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router-jig-router-lift Flipbook PDF
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Router lift
© 2013 August Home Publishing Co.
best-built jigs & fixtures
shop-made
Router Lift Maximize the performance of your router table with this must-have, precision upgrade.
1
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Accurate, yet easy-to-use is the name of the game when it comes to the router table. For me, that means adding a router lift for fast, reliable bit-height control. But commercial lifts can be costly and may not work with every table. The solution is the one you see above. This full-featured lift provides all the benefits of a commercial version, without the cost. And its straightforward design makes it simple to build. Basic materials and off-the-shelf hardware are all you need to upgrade your router table in just one weekend. ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Exploded View Details
Lift MOUNTS directly to insert plate
OVERALL DIMENSIONS: 73⁄8"D x 101⁄4"W x 131⁄4"H
COUPLING NUT
bITS CAN BE CHANGED FROM ABOVE THE TABLE
THREADED ROD PROVIDES PRECISE CONTROL OF BIT height
CARRIAGE BLOCK IS CUSTOM FIT TO HOLD ROUTER FIRMLY IN PLACE
SET SCREWs ADJUST fit of GUIDE TRACKS
CARRIAGE BOLTS AND KNOBS tighten carriage block TO LOCK ROUTER FIRMLY IN PLACE RUNNERS SLIDE SMOOTHLY WITHIN GUIDE TRACKS
BASEPLATE SUPPORTS POSTS AND LIFT SCREW
STURDY POSTS MINIMIZE VIBRATION
Materials & Hardware ROUTER LIFT A Posts (2) B Guide Tracks (2) C Baseplate (1) D Runners (2) E Main Block (1) F Clamping Block (1)
11/2 x 31/4 - 111/4 3/ x 13/ - 111/ 4 8 8 9 5 /16 x 101/4 - 3/4 Ply. 3/ x 11/ - 5 4 8 47/8 x 7 - 21/4 Ply. 21/2 x 7 - 21/4 Ply.
• (6) 1/2"-13 x 3/4" Set Screws • (1) 3/4"-16 x 2' Threaded Rod 2
• (2) 3/4" Flat Washers • (2) 3/4"-16 Lock Nuts • (1) 3/4"-16 x 21/4" Coupling Nut • (1) 3/4" I.D. x 7/8" O.D. - 3/4" Bronze Bushing • (4) 5/16" x 21/2" Lag Screws • (8) 5/16" Flat Washers • (2) 5/16" x 51/2" Carriage Bolts • (4) #12 x 21/2" Fh Woodscrews • (2) 5⁄16" 3-Lobe Knob • (1) Router Table Insert Plate
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{ Precise Adjustments. Each full turn of the lift screw adjusts the bit height 1⁄16". ©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
start with the
1
Posts
POST
FIGURE
(1!/2" x 3!/4" - 11!/4")
A
SEE PAGE 7 FOR MORE ON TAPPING HOLES
The lift functions with your router clamped in a carriage block. This block then travels between two posts that are attached to a baseplate. A lift screw secured at the baseplate adjusts the bit height. I used the posts to position the carriage block on the lift, so I’ll start you out there. Making the parts isn’t difficult, but I’ll share a few construction tips to guarantee success.
CL
B
A
CL
POSTS & GUIDE TRACKS You start making the posts by ripping two blanks to final width and rough length. I used maple for strength and stability. And it’s important that the posts are straight and square. So be sure to check for this before moving on. A centered groove is cut along the inside face of each post to hold a guide track. A dado blade is your best option for this. Once you’ve cut the groove, the posts can be cut to final length. The outside edges of each post can be cleaned up with a roundover bit at the router table. Set screws are used to adjust the fit of the router in the lift. These screws fit inside tapped holes drilled through the posts. For more information on how to make these holes, refer to Shop Short Cuts on page 7. Guide Tracks. You can see in Figure 1 that the set screws bear against the guide tracks that fit inside the centered grooves in
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!/2"-13 x #/4" SET SCREW
B GUIDE TRACK
(#/4" x 1#/8" - 11!/8")
1#/8
the posts. To allow room for adjustment, I cut the tracks 1⁄8" shorter than the posts. After ripping them to width, sand the edges of each track so they fit snugly within the grooves while still allowing for movement. The inside face of the track has a centered V-groove that holds the runner. Figures 2 and 2a below show you how to cut this groove. To ensure that the router travels smoothly along the length of the lift, sand the V-grooves smooth with 320-grit sandpaper.
a.
PUSH BLOCK
ADJUST SET SCREWS SO GUIDE TRACK IS FLUSH WITH EDGE
1
PUSH BLOCK
END VIEW
%/16
NOTE:
B
SAW BLADE SHOULD TILT AWAY FROM FENCE
FENCE
#/8
NOTE: TILT BLADE 45°
3
GUIDE TRACK
GUIDE TRACK
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WASTE
&/8
B
POST
TOP VIEW Then apply a light coat of paraffin wax to each groove. Now you can adjust the set screws so that the tracks sit flush with the posts (Figure 1, Top View). This will help later during assembly.
Baseplate & Lift Screw As I mentioned earlier, the posts are attached to a baseplate that also secures the lift screw. The baseplate is just a piece of 3⁄4" plywood cut to shape. For added stability, I used Baltic birch. You’ll notice that the baseplate is not a simple rectangle. Instead, it has two angled cuts on one edge that meet at the centerline of the base’s length. This helps to maximize the size of the router the lift can hold, while keeping the lift screw centered between the posts.
©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
In order to do this, the lift needs to be mounted at an angle relative to the router insert plate. And the angled cuts on the baseplate allow for clearance when inserting the entire unit into your router table. Figure 3a at right shows the details and hole locations for the baseplate. Most cuts can be made at the table saw, though I used a band saw for the angled cuts. The posts are secured to the baseplate using screws. It’s important when attaching the posts to make sure they’re square to the baseplate and in line with each other, otherwise the lift may not operate smoothly. A couple of spacer blocks placed between the posts help here. Once the posts are fastened in place, sand the corners of the baseplate to match the roundovers on the posts. Lift Screw. The router is raised and lowered by turning the lift screw. This is easily done with a socket wrench from above the table. But in order for this to work, you’ll need to file a 1⁄2" hex head on one end of the threaded rod. This process is fairly quick and simple to do with a coarse file. The photos below show how. You only need to file the head deep enough for your socket to make a solid connection, about 1⁄2" or so. When you’re done, you can insert the bushing in the hole in the baseplate and slide the rod through.
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FIGURE
NOTE: POSTS MUST BE SQUARE WITH BASEPLATE AND PARALLEL TO EACH OTHER
a. !/2
TOP VIEW
2#/4
BASE PLATE
%/16"-DIA. HOLE
3!/16
4%/8
CL
&/8"-DIA. HOLE
#/4
#/4"-16 LOCK NUT
BASEPLATE
(5(/16" x 10!/4" - #/4" Ply.)
C
#/4" FLAT WASHER #/4" x &/8" O.D. - #/4" BRONZE BUSHING
%/16" x 2!/2" LAG SCREW
%/16" FLAT WASHER
b. POST 90°
#/4"-16 x 13!/2" THREADED ROD
BASE PLATE
Trace & File
FRONT VIEW
c.
FRONT VIEW
BUSHING BASE PLATE THREADED ROD
{ Trace & File. Trace the outline of a 1⁄2" nut on the end of the
threaded rod. Then file straight down to create the hex head. Clamp the rod in a vise with wood or leather jaws for a secure hold. 4
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©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
4
NOTE: BLANK FOR MAIN BLOCK AND CLAMPING BLOCK CONSTRUCTED FROM THREE LAYERS OF #/4" PLYWOOD
CLAMPING BLOCK (2!/2" x 7")
#/4"-16 x 2" COUPLING NUT
FIGURE
F
NOTE: THE BLANK FOR THE CARRIAGE BLOCK STARTS AT 7%/8" x 7"
D RUNNER
(#/4" x 1!/8" - 5")
TOP VIEW
&/8
1%/8
%/16"-18 x 5!/2" CARRIAGE BOLT
CLAMPING BLOCK
CL
2!/2 !/2 !/2
%/16"-18 KNOB
E MAIN BLOCK
#/4" USS WASHER
1&/8
#/4 2#/4
(4&/8" x 7")
1!/4
%/8
a.
4&/8
E
D
TOP VIEW
#/8
#/4
FRONT VIEW
MAIN BLOCK
D 1%/8
E
!/2
#/4
F 3!/8
adding the
Carriage Assembly One of the nice features of this router lift is that it works with almost any router. The router is simply clamped in a traveling carriage assembly.
The carriage assembly consists of a main block and a clamping block. Two runners are glued to the main carriage block and fit in the guide tracks you made earlier. You can see how it all fits together in Figure 4 above.
Carriage assembly The main block and clamping block are both cut from a single blank glued up out of three
CLAMP CARRIAGE BLOCK IN PLACE BETWEEN POSTS
A
a. COUPLING NUT
FENCE
C
CONNECT POINTS TO FIND CENTER TRY SQUARE
5
3%/8
b.
1!/2
5
1!/4
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b.
layers of 3⁄4" Baltic birch plywood. This thick blank will ensure a good, firm grip on the router once it’s mounted in the lift. After trimming the blank to overall size, you can cut a notch on both edges of the blank for the runners (see top view above). But before you can go any further, you’ll need to make and install these runners. Runners. The two runners start off as a long, extra-wide blank cut from 3⁄4"-thick hardwood. Next, tilt your saw blade 45° and cut a bevel on one edge of the blank. Then, without moving the rip fence, flip the workpiece end-for-end and make a second bevel cut. The result is a V-edge, centered on the thickness of the blank. At this point you can return the blade to 90°. After ripping the blank to final width, cut the two runners to length. Sand the beveled faces smooth, up to 320-grit. Then apply a light coat of paraffin wax so they’ll slide smoothly in the guide bars. Finally, bevel the end of each runner at the band saw and glue the runners into the
©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
1!/8"-DIA.
notches in the carriage blank, as shown in Figures 4a and 4b on the previous page. With the runners glued into the carriage blank, the next order of business is to lay out the location of the hole for the lift screw. This location is pretty important, so it’s best done by mounting the carriage block between the posts and using the lift screw as a guide. Thread the coupling nut onto the end of the lift screw and outline the nut to locate the centerpoint of the hole. Figures 5, 5a, and 5b on the bottom of the previous page show you how. After drilling the hole for the lift screw, you can cut the main and clamping blocks free from the blank and band saw both pieces to final shape. Clamp Bolt Holes. Drilling the holes for the clamp bolts is a two-step process at the drill press. I used a 1"-dia. Forstner bit first to drill a counterbore. Then I drilled the through hole with a 5⁄ "-dia. twist bit (see Top View 16 in Figure 4 on previous page). The drill press fence and a stop block helps with positioning. The last step is to add the coupling nut to the main block. I filed the corners of the nut slightly to allow it to fit into the hole, then secured it in place with epoxy.
MOUNT THE LIFT With the lift complete, you can mount your router in the carriage assembly and use it to position the lift on the insert plate. I turned the lift upside down over the insert plate to do this. Start by centering your router in the insert plate opening, then rotate the plate so that the angled cut on the lift’s baseplate is parallel to the edge of the insert plate (Top View in Figure 6). Mark the location of the posts and the lift screw on the bottom side of the insert plate. After you drill the mounting holes for the posts and the access hole for the lift screw, you can attach the lift to the insert plate and start putting your new lift to use. 6
6
FIGURE
&/8" HOLE DRILLED AND CHAMFERED TO ACCESS LIFT SCREW #12 x 2!/2" Fh WOODSCREW
COUPLING NUT
E INSERT PLATE LIFT SCREW
!/4" HOLES COUNTERSUNK
A
C
a.
FRONT VIEW TOP VIEW BASE PLATE
NOTE: KEEP POSTS PARALLEL WHEN MARKING LOCATION ON INSERT PLATE
NOTE: TIGHEN NUTS SO LIFT SCREW IS BELOW INSERT PLATE SURFACE
LIFT SCREW
NOTE: CENTER ROUTER IN INSERT OPENING
Fine-Tuning The set screws on each post adjust the fit of the runners on the guide tracks. The goal is for the carriage block and router to travel smoothly without binding or being too loose. Make small adjustments and turn all three screws the same amount on each post. This will help keep the guide tracks parallel. After each adjustment turn the lift screw to check for smooth travel. For best results, alternate posts when making adjustments so that the router stays centered within the insert plate opening.
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Left side
Right side
©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
tips from
Our Shop
Shop Short Cuts Custom-Made Threads Tapping holes in wood isn’t difficult, but there are some tricks to make it easier and get the best results. And you don’t have to purchase a tap and die set. The tapped holes for the 1⁄2"-13 set screws used on the router lift
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posts were started by drilling a 27⁄ " hole. And to cut the threads, I 64 used one of the set screws. A deep groove filed across the threads provides the cutting action, as shown in the photo at left. To install the set screws straight, start by clamping the workpiece to your drill press table. Use a hex bit in the drill to drive the insert. With the power off, slowly lower the chuck while rotating it by hand. Back the set screw out after every few rotations to clear the chips and ensure a clean cut.
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!/2"-13 SET SCREW
a. SET SCREW
HEX BIT
NOTE: WITH THE POWER OFF, ROTATE CHUCK SLOWLY WHILE LOWERING INTO WORKPIECE
©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
MAIL ORDER SOURCES Woodsmith Store 800-444-7527 McMaster-Carr 630-833-0300 mcmaster.com Reid Supply 800-253-0421 reidsupply.com
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Project Sources For the shop-made router lift, you’ll need 3-lobe knobs (JCL-345), which I purchased from Reid Supply. The 3⁄4"-16 threaded rod (98957A813), 3⁄ "-16 coupling nuts (90977A220), 4 3⁄ "-16 lock nuts (90630A170), and 3⁄ " 4 4 flat washers (98029A036), were purchased from McMaster-Carr. The 3⁄4" bronze bushing (6391K258) and 1⁄2"13 set screws (94105A710) also came from McMaster-Carr.
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©2013 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.