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ADVERTISEMENT.
It is
coining dollars for others....
^^^Why
not for you?
Our Rotary Cylinder Has
^'J^equtd^"
a magical effect on Profits.
produces more fabri runs 10 to 25 per c speed. It does away with t' It has but One Cylinde Double Crank and Two-Lever the harness is simple as A. Our Catalogue No. 12 v repeat orders from manufai Jacquard machine. It
es the cards safely at
It
5c Second and
ditions of the loom. Our I our method of adjusting
y we are getting stacks ol worth of this ingenious
J
Franklin Institute {j^kar^
B.— To reach our wo
er, •HIA, U. 5. A.
i
Class Jf.
any
^
Accessioi^.^.^...\..^
Beading K.B.
to
ADVERTISEMENT.
Knowles Loom Works WORCESTER, MASS.,
U. S. A.
Awards
FiuB
AT THE
World's .
Columbian Exposition.
Makers
The
of
Power Looms of Every Description, Also Jacquards and Dobbies. demand
extraordinary
for
our
Rise and Fall 3ingle-Leuer Jacquards is sufficient
evidence that they are
They can be operated
at
a
s uperior to all others.
Higher Rate of Speed than
any other (Rotary not excepted). V:
We
manufacture Jacquards
every class of
for
Weaving for which such
machines can be used.
The
"Mford
Dobby"
is
too well
than mere reference, over 16,000 being
in
known
use.
It is
to need
more
adapted for
Lenos, Double Weaves, Towels, or any class of goods requiring fancy effects, not sufficiently elaborate to require Jacquards.
SEND FOR CATALOGUES AND PRICES OF ALL OUR MACHINERY.
THE "KNOWLES LOOM" FOR FOREIGN COUNTRIES i^Buiitby
HOLLINQWORTH & DOBCROSS, ENGI-75ND.
HITTCHINSON.
WE ALSO HAVE BRANCH WORKS LOCATED AT (See also Outside
Back
PROVIDENCE,
Cover.)
CO., R.
I.,
U. S. A.
ADVERTISEMENT.
Silk Yarns Gray
In
or absolutely
FaSt ColOFS,
WARRANTED TO STAND In Skein or
every description.
of
FULLING.
Chain Warps and on Spools, Cops, Cones and Shuttle Bobbins.
S. Friedberger, 435 Bourse Building,
Philadelphia.
LONQ DISTANCE TELEPHONE CONNECTION.
ESTABLISHED
CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED.
1831..
& MARBLE
CURTIS
MACHINE COMPANY,
MANUFACTURERS OF
Wool Burring, Picking and Mixing Machinery.
CLOTH Finishing Machinery, For Cotton, Woolen, Worsted, Plush Goods, Etc. SHEARING MACHINES A SPECIALTY.
WORCESTER, MASS.
and Works, Webster Square,
Office
WOOL PREPARING MACHINERY. Shake Willows or Dusters Feafnoughts or Tenter Hook Pickers Goddard Burr Pickers Steel Ring and Solid Packing Burring Machines, with Steel Ring Feed Rolls, for Woolen and Worsted Cards. ;
;
;
FINISHING MACHINERY. kinds of Cotton, Woolen and Worsted Goods, Plushes, Carpets, Rugs, Mats, etc Up and Down, Double Acting, Steam, and Gessner Gigs Gessner Rolling Teasel Gigs Endless Felt Gigs Wire Nappers for Satinets, Blankets, Knit Fleecings, etc. Single and Double Acting Brushing Machines Cotton Brushing Machines Gas Singeing Machines Steam Finishing Machines Stretching and Rolling Machines Patent Doubling and Tacking Machines Gessner Rotary Steam Cloth Press Reversible Flock Cutters Flock Renovators Rag Cutters Cloth Winders and Measurers Cloth Folding and Measuring Machines Shear Grinders Railway Sewing Machines, etc., etc. Machine Brushes of all kinds made and repaired. Particular attention paid to repairing and grinding Shear Blades and Burr Cylinders.
Shearing Machines for
all
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
;
SEND FOR OATALOQUE. iii
.
ADVERTISEMENT
JAME3 BARKER, cotton and¥oolen machinery S. E. Cor.
2d and Somerset
Philadelphia, Pa.
Ste.,
Double Apron Condenser 1.
Increases production 10-40%.
3.
Improves quality. Adaptable to fine or coarse numbers
4.
Equipped with perfect aprons, plain
5.
Now
2.
of yarn. or "pocket."
working on every grade of
stock carded. 6.
Necessary to profitable yarn making.
Fast Running Non-OilLeaking Doffing Comb For cotton,
woolen
and
worsted cards. Can be run at highest speed. Working parts always in oil. Adjusted by single screw. Durable and cheap.
New Automatic Spur-Gear
Cutter
Compact and sturdy construction. Driven by one
belt.
Speed limited only by strength of 4.
Minimum amount
cutter.
of over-run.
Cutter table returns at rate of 90 inches a minute. Perfect spacer, steady cutter.
Entirely automatic.
Moulders' Improved Flask 1.
Prevents shifted or shotover castings.
2.
Saves time and labor.
3.
Increases production.
4.
Perfect
5.
All parts renewable.
6.
More work done by hinge
7.
Positive pin guide.
8.
No
fins
lift,
—
less patching.
less
work
lift.
in cleaning shed.
ADVERTISEMENT.
Griswold Worsted Co. ^""^r/""-^^^
LIMITED.
Worsted Yarns
Spun Silk Yarns
SUITABLE FOR
HOSIERY, UNDERWEAR, UPHOLSTERY FABRICS.
WARPS FOR PLUSHES AND DRESS GOODS ON CONES OR SPOOLS
CaSSimere -
-
ftilk Office,
V^rng
322 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa.
JosiAH Gates MANUFACTURERS OF
Fast colors on spools.
& Sons
Oak Tanned Leather Belting
Lace Leather, Worsted Apron
Leather,
Loom Strapping and Worsted
Rubber
3^Iti'^S^
307 Market
and
St.,
Picker
Leather,
Aprons,
]*\ill
S^PP^^^^*
Lowell, Mass.
AnVRRTISEMENT.
Fairmount Machine Co. Twenty=second and
Wood
Sts.,
PHILADELPHIA, PA.
Textile Machinery: Patent Looms,
of superior merit, entirely new, patent of 1895.
Patent Harness Motions, to
Patent
best for the manufacturer, best for the weaver, can be j&tted
any loom.
Warp
Tension Attachment,
absolutely prevents
"smashes" and makes
even cloth, applicable to any loom.
Patent Cop and Bobbin Winding Machines, Plain and Pressure
Beaming Machines
save yarn and give perfect bobbins.
.
Plain and Pressure Spoolers.
Dyeing and Sizing Hachines. **
Bridesburg " Looms and flachinery.
Power Transmitting flachinery: Self=oiling Bearings,
cleanly,
Patent Friction Pulleys,
most economical.
simple, eflBcient, can be depended upon.
Vertical Shaft Transmission, the bearings
Patent fluley Driving,
Forms
run
adjustable, self-oiling.
Patent Belt Tighteners, special
will
capable of fine adjustment.
of Driving,
for difficult situations.
Rope Transmission.
vi
cool.
W
ADVERTISEMENT.
00LENS/.>^^"^|1UALITY / ORSTEDS V/UANTITY ..PRODUCED ON THE...
Qrompton
High speed
^001118
Close Shed Witli
"
189r>
»
Patent Harness Motion
:—
Giving absolute freedom from mispicks.
With "
1
89.>
"
Positive
Take-up
The number of teeth
in the ratchet indicating the exact and corresponding number of picks.
Wifli Patent Adjustable
Driving Motion:—
Allowing quick change of speed without removal of pulleys or belt.
CROMPTON
" 1895 "
WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM.
^ROMPTON pANCY
(j INGHAM
LoOMS
ALL OTHER MAKERS TAKE AS THEIR STANDARD. Are built
vf ith
a Positive Take-up Motion.
Number of teeth in gear produces corresponding number of picks in cloth.
WEAB
and
TEAR
guaranteed at a
minimum
point.
Our Patent Positive Compound Lever Sliding Tooth
^as no rival for
maximum
Box
Motion,
speed and accuracy.
All Combinations of Shuttle Boxes.
CROMPTON STANDARD QINQMAM LOOM
4 x
1
BOX.
Crompton Loom Works, WORCESTER, MASS. Correspondence
Solicited.. vii
:
:
Fosselt's Textile Library,
Volume
I.
TEXTILE CALCULATIONS Being a Guide to Calculations relating to
The Construction of
all
kinds of Yarns and Fabrics,
The Analysis Speed,
Power and
of Cloth,
Belt Calculations.
For the use of Students, Operatives, Overseers and Manufacturers,
—BY—
B. A.
POSSKLT, and Manufacturing.
Editor of *' The Textile Iconographic Record.^'' Editor of Textile Terms in '"''Standard Dictionary Encyclopizdia of the Arts and Sciences?'* Author and Publisher of Technology of Textile Design''\' " The Jacquard Machine Analysed and Explained'''' ; '^ Structure of
Consulting Expert on Textile Designing
''''
'"''
Fibres^ Yarns
and Fabrics.^''
Principal of PosseWs Private School of Textile Design ;
formerly Head Master of the Textile Department of The Pennsylvania School of Industrial Art^ Philadelphia,
WITH NUMEI^OUS ILLUSTRATIONS. PHILADELPHIA B. A.
POSSELT, Author and 2152 N.
Pubi^ishbr,
Twenty-first Strejkt.
LONDON SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON AND COMPANY, LIMITED, St.
Ddnstan's Housb, Fktter IvAnb, Fi,«st Strskx. 1896.
[Copyrighted
1896,
•
by B. A. Posselt]
Museum and
ADVERTISEW-ENT.
M.
A.
FURBUSH & SON MACHINE PHILADELPHIA MAKERS OF
WOOLEN CARDING, SPINNING AND WEAVING
MACHINERY ALSO
WORSTED CARDING MACHINES,
MURKLAND INGRAIN CARPET LOOM.
ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE WITH FULL PARTICULARS ON APPLICATION,
viii
THE GETTY CENTr., LIBRARY
CO.
.
LIST OF ADVERTISERS. Altemus, W. W. & Son American Drosophore Co. Barker, James Beer Paul B^nazet Heddle Co. Borchers & Co., Richard .
Branson Machine Co. Brophey,
Boston
. •
.
.
C.
.
.
.
.
D &
Son Crompton Loom Works Crehore, C. F.
.
.
.
.
.
& Marble
Curtis
Danforth Belting Co. Dolan, Thomas Draper, George
.
B & Sons
.
...
Philadelphia
,
.
......
ix xxiii
...
iv
Philadelphia Philadelphia Darby, Pa Philadelphia
.
.
John
Philadelphia
.
Boston Worcester Worcester
.
.
xxiv
Frankford, Pa Boston Philadelphia Boston and .
.
Nye & Tredick Parks
vii
Worcester, Mass. Lowell, Mass. .
Reed and Harness Co.
.
xiii
Paton, James H Pettee Machine
.
xviii
.
xvi
^
.
.
.
XXlll
...
XXX
i
Paterson, 'N.
Bost6i
Works
.
.
J.',
'
Newton Up'r Falls,
.
......
Mass. Photo. Bngraving Co. Philadelphia Posselt, B. A (Publisher) Philadelphia .
,
xxiv
Mach. Co Springfield, Vt.
Phila
Elliott & Hall Entwistle, T. C
XXX
.
Arch St.)
Phila. (606
& Woolson
Paterson
iii
.
.
.
Cleveland, O.
xxxviii xxvii
.
.
Co
Muhlhauser, F. Co
xviii
Philadelphia . Philadelphia Hopedale, Mass.
.
Mauger & Avery McCloud, C
xxvii
.... ....
xxxx
Boston . Philadelphia
.
.
st.)
.
.
.
.
.
.
Phila. (506 St.
W.
IVIalcolm Mills
xxxi xxiv xxxix
.
.
Leigh, Bvan Arthur Lord, George
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
,
pairmount Machine Co.
.
,
Firth, William
Fleming
&
Chapin
Friedberger, S
& Wagnalls Co. Furbush, M. A. & Son Funk
.
.
.
Philadelphia Boston Philadelphia Philadelphia
...
vi
'.
xvi
.
xxiv
... New York ....
xxxi
.
.
Posselt's Textile School
Queen
& Co
Philadelphia
Rhoads,
J.
B.
& Sons
.
,
.
.
.
,
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
Boston Boston
.
H & Co
Amos
.
Halton,
Thomas ...
Holbrook M'n'f'g. Co. Houghton, B. F. & Co.
Howson & Howson Howard & Bullougli Hunter Machine Insinger
Janes,
Philadelphia Paterson, N. J. Philadelphia
S.
Jones, F.
Co.,
.
.
.
.
.
New York
.
.
Philadelphia Philadelphia Pawtucket, R,
.
James
xxiv xxxviii
xxxx XX X
,
xxii
xiv
I.
North Adams, Mass
& Co Walker Co
Co Knowles Loom Works
XXX
Boston Philadelphia .
Kitson Machine
Lowell Worcester .
.
.
.
.
.
xxiv
and back cover
.
.
.
Schaum
& Uhlinger
.
,
Schnitzler, Charles H. Schofield, George L. .
Wm. &
Sprowles
Co.
.
& Houseman
Stewart, Thomas Sturtevant Co., B. F. Sullivan, Richard T. .
.
,
.
.
Philadelphia Philadelphia Philadelphia Philadelphia Frankford, Pa Philadelphia Boston Boston .
.
.
.
Textile Record Co Troemner, Henry
.
1
xxii xviii xii
xxxviii xviii
XV
.
xxx
.
Philadelphia Philadelphia
Wilder, Jacob
xxxii xviii
Paterson, N. J. Co. Whitinsville, Mass. Lowell, Mass. Worcester, Mass. .
WhitinsvilleSpin'g Ring Wilson, D. H Windle, J. B Wolf, W. & Sons Woolford, George
Woonsocket Machine Press Co
.
ii
xviii
.
.
xvii
Philadelphia
&
.
Paterson, N. J. inside back cover
.
Sellers,
A.
.
and Wilmington, Del xxx
Ring, Thomas F. Rogers, Gorham & Co. Rojde, John & Sons
.
.
I.
Philadelphia
.
.
Phila. (239 Market)
.
.
Hall, Hall,
xxxiii-xxxvi X xviii
iii
Gallagher, D J. & Co. Phila. (245-7 N. Broad st.) Gates, Josiah & Sons .... Lowell, Mass. Globe Machine Works Frankford, Pa. xxii Gould, M. A Philadelphia xviii Griswold Worsted Co. Philadelphia ... v Griibnau, Carl Philadelphia xxii .
XXV XXX
Philadelphia
Mach,
Co
xxxvii xxix
.
.
.; .
Zentmayer, Joseph
.
.
.
.
Belting
Philadelphia
.
.
.
xxiv
.
xxi
and Woonsocket, R. Philadelphia
J.
B Rhoads &
Burlaps
Gorham Rogers
.
I.
.
.
Card Grinders T. C, Bntwistle
B. A. Leigh
Sons
Geo. L- Schofield
& Co.
Carbonizing Machines
Kitson Machine Co.
Cards for Jacquard Looms C. F. Crehore
& Son
Blowers Chas. H. Schnitzler B. F. Sturtevant Co.
Coal
Card Clothing D. Brophey
B. A. Leigh
Colors Boiler
Geo.
Compound
W. Lord Books
B. A. Posselt
Card Cutting and Lacing Machinery
John Royle
Schaum
&
& Sons
Uhlinger
'
xvi xvii
xxx
Boston
CLASSIFIED INDEX. Danforth Belting Co Josiah Gates & Sons
xxxi xix
Queen & Co. Condensers
James Barker M. A. Furbush
& Son
Mach. Co.
xxvi
CLASSIFIED INDEX M. A. Furbush
Coppersmiths
Paul Beer D. H. Wilson
Wm.
Sellers
F
&
Queen
Knowles Loom Works
&
Co.
Woonsocket Mach.
Machines
Wm.
Fairmount Machine Co. Sprowles & Houseman
M.
Kitson Machine Co. E. A. Ivcigh
D. H. Wilson
& Co.
& Chapin
Schaum Engraving
Finishing Machinery
Curtis Elliott
Borchers
&
Co.
Wm,
& Marble & Hall Co.
Posselt's
Schools School of Textile
Private
Fairmount Machine Co. James Hunter Mach. Co. Geo. L. Schofield
Wm.
Sellers
&
Co.
B^nazet Heddle Co. Danforth Belting Co. Sons Geo. Draper Josiah Gates & Sons
Jacquards and Dobbies
M. I.
Thomas Hal ton
&
Silk Yarns Friedberger Griswold Worsted Co. Chas. McCloud
S.
Soaps Holbrook Mfg. Co. Spinning Rings
& Co. & Uhlinger
Spur Gear Gutters
James Barker
Heating and Ventilating American Drosophore Co. B. F. Stiutevant Co.
Hydro- Extractors & Uhlinger Journals
Textile Record Co. Knitting Machinery Branson Mach. Co. E. A. Leigh Nye & Tredick
Looms
Crompton Loom Works
J. E.
Stokers
Co.
&
Sons
Tanks
Warping, Beaming, and WIndiig Machinery
W. W. Altemus
Oils
& Co.
Insinger
& Co.
Schaum
&
Patent Solicitors
& Howson
Pick Measures See Microscopes
Uhlinger & Sons
John Royle
Wool-Scouring Machinery Firth James Hunter Mach. Co.
Wm.
Pnenmatic Conveyors Charles H. Schnitzler
Kitson Machine Co.
Press Papers C. F. Crehore & Son
Fleming
E
A. Leigh
Yarns
Printing
D.
J.
Gallagher
.
Fairmount Machine Co. M. A. Furbush & Son Machine Co. Globe Machine Works
Moulder's Flasks
James Barker
Houghton
Sellers
Geo. Draper & Sons T. C. Entwistle
Jacob Walder
&
Sons Fairmount Machine Co.
Rhoads
Howson
& Co.
Geo. Woolford Amos H. Hall
Thomas Stewart
E. F.
& Co.
Wm.
Paterson Reed and Harness Co. I
& Sons
Whitinsville Spinning Ring Co
Thomas Halton
Knowles Loom Works John Royle & Sons
Co.
Slasher and Dresser Cylinders D. H. Wilson & Co.
&
A. Gould
A. Hall
&
Woonsocket Machine and Press Co.
Mill Supplies
Crompton L,oom Works M. A. Furbush & Son Mach. Co.
Geo. Draper
Scales
Henry Troemner
Geo. Draper
Joseph Zentmayer
Parks & Woolson Mach. Co. J. E. Windle Woonsocket Mach. and Press Co
Schaum
Machine Tools Sellers & Co.
Queen
E. A. Leigh
Schaum
Sons.
Microscopes
James Hunter Machine
Insinger
& Uhlinger
Woonsocket Machine Co.
& Son
W. Altemus
W. Wolf &
Shafting, Pulleys, and Couplings Co.
Geo. L. Schofield Sprowles & Houseman J. E. Windle
Phila. Photo-Engraving Co.
Richard T. Sullivan
Design
Knowles Loom Works Evan Arthur Leigh Parks & Woolson Machine Co. Pettee Machine Works
Friedberger
C.
Mach. Co.
& Co. Kitson Machine Co.
Edgings
Richard
& Son
Insinger
Dye Kettles
Walker Janes Mauger & Avery The F. Muhlhauser Co. James H Paton Thomas F. Ring S.
Firth
A. Furbush
Globe Machine Works Howard & Bullough James Hunter Machine
Dryers
W
& Press Co
W. W. Altemus & Son James Barker Richard C. Borchers & Co. Crompton Loom Works Curtis & Marble Geo. Draper & Sons Fairmount Machine Co.
Design Papers Co.
Materials
Carl Griibnau
Machinery (Cotton and Woolen)
Dyeing, Prisiting, and Sizing
S.
Raw
& Uhlinger
Schaum
& Co.
Fleming
Publications
See Books and Journals
Cranes
& Wagnalls Co.
Jones
— Continued.
Son Mach. Co.
& Co.
Insinger
Dictionaries
Funk
&
& Co.
&
Chapin
S. Friedberger
Griswold Worsted Co. Chas.
McCloud
ADVERTISEMENT. W. W. ALTEMUS.
J.
eSTKBI-ISHED
K.
ALTEMUS.
1B65.
W.W. ALTEMUS & SON, Textile
•
•
Machinery 2816 North Fourth
St.,
Philadelphia.
BOBBIN WINDING MACHINE Patented November aa, 1887, and Variable Motion Patented September
6,
1893.
BUILDERS OF ALL KINDS OF
3^
J^m*
WE MAKE MACHINERY
COP AND BOBBIN WINDING MACHINES, SPOOLERS, WARPERS, REAMERS, CHENILLE CUTTING, CARPET ROLLING, SINGEING MACHINES, AND SPECIAL MACHINERY TO ORDER. FOR ALL KINDS OF YARN.
Correspondence Solicited
ADVERTISEMENT.
E. F.
HOUQHTON & CO.
OILS: 211 8.
FRONT
ST.
PHILADELPHIA, PA.
To Textile Manufacturers. Gentlemen*. For over a quarter of a century we have made a careful study of the requirements of the textile industries in oils and greases. Commencing with the steam cylinder of the engine, we have ascertained the exact requirements necessary for a lubricating oil to reduce the coefficient of friction on all classes of textile machinery to the lowest possible minimum, thereby effecting for our customers a large saving in fuel and repairs. We have studied the best and most economical oils for oiling wool, softening cotton, counteracting the effect of harsh dyes, etc. In fact, there is nothing pertaining to oils and greases for textile mills to which we have not given much time and attention, and, as a result, we are making special oils for the various special purposes, which are superior in quality and more economical than oils made for general purposes. good Do not worry along with oils that are and oils perfect obtain easily can you enough," when *
*
save money in the bargain. It is always a pleasure for us to respond to inquiries and give to the textile manufacturers the benefit of our extensive experience.
Yours respectfully, E.
F.
HOUGHTON & CO.
General Manager.
1
TABLE OF CONTENTS. Yarn and Cloth Calculations. PAGB
Grading of the Various Yarns Used Size or Counts Cotton Yarns Table of Lengths from No.
in
the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics According to 5 •
i
5 S
to 240's
Grading of Two-Ply Three-Ply, etc. Yarns To Find Weight in Ounces of a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count To Find Weight in Pounds of a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count To Find the Equivalent Size in Single Yarn for Two, Three or More Ply Yam Composed of Minor Threads of Unequal Counts
5 6
Woolen Yams A. "Run "System
^
,
,
Table of Lengths from
to 15-run
7
^ ^
^.
To Find the Weight in Ounces of a Given Number of Yards of To Find the Weight in Pounds of a Given Number of Yards of B. "Cut "System
6
a a
Known Count Known Count
8
Table of Lengths from i-cut to 50-cut Yarn To Find the Weight in Ounces of a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count To Find the Weight in Pounds of a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count Grading of Double and Twist or More Ply Yarns Worsted Yarns Table of Lengths from No. i to 200's Grading of Two-ply, Three-ply, etc., Yarns To Find the Weight in Ounces of a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count To Find the Weight in Pounds of a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count To Find the Equivalent Size in Single Yarn of Two, Three or More Ply Yarn Composed of Minor Threads of Unequal Counts
9 9 9 9 9
»
Spun
B.
Raw
n 12
^3
Silk Yarns,
A.
-
1
Silks
Silks
•
Length of raw Silk Yams per Pound and per Ounce from Linen Yarns, Jute Yarns, China Grass and Ramie
i
to 30
—
••
Drams
14 14
the Equivalent Counts of a Given Thread in Another System Woolen and Worsted Yarns Cotton, A. B. Spun Silk Yarns Compared to Cotton, Woolen or Worsted Yarns C. Linen Yarns, Jute and Ramie D. Raw Silk Yarns Compared to Spun Silk, Cotton, Woolen or Worsted Yarns To Ascertain the Counts of Twisted Threads Composed of Different Materials
To Find
If Compound Thread is Composed of Two Minor Threads of Different Materials. ... If Compound Thread is Composed of Three Minor Threads of Two or Three Different Materials ,
To
Ascertain the Counts for a Minor Thread to Produce, with Other Given Minor Threads, Two, Three or More Ply Yarn of a Given Count
A.
One System
^.
Two Systems
of
Yarn
of Yarns... .........f.....
•
»
'3 '3
'
14 ^4 l6 16 17
17 17
18 ^®
*5
2
To
Amount of Material Required Lots for Two, Three or More Ply Yarn
Ascertain the
for
Each Minor Thread
in
Laying Out 19
A. Double and Twist Yarn Composed of Minor Threads of the Same Material Composed of Minor Threads of Different Materials B. Three or More Ply Yams Composed of Minor Threads of the Same Material Composed of Minor Threads of Different Materials
To
19 19
20 20 20 21
Ascertain the Cost of Two, Three or More Ply Yarn
Composed
Either of Different Qualities of
Yam
only, or of the Latter
22
Item
in Addition to Different
Counts of
Minor Threads
22
of a Different Material than the Other If a Three-ply Yarn is Composed of Minor Threads of Unequal Counts as well as of a Different Price If a Three-ply Yarn is Composed of Minor Threads of different Materials as well as of Different Prices
If
One of the Minor Threads
To Find
the
Mean
is
or Average Value of Yarns of
Mixed Stocks
22 23 24
24
To Ascertain Medium Price of a Mixture when Price and Quantity of Each Ingredient are Given To Find Quantity of Bach Kind Wool to Use in a Mixture of a Given Value To Find Quantity of Bach Kind to Use when the Quantity of One Kind, the Different Prices of Each Kind and the Prices of the Mixture are Given
24 25
26
Reed Calculations
27
To Ascertain Ends in "Warp Knowing Reed Number, Threads per Dent and Width of Warp in Reed To Ascertain Reed Number if Number of Ends in Warp and Width in Reed are Known To Ascertain Width of Warp in Reed if Reed Number, Threads per Dent and Threads in Warp are Known
27
Warp
29
Calculations
.
To Find Weight of Warp if Number of Ends, Counts and Length are given If Two or More Different Kinds of Yarn are Used If Weight of Warp is Required to be Found for One Yard only When Required to Ascertain the Weight of a Warp Dressed with Yarns of Various Counts and Answer Required is for the Total Weight of Warp To Find the Counts for Warp Yarn if Number of Ends in Warp and Amount of Material, Length and Weight to be Used are Given
27
28
29 29 31 31
33
To Find Threads to Use if Counts of Yarns, Lengths and Weight of Warp are Given To Find Length of Warp if Number of Ends, Counts and Weight of Yarn are Given When Two or More Different Materials are Used in the Construction of Cloth
34 34 35
Filling Calculations To Find the Length of Filling Yarn Required for Producing One or a Given Number of Yards of cloth, if Picks per Inch and Width of Cloth in Reed are Known To Find Weight of Filling Yarn Required, Expressed in Ounces, producing One Yard of Cloth, if Picks per Inch, Width of Cloth in Reed and the Counts of Yarn are Known To Find Weight of Filling Yarn Required, Expressed in Pounds or Fraction Thereof, for any Number of Yards if Picks per Inch, Width of Cloth in Reed and Counts of Yarn are Known If Two or More Different Kinds of Filling Yarn are Used, and it is Required to Ascertain Weight of Material for
Bach Kind
37 37
37
37 38 38
If the Counts are Equal, and Lots Differ only in Color or Twist If Filling Yarns of Different Counts of Materials are Used
39
40 To Find Counts for a Filling Yam Required to Produce a Given Weight per Yard Cloth 40 If Such Example Refers to Weight Given in Ounces for One Yard 40 If Example Refers to a Given Number of Yards and Weight is Expressed in Pounds To Find the Picks per Inch for a Piece of Cloth of which Counts of Yam, Length of Cloth to be Woven, Width 41 in Reed and the Amount of Material to be Used are Given 41 If Two or More Different Counts of Filling Yarn are Used 41 If Arrangement as to Counts of the Filling is of a Simple Form 42 If Arrangement of Filling has a Large Number of Picks in Repeat 42 To Ascertain Number of Yards of Cloth Woven for a Certain Amount of Yarn on Hand To Ascertain the Amount and Cost of the Materials Used in the Construction of Fabrics 44 Find the Cost of the Same per Yard Finished Cloth 44 A. Find the Total Cost of Materials Used, and
Fancy Cassimere Worsted Suiting
•'
.'
44 44
8 PAGB Cotton Dress Goods
Woolen Tricot
45 46
Suiting
Worsted Suiting Fancy Cassimere Fancy Cotton Dress Goods Worsted Suiting Beaver Overcoating
46 48
50 52 53
Ingrain Carpet (IRxtra Fine Cotton Chain Worsted Filling) Ingrain Carpet (Extra Super Worsted Chain)
54
;
;
55
-.
;
Structure of Textile Fabrics. The Purpose of Wear that the Fabric The Nature of Raw Materials
will
Be
Subject to
57 57
Counts of Yarn Required to Produce a Perfect Structure of Cloth To Find the Number of Ends which, in Cotton, Woolen, Worsted, Linen and Silk Yarns, can Lie Side by Side in One Inch Table Showing the Number of Ends of Cotton Yam from Single 5's to 2/160's that will Lie Side by Side in One Inch , Table Showing Number of Ends of Woolen Yarn "Run Basis," from i-run to lo-run, that will Lie Side by Side in One Inch Table Showing the Number of Ends of Woolen Yarn "Cut Basis" from 6-cut to 50-cut, that will Lie Side by Side in One Inch Table Showing the Number of Ends of "Worsted Yarn," from 5's to 2/160's that will Lie Side by Side in One Inch Table Showing the Number of Ends of Raw Silk Yarn, from 20 Drams to i dram, that will Lie Side by Side in One Inch Table Showing the Number of Ends of Linen Yarns, from id's to 100' s, that will Lie Side by Side iu One Inch... To Find the Diameter of a Thread by Means of a Given Diameter of Another Count of Yarn To Find the Counts of Yarn Required for a Given Warp Texture by Means of a Known Warp Texture with the Respective Counts of the Yarn Given A. Dealing with One Material ,
,
Dealing with Two or More Materials Influence of the Twist of Yarns upon the Texture of a Cloth To Find the Amount of Twist Required for a Yarn if the Counts and Twist of a Yarn of the
B.
Known Weave upon the Texture
58
60
60 61 61
6r
62
62
63 63
64 64
Same System,
of Difiierent Counts, are Influence of the
58
but 65 66
of a Fabric...
To Find the Texture of a Cloth To Change the Texture for Given Counts of Yarn from one Weaver to Another To Change the Weight of a Fabric without Influencing its General Appearance
67
Given Cloth Required Cloth 2. 1, Given Cloth 2. Required Cloth To Find number of Ends Per Inch in Required Cloth
71
70 70
1.
Weaves which Weaves which
will will
Work with Work with
the the
Same Same
Texture as the Texture as the
73 72 73
,
73
^ Twill
— —34 -
etc.
74 Twill
74 •
Selections of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Interlaced with Satin Weaves Selection of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Interlaced with Rib Weaves
75
Warp
75
75
Effects
Filling Effects
76
Figured Rib Weaves Selections of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Interlaced with Corkscrew Weaves Selection of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Constructed with Two Systems Filling and One System Warp Selection of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Constructed with Two Systems Warp and One System Filling Selection of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Constructed with Two Systems Warp and Two Systems Filling
76
79 82
One End
82
Face, to Alternate with One End Back in Warp and Filling Face, to Alternate with One End Back in Warp and Filling
Two Ends
->
>
76 77
83
—
4
Analysis.
How to
PAGE
Raw
Materials Used in the Construction of Textile Fabrics Miorosoopioal Appearance of Fibres Cotton
Ascertain the
Wild
Weighted Silk Wool, Untrue Fibres, Kemps, Shoddy, Mungo, Extract, Foreign Wools, Mohair, Cashmere, Alpaca, Vicugna, Llama, Camel's Hair, Cow's Hair Flax, Hemp, Jute and China Grass Tests for Ascertaining the Raw Materials Used in the Construction of Yarns or Fabrics Cotton, Linen, Jute, China Grass, Silk and Wool How to Ascertain the Percentage of Each Material Constituting the Fabric Wool and Cotton. Silk and Cotton, Percentage, Wool and Silk, Cotton Wool and Silk How to Test the Soundness of Fibres or Yarns Illustration and Description of a Testing Machine How to Test Given Counts of Yarn How to Ascertain the Weight of Cloth per Yard from a Small Sample How to Calculate the Weight of Finished Cloth How to Test and Analyze the Various Finishes of Cotton Goods The Best Size for Cotton Goods Silk,
Silk,
,
To
Ascertain the Percentage of Size Substances Used in Finishing Cotton Cloth
Cotton Spinning
85 85
85
86 86
90 91 91
93 93
94 95
96 96 97 98 99 100 100 loi
,
— —
Power Required to Drive the Various Machines in a Cotton Mill Speed of the Various Machines in a Cotton Mill— Heat and Moisture Required for Good Cotton Spinning and Weaving— Sliver Table Roving Table Calculation for Yarns 20's to 26's from the Lap to the Yarn How to Ascertain the Capacity of a Carding Engine How to Find the Number of Carding Engines to Give a Regular Supply of Cotton to Each Drawing Frame How to Find the Quantity of Filleting Required to Cover a Card Cylinder or Dofifer Traveler Table for Spinning at Medium Speeds— To Calculate Loss of Twist in Ring Spinning—To Find the Percentage Cotton Yarn Contracts in Twisting— How to Ascertain the Number of Yards of Cotton Yarn on Bobbin Twist Table— Draper's Table of the Breaking Weight of American Warp Yarns per Skein— Table Giving the Amount of Twist for the Various Kinds of Twisted Yarns Production of Drawing Frames Table Giving Production per Spindle for Warp and Filling Yarn from 4's to 6o's—Production of Cards at Various Speeds with Various Weights of Slivers.
—
— —
—
—
—
Speed, Belting, Power, Etc. Speed How to Find the Circumference of a Circle or of a Pulley — How to Compute the Diameter of a Circle or of a Pulley—How to Compute the Area of a Circle — How to Determine the Speed of a Driven Shaft— A Pair of Mitre Wheels— How to Compute the Velocities, etc., of Toothed Gears— The Pitch of a Gear—^Bevel Gears
—The Pitch Line
—
of a Gear— To Measure the Diameter of a Gear To Ascertain the Pitch of a Gear— Driving-Driven How to Distinguish the Driver from the Driven Wheel How to Find the Speed of the Driving Wheel— How to Obtain the Size of the Driving Wheel— How to Obtain the Size of the Driven Wheel—Worm Wheels— A Mangle Wheel— How to Change the Speed of a Driven Pulley, Shaft or WheelTo Increase the Speed by Increasing the Size of the Driver—To Increase the Speed by Decreasing the Size of Driven Wheel How to Ascertain the Circumferential Velocity of a Wheel, Driver or Cylinder How to Find the Speed of Last Shaft— How to Ascertain the Number of Revolutions of the Last Wheel at the End of a Train of Spur Wheels— How to Ascertain the Number of Teeth in Each Wheel for a Train of Spur Wheels to Find the Number of Revolutions of the Last Wheel of a Train of Wheels— How to Straighten a Crooked Shaft— How to Cool a Hot Shaft— Cooling Compound— Steel and Iron— How to Harden Cast Iron.
—
—
107
—
—
—How
Belting
..^
m
Rules for Calculating the Width of Leather Belting (Single) Required for Given Power— Table of Safe, Actual Width of Single Belts to Transmit Given Power at Given Speeds—To Find the Length of a Driving Belt Before the Pulleys are in Position— How to Find Where to Cut Belt-Holes in Floors.
How to Manage Belts Water Power Steam Power Heat
112
Arithmetic U. S. Measures Metric System
116
114 114 115
i43
i44
YARN AND CLOTH CALCULATIONS Grading of the Various Yarns Used in the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics According to Size or Counts.
The
size
of the yarns, technically
known
as their "Counts'' or numbers, are based for the ditferent
raw materials (with the exception of raw silks) upon the number of yards necessary to balance one (1) The number of yards thus required (to balance 1 lb.) are known as the "Standard" lb. avoirdupois. and vary accordingly for each material. Tha higher the count or number, the finer the yarn according ,
to its diameter.
COTTON YARNS. 1 hank) and are graded by the number 1680 yards are necessary to 840 yards If 3 hanks or 3 X 840 or 2520 yards are balance 1 lb. we classify the same as number 2 cotton yarn Continuing in this manner, necessary to balance 1 lb., the thread is known as number 3 cottou yarn. counts or numbers of cotton various the yards the number gives for each successive always adding 840
Cotton yarns have for their standard 840 yards (equal to
of hanks
Consequently
1 lb. contains.
yarn contain for
if
1 lb.
Table of Lengths
Yds. to
I
840
2
1,680 2,520 3.360
3
4
No.
I lb.
17 18 19 21
4,
6 7
8 9 10 II
12
13 14 15
16
22
23 24 25
26 27 28 29
30 31
32
I
lb.
280 15,120 15,960 16,800 17,640 18,480 19,320 20,160 21,000 21,840 22,680 23,520 24,360 25,200 26,040 26,880 14,
20
200 5.040 5,880 6,720 7,560 8,400 9,240 10,080 10,920 11,760 12,600 13,440
5
Yds. to
No.
33
34 35
36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45
46 47 48
Cotton Yarns.
for
(From number
No.
i
to 240's.)
Yds. to
I
etc.,
Cotton Yarns are frequently manufactured into 2-ply. is
No.
lb.
50
27,720 28,560 29,400 30,240 31,080 31,920 32,760 33,600 34,440 35,280 36. 120 36,960 37,800 38,640 39,480 40,320
Grading of 2-ply, 3-ply,
for 1 lb.
=
X
2 hanks, or 2
52
54 56 58 60 62
64 66 68 70 72 74 76 78
I
42,000 43,680 45.360 47,040 48,720 50,400 52,080 53.760 55,440 57,120 58,800 60,480
lb.
No.
85
90 95 100
no 120 130 140 150 160 170 180
62, 160
i'90
63.840 65.520 67,200
200 220 240
Yds. to
I
lb.
71,400 75,600 79,800 84,000 92,400 100,800 109, 200 117,600 126,000 134,400 142,800 151,200 159,600 168,000 184,800 201,600
Cotton Yarns. In such cases the number of yards required
one-half the amount called for in the single thread.
For Example.
—
20's cotton yarn (single) equals 16,800 yards per pound, while a 2-ply thread of
20's cotton, technically indicated as 2/20's cotton, requires only
8400 yards, or equal
called for in single lO's cotton (technically represented as lO's cotton).
yards to 1
Yds. to
lb.,
(14-^-2=7), or
and thus equals 2-ply 14's cotton yarn
number
7 in single yarn.
;
to the
amount
Single 7's cotton yarn has 5,880
or 2/14's cotton yarn equals one-half the count
If the yarn be more than 2-ply, divide the number of the single yarn in the required counts by the number of ply, and the result will be the equivalent counts in a single thread. Example.
—Three-ply
60's, or 3/60's cotton yarn, equals in size
-
(60
=
3
20)
single 20's cotton yarn, or 16,800 yards of single 2G's cotton yarn weigh 1 lb., and 16,800 yards of Again, 4-ply 60's or 4/60's cotton yarn equals in size 3/60's cotton yarn weigh also 1 lb.
{^rXu^efcl^nfr}
{
Number
for
finding the
{^^^^^S^^^
^ \
15)
or single 15's cotton yarn has 12.600 yards, weighing 1
;
number of yards required Rule
=
4
(60 single 15's cotton yarn
of pi,.}
lb.,
which
is
also the
for 4/60's cotton yarn.
Weight
in
Ounces of a given Number of Yards of Cotton Yarn
known Count.
of a
Multiply the given yards by 16, and divide the result by the number of yards of the count required to balance 1
Example 201,600 Answer. ;
lb.
—
Find weight of 12,600 yards of 30's cotton yarn. yarn=25,200 yards. Thus, 201,600-^-25,200=8.
(single yarn).
1 lb. 30's cotton
— 12,600 yards of
;
— 12,600 yards of 2/30's cotton
Example— {Z-])\y yarn).—Find
2/30's cotton yarn.
12,600X16=
Thus, 201,600-r-12,600=16.
yarn=-12,600 yards.
1 lb. 2/30's cotton
Answer.
12,600X16=
30's cotton yarn weigh 8 oz.
Example (2-ply yarn).—Find the weight of 12,600 yards of 201,600
known
yarn weigh 16
oz.
the weight of 12,600 yards of 3/30's cotton yarn.
201,600 1 lb. 3/30's cotton yarn=8,400 yards. Thus, 201,600-^-8,400=24 Answer. 12,600 yards of 3/30's cotton yarn weigh 24 oz. ;
12,600X16=
oz.
—
Another 'rule for ascertaining the weight in ounces for a given number of yards of cotton yarn of Divide the given yards by the number of yards of the known count a known count is as follows required to balance one ounce (being yards per lb. ^16). :
Example
(single yarn).
—Find
the weight of 12,600 yards of 30's cotton yarn.
25,200-^16
=
1,575 yards 30's cotton yarn=l oz.; 12,600^1,575=8. An^er. 12,600 yards of 30's cotton yarn weigh 8 oz.
—
Example (2-ply yarn).— Find the weight of 12,600 yards of 7871 yards 2/30's cotton yarn=l oz.; 12,600-^787|=16. Answer. 12,600 yards of 2/30's cotton yarn weigh 16 oz.
2/30's cotton yarn.
12,600--1G=
—
Example (3-ply yarn).— Find the weight yards 3/30's cotton
Answer.
Rule
for
yarn=l
oz.
— 12,600 yards of
finding the
;
for 12,600 yards of 3/30's cotton yarn.
8,400-^16=525
12,600-4-525=24. 3/30's cotton yarn
Weight
in
Pounds of a
weigh 24
oz.
of a given
Number
of Yards of Cotton
known Count.
Divide the given yards by the number of yards of the known count required to balance 1
Example (single yarn).— Find the weight of 1,260,000 yards of yarn=25,200 yards to 1 lb. Thus, l,260,000--25,200=50. Answer.
— 1,260,000 yards of
Yarn
30's cotton yarn
weigh 50
lbs.
30's cotton yarn.
lb.
30's cotton
:
7
Example (2-ply
yarn=l 2,600 Answer.
yarn).
yards to 1
—Find
the weight of 1,260,000 yards of 2/30's cotton yarn.
—1,260,000 yards of
2/30's cotton
yarn weigh 100
lbs.
Example (3-ply yarn).—Find the weight of 1,260,000 yards of yarn=8,400 yards to 1 lb. Thus, 1,260,000--8,400=150. Answer.
To
2/30's cotton
Thus, 1,260,000^12,600=100.
lb.
— 1,260,000 yards of
^/30's cotton yarn weigh
150
3/30's cotton yarn.
3/30's cotton
lbs.
Yarn for Two, Three, or More, Ply Yarn Composed Minor Threads of Unequal Counts.
find the Equivalent Size in Single
of jlU
the
manufacture of fancy yarns the compound thread
minor threads of unequal counts. Mule.
If so,
— If the compound thread
is
often composed of
the rules for finding the equivalent in single yarn
two or more is
as follows
composed of two minor threads of unequal counts, divide the
is
product of the counts of the m-inor threads by their sum. two-fold yarn —Find equal thread composed of Answer. — A two-fold composed of Bule. — If the compound thread
Example.
to a
in single
the
thread composea of single 40's and 60's.
40X60=2400^100 (40+60)=24.
and 60's equals a single 24's. minor threads of unequal counts, com-
single 40's
cotton
three
is
pound any two of the minor threads into one, and apply the third minor thread not previously used.
the previous rule to this
compound thread and
thread a 3-ply yarn composed of — Find equal counts a 20x30=600-^50 (20+30)=12; 12x50=600^-62 (12+50)=9li equals a and yarn composed of Answer. —A 3-ply
Example.
single
in
50's
20's, 30's
cotton
A second
20's, 30's
to
rule for finding the'^quivalent counts for a yarn
twisted together
is
afterwards by the
as follows
sum
Divide one of the counts by
:
of the quotients.
To prove
iu size
and
50's.
single 9fr's thread.
when
itself,
three or more minor threads are and by the others in succession, and
the accuracy of this rule
we
give again the previ-
ously given example.
Example.— ¥md
equai counts in a single thread to a 3-ply yarn composed of 20's, 30's and 50's.
50--50=l
50^5i=9H
50^30=11 50-T-20=2l
.
6i
Answer.
— A 3-ply cotton thread composed of
Example. 30's,
—Find
20's, 30's
and 50's equals in
size a single OIt s thread.
equal counts in a single yarn for the following 3-ply yarn composed of 40's,
and 20's cotton threads.
40^40=1 40-^4i=9A
40-^30=11
40^20=2 41 Answer.
—The 3-ply yarn given
in the
example equals a
single 9t\ cotton thread.
—
Memo. In the manufacture of twisted yarns (composed either out of two, three, or more minor threads) a certain amount of shrinkage will take place by means of the twisting of the threads around both minor threads are of equal counts this shrinkage will be equal for both, but if the sizes of the yarns, or the raw materials of which they are composed, are different, such For example: a strong and heavy minor thread ''take-up'' will be different for each minor thread. twisted with a fine soft thread ; in this case the finer thread will wind itself (more or less) around the each other.
No
doubt
if
thick or heavy thread, not having sufficient strength to bend the latter, thus the finer thread will take
—
'
m
more proportion than the heavy thread. Twisting a woolen thread with a cotton thread, both supposed to be of the same counts, will stretch the former more than the latter; i. e. it will lose less in length during twisting compared to the latter. Again two or more minor threads twisted with differtip
ent turns per inch will accordingly take
more ply yarn, no
tions in 2, 3, or
up
In giving
differently.
any of the yarn calculaby means of twisting the minor
rules for
notice of shrinkage or take-up
taken in account, since otherwise an endless number of rules of the most complicated character would be required with reference to raw materials, the different counts of threads, turns of twist threads
is
per inch and tension for each individual minor thread during the twisting operation. Such rules would thus be of little value to the manufacturer since his practical experience regarding this subject will readily assist
him
to calculate quickly
take up of minor threads as the case
and exactly by
may
WOOLEN
which have run
System. and vicinity, graded by " runs " run yarn requires 1600 yards to 1 lb., 2
are with the exception of the mills in Philadelphia
for their standard
yarn—3200
YARNS.
"Run"
A.
Woolen yarns
rules given, with a proportional allowance for a
require.
yards to
1600 yards.
Consequently
yarn— 4800
3 run
1
yards to
1 lb., etc., always adding 1600 yards for In addition to using whole numbers only as in the case of cotton and worsted divided into halves, quarters, and occasionally into eighths, hence 1 lb.,
each successive run. yarn, the run
is
200 yards equal ^ run " " " 1 400 " " 600 f " " " 1 800
Table of Lengths
for
1000 yards equal f run " " " 1200 I " " " 1400 I 1600
Woolen Yarns
(From one-fourth Ruu Run. Yds.
to
I
lb.
400 800 1,200 I
2
2 3/
Rule
for
Run. Yds.
3
3X 3.^
.1,600
3^
2,000 2,400 2,800 3,200 3,600 4,000 4,400
4
4X 4/2
4H 5
5X 5/2
to
I
"
"
to fifteeu
5^
4,800 5,200 5,600 6,000 6,400 6,800 7,200 7,600 8,000 8,400 8,800
6
6X 6)4 7
7%
Known Count Graded
&c.
Run) to
I
Run. Yds to
lb
200 9,600 10,000 10,400 10,800 11,200 11,600 12,000 9,
8>^
13,600 14,
10 10;^ II 12
12
400
13
12,800 13,200
15
14
of
lb
000
14,400 15,200 16,000 16,800 17,600
9
7^
Number of Yards Run System.
I
8^
8
8X
Finding the Weight in Ounces of a Given
"
{Run System).
Run. Yds
lb.
1
•
19, 200 20,800 22,400 24,000
Woolen Yarn
of a
After the
The run basis is very convenient for textile calculations by reason of the standard number equaling 100 times the number of ounces that 1 lb. contains ; thus by simply multiplying the size of the yarn given in run counts by 100, and dividing the result into the number of yards given (for which we have to find the weight), gives us as the result the weight expressed in ounces
Example.— F'mdi Answer.
7200 yards of 4 run yarn— 4X100=400.
the weight of
3750 yards of 3| run woolen yarn— 3750-^375=10.
— 7200 yards 4 run yarn weigh 18 ounces.
Example.— F'mdi Answer.
.
the weight of
— 3750 yards of 3| run woolen yarn weigh 10 ounces.
7200-^400=18.
;
9
Rule
for Finding the
Weight
in
Pounds
of a Given
Known Count Graded
Number of Yards Run System.
of
Woolen Yarn
of a
After the
If the weight of a given number of yards and of a given
size
of woolen yarn, run system,
is
required to be calculated in pounds, transfer the result obtained in ounces into pounds or fractions thereof.
Example.— Find Ansioer.
the weight of 100,000 yards of
— 100,000 yards of 6J run yarn weigh 10
run
yarn— 100,000-^-625=160
oz. --16=10.
lbs.
"Cut" System.
B.
As heretofore mentioned, woolen yarn is also graded by the " cut " standard, consequently if 300 yards of a given woolen yarn weigh 1
300 yards
system. lb.,
we
classify
it
is
the basis or
as 1 cut
yarn
600 yards weigh 1 lb. we classify it as 2 cut yarn if 900 yards weigh 1 lb. we classify it as 3 cut yarn, and so on ; hence the count of the woolen yarn expressed in the cut multiplied by 300 gives as the result the number of yards of respective yarn that 1 lb. contains. if
;
Table of Lengths
for
(From Yards
Cut.
Cut.
to lb.
3
9 ID
1,200 1,500 1,800 2,100 2,400 2,700 3,000
II
3.300
4 5
6 7
8
Rule
for
13 14 15
16 17 18 19
20 21
22
by the
Yards to lb.
Cut.
23
6,900 7.200 7,500 7,800 8, 100 8,400
34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44
24 25 26 27
28 29 '30
31
32 33
original
number of yards
8,
700
9,000 9,300 9,600 9,900
Yards to
lb.
10,200 10, 500 10, 800 II, 100 11,400 11,700 12,000 12,300 12,600 12,900 13,200
Yards to
45 46 48 50 54 58 60 65 70
13,500 13,800 14,400 15,000 16,200 17,400 18,000 19,500
75
22,500 24,000
lb.
2 1 ,000
80
Woolen Yarn
of
" Multiply the given yards by 16 and divide
12,600X16=201,600;
the weight of 12,600 yards of 40-cut woolen yarn.
1
Thus, 201,600-f-12,000=16.8.
—12,600 yards of 40-cut woolen yarn weigh 16.8
The other known count
Cut.
for the given count of cotton yarn that 1 lb. contains."
of 40-cut woolen yarn=12,000 yards.
Amwer.
a
Yam.)
Cut.
similar to the one given for cotton yarn.
is
Example.— Find lb.
cut to 50 cut
(Cut System),
Finding the Weight in Ounces for a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count Figured by the "Cut" Basis.
This rule the result
lb.
3,600 3,900 4,200 4,500 4,800 5,100 5,400 5,700 6,000 6,300 6,600
12
300 600 900
I
2
Yards to
I
Woolen Yarns
oz.
number of yards of cotton yarn of number of yards of the known count
rule for ascertaining the weight in ounces for a is
as follows
:
Divide the given yards by the
required to balance one ounce.
—Find the weight 12,600 Answer. — 12,600 yards of 40-cut woolen
Example.
for
yards of
40-cut
woolen
yarn.
12,000-f-16=750
12,6OO--750=16.8.
Rule
for
oz.
Finding the Weight in Pounds of a Given Number of Yards of Woolen Yarn of a Known Count, Graded by the Cut Basis.
This rule
by the
yarn weigh 16.8
original
is
also similar to the
number of yards
result expresses the weight in
one previously given for cotton yarn.
for
the
Divide the given yards
given count of woolen yarn (cut basis) in
pounds, or fractions thereof.
1
lb.
The
10
—Find the weight 1,260,000 yards of 40-cut woolen yarn. Thus, 1,260,000--1 2,000=105. — 1,260,000 yards of 40-cut woolen yarn weigh 105
Example.
of
12,000 yards to Answe?'.
40-cut woolen
yarn=
1 lb.
lbs.
Grading of Double and Twist or more Ply Woolen Yarn.
Woolen yarns
are sometimes manufactured in double
and twist (c?461.5
'
'
33,600
—
76AV
cents.
yarn is composed of minor threads of unequal counts as well as of a ent price, we must find the cost of the compound yarn by If a 3-ply
differ-
—
Rule. Find average price and compound counts between any two minor threads given, and wards proceed in the same manner between the respective results and the third minor thread.
Example.
—Find
after-
pound of 3-ply fancy yarn composed of the following minor threads pound; 40's worsted costing |1.50 per pound and 30's worsted costing
cost per
60's worsted costing $2.00 per
;
$1.00 per pound. 60's at $2.00.
40's at $1.50
60 X 1 .50=90
J
70.00^ 1 00=1 .70.
40X2.00=80 100
170.00
$1.70 average price between 60's worsted at $2.00, and 40's at $1.50.-
60 X 40= 2,400 -^100 (60
+ 40)=24.
24's worsted
24's worsted at $1.70.
compound counts
AnMoer.
—The
Proo/.— 60's,
75.00^54=1.3888.
75.00
price for the 3-ply yarn given in the
40's
and 40's worsted thus
30's worsted at $1.00.
24X1.00=24.00 30X1.70=51.00 54
for 60's
example
is
$1.3888 or nearly $1.39.
and 30's worsted.
60--60=l
60—40=11 60^30=2^ 4|
60-f-4J=13|^'s worsted compound counts for 60's, 40's and 30's.
l^
worsted=13|X560=7,466| yards per pound.
60's
worsted=33,600 yards per lb. worsted=22,400 yards per lb. worsted^ 16,800 yards per lb.
40's 30's
at
$2.00
at
$1.50
at $ 1 .00
;
—
33,600:2.00:: 7,466|: x
2.00X7,4661
$0.4444
33,600 22,400: i.50
::
7,466|: x
1.50x7,466f
$0.5000
22,400 16,800:1.00:: 7,466f: x
Answer.
—The
If a 3-ply
prices, and
yarn
is
we must
Find the
$0.4444
16,800
Answer :—$1.3888 price as
found before ($1.38)
is correct.
composed of minor threads
find the cost per
their equivalent counts in one basis
To
1.00X7,4661
Mean
and
pound
of different materials as well as different compound yarn, reduce the different counts to
for the
by previously given
find the result
rule.
or Average Value of Yarns of Mixed Stocks.
In the manufacture of mixed yams wools of different price are frequently mixed together. ascertain the medium price of a mixture when the price and quantity of each ingredient are given, use
To
Rule.
—Divide
by the sum
the cost of all the ingredients
of the quantities mixed, the quotient will
be the average value.
Example.—¥md
the
mean or average value of the following wool mixture: 160 lbs. costing 75/ " 160 " 86/ " $1.10 40 " " 40 " 1.16
400
lbs. total
per lb. " " "
"
"
"
amount of wool used
in this lot.
75/X160 lbs.=$120.00 85/X160 lbs.= 136.00
X X
$1.10 $1.16
40 1bs.= 40 1bs.=
400
Answer.
—
$346.40 The value of the wool mixture
Example.—-Find the value per
lb. for
46.40
$346.40
lbs.
(Cost of all the Ingredients .)
44.00
(Sum of the
Quantities.)
400 is
86iV
per
lbs.
=$0,866
lb.
the following mixture of wool.
680 lbs. costing 66/ per lb. " 300 " 68/ " " « 20 " 98/ " « 1,000
lbs. in lot.
65/X680=$442.00
68/x300= 20=
98/ X
Answer.
—Wool mixture
204.00
$665.60--l,000=$0.6656
19.60
$665.60 in question
is
worth 66fA/ per
lb.
—
—
25
Another question frequently appearing Yarns " is
To Find
the Quantity of
In such a mixture the
in the
Each Kind
of
mixing of
Wool
Use
to
lots for the
in a
manufacture of " Mixed
Mixture of a Given Value.
on the kinds of wool used of the several prices or
total loss
qualities
must
equal the total gain.
—
Rule. Arrange the prices of the diiferent kinds of wool, we have at our disposal, in a vertical column with the mean price at the left. Next find the gain or loss on one unit of each take such au' additional portion of any as will make the losses balance the gains or vice versa. ;
—Two kinds of wool
Example.
mixed
to
56/ and
at respective values of
produce a mixture worth 60/.
Find
56+4X1 =4 63— 3Xli=4 Answer. —
63)^ per
pound
are required to be
quantities of each kind wanted. gain. loss.
of the wool costing 56/ and
1 part
"
"
"
"
63/ are required
for
2^ parts to produce a mixture of the required value of 60/.
Proof.—
1
lb.
H
"
@ 56/=56/ @ 63/=84/
21
140/
——
140X3 140-f-2J=140-j-l=
Example
—Three
required to be
mixed
-
^
=420-f-7=60/ average
different qualities of
to produce a
mixture per
at respective values
mixture worth 64/ per
64
Answer.
wool
price of
Find
lb.
70—6x1 =6 68—4X1 =4_
10/
loss.
60+4X21=
10/
gain.
—To produce mixture of a value of 64/ per
lb.,
1
part from the wool costing
1
part from the wool costing
lb.
of 60/, 68/ and 70/ per
lb. are
quantities of each kind required.
use
2| parts from the wool costing
70/ 68/ 60/
in
4|^ parts.
Proof.—
1
lb.
1
"
21
"
41
lbs.
@ 70/= 70/ @ 68/= 68/ @ 60/=150/ 288/
288-4-4.5=64/ average price of mixture per Example.
— Four
are required to be
lb.
wool at respective values of 80/, 85/, 96/ and 98/ per produce a mixture worth 92/. Find quantities of each kind required.
different qualities of
mixed
to
92
80+12x1 =12 85+ 7X1 =_7 96— 4X1 — 4 98— 6x21—15
19/
gain.
19/
loss.
lb.
——
26 Answer.
—To produce mixture of wool of
a value of
92/ use
1
part of the wool costing 80j^
1
part of the wool costing 85
1
part of the wool costing 92
2| parts of the wool costing 98 parts.
5^
Proof.—
1
lb.
1
lb.
1
lb.
21
lbs.
51
lbs.
@ @ @ @
80/=
=
80/
85
85
96
=
98
=245 506/
in laying out " wool-lots " is
Another question frequently arising
the Quantity of Each Kind to Use When the Quantity of One Kind, the Different Prices of Each Kind and the Prices of the Mixture, are Given.
Example. lbs. at
71/
96
the average price of mixture per lb.
506/-^5.5=92/ being
To Find
m
—What quantity of each kind of wool costing 60/, 80/ and 90/ must be mixed with 20 75/ per
so as to bring the mixture to a value of
/ 60
/
lb.
lbs.
+ 15X
1=15/
71+ 4X20=80
—
95/
gain.
95/
loss.
80— 5X 1— 5/ 90— 15X 6—90
— 28
Ansfwer.
—Use
part
1
or
lb.
20 parts or part
1
crib.
28 parts or 1
20
lb.
6
lbs.
28
Example. hand,
—Having
how many
lbs.
@ @ @ @
lb.
lbs.
1
of the wool costing 60/ " " " 71
parts or lbs.
6
Proof.—
lbs.
lbs. at
" "
"80 "90
Mixture so as
lbs.
60/=
" "
to
bring the price of the latter to 75/ per
60/
71 =1,420
80 90
= =
8
540
or
2,100/.
Hence 2,100/-^-28=75/ average price of mixture per lb.
four diiferent lots of wool at respective values of 70/, 74/,
of each kind must
we
use to
make up
a lot of
70+ 8X1 =8 74+ 4X1 =4 70
lb.
—
12/ gain.
82— 4Xli=6 84— 6X1 =6 12/
loss.
500
lbs. costing
82/ and 84/ on
us 78/ per
lb.
27
500-^41=1 Hi
]Xllli=llU
lbs.
1X11U=11U
"
lXllU=166f
"
1X11U=11H
"
500 Ansioer.
—We must
use
.
to
make up
U U
70 74 82 84
lbs.
"
of the "
166!
"
llli
"
11 11
@ @ @ @
lbs.
valued at 70/ per
lot
"
"
"
"
"
"
"
•
"
74 82 84
lb,
" " "
a lot of 500 lbs. at a value of 78/ per lb.
llliX70/=$77.77i
Proof.—
11UX74
=
82.221
166fX82 ==136.661
11UX84
=
92.331
$390.00— and 500
lbs. at
78/
= also $390.00.
Reed Calculations. The reed is named by numbers, the number in each case indicating how many splits are in each inch, Thus a number 8-reed means a reed with 8 splits in every inch over the required width. If we call for number 16|-reed, we want a reed having 16| splits in one inch, equal to 33 dents in every 2 inches over the entire width of the fabric. Whole numbers or half numbers alone are used for grading of reeds. four —Suppose we have a number warp 70 How many one inch ends — ends of warp Answer. X 4=36 9-reed,
Example. are in
are in full
?
if
X 70 2,520
how many
inches wide in reed ?
in
9
threads in one split or dent,
one inch.
width of warp in reed. ends in warp.
Rule for ascertaining the number of ends in the warp if the reed number, the threads Multiply the reed number by the per dent and the width of the warp in the reed are known threads per dent and multiply the result by the width of the warp in reed. :
Example.
—How many ends are
in the
warp
if using 13|-reed, 6 threads
per dent, 80 inches wide
in reed ?
Answer.
— 6,480 ends
131X6=81X80=6,480. are in warp.
Rule for ascertaining the reed number, if the number of ends in the warp and the width reed are known, the threads per dent, either given or to be selected, according to the fabric Divide the number of ends in the warp by the width in the reed, which gives the number of threads per inch divide this result again by the number of threads in one dent according to the weave
in the
:
;
or pattern required, the answer being the reed (number) required.
28 Example.
— 6,480 ends
in warp,
80 inches wide in
How many
ree5.
ends per inch and what reed
is
required if 6 ends per dent are to be used ?
6,480-^80=81 -4-6=131. Answer.
—81 ends per inch and 13^
the reed
is
number
required.
Rule for ascertaining the width of the warp in the reed if the reed number, the threads per dent, and the number of threads in the warp are known Divide the number of ends in the warp by the number of ends per inch, giving as the result the number of inches the warp will :
be in the reed.
Example. in a
number
— Find width
In reed for fabric
made with 3,600 ends
in
warp, reeded 3 threads per dent
12-reed.
12X3=36 3,600^36=100.
—The width of Example. — Find width Answer.
the fabric in reed
is
100
inches.
made with 4,752 ends
in reed for fabric
in warp, reeded
4 threads per
dent in a number 16|^-reed.
4,752--66=72
16|X4=66 Answer.
—The width of the
The number of ends Experience
is
fabric in reed
is
72 inches.
to put in one dent has to be regulated according to the fabric
The
the only guide for this.
The finer the reed, the smoother the goods, and with number of ends are not always used in each dent, but The same may be used with the average number of threads per dent.
into the fabric.
Example.
—"What
and the weave.
coarser the reed, to a certain extent, the easier the picks go
are the threads per inch ?
Reed number
perfect reeds, the less reed marks. in
such a case the preceding rules
20, using one dent, 4 ends
—one dent
5 ends.
(Number of reed.)
(Average threads per dent.)
=
4+5=9^2
— 90 threads per Example. —What are the threads per ends — dent, 3 ends— 6 ends. Answer.
X
4J
Eeed number
inch?
=16
3+4+3+6 An^er.
—72 threads per
Sometimes
it
—
—
1
dent, 4
—44 Example. —What
72
fraction.
To
sum of
the contents of the dents
by the dents per
set.
inch,
warp reeded
as follows in
number 12-reed
:
1 dent, 5
threads.
1
3+3+5=11X12=132^-3=44.
threads per inch.
1 dent,
Answer.
=
inch.
—What are the threads per — dent, 3
1 dent, 3 threads
—
reed.)
18
happens that the average number of threads includes an inconvenient
Answer.
threads
X
4
-5-
and then divide by the dents per Example.
(Number of
(Average thread per dent.)
avoid a calculation with this fraction, multiply the
4
18, using 1 dent, 3 ends
1 dent,
(Threads in four dents.)
threads
90
inch.
1
inch,
-=
20
are the threads per inch,
—
4 threads
—65 threads per
1
warp reeded
as follows in a
dent 5 threads.
4+4+5=13X16=195^-3=65 inch.
number 15-reed:
—
1 dent,
29
Warp TO FIND WEIGHT OF WARP
Calculations.
NUMBER OF
IF
ENDS, COUNTS AND LENGTH
ARE GIVEN. Multiply number of ends in the width of the cloth by yards in length (dressed), and divide pro-
duct by the number of yards of the given count per pound.
Example.
— Cotton
Yarn.
Find weight of warp, 50 yards
long,
2,
800 ends,
single 40's cotton in
warp. 2,800 X 50=140,000 yards.
40 X 840=33,600 yards per
lb. in
40's cotton.
140,000-^-33,600=4i
— The weight of the warp in the present example 4i Find weight of warp, 40 J^xample. — Woolen Yarn (run system). Answer.
lbs.
is
yards long, 3,600 ends, 4^-
run woolen yarn.
3,600X40=144,000 yards. Answer. The weight of the warp
—
— Woolen
Example
Yarn
4i-run= 7,200 in present
example
144,000^7,200=20.
yards. is
20
lbs.
Find weight of warp, 45 yards
(cut system).
long, 4,800 ends, 32-cut
woolen yarn.
4,800X45=216,000
—The weight o^ Example. — Worsted Yarn. Answer.
the
2/60's
Answer.
worsted=l 6,800
—The weight of
warp
in the present
example
is 22|^ lbs.
Find weight of warp, 60 yards
6,000X60=360,000
yards.
the
216,000--9,600=22i
32-cut=9,600 yards.
yards.
warp
in present
example
is
long, 6,000 ends, 2/60's worsted yarn.
360,000^16,800=21f.
yards.
2I7
lbs.
If two or more different kinds of yarn are used, ascertain number of threads kind by proportion, and solve answer (for each kind) by previously given rule.
Example.
—Find weight of warp, 50 yards Dressed.
warp
long, 6,000 ends.
— 2 ends 1
in
2/60's worsted.
end 2/50's cotton.
3 ends in repeat.
6,000^3=2,000
2,000X2=4,000 ends 2,000X1=2,000 ends
2/60's worsted in warp. 2/50's cotton in warp.
6,000, complete
4,000X50=200,000 2,000X50=100,000 Answer.
yards.
—The weights of
the
number of ends
2/60's
worsted=l 6,800 yards.
2/50's
cotton=21,000 yards.
warp
in present
example are
in warp.
200,000^16,800=1111. 100,000^21,000=41!
:
lliflbs. of 2/60's worsted. 4M " " 2/50's cotton.
16M lbs.=16|
lbs. total
weight of both kinds of yarn.
for each
—
:
30 Example.
— Find weight of warp
for each
kind of yarn separately in the following example
Number
Lengths of warp 50 yards. Dressing.
— 4 ends
of ends 4,800.
4
"
4-run woolen yarn " 4 a
4
"
4
U
4
"
4
a
i(
"
black
4
((
u
"
olive
2
"
4
(C
u
"
blue
2
"
4
•
)
(.
Width of) fabric in reed.
X
60
Yds
(
=
70
(
)
j
Lbs. of filling
(
on hand.
M
Oz. in i lb
\
\
X
> J
400
-H-
92
16
=]0J oz., weight of filling wanted per yard cloth woven.
M Total amount Oz of of H yard of = 1,472 10.5
filling in
j
)
){
oz.
i
|
cloth,
j
=140.19
yards.
Filling in hand will Weave 140 yards (140.19) of cloth.
Answer.
lbs.
or yards per oz
i
[•
4,200
— Example. — Woolen
C6,4oo-f-i6-)
)
for cloth.
yard
i
(
)
of filling
wanted
V
•
X
84
Yds. of filling
(
wanted
\
>•
-j
i
(
yard
=
72,
I
cloth.
(
Lbs. of filling
\
on hand.
M
f
Picks]
f
N
per
Width of]
X
70
yd. of
i
X
Filling
40's cotton filling in a fabric, r
< [
Width of]
Picks] per V
f
inch,
iin reed
60
}
fabric
X
J
\
—
will
[ i
wanted for yard of cloth.
yards.
630 =6.888 oz,,weight of filling wanted per yard cloth woven. )
f
f
\
Total amount 1
ofoz
=
16
832
j
f
1
Oz. of filling in 1 yard of cloth
)
f
=120.79
6.888
-J-
yards.
weave 120 yards (1201) of cloth.
Lbs. of filling
]
f 33,600-^-16
J
[
M
or yards
per
H-
1,800 "I
j
Oz
in
/(
i lb.
18
X
16
hand
will
oz.
2,100
on hand.
Filling on
=66f
Find number of yards of cloth we can weave with 18 lbs. of single which is set 30 inches in reed and for which we use 60 picks per inch.
Yds. of filling
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
=2 ends. =1 end.
-
_
-
-
-
=
_
_
-
-
\ end.
In pattern 80 ends. Price of the 5-run in twist,
96 cents per
warp yarn, 96
Price of the 5-run woolen yarn (soft-twist) as used
—40 ends of 2-ply 4-run yarn each 4 ends per —The same arrangement as the warp, ouly using 5|-run yarn
Selvage. Filling.
cents per lb.
Price of the spun-silk as used in twist, $5.60 per lb.
lb.
listing
for
dent.
side,
Price of yarn, 50 cents.
in place of the 5-run.
same material for both minor threads as in warp. 60 picks per inch. yarn, 85 cents. Loss in length of fabric at finishing (fulling), 6 per cent.
twist use the filling
Warp,
r.
T
,032 ends.
f
I
^8
5-run
^
^^.^^
80 ends in
4,032--80=50
repeats plus
32 ends.
repeat.
50X78^3,900-1-32=3,932 ends of 5-run
50X2=100
For
Price of the 5|-run
ends twist.
:
49 (Ends in warp.)
(Yards long.)
X
3,932
(Yards wanted.)
=
50
(5X1,600)
-
196,600
8,000 =24,575 lbs.@96/=$23.592,priceof5-run warp.
100 ends of twistX50 yards (dressed)=5,000 yards,
Take-up of silk (during twisting) 12 per
Thus
cent.
total length :
(100 88 :
:
:
of twist yarn wanted.
x 5,00O)=5,681.81 yards of 30's :
spun silk are wanted.
Take-up of wool (during twisting) 3 per
Thus (100 97
cent.
:
:
:
:
x 5,000)= 5, 154.64 yards of 5-run :
woolen yarn are wanted. (30X840) (Weight wanted.) 5,681.81
^
5,154 64
-
25,200
= 0.2254
(5X1,600)
8,000
(Price per lb.)
X
lbs.
(Weight wanted.)
=
0.6443
$1,262, price of silk yarn used in twist for warp.
(Price per lb.)
X
lbs.
=
$5.60
=$0,618,
96/
price of the 5-run
$23,592 cost of 5-run warp yarn. 1.262 " " 30's spun silk \. " " 5-run soft twist / 0.618
minor yarn for
twist.
,
$25,472, total cost of warp.
Selvage.— 80 ends X 50 yards dressed=4,000 yards of yarn--8,200
@ 50/ =
1| lbs
621/, price of selvage yarn
(2
X 1,600) =1^
lbs.
u.^ed,
(Ends in warp.) (14X4)
Filling.—4,032
=
56
72 inches, width of cloth in
80 (ends selvage) --4 (ends per dent) 72
f
Width of 1 cloth.
j
/
X
73f
j
Picks per inch.
inches,,
width of selvage.
"
.
)
)
514
60
dents-^14=lf
width of cloth, " " selvage,
inches,
H \
=20
reed.
'^^
— X45 |—^=1^
30 840
=-y-x60=-^^
I
)
per cent, take
up V
= 198,257|,
number of yards of 198,2571^40=4,956.43 X
1=
4,956.43 yards of twist. l " " 5i-run. /^^''"^
Thus
lb.
193,300^8,800=2111
lbs.
:
@ 85/=$18.671, price of the 5i-run
^^^^ take-up 12 per cent., thus Twist yarn. / IWool " " " 3 " 30's
:
(100:88
::
lb.
5,632-25,200=0.2235
weight of silk wanted
5-run woolen yarn=8,000 yards per
5,109^-8,000=0.6386
lbs.,
Hence
lb.
filling.
x:4,956.43)=5,632H yards are wanted.
(100:97 ::x:4,956.43)=5,109i?
spun silk=25,200 yards per lbs.,
wanted.
wanted.
and 4,956.43X39=193,300.77
5|-ruu=8,800 yards per
filling
total
"
:
@ $5.60=$1.251, price of
silk.
Hence
weight of woolen yarn
$18,671 cost of 5J-run
@ 96/=61.3/, price filling.
1.251
"
" 30's spun
0.613
"
" 5-run soft twist,
$20,535, total cost of
silk.
filling.
\. j
,
.
of the woolen yarn.
:
60 yards, woven length of cloth. " 2.7 (6 per cent, shrinkage in ful ing).
45
$25,472, cost of warp. " selvage. 0.625, " 20.535,
"
"
filling.
when
42.3 yards, length of cloth
$46,632, total
finished.
cost.
46.632-4-42.3=1.124
Answer.—A. The Answer.
—B.
The
total cost
of materials used are $46,632 ($46.64) and
cost of the
same per finished yard
is
$1,124 ($1.13.)
Fancy Cotton Dress Goods. (27 inches finished width.)
Reed, 38X2.
2,204 ends in warp.
Length of cloth from loom, 80 yards. Dressing
Dressing 1
1
end dark blue (ground) end white end light blue
X4=
= = 2 ends " " = (ground) end " = tan ends 8 a — end flesh " = 2 ends = (ground) end " = end white " = 2 ends " = (ground) end end dark blue = }x4= 1
"
(pile)
1
((
1
(pile)
1
8 ends
2 ends
8 ends
1
1
end white end maroon
2 cuds 1
"
end
.
a
2 ends
end white
2 ends
"
end
"
1
1
end white
2/24's
2/30's
1
1/20's
8 ends tan
end
1
2/24's
2 ends 1
2/30's
1
end
2/30's
1
2/24's
2 ends
end
8 ends
2/30's 1/20's
1
end
2/30's
2 ends
2/24's
(ground)
=
1
=
8 ends
end
end
((
=
1
(pile)
=
2 ends
=
1
end
=24 ends
2/30's 1/20's
2/30's
2/24's
2/30's 1/20's
end
"
(pile)
2 ends 1
Price of
warp yarns (including
end
2/30's 1/20's
1
end
2/30's
1
end
2/30's
" " (ground) " end dark blue " 1 end white " " 1 end " (pile) 2 ends " (ground) 1 end " 8 ends tan " 1 end flesh (pile) 2 ends " " (ground) 1 end " 24 ends tan
2 ends
2/24's
1 end
2/30's
8 ends
l/20'8
:
1 end
2/30's
:
2 ends 2/24's
end
}x4=
:
1 end
:
8 ends
1/20's
:
1 end
2/30's
:
2 ends
2/24't
=
1 end
=24 ends
1/20's ground,
30
cents.
38
cents.
2/24's pile,
36
2/30's
2/30's
1/20's
152 ends.
cent.
cent.
coloring or bleaching) as to their respective counts, are
2/30's ground,
2/30's
"
1
during weaving, 70 per
end
(ground)
Take-up of ground-warps during weaving, 8 per of pile-warp
2/30's
2/24's
2 ends 2/24's
(pile)
Repeat of pattern,
Take-up
1/20's
8 ends 1
"
end
(ground)
end light blue " " (pile)
1
8 ends 1
end white
end
1
X4=
"
1
2/30's
=
24 ends tan
end dark blue (ground)
end maroon " 2 ends
2/30's
=
(ground)
1
1
2 ends
—continued.
1/20's
(pile)
8 ends tan 1
end
1
1 1
end
1
1
(pile)
end
1
:
:
cents.
Selvage.— 10 two-ply ends of 2/20's white cotton for each Price of yarn, 22 cents. take up during weaving.
side.
2 double ends per dent.
8 per cent,
:
51 Filling.
— 78 picks per
inch.
Arrangement of
colors.
—
4 picks white " tan
8
Counts for Price of
Length of
the filling 1/20's cotton.
all
the filling yarn, inclusive of coloring
all
from loom to equal length
cloth
and bleaching, 28
cents.
finished.
4
maroon
8
tan
6
white
8
tan
4
light blue
28
tan
70 picks in repeat.
Warp.— 1/20's ground=112
= =
"
2/30's
2/24's pile
ends in one pattern " " " " « " " 20 "
20
152 ends in one repeat of pattern.
=14i
2,204 (ends in warp) h-152 (repeat of pattern)
repeats of pattern in width of fabric.
Pattern, with reference as to counts, repeats twice in one repeat of pattern.
fTake-updur-l ^
I
•
Yards of yarn wanted per ^
f
!
ing
I
2 X 141=1,624 ends of 1 /20's cotton? 20X14J= 290 " " 2/30's « 20X141= 290 " " 2/24's " - -70
11
(Yards of yam wanted
Yards per
)
for the entire piece.
"
of
— —
yarn
wanted
cloth
X X X
1,765.2174
315.2174 966.6666
]
1
for the entire piece. J
>
woven.
Yards of y ar n wanted for the
=
80
=
—29
inches,
"
80
=
77,333.328
I o^f^cfoth I woven.
2,282.5263 X Selvage.
80
—10
!.
^
of the yarn per lb.
Value of yarn
2.0013
X X
38
0.76
10,080
7.6719
X
36
2.76
30/
$2.52
H
width of cloth in reed.
—x 556
78) =2,282.5263 yards of filling per yard cloth woven.
Us.
)
20X840
of yarn wanted.
{
10.8691
X
of yarn per lb. | j
\ Price
f
=
182,602.1040 yds.
ends,
warp yarn.
width of fabric in reed. " selvage in reed. "
T«tal yards of filling wanted.
\
"
Price
|-
8.4058
29i^? inches, total
29AX 78= (
>
141,217.392 yds. 25,217.392 "
6.04, price of Filling.
|
entire piece.
80
2,600
J
77,333.328
"
|
16,800
"
25,217.392
"
fivbs.
lb. [
141,217.392 yards.
per cent.
" of fLength ^
!
yard cloth woven.
ing.
Thus
-f-'
=
16,800
8 per cent, take-up (100: 92
::
J
{_
28/
^ajue ^of ing yarn. J.04
x:40) required 43.478 yards yarn per yard
cloth woven.
Length of cloth woven.
43.478 yards
X
80
)
f Yards
) \ )
[
=^
of selvage T for the \
f
wanted
entire piece.
J
3,478,24 yards
10X140
(,
^
8,400
Total
r
Price
1
r
weight of
\
selvage.
0,414
lbs.
X
1
22/=9/,
total price
of selvage.
—
52 ^6.04 cost of warp,
3.04
"
"
filling,
0.91
"
"
selvage,
9.99^80=12.487.
$9.99, total cost.
Answer. — A. Answer. — B.
The
total cost
The value of
of materials used in fabric
is
$9.99, and
this stock, per finished yard, is
Worsted
12.487 cents, practically 12^ cents.
Suiting.
Reed,
3,968 ends 2/32's worsted. Length of warp dressed, 45 yards. Arrangement of dressing. 4 ends black,
16X4.
—
4 ends brown, 4 ends black,
4 ends indigo
blue.
16 ends in repeat. Price of yarn in the white, (scoured) $1.05 per lb.
Allowance for waste during spooling, dressing and weaving, 5 per 30 double ends of 2/30's white worsted for each
Selvage.
per
lb.,
75
side,
cent.
4 double ends per dent.
Price,
cents.
Filling.
—66
Same arrangement of
picks, 2/32's worsted.
colors as in warp.
Price of yarn in the
white, (scoured) 95 cents.
Allowance for waste during spooling and weaving, 6 per cent. Length of fabric from loom, 40 yards. Length of fabric finished, 39^ yards. Cost of coloring yarn, black, 6 cents per lb. ; brown, 6 cents per lb. ; indigo blue, 15 cents per
lb.
weight when colored.)
to equal Cost of finishing, 12 cents per yard, finished. Cost of weaving, 16 cents per yard, from loom. General mill expenses, 10 cents per yard, finished cloth.
(Weight of yarn before coloring
its
Warp. Yards 1 f Idressed.l
(Ends)
3^968
19.928
X -f-
4
45
=
=
4.982
(
j
4.982
Total
3
1
(16X560)
yards. |
=
8,960
178,560
X X
(Lbs.)
= =
1
3
4.982 14.946
lbs.
"
]
Price
per
)
lb. f
(Cost.)
= $20.9244 blue) (indigo = .7473 15^ @ .8967 " 6/ (black and brown) = 19.928
X
$1.05
$22.5684 6 per cent, allowance for waste,
1.1284
Total cost of warp yarn, $23.6968
Selvage.— 60 double ends
2/30's worsted
=
20 single ends
120x45=6,400-^8,400=11= A lb. @
2/30's.
75/=48.214/
5 per cent, allowance for waste,
2.410
Cost of selvage, $0,562 Filling.
(Ends
—Reed, 16X4=64 warp threads per
3^968
inch.
(Ends per inch.)
in full warp. -f-
64
=62
inches, 15
62H
((
width of cloth
in reed.
width of selvage (60h-4=15 dents, reed 16=if inch).
inches, total
width of fabric (including selvage) in
reed.
53 (
Width
)
j
{
in reed.
\
(
Picks per inch,
X
62tI
j
j
|
Yards of filling wanted per yard of cloth woven,
)
=
66
"I
j
J
|
Yards from loom.
X
4,153|
)
)
=166,155 yards of filling wanted
40
in cloth.
9,969 yards, 6 per cent, allowance for
-|-
[waste.
176,124 yards, (Total length.)
(15
X 560
=
lbs.
19.6567-^4=4.9141X1= 4.9141 4.9141X3=14.7426
lbs.
8,960
yarn. @ 95^ =$18.6739, cost of " " = indigo blue color. 0.7371, @ 15 " " black and brown colors. 6 = 0.8845,
lbs.
$20.2955, total cost of
X
6/=$6.40, cost of weaving. 391x12 =$4.71, " " finishing. 39 J X 10 =$3.93, general mill expenses (ofiice
40
amount of filling wanted.
filling
19.6567
176,124
total
(Total weight.)
)
filling
yam.
1
insurance, watchmen, mechanics, per cent, on capital, etc.)
$23.70 cost of warp. 0.51 " " selvage. 20.30 " " filling.
$59.55-v-39i=$1.517.
6.40
"
" weaving.
4.71
"
" finishing.
3.93 general mill expenses.
$59.55
—A. $59.55, Answer. — B. $1.52,
total cost of the fabric.
Ansioer,
cost of fabric per finished yard.
Beaver Overcoating.
{Piece-dyed.)
Reed, 10X6. 42 yards long, dressed. Price of yarn per lb., $1.25. 2 ends face, 5J-run. " " " " " .84. 1 end back, 5-run
4,800 ends in warp.
Arrangement of dressing.
—
3 ends in repeat. Filling.
—2 picks
face, 5|^-run.
Price of yarn per
"
1 pick back, l|-run.
"
"
"
lb.,
$1.18.
"
.40.
3 picks in repeat.
80 picks per
16 cents for weaving. 4 " general weave room expenses. inch.
20 cents per yard from loom for weaving. Selvage.
—40 ends of 2-run
listing
yarn (each
side).
Price,
50 cents per
lb.
3 ends per dent
(outside dent 4).
Take-up of warp during weaving, 11 per per cent.
cent.
Flocks used during fulling process, 20
25 cents per yard, finished.
Take-up of cloth during
lbs. at
8 cents per
lb.
finishing (fulling), 10
Cost of finishing and dy ing,
General mill expenses, 10 cents per yard, finished.
Warp.— 4,800^3=1,600. (Yards wanted.)
1,600X2=3,200 ends 5i-runX42= 1,600X1=1,600 ends 5-run X42=
134,400 67,200
--8,800=15A
lbs.
^8,000=
lbs.
8 f
@ $1.25=$19.09. @ .84= 7.06.
Cost of warp, $26.15.
54 (Yards wanted.)
Selvage.— 80 ends 2-run X 42= Filling.
3,360
--3,200=1.05 lbs.
@ 50/=52i^ (53/), cost of selvage.
—Reed, 10X6=60 ends per inch and
4,800^60=80
inches,
"
2.6
width of cloth in reed. " selvage (80^3=26 dents=2.6 inches). "
82.6 inches, total width.
82.6X 80=6,608 yards
(total
amount of
filling
per yard woven).
6,608 ^3=2,202f and 2,202f X 2=4,405 J yards face filling. 2,202|Xl=2,202f " backing. 1 1
per cent, take-up of warp during weaving.
100:89
42 :x=89X 42=3,738^100=37.38 yards, woven length.
::
Hence: 4,4051X37.38=164,671.35 yards 5i-run=18.712 2,202f X37.38=
"
82,335.67
lbs.
"
If " =29.456
@ $1.18=$22.10 @ .40= 11.78
Cost of filling, $33.88 37.38
X20/=$7.47,
10 per
cost of weaving.
Hence :x=(90X37.38=)3,360.20^100=33.64
shrinkage of cloth during finishing.
cent,
100:90
::
37.38
126.15 cost of warp. .53 " " selvage. 33.88 " " filling. 7.47
"
" weaving.
" finishing.
:
yards, finished length
33.64 X25/=$8.41 cost of finishing.
33.64X10
X
20
8.41
"
3.37
"
" general expenses.
1.60
"
" flocks.
8
= =
3.37 general mill expenses.
1.60 cost of flocks.
81.41^33.64=2.42.
.41
—A. Answer. — B.
Answer,
$81.41, total cost of the fabric.
$ 2.42, cost of fabric per yard, finished.
Ingrain Carpet.
832 ends Finished
[Extra fine ; Cotton Chain, Worsted
in warp, 2/14's cotton, 5 per cent, take-up
length of fabric,
by weaving and shrinkage
17 / per
Cost of color,
lb.
" "
5
Winding and beaming, 2|
(average price).
24|j^, price
up
—Four ends of
4/10's cotton
on each
side.
of warp yarn per
Price,
20 cents per
lb.
lb.
on beam.
(same amount o^ take-
as warp). Filling.
— 10
Yarn used
:
pair, (in finished fabric)
One-half the amount
36 inches, width of fabric in loom.
16 J cents per lb. in the grease, or 26 J cents per lb. dark colors (48 yards per oz. in the grease). lb.
Price, (50 yards per oz. in the grease). One-half the amount 5/8's scoured and colored.
5/8's single, light colors
single,
per
in finishing, etc.
60 yards. Cost of yarn,
Selvage.
Filling)
Price,
12 cents per
lb. in
the grease, or 20 cents
scoured and colored.
Loss (average) of weight for
filling in
in winding and weaving, 15 per cent.
scouring and dyeing, 15 per cent.
Waste of
filling (average)
:
'
55
Length of
yarn to remain uniform from the grease to colored. Weaving and weave-room General mill expenses, 5 cents per yard finished fabric.
tlie
expenses, 10 cents per yard finished fabric.
^arp.
— 832 ends
60 yards finished length, 24^ cents per lb. x:832=83,200-^-95=875tIx60=52,547.37 yards, total amount of yarn wanted. 2/l4's cotton, 5 per cent, take-up,
100:95 :: 2/14's=5,880 yards per lb. Hence 52,547.37^5,880=8.9536 lbs., total weight of yarn wanted. 24i/=|2.1936 (=$2.20) cost of warp-yarn. 8.9536 lbs. :
@
Selvage.— 4 X 2=8 X 60=480. 100: 95 X :: 480=48,000-^-95=505.26 yards, total length of selvage yarn wanted. 4/10's=2,100 yards per lb. Hence 505.26-=-2,100=0.24 lbs., total weight. :
:
0.24
lbs.
— 20 picks per inch
Filling.
@
20^=4.tV (=5/)
of selvage.
36 inches, width of
in finished fabric.
36X60=2,160X20=43,200
cost
yards, total
fabric.
amount wanted
in fabric.
21,600 yards light colored yarn, at 50 yards per oz. in the grease. 21,600 yards dark colored yarn, at 48 yards per oz. in the grease.
50X16=800
yards per
21,600^800=27 100:85
::
= 85X27 =22.95
27: x
48
lb. for light colors. lbs.,
X 16=768
22.95 lbs.@26i^=$6.082, cost of light colored
100:85
::
23.9 lbs.
28.12:x=
85
X
28 12 '
lbs.,
=23.90
lb. for
dark
colors.
weight of yarn scoured and colored.
lbs.,
21,600^768=28.12
yards per
weight in the grease.
filling
used in
fabric.
weight in the grease.
lbs.,
@ 20/=$4.78, cost of dark colored
weight of yarn scoured and colored. filling
used in fabric.
$ 6.082 light colored. " 4.780 dark $10,862, total value of
filling
used in fabric, subjected to 15 percent, waste of material in winding
Hence
and weaving.
100:85
::
x:
10.86=
^^^
"*^^'^^'^
=12.776, cost of filling, including of waste made in windingand weaving.
85 $ 2.194
Cost of warp,
0.048
Cost of selvage, Cost of
12.776
filling,
Weaving and weaveroom
expenses,
General mill expenses,
24.01 H-60=0.40
X 10 cents) yards X 5 cents)
6.000
(60 yards
3.000
(60
$24,018 .
—A. Answer. —B. Answer.
$24.02, total cost of the fabric.
40
cents, cost
of fabric per yard finished.
Ingrain Carpet.
(Extra Super
;
Worsted Chain.)
1,072 ends in warp, 2/1 4's worsted, 5 per cent, take up by weaving and shrinkage in finishing, etc Price of yarn, including coloring (average) and winding and beaming, 52J cents per lb. Selvage,
— Four ends of
Filling.
— 13 pair
on each side. 20 cents per lb. (same amount of take up as warp).
4/1 0's cotton
Price,
(in finished fabric)
36 inches, width of fabric in loom.
56
Arrangement.
—
1 pick,
double per lb.
yarn (60 yards per oz. in the grease.) Price, 22 cents in the grease, or 33 cents per lb. scoured and dyed. reel
yards per
1 pick, 6/8's single, light color (50
oz.
in the grease).
cents per lb. in the grease, or 26 J cents per lb. scoured 1 pick, 1
pick
double 5/8's,
Price 16J
and dyed.
reel (as before).
single
dark color (48 yards per oz. in the grease). Price, 12 20 cents per lb. scoured and dyed.
cents per lb. in the grease, or
Loss of weight (average) for filling. in scouring and dyeing, 121 per cent. Waste (average) of No shrinkage for yarn during scouring and coloring. filling in, winding and weaving, 12^ per cent. General mill expenses, 6 cents per finished yard. per 12 cents expenses, Weaving and weaveroom finished yard. Price, 52| cents per lb. ends, 2/14's worsted, 5 per cent, shrinkage. x 1,072=107,200^95=1,128.421 X 60=67,705.26 yards, total amount of warp yarn wanted. 2/14's=3,920 yards per lb. Hence: 67,705.26^3,920=17.27 lbs., total weight. 17.27 lbs.@52i/=$9.066, value of warp yarn.
Warp.— 1,072 100:95
::
:
— (The same — 26 36
as in previously given
Selvage. Filling.
picks,
inches,
60 yards.
26X36X60=56,160
Example) 5
Hence amount of
yards, total
cents.
filling
wanted
in fabric.
Hence 1 4,040 X 2=28,080 yards of double reel yarn@33/ per lb. " 5/8's single light color@26i^ per lb. 14,040X1=14,040 " per lb. " " 5/8's single dark color@20 14,040 X1=14,040 of double reel. vahie /=$9.652, 33 lbs. 60 X 16=960 yards per lb. and 28,080^-960=29^ 26i 5/8's light color. value of =$4.65, 50X16=800 yards per lb. and 14.040--800=17.55 lbs. 5/8's dark color. of value 20 =$3,656, 48X16=768 yards per lb. and 14,040-^-768=18.28 lbs. 56,160-^-4=14,040.
@ @ @
$9,652 value of double reel. " 5/8's light color. 4.650 "
3.656
5/8's
$17,958, total value of
100:87.5
::
x
:
dark
color.
filling
used in carpet (subject to 12| per cent, waste in winding and weaving).
17.958=l,795.8-^87.5=$20.523,
cost of all the filling in fabric
and waste.
loss of mafilling, may be obtained by calculating the 13^ per cent, during winding and weaving to the amount of filling wanted in the fabric, as follows 56,160 yards total amount of filling wanted. Thus
Memo—The same answer as to the cost of terial
:
:
100:87.5:: x
:
56,160=5,616,000^87.5=64,182.856^4=16,045.714.
16,045.714X2=32,091.428 --960=33.428X33 =$11,031 16,045.714--800=20.057X26.5= 5.315
16,045.714^768=20.891X20
=
4.178 $20,523, being the same answer as before.
Cost of warp, Cost of selvage,
Cost of
filling,
$ 9.066 0.048
20.523
40.437^60=0.67.
Weaving and weave-) room expenses, j
7.20O (60 yards
General mill expenses,
3.600
@ 12f) (60 yards @ 6/.)
$40,437
—A. Answer. — B.
Answer.
$40,44, total cost of fabric.
67/, cost of fabric per yard, finished.
STRUCTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS To
produce a perfect fabric the following points must be taken Into consideration
of wear that the fabric will be subject tion, the size
and