump Laughing Buddha nirvana in Buddhism, having broken from the cycle of rebirth; attained via the extinction of desire and individual consciousness Nyingma oldest Tibetan Buddhist sect founded by Guru Rinpoche Padmasambhava Guru Rinpoche Puxian bodhisattva of universal benevolence; rides an elephant qi concept of vital force and cosmic energy (see pp38–9) Sakyamuni the past Buddha; Gautama Buddha sutra sacred Buddhist writing; a discourse of the Buddha thangka Buddhist painting on silk, originally used as objects of meditation and portable teaching tools Theravada (Hinayana, Lesser Vehicle) school of Buddhism practiced in Southeast Asia and India emphasizing the importance of an ascetic way of life Tianhou Daoist Empress of Heaven and Goddess of the Sea, equal to Buddhist Guanyin (see p155) Tinhau Tianhou in Hong Kong; see Tianhou trigram one of the eight sets of three broken (yin) and unbroken (yang) lines combined in pairs to make hexagrams for divination using the Yijing Wenshu bodhisattva of wisdom yang masculine, sun, positive; interacts with the complementary opposing force of yin Yijing classic ancient text, The Book of Changes, made up of oracles consulted for divination; source of Daoist and Confucian philosophies (see p39) yin feminine, moon, negative; interacts with the complementary opposing force of yang
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Miscellaneous bei north binguan tourist hotel bowuguan museum CAAC Civil Aviation Administration Authority canting restaurant Cantonese dialect of Chinese spoken in the south cheongsam a tight-fitting dress with a high collar and slit skirt CITS China International Travel Service; organization for international tourists, whose main interest is selling tours and tickets CTS China Travel Service; organization similar to CITS cun village da big dadao wide street or boulevard dajie avenue (literally “big road”) dong east fandian hotel or restaurant fen smallest denomination; there are 100 fen to a yuan ger round tent used by nomads of the steppe; a yurt jiao there are 10 fen to one jiao; and 10 jiao to one yuan; also called mao jie street jinguan hotel kuai colloquial word for yuan laowai foreigner lokbar traditional heavy wool Tibetan robe lu road mahjong popular rummy-like game played with small tiles mao colloquial term for jiao nan south Pinyin a standardized system for transliterating Chinese characters into the roman alphabet PSB Public Security Bureau; branch of the police force that deals with foreigners PRC People’s Republic of China Putonghua Mandarin; the form of Chinese that is the official language of China qigong martial art concentrating on the control of breath and qi renminbi currency; literally “the people’s money” sheng province shi city or municipality tai ji quan (supreme ultimate fist) martial art made up of slow, flowing movements (see p279) xi west yuan China’s currency; divided into 10 jiao and 100 fen; also called kuai zhong middle
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PHRASE BOOK
Phrase Book The Chinese language belongs to the SinoTibetan family of languages and uses characters which are ideographic – a symbol is used to represent an idea or an object. Mandarin Chinese, known as Putonghua in mainland China, is fairly straightforward as each character is monosyllabic. Traditionally, Chinese is written Guidelines for Pronunciation
Pronounce vowels as in these English words:
in vertical columns from top right to bottom left, however the Western style is widely used. There are several romanization systems; the Pinyin system used here is the official system in mainland China. This phrase book gives the English word or phrase, followed by the Chinese script, then the Pinyin for pronunciation. In an Emergency Help! Stop! Call a doctor! Call an ambulance! Call the police! Fire! Where is the hospital/police station?
a
as in “father”
e
as in “lurch”
i
as in “see”
o
as in “solid”
u
as in “pooh”
Communication Essentials
ü
as the French u or German ü (place your lips to say oo and try to say ee)
Hello Goodbye Yes/no … not … I’m from… I understand I don’t know Thank you Thank you very much Thanks (casual) You’re welcome No, thank you Please (offering) Please (asking) I don’t understand Do you speak English? I can’t speak Chinese Please speak more slowly Sorry/Excuse me! Could you help me please? (not emergency)
Most of the consonants are pronounced as in English. As a rough guide, pronounce the following consonants as in these English words: c
as ts in “hats”
q
as ch in “cheat”
x
as sh in “sheet”
z
as ds in “heads”
zh
as j in “Joe”
Mandarin Chinese is a tonal language with four tones, represented in Pinyin by one of the following marks ¯ ´ ˘ ` above each vowel – the symbol shows whether the tone is flat, rising, falling and rising, or falling. The Chinese characters do not convey this information: tones are learnt when the character is learnt. Teaching tones is beyond the scope of this small phrasebook, but a language course book with a cassette or CD will help those who wish to take the language further. Dialects
There are many Chinese dialects in use. It is hard to guess exactly how many, but they can be roughly classified into one of seven large groups (Mandarin, Cantonese, Hakka, Hui etc.), each group containing a large number of more minor dialects. Although all these dialects are quite different – Cantonese uses six tones instead of four – Mandarin or Putonghua, which is mainly based on the Beijing dialect, is the official language. Despite these differences all Chinese people are more or less able to use the same formal written language so they can understand each other’s writing, if not each other’s speech.
Qing bangmang Ting zhu Jiao yisheng Jiao jiuhuche Jiao jiingcha Huo Yiyuan/jingcha fenju zai nali ?
Nihao Zaijian shi/bushi bushi Wo shi … ren Wo mingbai Wo bu zhidao Xiexie ni Duo xie Xiexie Bu yong xie Bu, xiexie ni Qing Qing wen Wo Bu mingbai Ni hui jiang yingyu ma? Wo buhui jiang hanyu Qing jiang man yidian Baoqian/duibuqi Ni neng bang zhu wo ma?
Useful Phrases My name is …. How do you do, pleased to meet you How are you? Good morning Good afternoon/ good day Good evening Good night Goodbye Take care Keep well (casual) The same to you What is (this)? How do you use this? Could I possibly have …? (very polite) Is there … here?
Wo jiao … Ni hao, hen gaoxing jiandao ni Ni hao ma? Zaoshang hao Xiawu hao/ Ni hao Wanshang hao Wan an Zaijian Bao zhong Zhuyi shenti Ni yeshi (zhe) shi shenme? Ni zenyang yong zhege dongxi? Neng buneng qing ni gei wo … Zhe’r you … ma?
PHRASE BOOK Where can I get …? How much is it? What time is …? Cheers! (toast) Where is the restroom/toilet? Here’s my business card.
Wo zai na li keyi de dao …? Ta yao duoshao qian? … shenme shijian Ganbei Weishengjian/ Xishoujian zai nali? Zhe shi wo de mingpian.
Useful Words I woman man wife husband daughter son child children businessman/ woman student Mr./Mrs./Ms. … big/small hot/cold cold (to touch) warm good/not good/ bad enough free (no charge) here there this that (nearby) that (far away) what? when? why? where? who? which way?
wo nüren nanren qizi zhangfu nü’er er’zi xiaohai er’tong shangren/ nüshangren xuesheng xiansheng/taitai/ nüshi da/xiao re/liang leng nuan hao/buhao/ huai goule mianfei zheli nali zhege na nage Shenme? Shenme shihou? Wei shenme? Zai nali? Shui? Nage fangxiang?
Signs open closed entrance exit danger emergency exit information restroom/toilet (men) (women) occupied free (vacant) men women
kai guan rukou chukou weixian anquanmen xinxi Weishengjian/ Xishoujian (nanshi) (nüshi) zhanyong kongxian nanshi nüshi
Money Could you change this into? please. I’d like to cash these travelers’ checks. Do you take credit cards/travelers’ checks? bank
Qing ni ba ta huancheng … hao ma? Wo xiang ba lüxing zhipiao huancheng xianjjin. Ni shou xinyongka/ lüxing zhipiao ma? yinhang
cash credit card currency exchange office dollars pounds yuan
657
xianjin xinyongka waihui duihuanchu meiyuan yingbang yuan
Keeping in Touch Where is a telephone? May I use your phone? Mobile phone sim card Hello, this is … I’d like to make an international call Where can I get online? airmail e-mail fax internet postcard post office stamp telephone booth telephone card
Dianhua zai nali? Wo keyi yong nide dianhua ma? shouji sim ka Nihao, wo shi Wo xiang da ge guoji changtu dianhua. Wo keyi zai nali shangwang? hangkong dianzi youjian chuanzhen hulianwang mingxinpian youju youpiao dianhua ting dianhua ka
Shopping Where can I buy …? How much does this cost? Too much! I’m just looking Do you have …? May I try this on? My size? Please show me that. Does it come in other colors? black blue brown green purple red white yellow cheap/expensive audio equipment bookstore boutique clothes department store electrical store fish market folk crafts ladies’ wear local specialty market men’s wear newsstand pharmacist picture postcard sale souvenir shop supermarket travel agent
Wo keyi zai nali maidao …? Zhe yao duoshao qian? Tai gui le! Wo zhishi kankan. Ni you …… ma? Wo keyi shi chuan ma? Wo de chicun? Qing gei wo kankan na ge. You meiyou qita yanse? heise lanse zongse lüse zise hongse baise huangse pianyi/gui yinxiang shebei shudian shizhuangshang– dian yifu baihuo shangdian dianqi shangdian yu shi minjian gongyipin nüshi fuzhuang difang techan shichang nanshi fuzhuang baotan yaojishi tupian mingxinpian lianjiachushou jinianpin dian chaoshi lüxing she
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PHRASE BOOK
Sightseeing Where is …? How do I get to …? Is it far? art gallery reservations desk bridge city city center free entry gardens hot spring tourist information office island monastery mountain museum palace park port river ruins shopping area shrine street temple tour, travel town village province/county zoo north south east west left/right straight ahead between near/far up/down new old/former upper/lower middle/inner in in front of
… zai nali? Wo zenme dao …? Yuan bu yuan? meishu guan dingpiao tai qiao chengshi shi zhongxin mianfei ruchang huayuan wen quan lüyou xinxi chu dao siyuan shan bowuguan gongdian gongyuan gangkou jiang, he feixu gouwu qu shendian jie si/miao lüxing zhen cun sheng/xian dongwuyuan bei nan dong xi zuo/you yizhi xiangqian zai … zhijian jin/yuan shang/xia xin jiu genggao/gengdi zhongjian zai … li zai … qianmian
Getting around airport bicycle rickshaw I want to rent a bicycle Ordinary bus Express bus Minibus Main bus station Which bus goes to …? When is the next bus? Please tell me where to get off? car ferry ferry dock baggage room motorcycle one-way ticket return ticket
jichang zixingche renliche Wo xiang zu yiliang zixingche. gonggong qiche tekuai gonggong qiche mianbaoche gonggong qiche zong zhan Nayilu gonggong qiche dao … qu? Xiayiliang gonggong qiche shi shenme shihou? Qing gaosu wo zai nali xia che. xiaoqiche duchuan du kou xingli shi motuoche dancheng piao wangfan piao
taxi ticket ticket office timetable
chuzuche piao shoupiao chu shikebiao
Trains What is the fare to …? When does the train for … leave? How long does it take to get to …? A ticket to …, please Do I have to change? I’d like to reserve a seat, please Which platform for the train to …? Which station is this? Is this the right train for …? train station express train fast train ordinary train line local train platform reserved seat subway train unreserved seat hard seat soft seat hard sleeper soft sleeper upgrade ticket
Qu … de piaojia shi duoshao? Qu … de huoche shenme shihou kai? Qu … yao duoshao shijian? Mai yizhang qu … de piao Wo yao buyao huanche? Wo xiang yuding yige zuowei Qu … de huoche zai nage zhantai? Zhe shi shenme chezhan? Zhe huoche shi bushi qu …? huoche zhan zhida kuaiche kuai che putong lieche xianlu difang lieche zhantai yuding zuowei ditie huoche wei yuding de zuowei yingzuo ruanzuo yingwo ruanwo shengji chepiao
Accommodations Do you have any vacancies? I have a reservation I’d like a room with a bathroom What is the charge per night? Are the taxes included in the price? Can I leave my luggage here for a little while? Can I have a look at the room? air-conditioning bath check-out deposit double bed hair drier hot (boiled) water hotel (upscale) hotel (downscale) hostel room economy room key front desk
Nimen you meiyou kong fang jian? Wo you yuding de fangjian Wo xiang yao yige you weishengjian de taojian Mei wan de shoufei shi duoshao? Jiage you meiyou baokuo shui? Wo keyi ba xingli fang zai zheli yihui ‘er ma? Wo keyi kan yi kan fangjian ma? Kongtiao xizao tui fang dingjin shuangren chuang chuifeng ji re (kai) shui fangdian lüguan zhaodaisuo fangjian jingji fang yaoshi qiantai
PHRASE BOOK single/twin room single beds shower standard room deluxe suite
danren/shuangren fang danren chuang linyu biaozhun fangjian haohua taofang
Eating Out A table for one/two/three, please May I see the menu? Is there a set menu? I’d like …. May I have one of those? I am a vegetarian Waiter/waitress! What would you recommend? How do you eat this? May I have a fork/knife/spoon May we have the check please. May we have some more … The meal was very good, thank you assortment packed lunch breakfast buffet chopsticks delicious dinner to drink a drink to eat food full (stomach) hot/cold hungry lunch set menu spicy hot (spicy) sweet mild Western food
Qing gei wo yi/ liang/san ge ren de zhuozi Qing gei wo kankan caidan You meiyou taocan? Wo xiang yao … Qing gei wo zhege Wo shi sushizhe. Fuwuyuan! Ni tuijian na jige? Zhege zenme chi? Qing gei wo yiba cha/dao/tangshi Qing ba zhangdan kaigei women Qing zai gei women yixie … Fancai hen hao chi, xiexie hunhe can hezhuang wucan zaocan zizhucan kuaizi haochi wancan he yibei yinliao chi shipin bao re/leng e wucan taocan suan la la tian dan xi can
Places to eat cafeteria/canteen coffee shop Internet café local bar noodle stall restaurant restaurant (upscale) tea garden vegetarian restaurant
zizhucanguan/ canting kafei dian wang ba dangdi jiuba mianpu canguan fangdian chashi sucai guan
Food apple bacon bamboo shoots beancurd bean sprouts beans
pingguo xianrou sun doufu dou ya dou
659
beef beer bread butter cabbage cake chicken candies crab duck eel egg eggplant fermented soybean paste fish fried egg fried tofu fruit fruit juice ginger ham hamburger haute cuisine hors d’oeuvres ice cream jam lobster mackerel mandarin orange meat melon mountain vegetables noodles egg noodles wheat flour noodles rice flour noodles octopus omelet onion oyster peach pepper pickles pork potato rice rice crackers rice wine roast beef salad green salad mixed salad salmon
zhangyu jiandanbing yangcong muli taozi hujiaofen, lajiao paocai zhurou tudou mifan baomihua bing’gan mi jiu kao niurou sela lücai sela hunban sela guiyu, damahayu
salt sandwich sausage scallion seaweed shrimp snapper (fish) soup soy sauce squid steak sugar toast trout vegetables watermelon yoghurt
yan sanmingzhi xiangchang jiucong haidai xia didiao tang jiangyou youyu niupai tang kao mianbao zunyu shucai xigua suannai
niurou pijiu mianbao huangyou juanxincai dangao ji tangguo xie ya man dan qiezi jiang yu chao dan you doufu shuiguo guo zhi jiang huotui hanbaobao meiwei jiayao leng pen bingqilin guojiang longxia qingyu gan ju rou gua shandi shucai mian jidan mian mianfen mian mifen mian
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PHRASE BOOK
Drinks beer black tea coffee (hot) black coffee with milk filter cappuccino cola green tea iced coffee lemon tea milk mineral water orange juice soya drink (milk) tea (Western-style) tea with milk water whiskey wine yoghurt drink
pijiu hong cha (re) kafei bu jia niunai jia niunai guolü kapuqinuo kafei kele lü cha bing kafei ningmeng cha niunai kuang quanshui cheng zhi dou jiang cha (xi shi) jia niunai de cha shui weishiji putaojiu suannai yinliao
I have a pain in … I’m allergic to … acetaminophen (paracetamol) aspirin asthma cold condom cough dentist diabetes diarrhea doctor fever flu headache hospital medicine mosquito coil mosquito netting traditional Chinese medicine pharmacy prescription sanitary pads stomach ache tissues toothache
Wo ganjue bu shufu Wo … teng. Wo dui … guomin purexitong asipilin xiaochuan ganmao biyuntao kesou yayi tangniaobing fuxie yisheng fashao liugan touteng yiyuan yaopin wenxiang wenzhang chuantong zhongyi yaodian chufang weishengjin weitong zhijin yateng
Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 20
ershi yi ershi er sanshi sishi yi bai yi bai ling yi er bai san bai si bai wu bai liu bai qi bai ba bai jiu bai yi qian yi qian ling yi liang qian yi wan liang wan shi wan yi bai wan shier wan san qian si bai wushi liu
Time
Health I don’t feel well
21 22 30 40 100 101 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 1,000 1,001 2,000 10,000 20,000 100,000 1,000,000 123,456
ling yi er san si wu liu qi ba jiu shi shiyi shier ershi
Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday January February March April May June July August September October November December Spring Summer fall/autumn winter noon midnight today yesterday tomorrow this morning this afternoon this evening for the whole day (continuous) every day month hour time/hour (duration) minute this year last year next year one year late early soon now
xingqiyi xingqi’er xingqisan xingqisi xingqiwu xingqiliu xingqitian yiyue eryue sanyue siyue wuyue liuyue qiyue bayue jiuyue shiyue shiyiyue shi’eryue chun xia qiu dong zhongwu wuye jintian zuotian mingtian jintian shangwu jintian xiawu jintian wanshang yi zheng tian mei tian yue xiaoshi shijian fenzhong jin nian qu nian ming nian yi nian wan zao henkuai xianzai