Data Loading...
Ho Chi Minh City Guide Flipbook PDF
CITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES
126 Views
42 Downloads
FLIP PDF 1.11MB
Citi Prestige
SM
Ho Chi Minh City
P1
The cult pocket city guides and mobile apps for the busy, sophisticated traveler
CITI PRESENTS LUXE CITY GUIDES
www.luxecityguides.com
AH, SAIGON! SISTER TO QUAINT AND QUIETER HANOI, THIS MISCHIEVOUS SOUTHERNER IS A HYPNOTIC SWIRL OF HIP CAFÉS AND HUMBLE STREET EATS, COLONIAL MANSIONS AND GLEAMING TOWER BLOCKS, BAGUETTES, SPICE, AND ELEGANT SILK AO DAIS.
One and lower-key, tree-lined adjoining District Three, plus a generous smattering of goodies across the river in expat compound District Two. Here we go!
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
Despite much rebuilding since the war, many of the city’s elegant boulevards and French colonial buildings still exist, mixing effortlessly with the hurly burly of this burgeoning metropolis of 24 districts. The main action stations are in the commercial and retail center District
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
Blah blah • Dec-Apr is the dry season and best time to visit, May-Nov is the wet season (wettest Jun-Sep), but it’s warm all year round.
• Tan Son Nhat airport to city by cab: 30-60 mins sometimes more, depending on traffic / approximately US$5-$7, but agree on the fare beforehand, even with metered cabs.
• Tet (Lunar New Year) occurs around mid-Jan to mid-Feb and Saigon shuts down for 3-4 days but it can be pleasantly cool, uncrowded and colorful.
• Have your hotel’s business card on you at all times as most cabbies/ locals don’t speak English.
• Taxis – check for working meters and avoid scams by using reliable companies, have places written down, and pre-arrange transfers.
• Quickest way around town and to ruin your hairstyle is on the back of a motorcycle, where you’ll pay VND12,000 to VND25,000 a pop depending on destination.
• Most large restaurants and shops take credit cards.
• Beware of light-fingered rouges, especially in crowded places – keep your hand on your purse, bag-grabbers on bikes can also be a problem.
• Hawkers. Ignore them. One syllable from you will unleash a vast discourse on why you must buy.
• Ho Chi Minh City is in a state of flux and businesses change their addresses and hours more often than you change your socks, so call ahead to avoid disappointment.
• The international code for Saigon is +848.
• US$1 is approximately VND21,000. • Many kitchens open and close early, so dine early. • Have plenty of small dong for taxis/bikes.
P2
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
• Police 113, ambulance 115, information 1080, international operator 110, but limited English is spoken.
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
LUXE INSIDER
Alice Keswick
/
FASHION DESIGN
After studying fashion design at Central Saint Martins, Alice moved to Hong Kong and fronted the womenswear design at Evisu Jeans for two years. She then moved to Paris for a year to work at Pop Magazine and also became a buyer for the vintage specialist Atelier Mayer, before returning to Asia to develop her own design line Wondaland. Wondaland is a contemporary womenswear label with a rapidly growing reputation, having already picked up fans like Sienna Miller, Poppy Delevigne and Margo Stilley. Now entering its fourth season, the range is available from hip London boutiques such as The Village Bicycle and Donna Ida. Feminine, playful and effortlessly chic, the collection fuses retro glamour with cool contemporary design. www.wondaland.co.uk
P3
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
LUXE INSIDER
Alice Keswick
/
FASHION DESIGN
1) WHAT ARE YOUR THREE FAVORITE SHOPS IN HCMC? WHAT DO YOU LOVE ABOUT THEM?
3) WHAT ARE 4 OF YOUR FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN HCMC AND WHY? WHAT DISHES DO YOU ORDER?
D2 (next to Mekong Merchant) for cool Asian brands, Verlim for Indochine furniture, Saigon Kitsch on Ton That Thiep for pop art and funky design, and L’Usine and Gaya for a great range of lifestyle and interior accessories.
The Deck for sea bass ceviche; The Brick for stir-fried cactus and thien ly flowers; Les Trois Gourmande for chateaubriand, and Thanh Binh for crab noodle soup.
5) WHERE WOULD YOU GO FOR A COCKTAIL AND WHAT WOULD YOU ORDER? The Deck for a ‘Pair on the River,’ or Martini Bar for a ‘Coconut Water Martini. www.thedecksaigon.com
www.thedecksaigon.com
(Verlim see LUXE Loves) (L’Usine and Gaya see LUXE Style Itin.).
2) WHAT MUSEUM/ ACTIVITY IN HCMC IS WORTH THE CROWDS AND THE QUEUES? Don’t bother queuing – go on the Vietnam Art History Tour run by Sophie Hughes. www.sophiesarttour.com
P4
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
4) WHERE DO YOU TAKE VISITORS WHEN THEY COME TO VISIT YOU AND WHY? The grand old Post Office, Notre Dame for colonial charm, a boat trip along the river, a cyclo trip for the crazy action, Ben Thanh Market for knickknacks, and outside HCMC a visit to the Cuchi Tunnels for history, and Cao Dai Temple for sheer kitsch value.
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
LUXE Loves
P5
PARK HYATT HOTEL
CARAVELLE HOTEL
TROIS GOURMANDS
Hotel
Hotel
Dining
The Park Hyatt pedigree shines through this faux Franco-Vietnamese colonial repro exterior with its smart rooms that feature louvre shutters, ceiling fans, iPod docks and WiFi. Don’t miss the urbane dining scene at Square One, and stylish sips at bar 2 Lam Son, or the excellent Xuan Spa and landscaped pool. Try for a terrace poolside room if you can.
A historic home away from home in the city center, with flashy public areas that give way to calm chambers in woods and neutrals, some with river views. The perfect accompaniments are complimentary internet, lavish buffets at Nineteen, Pacific Rim-style cuisine at Reflections and Saigon Saigon for sundowners.
Locals, expats, visitors and Francophiles journey 15 minutes out of town to owner, chef and host Gil’s charming colonial villa with its lush tropical garden for classic French cooking, delectable homemade cheeses, and an extensive, unique and eclectic wine cellar stocked by the sommelier chef himself.
2 Lam Son Square / District 1
19 Lam Son Square / District 1 / +848 3823 4999
18 Tong Huu Dinh / District 2 / +848 3744 4585 / 11am-11pm Tue-Sun
www.saigon.park.hyatt.com
www.caravellehotel.com
www.3gourmandsaigon.com
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
LUXE Loves SIGNATURE RESTAURANT
HOA TUCN
2 LAM SON
Dining
Dining
Bar
Stunning 360° views over HCMC are served up from this sky-high eatery with an extensive menu of contemporary pan-Asian and international cuisine. Opt for the alfresco rooftop patio seating with ambient lanterns to set the mood, and don’t miss the impressive selection of wines and cocktails.
A pioneer in contemporary Vietnamese cuisine in Saigon, this converted opium refinery serves inventive palate pleasers in a celadon green, art deco environment, complete with cute courtyard furnishings by local artisans. Sample the 3-course business set lunch, or enroll in a cooking class with English-speaking chefs.
This happening, stainless steel and glass spot is a go-to venue for international jetsetters and fashionable locals alike, its draw-cards being vintage wines and killer signature cocktails like the Saigontini. Settle into the cozy lounge above the illuminated bar for live DJ performances every Thursday-Saturday.
74/7 Hai Ba Trung / District 1 / +848 3825 1676 / 11am-11pm
Park Hyatt Saigon / 2 Lam Son Square / District 1 / +848 3824 1234 / 4pm-2am
23/F / Sheraton Saigon / 88 Dong Khoi / District 1 / +848 3827 2828 www.starwoodhotels.com
www.saigoncookingclass.com
CHILL SKY BAR
VIETNAM QUILTS
Bar
ANUPA
Shopping Soaring above the city, Chill Sky Bar is Vietnam’s premier open-air rooftop venue, and a welcome escape from the street level heat and hustle. Attracting a fashionable crowd, this bi-level glass box offers slick cocktails by famed mixologist Bernardo Bernard and contemporary cuisine from Australian head chef Andy O’Brien. 26-27/F / AB Tower / 76A Le Lai / District 1 / +848 3827 2372 / 5pm2am / no sandals, no shorts www.chillsaigon.com
Shopping
Warm your body and soul by purchasing a hand-stitched silk or cotton, traditional ethnic-style or modern quilt from this not-for-profit organization. They give revenue back to nearby villages in northeast Saigon, and offer sustainable employment to women in rural Viet and Cambodian villages. Allow one month for custom designs. 64 Ngo Duc Ke / District 1 / + branches / +848 3914 2119 / 9am-7pm www.mekong-quilts.org
P6
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
Blah Blah
www.saigon.park.hyatt.com
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
This tucked-away French villa houses beautiful, hand-stitched leather bags and accessories, all made using ethical principles, and premium, sustainable materials. Add a chic range of cocktail and wedding rings, plus a rotating list of fashion and lifestyle designerwares, and you’ve got a smart, ecofriendly, one-stop shop! Villa Anupa / 17/27 Le Thanh Ton / District 1 / +848 3825 7307 / enter via alleyway at 15B next to La Hostaria Italian / 9am-8pm
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
LUXE Loves VERLIM
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURES
Shopping
SPA AUTHENTIC Activities
Activities A trove of highly desirable, refined lacquer and ceramic lamps, antiques, hand-knotted carpets and French-deco-meets-the-Orient home pieces. Mr Lim can sometimes seem a little frosty at the outset, but his attention to detail and finishes are exquisite, and he is happy to custom make and ship.
Beat the traffic and see the sights with these small-group half-day and multi-day tours to Mui Ne, Nha Trang and Hue on restored vintage Vespas. You can ride pillion or take the wheel yourself, and brave the streets as the colonial elites used to, but don’t forget your helmet.
152 Le Lai Street / District 1 / +848 3925 3648 / closed Sunday
Café Zoom / 169A De Tham / District 1 / +848 0903 652 068 or +848 0122 993 585
www.verlimdesign.com
Escape the city chaos at this pretty garden refuge located along the banks of the Saigon River. Indulge yourself with a steam, sauna, Jacuzzi bath and top-to-toe treatments, or simply take a dip in the pool and recline demurely on a lounger, soaking up the afternoon sun. Bliss. 195 Nguyen Van Huong / Thao Dien Ward / District 2 / +848 3744 6453 / 7am-10pm www.thaodienvillage.com
www.vietnamvespaadventures.com
VIETNAM COOKERY CENTER Activities This Viet-French cooking school, set in a 1930s colonial villa, will have you whipping up a storm of popular local dishes like string bean salad or beef with tamarind in no time. Half day to more intensive classes are offered, as well as optional market tours. 4/F / 26 Ly Tu Trong / District 1 / +848 3827 0349 or +848 3823 8085 www.vietnamcookery.com
P7
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
LUXE Loathes MOTORCYCLE FUMES
ROAD SAFETY
Exhaust that will leave you fuming.
A contradiction in terms, in this city, it’s everyone for themselves.
SAIGON’S HERITAGE HOTELS Desperately waiting to be restored to their former glory.
DEMOLITION The destruction of beautiful old buildings to be replaced by bland and ugly new towers. Enough!
P8
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
Fab vs. Drab TASTING MEMORIES
TOUR GUIDES
STYLISH SIGHTS
Carting a suitcase back home full of clichéd souvenirs for family and friends will be completely eclipsed one you take a half-day course at Vietnam Cookery Center and bring the taste of your travels home.
Trying to put together your own city walks, barge cruises, scooter tours, overnight trips and full or half day excursions can be an exhausting process, when instead you could call the best in the business Exotissimo, to do all your planning and scheduling for you while you relax and enjoy the sights.
Seeing the sights around the city by cab can end up as a seemingly endless series of curbside waiting, but imagine seeing the sights around the city in a chic, off-white, chauffeur-driven 1954 Citroën Traction called ‘Piaf’! Yes, you can!
www.vietnamcookery.com
Email: [email protected]
www.exotissimo.com
TAILOR TIME Purchasing a poorly made, ill-fitting suit from any of the city’s 24-hour tailors is what a great many people end up doing, but do as we do and step into decentlypriced custom tailor Cao Minh for smart suits, shirts, jackets and pants made from fine English and Italian fabrics. www.caominh.com
ART SPECIALISTS Unwittingly buying mass reproduced art and drawings from the city’s less scrupulous ‘galleries’ is an all too often occurrence, but you can avoid it by purchasing original, one-off pieces from up-and-coming and established local artists at the city’s most reputable galleries Apricot and Hanoi Studio. www.apricotgallery.com.vn www.arthanoistudio.com
P9
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
LUXE ITINERARY
Romance
Enjoy a leisurely lie-in in your plush colonial-style suite at the centrally located Park Hyatt Saigon. Skip the hotel breakfast and set the mood for the day in an intimate nook at the aptly named Hideaway Café, where the exotic international tastes are worth seeking out. After breakfast, it’s time for some art appreciation at young talent-focused Craig Thomas Gallery, then travel back to Saigon’s colonial past at Notre Dame (and the wonderfully grand Post Office just beside it), boasting huge original Indochina maps on the walls. Just opposite the Post Office is Arabian restaurant and bar Casbah, with views back to Notre Dame from the terrace,
P10
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
but don’t linger to people-watch for too long, as a shopportunity awaits! Pick up some neo-traditional fashion including stunning hand-embroidered urban wear and traditional Viet silk attire, plus art and lifestyle from Mai’s, then accessorize your new ensemble with beautiful handstitched leather bags, accessories, and customizable jewels from Anupa (see LUXE Loves). Looking to feather your love nest? Further along Le Thanh Ton you’ll find Red Door Deco, a great spot for retro/repro, vintage bric-a-brac, furniture, Buddhas, objects and accessories. While away the rest of the afternoon poolside at the delightful Spa Authentic (see LUXE Loves), and enjoy some well-earned
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
R&R while you’re at it with one of their indulgent signature treatments. Now you’re feeling rested, it’s time to recharge with a delicious Vietnamese supper at Temple Club. Situated in a converted Chinese temple, the restaurant, and adjoining Temple Bar, is an ideal spot for a night of romantic drinking and dining. Enjoy a sultry nightcap at sky-high Chill Sky Bar (see LUXE Loves), and take in spectacular panoramic views of the city under a canopy of stars, before retiring to your suite at the Park Hyatt.
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
LUXE ITINERARY
Style
A style haven to be reckoned with, the bustling commercial center of Saigon has managed to maintain a modern vibe while keeping intact its traditional Viet ties. With this mix of old and new, plus all the goodies on offer, you’d be wise to think about investing in a spare suitcase in which to tote your loot. Start your spree in the happening Le Thanh Ton area, where Kin Boutique is a must for runwayworthy satin and silk frocks (without the couture price tag) from local sensation Nguyen Cong Tri. Neo-traditionalists should head along Ly Tu Trong to find Vo Viet Chung, home to beautiful, wellmade ao dais (traditional Viet dress) with contemporary twists – like vibrant colors
P11
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
and unorthodox materials including lace. Also not to be missed are L’Usine and Gaya, both stocking a wonderful range of lifestyle, fashion and homeware. Lunch! Take a table in the balmy courtyard of former opium refinery Hoa Tuc (see LUXE Loves), where you can enjoy modern, palate-pleasing Vietnamese cuisine, or join the cooking class and learn to make your own. Make your way to stylish wellness center La Maison de L’Apothiquaire for indulgent spa packages, including relaxing body therapies, slimming treatments and facials using their own brand of handmade products from Bordeaux. Head to your pre-booked dinner table at Park Hyatt Saigon’s
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
suave grill Square One, boasting five open kitchens and a fabulous Viet and international menu, served both indoors and on the outdoor terrace. Mingle with the who’s who of Vietnam over a nightcap at the Hyatt’s stainless steel and glass hotspot, 2 Lam Son (see LUXE Loves), before retiring to your modern, Asianinfluenced suite in the Sheraton Saigon’s Grand Tower. Dô!
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
LUXE ITINERARY
Culture Good morning, Saigon! This city is a culture and history buff’s dream holiday location, with remnants of the War still remaining throughout Saigon and much of Vietnam. Start with a visit to the extraordinary Cu Chi Tunnels, but bear in mind you’ll need to allocate half a day for this activity, as the tunnels are located out of town. You can book a car and driver via Avis and take along a tasty packed lunch from the city’s premier deli Annam Gourmet Market, as food options are limited out of town. Specify to your driver you wish to visit the Ben Dinh Tunnels (rather than the Ben Duoc tunnels, which
P12
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
are a tourist reconstruction), and make a pitstop at Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station on the way, to visit with animals like moon bears and pangolins rescued from illegal trade and poaching. Head back to town to visit the War Remnants Museum, a grisly collection that serves as one of the best anti-war messages anywhere in the world. Carry on for a guided tour of the Reunification Palace, formerly the Presidential Palace, where time has literally stood still since 10.45am on 30 April 1975, when a tank of the North Vietnamese Army famously smashed down the gates and effectively ended
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
the war. End on a lighter and charitable note at Vietnam Quilts (see LUXE Loves), where purchasing a hand-stitched quilt will help support rural villages. You’ve certainly earned your supper, and where better to enjoy it than lovely Quan An Ngon, a sprawling, breezy, colonial villa where hawker food is prepared for you on the tropical terrace. Finally, slip back to your suite at the historic Caravelle Hotel (see LUXE Loves), and into what’s sure to be a very deep slumber.
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
LUXE ITINERARY
The Essentials ROMANTIC ITINERARY
STYLISH ITINERARY
• Park Hyatt Saigon 2 Lam Son Square / District 1 / +848 3824 1234 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com
• Mai’s 132-134 Dong Khoi / District 1 / +848 3827 2733 / 9.30am-9.30pm www.mailam.com.vn
• Hideaway Café 41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach / District 3 / +848 3822 4222 / 8am-late www.hideawaycafe-saigon.com
• Anupa (see LUXE Loves)
• Craig Thomas Gallery 27i Tran Nhat Duat / Tan Dinh Ward / District 1 / +848 0903 888 431 / noon6pm Tues-Sat or by appointment www.cthomasgallery.com • Notre Dame Han Thuyen / facing Dong Khoi / District 1 / 9am-7pm / 5pm mass daily / some sections closed to visitors / best time to visit is 9-10.30am • Post Office 2 Cong Xa Paris Square / +848 3829 6862 / 9am-5pm
• Red Door Deco 31A Le Thanh Ton / District 1 / +848 3825 8672 / 10am-7pm but call ahead to check / complimentary pickup service in vintage jeep or Citroën www.reddoordeco.com • Spa Authentic (see LUXE Loves) • Temple Club 29-31 Ton That Thiep / District 1 / +848 3829 9244 / 11am-midnight • Temple Bar 29-31 Ton That Thiep / District 1 / +848 3829 9244 • Chill Sky Bar (see LUXE Loves)
• Casbah 59 Nguyen Du / +848 3824 5130 / 8am-1am
• Kin Boutique 198 Le Thanh Ton / +848 3502 3090 • Vo Viet Chung 115 Ly Tu Trong / +848 3914 2008 www.vovietchung.com • L’Usine 1/F Art Arcade / 151 Dong Khoi / District 1 / +848 6674 3565 www.lusinespace.tumblr.com • Gaya 1 Nguyen Van Trang / District 1 / +898 3925 1495 www.gayavietnam.com • Hoa Tuc (see LUXE Loves) • La Maison de L’Apothiquaire 100 Mac Thi Buoi / District 1 / +848 3822 2158 www.lapothiquaire.com • Square One Park Hyatt Saigon / 2 Lam Son Square / District 1 / +848 3520 2385 www.saigon.park.hyatt.com • 2 Lam Son (see LUXE Loves) • Sheraton Saigon 88 Dong Khoi / District 1 / +848 3827 2828 www.sheratongrandtower.com
P13
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
LUXE ITINERARY
The Essentials CULTURE ITINERARY •
•
P14
/
Avis 86 D3 St / 25 Ward / Binh Thanh / +848 3512 8068 www.avis.com.vn Annam Gourmet Market 16 Hai Ba Trung / District 1 / +848 3822 9332 / 8am-9pm Mon-Sat, 9am-8pm Sun www.annam-gourmet.com
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
•
Ben Dinh Tunnels Cu Chi Town / +848 3794 6442
•
Cu Chi Wildlife Rescue Station Ap Cho Cu II / An Nhon Tay Ward / Cu Chi Town / +848 3794 7045 / 7.30-11.30am & 1-4.30pm / call ahead www.wildlifeatrisk.org
•
Blah Blah
•
Reunification Palace 135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia /District 1 / +848 3822 3652 / 7.30-11am & 1-4pm daily www.dinhdoclap.gov.vn
•
Vietnam Quilts (see LUXE Loves)
•
Quan An Ngon 160 Pasteur / District 1 / +848 3827 7131 / 7am-10.30pm at the historic and luxurious
•
Caravelle Hotel (see LUXE Loves)
War Remnants Museum 28 Vo Van Tan / District 3 / +848 3930 2112 / 7.30am-noon & 1.30-5pm
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries
Citi Prestige
SM
Your LUXE notes
P15
/
LUXE HO CHI MINH CITY
Intro
Blah Blah
LUXE Insider
LUXE Loves
LUXE Loathes
Fab vs. Drab
LUXE Itineraries