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E Y E W I T N E S S T R AV E L
TOP
PARIS MIKE GERRARD & DONNA DAILEY
Top 10 Paris Highlights
The Top 10 of Everything
Welcome to Paris ........................... 5 Exploring Paris............................... 6 Paris Highlights ........................... 10 Musée du Louvre ......................... 12 Musée d’Orsay ............................. 16 Notre-Dame ................................. 20 Eiffel Tower................................... 24 Sacré-Coeur ................................. 26 Arc de Triomphe .......................... 30 Centre Georges Pompidou.......... 32 The Panthéon ............................... 34 Sainte-Chapelle ........................... 36 Hôtel des Invalides....................... 38
Historical Events in Paris ............ 42 Historical Novels Set in Paris...... 44 Historic Buildings......................... 46 Places of Worship ........................ 48 Museums...................................... 50 Art Galleries ................................. 52 Riverfront Sights .......................... 54 Parks and Gardens ...................... 56 Off the Beaten Track.................... 58 Children’s Attractions .................. 60 Entertainment Venues................. 64 Fine Dining ................................... 66 Cafés and Bars............................. 68 Shops and Markets...................... 70 Paris for Free ............................... 72 Festivals and Events .................... 74
CONTENTS
Paris Area by Area
Streetsmart
Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis ...... 78 Beaubourg and Les Halles.......... 84 Marais and the Bastille................ 92 Tuileries and Opéra Quarters....102 Champs-Elysées Quarter..........110 Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters .............118 St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ...........124 Jardin des Plantes Quarter .......134 Chaillot Quarter..........................140 Montmartre and Pigalle ............146 Greater Paris ..............................154
Getting To and Around Paris .....164 Practical Information .................166 Places to Stay .............................172
Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. Front cover and spine Eiffel Tower, illuminated Back cover Avenue of trees in autumn leading to the Musée du Louvre Title page Giant flag flies in the middle of the Arc de Triomphe
General Index .............................180 Acknowledgments .....................188 Phrase Book...............................190
The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked annually. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email [email protected].
Top 10 Paris ❮❮ 5
Welcome to
Paris
Paris, City of Light. City of romance and revolution. A heady mix of café philosophers and Coco Chanel couture. A foodie paradise. A culture-lover’s dream. The focus of a thousand iconic movie images. Paris is all these things and more… so who could deny that it’s Europe’s most magical destination? With Eyewitness Top 10 Paris, it’s yours to explore. We love Paris: its culture, its charm, its je ne sais quoi. What could be better than exploring the chic shops of the Marais district or sniffing out the best cheeses in rue Montorgeuil’s mouthwatering market; wandering through village-like Montmartre or browsing the bookstalls of the Latin Quarter; taking in a late-night cabaret show or strolling boulevard St-Germain for an early morning coffee at Café de Flore in the footsteps of Hemingway and Picasso? And what could be more fun than hopping on a Vélib’ bike and cycling along the Seine from the Eiffel Tower to Notre-Dame? Paris is a city made for strolling, along its leafy boulevards and through its parks, against a backdrop of elegant Haussmann buildings and soaring contemporary structures. There’s history in these cobblestoned streets, but Paris is also a striking 21st-century city, where modern dancers perform in the ornate Opéra Garnier, and a new generation of acclaimed chefs is experimenting and building upon Paris’ reputation for gastronomic excellence. Whether you’re coming for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide brings together the best of everything the city has to offer, from the world-famous glories of the Louvre to the hidden delights of pretty Canal St-Martin. The guide gives you tips throughout, from seeking out what’s free to avoiding the crowds, plus 11 easy-to-follow itineraries, designed to help you visit a clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography and detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Paris.
Top then clockwise: Musée du Louvre, Sacré-Coeur, Versailles gardens, Centre Georges Pompidou, view from Pont Alexandre III, Galeries Lafayette interior, Moulin Rouge
6 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris
Exploring Paris Paris has an inexhaustible wealth of things to see and do. Here are some ideas for how to make the most of your time. The city is relatively compact, so you should O NC EAU M OMNC EAU be able to do most of your sightseeing on foot, and you’re never far from Avenue Avenue desdes ArcArc de de a metro station. Champs-Elysées Champs-Elysées Triomphe Triomphe
Opéra National Opéra National de Paris Garnier de Paris Garnier Place Place Vendôme Vendôme
C HAILLO CHAILLO T T Pont de de Pont l’Alma l’Alma e e in in Se Se
Orangerie Orangerie
INVALIDES INVALIDES
Musée Musée d’Orsay d’Orsay
Eiffel Eiffel Tower Tower Hôtel Hôtel desdes Invalides Invalides 0 metres 0 metres 0 yards 0 yards
Day 1
MORNING
Cross Pont Neuf (see p80) over the River Seine to the Ile de la Cité (see pp78–81) and visit the magnificent cathedral of Notre-Dame (see pp20– 23) or lovely Sainte-Chapelle (see pp36–7). Continue south into the lively Latin Quarter (see pp124–7) and pause for lunch in a classic Left Bank bistro (see p133).
S T S- T GE RAIN M AI N GERM
800800 800800
Musée d’Orsay is housed in a former railway station.
Two Days in Paris
Jardin desdes Jardin Tuileries Tuileries
Key Two-day itinerary Four-day itinerary
Day 2
MORNING
Take in the views from atop the Arc de Triomphe (see pp30–31), then stroll the lively Champs-Elysées (see p111) and leafy Tuileries (see p103) to the Louvre (closed Tue; see pp12–15). AFTERNOON
Explore the hip Marais (see pp92–5), stopping en route at the Pompidou Centre (closed Tue; see pp32–3). Take a metro to Montmartre (see pp146–9) and walk up to Sacré-Coeur (see pp26–7) for panoramic sunset views.
AFTERNOON
Meander through stylish StGermain-des-Prés (see pp124–7) to the Musée d’Orsay (closed Mon; see pp16–19) and admire its collection of Impressionist paintings. From here it’s a short walk to Les Invalides (see pp38–9) and the Eiffel Tower (see pp24–5), stunningly lit up at night.
Four Days in Paris Day 1
MORNING
Visit Montmartre’s dazzling SacréCoeur (see pp26–7), then head down through Pigalle (see pp146–9) to the
Exploring Paris ❮❮ 7 MONTMARTRE MONTMARTRE Sacré-Coeur Sacré-Coeur Pigalle Pigalle
ME TR ME O LIN E4 TR O L IN E 4
Barbès Barbès Rochechouart Rochechouart metro metro
BEA U BUOBUORUGR G BEA
Musée du Louvre’s modern entrance is I M Pei’s magnificent glass and steel pyramid.
Etienne Marcel Etienne Marcel metro metro
Musée Musée du du Louvre Louvre
Pompidou Pompidou Centre Centre
Pont Pont Neuf Neuf
MAMA RARA IS IS
Musée Musée Carnavalet Carnavalet
Sainte-Chapelle Sainte-Chapelle Place Place desdes Vosges Vosges
NotreNotreDame Dame
Ile St-Louis Caveau Caveau de de Ile St-Louis la Huchette la Huchette e in Se ne i
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Se
QUQU A RATRI ETRI E R LALTAI NT I N
Jardin Jardin desdes Plantes Plantes
lavish Opéra Garnier (see p104) and elegant Place Vendôme (see p104). AFTERNOON
Wander through the Tuileries (see p103) and visit Monet’s exquisite Water Lilies at the Orangerie (closed Tue; see p52). Then stroll along the Champs-Elysées (see p111) to the Arc de Triomphe (see pp30–31).
Day 2
MORNING
Discover modern art at the Pompidou Centre (see pp32–3), then learn the history of Paris at Musée Carnavalet (closed Mon; see p50). Enjoy a bistro lunch on Place des Vosges (see p93). AFTERNOON
Check out the trendy Marais district (see pp92–5), then tranquil Ile StLouis (see pp78–81). Marvel at NotreDame (see pp20–23) before a concert at Sainte-Chapelle (see pp36–7).
Montmartre’s leafy Place du Tertre is always crowded with artists at their easels or selling their work.
Day 3
MORNING
Take a boat trip along the River Seine (see p170) before a visit to the great Impressionists at the Musée d’Orsay (closed Mon; see pp16–19). AFTERNOON
Pay your respects to Napoleon at Les Invalides (see pp38–9) and then head off to the Eiffel Tower (see pp24–5).
Day 4
MORNING
You’ll have time to see all the star exhibits of the Louvre (closed Tue; see pp12–15) before heading off for lunch in the Latin Quarter (see pp124–7). AFTERNOON
Visit France’s great and good at the Panthéon (see pp34–5), explore the lovely Jardin des Plantes (see p135) and end the day with live jazz at Caveau de la Huchette (see p65).
Top 10 Paris Highlights
Magnificent vaulting and stained-glass windows, Sainte-Chapelle
Paris Highlights
10
Arc de Triomphe
30
Musée du Louvre
12
Centre Georges Pompidou
32
Musée d’Orsay
16
The Panthéon
34
Notre-Dame
20
Sainte-Chapelle
36
Eiffel Tower
24
Hôtel des Invalides
38
Sacré-Coeur
26
10 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Paris Highlights From Notre-Dame to the Eiffel Tower, Paris holds some of the world’s most famous sights. These ten attractions should be top of the list for any first-time visitor, and remain eternally awe-inspiring. Musée du Louvre
1
The world’s most visited museum also contains one of the world’s finest collections of art and antiquities (up to 1848). To complete the superlatives, it was once France’s largest royal palace (see pp12–15). MO U U MNCEA O NCEA AND AND E FER I FE RDILE D L A V EA VDE D
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world’s leading art galleries and, for many, reason alone to visit Paris (see pp16–19).
Notre-Dame
INV L IEDSE S INV A LAID
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d’Orsay 2 Musée This former railway station is one of the
AV AV Parc Parc du du E E Champ Champ D D E de E Mars de Mars SU SU FF FF RE RE N N
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3
This great Gothic cathedral, founded on the site of a Gallo-Roman temple, is a repository of art and history. It is also the geographical “heart” of France (see pp20–23).
Tower 4 Eiffel Nearly seven million visitors a
year ascend to the top of this most famous Paris landmark for the spectacular views. It was erected for the Universal Exhibition of 1889 (see pp24–5).
Sacré-Coeur
5
The terrace in front of this monumental white-domed basilica in Montmartre affords one of the finest free views over Paris (see pp26–7).
de Triomphe 6 Arc Napoleon’s triumphal arch,
celebrating battle victories, stands proudly at the top of the Champs-Elysées and, along with the Eiffel Tower, is one of the city’s most enduring images (see pp30–31).
Georges 7 Centre Pompidou
Home to France’s National Museum of Modern Art, the building itself is a fascinating work of contemporary art (see pp32–3).
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Paris Highlights ❮❮ 11
MONGE MONGE
Jardin desdes Jardin Plantes Plantes
Panthéon
8
The great and the good of France, including Voltaire, are buried in the Panthéon (see pp34–5).
9 Sainte-Chapelle Called “a gateway to heaven”,
this exquisite church was built to house relics collected by St Louis on his Crusades (see pp36–7).
des Invalides 0 Hôtel The glowing golden dome
of the Hôtel des Invalides church is unmistakable across the rooftops of Paris. It houses Napoleon’s tomb (see pp38–9).
12 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Musée du Louvre One of the world’s most impressive museums, the Louvre contains some 35,000 priceless objects. It was built as a fortress by King Philippe-Auguste in 1190, but Charles V (1364–80) made it his home. In the 16th century François I replaced it with a Renaissance-style palace and founded the royal art collection with 12 paintings from Italy. Revolutionaries opened the collection to the public in 1793. Shortly after, Napoleon renovated the Louvre as a museum. de Milo 1 Venus The positioning of this statue,
dramatically lit at the end of a hallway, enhances its beauty. Believed to represent the goddess Aphrodite, it dates from the end of the 2nd century BC and was discovered on the Greek island of Milos in 1820.
Lisa 2 Mona Arguably the
most famous painting in the world, Leonardo’s portrait of the woman with the enigmatic smile (see p15) has been beautifully restored. Visit early or late in the day.
5 Glass Pyramid
The unmistakable glass pyramid, designed by I M Pei, became the Louvre’s new entrance in 1989. Stainless steel tubes make up the 21-m-high (69-ft) frame (above).
Horses Medieval 3 Marly Coustou’s rearing 6 Moats horses being restrained by horse-tamers were sculpted in 1745 for Louis XIV’s Château de Marly. Replicas stand near the Place de la Concorde.
An excavation in the 1980s uncovered the remains of the medieval fortress. You can see the base of the towers and the drawbridge support under the Cour Carrée.
4 Slaves Michelangelo
Winged 7 The Victory of
sculpted Dying Slave (left) and Rebellious Slave (1513–20) for the tomb of Pope Julius II in Rome. The unfinished figures seem to be emerging from their “prisons” of stone.
Samothrace
This Hellenistic treasure (3rd–2nd century BC) stands atop a stone ship radiating grace and power. It was created to commemorate a naval triumph at Rhodes.
Musée du Louvre ❮❮ 13 Raft of the Medusa 8 The The shipwreck of a French
frigate three years earlier inspired this gigantic early Romantic painting (left) by Théodore Géricault (1791– 1824) in 1819. The work depicts the moment when the survivors spot a sail on the horizon.
0 The Lacemaker
Colonnade 9 Perrault’s The majestic east façade by Claude Perrault (1613– 88), with its paired Corinthian columns, was part of an extension plan commissioned by Louis XIV.
The Winged Victory of Samothrace 7
The Raft of the Medusa 8
Mona 2 Lisa Marly Horses 3 Dying 4 Slave
Perrault’s Colonnade 9
Glass 5 Pyramid Key Ground floor First floor Second floor
Venus 1 de Milo
NEED TO KNOW MAP L2 • Musée du Louvre, 75001 • 01 40 20 53 17 • www.louvre.fr Open 9am–6pm Mon, Thu, Sat & Sun, 9am– 9:45pm Wed & Fri; closed Tue & public hols Admission €15 (subject to change); free 1st Sun of month (except Apr–Sep); under-18s free; under-26s (EU only) free Partial disabled access
masterpiece (above), painted around 1665, gives a simple but beautiful rendering of everyday life 6 Medieval and is the highlight of the Louvre’s Dutch collection. Moats
For a light lunch, try out Le Café Marly in the Richelieu Wing or the food court in Carrousel du Louvre. For a more special option make a reservation at the Grand Louvre restaurant below the pyramid.
•
Beat the queues and buy tickets in advance online or at machine kiosks at the Porte des Lions entrance at the west end of the Denon Wing (except Friday).
•
Lacemaker 0 The Jan Vermeer’s
Gallery Guide The foyer is under the pyramid. Those with tickets are given priority access at the pyramid. Alternatively, buy tickets at the Carrousel du Louvre entrance (99 rue de Rivoli) or Porte des Lions. The Sully, Denon and Richelieu wings lead off from the foyer. Painting and sculpture are displayed by country, plus galleries for objets d’art, antiquities and prints. The Petit Galerie, in the Richelieu wing, is a temporary exhibition area aimed at children.
14 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Louvre Collections
Ancient Egyptian vase
Paintings 1 French This superb collection ranges from the 14th century to 1848 and includes works by such artists as Jean Watteau, Georges de la Tour and J H Fragonard.
Sculpture 2 French Highlights include the Tomb of Philippe Pot by Antoine le Moiturier, the Marly Horses (see p12) and works by Pierre Puget.
Antiquities 3 Egyptian The finest collection outside
Cairo, featuring a Sphinx in the crypt, the Seated Scribe of Sakkara, huge sarcophagi, mummified animals, funerary objects and intricate carv ings depicting everyday life in Ancient Egypt.
Antiquities 4 Greek The wondrous art of Ancient
Greece here ranges from a Cycladic idol from the third millennium BC to Classical Greek marble statues (c.5th century BC) to Hellenistic works (late 3rd–2nd century BC). Collections Floorplan 8
9
1
6 4 2 7
3 5 4 3
7 0 Basement
Antiquities 5 Oriental A stunning collection includes a recreated temple of an Assyrian king and the Codex of Hammurabi (18thcentury BC), mankind’s oldest written laws.
Paintings 6 Italian French royalty adored the art of Italy and amassed much of this collection (1200–1800). It includes many works by Leonardo da Vinci.
Sculpture 7 Italian Highlights of this collection,
dating from the early Renaissance, include a 15thcentury Madonna and Child by Donatello and Michelangelo’s Slaves (see p12).
Paintings 8 Dutch Rembrandt’s works are hung
alongside domestic scenes by Vermeer and portraits by Frans Hals.
d’Art 9 Objets The ceramics, jewellery and other items in this collection span history and the world.
Art 0 Islamic This exquisite collection,
which spans 13 centuries and 3 continents, is covered by an ultra modern glass veil.
Musée du Louvre ❮❮ 15 LEONARDO DA VINCI AND THE MONA LISA
Leonardo da Vinci, Renaissance man extraordinaire, was not only an artist but also a sculptor, engineer, architect and scientist. His many interests included the study of anatomy and aerodynamics.
Born in Vinci to a wealthy family, Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519) took up an apprenticeship under Florentine artist Andrea del Verrocchio, then served the Duke of Milan as an architect and military engineer, during which time he painted the Last Supper mural (1495). On his return to Florence, to work as architect to Cesare Borgia, he painted his most celebrated portrait, the Mona Lisa (1503–06). It is also known as La Gioconda, allegedly the name of the model’s aristocratic husband, although there is ongoing speculation regarding the identity of the subject. The work, in particular the sitter’s mysterious smile, shows mastery of two techniques: chiaroscuro, the contrast of light and shadow, and sfumato, subtle transitions between colours. It was the artist’s own favourite painting and he took it with him everywhere. In 1516 François I brought them both to France, giving da Vinci the use of a manor house in Amboise in the Loire Valley, where he died three years later. TOP 10
LOUVRE RESIDENTS
1 Charles V (1364–80) 2 Henri II (1547–49) 3 Catherine de’ Medicis (1519–89) 4 Henri IV (1589–1610) 5 Louis XIII (1610–43) 6 Louis XIV (1643–1715) 7 Anne of Austria (1601–66) 8 Guillaume Coustou, sculptor (1677–1746) 9 Edmé Bouchardon, sculptor (1698–1762) 10 François Boucher, artist (1703–70)
Mona Lisa, da Vinci’s enigmatic portrait
16 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Musée d’Orsay This wonderful collection covers a variety of art forms from the 1848–1914 period, and includes a superb Impressionists section. Its setting, in a converted railway station, is equally impressive. Built in 1900, in time for the Paris Exposition, the station was in use until 1939, when it was closed and largely ignored, bar acting as the location for Orson Welles’ 1962 film, The Trial. It was later used as a theatre and as auction rooms, and in the mid-1970s was considered for demolition. In 1977, the Paris authorities decided to save the imposing station building by converting it into this striking museum. Building 1 The The former railway station
that houses this museum (left) is almost as stunning as the exhibits. The light and spacious feel on stepping inside, after admiring the magnificent old façade, takes one’s breath away.
Van Gogh Paintings
2
The star of the collection is Vincent van Gogh (1853–90) and the most striking of the canvases on display is the 1889 work showing the artist’s Bedroom at Arles (right). Also on display are some of the artist’s self-portraits, painted with his familiar intensity (Rooms 71 & 72).
Déjeuner sur l’Herbe 3 Le Edouard Manet’s (1832–83) controversial painting (1863) was first shown in an “Exhibition of Rejected Works”. Its bold portrayal of a classically nude woman enjoying the company of 19th-century men in suits brought about a wave of criticism (Room 29).
4 Olympia 5 Blue Waterlilies Another Manet portrayal (1865) of a naked courtesan, receiving flowers sent by an admirer, was also regarded as indecent, and shocked the public and critics, but it was an important influence on later artists (Room 14).
Claude Monet (1840– 1926) painted this stunning canvas (1919) on one of his favourite themes. His love of waterlilies led him to create his own garden at Giverny in order to paint them in a natural setting. This work inspired many abstract painters later in the 20th century (Room 36).
6 Degas’ Statues of Dancers
The museum has an exceptional collection of works by Edgar Degas (1834–1917). Focusing on dancers and the world of opera, his sculptures range from innocent to erotic. Young Dancer of Four teen (1881) was the only one exhibited in the artist’s lifetime (left) (Room 31).
Musée d’Orsay ❮❮ 17 Avril 7 Jane Dancing
Toulouse-Lautrec’s (1864–1901) paintings define Paris’s belle époque. Jane Avril was a famous Moulin Rouge dancer and featured in several of his works, like this 1895 canvas (left), which ToulouseLautrec drew from life, in situ at the cabaret (Room 10).
at 8 Dancing the Moulin de la Galette
One of the best-known paintings of the Impressionist era (1876), this work was shown at the Impressionist exhibition in 1877. The exuberance of Renoir’s (1841–1919) work captures the look and mood of Montmartre and is one of the artist’s masterpieces (Room 32).
Belle 9 La Angèle
This portrait of a Brittany beauty (1889) by Paul Gauguin (1848–1903) shows the influence of Japanese art on the artist. It was bought by Degas, to finance Gauguin’s first trip to Polynesia (Room 72).
Campana 0 Café Offering a rest
from all the impressive art, the museum’s café, renovated by the Campana Brothers, is delightfully situated behind one of the former station’s huge clocks. A break here is an experience in itself and the food is good too.
NEED TO KNOW
The busy restaurant is open for lunch, plus dinner on Thursdays; closed Monday. For a snack or a drink try the upper level café (Café Campana) or the self-service mezzanine café just above.
ground floor houses works from the early to mid-19th century, as well as striking Oriental works, decorative arts and a bookshop. The middle level includes Open 9:30am–6pm Naturalist, Symbolist Tue–Sun (Thu till 9:45pm); and Post-Impressionist closed 1 May, 25 Dec paintings, and sculpture • Music concerts are often • Admission €11 (underheld. Call 01 53 63 04 63. terraces. The upper level is home to the Impressionist 18s free, under-26s EU Concert tickets include galleries. The museum only free), €8.50 for 18–25s free museum entry. also features temporary non-EU. Tickets can be exhibitions focusing on Museum Guide bought online. Free first 19th-century artists, such As soon as you enter the Sun of month. gallery, collect a map. The as Manet, Renoir and Degas. MAP J2 • 1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 75007 • 01 40 49 48 14 • www.musee-orsay.fr
•
18 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Musée d’Orsay Collections Impressionists 1 The One of the best Impressionist collections in the world. Admirers of Manet, Monet and Renoir will not be disappointed.
Post-Impressionists 2 The The artists who moved on to a newer interpretation of Impressionism are equally well represented, including Matisse, Toulouse-Lautrec and the towering figure of Van Gogh.
of Pont-Aven 3 School Paul Gauguin was at the
centre of the group of artists associated with Pont-Aven in Brittany. His work here includes the carved door panels known as the House of Pleasure (1901).
2
Collections Floorplan
3
1 8 4 3 7
9
3
6 5 Key Ground floor Middle level Upper level
7
0
James Whistler’s (1834–1903) portrait of his mother, dating from 1871.
Nouveau 4 Art 6 Romanticism Art Nouveau is synonymous The Romantics wanted to with Paris, with many metro stations retaining entrances built in that style. Pendants and glassware by René Lalique (1860–1945) are among the examples on display here.
heighten awareness of the spiritual world. One striking example is The Tiger Hunt (1854) by Eugène Delacroix (1798–1863).
works by Gustav Klimt (1862–1918) and Edvard Munch (1863–1944), and
carvings of politicians by Honoré Daumier (1808–79).
7 Sculpture The collection includes pieces 5 Symbolism by Rodin (see p120) and satirical This vast collection includes 8 Naturalism Naturalist painters intensified nature in their work. Haymaking (1877) by Jules Bastien-Lepage (1848–84) is a fine example.
9 Nabis The Nabis Movement made
art into a more decorative form. Pierre Bonnard (1867–1947) is one of its founding members.
0 Architecture In the 19th century, architects Blue Dancers (1890), Edgar Degas
were fascinated by the Roman water supply systems. This collection features architectural etchings and drawings – several on Paris.
Musée d’Orsay ❮❮ 19 THE IMPRESSIONIST MOVEMENT Regarded as the starting point of modern art, the Impressionist Movement is probably the best-known and best-loved art movement in the world – certainly if prices at auction and the crowds in the Musée d’Orsay are anything to go by. It began in France, and almost all its leading figures were French. Impressionism was a reaction against the formality and Classicism insisted upon by the Académie des Beaux-Arts in Paris, which was very much the art establishment, deciding what would or would not be exhibited at the Paris Salon. The term “impressionism” was actually coined by a critic of the style, who dismissed the 1872 Monet painting Impression: Sunrise, now on display at the Musée Marmottan (see p157). The artists themselves then adopted the term. The style influenced painters such as Van Gogh and was to have a lasting influence on 19th- and 20th-century art. Cathedral at Rouen (1892–3), Claude Monet
TOP 10
IMPRESSIONISTS
1 Claude Monet (1840–1926) 2 Edouard Manet (1832–83) 3 Auguste Renoir (1841–1919) 4 Edgar Degas (1834–1917) 5 Camille Pissarro (1830–1903) 6 Alfred Sisley (1839–99) 7 James Whistler (1834–1903) 8 Walter Sickert (1860–1942) 9 Mary Cassatt (1844–1926) 10 Berthe Morisot (1841–95)
On the Beach (1873), Edouard Manet
20 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Notre-Dame The “heart” of the country, both geographically and spiritually, the Cathedral of Notre-Dame (Our Lady) stands on the Ile de la Cité. After Pope Alexander III laid the foundation stone in 1163, an army of craftsmen toiled for 170 years to realize Bishop Maurice de Sully’s magnificent design. Almost destroyed during the Revolution, the Gothic masterpiece was restored in 1841–64 by architect Viollet-le-Duc. At 130 m (430 ft) in length with a highvaulted nave and double side aisles, it is home to one of France’s largest organs.
1 Flying Buttresses
The striking flying buttresses supporting the cathedral’s east façade are by Jean Ravy. The best view is from Square Jean XXIII.
Towers 2 The The towers are
69 m (226 ft) high; climb the 387 steps of the north tower for great views. In 2013, new bells rang here to celebrate the cathedral’s 850th birthday.
Front 3 West The glorious entrance to the cathedral
(above) is through three elaborately carved portals. Biblical scenes, sculpted in the Middle Ages, depict the Life of the Virgin, the Last Judgment and the Life of St Anne. Above is the Gallery of Kings of Judaea and Israel.
Portal of the Virgin
Notre-Dame
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The splendid stone tympanum (right) was carved in the 13th century and shows the Virgin Mary’s death and coronation in heaven. However, the statue of the Virgin and Child that stands between the doors is a modern replica.
des 5 Galerie Chimères
Lurking between the towers are the famous gargoyles (chimères) (above), placed here to ward off evil.
Notre-Dame ❮❮ 21 Windows 6 Rose Three great rose windows adorn the
north, south and west façades, but only the north window (left) retains its 13th-century stained glass, depicting the Virgin surrounded by figures from the Old Testament. The south window shows Christ encircled by the Apostles.
Spire 7 The The 96-m (315-ft) spire was added by Viollet-le-Duc. Next to the Apostles statues is one of the architect, admiring his work.
of 8 Statue the Virgin
Cathedral Floorplan
and Child
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Also known as NotreDame de Paris (Our Lady of Paris), this beautiful 14th-century statue was brought to the cathedral from the chapel of St Aignan. It stands against the southeast pillar of the transept, at the entrance to the chancel.
Treasury
9 Ancient
manuscripts, reliquaries and religious garments are housed in the sacristy. The Crown of Thorns is on public view on the first Friday of every month.
NEED TO KNOW
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6 2 5 4
0 Choirstalls More than half
of the original stalls commissioned by Louis XIV survive. Among the beautifully carved work on the 78 stalls are scenes from the Life of the Virgin.
There are cafés opposite These contain the “May” paintings by Charles le Brun, Square Jean XXIII. donated by the goldsmiths’ • Free organ recitals on guild each May in the 17th Saturdays at 8pm. and 18th centuries. The fine • Annual light and sound transept across the nave shows (Jul–Aug: 9:30pm is the best place to admire Fri–Sun; Sep–Oct: 9:15pm the three rose windows. Sat–Sun). Open Cathedral daily Remnants of the 14th-cen8am–6:45pm (to 7:15pm tury stone screen can be Cathedral Guide seen on the north and Sat & Sun); towers Apr– Enter through the West south bays of the chancel. Sep: 10am–6:30pm Front. The stairs to the Nicolas Coustou’s Pietà daily; Oct–Mar: 10am– towers are outside to your is behind the high altar, 5:30pm daily left. Ahead, the central flanked by statues of Louis Admission (towers): €8.50 nave soars to a height XIII by Coustou and Louis of 35 m (115 ft), while 24 (€5.50 18–25s, under-18s XIV by Antoine Coysevox. free), free 1st Sun of month side chapels line the walls.
MAP N4 • 6 Parvis NotreDame – Place Jean-Paul II, 75004 • 01 53 10 07 00 (towers); 01 42 34 56 10 (cathedral) • www. notredamedeparis.fr
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Famous Visitors to Notre-Dame of Arc 1 Joan The patriot Jeanne d’Arc
(1412–31), who defended France against the invading English, had a posthumous trial here in 1455, despite having been burned at the stake 24 years earlier. She was found to be innocent of heresy.
II 2 François and Mary Stuart
Mary Stuart (Mary Queen of Scots; 1542–87) had been raised in France and married the Dauphin in 1558. He ascended the throne as François II in 1559 and the king and queen were crowned in Notre-Dame.
3 Napoleon The coronation of Napoleon
(1769–1821) in Notre-Dame in 1804 saw the eager general seize the crown from Pope Pius VII and crown himself emperor and his wife, Josephine, empress.
4 Josephine Josephine’s (1763–1814) reign
as Empress of France lasted only five years; Napoleon divorced her in 1809.
Pius VII 5 Pope In 1809 Pope Pius VII (1742–
1823), who oversaw Napoleon’s Notre-Dame coronation, was taken captive when the emperor declared the Papal States to be part of France.
The pope was imprisoned at Fontainebleau, 50 km (30 miles) south of Paris.
6 Philip the Fair
In 1302 the first States General parliament was formally opened at Notre-Dame by Philip IV (1268–1314), otherwise known as Philip the Fair. He greatly increased the governing power of the French royalty.
VI 7 Henry of England
Statue of Joan of Arc inside Notre-Dame
Henry VI (1421–71) became King of England at the age of one. Like his father, Henry V, he also claimed France and was crowned in NotreDame in 1430.
of Valois 8 Marguerite In August 1572, Marguerite
(1553–1589), sister of Charles IX, stood in the Notre-Dame chancel during her marriage to the Protestant Henri of Navarre (1553–1610), while he stood alone by the door.
of Navarre 9 Henri As a Protestant Huguenot,
Henri’s marriage to the Catholic Marguerite resulted in uprising and massacres. In 1589 he became Henri IV, the first Bourbon king of France, and converted to Catholicism, stating that “Paris is well worth a Mass”.
de Gaulle 0 Charles On 26 August 1944, Charles de
Charles de Gaulle visits Notre-Dame
Gaulle entered Paris and attended a Magnificat service to celebrate the liberation of Paris, despite the fact that hostile snipers were still at large outside the cathedral.
Famous Visitors to Notre-Dame ❮❮ 23 THE MAN WHO SAVED NOTRE-DAME By 1831, when Victor Hugo’s novel Notre-Dame de Paris (The Hunchback of Notre-Dame) was published, the cathedral was already in a sorry state of decay. Even for the crowning of Napoleon in 1804, Novelist Victor Hugo the setting for such ceremonial state occasions was crumbling and had to be disguised with wall hangings and ornamentation. During the Revolution, the cathedral was even sold to a scrap dealer, though fortunately not demolished. Hugo was determined to save France’s spiritual heart and helped mount a successful campaign to restore Notre-Dame before it was too late; the man chosen to plan and oversee the restoration was Eugène Emmanuel Viollet-le-Duc (1814–79). He had already proved his skill in restoration work, on the cathedrals of Amiens and Laon, and the beautiful walled city of Carcassonne in southern France. Work began in 1841 and continued for 23 years until the building was completed more or less as it appears today.
TOP 10
EVENTS IN NOTREDAME HISTORY
1 Construction of the cathedral begins (1163) 2 St Louis places the Crown of Thorns here temporarily (1239) 3 Construction is completed (1334) 4 Retrial of Joan of Arc (1455) 5 Revolutionaries loot the cathedral and make it a Temple of Reason (1789) 6 Crowning of Emperor Napoleon (1804) 7 Restoration work is completed (1864) 8 Mass for the Liberation of Paris (1944) 9 De Gaulle’s Requiem Mass is held (1970) 10 New bells with a medieval tone mark the 850th anniversary (2013)
The Hunchback of Notre-Dame, Hugo’s 1831 novel, tells the story of Quasimodo, a hunchbacked bell-ringer at Notre-Dame, who falls in love with gypsy girl Esmeralda.
24 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Eiffel Tower The most distinctive symbol of Paris, the Eiffel Tower (Tour Eiffel) was much maligned by critics when it appeared on the city’s skyline in 1889 as part of the Universal Exhibition, but its graceful symmetry soon made it the star attraction. At 324 m (1,062 ft) high, it was the world’s tallest building until it was surpassed by New York’s Chrysler Building in 1930. Despite its delicate appearance, it weighs 10,100 metric tons and engineer Gustave Eiffel’s construction was so sound that it never sways more than 9 cm (3.5 in) in strong winds.
1 Lighting Some 20,000 bulbs and 336 lamps make the Eiffel Tower (left) a spectacular night-time sight. It sparkles like a giant Christmas tree for five minutes every hour from dusk until 1am.
from the 2 View Trocadéro
Day or night, the best approach for a first-time view of the tower is from the Trocadéro (see p142), which affords a monumental vista from the Chaillot terrace across the Seine.
Eiffel’s Office 3 Gustave Located at the top of the tower is Gustave Eiffel’s office, which has been restored to its original condition. It displays wax models of Thomas Edison and Eiffel himself.
Level 4 First You can walk
the 345 steps up to the 57-m- (187-ft-) high first level and enjoy a meal at 58 Tour Eiffel. Renovated in 2014, this level includes glass floors and educational displays.
Viewing Gallery
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At 276 m (906 ft), the stupendous view (right) stretches for 80 km (50 miles) on a clear day. You can also see Gustave Eiffel’s sitting room on this level.
Eiffel Tower
Eiffel Tower ❮❮ 25
7 Champ-de-Mars The long gardens of this former parade ground stretch from the base of the tower to the École Militaire (military school).
8 Ironwork The complex pattern of the girders (above), held together by 2.5 million rivets, stabilizes the tower in high winds. The metal can expand up to 15 cm (6 in) on hot days.
of 9 Bust Gustave Eiffel
Level 6 Second At 115 m (377 ft) high, this level is the location of Le Jules Verne restaurant (below), one of the finest in Paris for food and views (see p123). It is reached by a private lift in the south pillar.
This bust of the tower’s creator, by Antoine Bourdelle, was placed below his remarkable achievement, by the north pillar, in 1929.
Lift 0 Hydraulic Mechanism
The 1899 lift mechanism is still in operation and travels some 103,000 km (64,000 miles) a year. The uniformed guard clinging to the outside is a model.
THE LIFE OF GUSTAVE EIFFEL Born in Dijon, Gustave Eiffel (1832–1923) was an engineer and builder who made his name building bridges and viaducts, and helped in the design of the Statue of Liberty. Eiffel was famous for the graceful designs and master craftsmanship of his many wrought-iron constructions. He once said that his famous tower was “formed by the wind itself”. In 1890 he became immersed in the study of aerodynamics, and kept an office in the tower until his death, using it for experiments. In 1889, when the Eiffel Tower was erected, its creator was awarded the Légion d’Honneur. MAP B4 • Champ de Mars, 7e • 08 92 70 12 39 • www.toureiffel.paris Open Lift 9:30am– 11:45pm daily; last adm for top 10:30pm (mid-Jun–1 Sep: 9am– 12:45am; last adm for top 11pm); Stairs 9:30am–6:30pm daily; last adm 6pm (mid-Jul– 1 Sep: 9am–12:45am; last adm midnight) Admission: €7 (stairs); €10–€17 (lift) Disabled access to first and second levels only There are restaurants and snack bars on levels 1 and 2, along with a Champagne bar on level 3, plus food kiosks around the base.
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Beat the queues by booking your visit in advance, either by phone or online.
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26 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Sacré-Coeur One of the most photographed images of the city, the spectacular white basilica of Sacré-Coeur (Sacred Heart) watches over Paris from its highest point. The basilica was built as a memorial to the 58,000 French soldiers killed during the Franco-Prussian War (1870–71). It took 46 years to build and was finally completed in 1923 at a cost of 40 million francs (6 million euros). Priests still pray for the souls of the dead here, 24 hours a day, as they have since 1885. People flock here for the breathtaking panoramic views – at sunset, in particular, there are few sights in Paris more memorable. Mosaic 1 Great of Christ
A glittering Byzantine mosaic of Christ, created by Luc Olivier Merson between 1912 and 1922, decorates the vault over the chancel. It represents France’s devotion to the Sacred Heart.
Doors 3 Bronze The doors of the portico entrance are
beautifully decorated with bronze relief sculptures depicting the Last Supper and other scenes from the life of Christ.
Dome 4 The The distinctive Vaults 2 Crypt The arched vaults of the crypt (above) house a chapel that contains the heart of Alexandre Legentil, one of the advocates of Sacré-Coeur.
egg-shaped dome of the basilica is the second-highest viewpoint in Paris after the Eiffel Tower. Reached via a spiral staircase, vistas can stretch as far as 48 km (30 miles) on a clear day.
of 5 Statue Christ
The basilica’s most important statue shows Christ giving a blessing. It is symbolically placed in a niche over the main entrance, above the two bronze equestrian statues.
Sacré-Coeur ❮❮ 27
6 Stained-Glass Gallery One level of the great dome is encircled by stained-glass windows (right). From here there is a grand view over the whole interior.
Tower 7 Bell The campanile,
designed by Lucien Magne and added in 1904, is 80 m (262 ft) high. One of the heaviest bells in the world, the 19-ton La Savoyarde hangs in the belfry. Cast in Annecy in 1895, it was donated by the dioceses of Savoy.
8 Façade Architect Paul
Abadie (1812–1884) employed a mix of domes, turrets and Classical features in his design. The ChâteauLandon stone secretes calcite when wet and so keeps the façade bleached white (left).
THE FRANCOPRUSSIAN WAR In 1870, as Prussia made moves to take over the rest of Germany, France was also threatened by its military power. Two Catholic businessmen in Paris made a vow to build a church dedicated to the Sacred Heart if France were spared the Prussian onslaught. France declared war on Prussia in July, but the country was ill-prepared and in September Napoleon III was captured. Parisians held fast; defending their city with homemade weapons and eating dogs, cats and rats. But by January 1871 they surrendered.
9 Equestrian Statues
Two striking bronze statues of French saints stand on the portico above the main entrance, cast in 1927 by Hippolyte Lefèbvre. One is of Joan of Arc, the other is of Louis IX, later canonized as Saint Louis.
Funicular 0 The To avoid the steep climb up to
NEED TO KNOW
Sacré-Coeur, take the funiculaire cable railway (below) and enjoy the views at leisure. It runs from the end of rue Foyatier, near Square Willette.
MAP F1 • Parvis de la Basilique du Sacré-Coeur, 75018 • 01 53 41 89 00 • www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com Basilica: 6am–10:30pm daily, last entry 10:15pm. Dome and Crypt: 8:30am–8pm May– Sep, 9am–5pm Oct–Apr. Admission €8 Avoid the crowds by heading to 23 Rue des Abbesses and grab a bite at Le St-Jean.
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An evocative sung Mass takes place on Sundays at 11am.
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Following pages Notre-Dame illuminated at dusk
30 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Arc de Triomphe The best day to visit the world’s most familiar triumphal arch is 2 December, the date that marks Napoleon’s victory at the Battle of Austerlitz in 1805, when the sun, setting behind the Champs-Elysées and the Arc de Triomphe, creates a spectacular halo around the building. Work began on the 50-m (164-ft) arch in 1806 but was not completed until 1836, due, in part, to Napoleon’s fall from power. Four years later, Napoleon’s funeral procession passed beneath it, on its way to his burial in Les Invalides (see pp38–9). Today the arch is a focal point for numerous public events. of the 4 Tomb Unknown Soldier
In the centre of the arch flickers the eternal flame on the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (left), a victim of World War I buried on 11 November 1920. It is symbolically reignited every day at 6:30pm.
Viewing Platform 1 Museum Within the arch is a small but 5 Taking the elevator or interesting museum which tells the history of its construction and gives details of various celebrations and funerals that the arch has seen over the years. The more recent of these are shown in a short video.
of the 2 Departure Volunteers in 1792
One of the most striking sculptures is on the front right base. It shows French citizens leaving to defend their nation against Austria and Prussia.
of 3 Triumph Napoleon
As you look at the arch from the ChampsElysées, the relief on the left base shows the restored Triumph of Napoleon. It celebrates the Treaty of Vienna peace agreement signed in 1810, when Napoleon’s empire was in its heyday.
climbing the 284 steps to the top of the Arc de Triomphe gives visitors a sublime view (below) of Paris and a sense of the arch’s dominant position in the centre of the Place de l’Etoile. To the east is the magnificent ChampsElysées (see p111) and to the west is the Grande Arche de La Défense (see p155). There are another 40 steps after the lift.
Arc de Triomphe
Arc de Triomphe ❮❮ 31 of Austerlitz 7 Battle Another battle victory is
of Aboukir 6 Battle Above the Triumph of Napoleon carving is this scene (above) showing Napoleonic victory over the Turks in 1799. The same victory was commemorated on canvas in 1806 by the French painter Antoine Gros and is now on display at the Palace of Versailles (see p155).
shown on a frieze on the arch’s north side. It depicts Napoleon’s heavily outnumbered troops breaking the ice on Lake Satschan in Austria, a tactic which drowned thousands of enemy troops.
8 Frieze A frieze running around the arch shows French troops departing for battle (east) and their victorious return (west). THE GREAT AXIS The Arc de Triomphe is the central of three arches; together they create a grand vision of which even Napoleon would have been proud. He was responsible for the first two, placing the Arc de Triomphe directly in line with the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel in front of the Louvre (see pp12–15), which also celebrates the victory at Austerlitz. In 1989, the trio was completed with the Grande Arche de La Défense. The 8km-long (5-mile) Grand Axe (Great Axis) runs from here to the Louvre’s Pyramid.
9 General Marceau’s Funeral
Admission €9.50; under 18s NEED TO KNOW MAP B2 • Place Charles- and 18–25s (EU only) free. de-Gaulle, 75008 • 01 55 • Arrive early to see 37 73 77 (enquiries) • arc- the golden tone of the de-triomphe.monuments- stonework at its best. nationaux.fr • Enjoy the old-world Open Apr–Sep: 10am– charm of Le Fouquet (99 11pm daily (until 10:30pm Ave des Champs-Elysées). Oct–Mar; last adm 45 mins It’s expensive, but worth before closing); closed 1 Jan, the treat. 1 May, 8 May (am), 14 Jul • Arch access via the (am), 11 Nov (am), 25 Dec underground tunnel only. and events
Marceau died in battle against the Austrian army in 1796, after a famous victory against them the previous year. His funeral is depicted in a frieze located above the Departure of the Volunteers in 1792.
Shields 0 Thirty Immediately below
the top of the arch runs a row of 30 shields, each carrying the name of a Napoleonic victory.
32 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Centre Georges Pompidou Today one of the world’s most famous pieces of modern architecture, when the Pompidou Centre opened in 1977, architects Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano startled everyone by turning the building “inside out”, with brightly coloured pipes displayed on the façade. Designed as a cross-cultural arts complex, it houses the excellent Musée National d’Art Moderne (Modern Art Museum), as well as a cinema, library, shops and performance space. The outside forecourt is a popular gathering spot for tourists and locals alike.
1 Escalator One of the building’s most
striking and popular features is the external escalator (right) which climbs, snake-like, up the front of the Centre in its plexiglass tube. The view gets better and better as you rise high above the activity in the Centre’s forecourt, before arriving at the top for the best view of all.
4 Bookshop The ground-floor bookshop sells a range of postcards, posters of major works in the Modern Art Museum and books on artists associated with Paris.
2 Pipes Part of the shock factor of the
Pompidou Centre is that the utility pipes are outside the building (above). Not only that, they are vividly coloured: bright green for water, yellow for electricity and blue for air conditioning.
3 Top-Floor View
The view from the top of the Pompidou Centre is spectacular. The Eiffel Tower is visible, as is Montmartre in the north and the monolithic Tour Montparnasse to the south. On clear days views can stretch as far as La Défense (see p155).
Piazza 5 The 6 Stravinsky Fountain Visitors and locals gather in the open space in front of the Centre to enjoy a variety of street performers and the changing installations of sculptures, which are often related to shows at the Centre.
This colourful fountain in Place Igor Stravinsky was designed by Niki de SaintPhalle and Jean Tinguely as part of the Pompidou Centre development. Inspired by composer Stravinsky’s ballet The Firebird (1910), the bird spins and sprays water.
Centre Georges Pompidou ❮❮ 33 l’arc 8 Avec noir (With a Black Arch)
One of the pioneers of Abstract art, artist Vasily Kandinsky (1866–1944) promoted the use of non naturalist geometric forms. His Avec l’arc noir (1912) features a black line that recalls the douga (wooden arch) of a Russian troika (carriage).
with a Guitar 7 Man Within the Modern Art Museum, this 1914
work (above) by artist Georges Braque (1882–1963) is one of the most striking of the Cubist Movement.
NEED TO KNOW MAP P2 • Place Georges Pompidou 75004 • 01 44 78 12 33 • www. centrepompidou.fr Museum: 11am–10pm Wed–Mon (11pm Thu); closed 1 May. Admission €11–14. Free 1st Sun of the month, under-18s free, under-26s free (EU only) Brancusi’s Studio: 2–6pm Wed–Mon. The centre’s café is pleasant and has free Wi-Fi access. For something grander, head to Georges, the rooftop brasserie.
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• Buy tickets online to avoid the queues.
Centre Guide The Centre is home to various institutions. The Museum of Modern Art (Mnam) is on levels 4 and 5, the cinema on level 1. Check at the information desk or on the website for details about the temporary shows (level 6), rehangs of works and the contemporary art “happenings”. Displays at the Mnam often change and some works are now shared with its sister institution in Metz.
n°3 0 Compositie Together with
Piet Mondrian, Dutch painter Bart van der Leck (1876–1958) founded the De Stijl style, The Romanian sculptor Constantin an abstract approach in which colours are limited Brancusi (1876– 1957) left his entire and forms created with studio to the state. horizontal and vertical lines. The figurative basis It has been recon structed (left) in the for his work, Compositie Piazza, and displays n°3 is believed to have his abstract works. been harvesters.
9 Brancusi’s Studio
34 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
The Panthéon Paris’s Panthéon is a fitting final resting place for the nation’s great figures. Originally built as a church, at the behest of Louis XV, it was completed in 1790. It was intended to look like the Pantheon in Rome, but actually more closely resembles St Paul’s Cathedral in London. During the Revolution it was used as a mausoleum. Napoleon returned it to the Church in 1806. It became a public building in 1885. Dome
1 Crypt The crypt (above)
is eerily impressive in its scale, compared to most tiny, dark church crypts. Here lie the tombs and memorials to worthy French citizens, including the prolific French writer Emile Zola (see p45).
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Inspired by Sir Christopher Wren’s design for St Paul’s Cathedral in London, as well as by the Dôme Church at Les Invalides (see p38), this ironframed dome (right) is made up of three layers. At the top, a narrow opening lets in only a tiny amount of natural light, in keeping with the building’s sombre purpose.
5 Dome Galleries
A staircase leads to the galleries immediately below the dome itself, Frescoes affording spectacular of Sainte 360-degree panoramic Geneviève views of Paris. The pillars surrounding Delicate murals by 19thcentury artist Pierre Puvis the galleries are de Chavannes, on the south both decorative and functional, providing wall of the nave, tell the essential support for story of Sainte Geneviève, the dome. the patron saint of Paris. She is believed to have saved the city from invasion in 451 by Attila the Hun and his hordes through the power of her prayers.
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3 Façade The Panthéon’s
façade (right) was inspired by Roman architecture. The 22 Corinthian columns support both the portico roof and bas-reliefs.
6 Monument to Diderot
French philosopher Denis Diderot (1713– 84) is honoured by this grand 1925 monument by Alphonse Terroir.
The Panthéon ❮❮ 35 Pendulum 7 Foucault’s In 1851 French physicist Jean Foucault
(1819–68) followed up an earlier experiment to prove the Earth’s rotation by hanging his famous pendulum from the dome of the Panthéon. The plane of the pendulum’s swing rotated 11° clockwise each hour in relation to the floor, thereby proving Foucault’s theory.
LOUIS BRAILLE One of the most influ ential citizens buried in the Panthéon is Louis Braille (1809–52). Braille became blind at the age of three. He attended the National Institute for the Young Blind and was a gifted student. He continued at the Institute as a teacher and, in 1829, had the idea of adapting a coding system in use by the army, by turning words and letters into raised dots on card. Reading Braille has transformed the lives of blind people ever since. Panthéon Floorplan 4 1
0 7 2 5
NEED TO KNOW MAP N6 • Place du Panthéon, 75005 • 01 44 32 18 00 • pantheon.monuments nationaux.fr Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: 10am–6pm daily; closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec Admission €7.50 (non EU under25s €6, EU under25s free) No disabled access La Crêperie (12 rue Soufflot, open 7am–11pm) is an ideal pit stop for a crêpe or coffee.
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Ticket sales stop 45 minutes before closing time, so arrive in plenty of time.
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Relief 8 Pediment The bas-relief above the
entrance shows a female figure, representing France, handing out laurels to the great men of the nation – the same way that Greeks and Romans honoured their heroes.
of Voltaire 9 Tomb A statue (left) of the
great writer, wit and philosopher Voltaire (1694–1788) stands in front of his tomb.
of 0 Tomb Victor Hugo
The body of the French author (see p23) was carried to the Panthéon in a pauper’s hearse, at his own request.
36 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Sainte-Chapelle This Gothic masterpiece, built by Louis IX (1214–70) as a shrine for his holy relics of the Passion and completed in 1248, is considered the most beautiful church in Paris, not least for its 15 stained-glass windows soaring 15 m (50 ft) to a starcovered vaulted ceiling. The church was damaged during the 1789 Revolution but restored in the mid-19th century.
1 Window of Christ’s Passion
Chapel 5 Upper Entrance
As you emerge, via a spiral staircase, into this airy space (right), the effect of light and colour is utterly breathtaking. The 13th-century stained-glass windows, the oldest extant in Lower Chapel Paris, separated by stone Intended for use columns, depict biblical by the king’s servants, scenes from Genesis and dedicated to the right through to the Virgin Mary, this chapel Crucifixion. To “read” (below) is not as light the windows, start in and lofty as the Upper the lower left panel and Chapel but is still a follow each row left to magnificent sight. right, from bottom to top.
Located above the apse, this stainedglass depiction of the Crucifixion is the most beautiful window in the chapel.
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Spire 6 The The open latticework and pencil-thin shape give the flèche (spire) a very delicate appearance. In fact, three earlier church spires burned down – this one was erected in 1853 and rises 75-m (245-ft) into the air.
Portal 3 Main Like the Upper Chapel, the main portal has two tiers. Its pinnacles are decorated with a crown of thorns as a symbol of the relics within.
Rose Window
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The Flamboyant rose window (right), depicting St John’s vision of the Apocalypse in 86 panels, was a gift from Charles VIII in 1485. The green and yellow hues are brightest at sunset.
Sainte-Chapelle ❮❮ 37 Louis’ Oratory 7 St 9 Seats of the In the late 14th century Louis XI added an oratory where he could watch Mass through a small grille in the wall. The chapel originally adjoined the Conciergerie, the former royal palace on the Ile de la Cité (see p79).
8 Evening Concerts
Sainte-Chapelle has excellent acoustics. From March until November, classical concerts are held here several evenings a week.
During Mass, the royal family sat in niches located in the fourth bays on both sides of the chapel, away from the congregation.
Statues 0 Apostle Beautifully carved
medieval statues of 12 apostles stand on pillars along the walls. Badly damaged in the Revolution, most have been restored: the bearded apostle (right), fifth on the left, is the only original statue.
NEED TO KNOW MAP N3 • 6 Blvd du Palais, 75001 • 01 53 40 60 97 • sainte-chapelle. monuments-nationaux.fr Open Mar–Oct: 9:30am– 6pm daily (mid-May–midSep: till 9pm Wed); Nov– Feb: 9am–5pm; closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec
RELICS OF THE PASSION Louis IX, later St Louis, was the only French king to be canonized. While on his first Crusade in 1239, he purchased the alleged Crown of Thorns from the Emperor of Constantinople, and subsequently other relics, including pieces of the True Cross, nails from the Crucifixion and a few drops of Christ’s blood, paying almost three times more for them than for the construction of Sainte-Chapelle itself. The relics reside in Notre-Dame and are only displayed on religious holidays.
Royal Family
Admission €8.50, under18s and 18–25s (EU only) free. Audio guides €4.50. €13.50 joint adm to Conciergerie (see p79). Temp exhibitions €1.50 extra. Ticket sales stop 30 mins before closing. Restricted disabled access (48 hrs advance notice for wheelchairs)
For a little 1920s-style elegance, try Brasserie des Deux Palais on the corner of boulevard du Palais and rue de Lutèce.
•
A pair of binoculars comes in handy if you want to see the uppermost glass panels.
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38 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris Highlights
Hôtel des Invalides The “invalides” for whom this imposing Hôtel was built were wounded soldiers of the late 17th century. Louis XIV had the building constructed between 1671 and 1678, and veterans are still housed here, although only a dozen or so compared to the original 4,000. They share their home with arguably the greatest French soldier of them all, Napoleon Bonaparte, whose body rests in a crypt directly below the golden dome of the Dôme Church. Other buildings accommodate military offices, the Musée de l’Armée and smaller military museums.
1 Invalides Gardens
The approach to the Hôtel is across public gardens and then through a gate into the Invalides Gardens themselves. Designed in 1704, their paths are lined by 17th- and 18th-century cannons.
Dome 2 Golden The second church at the Hôtel was
begun in 1677 and took 27 years to build. Its magnificent dome stands 107 m (351 ft) high and glistens as much now as it did when Louis XIV, the Sun King, had it first gilded in 1715.
de l’Armée 3 Musée The Army Museum is one of the largest collections of militaria in the world (left). Enthusiasts will be absorbed for hours, and even the casual visitor will be fascinated by the exhibits. The Département Moderne, which traces military history from Louis XIV to Napoleon III, is especially worth a visit (see p119).
Dôme Church Ceiling
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The colourful, circular painting on the interior of the dome (right) above the crypt is the Saint Louis in Glory painted in 1692 by the French artist Charles de la Fosse. Near the centre is St Louis, who represents Louis XIV, presenting his sword to Christ in the presence of the Virgin Mary and angels.
Hôtel des Invalides ❮❮ 39
7 Napoleon’s Tomb
Hôtel des Invalides Floorplan
Napoleon’s body was brought here from St Helena in 1840, some 19 years after he died. He rests in grandeur in a cocoon of six coffins (left), almost “on the banks of the Seine” as was his last wish.
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des Invalides 5 Hôtel Tombs One of the loveliest sights 8 Church Encircling the Dôme Church are the in Paris, the Classical façade of the Hôtel (below) is four floors high and 196 m (645 ft) end to end. Features include the dormer windows with their variously shaped shield surrounds.
imposing tombs of great French military men, such as Marshal Foch and Marshal Vauban, who revolutionized military fortifications and siege tactics.
9 St-Louisdes-Invalides
Adjoining the Dôme Church is the Invalides complex’s original church, worth seeing for its 17th-century organ, on which the first performance of Berlioz’s Requiem was given.
des 0 Musée Plans-Reliefs de l’Ordre de la Libération 6 Musée The Order of Liberation, France’s highest
military honour, was created by Général de Gaulle in 1940 to acknowledge contributions during World War II. The museum details the history of the honour and the wartime Free French movement.
NEED TO KNOW
under-18s free; under-26s (EU only) free
Maps and models of French forts and fortified towns are displayed here. Some of them are beautifully detailed, such as the oldest model on display, of Perpignan, dating from 1686.
walk around to the ticket office on the south side. You will need a ticket for Limited disabled access the museums and to see • Le Café du Musée, Napoleon’s Tomb. If time is short, concentrate on the between the Varenne Open Apr–Oct: 10am– Musée de l’Armée, before metro station and the 6pm daily (Nov–Mar: 10am– Musée Rodin (see p120), walking through to the 5pm); closed first Mon of is a lovely spot for a drink. cobbled courtyard in front the month (except Jul–Sep), of the Dôme Church. 1 Jan, 1 May, 1 Nov, 25 Dec Hôtel Guide Approach from the Seine Admission €9.50 adults; for the best view, and then €7.50 concessions;
MAP D4 • 129 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 or Place Vauban, 75007 • 08 10 11 33 99 • www.invalides.org
The Top 10 of Everything
Interior of the Louvre’s Pyramid
Historical Events in Paris
42
Off the Beaten Track
58
Historical Novels Set in Paris
44
Children’s Attractions
60
Historic Buildings
46
Entertainment Venues
64
Places of Worship
48
Fine Dining
66
Museums
50
Cafés and Bars
68
Art Galleries
52
Shops and Markets
70
Riverfront Sights
54
Paris for Free
72
Parks and Gardens
56
Festivals and Events
74
42 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Historical Events in Paris invasion by Attila the Hun. She became the patron saint of Paris. But in 476 the Franks captured the city, Christianity became the official religion and Paris the capital of their new kingdom, France.
4 Charlemagne, Holy Roman Emperor
Ste Geneviève, patron saint of Paris
In 751 the Carolingian dynasty became rulers of France when Pepin the Short ascended the throne. His heir Charlemagne was crowned Holy Roman Emperor in 800 and moved the capital to Aix-la-Chapelle (now the city of Aachen). Paris fell into decline until Hugues Capet became king in 987, moving the capital back to his home city.
of the Parisii 1 Arrival Although the remains of
Neolithic settlements have been found dating back to 4500 BC, the first inhabitants are considered to be a Celtic tribe called the Parisii, who settled on the Ile de la Cité in the 3rd century BC. Hunters and fishermen, they named their village Lutetia, meaning “boatyard on a river”. The tribe minted their own gold coins and a pagan altar has been found beneath Notre-Dame.
Settlement 2 Roman The Romans conquered the
Parisii in 52 BC and rebuilt their city as an administrative centre on the Left Bank. The baths in the Musée National du Moyen Age (see p50) and the amphitheatre in Rue Monge are the only remains of the city’s Roman incarnation as Lutetia. In AD 360 the Roman prefect was declared emperor and Lutetia was renamed Paris, after its original inhabitants.
Founding of France
3 Roman rule weakened under
barbarian attacks. In 450 the prayers of a young nun, Geneviève, were credited with saving the city from
St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre
Bartholomew’s Day 5 StMassacre
Catherine de Médicis, Henri II’s queen, bore three French kings and one queen, Marguerite de Valois, who married the Protestant Henri of Navarre in August 1572. Catherine plotted to massacre the Protestant nobles who attended the wedding. The killings began on 24 August and thousands died. Henri of Navarre survived and later became Henri IV, the first Bourbon king.
Revolution 6 French Following decades of royal
excess and the growing gulf between rich and poor, Paris erupted into Revolution with the storming of the Bastille prison in 1789 (see box).
Historical Events in Paris ❮❮ 43 Coronation 7 Napoleon’s As Paris rose from the ashes
of Revolution, a young general from Corsica, Napoleon Bonaparte, saved the city from a royalist revolt, then led military victories in Italy and Egypt. He crowned himself Emperor of France in Notre-Dame in 1804 (see p22).
TOP 10 EVENTS IN THE FRENCH REVOLUTION
Second Empire 8 The In 1851, Napoleon’s nephew,
Louis-Napoleon, seized power as Emperor Napoleon III. He appointed Baron Haussmann to oversee the massive building and public works projects that transformed Paris into the most glorious city in Europe. The wide boulevards, many public buildings, parks, the sewer system and the first department stores date from between 1852 and 1870.
Paris Commune 9 The Following France’s defeat in
the Franco-Prussian War in 1871 (see p27), many citizens rejected the harsh terms of the surrender and a left-wing group revolted, setting up the Paris Commune. But, after 72 days, government troops marched on the city. In a week of brutal street fighting (21–28 May), much of the city burned and thousands of rebellious citizens were killed.
of Paris 0 Liberation The occupation of France by
Germany during World War II was a dark period for Paris. The city was the centre for the French Resistance. Allied forces liberated Paris on 25 August 1944; just two days earlier, the German commander Von Choltitz had ignored Adolf Hitler’s order to burn the city to the ground.
Storming of the Bastille 1 14 July 1789 The storming of the Bastille prison, a symbol of repression, launches the Revolution. 2 4 August 1789 The abolition of feudalism, and the right of everyone to be a free citizen, is declared. 3 26 August 1789 Formal declaration of the Rights of Man and the Citizen, which incorporated the ideals of equality and dignity, later subsumed into the 1791 Constitution. 4 October 1789 Citizens march on Versailles and the royal family returns to Paris to be imprisoned in the Tuileries Palace. 5 20 June 1791 King Louis XVI and his family try to escape but are spotted in Varenne and return to Paris as captives. 6 10 August 1792 A mob storms the Tuileries and the royals are imprisoned in the Temple. 7 21 September 1792 The monarchy is formally abolished and the First Republic is proclaimed. 8 1792–4 “The Terror” reigns, under the radical Commune led by Robespierre, Danton and Marat. Thousands are executed by guillotine. 9 21 January 1793 Louis XVI is found guilty of treason and executed. His queen Marie-Antoinette follows him to the guillotine on 16 October. 10 28 July 1794 Robespierre is guillotined, marking the end of The Terror, and the Revolution draws to a close.
The Liberation of Paris
44 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Historical Novels Set in Paris Père Goriot 4 Le Honoré de Balzac (1799–1850) chronicled Parisian life masterfully in his 80-volume La comédie humaine series, and this novel of 1853 is certainly among his finest. Balzac’s former home at 47 rue Raynouard in the 16th arrondissement, where he lived from 1840 to 1847, is open to the public (see p143).
Education 5 Sentimental Gustave Flaubert (1821–80)
Performance of Les Misérables
Misérables 1 Les The 1862 novel by Victor Hugo (1802–85) is an all too vivid portrayal of the poor and the dispossessed in early 19th-century Paris. At its centre is the tale of nobleman Jean Valjean, unfairly victimized by an unjust system. The character of Marius, the young idealist, is based on Hugo’s own experiences as an impoverished student.
Hunchback 2 The of Notre-Dame
Better known by its English title, which inspired a film of the same name, Victor Hugo’s Gothic novel was published in France in 1831 as Notre-Dame de Paris. Set in the Middle Ages, it tells the strange and moving story of a hunchback bellringer, Quasimodo, and his love for Esmeralda (see p23).
of Two Cities 3 ATheTale finest chronicler of
19th-century London life, Charles Dickens (1812–70) chose to set his 1859 novel in London and Paris, against the background of the French Revolution (see p43). His description of conditions in the Bastille prison makes for grim reading.
studied law in Paris but illness disrupted his chosen career and he devoted himself to literature. This work (L’education sentimentale in French), first published in 1870 in two volumes, stands alongside his greatest novel, Madame Bovary (1857), and marks the move away from Romanticism to Realism in French literature.
6 Bel-Ami Guy de
Maupassant (1850–93) published this, one of his best novels, in 1885, criticizing the get-rich-quick Parisian business world of the belle Guy de époque. Widely Maupassant acknowledged as one of the world’s greatest short-story writers, Maupassant is buried in the cemetery at Montparnasse in Greater Paris (see p156).
Recherche 7 AdulaTemps Perdu
The master work of Marcel Proust (1871–1922) was written in 13 volumes, the first novel appearing in 1913. Proust lived on boulevard Haussmann, and his epic tale is the fictionalized story of his own life, and of Paris during the belle époque. Proust is buried in Père Lachaise cemetery in eastern Paris (see p156).
Historical Novels Set in Paris ❮❮ 45
8 Nana Perhaps the greatest Parisian
chronicler of them all, Emile Zola (1840–1902) was born, lived and died in the city, although he spent part of his youth in Aix-en-Provence in southern France. Nana was published in 1880 and tells a shocking tale of sexual decadence, through the eyes of the central character, a dancer and prostitute.
9 L’Assommoir Published in 1877, Zola’s
L’Assommoir (The Drunkard) shows a side of Paris that many at the time would have preferred to ignore – the alcoholism of the working classes. It is one of the author’s series of 20 linked books known as the Rougon-Macquart sequence, which depicts life in every quarter of society through the eyes of two branches of the same family.
Thérèse Raquin
0 Here Zola focuses on the
secret passions that lurk behind a single Paris shopfront, opening up to reveal a tale of obsessive lust that ultimately leads to a brutal murder. It was published in 1867 and, only his second novel, shows the author’s astonishing maturity and unflinching examination of all aspects of 19th-century life.
TOP 10 FOREIGN WRITERS WHO LIVED IN PARIS
Ernest Hemingway 1 Ernest Hemingway The US author (1899–1961) wrote A Moveable Feast as an affectionate portrait of his time living in Paris from 1921 to 1926. 2 F. Scott Fitzgerald Like Hemingway, US writer Fitzgerald (1896–1940) lived in Montparnasse and frequented La Coupole (see p131). 3 George Orwell The English novelist (1903–50) tells of his shocking experiences living in poverty in Down and Out in Paris and London (1933). 4 Samuel Beckett The Irish-born playwright (1906–89) lived in Paris from 1928 until his death. 5 Anaïs Nin US novelist Nin (1903–77) met her lover, fellow American Henry Miller, in Paris. Her Diaries tell of her time here. 6 Albert Camus Algerian-born Camus (1913–60) moved to Paris in 1935 and lived here until his death. 7 Henry Miller Miller (1891–1980) showed the seedier side of Paris in his novel Tropic of Cancer (1934). 8 Nancy Mitford The author of The Pursuit of Love (1945) and other novels, Mitford (1904–73) lived in Paris from 1943 until her death. 9 James Joyce Joyce (1882–1941) lived in Paris from 1920 to 1940. Ulysses was published here in 1922 by Shakespeare and Co. 10 Milan Kundera Czech-born Kundera (b.1929) moved to Paris in 1978, writing The Unbearable Lightness of Being here.
Painting of Nana by Edouard Manet
46 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Historic Buildings des Invalides 1 Hôtel See pp38–9. 2 Versailles Louis XIV turned his father’s old hunting lodge into the largest palace in Europe and moved his court here in 1678. It was the royal residence for more than a century until Louis XVI and his queen Marie-Antoinette fled during the Revolution (see p155).
3 Conciergerie Originally home to the keeper
of the king's mansion and guards of the Palais de Justice, the Conciergerie was turned into a jail at the end of the 14th century. It took its place in history during the Revolution, when more than 4,000 citizens (including Marie-Antoinette) were held prisoner here, half of whom were guillotined. It remained a prison until 1914 (see p79).
de Ville 4 Hôtel MAP P3 4 Pl de l’Hôtel de Ville, •
75001 • 01 42 76 40 40 • Open for group tours and temporary exhibitions (booking essential: 01 42 76 54 04) Paris’s city hall sports an elaborate façade, with ornate stonework, statues and a turreted roof. It is a 19th-century reconstruction of the original town hall, which was burned down during the Paris Hôtel de Ville façade
Central courtyard of the Hôtel Dieu
Commune of 1871 (see p43). Though the pedestrianized square in front is pleasant now, it was once the site of gruesome executions: Ravaillac, assassin of Henri IV, was quartered alive here in 1610.
Dieu 5 Hôtel MAP N4 1 Pl du Parvis •
Notre-Dame, 75004 The Hôtel Dieu, now the hospital for central Paris, was built on the site of a foundling home in 1866–78; the original 12th-century building on the Ile de la Cité was demolished during the urban renewal schemes of the 19th century. A monument in the courtyard commemorates a courageous battle here in 1944 when Paris police held out against the Nazis.
de Justice 6 Palais The enormous building that
now houses the French law courts and judiciary dates back as far as Roman times and was the royal
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palace until the 14th century, when Charles V moved the court to the Marais. During the Revolution, thousands were sentenced to death in the Première Chambre Civile, allegedly the former bedroom of Louis IX (see p80).
de l’Elysée 7 Palais This imposing palace has been
the official residence of the President of the French Republic since 1873. It was built as a private mansion in 1718 and was owned by Madame de Pompadour, mistress of Louis XV, who extended the English-style gardens as far as the ChampsElysées. After the Battle of Waterloo in 1815, Napoleon signed his second and final abdication here (see p113).
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house was also established here in 1469. After suppression during the Revolution it became the University of Paris (see p125).
du Luxembourg 0 Palais MAP L6 15 Rue de Vaugirard, •
75006 • 01 42 34 20 00 • Open for reserved tours only ([email protected]); gardens open dawn–dusk daily Marie de Médicis had architect Salomon de Brosse model this palace after her childhood home, the Pitti Palace in Florence. Shortly after its completion she was exiled by her son, Louis XIII. It was seized from the Crown during the Revolution to become a prison and it now houses the French Senate. Nearby is the Musée du Luxembourg.
Royal 8 Palais MAP L1 Pl du Palais Royal, •
75005 • Closed to the public This former royal palace now houses State offices. It was built by Cardinal Richelieu in 1632, passing to the Crown on his death 10 years later, and was the childhood home of Louis XIV. The dukes of Orléans acquired it in the 18th century.
Sorbonne 9 La The city’s great university had
humble beginnings in 1253 as a college for 16 poor students to study theology. France’s first printing
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48 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Places of Worship 1 Notre-Dame See pp20–23. 2 Sacré-Coeur See pp26–7. 3 Sainte-Chapelle Although this lovely chapel
is no longer used for worship, the soaring stained-glass windows encourage reverence (see pp36–7).
du Dôme 4 Eglise The final resting place of
Napoleon Bonaparte is the beautiful Dôme Church in the Hôtel des Invalides complex – an elaborate monument in French Classical style. Built as the chapel for the resident soldiers of the Invalides, its ornate high altar is in stark contrast to the solemn marble chapels surrounding the crypt, which hold the tombs of French military leaders. Its golden dome can be seen for miles around (see pp38–9).
Panthéon 5 The Modelled on the Pantheon in
Rome, this domed late 18th-century church only served as a house of worship for two years, before becoming a monument and St-Eustache
Façade of La Madeleine
burial place for the great and the good of the Revolution era. Later distinguished citizens are also buried here (see pp34–5).
Madeleine 6 La MAP D3 Pl de la Madeleine, •
75008 • Open 9:30am–7pm daily (services vary) Designed in the style of a Greek temple in 1764, this prominent church in Paris’s financial district, on the edge of the Opéra Quarter, is one of the city’s most distinctive sights, spectacularly surrounded by 52 Corinthian columns. The church was consecrated to Mary Magdalene in 1845. The bronze doors, which include bas-reliefs of the Ten Commandments, and the Last Judgment on the south pediment are exterior highlights, while the ornate marble and gold interior has many fine statues, including François Rude’s Baptism of Christ. It is also a popular venue for classical concerts.
7 St-Eustache For centuries, this Gothic
edifice was the market church serving the traders of Les Halles. Taking more than 100 years to build, it was finally completed in 1637 and its cavernous interior displays the architectural style of the early Renaissance. Popular Sunday afternoon organ
Places of Worship ❮❮ 49 recitals and other classical concerts take place in this wonderfully atmospheric setting (see p85).
There is also a peaceful interior courtyard where visitors can sit and sip a glass of mint tea (see p136).
Synagogue 8 Grande de la Victoire
0 St-Sulpice Outstanding frescoes in the
Chapel of the Angels by Eugène Delacroix are the highlight of this 17th-century church’s otherwise sober interior. With more than 6,500 pipes, its organ, designed by JeanFrançois Chalgrin in 1776, is one of the largest in the world. The novelist Victor Hugo married Adèle Foucher here in 1822 (see p125).
MAP E2 • 44 Rue de la Victoire, 75009 Open Mon–Fri for group tours (call 01 45 26 95 36) Built in the late 19th century, this elaborate synagogue is the second largest in Europe. The building is open only to those wishing to attend services and to groups who have arranged a visit in advance. Other smaller synagogues can be found in the Marais, which has long had a large Jewish community, including one at 10 rue Pavée, built in 1913 by Hector Guimard, the architect who designed the city’s magnificent Art Nouveau metro stations. •
de Paris 9 Mosquée The city’s Grand Mosque was
built during the 1920s as a tribute to North African Muslims who gave military support to France during World War I. Its beautiful HispanoMoorish architecture, including a minaret, was executed by craftsmen brought over from North Africa.
St-Sulpice church organ
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50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Museums National 4 Musée du Moyen Age
The Lady and the Unicorn, Musée National du Moyen Age
Musée du Louvre
1 French and Italian sculpture, Greek and Roman antiquities and paintings from the 12th to the 19th centuries are just some of the highlights of the world’s largest museum (see pp12–15).
Carnavalet 2 Musée Housed in a grand Marais
mansion, this museum showcases the history of Paris. The collection includes painting, sculpture and antique furniture, recreating private residences of the 16th and 17th centuries. There is also a poignant collection of mementoes from the Revolution, as well as a wonderful French garden (see p94).
des Arts 3 Musée Décoratifs
Set over nine levels, adjoining the west end of the Louvre’s Richelieu Wing, this decorative arts museum showcases furniture and tableware from the 12th century to the present. The breathtaking anthology of pieces ranges from Gothic panelling and Renaissance porcelain to 1970s carpets and chairs by Philippe Starck. Also part of the museum is the Musée de la Mode et du Textile, which mounts fashion exhibitions, and the Musée de la Publicité, which has exhibitions on advertising (see p104).
This splendid museum dedicated to the art of the Middle Ages is known by several names, including the Musée de Cluny after the beautiful mansion in which it is housed, and the Thermes de Cluny after the Roman baths adjoining the museum. Highlights include the famous “Lady and the Unicorn” tapestries, medieval stained glass and exquisite gold crowns and jewellery (see p126).
du quai Branly 5 Musée In a city dominated by Western art, this museum housing 300,000 artifacts (of which 3,500 are on display at any one time) tips the balance in favour of arts from Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. Must-sees include the African instruments. The striking Jean Nouvel-designed building is an attraction in itself (see p120).
National 6 Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle
Paris’s Natural History Museum in the Jardin des Plantes contains a fascinating collection of animal skeletons, plant fossils, minerals and gemstones. Its highlight is the magnificent Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, which depicts the changing interaction between man and nature during the evolution of life on Earth (see p60 & p135). Stegosaurus model, Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle
Museums ❮❮ 51 and other decorative arts, amassed by the founders of the Samaritaine department store, including paintings by Rembrandt, Reynolds and other masters (see p93).
de l’Architecture 9 Cité et du Patrimoine
The Cité de l’Architecture and the Musée des Monuments Français showcase French architectural heritage and have become one of the world’s great architectural centres. The Galeries des Moulages houses models of great French cathedrals (see p141).
Jacquemart0 Musée André
Set in an elegant private mansion, this museum was once the home of Edouard André and his artist wife Nélie Jacquemart. The museum houses their spectacular personal art collection, which features works by Boucher, Botticelli, Rembrandt and Fragonard, as well as excellent temporary exhibits (see p113).
Musée des Arts et Métiers
des Arts 7 Musée et Métiers MAP G3 • 60 Rue Réaumur, 75003 Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9:30pm Thu) • Closed 1 May, 25 Dec • Admission charge • www.arts-etmetiers.net Housed in the Abbaye de St-Martindes-Champs, this industrial design museum is a fascinating repository of printing machines, vintage cars, music boxes, early flying machines, automatons and other inventions. •
Cognacq-Jay 8 Musée The Hôtel Donon is a fine
setting for this superb collection of 18th-century art, furniture, porcelain
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52 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
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d’Orsay 1 Musée See pp16–19. Picasso 2 Musée After a five-year renovation,
the beautifully restored Hôtel Salé (see p98) was reopened in 2014 to showcase this extensive collection of paintings, sculptures, drawings and other masterpieces by Pablo Picasso (1881–1973). Large sculptures adorn the garden and courtyard while, inside the gorgeous 17th-century mansion, twice as much as before of the collection is now on display (see p93). Be sure not to miss Picasso’s own collection of paintings, including
works by Cézanne, Renoir, Matisse and others of his contemporaries, located on the third floor.
Rodin 3 Musée On a sunny day, head
straight for the gardens of the Musée Rodin, next to the Hôtel des Invalides complex, to enjoy some of the French sculptor’s most famous works, including The Thinker and The Burghers of Calais, while strolling among the shady trees and rose bushes. Auguste Rodin (1840–1917) lived and worked for nine years in the beautiful 18th-century Hôtel Biron, where the rest of the collection is housed. The museum reopened in autumn 2015 following a three-year renovation project and a complete reorganization of the collection (see p120).
de l’Orangerie 4 Musée MAP D3 Jardin des Tuileries, •
The Thinker, Musée Rodin
75001 • Open 9am–6pm Wed–Mon • Closed 1 May, 14 Jul (am), 25 Dec • Admission charge • www.museeorangerie.fr The prime exhibits here are eight of Monet’s waterlily canvases (see p16) and the gallery, located in a corner of the Tuileries, was renovated in 2006 to improve their display. The WalterGuillaume collection covers works by Matisse, Picasso, Modigliani and other modern masters from 1870 to 1930.
Art Galleries ❮❮ 53 National 7 Musée d’Art Moderne MAP P2 • Pl Georges Pompidou, 75004 • Open 11am–10pm Wed–Mon • Admission charge The revolutionary Pompidou Centre is the perfect home for France’s Modern Art Museum. It features fascinating works across several levels. Level 5 retraces the history of modern art (between 1905 and 1965) before leading to the contemporary collection on level 4 (see pp32–3). Fondation Louis Vuitton
Musée Maillol Louis Vuitton 8 Works of the French artist 5 Fondation 8 Ave du Mahatma Gandhi, Aristide Maillol, including his Bois de Boulogne, 75116 • Opening hours vary according to exhibitions and events • Admission charge • www.fondationlouisvuitton.fr Close to the Jardin d’Acclimatation in the Bois de Boulogne (see p159), Frank Gehry’s dramatic glass structure contains a gallery and event space hosting contemporary arts exhibitions. A shuttle to the arts centre leaves Place Charles de Gaulle every 15 minutes (tickets €1).
de Paume 6 Jeu MAP D3 1 Pl de la Concorde, •
75008 • Open 11am–9pm Tue, 11am–7pm Wed–Sun • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Admission charge • www.jeudepaume.org This gallery is one of the finest exhibition spaces in the city, set within a 19th-century real-tennis court (jeu de paume). It has a strong reputation for showcasing outstanding photography, film and video installations.
drawings, engravings, paintings and plastercasts, are the focal point of this museum, which was created by his model, Dina Vierny. Other major artists feature in temporary exhibitions (see p127).
Européenne de 9 Maison la Photographie If you’re a photography fan, don’t miss this splendid gallery in the Marais. Its exhibitions range from portraits to documentary work, retrospectives to contemporary photographers (see p95).
de Tokyo 0 Palais MAP B4 13 Ave du Président •
Wilson, 75116 • Open noon– midnight Wed–Mon • Admission charge • www.palaisdetokyo.com Dedicated to contemporary art, this lively museum in the Chaillot Quarter, hosts regularly changing exhibitions and installations by international artists.
Palais de Tokyo, built for the World’s Fair in 1937
54 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Riverfront Sights
Eiffel Tower and the Seine, viewed from Pont Alexandre III
Tower 1 Eiffel Although the top of the Eiffel
Tower can be seen above rooftops across the city, one of the best views of this Paris landmark is from the Seine. The Pont d’Iéna lies at the foot of the tower, bridging the river to link it to the Trocadéro Gardens. The tower, illuminated at night, is a highlight of a dinner cruise on the Seine (see pp24–5).
de Chaillot 2 Palais The curved arms of the Palais
de Chaillot encircling the Trocadéro Gardens can be seen from the Seine. In the centre of the gardens magnificent fountains spout from the top of a long pool lined with statues, while two huge water cannons spray their charges back towards the river and the Eiffel Tower on the opposite bank (see p141).
the Pont de l’Alma, the bridge over the tunnel where Diana, Princess of Wales, was killed in an automobile crash in 1997. The Liberty Flame has now become her unofficial memorial and is often draped with notes and flowers laid in her honour.
Palais 4 Grand and Petit Palais
Gracing either side of the magnificent Pont Alexandre III are these two splendid exhibition halls, built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900. The iron Art Nouveau skeleton of the Grand Palais is topped by an enormous glass roof, which is most impressive when illuminated at night. The Petit Palais is smaller but similar in style, with a dome and many Classical features (see p111).
Flame 3 Liberty MAP C3
A replica of the New York Statue of Liberty’s torch was erected here in 1987 by the International Herald Tribune to mark their centenary and honour the freedom fighters of the French Resistance during World War II. It is located on the right bank of
Liberty Flame by Pont de l’Alma
Riverfront Sights ❮❮ 55
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Alexandre III 5 Pont 9 Conciergerie The most beautiful bridge in This huge and imposing Paris is the Pont Alexandre III, a riot of Art Nouveau decoration including cherubs, wreaths, lamps and other elaborate statuary. Built for the Universal Exhibition of 1900, it leads to the Grand Palais and Petit Palais. There are wonderful views of the Invalides complex and the ChampsElysées from the bridge (see p112).
building, which served as a notorious prison during the French Revolution, commands the western end of the Ile de la Cité. The magnificent building retains some of the few medieval features on the island, including a torture chamber, kitchens, a clock and the twin towers that rise above the Quai de l’Horloge (see p79).
Church 6 Dôme An impressive view of the
0 Notre-Dame The great cathedral is never
Eglise de Dôme in the Hôtel des Invalides complex can be had from the Pont Alexandre III. The golden dome beckons visitors down the long parkway lined with streetlamps and statues (see pp38–9).
more majestic than when viewed from the Left Bank of the Seine. It rises at the eastern end of the Ile de la Cité above the remains of the ancient tribes who first settled Paris in the 3rd century BC (see pp20–23).
du Louvre 7 Musée This grand museum stretches along the river from the Pont Royal to the Pont des Arts. The Denon Wing, which can be seen from the Seine, was largely built during the reigns of Henri IV and Louis XIII in the late 16th and early 17th centuries (see pp12–15).
d’Orsay 8 Musée The view of this exceptional
modern art gallery from the Right Bank of the Seine is one of its finest angles, showing off the arched terminals, great clock faces and grand façade of this former railway station, built in 1898–1900. Architect Victor Laloux designed it specifically to harmonize with the Louvre and Tuileries Quarter across the river (see pp16–19).
Notre-Dame viewed from the Seine
56 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Parks and Gardens
View from the terrace of the Jardin du Luxembourg
du Luxembourg 1 Jardin Parisians love this centrally
located park, set around the Palais du Luxembourg. The sweeping terrace is a great place for peoplewatching, while locals sunbathe around the Octagonal Lake or sail toy boats in the water. Statues are dotted throughout the grounds, and there is a café (see p125).
des Tuileries 2 Jardin Now officially part of the
Louvre, these gardens were laid out in the 17th century as part of the old Palais de Tuileries. They stretch along the Seine between the Louvre and Place de la Concorde. The walkways are lined with lime and chestnut trees. Statues include bronze figures by Aristide Maillol (see p103).
des Plantes 3 Jardin Established as a medicinal
a boating lake and paths for cycling, jogging and strolling. There are three formal gardens, lakes and waterfalls, and even two horse-racing tracks. It’s a good spot for a break from the city bustle (see p156).
de Vincennes 5 Bois Another great escape from
the city, this park is to the east of Paris what the Bois de Boulogne is to the west. A former royal hunting ground, it was landscaped in the 1860s. Now it features ornamental lakes and waterfalls, a zoo, a funfair and horse-racing tracks (see p156).
Monceau 6 Parc The most fashionable green space in Paris, full of well-heeled residents of the nearby mansions and apartments. The lush landscaping dates from the 18th
herb garden for the king in 1635, these vast botanical gardens are a wonderfully tranquil spot. Paths are lined with statuary and mature trees, including the oldest in Paris, grown from the stump of an Acacia robinia dating from 1636 (see p135).
de Boulogne 4 Bois At the weekends, Parisians
head for this vast park on the western edge of the city, which has
Classical colonnade in Parc Monceau
Parks and Gardens ❮❮ 57 century, and some architectural follies, such as the Classical colonnade, survive (see p157).
TOP 10 FOUNTAINS
du Palais Royal 7 Jardins MAP L1 Pl du Palais Royal, •
75001 These lovely gardens are enclosed by the 18th-century arcades of the Palais Royal (see p104). Modern sculptures include Daniel Buren’s controversial striped columns.
Clichy-Batignolles 8 Parc 147 Rue Cardinet, 75017 Metro Brochant Away from the tourist crush, this park in the heart of the laid-back Batignolles neighbourhood was developed with an eye to ecology and biodiversity. Locals come to skate, play pétanque, tend the community gardens and laze on the lawns, while wildlife and rare flora thrive in the wetlands-like environment. •
Parc Montsouris
9 Blvd Jourdan, 75014
Metro Cité Universitaire Located south of Montparnasse, this large park in central Paris is popular with city residents. It was laid out in the English style, atop an old granite quarry, by landscape architect Adolphe Alphand between 1865 and 1878. Hemingway (see p45) and other writers and artists frequented the park in the mid-20th century. It has a jogging path, lake and a bandstand. •
des Buttes 0 Parc Chaumont Rue Manin, 75019 • Metro Buttes-Chaumont The great city planner Baron Haussmann created this wonderful retreat northeast of the city centre in 1867, from what was formerly a rubbish dump. His architects built artificial cliffs, waterfalls, streams and a lake complete with an island crowned by a Roman-style temple. There’s a trendy bar, Rosa Bonheur, which remains open late. The park is undergoing renovation and is expected to reopen in 2017 (see p61).
Observatory Fountain 1 Agam Fountain La Défense RER La Défense Jewish architect Yaacov Agam designed this fountain of water and lights. •
2 Four Seasons Fountain MAP C4 Rue de Grenelle Paris in female form looks down on figures representing the Seine and Marne rivers, designed in 1739 by sculptor Edme Bouchardon. •
3 Fontaine des Innocents MAP N2 Square des Innocents Carved by Jean Goujon in 1547, this is Paris’s only Renaissance fountain. •
4 Medici Fountain MAP L6 Jardin du Luxembourg This ornate 17th-century fountain with a pond was built for Marie de Médicis. •
5 Molière Fountain MAP E3 Rue de Richelieu This 19th-century fountain honours the French playwright. •
6 Observatory Fountain MAP L6 Jardin du Luxembourg Four bronze statues representing the continents hold aloft a globe. •
7 Châtelet Fountain MAP N3 Pl du Châtelet The two sphinxes of this 1808 fountain are appropriate to commemorate Napoleon’s victory in Egypt. •
8 Stravinsky Fountain Birds squirt water from this colourful Pompidou Centre fountain (see p32). 9 Trocadéro Fountains Spouting towards the Eiffel Tower, these fountains are illuminated at night (see p24). 10 Versailles Fountains The fountains at Versailles (see p155) flow to music at weekends in spring and in summer.
58 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Off the Beaten Track Louvre 3 Little-visited While the crowds flock to the
Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, canny visitors set out to discover other parts of the Louvre’s collections, such as the Islamic arts section. Opened in 2012, it includes beautiful Iznik tiles and exquisite glass, gold and ivory objects from Andalusia, Iraq and India – all under a stunning gold filigree roof (see pp12–15).
de Paris 4 Pinacothèque MAP D3 28 Pl de la Madeleine
Wall of skulls and bones, Catacombs
•
and 8 rue Vignon, 75008 • 01 42 68 02 01 • 10:30am–6:30pm daily (to 8:30pm Wed & Fri) • Admission charge • www.pinacotheque.com This privately run gallery puts on much-acclaimed exhibitions and also has a permanent collection of around one hundred paintings, including works by Rembrandt and Picasso. The artworks are hung by theme, such as “landscape”, just as a private collector might display his or her paintings.
1 Catacombs 1 Ave du Colonel Henri Rol-Tanguy, 75014 • 01 43 22 47 63 • Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun • Closed 1 May • Admission charge • www.catacombes.paris.fr The catacombs are an underground warren of tunnels, filled with the bones of some six million Parisians, brought here from 1785 to 1865 as a solution to the problem of overflowing cemeteries. Aside from the macabre sight of walls lined with skulls and bones, it’s a thrill to enter the tunnels, part of a vast quarry network that underlies the city. Come early, as there’s often a queue: limited numbers of visitors are allowed in at a time.
Barge Cruise 5 Canal MAP J2 12 Port de Solferino, •
75007 • Cruises dates vary, check website for details • Admission charge • www.pariscanal.com A great way to see a different side of Paris is to take a barge along the Seine, the Marne river and Canal St-Martin. Paris Canal boats depart 0 km
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Starting near the Bastille Opera House (see p65) and ending at Bois de Vincennes, this 4-km (2.5mile) walkway, much of it high above the streets on a former railway viaduct, is a wonderful way to see a little-visited part of the city. Planted all along with trees and flowers, the path runs past tall mansion blocks, whose decorative mouldings and balconies (not to mention smart interiors) are a treat to see close up.
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Off the Beaten Track ❮❮ 59 from the quay outside the Musée d’Orsay (see pp16–19) and make their way westwards to the island of Chatou, once frequented by Impressionist painters, or eastwards past NotreDame to Chennevières-sur-Marne, a favourite haunt of Pissaro.
8 Buttes-aux-Cailles Metro Corvisart
The Butte-aux-Cailles quarter, in the southeast of the city, is a bit like a mini-Montmartre, with its pretty cobbled streets and old-fashioned streetlamps. The main Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles with its restaurants and bohemian bars buzzes well into the night.
Village 9 Bercy 28 Rue François Truffaut, 75012 • Metro Cour St-Emilion www.bercyvillage.com The district of Bercy is where barges from all over France used to deliver wine to the capital. The former warehouses, a handsome ensemble of ochre-coloured stone buildings, have been converted into shops, restaurants and, fittingly, wine bars. It’s well worth a wander, especially on Sundays when shops in most other parts of Paris are closed. •
Barge on Canal St-Martin
Centquatre-Paris 6 Le 5 Rue Curial, 75019 01 53 35 •
50 00 • Metro Riquet • Open noon– 7pm Tue–Fri, 11am–7pm Sat & Sun • Admission charge • www.104.fr The “104” is a huge arts centre, housed in a converted 19th-century funeral parlour with a lofty glass roof. It contains numerous artists’ studios and workshops, and puts on excellent exhibitions and installations, as well as music, dance, cinema and theatre.
Floral de Paris 7 Parc Route de la Pyramide, 94300 Metro Chateau de Vincennes 9.30am–8pm daily, winter till dusk • Admission charge Jun–Sep: Wed, Sat & Sun, otherwise free • www. parcfloraldeparis.com Set within the Bois de Vincennes, this lovely park has wonderful displays of camellias, rhododendrons, ferns and irises. It hosts horticultural exhibitions and free jazz concerts in summer and has plenty to appeal to children, including an adventure park.
Nissim 0 Musée de Camondo MAP C2 • 63 Rue de Monceau, 75008 • 01 53 89 06 50 • Open 10am– 5:30pm Wed–Sun • Admission charge Wealthy art collector Count Moïse de Camondo had this grand mansion built to house his superb collection of 18th-century art. The rooms are full of tapestries, paintings, gilded furniture and Sèvres porcelain. As interesting as the artworks is the portrait that emerges of a well-to-do family, beset by tragedy (it is named for his son, killed in World War I) and ultimately fell victim to Auschwitz.
• •
Musée Nissim de Camondo
60 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Children’s Attractions other stuffed animals rise out of a recreated savannah, and a huge whale skeleton hangs from the ceiling, while special displays help tell the story of the development of life on Earth. Nature workshops are also held for children during school holidays (see p135).
de la Magie 5 Musée et des Automates
Musée de la Magie et des Automates
Paris 1 Disneyland® The French offspring of
America’s favourite theme park is a clone of its parent, and has now been joined by the Walt Disney Studios® complex. Both have big queues, so arrive early. There are rides for children of all ages and most adults are equally enchanted (see p155).
MAP R4 • 11 Rue St-Paul, 75004 • 01 42 72 13 26 • Open 2–7pm Wed, Sat, Sun (daily during school holidays, except Jul & Aug) • Admission charge • www.museedelamagie.com Kids are enchanted by this museum of magic, located in the cellars of the former home of the Marquis de Sade. Magicians conjure up shows every half hour involving optical illusions, card tricks and lots of audience participation. Exhibits include working automata and memorabilia of master magicians such as Houdini (1874–1926).
Astérix 2 Parc de la Villette Plailly, 60128 RER B to Roissy 6 Parc CDG1, then shuttle from A3 Open One of the city’s top children’s •
•
Apr–Aug: 10am–6pm Mon–Thu, 10am–7pm Fri, Sat & Sun; Sep–Oct: 10am–6pm Sat & Sun • Admission charge • www.parcasterix.fr There’s not just the Gaul of Asterix and Obelix to discover here, but six worlds, including ancient Greece and Rome, and all with the zany spin and charm of Goscinny and Uderzo’s beloved comic books. Dozens of great attractions include one of Europe’s longest roller coasters.
attractions, with activities for all ages. The Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, a high-tech hands-on science museum, gets star billing, while the Cité des Enfants is a science and nature attraction for younger children. Kids also love the Argonaute, a real 1950s submarine that voyaged around the world 10 times, the Géode with its IMAX screen and the futuristic outdoor playground (see p156).
Tower 3 Eiffel A trip to the top is one of
the most memorable activities for children in Paris (see pp24–5).
Galerie 4 Grande de l’Evolution
The most exciting and imaginatively designed section in the Natural History Museum is the Great Gallery of Evolution. Elephants, giraffes and
Parc de la Villette
Children’s Attractions ❮❮ 61 d’Acclimatation 7 Jardin MAP A2 Bois de Boulogne, •
TOP 10 MERRY-GO-ROUNDS
75016 • Open 10am–7pm daily (6pm Sep–Apr) • Admission charge • www.jardindacclimatation.fr This amusement park at the north end of the Bois de Boulogne (see p156) has roller coasters, pony rides and puppet shows. An electric train, “le Petit Train”, runs to the park from Porte Maillot.
des Arts Forains 8 Musée Pavillons de Bercy, 53 Ave des Terroirs de France, 75012 • Metro Cour Saint-Emilion • See website for opening dates • 01 43 40 16 22 • Admission charge • www.artsforains.com This private museum in a former wine warehouse in Bercy Village (see p59) is a secret wonderland filled with vintage fairground attractions, automata, theatre props, antique merry-go-rounds and a 1920s hall of mirrors. It is open by appointment for guided tours all year round, but visitors are welcome without prior reservations for 10 days over the Christmas and New Year period to try out the traditional fairground games and ride on the carousels.
du Luxembourg 9 Jardin MAP L6 Jardin du •
Luxembourg, 75006 • Open dawn–dusk daily The park has tennis courts, puppet shows, donkey rides and a good playground (for a fee). But most fun of all is the traditional Parisian pastime of sailing model boats in the large Octagonal Lake and riding the 19th-century carousel.
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Parc des Buttes Chaumont
Rue Manin, 75019 • Open 7am–10pm daily (8pm Sep–Apr) The highest park in Paris is great for a family picnic. Kids will enjoy exploring the rugged terrain with its cliffs, beaches, suspended bridges and waterfalls, as well as the boating facilities, pony rides and puppet shows.
Carousel by the Eiffel Tower 1 Jardin des Plantes The curious Dodo Manège features extinct animals including horned, giraffe-like sivatherium (see p135). 2 Jardin du Luxembourg Children can play the traditional French game of rings on this historic 1879 merry-go-round. 3 Montmartre At the foot of Sacré-Coeur (see pp26–7), this grand double-decker merry-go-round has gorgeous painted horses and carriages. 4 Parc de la Villette An airplane, a hot-air balloon and a Tintin-style space rocket join the wooden horses on this two-storey merry-go-round. 5 Jardin d’Acclimatation A traditional carousel with wooden horses is just one of the collection of merry-go-rounds here. 6 Jardins du Trocadéro A wonderful hot-air balloon graces this dual-platform merry-go-round (see p142). 7 Hôtel de Ville Lucky riders jump on whenever this seasonal merry-go-round appears in the heart of the town (see p46). 8 Eiffel Tower The Parisian icon (see pp24–5) provides a dramatic backdrop to this solarpowered merry-go-round. 9 Parc Monceau This charming little carousel is much loved by the local children (see p157). 10 Jardin des Tuileries Set among the trees, antique wooden horses spin round this enchanting merry-go-round (see p103).
Following pages Interior of the Opéra National de Paris Garnier
64 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Entertainment Venues National 1 Opéra de Paris Garnier
Going to the opera here is not just a night out, but a whole experience. The theatre has returned to hosting opera after a spell as a dance-only venue. The vast stage can hold a cast of 450, and the building itself is an example of excessive opulence, complete with grand staircase, mirrors and marble (see p104).
2 FoliesBergère MAP F2 • 32 Rue Richer, 75009 • 08 92 68 16 50 • www. foliesbergere.com The epitome of Parisian cabaret, the Folies were, for a time, little more than a troupe of Poster for the Folies Bergère high-kicking, barebreasted dancers. Today, the venue hosts everything from stand-up comedy to pop and rock concerts.
Lido 3 The MAP C2 116 Bis, Ave des •
Champs-Elysées, 75008 • 01 40 76 56 10 • www.lido.fr Home to world-famous troupe of long-legged dancers the Bluebell Girls, the fabulous special effects here include aerial ballets and an
Exterior of the Moulin Rouge
on-stage skating rink. There are many who regard this dinner-cabaret as an essential Parisian experience.
Crazy Horse Paris 4 Le MAP C3 12 Ave •
George V, 75008 • 01 47 23 32 32 • www.lecrazyhorseparis.com More risqué than the other big-name cabaret shows, the Saloon has a reputation for putting on the most professional as well as the sexiest productions. Striptease features, along with glamorous dancing girls and other cabaret acts. The computer-controlled lighting effects are spectacular.
Cirque d’Hiver 5 Le MAP H3 110 Rue •
Amelot, 75011 • 01 47 00 28 81 • www.cirquedhiver.com Worth visiting for the façade alone, this whimsical, circular listed building, dating from 1852, plays host to the traditional Cirque Bouglione, complete with acts such as trapeze artists, clowns, jugglers and tame tigers.
Rouge 6 Moulin The home of the Can-Can,
Toulouse-Lautrec immortalized the theatre’s dancers on canvas during the belle époque and the results are on display in the Musée d’Orsay (see p17). The show still has all the
Entertainment Venues ❮❮ 65 razzamatazz that has been dazzling audiences since 1889. The pre-show dinner is optional (see p148).
TOP 10 JAZZ CLUBS
Française 7 Comédie MAP L1 1 Pl Colette, 75001 •
01 44 58 15 15 • www.comediefrancaise.fr Paris’s oldest theatre was founded in 1680 and is still the only one with its own repertory company, staging both classical and modern drama (in French). The theatre has been based in the current building since 1799. Around the corner from the main box office, a special window opens 45 minutes before curtain-up, selling reduced-price under-27 and concessions tickets. •
8
Opéra National de Paris Bastille
MAP H5 • Pl de la Bastille, 75012 • 08 92 89 90 90 (+33 1 71 25 24 23 from abroad) • www.operadeparis.fr Opened in 1992 as the largest opera house in the world, this modern building was heavily criticized, not least for its acoustics and poor facilities. However, this is still the best place to see opera in Paris.
du 9 Théâtre Châtelet MAP N3 • 1 Pl du Châtelet, 75001 • 01 40 28 28 40 • www.chatelet-theatre.com The city’s largest concert hall and fourth largest auditorium was built in 1862. Its repertoire covers classical music, ballet and opera, as well as Broadway shows and popular Sunday morning chamber music concerts.
de la Ville 0 Théâtre MAP N3 2 Pl du •
Châtelet, 75004 • 01 42 74 22 77 • www.theatredelaville-paris.com Once known as the Sarah Bernhardt Theatre, in honour of the great Parisian actress who performed here and managed the theatre in the 19th century, today it puts on an eclectic range of modern dance, music shows and some classical theatre.
Performance at New Morning 1 Sunset-Sunside MAP N2 60 Rue des Lombards A double serving of late-night jazz: acoustic and modern at street level; electric, fusion and groove in the cellar. •
2 Au Duc des Lombards MAP N2 42 Rue des Lombards The best overseas jazz artists come here to play with home-grown talent. •
3 Baiser Salé MAP N2 58 Rue des Lombards Jazz, blues and World Music are the mainstays at this tiny cellar club. •
4 Caveau des Oubliettes MAP F5 52 Rue Garlande Jazz in an ex-dungeon, with free jam sessions on Tuesday–Thursday & Sunday. •
5 Autour de Midi de Minuit MAP E1 11 Rue Lepic Mostly swing but some modern jazz as well, below an excellent bistro. •
6 Jazz Club Etoile MAP A2 81 Blvd Gouvion-St-Cyr Features visiting African-American musicians. Jazzy Brunch on Sunday. •
7 New Morning MAP F2 7–9 Rue des Petites Ecuries An eclectic mix of music, with jam sessions and impromptu performances. •
8 Le Petit Journal Montparnasse MAP D6 13 Rue du Commandant Mouchotte Doors close at 2am, but open again five hours later, mainly for big band jazz. •
9 Le Petit Journal St-Michel MAP M5 71 Blvd St-Michel New Orleans-style swinging jazz in a lively Latin Quarter cellar. •
10 Caveau de la Huchette MAP N4 5 Rue de la Huchette Ignore the tourist-trap setting – it’s worth every penny of the entrance fee. •
66 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Fine Dining
Elegant interior of Taillevent
1 L’Astrance MAP B4 4 Rue Beethoven, •
75016 • 01 40 50 84 40 • Closed Sat– Mon, Feb, Aug, 1 week Nov (call to check) • No disabled access • €€€ There is probably no table in Paris that is more coveted than one in this sober 25-seat dining room, with its set menus at €70 (for lunch) or €230 (for dinner), orchestrated by young culinary genius Pascal Barbot. You’ll need to book a month ahead for lunch, two months for dinner.
2
Jean-François Piège – Le Grand Restaurant
MAP D3 • 7 Rue Aguesseau, 75008 01 53 05 00 00 • €€€ One the most exciting restaurants in Paris, mostly thanks to Piège’s masterful cooking, which may include dishes such as a tower of spaghetti with belly pork and truffles, and blue lobster cooked in fig leaves.
•
4 Taillevent Taillevent’s atmospheric oak-
panelled dining room is frequented by a mix of businessmen and romantic couples. Dishes such as rex rabbit with Cremona mustard and black radish feature on the seasonal menu and there’s an exceptional wine list. You need to book well ahead to dine here (see p117).
Jules Verne 5 Le Now in the perfectionist hands
of world-famous chef Alain Ducasse, this restaurant on the second floor of the Eiffel Tower has entered the 21st century. It has been revamped with a futuristic brown decor and there is a suitably luxurious menu, replete with truffles in winter. Service is excellent and the panoramic views are simply breathtaking, but you will need to book in advance (see p123).
3 Septime 80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 01 43 67 38 29 • Closed Mon L, Sat & Sun • €€€ Chef Bertrand Grébaut trained with Passard before setting up this Michelin-starred bistro serving excellent seasonal dishes. Goodvalue set menus at lunch and dinner. •
Stylish bistro Septime
Fine Dining ❮❮ 67 Ducasse 6 Alain au Plaza Athénée MAP C3 • 25 Ave Montaigne, 75008 01 58 00 22 43 • Closed Mon–Wed L, Sat & Sun • €€€ The star chef’s interpretation of modern haute cuisine – based on fish, vegetables and grains – is served in this glamorous restaurant. •
Chateaubriand 7 Le MAP H3 129 Ave Parmentier, •
75011 • 01 43 57 45 95 • €€€ One of the best restaurants in Paris, Le Chateaubriand provides a relaxed setting for its gastronomic cuisine. Basque chef Iñaki Aizpitarte creates innovative and award-winning dishes for a daily changing menu. Set menus at €70. Book in advance.
Gagnaire 8 Pierre MAP B2 6 Rue Balzac, 75008
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
•
01 58 36 12 50 • No disabled access • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug • €€€ Famous French chef Pierre Gagnaire creates culinary magic at this formal restaurant. Try the foie gras roasted with anchovies and served with red tuna tartare and tamarillo. •
the biodynamic garden, might include beetroot in a hibiscus-salt crust with bitter orange.
de Joël 0 L’Atelier Robuchon MAP E4 • 5 Rue de Montalembert, 75007 • 01 42 22 56 56 • €€€ Take a seat at the lacquered bar to experience a top French chef’s take on contemporary cuisine. Signature dishes are the merlan Colbert (fried whiting), and carbonara with Alsatian cream and bacon.
L’Arpege
9 MAP D4
• 84 Rue de Varenne, 75007 • 01 47 05 09 06 • No disabled access • Closed Sat & Sun • €€€ Alain Passard’s three-Michelin-star restaurant is highly regarded in Paris. Dishes, using produce from
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For a key to restaurant price ranges see p83
68 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Cafés and Bars de Flore 1 Café A hang-out for
de 5 Café la Paix
MAP E3 5 Pl de artists and intellectuals l'Opéra, 75009 since the 1920s, its €€€ regulars have included Salvador Dalí and Albert A grand Parisian café Camus. During World with prices to match, War II Jean-Paul Sartre but it’s worth a visit to and Simone de Beauvoir enjoy the frescoed walls “more or less set up and sumptuous setting, house in the Flore”. designed by Charles Although its prices Garnier, architect of have skyrocketed, its the Opera House across Art Deco decor hasn’t the square (see p104). Café de Flore changed and it’s still a This is another Paris perennial favourite with French landmark with a string of famous filmmakers and literati (see p131). past patrons, and arguably the best millefeuille cakes in town. •
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Prune 2 Chez MAP G2 71 Quai de Valmy, •
75010 • 01 42 41 30 47 • € If you're looking for good coffee, reasonably priced food (including at least one vegetarian dish) and a terrace for canal-side people watching, head to Chez Prune. The restaurant has been a trendy spot for years.
Marly 3 Café MAP L2 93 Rue de Rivoli, •
75001 • € Superbly situated in the Richelieu wing of the Louvre (see p13), this café offers simple but expertly prepared brasserie fare (steaks, salads, steak tartare, club sandwiches) as well as delicious desserts. The dining room has plush decor and velvet armchairs, but the best spot is under the arcade overlooking the glass pyramid and the cour Napoléon.
Closerie des Lilas 6 La The main restaurant here is
expensive, but the bar is a good spot to soak up the atmosphere of this historic site where artists and writers from Baudelaire to Archibald MacLeish have drunk since 1808. Look out for the famous names of visitors etched on the tables in the bar. The busy brasserie also has live piano music in the evenings and attracts a chic crowd (see p161).
Fumoir 7 Le MAP F4 6 Rue de l’Amiral •
de Coligny, 75001 • 01 42 92 00 24 • €€ There are many reasons to drop into this café-bar-restaurant situated next to the Louvre, whether it be to
Deux Magots 4 Les Rival to the neighbouring Flore as a rendezvous for the 20th-century intellectual élite. Hemingway, Oscar Wilde, Djuna Barnes, André Breton and Paul Verlaine were all regulars, and Picasso met his muse Dora Maar here in 1937. Similarly pricey, with outside tables facing the boulevard and the square (see p131).
Pavement tables at Les Deux Magots
Cafés and Bars ❮❮ 69 people-watch from the terrace out front or hide out with a martini in the comfy library at the back. The hot chocolate is heavenly, cocktails are expertly made and the bistro cooking shows Swedish influences. They also serve a great Sunday brunch.
TOP 10 WINE BARS
Jeannette 8 Chez MAP G2 47 Rue du Faubourg •
St-Denis, 75010 • 01 47 70 30 89 • No disabled access • € Although the owners haven’t touched the scruffy vintage decor, this café near Gare de l’Est has become one of the hottest hang-outs in Paris, with a crowd outside to prove it. Inside, the high ceilings, mirrors and old-fashioned booths, as well as reasonably priced food, create a lively atmosphere.
Sterne 9 Caffè MAP H5 47 Passage des •
Panoramas, 75002 • 01 75 43 63 10 • €€–€€€ Within the characterful Passage des Panoramas, this wittily designed restaurant serves some of the best (and priciest) Venetian dishes around. There is as much to look at as there is to eat: at the entrance, a lynx and a wolf wear rhinestone necklaces; inside, a winged rabbit watches as waiters bring out Venetian cichetti (antipasti), fantastic fresh pastas and an excellent veal Milanese. To try what's on offer without busting the budget, book ahead for the reasonably priced set lunch menu (€38). Tasting menus range from €65 to €100.
de la Nouvelle 0 Café Marie MAP N6 19 Rue des Fossés St-Jacques, 75005 • 01 44 07 04 41 • € Quite possibly the quintessential Parisian café, this popular spot near the Sorbonne attracts locals and visitors who come for the lively atmosphere and reliably good, classic dishes written on the chalkboard. The solid wine list includes plenty by the glass or carafe. •
La Belle Hortense exterior 1 La Belle Hortense MAP G4 31 Rue Vieille du Temple 01 48 04 74 60 A wine bar that doubles as a bookshop. •
•
2 L’Avant Comptoir MAP M5 3 Carrefour de l’Odéon 01 44 27 07 97 Jostle around the zinc bar for delicious little bites, and glasses of natural wine. •
•
3 Frenchie Bar à Vins MAP F3 6 Rue du Nil 01 40 39 96 19 A superb international wine list. •
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4 Le Barav MAP R1 6 Rue Charles-François Dupuis 01 48 04 57 59 Well-priced wines in the upper Marais. •
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5 La Garde Robe MAP M2 41 Rue de l’Arbre Sec 01 49 26 90 60 Cheeses, oysters and charcuterie round out the menu of natural wines here. •
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6 Septime La Cave 3 Rue Basfroi 01 43 67 14 87 Quaint wine store of Septime (see p66). •
7 Verjus Bar à Vins MAP E3 47 Rue Montpensier 01 42 97 54 40 This cozy wine bar specializes in independent French winemakers. •
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8 Vivant Cave MAP F2 43 Rue des Petites Ecuries 01 42 46 43 55 Winemakers and chefs gather here. •
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9 Le Baron Rouge MAP H5 1 Rue Théophile Roussel 01 43 43 14 32 An unpretentious, long-time favourite. •
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10 Quedubon MAP H2 22 Rue du Plateau 01 42 38 18 65 A list of over 200 natural wines. •
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For a key to restaurant price ranges see p83
70 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Shops and Markets Printemps 3 Au MAP E2 64 Blvd Haussmann, •
75009 One of Paris’s two top department stores, the iconic Printemps opened in 1864. Its goods range from designer clothing and accessories to mid-range labels and funky fashions, home decor and furniture. The sixth-floor brasserie is crowned with a lovely Art Nouveau stainedglass cupola.
Market 4 Bastille MAP H5 Blvd Richard-Lenoir, •
75011 Every Thursday and Sunday morning, this market stretches along the treelined boulevard that separates the Marais from the Bastille. Sunday is the best day, when locals come to socialize as well as shop for fish, meat, bread and cheese. Some stalls sell North African and other international food.
Galeries Lafayette
Lafayette 1 Galeries MAP E2 40 Blvd Haussmann, •
75009 This expansive store opened in 1894 as a monument to Parisian style, topped by a glorious steel-and-glass dome. Along with designer clothes, there’s a fabulous food hall. The seventh floor has great views.
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MAP P4 • Pl Louis-Lépine, 75004 Dating from 1808, the colourful Marché aux Fleurs – Reine Elisabeth II (flower market) on the Ile de la Cité is the oldest and one of the largest flower markets in Paris. Its blooms brighten up the area between the stark walls of the Conciergerie and Hôtel Dieu from Monday to Saturday – everything from orchids to orange trees. On Sundays it is joined by the Marché aux Oiseaux (bird market).
Some of the most delectable speciality food shops in Paris are dotted around the edges of this square, including the famous
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Shops and Markets ❮❮ 71 Fauchon food hall and the smaller but no less mouthwatering Hédiard. There’s Maille for mustard, Kaspia for caviar, Marquise de Sévigné for chocolates and La Maison de la Truffe for truffles (see p106).
de Buci 6 Rue MAP L4
The artist Picasso reputedly did his shopping at this daily morning market in the heart of St-Germain. The bountiful fruit and vegetable stalls are of high quality but of greater interest are the food shops opening on to the street, which sell specialist and regional fare. You can also buy freshly prepared Italian dishes and delicious pastries.
Rue Mouffetard
7 MAP F6
One of the oldest street markets in Paris winds downhill through the Latin Quarter every morning Tuesday to Sunday. Although this formerly cheap and bohemian market has been discovered as a tourist spot, it retains its charm, the narrow streets lined with food stalls and speciality shops. There are also plenty of good restaurants in the quieter side streets.
Le Bon Marché
8 MAP D5
• 22 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris’s first department store was founded on the Left Bank in 1852, its structure partially designed by Gustave Eiffel (see p25). Today it’s even more hip than its competitors, with an in-store boutique
Le Bon Marché
Stall at Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen
featuring avant-garde fashions. It also has designer clothes, its own line of menswear and the enormous La Grande Epicerie food hall.
aux Puces 9 Marché de St-Ouen Porte de Clignancourt, 75018 • Metro Porte de Clignancourt Every Saturday to Monday the largest antiques market in the world is held here. There are actually several markets here: the oldest, Marché Vernaison, is the most charming. Marché Biron offers a wide range of art, fine furniture, interesting jewellery and paintings.
d’Aligre 0 Marché MAP H5 Pl d’Aligre, 75012 •
Away from the tourist bustle, this market retains its authentic Parisian atmosphere. An indoor hall houses vendors selling cheese, artisan beer, olive oil and charcuterie among other high quality goods. Outside, inexpensive fruit, vegetables and flowers fill the street-side stands each morning from Tuesday to Sunday.
72 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Paris for Free and artifacts, including some fine Art Nouveau pieces. Free lunchtime concerts are held once a month on a Thursday in its auditorium, and there’s a charming inner garden with a café (see p111).
Visits to 4 Free Museums
On the first Sunday of every month admission to the permanent collections of most Paris museums, including the Louvre (Oct–Mar), Pompidou Centre, Musée Rodin and Musée d’Orsay, is free to everyone.
Musée Carnavalet paintings
Carnavalet 1 Musée The permanent collections
at all of Paris’s municipal museums are free, and few are more rewarding than those of the Carnavalet. This museum charts the history of the city of Paris from the Middle Ages up to the belle époque through an extraordinary collection of paintings, sculptures, decorative arts and archaeological finds (see p94).
de Cinéma 2 Festival en Plein Air 229 Ave Jean Jaurès, 75019 • Metro Porte de Pantin • lavillette.com Each summer a giant screen is erected in Parc de la Villette (see p156), showing movies (in the original language, with French subtitles) in the open air every evening for a month. The films, which range from classics to the less well-known, are all free. Deckchairs and blankets are available for hire, and many people bring their own picnic to make an evening of it.
de Ville 5 Hôtel Paris’s city hall hosts regular
excellent, free exhibitions, usually on a Parisian theme; a recent exhibition focused on the Liberation of Paris. In addition, free events often take place on the square in front of the building, including concerts and live screenings of major sporting events (see p46).
de Seine 6 Berges MAP B4–E4 www.lesberges. •
paris.fr The Berges de Seine, the stretch of river between the Musée du quai Branly and Musée d’Orsay, is an attractive, lively promenade with loads of free activities, such as concerts and workshops, board games, a climbing wall and play spaces for children.
des Beaux Arts 3 Musée de la Ville de Paris
The grand Neo-Classical Petit Palais is anything but “little”, and is home to this fascinating collection of art
Berges de Seine
Paris for Free ❮❮ 73 Journées 7 Les du Patrimoine
TOP 10 BUDGET TIPS
www.journeesdupatrimoine. culture.fr On the third weekend of September, many buildings that are normally offlimits, such as the Elysée Palace, are opened up to the public for free.
d’Art Moderne 8 Musée de la Ville de Paris
This museum of modern art, with a forecourt giving onto the Seine, may not rival the Pompidou’s collection, but it’s free and there aren’t the crowds to contend with. Almost all of the major 20th-century artists who worked in France are represented, including Picasso, Braque, Chagall and Modigliani, along with some new modern artists (see p142).
du 9 Cimetière Père Lachaise
Lunch at the bar 1 Sightseeing by bus The bus is a great way of sightseeing cheaply – for example, number 24 takes a scenic route along the Seine. 2 Set-price lunch Fixed price (prix fixe) lunches are usually good value and almost always cost less than evening meals. They can be a great way of dining at a top restaurant without breaking the bank.
It would be easy to while away a whole afternoon at Père Lachaise cemetery, tracking down celebrity graves including those of Oscar Wilde, Chopin and Jim Morrison. With its mossgrown tombs and ancient trees, it’s also an atmospheric and rather romantic place for a stroll (see p156).
3 Cutting transport costs Buying a carnet of tickets, a Mobilis or Paris Visite card will save on transport costs (see p165).
Grave of Frédéric Chopin, Père Lachaise
7 Museum pass With so many museums to visit, the Carte Musées et Monuments offers savings (www.parismuseumpass.com).
4 Lodgings for less It’s almost always cheaper to stay in an apartment, B&B or hostel than at a hotel (see p171). 5 Cut-price entertainment Half-price same-day theatre and concert tickets are sold at kiosks on place de la Madeleine. 6 Sitting at the bar In cafés, it’s often cheaper to have a drink or a snack at the bar than when sitting at a table.
8 Out for breakfast Having breakfast at a café will cost considerably less than at a hotel.
and Choir Recitals 0 Organ Free organ recitals are given at Notre-Dame cathedral (see pp20–21) at 8pm on Saturdays and sometimes on Tuesdays, and at 5:30pm on Sundays in the beautiful church of St-Eustache (see p85), which has one of the finest organs in France.
9 Youth savings State-run museums, including the Louvre, are free for anyone under 18 and EU citizens under 26. 10 Cheaper movies Cinemas in the 5th arrondissement (around the Panthéon) are cheaper than those elsewhere.
74 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything
Festivals and Events
The Tour de France speeding through the streets of Paris
de France 1 Tour www.letour.fr
Don’t miss this summer highlight if you really want to understand the French passion for cycling. Towards the end of July each year, the world’s greatest and most gruelling cycle race approaches Paris. On the final laps the riders pass the Louvre, race along the banks of the Seine, hurtle down the rue de Rivoli and, of course, cross the finish line on the ChampsElysées. Thousands of fans pack the streets to cheer the riders home and see who will win the Yellow Jersey.
Nuit Blanche
2 First weekend Oct
Paris held its first Nuit Blanche in 2002 and the all-night contemporary art event now attracts more than 1,500,000 people each year. Its goal is to give a fresh perspective on Paris with installations and exhibitions in several different neighbourhoods, and to make contemporary art more accessible to all.
venues, but the most fun is to be had wandering through residential neighbourhoods and dropping into locals’ bars.
du Cinéma 4 Fête www.feteducinema.com
Film buffs rejoice during this annual celebration of film, in which cinemagoers pay just €4 per film at cinemas all across the city. The event lasts for four days and starts on the last Sunday of June.
Eaux 5 Grandes Nocturnes Dates in Jun–Sep This is a true midsummer night’s dream, with superb illuminations and installations in the gardens of Versailles, plus a dazzling firework display over the Grand Canal.
de la Musique 3 Fête 21 Jun
To celebrate the summer equinox, professional and amateur musicians take to the streets of Paris. Major performances take place in Place de la République and other concert
Fête de la Musique street performers
Festivals and Events ❮❮ 75 d’Automne 6 Festival à Paris
TOP 10 SPORTS EVENTS
Mid-Sep–Dec • www.festivalautomne.com This major festival promotes contemporary arts across the board, encouraging people from all walks of life to performances of dance, music, film and drama.
des Vendanges 7 Fêtes Early Oct (for five days)
Paris was once a major wine producer but these days only the vineyards at Montmartre produce wine (see p149). These yield just under a thousand bottles of Clos de Montmartre every year. Despite the small harvest, great fun is had at the Fêtes des Vendanges with wine, food stalls and a street parade.
Jazz Festival 8 Paris Jun & Jul parisjazz •
festival.fr Paris is home to jazz all year round (see p65), but every summer there is a major jazz festival in the city. Acts from all over the world come to play in the Parc Floral de Paris in the Bois de Vincennes (see p156). Many smaller venues are involved as well.
Plages 9 Paris Jul & Aug www.paris.fr •
Launched in 2002 by the then mayor of Paris, Bertrand Delanoë, this popular summer event transforms a stretch of the Seine quais and the Canal du l’Ourcq into a mini Cannes, with tons of soft sand, parasols and palm trees. There are also outdoor events and activities for children.
Mois de la Photo
0 Nov
www.mep-fr.org Paris reveres the art of photography and every alternate November (in even-numbered years) it hosts the “Month of the Photo”. Galleries, museums, shops, cultural centres and many other venues give space to exhibitions, workshops and lectures on all aspects of the art. For anyone interested in photography, it is an exciting time to visit Paris. •
Paris Marathon runners 1 Tour de France This great cycle race ends in Paris. 2 Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe Longchamp racecourse Oct: first weekend This world-renowned horse race attracts the city’s crème de la crème. •
3 French Tennis Open Stade Roland Garros end May– early Jun This legendary clay-court tournament is part of the prestigious Grand Slam. •
4 Longines Masters Paris Nord Villepinte Dec Show-jumping fans and competitors descend on Paris. •
5 Six Nations Rugby Stade de France Feb–Mar The French team plays England, Scotland, Ireland, Wales and Italy. •
6 Paris Marathon Apr Runners start at the Champs-Elysées and end at Avenue Foch. 7 Football Cup Final Stade de France mid-May Quite simply the biggest club event in French football. •
8 Prix de Diane Longines Chantilly Jun: second or third Sun Parisian high society flocks to this up-market horse race. •
9 Top 14 Rugby Final Stade de France May/Jun Some of the world’s finest rugby players take part in the final of the French Rugby league. •
10 BNP Paribas Masters AccorHotels Arena Early Nov After the French Open, this is regarded as the country’s next major tennis championship. •
Paris Area by Area
A Gothic gargoyle stares out over Paris from Notre-Dame’s western façade
Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis
78
Beaubourg and Les Halles
84
Marais and the Bastille
92
Tuileries and Opéra Quarters
102
Champs-Elysées Quarter
110
Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters
118
St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters
124
Jardin des Plantes Quarter
134
Chaillot Quarter
140
Montmartre and Pigalle
146
Greater Paris
154
78 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis Paris was born on the Ile de la Cité. The first settlers came to this island on the Seine in 300 BC and it has been a focus of church and state power over many centuries, home to the great cathedral of Notre-Dame and the Palais de Justice. This tiny land mass is also the geographical heart of the city – all distances from Paris are measured from Point Zéro, just outside Notre-Dame. While the Ile de la Cité bustles with tourists, the smaller Ile St-Louis, linked to its neighbour by a footbridge, has been an exclusive residential enclave since the 17th century. Notre-Dame Its main street is lined with shops, galleries gargoyle and restaurants and is a lovely place for a stroll. AREA MAP OF ILE DE LA CITE AND ILE ST-LOUIS Châtelet Châtelet
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Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis ❮❮ 79
1 Notre-Dame See pp20–23. 2 Sainte-Chapelle See pp36–7. 3 Conciergerie MAP N3 2 Blvd du Palais, •
75001 • Open 9:30am–6pm daily • Admission charge This imposing Gothic palace, built by Philippe le Bel (the Fair) in 1301–15, has a rich history. Parts of it were turned into a prison, controlled by the concierge, or keeper of the king’s mansion, hence the name. Ravaillac, assassin of Henri IV, was tortured here, but it was during the Revolution that the prison became a place of terror, when thousands were held here awaiting execution by guillotine. Today you can see the Salle des Gardes and the magnificent vaulted Salle des Gens d’Armes (Hall of the
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aux Fleurs – 4 Marché Reine Elizabeth II MAP N3 One of the last remaining flower markets in the city centre, the beautiful Marché aux Fleurs is also the oldest, dating from the early 19th century. It is held year-round, Monday to Saturday, in place Louis-Lépine, filling the north side of the Ile de la Cité with dazzling blooms from 8am to 7pm. There is also a bird market here on Sundays, which sells some rare species (see p70).
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Men-at-Arms), a torture chamber, the Bonbec tower and the prison. The cell where Marie-Antoinette was held, and the history of other famous Revolution prisoners, is on display. Outside, look for the square Tour de l’Horloge, erected in 1370, which houses the city’s first public clock, still ticking.
Archéologique 5 Crypte MAP P4 7 Parvis Notre-
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Dame – Pl Jean-Paul II, 75004 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Admission charge Fascinating remnants of early Paris dating back to Gallo-Roman times were discovered in 1965, during an excavation of the square in front of Notre-Dame in order to build an underground car park. The archaeological crypt displays parts of 3rdcentury Roman walls, rooms heated by hypocaust, as well as remains of medieval streets and foundations. The scale models showing the evolution of the city from its origins as a Celtic settlement are interesting.
80 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Pont Neuf and the Ile de la Cité
Neuf 6 Pont MAP M3
The name – New Bridge – is somewhat incongruous for the oldest surviving bridge in Paris. Following its completion in 1607, Henri IV christened it by charging across on his steed; the bronze equestrian statue of the king was melted down during the Revolution but replaced in 1818. Decorated with striking carved heads, the bridge was unique for its time in that it had no houses built upon it. It has 12 arches and a span of 275 m (912 ft) extending to both sides of the island.
de Justice 7 Palais MAP M3 10 Blvd du Palais, •
75001 • Open 8:30am–6pm Mon–Fri (ID required) Stretching across the west end of the Ile de la Cité from north to south, the Palais de Justice, along with the
Conciergerie, was once part of the Palais de la Cité, seat of Roman rule and the home of the French kings until 1358. It took its present name during the Revolution and the buildings now contain the city’s law courts. You can watch the courts in session (9am & 1:30pm) from Monday to Friday and wander through the public areas, with their many ornate features. The Cour du Mai (May Courtyard) is the area through which prisoners passed on their way to execution during the Revolution.
Dauphine 8 Place MAP M3
In 1607, Henri IV transformed this former royal garden into a triangular square and named it after his son, the Dauphin and future King Louis XIII. Surrounding the square were uniformly built houses of brick and white stone; No. 14 is one of the few THE GUILLOTINE
Palais de Justice
Dr Joseph Guillotine invented his “humane” beheading machine at his home near the Odéon and it was first used in April 1792. During the Revolution some 2,600 prisoners were executed on the places du Carrousel, de la Concorde, de la Bastille and de la Nation, after awaiting their fate in the Conciergerie prison.
Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis ❮❮ 81 that retains its original features. One side was destroyed to make way for the expansion of the Palais de Justice. Today this quiet spot is a good place to relax over a drink or meal (see p83).
9 St-Louis-en-l’Ile MAP Q5 19 bis Rue St-Louis•
en-l’Ile, 75004 • Open 9:30am–1pm, 2–7:30pm daily (until 7pm Sun) This lovely Baroque church on Ile St-Louis was designed between 1664 and 1726 by the royal architect Louis Le Vau. The exterior features an iron clock (1741) at the entrance and an iron spire, while the interior, richly decorated with gilding and marble, has a statue of St Louis holding his Crusader’s sword.
A DAY ON THE ISLANDS La Rose de France
Marché aux Fleurs
SainteChapelle Crypte Archéologique
Ile St-Louis NotreDame
Le Flore en l'Ile
Berthillon
MORNING
Arrive at Notre-Dame (see pp20– 3) by 8am to beat the crowds and appreciate its magnificence, then head for the fragrant Marché aux Fleurs. As well as flowers, you can buy all kinds of garden accessories and seeds. Return to Notre-Dame if you want to ascend the towers, which open at 10am. Take a coffee break at Le Flore en l’Ile (see p83), with its views of the cathedral. The fascinating Crypte Archéologique is worth a half-hour visit, then spend the late morning at Sainte-Chapelle (see pp36–7), when the sun beams through the stained-glass windows. There are plenty of places for lunch, but on a sunny day try La Rose de France (see p83), which has terrace seating. AFTERNOON
Square du Vert-Galant
du Vert-Galant 0 Square MAP M3
The tranquil western tip of the Ile de la Cité, with its verdant chestnut trees, lies beneath the Pont Neuf – take the steps behind Henri IV’s statue. The king had a notoriously amorous nature and the name of this peaceful square recalls his nickname, meaning “old flirt”. From here there is a wonderful view of the Louvre (see pp12–15) and the Right Bank. It is also the departure point for cruises on the Seine on Les Vedettes du Pont-Neuf (see p171).
Spend a leisurely afternoon strolling the narrow streets of the Ile St-Louis, which are filled with characterful shops and galleries (see p82). Wind up with an afternoon treat by visiting Berthillon, considered the best ice-cream purveyor in all of France (see p83). With at least 70 delicious varieties of ice cream on offer, ranging from plain vanilla to whisky, and including virtually any fruit you can think of, the hardest part will be choosing. There will be plenty of time to make your choice, however, as there will inevitably be a long queue, especially during the summer months.
See map on pp78–9
82 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Shopping 1 Lafitte MAP P4 8 Rue Jean du •
Bellay, 75004 • Closed Sun, Mon Foie gras and other regional products from the southwest await shoppers looking to indulge in French gastronomy.
Gardil 2 Jean-Paul MAP Q5 44 Rue St-Louis•
en-I’lle, 75004 • Closed Mon This boucherie-charcuterie is a carnivore’s palace, offering a fantastic choice of cured hams, pâtés and sausages, perfect for a picnic on pretty Ile St-Louis.
5 Laguiole MAP Q4 35 Rue des Deux •
Ponts, 75004 • Closed Sun (am) Browse an array of knives and cutlery sets from this iconic cutlery brand, which hails from the Aveyron region of southern France. Look for the famous bee motif on the handles.
Boutique 6 Pylones MAP Q5 57 Rue St-Louis-en•
l’Ile, 75004 Rubber and painted metal are used to create the whimsical jewellery and accessories sold here, along with a selection of novelty gifts.
Ulysse 3 Librairie MAP Q5 26 Rue St-Louis-
7 Boulangerie des Deux Ponts
en-l’Ile, 75004 Closed am & Sat–Mon Today Paris, tomorrow the world. This eccentric travel bookshop will take you anywhere you want with thousands of titles, antiquarian and new, in French and English – including many on Paris itself.
MAP Q5 • 35 Rue des Deux Ponts, 75004 • Closed Wed, Thu, Aug Few passers-by are able to resist the freshly baked bread produced at this old-fashioned bakery.
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Alain Carion
4 MAP Q5
• 92 Rue St-Louis-enl’Ile, 75004 • Closed Sun, Mon A wealth of meteorites, fossils and minerals. Some are made into imaginative jewellery.
Moinet 8 Maison MAP Q5 45 Rue St-Louis-en•
l’Ile, 75004 • Closed Mon, Tue A family-run confectioner from Vichy, this cute shop sells traditional French sweets and chocolates. Enticing for all ages.
Ferme 9 La Saint Aubin MAP Q5 • 76 Rue St-Louisen-l’Ile, 75004 • Closed Mon (am) Cheese in all shapes and sizes from all over France are sold at this fromagerie. An aromatic delight.
de Rêve 0 Clair MAP Q5 35 Rue •
Clair de Rêve boutique
St-Louis-en-l’Ile, 75004 • Closed Sun This boutique sells original curiosities such as puppets, robots and miniature theatres making it an ideal shop if you’re looking for a present with a difference.
Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis ❮❮ 83
Places to Eat Rose de France 1 La MAP M3 24 Pl Dauphine, •
75001 • 01 43 54 10 12 • €–€€ Dine on French classics on the lovely terrace or in the cozy dining room.
Sergent Recruteur 2 Le MAP Q4 41 Rue St-Louis•
en-l’Ile, 75004 • 01 43 54 75 42 • Closed Tue–Thu L, Sun, Mon • €€ Served in a stylishly refurbished space, the tasting menus include imaginative modern interpretations of traditional dishes.
Fous de L’Ile 3 Les MAP Q4 33 Rue des Deux •
Ponts, 75004 • 01 43 25 76 67 • €€ This modern Parisian bistro serves typical dishes such as entrecôte or steak tartare. It also hosts exhibitions and live music.
Petit Plateau 4 Le MAP G5 1 Quai aux Fleurs, •
75004 • 01 44 07 61 86 • No disabled access • € This tearoom is a great lunch spot, serving delicious homemade salads, quiches and cakes.
de 5 Brasserie l’Ile St-Louis MAP P4 • 55 Quai de Bourbon, 75004 • 01 43 54 02 59 • Closed Wed, Aug • No disabled access • €€ Wooden tables and a rustic look complement hearty Alsace fare, such as tripe in Riesling wine.
6 Isami MAP P5
• 4 Quai d’Orléans, 75004 • 01 40 46 06 97 • Closed Sun, Mon, Aug • No disabled access • €€€ This is consistently voted one of the best Japanese restaurants in the city. The sushi and sashimi platters are a work of art but space is limited so be sure to book ahead.
La Rose de France
Henri IV 7 Taverne MAP M3 13 Pl du Pont-Neuf, •
75001 • 01 43 54 27 90 • Closed Sun, Aug • No disabled access • € A fine wine list and simple plates of charcuterie, cheese and snails.
Vieil Ami 8 Mon MAP Q5 69 Rue St-Louis-en•
l’Ile, 75004 • 01 40 46 01 35 • Closed Mon, Tue, Jan, Aug • No disabled access • €€–€€€ A chic interior is the backdrop for dishes such as braised lamb with seasonal vegetable fricassée.
Flore en l’Ile 9 Le MAP P5 42 Quai d’Orléans, •
75004 • 01 43 29 88 27 • No disabled access • € Go for the views as well as the food at this bistro-cum-tearoom, open from breakfast until 1am.
0 Berthillon MAP G5 31 Rue St-Louis-en•
l’Ile, 75004 • 01 43 54 31 61 • Closed Mon, Tue, 1 week Feb, 1 week Easter, early Aug, late Oct • No credit cards • € There is always a queue outside this legendary ice cream and sorbet shop and tearoom but it is worth the wait. PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50 See map on pp78–9
84 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Beaubourg and Les Halles The small but lively Beaubourg Quarter, brimming with art galleries and cafés, has Le Défenseur become a major tourist attraction since the du Temps Centre Georges Pompidou opened in 1977. Les Halles was the city’s marketplace for 800 years – novelist Emile Zola called it “the belly of Paris”. Its glassroofed pavilions were demolished in 1969 but many of the surrounding bistros and speciality shops are still here. AREA MAP OF BEAUBOURG AND LES HALLES
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des Halles 2 Forum MAP N2
Ten years after the original market was demolished, the so-called “largest urban hole in Europe” was filled with this controversial shopping complex. This largely underground maze caters mainly to the young with designer-name boutiques. Outside, buskers, young people and tourists throng the steps and gardens (not a place to linger at night). Today, it’s more of a sore spot than a hotspot and French architect David Mangin has been commissioned to oversee its renovation, which will include a revamped shopping centre, gardens, metro and RER station. This is due to be completed by 2018.
du Commerce 3 Bourse MAP M1 2 Rue de Viarmes, •
75001 • Open 9am–6pm Mon–Fri (ID required) The circular building that houses the Commodities Exchange was erected as a grain market in 1767 and remodelled in the 19th century. It was first covered with a wooden dome, and then by subsequent structures of iron and copper. Under today’s glass dome, activity in the world commodities market proceeds at a leisurely pace compared to the way other financial centres operate.
The majestic St-Eustache
the ornate tomb of politician JeanBaptiste Colbert (1619–83) are highlights. Don’t miss the naïve sculpture in Chapelle St-Joseph, which recalls Les Halles’ market days, or the Keith Haring triptych in the Chapelle des Charcutiers.
Défenseur du Temps 5 Le MAP P2 Rue Bernard •
Clairvaux, 75003 The “Defender of Time”, Paris’s modern public clock, stands in the grim Quartier de l’Horloge (Clock Quarter) shopping area. This fantasy mechanical sculpture of brass and steel by Jacques Monastier is 4 m (13 ft) high and weighs 1 tonne. When the clock strikes the hour, the warrior fends off a savage cockerel, crab or dragon (representing air, water and earth) with his sword, with accompanying sound effects. Although, it hasn’t been working since 2003, it’s still impressive to see.
4 St-Eustache MAP M1 2 Impasse St•
Eustache, 75001 • Open 9:30am–7pm Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat, 9am–7pm Sun With its majestic arches and pillars, St-Eustache is one of the most beautiful churches in Paris. Although Gothic in design, it took 105 years to build (1532–1637) and its interior decoration reflects the Renaissance style of this time. The church was modelled on Notre-Dame (see pp20– 23), with double side aisles and a ring of side chapels. The stained-glass windows made from sketches by Philippe de Champaigne (1631) and
Interior of the Bourse du Commerce
86 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area des Innocents 6 Fontaine MAP N2 Rue St-Denis & •
Rue Berger, 75001 The Square des Innocents is a Les Halles crossroads and a hang-out for street performers and young people. It was built atop a cemetery in the 18th century, from which two million human remains were transferred to the Catacombs (see p58) at DenfertRochereau. The Renaissance fountain, the last of its era built in the city, was designed by Pierre Lescot and carved by sculptor Jean Goujon in 1547. It originally stood against a wall on rue St-Denis, and was moved to the new square, when the fourth side was added.
GEORGES POMPIDOU Georges Pompidou (1911–74) (below) had the unenviable task of following Général de Gaulle as President of France, from 1969 until his death. During his tenure he initiated many architectural developments in Paris, including the controversial but ultimately successful Pompidou Centre, and the less popular scheme to demolish the Les Halles market.
St-Merri 7 Eglise MAP P2 76 Rue de la Verrerie, •
75004 • Open noon–12:45pm & 3–7pm Mon–Fri, 3–7pm Sat, 9:30am–7pm Sun Formerly the parish church of the Lombard moneylenders, St-Merri was built between 1520 and 1612, and reflects the Flamboyant Gothic style. Its name is a corruption of St-Médéric, who was buried on this site in the early 8th century. The bell in the church’s northwest turret, thought to be the oldest in Paris, dates from 1331. Other highlights include the decorative west front, the 17th-century organ loft, beautiful stained glass and carved wood panelling. There are free concerts at the weekends. Check www.accueilmusical.fr for timings.
l’Auxerrois 8 St-Germain MAP M2 2 Pl du Louvre, •
75001 • Open 9am–7pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am–8:30pm Sun When the Valois kings moved to the Louvre palace in the 14th century (see p12), this became the church of the royal family. On 24 August 1572, the tolling of its bell was used as the signal for the St Bartholomew’s Day Massacre, when thousands of Huguenots who had come to Paris for the wedding of Henri of Navarre to Marguerite of Valois were murdered (see p22). The church features a range of architectural styles, from its Flamboyant Gothic façade to its Renaissance choir. Try to visit on Sunday afternoon, when there are organ recitals.
de la Poupée 9 Musée MAP P2 Impasse Berthaud, •
Stained glass in Eglise St-Merri
75003 • Open 1–6pm Tue–Sat • Closed public hols • Admission charge This delightful museum exhibits a superb collection of 300 rare French dolls, including unglazed handpainted porcelain dolls, which were manufactured between 1800 and 1945. The museum explores the history of the dolls, and their construction. It also features work
Beaubourg and Les Halles ❮❮ 87 by the main doll-makers of Germany and France. Another very special feature of the museum is its doll hospital, at which a specialist doll doctor works miracles on dolls and cuddly toys of all ages.
Tour St-Jacques
0 MAP N3
• 39 Rue de Rivoli, 75004 The late Gothic tower, dating from 1523, is all that remains of the church of St-Jacques-la-Boucherie, once the largest medieval church in Paris and a starting point for pilgrims on their journey to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. In the 17th century the mathematician and physicist Blaise Pascal used the tower for barometrical experiments. The church was pulled down after the Revolution. Visitors can explore the lower floors of the tower and visit the gardens around the base.
A DAY IN LES HALLES A la Cloche des Halle
rue Montorgueil Forum des Halles Défenseur du Temps
St-Eustache
Fontaine des Innocents Le Zimmer Café
Centre Georges Pompidou Bistro Benoit
MORNING
Start your day with breakfast at Le Zimmer Café (1 Pl du Châtelet • 01 42 36 74 03) before exploring the Museum of Modern Art at the Centre Georges Pompidou (see pp32–3), where the temporary exhibits are also well worth a look. If you need refreshment after all that art, it has to be Georges (see p90), the chic brasserie at the top of the Centre Pompidou, which offers great views along with drinks, snacks or main meals. On leaving the Centre, turn right into the Quartier de l’Horloge to admire the Défenseur du Temps clock. If you have booked ahead, take your seat at Michelin-starred bistro Benoit (see p90), whose lunchtime menu is far cheaper than in the evening. AFTERNOON
Pass the Fontaine des Innocents as you head for Les Halles, but first pay a visit to the church of St-Eustache (see p85), where the workers of the old Les Halles market worshipped. Skirt the vast Forum des Halles (see p85) and head for charming Rue Montorgueil and the little streets surrounding it – there are plenty of food shops and cafés to explore (see p89). Stop for a glass of wine at A La Cloche des Halles (see p88). It’s packed in the evenings, but in the late afternoon it may be possible to get a table to try the mouthwatering homemade profiteroles dripping in chocolate.
Tour St-Jacques See map on p84
88 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Memories of Les Halles
Sumptuous interior of Au Pied de Cochon
Pied de Cochon 1 Au This 24-hour brasserie still
serves dishes that used to appeal to the earthy tastes of market workers, including the eponymous pigs’ trotters (see p90).
d’Eustache 6 Bistrot MAP N2 37 Rue Berger, 75001 •
A visit here is like stepping back into the jazz spots of Paris in the 1930s– 40s. It offers good brasserie fare and live music on Friday and Saturday.
Cochon à l’Oreille Fresque 2 Le 7 La MAP F3 15 Rue Montmartre, MAP N1 100 Rue Rambuteau, •
75001 Dating back to the early 20th century, this ornate former working men’s café/bar, decorated with historic tiles and murals, has only a small dining room, so book in advance.
•
75001 This wonderful restaurant used to be a fishmongers. Original tiles and a fresco of a fishing scene still decorate the back room.
8 Dehillerin Sculpture MAP M1 18 Rue Coquillière, 3 St-Eustache 75001 The lively naïve sculpture by •
Raymond Mason in the church’s Chapelle St-Joseph is a tribute to the beloved market. Its colourful figures depict The Departure of Fruit and Vegetables from the Heart of Paris, 28 February 1969.
Rue Montorgueil
4 MAP N1
The colourful street market (Tuesday to Sunday) along this cobbled road is a reminder of the old Les Halles and is frequented by many Paris chefs.
Since 1820, everyone from army cooks to gourmet chefs has come here for copper pots, cast-iron pans and cooking utensils.
et Minart 9 Duthilleul MAP P1 14 Rue de Turbigo, •
75001 For more than 100 years this shop has sold French work clothes and uniforms, such as chef’s hats and watchmaker’s smocks.
des Halles 0 AMAPLaM1Cloche 28 Rue Coquillière, 5 Stöhrer MAP N1 51 Rue Montorgueil, 75001 •
•
75002 One of the loveliest old-fashioned patisseries in the city, founded in 1730 by a pastry chef who had worked for Louis XV.
This wine bar and restaurant literally chimes with history. The “cloche” is the bronze bell whose peal once signalled the start and end of the market day.
Beaubourg and Les Halles ❮❮ 89
Food Shops 1 G.MAPDetou 7 Delitaly N1 58 Rue Tiquetonne, MAP F3 5 Rue des Petits •
75002 The shelves at this chef’s paradise are laden with chocolates, teas, artisanal mustards and more.
•
Carreaux, 75002 You’ll find fresh and dried pastas, gourmet olive oils and a mouthwatering selection of salami and other cured meats at this Italian deli.
Organic 2 Løv Kayser MAP N1 15 Rue Montorgeuil, 8 Eric 75001 MAP F3 16 Rue des Petits •
•
A hip tea boutique that offers beautiful and recyclable tins of organic teas from all across the world.
Carreaux, 75002 Beyond excellent baguettes, choose from all manner of pastries and other baked goods to stock up on for tea.
Chocolatier 3 Charles Gourmande MAP N1 15 Rue Montorgueil, 9 Librairie 75001 MAP F3 92–96 Rue •
•
On a cold day, stop in at this familyrun chocolate shop for a take-out cup of their luscious hot chocolate; the ice creams in summer are delectable, too.
4
A la Mère de Famille
MAP N1 • 82 Rue Montorgueil, 75002 This branch of the oldest confectionery shop in Paris stocks regional French candies, all in the brand’s vintage-inspired packaging.
Montmartre, 75002 This fabulous bookshop has an extensive collection of books on wine and cooking, some in English.
de l’Eclair 0 L’Atelier MAP F3 16 Rue Bachaumont, •
75002 The home of the enticing éclair in all its guises, from simple chocolate and cream to Nutella, fig or foie gras.
Fermette 5 La MAP N1 86 Rue •
Montorgueil, 75002 The enthusiastic cheesemongers here are ready with tips and tastings to help visitors make the perfect choice from the piles of cheese on display.
6 Boulangerie Collet MAP N1 • 100 Rue Montorgueil, 75002 Run by the same family for two generations, this traditional boulangerie is particularly known for its viennoiseries and lightas-air meringues.
Pastries at L’Atelier de l’Eclair See map on p84
90 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
Tonneaux 1 Aux des Halles MAP N1 • 28 Rue Montorgueil, 75002 • 01 42 33 36 19 • Closed Sun • €€ Authentic French dishes and well-priced wines are served at this friendly bistro, where the daily specials are written on the chalkboard. Regulars sing the praises of the steak-frites.
Pied de Cochon 2 Au MAP M1 6 Rue Coquillière, •
75001 • 01 40 13 77 00 • €€ Long-time Les Halles favourite. If your taste is not for offal, there are other options, such as oysters and steak. Open 24 hours a day.
3
L’Ambassade d’Auvergne
MAP P1 • 22 Rue du Grenier St-Lazare, 75003 • 01 42 72 31 22 • Closed 2 weeks in Aug • €€ Auvergne cooking, with lots of pork and cabbage dishes. Shared tables; good for solo diners.
de Montlhéry, 4 Tour Chez Denise MAP M2 • 5 Rue des Prouvaires, 75001 • 01 42 36 21 82 • Closed Sat, Sun mid-Jul–mid-Aug • €€ A Les Halles legend for its huge portions and convivial atmosphere. Book in advance.
Tambour 6 Le MAP N1 41 Rue Montmartre, •
75002 • 01 42 33 06 90 • No disabled access • €–€€ This 24-hour bistro draws a lively crowd with its friendly service and hearty French fare.
Beaubourg 7 Café MAP P2 43 Rue St-Merri, •
75001 • 01 48 87 63 96 • €€€ The terrace here overlooks the Pompidou Centre. Steak tartare is a house special.
8 Spring MAP M2
• 6 Rue Bailleul, 75004 • 01 45 96 05 72 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ American chef Daniel Rose offers a fixed menu, which includes dishes made with fresh ingredients from the market. Book in advance.
Georges 9 Restaurant MAP G4 Centre Georges •
Pompidou, 19 Rue Beaubourg, 75004 • 01 44 78 47 99 • Closed Tue • €€€ Sleek design and a great view make this museum restaurant a superb choice for a glamorous night out.
Hangar 0 Le MAP G4 12 Impasse •
Berthaud, 75003 • 01 42 74 55 44 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€ This small, friendly bistro is no secret to the locals, who keep returning for the fabulous food, such as steak tartare and moelleux au chocolat.
5 Benoit MAP P1
• 20 Rue St-Martin, 75004 • 01 42 72 25 76 • Closed Aug • €€€ First opened in 1912, this Michelinstarred location is, justifiably, the most expensive bistro in Paris. Try the lunchtime menu to keep the cost down.
Interior of Benoit bistro
Beaubourg and Les Halles ❮❮ 91
Beer Bars Frog and Rosbif 1 The MAP F3 116 Rue St-Denis, •
75002 For homesick Brits or Anglophiles, this is the place to find real ale (brewed downstairs) and fish and chips, play pub quizzes, read English newspapers and watch live football and rugby matches.
Point 2 Quigley’s MAP M1 5 Rue du Jour, •
75001 Right in front of Eglise St-Eustache, this friendly Irish pub serves beer from Holland, Germany, Ireland and Britain.
Beer Tavern 3 Hall’s MAP N2 68 Rue St-Denis, •
75001 Although situated in a fairly touristy street, this is a relaxed and friendly place with a good selection of draught beers on offer, including La Chouffe and Duvel.
Goblet d’Argent 4 Le MAP N1 2 Rue de la Petite •
Truanderie, 75001 With regular live music, this vibrant bar has an Irish pub feel. There’s also a terrace that’s very popular during warm weather.
Cultes 5 Bières MAP F4 14 Rue des Halles, •
75001 This “cave of beers” celebrates the world of craft brews, from German smoked beer to French pale ales. Regular themed events include food and beer pairing.
6 McBride’s MAP F3 54 Rue St-Denis, •
75001 A popular place to watch football or play a game of pool, this friendly Irish sports bar attracts homesick expats with its fried breakfasts. Enjoy live music on Sunday nights.
The Frog and Rosbif
Trappiste 7 Au MAP F3 4 Rue St-Denis, •
75001 Calling itself “the kingdom of beer”, this bar specializes in Belgian brews, including, of course, Trappist beers. Hearty Flemish and Alsace food such as choucroute is served.
Tavern 8 Guinness MAP N2 31 Rue des •
Lombards, 75004 Fourteen beers are on tap in this Irish bar, which has live music every night and a concert once a month. The party really kicks off after 10pm.
Oz 9 Café MAP F3 18 Rue St-Denis, •
75001 A range of Australian beers and wines, combined with archetypal Outback decor, makes this rowdy bar popular with antipodean expatriates and French patrons alike.
Taverne de Maître 0 La Kanter MAP F3 • 16 Rue Coquillière, 75001 Part of a chain of Alsace-style taverns, this is a good place to relax over a pint of French beer. Alsatian dishes are also served. See map on p84
92 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Marais and the Bastille For many, the Marais is one of the most enjoyable quarters of Paris, with chic shops, galleries and dining, as well as fine museums and atmospheric medieval lanes, but the district was little more than a muddy swamp until Henri IV built the Place Royale (now Place des Vosges) in 1605. Following its notoriety as the birthplace of the Revolution, the Bastille district sank into oblivion, until artists and designers arrived in the 1990s. Its streets are now home to the city’s liveliest nightspots.
Statue, Musée Carnavalet
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Marais and the Bastille ❮❮ 93 Picasso 1 Musée MAP R2 5 Rue de Thorigny, •
75003 • Open 11:30am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9:30am–6pm Sat & Sun • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Admission charge (free first Sun of month) • www.museepicassoparis.fr When the Spanish-born artist Pablo Picasso died in 1973, his family donated thousands of his works to the French state in lieu of estate taxes. Thus Paris enjoys the largest collection of Picassos in the world. Housed in the grand Hôtel Salé (see p98), which emerged from extensive renovations in late 2014, the collection displays the range of his artistic
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Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • www.museecognacqjay.paris.fr This small but excellent museum illustrates the sophisticated French lifestyle in the so-called Age of Enlightenment, which centred on Paris. The 18th-century art and furniture on display were once the private collection of Ernest Cognacq and his wife, Louise Jay, founders of the former Samaritaine department store by Pont Neuf. It is superbly displayed in the Hôtel Donon, an elegant late 16th-century town mansion (see p51). •
Fashion and Accessory Shops see p96
St-Ambroise St-Ambroise
development, from his Blue and Pink periods to Cubism, and reveals his proficiency in an astonishing range of techniques and materials. Larger sculptures are housed in the garden and courtyard (see p52).
Cognacq-Jay 2 Musée MAP Q3 8 Rue Elzévir, 75003
Top 10 Sights see pp93–5
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des Vosges 3 Place MAP R3
Paris’s oldest square is also one of the most beautiful in the world. The square was commissioned by Henri IV. Its 36 houses with red-gold brick and stone façades, slate roofs and dormer windows were laid out with striking symmetry in 1612. Originally built for silk workers, the likes of Cardinal Richelieu (1585–1642) and playwright Molière (1622–73) quickly moved in and it remains an upperclass residential address. However, everyone can enjoy a stroll around the area and visit the art galleries under the arcades.
94 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area Carnavalet 4 Musée MAP R3 16 Rue des Francs •
Bourgeois, 75003 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Closed some public hols • www.carnavalet.paris.fr Devoted to the history of Paris, this museum sprawls through two mansions, the 16th-century Carnavalet and 17th-century Le Peletier de Saint-Fargeau. The former was the home of Madame de Sévigné, the famous letter-writer, from 1677 to 1696 and a gallery here is devoted to her life. The extensive museum contains period rooms filled with art and portraits, plus Revolutionary artifacts and memorabilia of 18thcentury philosophers Rousseau and Voltaire (see p50).
de la Bastille 5 Place MAP H5
Today this notorious square is not much more than a busy traffic circle. Originally, the Bastille was a fortress built by Charles V to defend the eastern edge of the city, but it soon became a jail for political prisoners. Angry citizens, rising up against the excesses of the monarchy, stormed the Bastille on 14 July 1789 (see p43) and destroyed this hated symbol of oppression sparking off the French Revolution. In its place is the bronze Colonne de Juillet (July Column), 52 m (171 ft) high and crowned by the Angel of Liberty, which commemorates those who died in the 1830 and 1848 revolutions. Looming behind it is the Opéra Bastille, once the largest opera house in the world, which opened on the bicentennial of the Revolution in 1989. THE JEWISH QUARTER The Jewish Quarter, centred on rues des Rosiers and des Écouffes, was established in the 13th century and has attracted immigrants since the Revolution. Many Jews fled here to escape persecution in Eastern Europe, but were arrested during the Nazi Occupation. Since World War II, Sephardic Jews from North Africa have found new homes here.
Passage de l’Homme
Passages 6 The MAP H5
The Bastille has been the quarter of working-class artisans and craft guilds since the 17th century and many furniture makers are still located in these small alleyways, called passages. Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine is lined with shops selling a striking array of traditional period furniture and modern designs, but don’t miss the narrow passages, such as Passage de l’Homme, that run off this and other streets in the Bastille. Many artists and craftspeople have their ateliers (workshops) in these atmospheric alleys.
de la Chasse et 7 Musée de la Nature MAP Q2 • 62 Rue des Archives, 75003 Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9:30pm Wed) • Closed public hols • Admission charge (free first Sun of month) • www.chassenature.org Occupying two well-preserved 17thand 18th-century mansions, this intriguing museum explores the history of hunting, and humanity’s relationship with the natural world. Curated to resemble the home of a rich collector, the museum displays tapestries and gilt-framed period paintings alongside taxidermy animals, and fascinating curiosity cabinets. There are surprises in each elegantly organized room, from the astonishing Jan Fabre-designed ceiling of owl feathers to the sleepy fox curled up on a chair. •
Marais and the Bastille ❮❮ 95 de Lappe 8 Rue MAP H5
Once famous for its 1930s dance halls (bals musettes), rue de Lappe is still the Bastille’s after-dark hotspot. This short, narrow street is filled with bars, clubs, restaurants and cafés, and positively throbs with music. Crowds of night-owls trawl the cobblestones looking for action, and spill into the adjoining rue de la Roquette and rue de Charonne, where there are even more trendy bars and restaurants.
Européenne 9 Maison de la Photographie MAP Q3 • 5–7 Rue de Fourcy, 75004 Open 11am–8pm Wed–Sun • Admission charge (free Wed after 5pm) • www.mep-fr.org This excellent gallery showcases contemporary European photography. It is housed in an early 18thcentury mansion, Hôtel Hénault de Cantorbre, a mix of historic features and modern spaces that shows off a permanent collection and changing exhibitions of items from its archives. •
de Victor Hugo 0 Maison MAP R4 6 Pl des Vosges, •
75004 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Closed public hols • Admission charge for exhibitions • www. maisonsvictorhugo.paris.fr French author Victor Hugo (1802–85) lived on the second floor of the Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée, the largest house on the place des Vosges, from 1832 to 1848. He wrote most of Les Misérables here (see p44) among other works. In 1903, the house became a museum covering his life.
Busts, Maison de Victor Hugo
A DAY IN THE MARAIS Marché des Enfants Rouges
Merci
rue Vieille du Temple
rue des Francs Bourgeois Musée Carnavalet
L’As du Fallafel rue des Rosiers
place des Vosges Maison de Victor Hugo
Hôtel de Béthune-Sully
place de la Bastille
Le Train Bleu (500 m)
MORNING
Begin at the Musée Carnavalet, with its impressive collections and lovely garden courtyard. Afterwards, walk to the Place des Vosges: take in the whole square from the fountains in the centre. Have a coffee at Ma Bourgogne (19 Pl des Vosges • 01 42 78 44 64), right on the square. Revitalized, tour the Maison de Victor Hugo, then go to the southwest corner of the square, through a wooden door to the pretty garden of the Hôtel de Béthune-Sully (see p98). AFTERNOON
If the weather is nice, join the queue at L’As du Fallafel (see p101) for a hearty falafel wrap to eat in the nearby square Charles-Victor Langlois. Otherwise, for shelter and a greater choice, head for the lively Marché des Enfants Rouges (39 Rue de Bretagne) and its international food stalls. Spend a leisurely afternoon exploring the Marais, with its narrow, picturesque streets lined with shops and cafés. Pop into the fashionable boutiques along the Rue des Francs Bourgeois and Rue Vieille du Temple; bite into a slice of babka in the Jewish Quarter on Rue des Rosiers; then explore the ultra-hip Upper Marais, where concept store Merci (see p96) holds court. Walk through Place de la Bastille – once the site of the city’s dreaded prison – on the way to dinner in style beneath the chandeliers of Le Train Bleu (20 Blvd Diderot • 01 43 43 09 06), set inside the Gare de Lyon train station. See map on pp92–3
96 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Fashion and Accessory Shops women are inspired by Tzigane and Asian styles, and made using vibrant natural fabrics. They sell children’s clothes and home furnishings too.
Autour 5 Home du Monde MAP G4 • 8 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75003 • 01 42 77 16 18 French designer Bensimon’s concept store stocks the brand’s classic canvas sneakers in bright colours and Liberty prints for kids and adults.
6 Monsieur MAP R1 53 Rue Charlot, •
75003 This small store sells delicate gold and silver jewellery. Designer Nadia Azoug is often at work in the on-site atelier. Shoes in the window of Anatomica
Anatomica
1 MAP P3
•
14 Rue du Bourg
Tibourg, 75004 One of the best men’s stores in the city, carrying perfectly tailored clothes, and leather shoes from cult brand Alden.
Merci
2 MAP R2
•
Eric Bompard •
14 Rue de Sévigné,
75004 Everything is soft at this cashmere specialist – sweaters, scarves, gloves and much more.
Antoine et Lilli
4 MAP Q2
•
75011 This is the flagship store of the young, French womenswear label, which produces chic, edgy clothes and accessories.
8 K.MAPJacques Q3 16 Rue Pavée, 75004 •
111 Blvd Beaumarchais, 75003 This trendy multi-brand store stocks clothes and accessories alongside stylish homewares.
3 MAP R3
7 Sessùn MAP H5 34 Rue de Charonne,
51 Rue des Francs Bourgeois, 75004 Behind the bright pink shopfront, chic and easy-to-wear clothes for •
The classic Saint-Tropez sandal, given iconic status by Brigitte Bardot and never out of fashion, is stocked here, in some 60 styles and colours.
Marant 9 Isabel MAP H5 16 Rue de Charonne, •
75011 This designer is starting to get a lot of recognition outside France, her pieces are hip but elegant.
0 Bonton MAP R1 5 Blvd des Filles du •
Calvaire, 75003 A gorgeous store for kids, this has three levels of clothes, accessories, toys and even a vintage photo booth.
Marais and the Bastille ❮❮ 97
Specialist Shops Frères 1 Mariage 5 Thiercelin MAP Q3 30 Rue du Bourg MAP R1 3 Rue Charles•
Tibourg, 75004 This famous tea house was founded in 1854 and sells all kinds of blends, as well as tea-making paraphernalia.
•
François Dupuis, 75003 Paris’s top chefs stock up on herbs, spices and teas here. Great for an interesting food gift or souvenir.
Genin 2 Jacques à MAP G3 133 Rue de Turenne, 6 L’Arbre Lettres 75003 •
This trendy chocolatier is adored for his caramels and fruit jellies. He also bakes a fantastic millefeuille.
Manufacture 3 La de Chocolat MAP H4 • 40 Rue de la Roquette, 75011 The chocolaterie of Michelin-starred chef Alain Ducasse smells divine – and has the taste to back it up.
4 Fragonard MAP Q2 51 Rue des Francs •
Bourgeois, 75004 If you can’t visit this perfumemaker’s factory in the south of France, pick up some soaps and scents in this fragrant boutique.
MAP H5 • 62 Rue du Faubourg St-Antoine, 75012 This beautiful little bookshop specializes in fine L’Arbre à Lettres arts, literature and human sciences.
7 AMAPl’Olivier H5 23 Rue de Rivoli, •
75004 Opened in 1822, this shop specializes in sourcing the finest Provençal and Mediterranean olive oils, along with other culinary delights.
Tigre 8 Papier MAP R1 5 Rue des Filles •
du Calvaire, 75003 Stylish graphic notebooks, greeting cards and other quirkily designed paper products are on offer at this modern stationery store.
9 Izraël MAP P3
• 30 Rue François Miron, 75004 Also called the “World of Spices”, this tiny store is a treasure trove of cheese, wine, rum, honey, mustard and myriad other delights.
Saint Paul 0 Village MAP R4 Between Rue •
Soaps and scents at Fragonard
St-Paul and Rue des Jardins St-Paul, 75004 A secret maze of art galleries, fine antiques and design shops, tucked away behind Eglise St-Paul. See map on pp92–3
98 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Mansions de Béthune-Sully 6 Hôtel MAP R4 62 Rue St-Antoine, •
75004 • Closed to the public, except the gardens This 17th-century mansion was home to the Duc de Sully, chief minister to Henri IV. It now houses the French National Monuments administration. Orangery, Hôtel de Béthune-Sully
de Coulanges 1 Hôtel MAP Q2 35 Rue des Francs •
Bourgeois, 75004 This beautiful mansion houses the Maison de l’Europe, a cultural and education centre that holds regular conferences.
Hôtel Salé
2 Built in 1656–9 for Aubert de Fontenay, a salt-tax collector, this mansion is now the home of the Musée Picasso (see p93).
Hôtel Guénégaud
3 MAP P3
• 60 Rue des Archives, 75003 • Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9:30pm Wed) • Admission charge Designed by the architect François Mansart in the mid-17th century, this splendid mansion is now home to the Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature (see p94).
de Beauvais 4 Hôtel MAP P3 68 Rue François •
Miron, 75004 • Closed to the public The young Mozart performed at this 17th-century mansion. Notice the balcony decorated with goats’ heads.
de St-Aignan 5 Hôtel MAP P2 71 Rue du Temple, •
75003 • Open 11am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm Sun • Admission charge • www.mahj.org The plain exterior hides an enormous mansion within. It is now the Museum of Jewish Art and History. Medieval façade of Hôtel de Sens
de Soubise 7 Hôtel MAP Q2 60 Rue des Francs •
Bourgeois, 75003 • Open 10am– 5:30pm Mon, Wed–Fri, 2–5:30pm Sat & Sun • Admission charge Along with the adjacent Hôtel de Rohan, this mansion houses the national archives.
de Lamoignon 8 Hôtel MAP Q3 24 Rue Pavée, 75004 •
Closed to the public This mansion was built in 1584 for the daughter of Henri II. •
de Marle 9 Hôtel MAP G4 11 Rue Payenne, •
75003 • Open noon–6pm Tue–Sun • Closed mid-Jul–end Aug The Swedish Institute and its quaint café are located here.
de Sens 0 Hôtel MAP Q4 1 Rue Figuier, •
75004 • Closed to the public, except the library One of Paris’s few medieval mansions. Henri IV’s wife Marguerite de Valois (see p22) lived here after their divorce. It is now home to a fine arts library.
Marais and the Bastille ❮❮ 99
Galleries Marian Goodman Thaddeus Ropac 1 Galerie 7 Galerie MAP P2 79 Rue du Temple, MAP Q1 7 Rue Debelleyme, •
75003 • Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sat • Closed Aug • mariangood man.com Housed in a 17th-century mansion, this gallery is a slice of New York style. Artists include Jeff Wall and video-maker Steve McQueen.
Galerie Akié Arichi
2 MAP H5
• 26 Rue Keller, 75011 Open 2:30–7pm Tue–Sat • www.galeriearichi.com Exhibitions covering photography, sculpture and painting, often with an Asian influence. •
•
75003 • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat • www.ropac.net A major contemporary gallery showcasing new international artists.
Lavignes8 Galerie Bastille MAP H5 • 27 Rue de Charonne, 75011 • Open 2–7pm Tue–Sat • www.lavignesbastille.com Narrative figuration, Op Art and new artists are featured here.
Alain 3 Galerie Gutharc MAP H4 • 7 Rue St-Claude, 75003 • Open 11am–1pm, 2–7pm Tue–Sat • www. alaingutharc.com Alain Gutharc devotes his space to the work of contemporary French artists.
Daniel 4 Galerie Templon MAP P2 • 30 Rue Beaubourg, 75003 • Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat • www.danieltemplon.com A favourite among the French contemporary art establishment, exhibiting talented artists.
Karsten Greve 5 Galerie MAP R2 5 Rue Debelleyme, •
75003 • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat • www.galerie-karsten-greve.com A leading international gallery with top names in modern and contemporary art and photography.
Patrick Seguin 6 Galerie MAP H4 5 Rue des •
Taillandiers, 75011 • Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat • www.patrickseguin.com This gallery features stylish 20thcentury furniture and architecture.
Galerie Lavignes-Bastille
Yvon Lambert 9 Galerie MAP Q1 108 Rue Vieille du •
Temple, 75003 • Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat, 2–7pm Sun • www.yvonlambert.com Associated with gallery in Avignon, this shop displays art books, posters, limited edition prints and art objects.
Nikki Diana 0 Galerie Marquardt MAP R3 • 9 Pl des Vosges, 75004 Open 11am–7pm Mon–Sat • www. galerienikkidianamarquardt.com This gallery shows politically motivated artworks executed in all types of media. •
See map on pp92–3
100 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Fashionable Hang-outs of international artists as well as French household names. The adjoining café serves drinks and light meals, along with a list of daily specials on the chalkboard.
In 5 Pop MAP H4
• 105 Rue Amelot, 75011 This shabby-chic bar and nightclub has cheap drinks, friendly staff, a cool crowd and funky DJs. It’s open seven days a week until late.
de l’Industrie 6 Café MAP H4 16 Rue St-Sabin, •
Kitsch decor in Andy Wahloo
75011 A fashionable and sizable café that has three rooms where the walls are lined with paintings and oldfashioned artifacts. The food is cheap but pretty good, and the later it gets the better the buzz.
Wahloo 1 Andy MAP Q1 69 Rue des
7 Grazie MAP H4
•
Gravilliers, 75003 Located in one of Henri IV’s former mansions, pop art and North African decor form a backdrop for some of the city’s most fashionable soirées.
Zéro Zéro
2 MAP H4
89 Rue Amelot, 75011 It doesn’t get much cooler than this den-like bar with wood panelling and flowered wallpaper. Though not listed on the menu, cocktails are a speciality. •
La Perle
3 MAP Q2
• 78 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 • 01 42 72 69 93 This bistro is one of Paris’ most famous hang-outs. Its straightforward menu draws a fashionable crowd in the evenings.
Bataclan
4 MAP H4
•
50 Blvd Voltaire,
75011 This venerable salle de spectacle concert hall attracts a wide range
• 91 Blvd Beaumarchais, 75003 • 01 42 78 11 96 Italian pizzeria with an industrial loftstyle decor attracts a hip crowd. Authentic pizzas and classy cocktails.
Panic Room 8 Le MAP H4 101 Rue Amelot, •
75011 Top Parisian DJs set the tone at this quirky bar offering fancy cocktails, a smoking room and cellar dance floor.
Square Trousseau 9 Le MAP H5 1 Rue Antoine •
Vollon, 75012 This charming Bastille district brasserie, with its lovely heated terrace, is something of a media haunt, serving good food from breakfast into the early hours.
Progrès 0 Le MAP R2 1 Rue de Bretagne, •
75003 • 01 42 72 01 44 The pavement terrace of this corner café in the trendy Northern Marais fills up during Paris Fashion Week.
Marais and the Bastille ❮❮ 101
Places to Eat 1 L’Ambroisie MAP R3 9 Pl des Vosges, •
75004 01 42 78 51 45 Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ The finest service matches the finest of food. The wine list is renowned and the chocolate tart is out of this world. Reserve in advance. •
•
€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
Clown Bar 5 Le MAP H4 114 Rue Amelot, •
Café des Musées
2 MAP R2
• 49 Rue de Turenne, 75003 • 01 42 72 96 17 • No disabled access • €€ A traditional bistro, which serves classic French dishes such as steak tartare and crème brûlée.
75011 • 01 43 55 87 35 • €€–€€€ Inventive, contemporary dishes, such as snails with orange pesto, are served in a delightful circus-themed Art Nouveau setting. Great wine too.
Café 6 Breizh MAP G4 109 Rue Vieille du •
Carette
3 MAP G4
• 25 Pl des Vosges, 75003 • 01 48 87 94 07 • €€ Salads and sandwiches, as well as delicious cakes, feature at this patisserie and tea room on the picturesque place des Vosges.
Au Vieux Chêne
4 7 Rue Dahomey, 75011
PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges
Temple, 75003 • 01 42 72 13 77 • Closed Mon, Tue • € An award-winning crêperie with a contemporary take on both savoury and sweet Breton pancakes. Try the healthier buckwheat crêpes.
Baron Rouge 7 Le MAP H5 1 Rue Théophile •
01 43 71 67 69 • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug • €€ Hidden down a side street, this atmospheric bistro is a treat. Expect updated French classics such as duck pot-au-feu with foie gras. •
Roussel, 75012 • 01 43 43 14 32 • Closed Mon • Limited disabled access • € Cold meats, cheeses and oysters are served in an authentic setting next to Marché d’Aligre (see p71).
Paul 8 Chez MAP H5 13 Rue de Charonne, •
75011 • 01 47 00 34 57 • €€ This old-style bistro has a simple but delicious menu. Book ahead.
9 Septime MAP H5 80 Rue de Charonne, •
75011 • 01 43 67 38 29 • €€€ This modern restaurant serves dishes such as cress and sorrel risotto and veal tartare. Book ahead.
du Fallafel 0 L’As MAP Q3 34 Rue des Rosiers, •
Interior of Chez Paul
75004 • 01 48 87 63 60 • Closed Fri D, Sat • € This is one of the best falafel joints in the city. The special with aubergine and spicy sauce is a must. See map on pp92–3
102 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Tuileries and Opéra Quarters These two quarters were once the province of the rich and the royal, and there’s still an air of luxury about them. Adjoining the lovely Tuileries Gardens is the largest museum in the world, the Louvre, while the grand Opera House gives the second quarter its name. The place de la Concorde is one of the most historic sites in the city. Statue of Medea, Jardin des Tuileries
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Tuileries and Opéra Quarters ❮❮ 103 du Louvre 1 Musée See pp12–15. de Rivoli 2 Rue MAP M2
Commissioned by Napoleon and named for his victory over the Austrians at Rivoli in 1797, this grand street links the Louvre with the Champs-Elysées (see p111). It was intended as a backdrop for his victory marches but was not finished until the 1850s, long after the emperor’s death. Along one side, railings replaced the old Tuileries walls, opening up the view, while opposite, Neo-Classical apartments sit atop the long arcades. These are now lined with a mix of shops that sells everything from luxury goods to tourist souvenirs.
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de la Concorde 3 Place MAP D3
This historic octagonal square, covering more than 8 ha (20 acres), was built between 1755 and 1775 as the grand setting for a statue of Louis XV; by 1792 it had become the place de la Révolution and its central monument was the guillotine. Louis XVI, Marie-Antoinette and more than 1,000 others were executed here (see p43). In 1795, in the spirit of reconciliation, it received its present name. The central obelisk, 23-m (75-ft) tall and covered in hieroglyphics, is from a 3,300-year-old Luxor temple, and was a gift from Egypt, erected in 1833. Two fountains and eight statues represent French cities. On the north side of the square are the Hôtel de la Marine and Hôtel Crillon.
des Tuileries 4 Jardin MAP J2
These gardens (see p56) were first laid out as part of the old Tuileries Palace, which was built for Catherine de Médicis in 1564 but burned down in 1871. André Le Nôtre redesigned them into formal French gardens in 1664. At the Louvre end is the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, erected by Napoleon in 1808. Also here is the entrance to an underground shopping centre, the Carrousel du Louvre. Nearby, sensuous nude sculptures by Aristide Maillol (1861–1944) adorn the ornamental pools and walkways. At the far end are the Jeu de Paume gallery (see p53) and the Musée de l’Orangerie (see p52), famous for its giant canvases of Monet waterlilies.
104 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area STORMING OF THE TUILERIES Visiting the Tuileries Gardens now, where children play and lovers stroll, it is hard to imagine the scenes that took place here on 20 June 1792. The palace and gardens were invaded by French citizens seeking to overthrow the monarchy. This was finally achieved on 10 August, when the Tuileries Palace was sacked and Louis XVI overthrown.
des Arts 5 Musée Décoratifs MAP M2 • 107 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm Thu) • Admission charge • www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr This huge collection covers the decorative arts from the Middle Ages to the 20th century. With over 100 rooms, its many highlights include the Medieval and Renaissance rooms, the Art Deco rooms and a superb jewellery collection. There are also displays of fashion, textiles, posters and advertising ephemera showcased in permanent and temporary exhibitions. •
Nouveau Museum 6 Art MAP D3 3 Rue Royale, 75008 •
Open Wed–Sun for guided tours 2pm (in English) and 3:15pm • Admission charge • www.maximsmusee-artnouveau.com This small museum (which is part of the famous Maxim’s restaurant) houses Pierre Cardin’s impressive Art Nouveau collection. The 550 works of art, by big names such as Tiffany, Toulouse-Lautrec, Galle Massier and Marjorelle, are set in a recreated 1900s apartment. A guided visit can be combined with dinner in the glamorous restaurant. •
home to jewellers and financiers today. The world-famous Ritz hotel was established here at the turn of the 20th century. The column, topped by a statue of Napoleon, is a replica of the one destroyed by the Commune in 1871.
Royal 8 Palais MAP L1 Pl du Palais Royal, •
75001 • Open Oct–Mar: 7am–8:30pm daily; Apr–May: 7am–10:15pm daily; Jun–Aug: 7am–11pm daily; Sep: 7am–9:30pm daily • Public access to gardens and arcades only In the late 18th century extensive changes were made under the dukes of Orléans. The architect Victor Louis was commissioned to build 60 uniformly styled houses around three sides of the square and the adjacent theatre, which now houses the Comédie Française (see p65). Today the arcades house specialist shops, galleries and restaurants, and the courtyard and gardens contain modern works of art (see p47).
National 9 Opéra de Paris Garnier MAP E2 • Pl de l’Opéra, 75009 • 08 25 05 44 05 • Open 10am–4:40pm daily (to 5:30pm mid-Jul–end Aug) (closes at 1pm on day of matinee performances; closed public hols) • Admission charge • www.operadeparis.fr Designed by Charles Garnier for Napoleon III in 1862,
Vendôme 7 Place MAP E3
Jules Hardouin-Mansart, the architect of Versailles (see p155), designed the façades of this elegant royal square for Louis XIV in 1698. Originally intended for foreign embassies, bankers soon moved in and built lavish dwellings. It remains
Place Vendôme and Vendôme column
Tuileries and Opéra Quarters ❮❮ 105 A DAY IN THE TUILERIES Hédiard
l'Église de la Madeleine
Art Nouveau Museum
Opéra Garnier
place de la Madeleine Lescure Le Meurice
place de la Concorde
rue de Rivoli Jardin des Tuileries Carrousel du Louvre
Performance at Opéra Garnier
Paris’s opulent opera house took 13 years to complete. A range of styles from Classical to Baroque incorporates stone friezes and columns, statues and a green copper cupola. The ornate interior has a grand staircase, mosaic domed ceiling over the grand foyer and an auditorium with a ceiling by Marc Chagall. There’s even an underground lake – the inspiration for Gaston Leroux’s Phantom of the Opera – sadly closed to visitors (see p64).
de la Madeleine 0 Place MAP D3
Surrounded by 52 Corinthian columns, the huge, Classicalstyle Madeleine church (see p48) commands this elegant square. On the east side a colourful flower market takes place from Monday to Saturday. Around the square are some of the most upmarket épiceries (food stores) and speciality shops in the city (see p70).
Louvre
MORNING
Visiting the Louvre (see pp12–15) takes planning, and you should get there at least 15 minutes before opening (unless you’ve already bought your ticket). Spend the whole morning there and pick up a map as you enter so that you can be sure to see the main highlights. Have a morning coffee in the elegant Richelieu, Denon or Mollien cafés within the museum. From the Louvre, either visit the Carrousel du Louvre’s under ground shops or walk along Rue de Rivoli towards Place de la Concorde (see p103). This end of the street is filled with souvenir shops and overpriced cafés so turn right onto rue Mondovi for a good lunch at Lescure, a little rustic bistro (7 Rue de Mondovi • 01 73 20 23 88 • Closed Sat, Sun). AFTERNOON
After being indoors all morning, get some fresh air in the Jardin des Tuileries (see p103) then walk down to place de la Madeleine to spend the afternoon browsing in its many gourmet stores, or visit the Art Nouveau Museum and be dazzled by its decorative arts collection. Later, take tea in the restaurant of one of the best shops, Hédiard (see p106). Spend the evening attending a classical music concert at La Madeleine (see p48) or watching a performance at Opéra National de Paris Garnier. Finish the day with a delicious gastronomic dinner at threeMichelinstarred Le Meurice (see p107).
See map on pp102–3
106 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Food Shops salmon and other fishy fare, along with a wide range of vodkas. Try an amazing baked potato with caviar in the upstairs dining room.
Maison de la Truffe 5 La MAP D3 19 Pl de la •
Madeleine, 75008 France’s finest black truffles are sold here during the winter. Preserved truffles and other delicacies can be savoured in the shop or at home.
Maison du Miel 6 La MAP D3 24 Rue Vignon, •
75009 The “house of honey”, family-owned since 1908, is the place to try speciality honeys, to spread on your toast or your body in the form of soaps and oils.
Fresh fruit outside Hédiard
1 Hédiard MAP D3 21 Pl de la •
Madeleine, 75008 Founded in 1854, this world food emporium features a cornucopia of fruits and vegetables, teas, truffles and a host of other gourmet delights.
2 Fauchon MAP D3 26–30 Pl de la •
Madeleine, 75008 The king of Parisian épiceries (grocers). The mouthwatering window displays are works of art and tempt you inside for pastries, exotic fruits and some 3,500 other items.
Maille 7 Boutique MAP D3 6 Pl de la Madeleine, •
75008 The retail outlet for one of France’s finest mustard-makers. Fresh mustard served in lovely ceramic jars and seasonal limited edition mustards are available.
Maison du 8 La Chocolat MAP E3 • 8 Blvd Madeleine, 75009 A superb chocolate shop, which offers fine chocolates and exquisite patisserie including eclairs, tarts and mouthwatering macarons.
de 3 Marquise Sévigné MAP D3 • 11 Pl de la Madeleine, 75008 Chocolates and dragées (sugar-coated almonds) are the speciality at this haven for those with a sweet tooth.
Fauchon biscuit tin
Kaspia 4 Caviar MAP D3 17 Pl de la •
Madeleine, 75008 The peak of indulgence. Caviars from around the world, plus smoked eel,
Hermé 9 Pierre MAP E3 39 Ave de •
l’Opéra, 75002 A rainbow of exquisite macarons in every flavour you can imagine is yours for the picking.
0 Ladurée MAP D3 16 Rue Royale, 75008 •
A splendid belle époque tea salon that has been serving some of the best macarons in Paris since 1862.
Tuileries and Opéra Quarters ❮❮ 107
Places to Eat Victoires 1 Bistrot MAP F3 6 Rue de la Vrillière,
PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges
•
75001 01 42 61 43 78 €€ With its vintage décor and exemplary duck confit, this much-loved neighbourhood bistro is often packed. •
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Meurice 2 Le MAP E3 228 Rue de Rivoli, •
75001 • 01 44 58 10 55 • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug • €€€ Try the sea bream with beetroot and caviar at Alain Ducasse’s threeMichelin-starred establishment.
€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
6 Kunitoraya MAP E3 1 Rue Villedo, 75001 •
01 47 03 33 65 • € There’s often a queue at this bustling udon bar serving perfect noodles in a rich broth. A larger sister restaurant is along the road at No. 5. •
Grand Véfour A Casaluna 3 Le MAP E3 17 Rue de Beaujolais, 7 MAP E3 6 Rue Beaujolais, •
•
75001 • 01 42 96 56 27 • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug, some of Dec • No disabled access • €€€ Guy Martin’s beautiful 18th-century restaurant has two Michelin stars and is a gourmet treat.
75001 • 01 42 60 05 11 • No disabled access • €–€€ Traditional Corsican specialities such as baked aubergine with goat’s cheese are served at this charming restaurant. Round off the meal with a chestnut or myrtle digestif.
Carton 4 Lucas Willi’s Wine Bar MAP D3 9 Pl de la Madeleine, 75008 01 42 65 22 90 Closed Aug, 8 MAP E3 13 Rue des Petits •
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public hols • No disabled access • €€€ Chef Julien Dumas takes the reigns at one of Paris’s oldest gourmet restaurants. Superb quality food.
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Champs, 75001 • 01 42 61 05 09 • Closed Sun, 10 days Aug • €€ This cosy bar is a popular haunt for lovers of modern French food and wines from small producers.
Castiglione 5 Café 9 Restaurant du Palais Royal MAP E3 235 Rue St-Honoré, •
75001 • 01 42 60 68 22 • €€ The burgers at this classic brasserie are so popular that even the style gurus of Fashion Week will indulge.
MAP E3 • 110 Galerie de Valois, 75001 • 01 40 20 00 27 • Closed Sun, Mon • No disabled access • €€€ Contemporary French food is served in the bucolic setting of the Palais Royal gardens (see p57).
0 Verjus MAP E3
Café Castiglione
• 52 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 • 01 42 97 54 40 • Closed Sat, Sun • €€€ You need to book in advance for the set six-course gourmet dinner in the intimate dining room, but you can simply turn up to enjoy a lighter bite in the wine bar (47 rue Montpensier), which doesn’t accept bookings.
See map on pp102–3
110 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Champs-Elysées Quarter The Champs-Elysées is the most famous street in Paris and the quarter that lies around it radiates wealth and power. It is home to the president of France, embassies and haute couture fashion houses, as well as five-star hotels and fine restaurants. The Champs-Elysées runs from place de la Concorde to place Charles de Gaulle, and it’s here that France celebrates national events or mourns at Petit Palais the funeral cortèges of the great and good.
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Champs-Elysées Quarter ❮❮ 111 de Triomphe 1 Arc See pp30–31. des Champs2 Avenue Elysées MAP C3 One of the most famous avenues in the world came into being when the royal gardener André Le Nôtre planted an arbour of trees beyond the border of the Jardin des Tuileries in 1667 (see p103). First called the Grand Cours (Great Way), it was later renamed after the Elysian Fields. In the mid19th century it acquired pedestrian paths, fountains, gas lights and cafés, and became the fashionable place for socializing and entertainment. Since the funeral of Napoleon in
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Palais 3 Grand MAP D3 3 Ave du GénéralEisenhower, 75008 • 01 44 13 17 17 • Opening hours vary according to exhibition • Closed 1 May • Admission charge depending on exhibition • www.grandpalais.fr This immense belle époque exhibition hall was built for the Universal Exhibition in 1900. Its splendid glass roof is a landmark of the ChampsElysées. The façade is a mix of Art Nouveau ironwork, Neo-Classical stone columns and a mosaic frieze, with bronze horses and chariots at the four corners of the roof. The Galleries du Grand Palais host temporary art exhibitions.
Palais 4 Petit MAP D3 Ave Winston Churchill, •
Concorde Concorde
PLACE PLACE DE LA DE LA CONCORDE CONCORDE
SA R YS A Y I A I D ’ ODR’ O Q UQA U
1840, it has also been the route for state processions, victory parades and other city events. The Rond-Point des Champs-Elysées is the prettiest part, with chestnut trees and flowerbeds. Formerly touristy parts have been revamped but flagship stores of international brands have made for less interesting shopping. A walk along the avenue is still an essential Paris experience.
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75008 • 01 53 43 40 00 • Open 10am– 6pm Tue–Sun (to 9pm Fri for temporary exhibitions) • Closed 1 May, 14 Jul, 15 Aug, 25 Dec • www.petitpalais.paris.fr The “little palace” echoes its neighbour in style. Set around a semicircular courtyard, with Ionic columns and a dome, the building now houses the Musée des Beaux Arts de la Ville de Paris (see p72).
112 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area focus on invention and innovation in the sciences, from biology and chemistry to astronomy and physics, with interactive exhibits and demonstrations. Make sure you allow enough time to pay the spectacular magnetism show a visit. There is also a planetarium, while the Planète Terre (Planet Earth) rooms examine global warming.
du Faubourg 7 Rue St-Honoré MAP D3 Running parallel to the ChampsElysées, this is Paris’s equivalent of Fifth Avenue, Bond Street or Rodeo Drive. From Christian Lacroix and Versace to Gucci and Hermès, the shopfronts read like a Who’s Who of fashion. Even if the prices may be out of reach, window-shopping is fun. There are also elegant antiques and art galleries. Look out for swallows that nest on many of the 19thcentury façades. Palais de la Découverte
Pont Alexandre III
5 MAP D3
Built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition to carry visitors over the Seine to the Grand and Petit Palais, this bridge is a superb example of the steel architecture and ornate Art Nouveau style popular at the time. Named after Alexander III of Russia, who laid the foundation stone, its decoration displays both Russian and French heraldry. The bridge creates a splendid thoroughfare from the Champs-Elysées to the Hôtel des Invalides (see p55).
de la Découverte 6 Palais MAP D3 Ave Franklin-D•
Roosevelt, 75008 • Open 9:30am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9:30am–7pm Sat, 10am–7pm Sun • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 14 Jul, 25 Dec • Admission charge • www.palais-decouverte.fr Set in a wing of the Grand Palais, this wonderful museum showcasing scientific discovery was created by a Nobel Prize-winning physicist for the World’s Fair of 1937. The exhibits
Montaigne 8 Avenue MAP C3
In the 19th century the Avenue Montaigne was a nightlife hotspot. Parisians danced the night away at the Mabille Dance Hall until it closed in 1870 and Adolphe Sax made music with his newly invented saxophone in the Winter Garden. Today this chic avenue is a rival to the rue FaubourgSt-Honoré as the home to more haute couture houses, such as Christian Dior and Valentino. There are also luxury hotels, top restaurants, popular cafés, and the Comédie des Champs-Elysées and Théâtre des Champs-Elysées. LA MARSEILLAISE The stirring French national anthem was written in 1792 by a French army engineer named Claude Joseph Rouget de Lisle. He lived for a time in this district, at 15 Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré. The rousing song got its name due to being sung by the troops from Marseille who were prominent in the storming of the Tuileries during the Revolution (see p43).
Champs-Elysées Quarter ❮❮ 113 de l’Elysée 9 Palais MAP D3 55 Rue du Faubourg •
St-Honoré, 75008 • Closed to the public Built in 1718, after the Revolution this elegant palace was turned into a dance hall, then, in the 19th century, became the residence of Napoleon’s sister Caroline Murat, followed by his wife Empress Josephine. His nephew, Napoleon III, also lived here while plotting his 1851 coup. Since 1873 it has been the home of the president of France. For this reason, it is worth noting that the palace guards don’t like people getting too close to the building (see p47).
A DAY OF SHOPPING
Arc de Triomphe Prince de Galles Le Cinq Avenue George V
Avenue des Champs Elysées
Ladurée
Avenue Montaigne Grand Palais Bar des Théâtres
MORNING
The Champs-Elysées quarter is a good area for leisurely walks. Start the morning strolling the grounds of the belle époque Grand Palais (see p111). The galleries host excellent exhibitions. Make your way to the Avenue Montaigne for exquisite windowshopping – Prada and Dior, among others, have their flagship stores here. Take a break in the Bar des Théâtres (44 Rue Jean Goujon • 01 47 23 34 63), where fashion names and the theatre crowd from the Comédie des Champs-Elysées hang out.
Musée Jacquemart-André
Jacquemart0 Musée André MAP C2 • 158 Blvd Haussmann, 75008 01 45 62 11 59 • Open 10am–6pm daily (to 8:30pm Mon for temporary exhibits) • Admission charge • www. musee-jacquemart-andre.com This fine display of art and furniture, once belonging to avid collectors Edouard André and his wife Nélie Jacquemart, is housed in a late 19th-century mansion. It is best known for its Italian Renaissance works, including frescoes by Tiepolo and Paolo Uccello’s St George and the Dragon (c.1435). The reception rooms feature the art of the 18th-century “Ecole française”, with paintings by François Boucher and Jean-Honoré Fragonard. A charming period tearoom overlooks the gardens. •
Call ahead for a table at Le Cinq (see p117) to splurge on lunch, and head up the elegant Avenue Georges V, which is lined with luxury boutiques including Armani and Hermès, and grandedame hotels such as legendary Prince de Galles (see p173). AFTERNOON
Walk to and along the ChampsElysées (see p111), with French chanteur Joe Dassin’s jaunty 1969 tune in mind. The flagship stores of lots of high-end brands are here, along with luxury car showrooms and fast-food outlets – housed in some notable buildings. For tea and cakes en route, Ladurée (75 Ave des ChampsElyseés • 01 40 75 08 75) is a wonderfully elegant experience. Take the underpass to the Arc de Triomphe (see pp30–31) and climb to the top for the views, which are superb at dusk when the avenues radiating out from here light up.
See map on p110–11
114 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
International Connections de Marigny 1 Avenue MAP C3 American author John Steinbeck lived here for five months in 1954 and described Parisians as “the luckiest people in the world”.
2 8MAPRueC2Artois
Here, in September 2001, legendary Belgian mobster François Vanverbergh – godfather of the French Connection gang – fell victim to a drive-by assassin as he took his afternoon mineral water.
Avenue Montaigne 3 37 MAP C3
Having wowed Paris with her comeback performances, iconic German actress and singer Marlene Dietrich spent her reclusive final years in a luxury apartment here.
de l’Alma 4 Pont MAP C3
Diana, Princess of Wales, was killed in a tragic accident in the underpass here in 1997. Her unofficial memorial nearby attracts thousands of visitors each year (see p54).
Avenue George V, 5 31 Hôtel George V MAP C3 A roll-call of rockers – from the Rolling Stones and Jim Morrison to J-Lo and Madonna – have made this hotel their regular Paris home-from-home. Hôtel George V
Marcel Proust
Boulevard 6 102 Haussmann MAP D2 Hypochondriac author Marcel Proust lived in a cork-lined room (on display in the Musée Carnavalet, see p94), turning memories into a masterpiece – In Search of Lost Time.
Avenue George V 7 37 MAP C3
Franklin D. Roosevelt and his new bride Eleanor visited his aunt’s apartment here in 1905. He was later commemorated in the name of a nearby avenue.
Avenue des 8 49 Champs-Elysées MAP C3 Author Charles Dickens may well have had “the best of times and the worst of times” when he resided here during the winter of 1855–6. Ten years earlier he had also lived at 38 Rue de Courcelles.
Avenue des 9 114 Champs-Elysées MAP C2 Brazilian aviation pioneer Alberto Santos-Dumont planned many of his amazing aeronautical feats – notably that of circling the Eiffel Tower in an airship in 1901 – from this address.
d’Elysée-Palace 0 Hôtel MAP C3
Mata Hari, the Dutch spy and exotic dancer, set up her lair in Room 113 before finally being arrested outside 25 Avenue Montaigne.
Champs-Elysées Quarter ❮❮ 115
Events on the Champs-Elysées November 1970 1 1616 8 12 Paris’s grand avenue was first The death of President laid out when Marie de Médicis, wife of Henri IV, had a carriage route, the Cours-la-Reine (Queen’s Way), constructed through the marshland along the Seine.
Charles de Gaulle was an immense event in France, as he had been the single most dominant French political figure for 30 years. He was honoured by a silent parade along the Champs-Elysées.
2 1667 July 1989 Landscape gardener Le Nôtre 9 14 lengthened the Jardin des Tuileries The parade on Bastille Day to meet the Cours-la-Reine, and opened up the view with a double row of chestnut trees, creating the Grand Cours.
3 1709 The avenue was renamed the
Champs-Elysées (Elysian Fields). In Greek mythology, the Elysian Fields were the “place of ideal happiness”, the abode of the blessed after death.
marking the bicentennial of the Revolution was a dazzling display of folk culture and avant-garde theatre. It was a distinct change from the usual military events, and was organized by Mitterand’s Culture Minister, Jack Lang.
4 1724 The Duke of Antin, overseer
of the royal gardens, extended the avenue to the heights of Chaillot, the present site of the Arc de Triomphe (see pp30–31).
5 1774 Architect Jacques-Germain
Soufflot lowered the hill of the Champs-Elysées by 5 m (16 ft) to reduce the steep gradient, therefore making an easier and safer passage for residents’ horses and carriages.
August 1944 6 26 Parisians celebrated the liberation of the city from Nazi Occupation with triumphant processions and festivities.
Crowds celebrate a World Cup win
May 1968 7 30 July 1998 The infamous demonstrations 0 12 of May 1968, when student protests Huge, ecstatic crowds packed against state authority spilled over into massive gatherings and riots. De Gaulle and his supporters held a huge counter-demonstration on the Champs-Elysées, marking a turning point in the uprising.
the Champs-Elysées to celebrate France’s football team, “Les Bleus”, winning the World Cup. People came from all over Paris and beyond to join in the festivities that captured the nation’s imagination. See map on p110–11
116 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Designer Shops 6 Joseph MAP C3 14 Ave Montaigne, •
75008 Renovated by the leading architect Raed Abilama, this shop stocks the Joseph brand and a selection of other designer labels.
Sander 7 Jil MAP C3 56 Ave Montaigne, •
Chanel boutique window
1 Chanel MAP C3 51 Ave Montaigne, •
75008 Chanel classics, from the braided tweed jackets to two-toned shoes, as well as Lagerfeld’s more daring designs, are displayed in this branch of the main rue Cambon store.
75008 A minimal and modern store, just like the clothes it sells. Sander’s trouser suits, cashmere dresses and overcoats in neutral colours are displayed on two floors.
8 Chloé MAP C3
• 44 Ave Montaigne, 75008 Simple, classy, ready-to-wear designer women’s clothes and accessories are sold in this minimalist temple to feminine chic.
Dior 2 Christian MAP C3 30 Ave Montaigne, 9 Eres 75008 MAP C3 •
The grey and white decor, with silk bows on chairs, makes a chic backdrop for fashions from lingerie to evening wear.
3 Givenchy MAP C3 28 Rue du Faubourg •
St-Honoré, 75008 This fashion house has been synonymous with Parisian style since the 1930s. Shop for women’s and men’s ready-to-wear outfits here.
4 Balenciaga MAP C3 10 Ave George V, •
75008 This world-famous label is known for its modern creations, which are now designed by Demna Gvasalia.
Prada 5 Boutique MAP C3 10 Ave Montaigne,
• 40 Ave Montaigne, 75008 A range of luxury but understated swimwear and lingerie, in subtle colours, is beautifully displayed in this elegant boutique. Everything has a certain Parisian sensuality.
Bui 0 Barbara MAP C3 50 Ave Montaigne, •
75008 High-end Parisian fashion designer Barbara Bui has been creating elegant womenswear and accessories since the 1980s. Her collection is made from colourful, luxury fabrics.
•
75008 The iconic Italian designer’s stylish boutique displays clothes and accessories from the latest collection.
Barbara Bui bag
Champs-Elysées Quarter ❮❮ 117
Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
Ducasse au Plaza 1 Alain Athénée MAP C3 • Hôtel Plaza Athénée, 25 Ave Montaigne, 75008 • 01 58 00 22 43 • Closed Mon–Wed L, Sat, Sun, Aug, some of Dec • €€€ The menu at superchef Alain Ducasse’s flagship three-Michelinstarred restaurant focuses on sustainable fish, cereals and vegetables.
Mini Palais 2 Le MAP D3 Grand Palais, Ave •
Winston Churchill, 75008 • 01 42 56 42 42 • €€€ Chef Eric Frechon oversees the menu at this chic restaurant and cocktail bar. Try the tandoori salmon with preserved lemons.
Café Artcurial 3 Le MAP C3 7 Rond-Point des •
Champs-Elysées-Marcel Dassault, 75008 • 01 53 76 39 34 • €€ Modern Italian cuisine is on the menu, along with club sandwiches and home-made burgers, served in a grand former auction house.
Bellota 4 Bellota MAP C3 11 Rue Clément •
Marot, 75008 • 01 47 20 03 13 • € This intimate tapas bar and Spanish deli is a great place for excellent tapas, luxurious carvings of jamón ibérico and glasses of Spanish wine.
5 Taillevent MAP C3 15 Rue Lamennais, •
75008 • 01 44 95 15 01 • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug • €€€ One of the city’s best dining experiences. The menu changes often, relying on fresh, seasonal ingredients (see p66).
Interior of Epicure
6 Epicure MAP D2 112 Rue du •
Faubourg St-Honoré, 75008 • 01 53 43 43 40 • €€€ In Hotel Le Bristol’s elegant dining room or on the garden terrace, diners can choose from chef Eric Frechon’s three-Michelin-starred menu.
7 Gagnaire MAP C3 6 Rue Balzac, 75008 •
01 58 36 12 50 • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug, 1 week Dec–Jan • No disabled access • €€€ Chef Pierre Gagnaire is legendary for his artistry in blending flavours. •
and Roses 8 Bread MAP D3 25 Rue Boissy •
d’Anglas, 75008 • 01 47 42 40 00 • Closed Sun • € A fabulous tea salon and bakery. Great for breakfast or lunch.
des Chefs 9 L’Atelier MAP D2 10 Rue de Penthièvre, •
75008 • 01 53 30 05 82 • Closed Sun • www.atelierdeschefs.fr • € This cooking school offers a range of classes in French, from €17 for a lunchtime session, after which you get to eat the meal you’ve made.
Cinq 0 Le MAP C3 31 Ave George V, •
75008 • 01 49 52 70 00 • €€€ The George V’s (see p114) twoMichelin-starred restaurant serves French cuisine with a modern twist. See map on pp110–11
118 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters
Two of Paris’s best-known landmarks, the goldendomed Hôtel des Invalides and the Eiffel Tower, are found in these quarters. Large parts of the district were created in the 19th century, when there was still room to construct wide avenues and grassy esplanades. To the east of Les Invalides are numerous stately mansions, now converted into embassies, and the French parliament. Jean Nouvel’s Musée du quai Branly is a striking feature beside the Seine. The top of the Eiffel Tower
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Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters ❮❮ 119 des Invalides 1 Hôtel See pp38–9. Tower 2 Eiffel See pp24–5. Egouts 3 Les MAP C4 Opposite 93, Quai •
d’Orsay, 75007 • Open May–Sep: 11am–5pm Sat–Wed; Oct–Apr: 11am–4pm Sat–Wed • Closed 1 Jan, two weeks mid-Jan, 25 Dec • No disabled access • Admission charge In a city of glamour and grandeur, the sewers (égouts) of Paris are an incongruously popular attraction. They date from the Second Empire (1851–70), when Baron Haussmann was transforming the city (see p43).
The sewers, which helped to sanitize and ventilate Paris, are considered one of his finest achievements. Engineer Eugène Belgrand provided the designs for the ambitious project. The 2,100-km (1,300-mile) network covers the area from Les Halles to La Villette – if laid end-to-end it would stretch from Paris to Istanbul. An hour-long tour includes a walk through some of the tunnels. The Paris Sewers Museum, which is situated in the sewers beneath the Quai d’Orsay on the Left Bank, tells the story of the city’s water and sewers, from their beginnings to the present day through exhibits and an audio-visual show.
de l’Armée 4 Musée MAP C4 Hôtel des Invalides, •
PortPort des des Champs-Elysées Champs-Elysées PontPont Alexandre Alexandre III III
PontPont de lade la Concorde Concorde
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75007 • Open 10am–6pm Apr-Oct, 10am–5pm Nov-Mar • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Admission charge The Army Museum contains one of the largest and most comprehensive collections of arms, armour and displays on military history in the world offering a rich and varied visit. The range of weapons on display include examples from prehistoric times to those used during World War II. Housed in the Hôtel des Invalides, the galleries occupy the old refectories in two wings on either side of the courtyard. The museum’s ticket price includes entry to the Musée des Plans-Reliefs, the Historial Charles de Gaulle, the Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération and Napoleon’s Tomb (see pp38–9).
Top 10 Sights see pp119–121 Places to Eat see p123 Mansions see p122
Courtyard of the Musée de l’Armée
120 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area Rodin 5 Musée MAP C4 77 Rue de Varenne,
YOUNG NAPOLEON
•
75007 • Open 10am–5:45pm Tue– Sun (until 8:45pm Wed) • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Admission charge • www.musee-rodin.fr An impressive collection of works by Auguste Rodin (1840–1917) is housed in the splendid 18th-century Hôtel Biron (see p122), where the sculptor and artist spent the last nine years of his life. The museum showcases a broad collection of Rodin’s preparatory sketches, watercolours, and bronze and marble masterpieces, including The Kiss and Eve. Exhibits are displayed chronologically and thematically, showing the creative processes behind the artist’s finished sculptures – works that arguably paved the way for modern sculpture. Musée Rodin is also home to the third-largest private garden in Paris, where works such as The Thinker, Monument to Balzac and The Gates of Hell stand amid the lime trees and rose bushes.
du Quai Branly 6 Musée MAP B4 37 Quai Branly, •
75007 • Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sun (until 9pm Thu–Sat) • Closed 1 May, 25 Dec • Admission charge • www.quaibranly.fr The purpose of this museum is to showcase the arts of Africa, Asia, Oceania and the Americas. The collection boasts nearly 300,000 artifacts, of which 3,500 are on Musée du Quai Branly
The most famous alumnus of the Ecole Militaire was Napoleon Bonaparte, who was admitted as a cadet, aged 15, in 1784 and was deemed “fit to be an excellent sailor”. He graduated as a lieutenant in the artillery, and his passing-out report stated that “he could go far if the circumstances are right”. The rest, as they say, is history.
display, including a fantastic array of African instruments, Gabonese masks, Aztec statues and 17thcentury painted animal hides from North America (once the pride of the French royal family). Designed by Jean Nouvel, the building is an exhibit in itself: glass is ingeniously used to allow the surrounding greenery to act as a natural backdrop to the collection.
Cler 7 Rue MAP C4
The pedestrianized cobblestone road that stretches south of rue de Grenelle to avenue de La Motte-Picquet is the most exclusive street market in Paris. Here greengrocers, fishmongers, butchers and wine merchants sell top-quality produce to the well-heeled residents of the area. Tear yourself away from the mouthwatering displays of cheeses and pastries, however, to feast your eyes on the Art Nouveau building at No. 23, also home to a pleasant café.
Militaire 8 Ecole MAP C5 1 Pl Joffre, 75007 •
Open to the public by special permission only (apply in writing) At the urging of his mistress Madame Pompadour, Louis XV approved the building of the Royal Military Academy in 1751. Although its purpose was to educate the sons of impoverished officers, a grand edifice was designed by JacquesAnge Gabriel, architect of the place de la Concorde (see p103) and the Petit Trianon at Versailles, and completed in 1773. The central pavilion with its quadrangular dome •
Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters ❮❮ 121 and Corinthian pillars is a splendid example of the French Classical style. The massive complex is still in use as a military school today.
A DAY AROUND THE INVALIDES QUARTER Pont Alexandre III
Musée du quai Branly, Les Ombres
Eiffel Tower, Le Jules Verne
Rue SaintDominique
Les Cocottes
Musée de l’Armée Hôtel des Invalides
Musée Rodin
MORNING
Façade of the Ecole Militaire
9 UNESCO MAP C5 7 Pl de Fontenoy, •
75007 • 01 45 68 10 00 By appointment only The headquarters of the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) was built in 1958 by an international team of architects from France, Italy and the United States. The Y-shaped building of concrete and glass may seem unremarkable, but inside, the showcase of 20th-century work by renowned international artists is well worth a visit. There is a huge mural by Picasso, ceramics by Joan Miró, and a 2nd-century mosaic from El Djem in Tunisia. Outside is a giant mobile by Alexander Calder and a peaceful Japanese garden. •
Nationale 0 Assemblée MAP D4 33 Quai d’Orsay, •
75007 • Open for tours only (passport required); advance reservation required, see www. assemblee-nationale.fr Built for the daughter of Louis XIV in 1722, the Palais Bourbon has housed the lower house of the French parliament since 1827. The Council of the Five Hundred met here during the Revolution, and it was the headquarters of the German Occupation during World War II.
Begin the day with a visit to the Musée Rodin (see p120). A magnificent collection of Rodin’s works is displayed both indoors, and outside in the attractive garden. Stop for a coffee on the leafy terrace of the garden café. Stroll through the Esplanade des Invalides, with the Hôtel des Invalides (see pp38–9) as a grand backdrop. Pause to watch the pétanque players who gather in the shade of the trees along the eastern and western sides. Stop in to see Napoleon’s Tomb and the Musée de l’Armée (see p119). Towards the Seine, admire the splendid Pont Alexandre III (see p55) before heading towards rue Saint-Dominique for lunch at Les Cocottes (see p123), top chef Christian Constant’s breezy, informal bistro. AFTERNOON
After lunch, follow the rue de l’Université to the Musée du Quai Branly (see p120), where you can enjoy the fascinating collections of tribal art and superb modern architecture. The Café Branly, located in the museum’s restful gardens, is the perfect place to stop and enjoy a cup of tea. Make sure you book ahead, by phone or online, for a late afternoon visit to the Eiffel Tower (see pp24–5). The views are spectacular at dusk. Splash out on dinner at the world-famous Le Jules Verne on level 2 (see p66), or head back to the Quai Branly museum and its rooftop restaurant, Les Ombres (see p123). Book in advance for both.
See map on p118–19
122 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Mansions
Façade of the elegant Hôtel Biron
Biron d’Estrées 1 Hôtel 6 Hôtel MAP B5 79 Rue de Grenelle, Built in 1730, from 1904 this •
elegant mansion was transformed into state-owned artists’ studios. Among its residents was Auguste Rodin (1840–1917). After the sculptor’s death the house became the Musée Rodin (see p120).
Hôtel de Villeroy
2 MAP D4
78–80 Rue de Varenne, 75007 • Closed to the public Built in 1724 for Comedie-Française actress Charlotte Desmarnes, this is now the Ministry of Agriculture. •
75007 • Closed to the public Three floors of pilasters feature on the 1713 former Russian embassy. Tsar Nicolas II lived here in 1896. It is now a government building.
d’Avaray 7 Hôtel MAP B5 85 Rue de Grenelle, •
75007 • Closed to the public Dating from 1728, this mansion belonged to the Avaray family for nearly 200 years. It became the Dutch Embassy in 1920.
Matignon de Brienne 3 Hôtel 8 Hôtel MAP D4 57 Rue de Varenne, MAP D4 14–16 Rue St •
75007 • Closed to the public One of the most beautiful mansions in the area is now the official residence of the French prime minister.
•
Dominique, 75007 • Closed to the public This mansion houses the Ministry of Defence. Napoleon’s mother lived here from 1806 to 1817.
de Boisgelin 4 Hôtel de Noirmoutiers MAP D4 47 Rue de Varenne, 9 Hôtel 75007 Call 01 49 54 03 00 for MAP B5 138–140 Rue de •
•
•
appointment Built in 1732 by Jean Sylvain Cartaud, this mansion has housed the Italian Embassy since 1938.
Grenelle, 75007 • Closed to the public Built in 1724, this was once the army staff headquarters. It now houses ministerial offices.
de Gallifet de Monaco 5 Hôtel 0 Hôtel de Sagan MAP D4 50 Rue de Varenne, •
75007 • Galleries open 10am–1pm, 3–6pm daily This attractive mansion was built between 1776 and 1792 in Classical style. It is now the Italian Institute.
MAP D4 • 57 Rue St-Dominique, 75007 • Closed to the public Now the Polish ambassador’s house, this 1784 mansion served as the British Embassy until 1825.
Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters ❮❮ 123
Places to Eat Jules Verne 1 Le MAP B4 2nd Level, Eiffel
PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges
•
Tower, 75007 01 45 55 61 44 No disabled access • €€€ Book a window table for the view and then sit back and enjoy fine food from kitchen of Alain Ducasse. A reservation is required for dinner. •
•
Le Casse-Noix
2 MAP B5
• 56 Rue de la Fédération, 75015 • 01 45 66 09 01 • Closed Sat & Sun • No disabled access • €€ A charming restaurant serving classic desserts such as île flottante (a poached meringue “island” floating on a “sea” of vanilla custard).
3 L’Arpège MAP D4 84 Rue de Varenne, •
75007 • 01 47 05 09 06 • Closed Sat, Sun • No disabled access • €€€ Among the best restaurants in the city. Chef Alain Passard produces exquisite food.
Toutain 4 David MAP D4 29 Rue Surcouf, •
75007 • 01 45 50 11 10 • Closed Sat, Sun • €€€ Chef David Toutain delivers eclectic Michelin-starred cuisine that showcases fine seasonal produce and includes vegetarian dishes. The set lunch menu offers good value.
€ under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
Constant 5 Café MAP C4 139 Rue •
St-Dominique, 75007 • 01 47 53 73 34 • No disabled access • € This classic Parisian establishment serves seasonal, modern French fare to locals and tourists alike.
6 Thoumieux MAP C4 79 Rue •
St-Dominique, 75007 • 01 47 05 49 75 • €€€ Classic brasserie fare, such as tartare of beef followed by profiteroles, served in an Art Deco-inspired dining room.
Jean 7 L’Ami MAP C4 27 Rue Malar, 75007 •
01 47 05 86 89 • Closed Sun, Mon • No disabled access • €€€ Inventive dishes such as marinated scallops with ewe’s milk cheese. •
Cocottes 8 Les de Constant MAP C4 • 135 Rue St-Dominique, 75007 • 01 45 50 10 31 • €€ Star chef Christian Constant’s French take on a diner, with bar seating and delicious food.
Ombres 9 Les MAP B4 27 Quai Branly, •
75007 • 01 47 53 68 00 • €€€ Stylish rooftop restaurant offering fine food. At night it’s a great spot for watching the Eiffel Tower twinkle.
Fontaine de Mars 0 La MAP C4 129 Rue •
David Toutain interior
St-Dominique, 75007 • 01 47 05 46 44 • €€€ The rich, hearty cuisine of southwest France can be found on the menu here, with specialities such as cassoulet and duck confit.
124 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters St-Germain-des-Prés is a synonym for Paris’s café society, made famous by the writers and intellectuals who held court here in the first half of the 20th century. The Latin Quarter has been the scholastic centre of Paris for more than 700 years, and continues to buzz with student bookshops, cafés and jazz clubs. The area’s western border is the bustling Boulevard St-Michel; to the south is the Jardin du tranquil greenery of the Luxembourg Quarter. Luxembourg AREA MAP OF ST-GERMAIN, LATIN AND LUXEMBOURG QUARTERS
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St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ❮❮ 125 d’Orsay 1 Musée See pp16–19. Panthéon 2 The See pp34–5. du Luxembourg 3 Jardin MAP L6
This 25-ha (60-acre) park is a swathe of green on the very urban Left Bank. The formal gardens are set around the Palais du Luxembourg (see p47), with broad terraces circling the central octagonal pool. A highlight of the garden is the beautiful Medici Fountain (see p57). Statues, erected in the 19th century, include the
Palais du Luxembourg
painter Eugène Delacroix and St Geneviève, patron saint of Paris. There is also a children’s playground, open-air café, a bandstand, tennis courts, a puppet theatre and even a bee-keeping school (see p56).
4 St-Sulpice MAP L5 2 Rue Palatine, Pl •
Top 10 Sights see pp125–7
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Sorbonne 5 La MAP M5 47 Rue des Ecoles, •
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St-Sulpice, 75006 • Open 8am– 7:30pm daily Begun in 1646, this vast church took 134 years to build. Its Classical façade features a two-tiered colonnade and two incongruously matched towers. The two holy water fonts by the front door are made from huge shells given to François I by the Venetian Republic. Jacob Wrestling with the Angel and other fine murals by Delacroix (1798–1863) are in the chapel to the right of the main door.
Jardin Jardin desdes Plantes Plantes
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75005 • 01 40 46 23 48 • Group tours only, Mon–Fri and one Sat each month (advance booking) • Admission charge This famous university (see p47) was founded in 1253 as a theology college for poor students. It soon became the country’s main centre for religious studies. Philosophers Thomas Aquinas (c.1226–74) and Roger Bacon (1214–92) taught here; Italian poet Dante (1265–1321), founder of the Jesuits St Ignatius Loyola (1491– 1556), and church reformer John Calvin (1509–64) are among its list of alumni. Its tradition for conservatism led to its closure during the Revolution (it was reopened by Napoleon in 1806) and also the student riots of 1968.
126 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area JAZZ ON THE LEFT BANK Jazz has been played in Paris, especially on the Left Bank, since the 1920s. A great number of black musicians moved here from the US because they found France to be less racially prejudiced than their homeland, and Paris became a second home for many great jazz musicians, such as Sidney Bechet and Albert Nicholas (below). The city has never lost its love of jazz, nor jazz its love for the city.
St-Germain 6 Boulevard MAP J3
This famous Left Bank boulevard runs for more than 3 km (2 miles), anchored by the bridges of the Seine at either end. At its heart is the church of St-Germain-des-Prés, established in 542, although the present church dates from the 11th century. Beyond the famous literary cafés, Flore and Les Deux Magots (see p131), the boulevard runs west past art galleries, bookshops and
designer boutiques to the Pont de la Concorde. To the east, it cuts across the Latin Quarter, running through the pleasant street market in the place Maubert, to join the Pont de Sully, which connects to the Ile St-Louis (see p80).
National 7 Musée du Moyen Age MAP N5 • 6 Pl Paul Painlevé, 75005 • Open 9:15am–5:45pm Wed–Mon • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Admission charge • www.musee-moyenage.fr Also known as the Musée de Cluny, this impressive mansion was built by the abbots of Cluny at the end of the 15th century and now houses a magnificent collection of art, from the Gallo-Roman period to the 15th century. It adjoins the ruins of 2nd-century Roman baths (thermes) with their huge vaulted frigidarium (cold bath). Nearby are the 21 carved stone heads of the kings of Judea from Notre-Dame, decapitated during the Revolution. The highlight is the exquisite Lady and the Unicorn tapestry series, representing the five senses (see p50). Since 2015, the building has been undergoing renovation and, as a result, certain rooms may be closed. The museum though is still open to visitors.
Trees line the fashionable Boulevard St-Germain
St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ❮❮ 127 St-Michel 8 Boulevard MAP M4
The main drag of the Latin Quarter was created in the late 1860s as part of Baron Haussmann’s citywide makeover (see p43), and named after a chapel that once stood near its northern end. It is now lined with a lively mix of cafés, clothes shops and restaurants. Branching off to the east are rues de la Harpe and de la Huchette, which date back to medieval times. The latter forms an enclave of the city’s Greek community, with many souvlaki stands Statue of and Greek restauSt Michael rants. Place St-Michel was a pivotal spot during the Nazi occupation and again in the student riots of 1968. Its huge bronze fountain depicts St Michael killing a dragon.
de la Tournelle 9 Quai MAP P5
From this riverbank, just before the Pont de l’Archevêché, there are lovely views across to Notre-Dame. The main attraction of this and the adjacent Quai de Montebello, however, are the dark-green stalls of the bouquinistes (see p128). The Pont de la Tournelle also offers splendid views up and down the Seine.
Maillol 0 Musée MAP J4 59–61 Rue de Grenelle, •
75007 • Closed for renovations • www.museemaillol.com Dina Vierny, who modelled for the artist Aristide Maillol (1861–1944) from the ages of 15 to 25, went on to set up this foundation dedicated largely to his works. Located in an 18th-century mansion, it features sculpture, paintings, engravings and terracotta works. The museum puts on two temporary exhibitions per year, highlighting modern and contemporary art in its many forms.
A DAY ON THE LEFT BANK Musée d’Orsay, Café Campana Café de Les Deux Flore Magots Boulevard Quai de St-Germain Montebello Musée Maillol l'Épi Dupin
Shakespeare and Company Quai de la Tournelle
MORNING
This area is as much about atmosphere as sightseeing, so take time to soak up some of that Left Bank feeling. Begin on the Quai de la Tournelle, strolling by the booksellers here and on the adjacent Quai de Montebello, which runs parallel to rue de la Bûcherie, home to Shakespeare and Company (see p128). From here head south down any street away from the river to the busy Boulevard St-Germain. Turn right for two famous cafés, the Flore and Les Deux Magots, and stop for a break at either one (see p131), joining the locals talking the morning away. Cut your way south to the Rue de Grenelle and the Musée Maillol, a truly delightful, lesser-known museum. Then enjoy lunch at l’Épi Dupin (see p133), a popular bistro that attracts a mix of locals and tourists. AFTERNOON
The later you reach the Musée d’Orsay (see pp16–19) the less crowded it will be, but you’ll want to spend at least an hour or two browsing the collections. The most popular works on display are those of the Impressionists, on the upper level. When you’ve finished exploring the museum, you can rest and enjoy tea and cake in the stylish Café Campana or, if it’s dinner time, visit the museum’s belle époque dining room overlooking the Seine and indulge in their set menu (Thu only).
See map on pp124–5
128 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Booksellers Jeune 5 Gibert MAP F5 5 Place St-Michel, •
27 Quai St-Michel, 75006 A couple of bookshops that sell everything from travel guides and French literature to cookery books and children’s stories.
6 Album MAP L4 8 Rue Dante, 75005 •
This shop specializes in comic books (big business in France) from Tintin to erotica, as well as related merchandise.
Présence 7 Librairie Africaine
Shakespeare and Company
and 1 Shakespeare Company MAP N5 • 37 Rue de la Bûcherie, 75005 Bibliophiles spend hours in the rambling rooms and narrow passageways of Paris’s renowned English-language bookshop. There are regular author events and readings in English and French.
2 Bouquinistes MAP N5
The green stalls of the booksellers (bouquinistes) on the quays of the Left Bank are a Parisian landmark. Pore over the posters, old postcards, magazines, hardbacks, paperbacks, comics and sheet music.
MAP P6 • 25 Bis, Rue des Ecoles, 75005 • Closed Aug A specialist on books about Africa, as the name suggests. It’s an excellent information point, too, if you want to find out where to eat African food or hear African music.
Francisco Book Co. 8 San MAP M5 17 Rue Monsieur •
le Prince, 75006 This hodge-podge of all genres carries exclusively used English books at reasonable prices, as well as collectibles and a carefully chosen selection of new titles and classics. If you have books to sell, there is usually a buyer on duty.
9 Librairie Maeght
d’Orsay 3 Musée Bookshop As well as its wonderful collections, the museum has a remarkably large and busy art bookshop (see pp16–19).
Abbey Bookshop
MAP N5 • 42 Rue du Bac, 75007 Books on art are the focus here, next to the Maeght art gallery, as well as posters, postcards and other items.
Hune Abbey Bookshop 4 La MAP K4 170 Blvd St-Germain, 0 MAP N5 29 Rue de la •
75006 This renowned literary hang-out has good collections on art, photography and literature.
•
Parcheminerie, 75005 This quirky, Canadian-owned shop stocks books in French and English and serves coffee with maple syrup.
St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ❮❮ 129
Specialist Food Shops Roger Ryst Dupeyron 1 Patrick MAP F5 108 Blvd St-Germain, 7 MAP N5 79 Rue du Bac, •
75006 One of the new generation of chocolatiers, Patrick Roger already has legions of fans thanks to his lifelike sculptures and ganachefilled chocolates.
Christian Constant
2 MAP E5
• 37 Rue d’Assas, 75006 Renowned chef Christian Constant’s chocolate shop offers ganache, truffles and filled chocolates in a wide range of flavours.
Jean-Paul Hévin
3 MAP E6
3 Rue Vavin, 75006 • Closed Sun, Mon, Aug Another distinguished chocolatier. Elegant, minimalist presentation and superb flavour combinations. •
Poilâne
4 MAP E5
8 Rue du ChercheMidi, 75006 • Closed Sun Founded in the 1930s, this tiny bakery produces rustic, naturally leavened loaves in a woodfired oven (see p132). •
•
75007 • Closed Sun, Mon (am) Atmospheric wine shop specializing in fine Bordeaux, rare spirits and vintage Champagne.
Aoki 8 Sadaharu MAP E5 35 Rue de Vaugirard, •
75006 • Closed Mon Aoki cleverly incorporates Japanese flavours such as yuzu, green tea and black sesame into intoxicating classic French pastries that taste as good as they look.
Mulot 9 Gérard MAP L4 76 Rue de Seine, •
75006 • Closed Wed Here you’ll find some of the finest pastries in Paris, along with some truly miraculous macarons.
& Gallais 0 Debauve MAP K4 30 Rue des Sts-Pères, •
75007 • Closed Sun This exquisite shop dates from 1800 when chocolate was sold for medicinal purposes.
Dernière 5 La Goutte MAP E5 • 6 Rue Bourbon Le Château, 75006 The owners of this Englishspeaking wine shop, which specializes in bottles from small producers, also run the nearby wine bar Fish.
Hermé 6 Pierre Paris MAP L5 • 72 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 This bakery sells some of the city’s very finest cakes and pastries, including innovative flavoured macarons. Historic interior of Debauve & Gallais chocolatier See map on pp124–5
130 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Late-Night Bars de la Mairie 1 Café MAP K5 8 Pl St-Sulpice, •
75006 This is an old-fashioned Parisian café, which offers great views of St-Sulpice church from its busy pavement terrace. It is open until 2am daily except Sunday.
Cocktail 2 Prescription Club MAP L4 • 23 Rue Mazarine, 75006 The expertly mixed drinks are the main attraction at this chic and hip cocktail bar.
Comptoir des 3 Le Canettes – Chez Georges MAP E5 11 Rue des Canettes, 75006 Night owls flock to this old-school bar, which has been serving cheap beer and wine since 1952. The vaulted basement holds parties till 2am. •
Club 4 Castor MAP M4 14 Rue Hautefeuille, •
75006 • Closed Sun, Mon Clandestine cocktail bar with a great menu and a downstairs section.
10 Bar 5 Le MAP L5 10 Rue de l’Odéon, •
75006 This incredibly lively sangria bar, with an old jukebox, has been a neighbourhood institution since 1955. Happy hour is 6–8pm.
The Bombardier pub
Bombardier 6 The MAP F5 2 Pl du •
Panthéon, 75005 Sip drinks until 2am at this franglais pub, which offers great views of the Panthéon.
des Vins 7 Compagnie Surnaturels MAP E5 7 Rue Lobineau, 75006 This cosy, candlelit bar has a superb wine list that features several thousand wines. Enjoy a glass with a delicious plate of food. •
Bob Cool 8 Le MAP M4 15 Rue des Grands •
Augustins, 75006 • Closed Sun, Mon Close to St-Michel, this shabbychic bar plays host to thirsty local nighthawks as well as trendier partygoers on late-night cocktails.
Bar du Marché 9 Le MAP E5 75 Rue de •
Seine, 75006 This lively bar appeals to locals and tourists alike, mostly due to its reasonably priced drinks and jovial waiters.
0 O’Neil MAP E5
Interior of Le 10 Bar
• 20 Rue des Canettes, 75006 Artisanal beers, from light, bubbly blondes to thick brown ales are made on the premises of this pub. Don’t forget to tuck in to sweet and savoury flammekuechen (Alsacien cream-topped pizza), served until midnight.
St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ❮❮ 131
Literary Haunts Palette 1 La MAP L4 43 Rue de Seine, •
75006 • Open 8am–2am daily This café has been patronized by the likes of Henry Miller, Apollinaire and Jacques Prévert.
Deux Magots 2 Les MAP K4 6 Pl St-Germain-des•
Prés, 75006 • Open 7:30am–1am daily This was home to the literary and artistic élite of Paris. It was a haunt of Surrealists such as François Mauriac and Existentialists Sartre and de Beauvoir (see p68).
de Flore 3 Café MAP K4 172 Blvd St-Germain, •
75006 • Open 7am–2am daily Guillaume Apollinaire founded his literary magazine, Les Soirées de Paris, here in 1913 (see p68).
Procope 4 Le MAP L4 13 Rue de l’ Ancienne •
Comédie, 75006 • Open 11:45am– midnight Sun–Wed, 11:45am–1am Thu–Sat The oldest café in Paris, this was a meeting place for writers such as Voltaire, Balzac and Zola.
Le Sélect
5 MAP E6
• 99 Blvd du Montparnasse, 75006 • Open 7am–2am daily (to 3am Fri & Sat) F. Scott Fitzgerald and Truman Capote are among many American writers who have drunk in this café.
Hotel Pont Royal
6 MAP J3
• 5–7 Rue de Montalembert, 75007 • Open 11am– midnight daily Henry Miller drank here at the time of writing his Tropic of Capricorn and Tropic of Cancer.
7
Shakespeare and Company
This renowned bookshop was once described by novelist Henry Miller as a “wonderland of books” (see p128).
Beautiful Brasserie Lipp
Lipp 8 Brasserie MAP L4 151 Blvd St-Germain, •
75006 • Open 9am–1am daily Ernest Hemingway pays homage to this café in A Moveable Feast, and André Gide was also a customer. It sponsors an annual literary prize.
Coupole 9 La MAP E6 102 Blvd du •
Montparnasse, 75014 • Open 8:30am– midnight (to 11pm Sun & Mon) This former coal depot became a lavish Art Deco brasserie frequented by Françoise Sagan.
Petit St-Benoît 0 Le MAP K3 4 Rue St-Benoît, •
75006 • Open noon–2:30pm, 6:30– 10:30pm Tue–Sat Albert Camus, Simone de Beauvoir and James Joyce once took their daily coffee here. See map on pp124–5
132 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Picnic Providers Marché Raspail 6 Rue de Buci Market MAP J4 Blvd Raspail, 75006 1 MAP L4 This food market is held in the •
Head for the stalls and shops of this chic daily market to find the very best regional produce, wine and patisserie (see p71).
Poilâne
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8 Rue du Cherche-
Midi, 75006 The best bread in France, made from the recipe of the late king of breadmakers, Lionel Poilâne (see p129).
morning on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday (when it is all organic). Superb produce but pricey.
7 Bon MAP N5
• 159 Rue St-Jacques, 75005 • Closed Mon Wonderful patisserie and chocolatier, with a good line in small fruit tarts, and chocolates in the shape of the Eiffel Tower.
Market Grande Epicerie 3 Maubert 8 La de Paris MAP N5 Pl Maubert, 75006 •
A small market specializing in organic produce every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday morning. A good place to pick up olives, cheese, tomatoes and fruit.
Mulot 4 Gérard MAP L4 76 Rue de Seine, •
75006 Tarts, sandwiches and good breads from this up-market patisserie and deli make for a chic picnic.
5 Naturalia MAP N6 36 Rue Monge, •
75005 • Closed Sun For a fully organic picnic, look no further than this supermarket: breads, wines, cheeses, hams, fruits, desserts and much more. Interior of Kayser
MAP D5 • Le Bon Marché, 38 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Hunt for treasures such as Breton seaweed butter and coucou de Rennes at the food hall in Le Bon Marché (see p71).
Pirée 9 Le MAP N5 47 Blvd St-Germain, •
75005 Delicious, freshly prepared Greek and Armenian specialities, such as stuffed vegetables and honey-soaked cakes, are sold here.
0 Kayser MAP P6 14 Rue Monge, 75005 •
If you don’t want to make up your own picnic then try a ready-made sandwich from this bakery. Mouthwatering combinations include goat’s cheese with pear.
St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters ❮❮ 133
Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
Dupin 1 L’Épi MAP J5 11 Rue Dupin, 75006 •
01 42 22 64 56 • Closed Sat, Sun, Mon L, Aug • €€–€€€ Dishes such as scallop risotto or mussels and sweet potato are sublime – reserve a table in advance. •
Bastide Odéon 2 La MAP L5 7 Rue Corneille, •
75006 • 01 43 26 03 65 • No disabled access • €€ A taste of Provence in an elegant setting. Dishes include bouillabaisse, seared tuna and fried squid.
La Tour d’Argent
3 Clover MAP E4
Tour d’Argent 7 La MAP P5 15 Quai de la
5 Rue Perronnet, 75007 • 01 75 50 00 05 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€ Inventive cuisine by chef JeanFrançois Piège served in a minimalist bistro with an open kitchen. •
charcuterie, cheese and duck rillettes to share. The gorgeously creamy burrata is a must-try.
•
Tournelle, 75005 • 01 43 54 23 31 • Closed Sun, Mon, Aug • €€€ This historic restaurant with fine views of Notre-Dame serves duckling as its speciality.
Comptoir du Relais 4 Le MAP L5 9 Carrefour de
Pré Verre 8 Le MAP F5 8 Rue Thénard,
l’Odéon, 75006 • 01 44 27 07 97 • € Yves Camdeborde’s much-praised restaurant serves excellent bistro lunches and prix-fixe dinners.
75005 • 01 43 54 59 47 • Closed Sun, Mon, Aug, 25 Dec–1 Jan • €€ Excellent modern French cooking and a good wine list.
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Papilles 5 Lapérouse 9 Les MAP M4 51 Quai des Grands MAP F6 30 Rue Gay •
Augustins, 75006 • 01 43 26 68 04 • Closed Sun, Aug • €€€ Classic French cuisine is served in a setting that has remained unchanged since 1766.
Crèmerie 6 La MAP L5 9 Rue des Quatre •
Vents, 75006 • 01 43 54 99 30 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€ Beyond the charming façade of this intimate wine bar and informal bistro, you’ll find delectable small plates of
•
Lussac, 75005 • 01 43 25 20 79 • Closed Sun, Mon, Aug, 25 Dec–1 Jan • No disabled access • €€ Choose your wine straight off the shelves to accompany the greatvalue Market or Bistro menus.
Moulin à Vent 0 Au MAP P6 20 Rue des Fossés •
St-Bernard, 75005 • 01 43 54 99 37 • Closed Sat L, Sun, Aug • €€€ One of the best bistros in Paris. Have the frogs’ legs sauteed in garlic. See map on p124–5
134 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Jardin des Plantes Quarter This is traditionally one of the most peaceful areas of Paris. The medicinal herb gardens that give the quarter its name were established here in 1626. Near the gardens is the Arènes de Lutèce, a well-preserved Roman amphitheatre. Rue Mouffetard, winding down the hill from the bustling place de la Contrescarpe, dates from medieval times and has one of the best markets in the city. The area is also home to a sizable Muslim community, focused on the Paris Mosque and the Institut du Monde Arabe cultural centre. AREA MAP OF JARDIN DES PLANTES QUARTER E O IS
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Jardin des Plantes Quarter ❮❮ 135 des Plantes 1 Jardin MAP G6 57 Rue Cuvier, 75005 •
01 40 79 56 01 • Open 8am–5:30pm daily, 7:30am–8pm summer The 17th-century royal medicinal herb garden was planted by Jean Hérouard and Guy de la Brosse, physicians to Louis XIII. Opened in 1640, it flourished under the curatorship of Comte de Buffon. It contains some 6,500 species, and 10,000 plants. There’s also a Cedar of Lebanon that was planted in 1734, a hillside maze, and Alpine gardens (see p138). •
National 2 Muséum d’Histoire Naturelle MAP G6 • 57 Rue Cuvier, 75005 Pavilions: open 10am–5pm Wed– Mon; Evolution Gallery: open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon • Closed 1 May • Admission charge • www.mnhn.fr Pavilions in the Jardin des Plantes house varied exhibits on natural history. The Grande Galerie de l’Evolution (see p60) is a magnificent collection of stuffed African mammals, a massive whale skeleton and an endangered species exhibit (see p50). •
3 Ménagerie MAP G6 Jardin des Plantes, •
75005 • Open 9am–5pm daily (to 6pm summer) • Admission charge • www. grandegaleriedelevolution.fr The country’s oldest public zoo was founded during the Revolution to
Grande Galerie de l’Evolution, Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle
Flowers in the Jardin des Plantes
house the surviving animals from the royal menagerie at Versailles. Other animals were donated from circuses around the world. However, during the Siege of Paris in 1870–71 (see p43), most of the unfortunate creatures were eaten by hungry citizens. A favourite with children (see p60), the zoo has since been restocked.
du Monde Arabe 4 Institut MAP G5 1 Rue des Fossés •
St- Bernard, Pl Mohammed V, 75005 • 01 40 51 38 38 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Thu (until 9:30pm Fri, 7pm Sat & Sun) • Admission charge • www.imarabe.org This institute was founded in 1980 to promote cultural relations between France and the Arab world. The stunning building (1987) designed by architect Jean Nouvel (see p120) features a southern wall of 240 ornate photo-sensitive metal screens that open and close like camera apertures to regulate light entering the building. The design is based on the traditional latticed wooden screens of Islamic architecture. Inside is a museum featuring Islamic artworks, from 9th-century ceramics to contemporary art, as well as a tea salon and restaurant.
136 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area de Paris 5 Mosquée MAP G6 2 Bis Pl du Puits de •
l’Ermité, 75005 • Tours: 9am–noon, 2–6pm Sat–Thu (call 01 45 35 97 33); closed Islamic hols • Admission charge Built in 1922–6, the mosque complex is the spiritual centre for Parisian Muslims (see p49). The beautiful Hispano-Moorish decoration, particularly the grand patio, was inspired by the Alhambra in Spain. The minaret soars nearly 33 m (100 ft). The complex has an Islamic school, tearoom and Turkish baths, open to men and women on separate days.
FRENCH NORTH AFRICA France has long had close connections with North Africa, though not always harmonious. Its annexation of Algeria in 1834 led to the long and bloody Algerian War of Liberation (1954–62). Relations with Tunisia, which it governed from 1883 to 1956, and Morocco, also granted independence in 1956, were better. Many North Africans now live in Paris.
has lots of character, with its 17th-century mansard roofs, oldfashioned painted shop signs and affordable restaurants. In the market you can buy everything from Auvergne sausage to horsemeat and perfectly ripened cheeses.
de Lutèce 7 Arènes MAP G6 47 Rue Monge, •
Tearoom in the Mosquée de Paris
Mouffetard 6 Rue MAP F6
Although Rue Mouffetard is most famous today for its lively street market held every Tuesday to Sunday (see p71), it has an equally colourful past. In Roman times this was the main road from Paris to Rome. Some say its name comes from the French word mouffette (skunk), as a reference to the odorous River Bièvre (now covered over) where waste was dumped by tanners and weavers from the nearby Gobelins tapestry factory. Though no longer poor nor bohemian, the neighbourhood still
75005 • Open 9am–8:30pm daily (summer); 8am–6pm daily (winter) The remains of the 2nd-century Roman amphitheatre from the settlement of Lutetia (see p42) lay buried for centuries and were only discovered in 1869 during construction of Rue Monge. The novelist Victor Hugo, concerned with the preservation of his city’s historic buildings, including Notre-Dame (see p23), led the campaign for its restoration. The original arena would have had 35 tiers and could seat 15,000 spectators for theatrical performances and gladiator fights.
de la 8 Place Contrescarpe MAP F5 This bustling square has a village community feel, with busy cafés and restaurants and groups of students from the nearby Lycée Henri-IV hanging out here after dark. In medieval times, it lay outside the city walls, a remnant of which still stands on Rue Clovis. Notice the memorial plaque above the butcher’s at No. 1, which marks the site of the old Pine Cone Club, a café where François Rabelais and other writers gathered in the 16th century.
❮❮ 137 A DAY IN THE GARDENS Institut du Monde Arabe Le Buisson Ardent Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle Jardin des Plantes
Arènes de Lutèce place de la Contrescarpe Mosquée de Paris rue Mouffetard
Grande Galérie de l'Evolution
St-Médard
Façade of St-Médard church
MORNING
9 St-Médard MAP G6 141 Rue Mouffetard,
Start the day by browsing the stalls at the fabulous market on Rue Mouffetard, which gets going by about 8am. Working upwards from the bottom of the street and the church of St-Médard, you’ll find plenty here to make up a delicious breakfast, whether from the many market stalls or from the grocers and cafés that dot the street. Don’t forget to take your eyes off the tempting produce every now and then to see the splendid old buildings on this medieval street.
•
75005 • Open 8am–12:30pm, 2:30– 7:30pm Tue–Sat; 8:30am–12:30pm, 4–8:30pm Sun The church at the bottom of Rue Mouffetard dates back to the 9th century, when it was a parish church dedicated to St Médard, counsellor to the Merovingian kings. The present church, completed in 1655, is a mixture of Flamboyant Gothic and Renaissance styles. Among the fine paintings inside is the 17th-century St Joseph Walking with the Christ Child by Francisco de Zurbarán. The churchyard became notorious as it was the scene of hysterical fits in the 18th century, when a cult of convulsionnaires sought miracle cures at the grave of a Jansenist deacon.
0 Manufacture des Gobelins 42 Ave des Gobelins, 75013 • Metro Gobelins • Open for temporary exhibitions only 11am–6pm Tue– Sun • Tickets must be bought in advance at branches of FNAC • www.fnac.com This internationally renowned tapestry factory was originally a dyeing workshop, founded by the Gobelin brothers in the mid-15th century. In 1662, Louis XIV’s minister Colbert set up a royal factory here and gathered the greatest craftsmen of the day to make furnishings for the palace at Versailles (see p155). You can see the traditional weaving process on a guided tour.
Follow Rue Mouffetard up to the cheery Place de la Contrescarpe, then head to the Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle (see p135) and the excellent Grande Galérie de l’Evolution (see p60). Stroll through the Jardin des Plantes (see p135) and take a break on one of the many benches to admire the plantings. Exit through the gate on Rue Cuvier, near Rue Linné, and make a detour to the Arènes de Lutèce on your way to Le Buisson Ardent (see p139) for a simple, authentic bistro lunch. AFTERNOON
Spend part of the afternoon at the Institut du Monde Arabe (see p135), exploring its beautiful Islamic artworks, before walking down to admire the Moorish architecture of the Mosquée de Paris. Finish the day with a mint tea and a selection of maamoul and baklava at the Café-Restaurant de la Mosquée (Pl du Puits de l’Ermité • 01 43 31 14 32).
See map on p134
138 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Jardin des Plantes Sights Tree Manège 1 Dinosaur 7 Dodo One of the trees in the The strange and exotic animals Botanical Gardens is a Ginkgo biloba, which was planted in 1795, but the species is known to have existed in exactly the same form in the days of the dinosaurs, 125 million years ago.
2
Cedar of Lebanon
This magnificent tree was planted in 1734, and came from London’s Botanic Gardens in Kew, although a story grew up that its seed was brought here all the way from Syria in the hat Cedar of Lebanon of a scientist.
Garden 3 Rose Having only been planted
in 1990 and so relatively modern compared to the other gardens, the beautiful roseraie has some 170 species of roses and 180 rose bushes on display. Spectacular when in full bloom in spring and summer.
Gardens 4 Rock One of the stars of the Botan ical Gardens, with more than 3,000 plants from the world’s diverse Alpine regions. There are samples from Corsica to the Caucasus, Morocco and the Himalayas.
on this magical merrygoround (see p61) include a dodo, a triceratops, a horned turtle and even a sivatherium, which was like a giraffe with antlers.
Crocodile 8 Nile The crocodile in the Reptile
House now has a better home than he once did. This creature was found in 1998, when he was six months old, in the bathtub of a Paris hotel room, left behind as an unwanted pet.
Animal House 9 Young One of the zoo’s most popular
features for children is this house where young creatures, which for one reason or another cannot be looked after by their natural parents, are raised. Once they have reached adulthood they are returned to their natural habitat.
0 Greenhouses Otherwise known as Les
Grandes Serres, these 19thcentury greenhouses were at one time the largest in the world. Today, they house a rainforest environment, a prickly Mexican cactus garden and a tropical winter garden which is kept at a constant 22°C (74°F) and 80 per cent humidity.
Japonica 5 Sophora Sent to Paris under the label
“unknown seeds from China” by a Jesuit naturalist living in the Orient, this tree, often called a Pagoda Tree, was planted in 1747, first flowered in 1777, and still flowers today.
Garden 6 Iris An unusual feature is this
designated garden which brings together more than 400 different varieties of iris.
19th-century greenhouse
Jardin des Plantes Quarter ❮❮ 139
Places to Eat Truffière 5 La MAP F6 4 Rue Blainville, •
75005 • 01 46 33 29 82 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ A 17th-century building, a wood fire and welcoming staff all make for a great little one-Michelin-starred bistro. Naturally, the menu features truffles.
6 L’Agrume MAP G6 15 Rue des Fossés •
La Truffière’s vaulted interior
Petit Pascal 1 Le 33 Rue Pascal, 75013
• Metro Gobelins • 01 45 35 33 87 • Closed Sat, Sun, Aug • €€ This family-run, provincial-style bistro, popular with locals at dinner, has a menu of regional dishes that changes daily.
Léna et Mimile 2 Chez 32 Rue Tournefort, 75005 Metro Place Monge • 01 47 07 72 47 • Closed Sun, Nov–Mar • €€ Those in the know avoid the touristy restaurants around Rue Mouffetard to savour a meal at this ambitious bistro with a peaceful terrace. •
Petit Marguery 3 Au MAP F6 9 Blvd de Port-Royal, •
75013 • 01 43 31 58 59 • €€ One for meat lovers, with plenty of steak, veal and game on the menu. Boisterous atmosphere.
Buisson Ardent 4 Le MAP G6 25 Rue Jussieu, •
75005 • 01 43 54 93 02 • Closed Sun D (brunch only Sun) • €€ This creative bistro is a romantic night-time destination serving classic French dishes with a twist. Set menus offer good value. PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
St-Marcel, 75005 • 01 43 31 86 48 • No disabled access • Closed Sun– Tue • €€€ This restaurant is popular for its affordable five-course fixed-price menu of creative modern dishes.
Ciel 7 Patisserie MAP N5 3 Rue Monge, 75005 •
01 43 29 40 78 • € This airy Japanese tea house is dedicated to angel cake in a range of imaginative flavours – until nightfall, when it serves Japanese whisky and small savoury plates. •
Coco de Mer 8 Au MAP G6 34 Blvd St-Marcel, •
75005 • 06 20 26 77 67 • Closed Sun, Mon L, Aug • €€ Spicy Seychelles cuisine, plus a “beach hut” terrace with soft sand. Vegetarians should book ahead.
9 L’Avant-Goût 26 Rue Bobillot, 75013 Metro Place d’Italie • 01 53 80 24 00 Closed Sun, Mon • €–€€ Small and noisy with tables crammed together. Try the pot au feu or apple flan, if available, though the menu changes daily. • •
0 L’Ourcine 92 Rue Broca, 75013
• Metro Gobelins • 01 47 07 13 65 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€ Locals and visitors like this cozy Basque and Béarnais bistro for its no-fuss, reliably good cooking and affordable southwestern wines. Set menus offer good-value options.
See map on p134
140 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Chaillot Quarter Chaillot was a separate village until the 19th century, when it was swallowed up by the growing city and bestowed with wide avenues and grand mansions, many of which now house embassies. The quarter’s centrepiece is the glorious Palais de Chaillot, its white-stone wings embracing the Trocadéro Gardens and its terrace facing the Eiffel Tower, across the Seine. Behind the palace Fish sculpture, is place du Trocadéro, laid out in 1858 Cinéaqua and ringed with smart cafés. AREA MAP OF CHAILLOT QUARTER
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Chaillot Quarter ❮❮ 141 stonefish and some spectacular sharks and rays. Built into a former quarry, the site has been designed to blend in with the Chaillot hillside. There is also a futuristic cinema complex showing nature films, and a Japanese restaurant.
de la Marine 3 Musée MAP B4 Palais de Chaillot, •
View from Palais de Chaillot
de Chaillot 1 Palais MAP B4 17 Pl du Trocadéro, •
75016 The fall of his empire scuppered Napoleon’s plans for an opulent palace for his son on Chaillot hill, but the site was later used for the Trocadéro palace, built for the Universal Exhibition of 1878. It was replaced by the present NeoClassical building with its huge colonnaded wings for the prewar exhibition of 1937. The two pavilions house three museums, including the Musée de la Marine. The broad terrace is the domain of souvenir sellers and skateboarders by day, while at night it is crowded with tourists admiring the splendid view of the Eiffel Tower across the Seine. Two bronzes, Apollo by Henri Bouchard and Hercules by Pommier, stand at the front of the terrace. Beneath the terrace is the 1,200seat Théâtre National de Chaillot.
17 Pl du Trocadéro, 75016 • Open 11am–6pm Wed–Mon • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Admission charge • www.musee-marine.fr Three hundred years of French naval history is the focus of this museum, whether in war, trade and commerce, or industries such as fishing. The displays range from naval art to science to maritime adventure and popular legends and traditions. Among the highlights is an outstanding collection of model ships, from the feluccas of ancient Egypt to medieval galleys and nuclear submarines. You can also watch craftsmen at work on the models. Napoleon’s royal barge is another highlight. The museum is due to close for renovation from 2017 onwards.
de l’Architecture 4 Cité et du Patrimoine MAP B4 • Palais de Chaillot, 75116 Open 11am–7pm Wed–Mon (until 9pm Thu) • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • 01 58 51 52 00 • Admission charge • www.citechaillot.fr Occupying the east wing of the Palais Chaillot, this museum is a veritable ode to French architectural heritage, •
2 Cinéaqua MAP B4 5 Ave Albert de Mun, •
75016 • Open 10am–7pm daily • Closed 14 Jul • Admission charge • www.cineaqua.com Originally constructed in 1878 for the Universal Exhibition, this fascinating aquarium is home to over 10,000 species, including seahorses,
Cité de l’Architecture
142 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area GENERAL FOCH General Ferdinand Foch (1851–1929), whose statue stands in the centre of place du Trocadéro, was commanderin-chief of the Allied armies by the end of World War I. His masterful command ultimately led to victory over Germany in 1918, whereupon he was made a Marshal of France and elected to the French Academy. He is interred at the Hôtel des Invalides (see pp38–9).
showcasing its development through the ages as well as contemporary architecture. The Galerie des Moulages (Medieval to Renaissance) contains moulded portions of churches and great French cathedrals includ ing Chartres. The Galerie Moderne et Contemporain includes a recon struction of an apartment designed by Le Corbusier, and architectural designs from 1990 onwards. The gallery in the Pavillon de Tête has a stunning collection of murals copied from medieval frescoes.
d’Art Moderne de 5 Musée la Ville de Paris MAP B4 • 11 Ave du Président Wilson, 75116 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (until 10pm Thu during temporary exhibitions) • Closed public hols • Admission charge for temporary exhibitions • www.mam.paris.fr This modern art museum is housed in the east wing of the Palais de Tokyo, built for the 1937 World’s Fair. Its permanent collection includes such masters as Chagall, Picasso, Modigliani and Léger; further high lights include Raoul Dufy’s enormous mural The Spirit of Electricity (1937) and Picabia’s Lovers (After the Rain) (1925). The museum also showcases the work of upandcoming artists in the west wing.
Eiffel Tower as their eternal view (see p144). It is worth a visit just to admire the striking sculptures on the tombs.
du Trocadéro 7 Jardins MAP B4
Designed in 1937, the tiered Trocadéro Gardens descend gently down Chaillot hill from the palace to the Seine and the Pont d’Iéna. The centrepiece of this 10ha (25acre) park is the long rectangular pool lined with stone and bronze statues, including Woman by Georges Braque (1882–1963). Its illuminated fountains are spectacular at night. With flowering trees, walkways and bridges over small streams, the gardens are a romantic place for a stroll (see p57).
du Vin 8 Musée MAP A4 5 Square Charles •
Dickens, Rue des Eaux, 75016 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat • Admission charge • www.museeduvinparis.com The vaulted 14thcentury cellars where the monks of Passy once made wine are an atmospheric setting for this wine museum. Waxwork figures recreate the history of the winemaking process,
de Passy 6 Cimetière MAP A4 Pl du Trocadéro •
(entrance rue du Commandant Schloessing), 75016 This small cemetery covers only 1 ha (2.5 acres), yet many famous people have been laid to rest here with the
Aerial view, Jardins du Trocadéro
Chaillot Quarter ❮❮ 143 A DAY IN CHAILLOT Le Jamin Café Carette Café du Trocadéro Cimetière de Passy
Musée National des Arts Asiatiques– Guimet
Cité de l’Architecture Palais de Chaillot Musée de la Marine
Eiffel Tower, Le Jules Verne
Exhibits in the Musée du Vin
MORNING
and there are displays of wine paraphernalia. The museum also has tasting sessions, wine for sale and an excellent restaurant.
It would be hard to imagine a better start to a day in Paris than going to the Palais de Chaillot (see p141) and seeing its perfect view of the Eiffel Tower (see pp24–5) across the Seine. Then tour the fascinating collections of the Cité de l’Architecture (see pp141–2) and, if marine history is your thing, the Musée de la Marine (see p141), both here.
de Balzac 9 Maison MAP A4 47 Rue Raynouard, •
75016 • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Closed public hols • Admission charge for temporary exhibitions • http://parismusees.paris.fr The writer Honoré de Balzac (see p44) rented an apartment here from 1840 to 1844, assuming a false name to avoid his many creditors. He worked on several of his famous novels here, including La cousine Bette and La comédie humaine. The house is now a museum displaying first editions and manuscripts, personal mementoes and letters, and paintings and drawings of his friends and family. It also houses temporary exhibitions.
National des 0 Musée Arts Asiatiques-Guimet MAP B3 • 6 Pl d’Iéna, 75116 Open 10am–6pm Wed–Mon • Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec • Admission charge • www.guimet.fr One of the world’s foremost museums of Asiatic and Oriental art, founded in 1889. The Khmer Buddhist temple sculptures from Angkor Wat are the highlight of a fine collection of Cambodian art. Guimet’s collection tracing Chinese and Japanese religion from the 4th to 19th centuries is also on display, as are artifacts from India, Indonesia and Vietnam. •
Outside the palace, have lunch at the Café du Trocadéro (8 Pl du Trocadéro • 01 44 05 37 00) and watch the comings and goings in the square. Or, for something a little fancier, call ahead and make reservations at the excellent Le Jamin (see p145). AFTERNOON
Revived, walk up to the place d’Iéna, to the Musée National des Arts Asiatiques–Guimet for its spectacular collection of Eastern artifacts and artworks. On the first floor, spend some time with the remarkable Riboud collection of textiles from India, Japan, China and Indonesia, which includes a number of rare Indian textiles not usually on display elsewhere because of their fragility. By now you will surely be in need of a rest, so return to the Place du Trocadéro for tea and éclairs at Café Carette at No. 4 (01 47 27 98 85). End the day in the peaceful Cimetière de Passy before an unforgettable dinner overlooking the lights of the city at the stylish Le Jules Verne (see p123). Be sure to book a table in advance.
See map on p140
144 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Graves in Cimetière de Passy Manet Emanuel 1 Edouard 7 Comte de las Cases Born in Paris in 1832, Manet became the most notorious artist in the city when works such as Olympia and Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (see p16) were first exhibited. He died in Paris in 1883.
Claude Debussy
2 The French composer
Born in 1766, this historian and friend of Napoleon shared the emperor’s exile on the island of St Helena and recorded his memoirs. The Comte himself died in Paris in 1842.
Edouard Manet
(1862–1918) achieved fame through works such as Prélude à l’Après-midi d’un Faune and La Mer, and was regarded as the musical equivalent of the Impressionist painters.
Morisot 3 Berthe The French Impressionist
artist was born in Paris in 1841, posed for Edouard Manet and later married his lawyer brother Eugène. She never achieved the fame of the male Impressionists and died in Paris in 1895.
4 Fernandel The lugubrious French film
actor known as Fernandel was born Fernand Contandin in Marseille in 1903.He made more than 100 films in a career that lasted from 1930 until his death in Paris in 1971.
Fauré 8 Gabriel The French composer,
probably best known today for his Requiem, was a great influence on the music of his time. He died in Paris in 1924, at the age of 79.
Mirbeau 9 Octave The satirical French novelist
and playwright was also an art critic and an outspoken journalist. Born in 1848, he died in Cheverchemont in 1917 and his body was brought to Passy for burial.
Cierplikowski 0 Antoine The grave of this fairly obscure artist of the 1920s attracts attention because of its immensely powerful sculpture of a man and woman joined together and seeming to soar from the grave to the heavens.
Bashkirtseff 5 Marie This Russian artist became
more renowned as a diarist after her death from tuberculosis in 1884. Despite living for only 24 years she produced 84 volumes of diaries and their posthumous publication created a sensation due to their intimate nature.
Farman 6 Henri The French aviator was born
in Paris in 1874 and died here in 1958. He was the first man to make a circular 1-km (0.5-mile) flight, and the first to fly cross-country in Europe. His gravestone shows him at the controls of a primitive plane.
Grave of Antoine Cierplikowski
Chaillot Quarter ❮❮ 145
Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
1 Akrame MAP B2 19 Rue Lauriston, •
75016 • 01 40 67 11 16 • Closed Sat, Sun • €€€ Chef Akrame Benallal has been awarded two Michelin stars for his brilliant modern cooking at this buzzy, relaxed restaurant. Dinner time tasting menus are a splurge; set lunches offer better value.
Le Jamin
2 MAP A3
• 32 Rue de Longchamp, 75116 • 01 45 53 00 07 • Closed Sat L, Sun, Aug • No disabled access • €€€ Former Guy Savoy disciple Alain Pras presides over this elegant, formal restaurant, offering an inventive approach to French classics, and good vegetarian options.
l’Ecureuil 3 Mokus MAP B3 116 Ave Kléber, •
75016 • 01 42 56 23 56 • €–€€ This trendy pizzeriacumburger bar is set in an industrialinspired dining room, complete with neon lights and brick walls. Great place for comfort food. The menu also features several vegetarian options.
des Poissons 6 Comme MAP A4 24 Rue de la Tour, •
75016 • 01 45 20 70 37 • Closed Mon, Sun L • € This tiny Japanese sushi restaurant serves good food at reasonable prices. Book ahead.
Petit Rétro 7 Le MAP B3 5 Rue Mesnil, 75016 •
01 44 05 06 05 • Closed Sun • No disabled access • €€ Cozy atmosphere and affordable prices at this 1900s bistro. The Blanquette de Veau is delicious. •
Bistrot des Vignes 8 Le MAP B4 1 Rue Jean Bologne, •
75016 • 01 45 27 76 64 • No disabled access • €€ Unpretentious little bistro of the type everyone hopes to find in Paris.
Table Lauriston 9 La MAP A3 129 Rue Lauriston, •
75116 • 01 47 27 00 07 • Closed Sun, Sat L, Aug, 1 week over Christmas • €€€ Chef Serge Barbey’s La Table Lauriston is a hit with local gourmets who tuck into his gargantuan steak and rumdoused baba in the jewel toned dining room.
4 L’Astrance MAP B4 4 Rue Beethoven, •
75116 • 01 40 50 84 40 • Closed Sat– Mon • No disabled access • €€€ Pascal Barbot serves fusion food at its best. Book at least a month in advance to secure a table.
Prunier 5 Maison MAP B3 16 Ave Victor Hugo, •
75016 • 01 44 17 35 85 • Closed Sat L, Sun • No disabled access • €€€ Fish dishes reign at this restaurant, with its dazzling Art Deco interior.
Monsieur Bleu terrace
Bleu 0 Monsieur MAP B4 20 Ave de New York, •
75116 • 01 47 20 90 47 • €€€ A glamorous modern brasserie within the Palais de Tokyo, near the Musée d’Art Moderne (see p142). Nibbles from the bar menu are perfect for enjoying on the terrace facing the Eiffel Tower. See map on p140
146 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Montmartre and Pigalle In the 19th and early 20th centuries, painters and poets put the “art” in Montmartre, and it will forever be associated with their bohemian lifestyle. Throngs of tourists climb the hill for the view from Sacré-Coeur, but you can still discover villagelike charms in the winding back streets. Pigalle, once home to dance halls and cabarets, is now better known for its adult shows and sex shops. Church of St-Pierre de Montmartre
AREA MAP OF MONTMARTRE AND PIGALLE
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Montmartre and Pigalle ❮❮ 147
1 Sacré-Coeur See pp26–7. Montmartre 2 Espace Salvador Dalí MAP F1 • 11 Rue Poulbot, 75018 Open 10am–6pm daily (Jul–Aug to 8pm) • Admission charge • www. daliparis.com The Dalí works here may not be the artist’s most famous or best, but this museum is still a must for any fan of the Spanish Surrealist (see p150). More than 300 of his drawings and sculptures are on display amid hightech lighting and sound effects, including Dalí’s voice, which creates a “surreal” atmosphere. There are also bronzes of his memorable “fluid” clocks. •
Portrait artist in the Place du Terte
present, with an emphasis on the bohemian lifestyle of the belle époque. There is even a recreated 19th-century bistro, as well as lovely gardens where Renoir painted.
de Montmartre du Tertre 3 Musée 4 Place 12 Rue Cortot, 75018 Open MAP F1 •
10am–6pm daily (until 7pm Jul & Aug) • Admission charge • www. museedemontmartre.fr The museum is set in Montmartre’s finest town house, known as Le Manoir de Rose de Rosimond after the 17th-century actor who once owned it. From 1875 it provided living quarters and studios for numerous artists. Using drawings, photographs and all sorts of memorabilia, the museum presents the history of the Montmartre area, from its 12th-century convent days to the
At 130 m (430 ft), Montmartre’s old village square, whose name means “hillock”, is the highest point in the city. Any picturesque charm it might once have had is now sadly hidden under the tourist-trap veneer of overpriced restaurants and portrait artists hawking their services, although the fairy lights at night are still atmospheric. No. 21 houses the Old Montmartre information office, with details about the area. Nearby is the church of St-Pierre de Montmartre, all that remains of the Benedictine abbey which stood here from 1133 until the Revolution.
de 5 Cimetière Montmartre MAP E1 20 Ave Rachel, 75018 The main graveyard for the district lies beneath a busy road in an old gypsum quarry, though it’s more restful than first appears when you actually get below street level. The illustrious tombs, many with ornately sculpted monuments, packed tightly into this intimate space, reflect the artistic bent of the residents, who include composers Berlioz and Offenbach, writers Stendhal and Dumas, Russian dancer Nijinsky and the film director François Truffaut. •
Cimetière de Montmartre
148 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Cancan dancers on stage at the Moulin Rouge
Rouge 6 Moulin MAP E1 82 Blvd de Clichy,
Lapin Agile 8 Au MAP F1 22 Rue des Saules,
75018 • Shows daily at 9pm & 11pm (dinner at 7pm) • www.moulinrouge.fr The Moulin Rouge (“red windmill”) is the most famous of the belle époque dance halls that once scandalized respectable citizens and attracted Montmartre’s artists and other bohemian characters. Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec immortalized the era with his sketches and posters of dancers such as Jane Avril, some of which now grace the Musée d’Orsay (see p17). Cabaret is still performed here (see p64).
75018 • Open 9pm–1am Tue–Sun • www.au-lapin-agile.com This belle époque restaurant and cabaret was a popular hang-out for Picasso and Renoir, and poets Apollinaire and Paul Verlaine. It took its name from a humorous painting by André Gill of a rabbit (lapin) leaping out of a cooking pot, called the Lapin à Gill. In time it became known by its current name (“nimble rabbit”) (see p152).
•
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de l’Erotisme 7 Musée MAP E1 72 Blvd de Clichy, •
75018 • Open 10am–2am daily • Admission charge • www.museeerotisme.com Exhibiting more than 2,000 items from all around the world, this museum presents all forms of erotic art from painting, sculpture, photographs and drawings to objects whose sole purpose seems to be titillation. It is all tastefully presented, however, which reflects the sincere interest of the three collectors who founded the museum in 1997 in order to explore the cultural aspects of eroticism. The displays range from the spiritual objects of primitive cultures to whimsical artworks.
Lapin à Gill by André Gill
Montmartre and Pigalle ❮❮ 149 des Abbesses 9 Place MAP E1
This pretty square lies at the base of the Butte Montmartre, between Pigalle and the place du Tertre. Visit it via the metro station of the same name to appreciate one of the few original Art Nouveau stations left in the city. Designed by the architect Hector Guimard in 1900, it features ornate green wrought-iron arches, amber lanterns and a ship shield, the symbol of Paris, on the roof. Along with Porte Dauphine, it is the only station entrance to retain its original glass roof. A mural painted by local artists winds around the spiral staircase at the entrance. But don’t walk to the platform, take the elevator – it’s the deepest station in Paris, with 285 steps. THE MONTMARTRE VINEYARDS It’s hard to imagine it today, but Montmartre was once a French wine region said to match the quality of Bordeaux and Burgundy. There were 20,000 ha (50,000 acres) of Parisian vineyards in the mid-18th century, but today just 1,500 bottles of wine are made annually from the remaining 2,000 vines in Montmartre (below), and are sold in aid of charity.
A DAY IN MONTMARTRE Cimetière St-Vincent La Maison Rose
Musée de Montmartre Clairon des Chasseurs SacréCoeur
Moulin de la Galette
Moulin Rouge
Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí
Place du Tertre
Musée de l’Erotisme La Fourmi
MORNING
As with all the city’s attractions, the sooner you get to SacréCoeur (see pp26–7) the more you will have it to yourself – it opens at 8am. Later in the morning, enjoy the bustle of Montmartre and watch tourists having their portraits painted by the area’s street artists in the Place du Tertre (see p147). There are plenty of places to choose for a coffee, but the one most of the artists frequent is the Clairon des Chasseurs (3 Pl du Tertre • 01 42 62 40 08). For art of a more surreal kind, visit the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí (see p147). Head down rue des Saules to continue the artistic theme with lunch at La Maison Rose (2 Rue de l’Abreuvoir • 01 42 57 66 75). Utrillo once painted this pretty pink restaurant. AFTERNOON
de la Galette 0 Moulin MAP E1 83 Rue Lepic, 75018 •
Montmartre once had more than 30 windmills, used for pressing grapes and grinding wheat; this is one of only two still standing. During the siege of Paris in 1814 its owner, Pierre-Charles Debray, was crucified on its sails by Russian soldiers. It became a dance hall in the 19th century and inspired paintings by Renoir and Van Gogh (see p150). It is now a restaurant. Rue Lepic is worth a visit for its shops and cafés.
The Musée de Montmartre (see p147) is close by, as are the Montmartre Vineyards, and also the little Cimetière St-Vincent where you will find Maurice Utrillo’s grave. Walk back up to Rue Lepic to see the Moulin de la Galette before heading towards the boulevard de Clichy. Here you will find the sleazier side of Pigalle, although the Musée de l’Erotisme offers a more tasteful interpretation. To the east is a great bar for an apéritif, La Fourmi (74 Rue des Martyrs • 01 42 64 70 35). Then finish off the day in style with a show at the world-famous Moulin Rouge cabaret. See map on p146
150 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Artists who Lived in Montmartre Manet 5 Edouard Manet (1832–83) frequented Montmartre’s artist haunts and scandalized the art world with his paintings of nudes, including the famous Olympia (see p16).
Utrillo 6 Maurice Utrillo (1883–1955) often
painted the Auberge de la BonneFranquette, giving an atmospheric depiction of old Montmartre. His mother was the artist Suzanne Valadon and they both lived at 12 Rue Cortot, now the Musée de Montmartre (see p147).
Pablo Picasso
Picasso 1 Pablo de ToulousePicasso (1881–1973) painted 7 Henri Lautrec Les Demoiselles d’Avignon in 1907 while living at the Bateau-Lavoir. It is regarded as the painting that inspired the Cubism movement, which he launched with fellow residents Georges Braque and Juan Gris.
Dalí 2 Salvador The Catalan painter
(1904–89) came to Paris in 1929 and held his first Surrealist exhibition that year. He kept a studio in Montmartre, and his work is now celebrated in the Espace Montmartre Salvador Dalí (see p147).
3 Vincent van Gogh
The Dutch genius (1853– 90) lived for a time on the third floor of 54 Rue Lepic. Many of his early paintings were inspired by the Moulin de la Galette windmill (see p149).
More than any other artist, ToulouseLautrec (1864–1901) is associated with Montmartre for his sketches and posters of dancers at the Moulin Rouge and other dance halls. For most people, they epitomize the era to this day (see p17).
Dufy 8 Raoul The painter Dufy (1877–
1953) lived at Villa Guelma on the Boulevard de Clichy from 1911 to 1953, when he was at the height of his career.
9 Amedeo Modigliani
The Italian painter and sculptor (1884–1920) arrived in Paris in 1906, when he was 22, and was greatly influenced by ToulouseLautrec and the other bohemian artists on the Toulouse-Lautrec Montmartre scene.
Renoir 4 Pierre-Auguste Renoir (1841–1919) is another artist who found inspiration in the Moulin de la Galette, when he lived at 12 Rue Cortot. For a time he laid tables at Au Lapin Agile (see p148).
Degas 0 Edgar Edgar Degas was born in
Paris in 1834 and lived in the city for the whole of his life, most of the time in Montmartre, painting many of its street scenes and characters. He died here in 1917 and is buried in Montmartre cemetery (see p147).
Montmartre and Pigalle ❮❮ 151
Places to Escape the Crowds l’Evangéliste de Poteau Market 1 St-Jean 8 Rue de Montmartre Metro Jules Joffrin MAP E1 • 21 Rue des Abbesses, 75018 • Open daily This 1904 church is a clash of styles, from Moorish to Art Nouveau.
Montmartre City Hall
2 1 Pl Jules Joffrin, 75018
Metro Jules Joffrin On display in this building are two Utrillo paintings. •
des Artistes 3 Hameau MAP E1 11 Ave Junot, 75018 •
This little hamlet of artists’ studios is private, but no one will mind if you take a quiet look round.
de la Vie 4 Musée Romantique MAP E1 • 16 Rue Chaptal, 75009 Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Admission charge for temporary exhibitions George Sand was a frequent visitor to this house, which is now devoted to the writer. •
Great food market that is a long way from the tourist crowds.
du Martyrium 9 Crypte MAP E1 11 Rue Yvonne Le •
Tac, 75018 • 01 42 23 48 94 • Open 3–6pm Fri, 1st Sat & Sun of the month A simple, peaceful 19th-century chapel, this is said to be on the spot where St Denis, the patron saint of Paris, was beheaded by the Romans in AD 250.
Gustave Moreau 0 Musée MAP E2 14 Rue de La •
Rochefoucauld, 75009 • Open 10am–12:45pm, 2–5:15pm Wed–Mon (all day Fri–Sun) • Admission charge • www.musee-moreau.fr The former home of Symbolist artist Moreau displays a large collection of his imaginative works.
Saint Pierre 5 Halle MAP F1 2 Rue Ronsard, •
75018 • 01 42 58 72 89 • Open 11am–6pm Mon–Fri (until 7pm Sat) noon–6pm Sun • Closed public hols • Admission charge A fascinating cultural centre that exhibits naive folk art and Art Brut.
Véron 6 Cité MAP E1 92 Blvd de •
Clichy, 75018 This cul-de-sac is home to the Académie des Arts Chorégraphiques, a prestigious dance school.
Suzanne 7 Square Buisson MAP E1 Named after a World War II Resistance fighter, this square is a romantic spot.
Musée Gustave Moreau See map on p146
152 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Cabarets and Clubs Bus Palladium 6 Le MAP E1 6 Rue Pierre •
Fontaine, 75009 • 01 45 26 80 35 • Closed Sun This 1960s club, which was graced by The Beatles, now hosts concerts with an alternative/rock vibe.
Michou 7 Cabaret MAP E1 80 Rue des Martyrs, •
Old photograph of Au Lapin Agile
Lapin Agile 1 Au Poets and artists not only
drank in this cabaret club, some – such as Renoir and Verlaine – also laid tables. Picasso even paid his bill with one of his Harlequin paintings (see p148).
75018 With outrageous drag artists and a legendary compère whose behaviour can never be predicted, this place is close to the original spirit of Montmartre cabaret.
Rouge 2 Moulin MAP E1 82 Blvd de Clichy, •
75018 As old as the Eiffel Tower (1889) and as much a part of the Parisian image, today’s troupe of 60 Doriss Girls are the modern versions of Jane Avril and La Goulue (see p148).
de Midi et Minuit 3 Autour MAP E1 11 Rue Lepic, 75018 •
Closed Sun, Mon, end Feb, Aug Tuck into delicious bistro food before heading into the small vaulted cellar for a jazz concert. •
Carmen 4 Le MAP E1 34 Rue Duperré, •
75009 • 01 45 26 50 00 This trendy hang-out offers excellent cocktails and hosts themed nights featuring live music.
Nouvelle Eve 5 La MAP E1 25 Rue Pierre •
Fontaine, 75009 One of the lesser-known cabaret venues. The intimate venue produces professional shows that feature colourful displays of the celebrated French cancan.
Cabaret Michou
Trois Baudets 8 Les MAP E1 64 Blvd de Clichy, •
75018 For French music, head to this 250seat theatre. There’s a great bar too.
Machine du Moulin 9 La Rouge MAP E1 90 Blvd de Clichy, 75018 This venue next to the Moulin Rouge hosts both club nights and concerts. •
Divan du Monde 0 Le MAP E1 75 Rue des Martyrs, •
75018 World music is played here, both live and DJs, with regular dance events and concerts too.
Montmartre and Pigalle ❮❮ 153
Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
Coq Rico
1 MAP E1
• 98 Rue Lepic, 75018 01 42 59 82 89 • €€€ Poultry is the star of the show at chef Antoine Westerman’s bistro. Try the rotisserie-style Bresse chicken with hand-cut fries. •
Miroir 2 Le MAP E1 94 Rue des Martyrs, •
75018 • 01 46 06 50 73 • No disabled access • €€ Chef Sébastien Guénard creates fine French fare using classical techniques and seasonal ingredients.
d’Eugène 3 Table 18 Rue Eugène Sue, 75018 01 42 55 61 64 • Closed Sun, Mon, Aug • €€€ This chic restaurant serves fantastic gastronomic tasting menus at very reasonable prices. •
Jean 4 Restaurant MAP E1 8 Rue St-Lazare, •
75009 • 01 48 78 62 73 • Closed Sun, Mon • €€€ This restaurant boasts creative, beautifully presented, contemporary cuisine and a Michelin star.
dishes and a mouthwatering chocolate mousse. Linger over a hearty brunch on the weekend.
“Roi des 7 Charlot Coquillages” MAP E1 • 81 Blvd de Clichy, 75009 01 53 20 48 00 • No disabled access • €€€ A sumptuous Art Deco brasserie, specializing in seafood. •
Vaisseau Vert 8 Le MAP E1 10 Rue de Parme, •
75009 • 01 49 70 03 55 • Closed Sat L, Sun, 3 weeks in Aug • € This bistro offers innovative French dishes and a great selection of wines.
Amour 9 Hotel MAP F2 8 Rue de Navarin, •
75009 • 01 48 78 31 80 • €€ The cozy restaurant in this hip hotel serves Anglo-inspired food.
de 0 Chamarré Montmartre MAP E1 • 52 Rue Lamarck, 75018 01 42 55 05 42 • No disabled access • €€–€€€ Creative Mauritanian-French fusion food is served on a terrace at this fine-dining restaurant. •
Pétrelle 5 Le MAP F1 34 Rue Pétrelle, •
75009 • 01 42 82 11 02 • Closed Sun, Mon, 1st week May, Aug • €€€ A restaurant with offbeat, eccentric decor, an intimate atmosphere and a menu using only local produce.
6 Buvette MAP E1 28 Rue Henry •
Monnier, 75009 • 01 44 63 41 71 • € Under a gorgeous tin ceiling, this comfortable New York-style bistro serves cocktails, classic French
Buvette, with its beautiful tin ceiling See map on p146
154 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Greater Paris Central Paris has more than enough on offer to keep any visitor occupied, but if time permits you should make at least one foray out of the centre, whether it be to the sumptuous Palace of Versailles, former home of the “Sun King” Louis XIV, or to the Magic Kingdom of Disneyland® Paris. The excellent metro system makes for easy day trips to the area’s two main parks, the Bois de Boulogne and the Bois de Vincennes, for a wide range of outdoor activities, from boating to horse riding or in-line skating, or just strolling amid pleasant greenery. In contrast to these bucolic pleasures is the cutting-edge modern architecture of La Défense. Visually stunning, it comprises Paris’s high-rise business district, with added attractions in its exhibition centres. Two large cemeteries outside the centre are The Grande Arche worth a visit for their ornate tombs. de la Défense
AREA MAP OF GREATER PARIS 3 3
Courbevoie Courbevoie
3 3 D99 1D99 1
D91 3D91 3
Garches Garches
VD 0 0 D91 D91
Issy-lesIssy-lesMoulineaux Moulineaux 9 9 D98 D98 06 D9
Chaville Chaville N118
Viroflay Viroflay
Malakoff Malakoff
Meudon Meudon N118
Versailles Versailles
Sèvres Sèvres
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VersaillesVersaillesChâteau Château
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Gare Gare Montparnasse Montparnasse
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St-Cloud St-Cloud
Invalides Invalides
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La CelleLa CelleSaint-Cloud Saint-Cloud
Chaillot Chaillot
Suresnes Suresnes
RueilRueilMalmaison Malmaison
Bougival Bougival
Gare Gare St-Lazare St-Lazare
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Nanterre Nanterre CroissyCroissysur-Seine sur-Seine
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Bagneux Bagneux
FontenayFontenayaux-Roses aux-Roses
Greater Paris ❮❮ 155
1 Versailles Versailles, 78000
• RER line C to Versailles-Rive Gauche • Château open Apr–Oct: 9am–6:30pm Tue–Sun; Nov– Mar: 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sun; gardens open 8am–8:30pm daily (to 6pm winter) • Closed public hols • Admission charge • www.chateauversailles.fr The top day trip from Paris has to be Versailles. This stunning chateau, begun by Louis XIV in 1664, is over whelming in its opulence and scale. Plan what you want to see and arrive early, as even a full day may not be long enough. If you’d like to spend a few days exploring, opt for the two day passport, which includes one musical fountain show (Apr–Oct). Buy the ticket online to avoid the queues.
Paris 2 Disneyland® Marne-la-Vallée RER line A to •
Marne-la-Vallée Chessy/Disneyland • See website for opening times and prices • www.disneylandparis.com Despite grumblings that the Paris branch of Disneyland® may have
Pantin Pantin
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Le PréLe PréSt-Gervais St-Gervais
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Bagnolet Bagnolet A3 A3
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Montreuil Montreuil
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Top 10 Sights see pp155–7 Villejuif Villejuif
Places to Eat see p161
35 km 35 km
Fountain at Versailles
lost some of its lustre since opening in 1992, the theme park still draws more people than the Louvre and the Eiffel Tower combined. In the shadow of the extravagant Chateau de la Belle au Bois Dormant (Sleeping Beauty Castle), visitors – whether young or youngatheart – will enjoy the hightech workings and imagination behind such attractions as the multisensory, 3D Ratatouille ride and of course Pirates of the Caribbean. At the adjacent Walt Disney Studios® Park, dedicated to Disney’s movies and television shows, visitors can experience the thrill of specialeffects rides and professional stunt shows.
Défense 3 La Metro Esplanade de la Défense or RER line A to Grande-Arche-dela-Défense French vision and flair coupled with Parisian style are clearly shown by this modern urban development. This business and government centre was purposely built to the west of the city to allow the centre to remain unmarred by skyscrapers. More than just offices, however, the area is also an attraction in its own right, with stunning sights such as the Grande Arche, a cube like structure with a centre large enough to contain Notre Dame, and surrounded by artworks, a fountain, cafés and restaurants.
156 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area de Vincennes 4 Bois Vincennes, 94300 Metro
de Boulogne 6 Bois MAP A2
Château de Vincennes/RER Vincennes Park: open dawn–dusk daily; château: Sep–Apr: 10am–5pm; May– Aug: 10am–6pm • Closed public hols • www.chateau-vincennes.fr Southeast of the city lies the Bois de Vincennes, which has several lakes with boating facilities, beautiful formal gardens, a Buddhist centre, a zoo and an amusement park. The Château de Vincennes was a royal residence before Versailles and has the tallest keep in Europe. The more energetic can walk here all the way from the Bastille along the lovely Promenade Plantée (see p58), formerly a railway viaduct.
7 Montparnasse Metro Gare Montparnasse
•
•
de la Villette 5 Parc 30 Ave Corentin-Cariou, 75019 • Metro Porte de Pantin • 01 40 03 75 75 • Opening times vary depending on the attraction • Admission charge for certain attractions • www.villette. com More than just a park, this landscape was created in 1993 to a futuristic design. It provides the usual park features of paths and gardens, but modern sculptures, zany park benches and several major high-tech attractions offer a different edge. These include the Philharmonie de Paris concert hall and museum and the interactive science museum, the Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie, an Omnimax cinema in a geodesic dome. There are also play areas for children (see p60).
Parc de la Villette’s Géode
This enormous park is Parisians’ favourite green retreat, especially on summer weekends when its 865 ha (2,135 acres) can become crowded. There is plenty to do here, apart from simply walking and picnicking, such as cycling, horse riding, boating or visiting the various attractions – including parks within the park, two race courses and the striking Frank Gehry-designed Fondation Louis Vuitton contemporary arts centre (see p159). The park is open 24 hours a day, but is best avoided after dark.
• Tour du Montparnasse: open 9:30am– 11:30pm daily (winter until 10:30pm, 11pm Fri & Sat); admission charge • Cemetery: open 8:30am–5:30pm daily • www.tourmontparnasse56.com The area of Montparnasse is always recognisable due to the 210-m (689-ft) Tour du Montparnasse, which offers spectacular views. Five minutes’ walk away is the area’s main draw, the Montparnasse Cemetery, where the great writers Maupassant, Sartre, de Beauvoir, Baudelaire and Samuel Beckett are buried (see p160). For breathtaking views of Paris by night, visit the rooftop restaurant Le Ciel de Paris.
Lachaise 8 Père Cemetery 8 Blvd de Ménilmontant • Metro Père-Lachaise • 01 55 25 82 10 • Open 8am–5:30pm Mon–Fri, 8:30am–5:30pm Sat, 9am–5:30pm Sun (Mar–Nov: to 6pm) This is the most visited cemetery in the world, largely due to rock fans who come from around the world to see the grave of the legendary singer Jim Morrison of The Doors. There are about one million other graves here, and some 70,000 different tombs, including those of Chopin, Oscar Wilde, Balzac, Edith Piaf, Colette, Molière and Delacroix (see p160). There are maps posted around the cemetery to help you find the most
Greater Paris ❮❮ 157 famous graves, and it’s also possible to download a map from equipement.paris.fr/ cimetiere-du-pere-lachaise.
A DAY IN THE BOIS DE VINCENNES La Rigadelle
METRO
Le Drapeau Ledru-Rollin metro & Baron Rouge 3 km
Château de Vincennes
Porte Dorée metro Lac Daumesnil
Château de Vincennes metro
Parc Floral
Bois de Vincennes
MORNING
Père Lachaise Cemetery
Monceau 9 Parc Blvd de Courcelles, 75008 Metro Monceau This civilized little park is no further from the city centre than Montmartre, yet it goes unnoticed by many visitors. It was created in 1778 by the Duc de Chartres and is still frequented by well-heeled residents. The park grounds are full of statues (see p56). •
Marmottan0 Musée Claude Monet 2 Rue Louis-Boilly, 75016 • Metro Muette • Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (9pm Thu) • Admission charge • www.marmottan.fr Paul Marmottan was an art historian and his 19th-century mansion now houses the world’s largest collection of works by Claude Monet, including his Impression Soleil Levant, which gave the Impressionist movement its name. The collection was donated by the artist’s son in 1966, and includes Monet’s own collection of works by Renoir and Gauguin. THE TREATY OF VERSAILLES France, Great Britain, the USA, Italy and Germany negotiated this agreement after World War I at Versailles, which required Germany to demilitarize parts of its territory, reduce the size of its army, abolish conscription, cease trading in military equipment and to pay compensation. The Treaty was signed on 28 June 1919.
To escape the bustle and crowds of the city, put on your walking shoes and head to the Bois de Vincennes. Take metro line 1 to Château de Vincennes, stopping off at Le Drapeau brasserie (118 Cours de Vincennes) opposite the château’s entrance for a cup of coffee. Cross over the road (or follow signs from the metro if you skipped coffee) to the medieval castle that was at the heart of the French monarchy until 1682, when Louis XIV decided to settle in Versailles. Look out for the ornate gate and stained-glass windows of the Gothic Sainte-Chapelle. For a sit-down lunch, try La Rigadelle (23 Rue de Montreuil • 01 43 28 04 23), just outside the fortress, which specializes in fish and seafood dishes. AFTERNOON
Walk off lunch amid the flowers and botanical plants in the Parc Floral within the Bois, then head for the charmingly kitsch minigolf course featuring models of Parisian monuments. Afterwards, if you’re still feeling energetic, stroll to Lac Daumesnil, where you can rent a boat to row around the lake’s two islands. Time to rejoin urban life? Head to the Porte Dorée metro station via Avenue du Général Laperrine and take the metro to the jolly hubbub of the Aligre quarter. From LedruRollin metro station, walk to the lively Baron Rouge (see p101) for a well-earned aperitif. See map on pp154–5
158 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Versailles Sights Hall of Mirrors 1 The The spectacular 70-m (233-ft) long Galerie des Glaces has been magnificently restored. It was in this room that the Treaty of Versailles was signed in 1919, formally ending World War I.
Royale 2 Chapelle The Royal Chapel is regarded as one of the finest Baroque buildings in the country. Finished in 1710, its elegant, white marble Corinthian columns and numerous murals make for an awe-inspiring place of prayer.
de Venus 3 Salon In this elaborate room, which is decorated predominantly in marble, a statue of Louis XIV, the creator of Versailles, stands centre stage, exuding regal splendour beneath the fine painted ceiling.
Bedroom 4 Queen’s Nineteen royal infants were
born in this opulent room, which has been meticulously restored to exactly how it appeared when it was last used by Marie-Antoinette in 1789.
Marble Courtyard
5 Approaching the front of
the palace across the vast open forecourt, visitors finally reach the splendour of the black-and-white marble courtyard, which is the oldest section of the palace. The north and south wings were added later.
Salon d’Apollon
d’Apollon 6 Salon Louis XIV’s throne room
is, naturally, one of the palace’s centrepieces, and features a suitably regal portrait of the great Sun King. Dedicated to the god Apollo, it strikingly reflects the French monarchy’s divine self-image.
7 L’Opéra The opulent opera house
was built in 1770 for the marriage of the Dauphin, the future Louis XVI, to Marie-Antoinette. The floors were designed so that they could be raised to stage level during special festivals.
Trianon 8 Le In the southeast corner of the
gardens, Louis XIV and Louis XV had the Grand and Petit Trianon palaces built as “private” retreats. MarieAntoinette was given Petit Trianon by Louis XVI.
Gardens 9 Palace The palace gardens feature
many walkways, landscaped topiary, fountains, pools, statues and the Orangery, where exotic plants were kept in the winter. The magnificent Fountain of Neptune is situated to the north of the North Wing.
of the King 0 Stables The magnificent stables have Black-and-white marble courtyard
been restored and they now house the famous Bartabas Academy of Equestrian Arts.
Greater Paris ❮❮ 159
Bois de Boulogne Features de Bagatelle Louis Vuitton 1 Parc 6 Fondation Differing garden styles feature A thrilling example of modern in this park, including English and Japanese, though for most visitors the major attraction is the huge rose garden, best seen in June.
Pré Catelan
2 This park-within-a-park is
at the very centre of the Bois. Its lawns and wooded areas include a magnificent 200-year-old beech tree and the idyllic eponymous restaurant (see p161).
d’Acclimatation 3 Jardin The main children’s area of the Bois incorporates a small amusement park, a zoo with a farm and a pets’ corner, and a Herb Museum aimed especially at children (see p61).
La Grande Cascade
4 This artificial waterfall was a major undertaking when the park was built, requiring concrete to be shipped down the Seine.
5 Lakes Two long, thin lakes adjoin
each other. The larger of the two, confusingly called Lac Inférieur (the other is Lac Supérieur) has boats for hire and a motor boat to take you to the islands.
architecture, this glass Frank Gehrydesigned building hosts art events and exhibitions (see p53).
de Longchamp 7 Château While he redesigned central Paris (see p43), Baron Haussmann landscaped the Bois de Boulogne. This chateau was given to him as a thank-you by Napoleon III.
Garden 8 Shakespeare Inside Pré Catelan is a little
garden planted with all the trees, flowers and herbs mentioned in the plays of Shakespeare. There is a lovely open-air theatre.
des Serres 9 Jardin d’Auteuil
This 19th-century garden has a series of greenhouses where ornamental hothouse plants are grown. In the centre is a palm house with tropical plants.
0 Horse-Racing The Bois is home to two
race courses. To the west is the Hippodrome de Longchamp, where flat racing takes place, including the Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Triomphe (see p75); in the east, the Hippodrome d’Auteuil holds steeplechases. Lac Inférieur
160 ❯❯ Paris Area by Area
Notable Graves Morrison, Père 1 Jim Lachaise Cemetery The American lead singer of The Doors rock band spent the last few months of his life in Paris and died here in 1971. Fans still hold vigils at his grave, which is covered with scrawled messages from those who come from all over the world.
Wilde, Père 2 Oscar Lachaise Cemetery
The Dublin-born author died in 1900, after allegedly uttering: “My wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. One or the other of us has to go.” His tomb is unmissable, with a huge monument by Jacob Epstein.
Chopin, Père 3 Fredéric Lachaise Cemetery The Polish composer was born in 1810 and died in Paris at the age of 39. The statue on his tomb represents “the genius of music sunk in grief”.
Piaf, Père 4 Edith Lachaise Cemetery
The iconic French chanteuse, known as the “little sparrow”, was born in
poverty in the Belleville district of Paris in 1915, less than 1,500 m (5,000 ft) from where she was buried in 1963 in a simple black tomb.
Proust, Père 5 Marcel Lachaise Cemetery
The ultimate chronicler of Paris, Proust was born in the city in 1871. He is buried in the family tomb (see p44).
Beckett, 6 Samuel Montparnasse Cemetery
The Irish-born Nobel Prize-winning writer settled in Paris in 1937, having previously studied here. He died in 1989 and his gravestone is a simple slab, reflecting the writer’s enigmatic nature (see p45).
Sartre and 7 Jean-Paul Simone de Beauvoir, Montparnasse Cemetery
Joined together in death as in life, even though they never actually lived together, their joint grave is a remarkably simple affair. Both of these philosophers were born, lived and died in Paris.
de Maupassant, 8 Guy Montparnasse Cemetery
The great French novelist and shortstory writer died in Paris in 1893, and his grave, with its luxuriant growth of shrubs, stands out because of the open book carving (see p44).
Baudelaire, 9 Charles Montparnasse Cemetery
The poet who shocked the world with his frank and decadent collection of poems Les Fleurs du Mal, published in 1857, was born in Paris in 1821 and died here in 1867.
Pigeon Family, 0 Charles Montparnasse Cemetery
Edith Piaf’s gravestone
This charming and touching grave shows Charles Pigeon and his wife in bed, reading by the light of the gas lamp he invented.
Greater Paris ❮❮ 161
Places to Eat PRICE CATEGORIES For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges € under €30 €€ €30–€50 €€€ over €50
6 Chatomat 6 Rue Victor Letalle, 75020 Metro Ménilmontant • 01 47 97 25 77 • Closed L, Mon, Sun • €€ Locals love the concise but creative modern menu on offer here. •
Pré Catelan 1 Le Route de Suresnes, Bois de
Gare 7 La 19 Chaussée de la Muette,
Boulogne, 75016 • Metro Porte Maillot • 01 44 14 41 14 • Closed Sun, Mon, 2 weeks Feb, 3 weeks Aug, 1 week Nov • €€€ Tucked away in the Bois de Boulogne (see p156) is this high-class dining pavilion. Romantic setting and elegant service.
75016 • Metro La Muette • 01 42 15 15 31 • €€ Any visit to the Bois de Boulogne, should include a stop at La Gare. This stylish brasserie in a former railway station has a terrace.
Ramsay au 2 Gordon Trianon 1 Blvd de la Reine, Versailles • RER line C to Versailles • 01 30 84 50 18 • Closed Sun–Thu L, Jan, Aug • €€€ Celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay’s protegé Simone Zanoni is the chef at this excellent two-Michelinstarred restaurant.
17.37 3 Le 5 Rue du Marché Neuf, Versailles • 01 39 63 26 37 • Closed Mon D, Sat L, Sun • € Close to the château (see p155), this informal bistro serves homemadestyle dishes and excellent wine.
Petit Vingtième 4 Le 381 Rue des Pyrénées, 75019 Metro Jourdain • 01 43 49 34 50 Closed Mon–Wed L, Sun • €€ Imaginative menus of modern French cooking draw foodies to this restaurant. • •
Closerie des Lilas 5 La MAP E6 171 Blvd du •
Montparnasse, 75006 • 01 40 51 34 50 • €€€ With its piano bar and terrace, this is a Montparnasse institution. The brasserie is cheaper than the main restaurant. The steak tartare is recommended.
Interior of La Gare
Baratin 8 Le 3 Rue Jouye-Rouve, 75020 Metro Pyrénées • 01 43 49 39 70 Closed Sun, Mon • No disabled access • No vegetarian options • €€€ A local favourite in Belleville, this bistro serves modern French cuisine with excellent wines. The fixed-price lunch is particularly popular. • •
Perchoir 9 Le 14 Rue Crespin du Gast, 75020 Metro Ménilmontant • 01 48 06 18 48 • Closed Mon–Sat L, Sun • €€ A trendy rooftop restaurant offering innovative French dishes. There’s an open-air cocktail bar too. •
d’Auteuil 0 Relais 31 Blvd Murat, 75016
• Metro Michel Ange Molitor • 01 46 51 09 54 • Closed Sat L, Sun, Mon, Aug • €€€ At the southern end of the Bois de Boulogne is this gourmet restaurant. Try the sea bass in a pepper crust.
See map on pp154–5
Streetsmart
Art Nouveau entrance to St-Michel metro station
Getting To and Around Paris
164
Practical Information
166
Places to Stay
172
General Index
180
Acknowledgments
188
Phrase Book
190
164 ❯❯ Streetsmart
Getting To and Around Paris Travelling by Metro metro station. Set off at least three hours before Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle the flight time (the journey The Paris metro system Airport is the arrival point takes more than an hour). is cheap and efficient. The for most international network is comprehensive flights, 23 km (14 miles) and the service is frequent. Arriving by Train northeast of central Paris. It operates roughly Eurostar trains arrive at Its main terminals are 5:30am–12:30am (until the Gare du Nord, slightly 1:30–2am Fri, Sat and some distance apart, so check which one you need north of the city centre. the evening before public when returning. A 24-hour There is a tourist office holidays); exact times English-language inform- by the Grandes Lignes are given at stations. ation service is available. exit. The station is served by three metro lines and CDG is connected to Travelling by RER central Paris by Air France three RER lines. The The RER train system and Roissy bus services, metro station is reached from the concourse and is (5am–12:30am; to 1:30am and (the easiest option) the RER train line B3. This clearly signposted. There Fri, Sat and the evening is also a taxi rank outside. before public holidays) links with Gare du Nord, has only five lines, but the Les Halles and St-Michel. network goes further into A taxi to the city centre Arriving by Coach the suburbs. Metro tickets takes between 30 minutes are only valid on RER and 1 hour, depending on The main bus operator, Eurolines, has services trains in Zone 1. If you are the traffic, and costs from the UK, Ireland, travelling further, such as about €65 (Uber-X €45). to Versailles or one of the Orly is 14 km (8.5 miles) Germany and several south of the city centre and other European countries. airports, you must buy a separate RER ticket. is used by French domestic Coaches arrive at Gare services and some interna- Routière Internationale, east of the city centre but Travelling by Bus tional airlines. It has two linked to the metro by the terminals: Orly-Sud is Galliéni station on Line 3. Buses run approximately mainly for international 6:30am–8:30pm, with flights; Orly-Ouest is for some services continuing domestic flights. English- Arriving by Car until 12:30am and others language information is All French autoroutes, operating through the night available 6am–11:30pm. Air France coaches run from whichever direction, (Noctilien buses). A Grand Plan de Paris available to and from Etoile, Invalides link up with Paris’s busy from metro stations shows and Montparnasse metro Boulevard Périphérique and mainline stations. The (Inner Ring Road). Access bus routes. Metro tickets are valid in Zones 1 and 2, high-speed Orlyval shuttle to central Paris is via train serves both of Orly’s different exits (portes), so but you cannot switch between bus and metro on terminals from Antony on drivers should always the same ticket. You can RER line B4. Metro signs check their destination before setting off and know also buy a ticket from the to Orly on RER C refer to Orly town (not Orly airport). which exit they will need. driver for a little more To park on the street you than from a machine. Bus Taxis take about 30 will need the manoeuvring stops show the line route. minutes and cost about ability of a local. Meters €45 (Uber-X €40). take the prepaid carte only, Taxis Beauvais Tillé Airport is some 70 km (43 miles) which is available to buy north of Paris and is used from tobacconists (tabac). The best way to find a taxi by some low-cost airlines. Otherwise use one of the is to head for one of the There is a connecting bus underground car parks in 470 taxi ranks (look for the taxi icon on a blue the city, which are safe. link with Porte Maillot Arriving by Air
Getting To and Around Paris ❮❮ 165 background), or ask your hotel or restaurant to call for one. Some taxi compa nies accept bookings by phone or internet, though they cost a bit more, as you also pay for the time that it takes for them to get to you. Many drivers will not take more than three people, to avoid frontseat passengers. In general, fares are not expensive but there may be a charge for extra luggage. Uber is cheaper and charges no extra fee for luggage.
credit card at the access terminals, which operate in eight languages.
Self-Service Driving
Tickets, valid for metro, bus and RER Zone 1, can be bought in batches of 10 (un carnet), which offer savings on the price of a single ticket. Each ticket is valid for one journey in central Paris, no matter how many changes are made. They must be stamped when you enter the metro or bus and retained until you leave. Spot checks are frequent and you will be fined if not in possession of a valid ticket; on the RER you need your ticket to exit the machines. If staying for a few days, consider buying a Navigo Découverte (photo ID needed), or a Paris Visite card, available for up to five days and which offers savings at few attractions.
Autolib is a selfservice, electriccar system. To use it, you’ll need an Interna tional or European driving license, a valid passport, and a Visa or Mastercard. Register online, at an Autolib terminal (on the street by the cars) or at the information office.
On Foot
Riverboat The Batobus runs year round and its eight stops link all the major sights on the river. Boats run every 20–25 minutes, from 10am to 9:30pm (until 7pm in winter). Oneand twoday passes are available (you can’t buy single tickets).
Buying Tickets and Travel Cards
Central Paris is fairly compact, and a walk from the Arc de Triomphe to the Bastille should only take an hour. Be sure to look up to see the old buildings – and down to avoid the evidence of Parisian dogs. A pleasant walk is the Promenade Plantée, a former railway viaduct that puts you high above Arrondissements the city streets (see p58). The city is divided into 20 arrondissements (districts), Cycling radiating out in a clockwise Paris is great for cyclists. spiral from the centre. The Hire bikes via Allovelo or first is abbreviated to 1er Parisvelosympa, or try (Premier) and they follow the selfservice scheme on as 2e, 3e (Deuxième, Vélib’. These bike stands Troisième). The post code are found every 300 metres for the first district is (330 yards) and payment 75001, the second is can be made online or by 75002, and so on.
DIRECTORY AIRPORTS Beauvais Tillé § 08 92 68 20 66 ∑ aeroportbeauvais.com Charles-de-Gaulle Airport (CDG) § 39 50 ∑ adp.fr Orly Airport § 39 50 ∑ adp.fr PARKING Prepaid parking ∑ parkingsdeparis.com
TRAIN AND COACH Eurolines ∑ eurolines.co.uk Eurostar § 08 92 35 35 39 ∑ eurostar.com SNCF § 08 92 35 35 35 ∑ sncf.fr
METRO, RER AND BUSES ∑ ratp.fr TAXIS G7
§ 36 07 ∑ taxisg7.fr
Taxis Bleus § 36 09 ∑ taxis-bleus.com Uber ∑ uber.com
SELF-SERVICE DRIVING Autolib ∑ autolib.eu CYCLING Allovelo ∑ allovelo.com Parisvelosympa ∑ parisvelosympa.com Vélib’ ∑ velib.paris.fr
RIVERBOAT Batobus § 08 25 05 01 01 ∑ batobus.com
166 ❯❯ Streetsmart
Practical Information Passports and Visas fees. All other nationalities Personal Security No visa is required for citizens of EU countries, the US, Canada, Australia or New Zealand if you are staying for less than three months, although your passport will need to be valid for at least three months beyond the end of your stay. Citizens of other countries should consult their French embassy or consulate before travelling.
should take out private insurance. Report all crimes or lost property, and keep a copy of the statement you make to the police so that you can claim back on insurance.
Pharmacies
A green cross (usually in flashing neon) indicates a pharmacy (chemist). They are usually open 9am– 7pm Monday to Saturday. At other times, the address Customs of the duty pharmacy will For EU citizens there are usually be displayed, or ask no limits on goods that at the local gendarmerie. can be taken into or out of Pharmacies will advise France, provided they are on minor health problems for your personal use. and can give details of the Outside the EU, you may nearest doctor. import the following allowances duty-free: 200 Hospitals cigarettes or equivalent in Paris hospitals are listed tobacco; 1 litre of spirits (more than 22% alcohol); in the phone directory, or 2 litres if less than 22%, 4 check the website of the litres of wine and 16 litres Assistance Publique. The most centrally located of beer; €430 (if you’re travelling by air) worth of hospital is the Hôtel Dieu. If you are in need of an other items. ambulance, dial the SAMU Travel Safety Advice Fire Department number. Fire stations have ambuVisitors can get up-to-date lances and are qualified to travel safety information give first aid and often from the Foreign and arrive faster. Commonwealth Office in UK, the State Department Dentists in US and the Department These are listed in the of Foreign Affairs and Paris Pages Jaunes (Yellow Trade in Australia. Pages) under Dentistes. In the case of an emergency, Health and a service called SOS Travel Insurance Dentistes will provide a French medical treatment prompt house call, but is excellent but expensive. be prepared to pay a Visitors from EU countries substantial amount for should carry a European this visit. A dental practice Health Insurance card can be found at the Centre (EHIC) to avoid emergency Médical Europe.
Petty theft is as common in Paris as in any major city. Pickpockets frequent tourist spots such as the Eiffel Tower and the Arc de Triomphe, as well as wandering the metro system and RER so guard your belongings at all times. To report a theft, go to the commissariat de police. There’s a list on en.parisinfo.com, or call the Préfecture Centrale for details (open 24 hours a day). All crimes should be reported, if only for insurance purposes. Mugging is less of a problem in Paris than in other big cities, but it can happen. Try not to walk alone late at night and avoid unlit streets. Try to avoid long changes between metro lines too: better a longer journey than an unfortunate experience. The main stations to avoid at night are Les Halles and Gare du Nord. Women travellers are unlikely to experience any particular problems. Parisian men are generally courteous towards women. A firm rebuttal usually halts unwanted attention. Take care when crossing Paris’s roads. French drivers are not known for respecting pedestrians, though a red light will usually – though not always – make them stop. Pedestrians do not have automatic priority on a crossing, unless the lights are also in their favour. At pedestrian
Practical Information ❮❮ 167 crossings, motorists often Express because of the have the right to turn commission it incurs. right, so look before you Cash Dispensers start to cross.
(ATMs)
Lost Property If you lose any of your belongings you could try Objets Trouvés (the city’s lost-and-found office).
Currency France’s currency is the euro (€). Euro banknotes come in seven denominations: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. There are also eight coins: €1 and €2, and 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1 cents (also referred to as centimes). Both notes and coins are valid and interchangeable all over the euro zone.
commission” signs can be misleading, as they may well mean an unfavourable rate.
There are ATMs all over Paris, and each one indicates which cards it accepts. Many of them give instructions in a range of languages. If you know your PIN, obtaining cash in this way is very easy, though most banks levy a charge on foreign withdrawals. Note that the metro/RER and SNCF ticket vending machines do not always work with North American credit cards, as they are designed for a chip-and-PIN system rather than with magnetic- strip cards.
Driving Licences
Changing Money
Electrical Appliances
Bureaux de Change exist throughout, especially near tourist hotspots. These are widely accepted Some banks also have throughout Paris. The only either a bureau de change exception is American or foreign desk. “No
Credit and Debit Cards
All European and US driving licences are valid in France. UK visitors need both parts of their licence. Visitors from other countries should check with their local motoring organizations.
Time Difference France is in the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): 1 hour ahead of the UK, 6 hours ahead of North American EST and 9 hours ahead of PST.
Electricity runs on 220V out of double, round-pin wall sockets. You will need adaptors, and possibly a transformer (for some US electrical appliances).
DIRECTORY EMBASSIES AND CONSULATES Australia MAP B4 • 4 Rue JeanRey, 75015 § 01 40 59 33 00 ∑ france.embassy.gov.au Canada MAP C3 • 35 Ave Montaigne, 75008 § 01 44 43 29 00 ∑ canadainternational. gc.ca/france New Zealand MAP D4 • 103 Rue de Grenelle, 75007 § 01 45 01 43 43 ∑ nzembassy.com/france UK MAP D3 • 35 Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 75008 § 01 44 51 31 00 ∑ ukinfrance.fco.gov.uk
US MAP D3 • Ave Gabriel, 75001 § 01 43 12 22 22 ∑ france.usembassy.gov TRAVEL SAFETY ADVICE Australia ∑ dfat.gov.au ∑ smartraveller.gov.au UK ∑ gov.uk/foreign-traveladvice US ∑ travel.state.gov
EMERGENCY NUMBERS All Emergencies § 112 Ambulance (SAMU) § 15 Fire Department § 18
Police
§ 17
HEALTH AND SAFETY Assistance Publique ∑ aphp.fr Centre Médical Europe MAP E2 • 44 Rue d’Amsterdam, 75009 § 01 42 81 93 33 Hôtel Dieu MAP N4 • Pl du Parvis Notre Dame, 75004 § 01 42 34 82 34 Objets Trouvés 36 Rue des Morillons, 75007 § 08 21 00 25 25 Prefecture Centrale § 01 53 73 53 73 (24/7) SOS Dentistes MAP F6 • 87 Blvd Port Royal, 75013 § 01 43 37 51 00
168 ❯❯ Streetsmart Communications Paris phone numbers begin with 01 or 09 and have eight subsequent digits, usually written in four sets of two digits. If calling Paris from overseas, use the IDD code for your country (00 or 001 in some cases), then France’s country code (33), then the local number minus the initial zero. Mobile phone numbers begin with 06 and 07. Check the roaming rates with your operator before your trip. Pay-as-you-go SIM cards can be bought for unlocked phones and topped up at tobacconists. Public telephones (as of February 2016) no longer accept télécartes (phonecards). Instead, you should use a credit card. Most hotels and many cafés provide free Wi-Fi access. You can also connect for free to the Paris Wi-Fi network from more than 260 parks and libraries. The main post office is in the heart of Paris at 52 rue de Louvre (open 24 hours). It does not exchange currency or travellers’ cheques but will exchange international postal cheques and money orders. For simple letters and postcards, you can buy stamps at a tabac (tobacconist) rather than try to find a post office. Not all of them advertise the service, but if they sell postcards it is worth asking. Some hotels and newsagents also sell postage stamps. A wide choice of the major foreign newspapers is available on the day of
publication throughout Paris. The closer you are to the Champs-Elysées, the more you will see. The popular International New York Times is published in Paris. Most hotels subscribe to multilingual cable and satellite channels, which vary the diet of Frenchlanguage entertainment.
Opening Hours Department stores and chain boutiques are usually open 9:30am–7pm Monday to Saturday. Late-night shopping is on Thursdays until 9pm. Independent shops often don’t open up until 10 or 11am, and may be closed during the holidays, on Mondays and/or between noon and 2pm, but some open on Sundays in main tourist areas. Many food shops are open on a Sunday morning. Museums are generally open 9/10am to 5/6pm and some have a late opening one evening a week. Most museums close either on a Monday or Tuesday. Banks are usually open Tuesday to Saturday 9am–4pm. Businesses, banks, most shops and many restaurants are closed on New Year’s Day, Easter Monday, 1 May (Labour Day), 8 May (VE Day), Ascension Day (40 days after Easter), Whitsun (7th Sunday after Easter), Whit Monday (the day after Whitsun), 14 July (Bastille Day), 15 August (Assumption), 1 November (All Saints’ Day), 11 November (Armistice Day) and 25 December (Christmas Day).
Weather Paris has a temperate and pleasant climate. Summers can be hot, with temperatures sometimes reaching 35–40°C (95– 105°F). Both spring and autumn are mild, with a fair amount of rain, but there are also many bright days. Winter is cold, though the light then can be beautiful.
Tourist Information The main tourist office is located close to the Pyramides metro station. It is well stocked with brochures, and has hotel and tour reservation services. There are also Welcome Points at Gares du Nord, de Lyon and de l’Est, and by Anvers metro station. The Espace du Tourisme d’Ile de France tourist facility serves both Paris and the wider Ile de France region, and is the best source of advice and information on visiting places outside the city. It has offices in airports and train stations, plus a useful website. Aside from the Paris tourist office, another useful official site is the Hôtel de Ville (Paris City Hall), with lots of information and links in French and English. There are also countless English-language blogs and websites on Paris. Bonjour Paris is a weekly email newsletter with articles and current information on cultural activities, as well as restaurant openings and closings in the city. Other blogs include Spotted by Locals, with
Practical Information ❮❮ 169 lots of tips from local residents; Alexander Lobrano’s Hungry for Paris, a restaurant guide by a respected food critic and long-time Paris resident; and Davis Lebovitz’s My Paris, with restaurant and other reviews plus recipes from a former Chez Panisse chef and food writer based in Paris. For information about what’s on, there are two indispensable weekly listings magazines, the Officiel des Spectacles and Pariscope, which has a small English section; both are available from newsagents and kiosks. Also handy are the free weekly A Nous Paris, which is available in metro stations, and the Sortir insert in the weekly magazine Télérama. Paris Voice is a monthly magazine published by the American Church and
aimed at US residents in Paris. Available from English-language bookshops, it is a good source of information and also has a website.
Disabled Travellers The Paris tourist office site has a great deal of information on facilities for the disabled, including useful addresses. Another good source of information, but in French only, is the Association des Paralysés de France (APF), which publishes a guide to disabled access at Paris’s museums, theatres and cinemas. All buses are wheelchair accessible. Line 14 is the only metro line that is fully accessible. Around 20 RER stations are accessible and most require a member of station staff to operate lifts. The website
infomobi details exactly which stations are wheelchair accessible. It is a legal requirement for taxi drivers to help people with disabilities in and out of their vehicle, and to carry guide dogs as passengers. This does not mean that all taxis are able to carry wheelchairs, so check when booking. Taxi G7 has a special service for clients in wheelchairs. Many older hotels are unsuitable for people with mobility problems as they are without elevators – check before booking. Newer hotels and modern chain hotels are usually wheelchair accessible, but always check. Tourism for All, in the UK, has a useful list of specialist tour operators; in the US, Sage Traveling offers a range of packages and assistance.
DIRECTORY FRENCH TOURIST OFFICES The French Tourist Office (Atout France) has branches in many world capitals and other international cities. Australia & New Zealand au.france.fr Britain uk.france.fr Canada ca.france.fr US us.france.fr Espace du Tourisme d’Ile de France ∑ visitparisregion.com Office de Tourisme de Paris MAP K1 • 25 Rue des Pyramides, 75001 Open 10am–7pm daily (9am–7pm May–Oct) ∑ parisinfo.com
WEBSITES
DISABLED ACCESS
Bonjour Paris ∑ bonjourparis.com
APF ∑ apf.asso.fr
Hungry for Paris ∑ alexanderlobrano. com
infomobi ∑ infomobi.com
My Paris ∑ davidlebovitz.com/ paris Officiel des Specacles ∑ offi.fr Paris City Hall ∑ paris.fr Paris Voice ∑ parisvoice.com Pariscope https://fr-fr.facebook. com/pariscope.fr Spotted by Locals ∑ spottedbylocals.com
Sage Traveling § 1 888 645 7920; from UK 020 3540 6155 ∑ sagetraveling.com Taxi G7 § 01 47 39 36 07 ∑ taxisg7.fr Tourism for All § 0845 124 9971; outside UK +44 1539 726 111 ∑ tourismforall.org.uk
170 ❯❯ Streetsmart Shopping
Dining
As the world capital of fashion, Paris is simply unbeatable for clothes shopping and is home to all the top names. Don’t forget, too, to look out for independent designers and labels often found nowhere else, such as Antoine et Lili (see p96). For vintage clothes try Vintage Désir (32 rue des Rosiers, 75004) and Didier Ludot in the Palais Royal’s arcades (see p104). Parisians are fiercely loyal to their local food shops: each quartier has its own boulangerie, patisserie, fromagerie and charcuterie, each one selling top-quality produce. One of the best areas for exquisite delis is Place de la Madeleine (see p70), where you’ll find Maille, Hédiard, Fauchon and Ladurée; and don’t miss La Grande Epicerie at Le Bon Marché, with its fabulous array of fresh and packed foods. Check out the street markets, too (see pp70–71). Worth a visit for their wonderful belle époque interiors alone are the city’s department stores, Galeries Lafayette, Au Printemps and Le Bon Marché (see pp70–71). There are also a number of good concept stores, handy for a one-stop shop: try L’Eclaireur (26 Champs-Elysées), which sells clothes and hosts art exhibitions and events, or Merci (see p96). The vast flea market at Saint-Ouen (see p71) is excellent for bric-a-brac, while Marché Malassis (142 rue des Rosiers, 93400) stocks a range of 20th-century treasures.
Paris is almost synonymous with good food and eating well; it is, after all, the city that invented the restaurant, and Michelinstarred gastronomic restaurants abound. Recently, however, there has been a movement against the pricey, somewhat stuffy haute cuisine establishments, and young, innovative chefs are opening up more informal dining rooms and experimenting with uncommon flavours and ingredients. Wine bars, too, have undergone something of a revolution and many now pay as much attention to the food as the wine, going beyond the usual meat and cheese platters to offer well-sourced, inventive dishes. It’s still possible, of course, to find old-fashioned bistros serving well-cooked, traditional French classics such as confit de canard, poulet rôti and steak-frites. Traditional dishes are also served in brasseries, many of which, with their beautiful Art Nouveau decor, have become hallowed institutions and haven’t changed a bit in decades. Cafés usually serve food, too, and are often open on weekends when many restaurants are closed. It’s worth booking ahead if there’s a particular restaurant you have in mind; often the day before will be enough, though for the most popular places you’ll need to book some weeks in advance. Many restaurants close at the weekend, in August and at other holiday periods.
Parisians are casual but chic, so it’s worth taking a few smart outfits for dining out. Only the most expensive restaurants require men to wear a jacket and tie.
Trips and Tours A wide range of tours is available, from traditional boat rides along the Seine to leisurely wine-tasting cruises. Or you could tap into the expertise of a local and be guided to the best food and fashion shops. The long-established river boats, the BateauxMouches, run regular day and evening dinner cruises. Other boat trip operators include Paris Canal (see p58), Bateaux Parisiens, Vedettes de Paris and Vedettes du Pont-Neuf. City tours are available on a wide range of themes and in several languages. Secrets of Paris, Paris Walks and Context Travel are three leading English-language companies. For many DiscoverWalks tours you pay what you think is fair at the end of the tour. Several companies offer guided cycling tours with multilingual guides, including Paris à Vélo and Fat Tire Tours, which also offers Segway tours. For the less energetic, there are City Segway Tours. Numerous bus tours are available – ask at the main Office de Tourisme on rue des Pyramides (see p169). Tours usually last up to two hours but many companies allow you to hop on and off. Promenades Gourmandes runs tours of food markets and other
Practical Information ❮❮ 171 foodie haunts, while Edible Paris offers self-guided itineraries. O-Chateau runs wine-tasting cruises on the Seine. There are also wellinformed guides to direct you to the very best shops. With Chic Shopping Paris you take your choice from a range of themes.
to match; prices over €400 are not uncommon, though off-season and online deals can bring the rates down. A modest 2-star hotel will be around €80–€150 per room; for something a bit classier you’ll pay more like €160–€280. Boutique hotels are increasingly common and can be good value. The cheapest Accommodation rooms (costing around The Left Bank is a good €55) will often have only a area to stay if you fancy a sink in the room with the bohemian atmosphere bathroom on the landing. with cafés and plenty of When choosing a hotel, student life. The Marais it’s a good idea to ask has many museums, about the size of the shops and restaurants, rooms: some can be very while the Opéra and cramped. It is also worth Louvre quarters are checking if the rooms face central. To save money, busy, noisy roads. Rooms stay just outside the at the back, on the other centre and use the hand, can sometimes be excellent, cheap metro. rather dark. Ask if there is There are numerous an elevator to all floors, as sumptuous hotels in Paris in some older buildings with stratospheric prices this may not be the case.
It’s worth booking as far in advance as you can, as the best hotels get booked up quickly, especially in spring and autumn. If you’re staying for more than a few days and/or you’re a family or group of friends, renting an apartment can often be better value than a hotel. There’s a wide choice, ranging from studio garrets to luxury apartments. It’s also worth considering B&Bs, often cheaper and less impersonal than a hotel; most accommodate couples, but some can host families and some offer extras such as French conversation or guided tours. Hostels, aimed mostly at younger visitors, are another budget option; they tend to be slightly on the outskirts, but are well connected by metro.
DIRECTORY BOAT TRIPS Bateaux-Mouches § 01 42 25 96 10 ∑ bateaux-mouches.fr Bateaux Parisiens ∑ bateauxparisiens.com Vedettes de Paris § 01 44 18 19 50 ∑ vedettesdeparis.com Vedettes du Pont-Neuf § 01 46 33 98 38 ∑ vedettesdupontneuf.fr
Fat Tire Tours § 01 82 88 80 96 ∑ fattiretours.com O-Chateau § 01 44 73 97 80 ∑ o-chateau.com Paris à Vélo § 01 48 87 60 01 ∑ parisvelosympa.com Paris Walks § 01 48 09 21 40 ∑ paris-walks.com
Chic Shopping Paris ∑ chicshoppingparis.com
Promenades Gourmandes § 01 48 04 56 84 ∑ promenades gourmandes.com
Context Travel ∑ www.contexttravel.com
Secrets of Paris ∑ secretsofparis.com
GUIDED TOURS
DiscoverWalks ∑ discoverwalks.com/ paris-walking-tours Edible Paris ∑ edible-paris.com
WHERE TO STAY Accomodation booking sites ∑ airbnb.com
∑ booking.com ∑ hostelbookers.com ∑ housetrip.com ∑ parisinfo.com ∑ perfectlyparis.com
B&BS 52 Clichy ∑ 52clichy.com Alcove & Agapes ∑ bed-and-breakfast-inparis.com Good Morning Paris ∑ goodmorningparis.fr
HOSTELS FUAJ § 01 44 89 87 27 ∑ fuaj.org Generator Hostel ∑ generatorhostels.com St Christophers Inn ∑ st-christophers.co.uk
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Places to Stay Charles-Simon and Justine Favart, the ‘It’ couple of the 18th-century OpéraComique. Well-appointed, cheerfully decorated rooms have a courtesy tray; guests also have access to the small pool.
PRICE CATEGORIES For a standard double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges. € under €150
€€ €150–€350
Boutique Hotels Hôtel Amour MAP E2 8 Rue Navarin, 75009 01 48 78 31 80 www.hotelamourparis. fr €€ Situated just below the hill of Montmartre, this extremely trendy vintage hotel and bistro has medium-sized rooms decorated with cuttingedge photography and pop art (bare bottoms and more much are in evidence). As it is on a quiet residential street, guests can experience Parisian bohemia without the usual crowds. •
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Hôtel Baume
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A good choice for designconscious families, it has connecting rooms, as well Hôtel de NELL as larger rooms that MAP F2 9 Rue du include a sofabed. Conservatoire, 75009 Hôtel du Temps 01 44 83 83 60 www. MAP F2 11 Rue de www.hoteldenell.com €€€ Montholon, 75009 01 47 70 37 16 www.hotel- The sleek, minimalist du-temps.fr €€ rooms in this contemVintage furniture and porary hotel are ideal textiles give this creatively for a chic Parisian stay. decorated small hotel, Twenty minutes on foot near the Gare du Nord, a from the Louvre, the hotel home-away-from-home is on a quiet street away feel. Some rooms can be from the crowds. For a snug, but the imaginative more serene experience, touches fill the space with ask for a room facing the charm and style. interior courtyard. •
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MAP C3 25 Rue Vernet, MAP M5 7 Rue Casimir 75008 01 44 31 98 00 www.hotelvernetDelavigne, 75006 01 53 10 28 50 www.baume- paris.fr €€ hotel-paris.com/en/ €€ Steps away from the Minutes from the Jardin Champs-Elysées, this de Luxembourg, this recently renovated hotel modern hotel has recently combines cutting-edge been refurbished with a contemporary design with glamorous Art Decothe elegant framework of inspired interior. On the the post-Haussmannian upper floors, spacious building that it occupies. suites with a large terrace To have breakfast underoverlook the Neo-Classical neath the ornate, GustaveThéâtre de l’Odéon. Eiffel-designed glass dome is a stunning way Hôtel Bel Ami to start the day. MAP K4 7/11 Rue StBenoît, 75006 01 42 61 La Maison Favart MAP E3 5 Rue de 53 53 www.hotel belami-paris.fr €€ Marivaux, 75002 01 42 Occupying a former 97 59 83 www.lamaison favart.com €€ 19th-century printing works, this bright, stylish There is a sense of theatre at this graceful, hotel is on a small side street in the heart of lively small hotel dedicated to the colourful lives of St-Germain-des-Prés. •
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W Paris - Opéra Hotel MAP E2 4 Rue Meyerbeer, 75009 01 77 48 94 94 www.wparis opera.com €€€ Ideally located next to the Opéra National de Paris Garnier, the W brings its trendy, modern flair to Paris with 91 ultra-chic rooms and suites. Nab one with a view of the opera house. •
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Luxury Hotels Hôtel Molitor 13 Rue Nungesser et Coli, 75016 Metro MichelAnge – Molitor 01 56 07 08 50 www.mgallery. com €€ Stunningly refurbished in 2014, this immaculate hotel breathes new life into the historic Art Deco Piscine Molitor, where •
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Places to Stay ❮❮ 173 the beautiful people of has a dazzling restaurant 1930s Paris made waves. in the hotel, and there’s a Minutes from the elegant Dior spa too. botanical gardens in the Mandarin Oriental Bois de Boulogne, it is within walking distance of MAP E3 251 Rue the metro to central Paris. St-Honoré, 75001 01 70 98 78 88 www. Hôtel Raphaël mandarinoriental.com/ MAP B3 17 Ave Kleber, paris €€€ 75016 01 53 64 32 00 Centrally located on one of www.leshotelsbaverez. Paris’s most fashionable com €€–€€€ streets, the interiors of this This is one of the city’s hotel are both Art Deco finest hotels. The rooms and Oriental. The rooms have antique decor but and suites are luxurious they have been modernized and spacious, and the in terms of the facilities service is impeccable. they offer. Rooms on higher The two-Michelin-starred floors have stunning restaurant is excellent. Parisian city skyline views. Meurice The fitness room comes MAP E3 228 Rue de complete with hammam Rivoli, 75001 01 44 58 and sauna. 10 10 www.dorchester Four Seasons collection.com €€€ George V The sumptuous antique MAP C3 31 Ave George decor of the Meurice may V, 75008 01 49 52 70 00 not be original, but you www.fourseasons.com/ would never know it. The paris €€€ once-fading glory of this One of the most luxurious hotel has been completely and fashionable hotels in restored, and it now offers Paris, the George V spacious guest rooms and combines period features state-of-the-art facilities, with modern amenities. as well as interiors by Bedrooms are spacious, designer Philippe Starck, beautifully decorated and and a Valmont spa. have marble bathrooms. The two-Michelin-starred The Peninsula Paris MAP B3 19 Ave Kléber, restaurant, Le Cinq (see 75016 01 58 12 28 88 p117), is unquestionably paris.peninsula.com one of the finest places to €€€ dine in the whole of Paris. Occupying a sumptuously Hotel Plaza Athénée restored 1908 building, MAP C3 25 Ave this hotel feels modern and Montaigne, 75008 has some great contem01 53 67 66 65 www. porary artworks on display dorchestercollection.com in its vast public areas. €€€ Among the six drinking Surrounded by designer and dining outlets in the shops (see p116) is this hotel, the Oiseau Blanc venerable but thoroughly restaurant stands out modernized hotel, famed for its spectacular views. for its old-world air of Gershwin wrote the luxury and its immaculate musical, An American in service. Alain Ducasse Paris here in 1928. •
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Prince de Galles MAP C3 33 Ave George V, 75008 01 53 23 77 77 www.princedegalles paris.com €€€ Steps from the luxury and haute couture boutiques, this gloriously restored Art Deco hotel features handsome rooms, some with a balcony or terrace, and the Michelin-starred restaurant, La Scène. Guests can use the on-site spa and gym. •
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Le Royal Monceau MAP C2 37 Ave Hoche, 75008 01 42 99 88 00 www.raffles.com/paris €€€ This Paris branch of the Raffles hotel chain features interiors by Philippe Starck, two superb restaurants, and a Clarins spa with a pool. •
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Shangri-La Paris MAP A3 10 Ave d’Iéna, 75116 01 53 67 19 98 www.shangri-la.com €€€ Housed in the former home of Napoleon’s grand-nephew, this fabulous hotel is located in the elegant 16th arrondissement. Most of the rooms have views of the Eiffel Tower. •
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The Westin Paris MAP E3 3 Rue de Castiglione, 75001 01 44 77 11 11 www.westin.com €€€ The Westin is world away from the usual anonymity of chain hotels, being set in a 19th-century building designed by Charles Garnier. The original atmosphere has been retained, but the rooms offer everything you would expect from a hotel of this class. •
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174 ❯❯ Streetsmart Romantic Hotels
furnished with antiques and luxurious fabrics. Five Hotel Public spaces are hung 3 Rue Flatters, 75005 with tapestries, and Metro Les Gobelins there’s a library lounge. 01 43 31 74 21 www. Most rooms are small – thefivehotel.com € and the lift is possibly the Fibre-optic lighting creates tiniest in the city – but the a glittering atmosphere in location, in the heart of the many of this boutique Marais, makes up for it. hotel’s 24 rooms. The Hôtel Caron de rooms come in nine Beaumarchais colours, ranging from MAP R2 12 Rue Vieille sleek black to cheerful du Temple, 75004 01 42 plum-and-pink, and five “olfactory ambiences” by 72 34 12 www.hotelmarais-paris.com Esteban. The Five has No disabled access €€ already established a reputation as the perfect Wooden beams, a log fire, candlelight, authentic lovers’ hideaway hotel. decor and sparkling crystal Hôtel d’Aubusson chandeliers evoke the MAP M4 33 Rue essence of 18th-century Dauphine, 75006 01 43 romance. Rooms are 29 43 43 www.hotel beautiful and guests are daubusson.com €€ truly pampered. The rooms in this Le Relais Christine 17th-century building MAP M4 3 Rue are spacious and many Christine, 75006 01 40 of them have beams. 51 60 80 www.relaisThe hotel’s café doubles christine.com No as a chic jazz bar. disabled access €€ Hôtel Bellechasse This historic mansion MAP J2 8 Rue de with a spa offers a quiet Bellechasse, 75007 side-street escape from 01 45 50 22 31 www. the St-Germain bustle. lebellechasse.com No Opt for a terraced room disabled access €€–€€€ overlooking the secluded The fabulously opulent garden and take breakfast rooms at this hotel were in the vaulted dining room designed by Christian which was once the Lacroix. Special packages, refectory of an abbey. such as Pour Une Nuit, Hôtel Costes include a 3pm checkout, MAP E3 239 Rue Champagne and other indulgent treats. Located St-Honoré, 75001 01 42 44 50 00 www.hotel just a few minutes’ walk costes.com €€€ from the Musée d’Orsay. Book a first-floor room Hôtel Bourg Tibourg overlooking the courtyard MAP P3 19 Rue du for a romantic place to Bourg Tibourg, 75004 stay. Low lighting and 01 42 78 47 39 www. dark furniture add to bourgtibourg.com €€ the seductive mood, as The lavishly decorated does the Oriental-style rooms in this intimate swimming pool and boutique hotel are trendy restaurant. • •
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L’Hôtel MAP E4 13 Rue des Beaux-Arts, 75006 01 44 41 99 00 www. l-hotel.com €€€ This hotel has come up in the world since Oscar Wilde expired here, having uttered the famous words, “My wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. One or the other of us has to go.” Fashionable as it has become, with stylish decor by Jacques Garcia and a Michelinstarred restaurant, the hotel still retains its quirky charm. •
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Hôtel Particulier Montmartre MAP E1 23 Ave Junot, Pavillon D, 75018 01 53 41 81 40 www.hotelparticulier-montmartre. com No disabled access €€€ This hotel is a romantic hideaway right in the heart of Montmartre, housed in a former private residence. The five suites are individually decorated by artists in quirky and decadent style. •
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Hotels in Great Locations Hôtel Brighton MAP K1 218 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 01 47 03 61 61 www.paris-hotelbrighton.com €€ Enjoy the Rue de Rivoli, within walking distance of numerous attractions, without paying the usual prices associated with this location. The venerable Hôtel Brighton has been completely refurbished – ask for a room with a view over the Tuileries gardens opposite or, even better, of the Eiffel Tower. •
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Places to Stay ❮❮ 175 Hôtel Les Dames du Panthéon MAP N6 19 Pl du Panthéon, 75005 01 43 54 32 95 www.hotellesdamesdu pantheon.com €€ A small, retro-inspired hotel set in an 18thcentury building right by the Panthéon. •
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beamed ceilings. Some rooms overlook a peaceful courtyard, and all are quite small, however the welcoming atmosphere makes up for that.
a contemporary style or classic 1930s French, depending on which wing you stay in. The hotel also boasts an Italian restaurant, l’Assaggio.
Hôtel d’Orsay
Hôtel Le Bristol Paris
MAP J2 93 Rue de Lille, 75007 01 47 05 85 54 www.paris-hotel-orsay. com €€ Art-lovers will enjoy this hotel, in an 18thcentury building near to the magnificent Musée d’Orsay. The hotel’s bright and modern decor is strikingly offset with choice items of elegant antique furniture here and there. Several more expensive suites are also available. A buffet breakfast is served in a light and airy room under a glass roof.
MAP D3 112 Rue du Faubourg St-Honoré, 75008 01 53 43 43 00 www.lebristolparis.com €€€ Prices reflect the level of luxury and the location, on the Faubourg St-Honoré. Rooms are spacious, and fitted out with antique furniture. They offer indulgently large marble bathrooms, as well as all the latest modern facilities. There are also two restaurants.
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Hôtel des Deux-Iles MAP Q5 59 Rue StLouis-en-l’Ile, 75004 01 43 26 13 35 www. hoteldesdeuxiles.com No disabled access €€ To stay on one of the Seine islands is a treat, and to do it in this hotel is a double treat. The bedrooms may be small, due to the building’s 17th-century origins, but the cheerful decor, the intimacy (only 17 rooms) and the hidden patio with its flowers and fountain more than compensate. •
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Pavillon de la Reine
MAP R3 28 Pl des Vosges, 75003 01 40 29 19 19 www.pavillon-deMAP M2 21 Rue des la-reine.com €€€ Hôtel Edouard VII Prêtres-St-GermainThis may well be the best MAP E3 39 Ave de l’Auxerrois, 75001 01 hotel in the Marais, right l’Opéra, 75002 01 42 61 42 33 78 68 www.paris- on the Place des Vosges. 56 90 www.hotel hotel-place-du-louvre. Lovely rooms, a spa and edouard7-paris.fr €€ com No disabled access a quiet courtyard. €€ An elegant boutique Rooms with hotel with eclectic design The 20 rooms in this a View neat little hotel may features and oodles of charm. Most rooms have be small, but many Hôtel du Quai of them offer a superb the bonus of breathVoltaire taking balcony views over view onto the colonnade MAP K2 19 Quai of the Louvre museum. the spectacular Opéra Voltaire, 75007 01 42 61 National de Paris Garnier. The decor is bright 50 91 www.quaivoltaire. and fresh, and cleverly The bar serves tailorfr No air conditioning mixes classic and made cocktails and the No disabled access restaurant offers inventive modern influences. € seasonal cuisine. Castille Impressionist artist Hôtel du Jeu MAP E3 33 Rue Camille Pissarro (1830– de Paume Cambon, 75001 1903) painted the view of MAP Q5 54 Rue St-Louis01 44 58 44 58 the Seine and Notrewww.castille.com en-l’Ile, 75004 01 43 26 Dame visible from most €€€ 14 18 www.jeude of the guest rooms here. paumehotel.com €€ This elegant hotel is Rooms are small, but Tucked away on the Ile located near Place the warm welcome and St-Louis is this beautiful Vendôme. The bedrooms the location more than old building with ancient are decorated in either make up for that. •
Hôtel de la Place du Louvre
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For a key to hotel price categories see p172
176 ❯❯ Streetsmart Artus Hôtel MAP L4 34 Rue de Buci, 75006 01 43 29 07 20 www.artushotel.com No disabled access €€ Indulge yourself in the food shops of the Rue de Buci, then pamper yourself even more back in this hotel – especially if you have booked the suite with a Jacuzzi, from which there are views of the rooftops of the Latin Quarter. •
with its oak panelling and plush sofas.
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Hotel Square
MAP A5 3 Rue de Boulainvilliers, 75016 01 44 14 91 90 www. hotelsquare.com €€ The Square is an ultrachic boutique hotel with 22 rooms and views over Paris. The dramatic architecture includes a four-storey exhibition wall featuring modern art. Bourgogne & Montana Classic and inventive MAP D4 3 Rue de cuisine is served at hip Bourgogne, 75007 01 Zebra Square restaurant, 45 51 20 22 www. and there’s also a spa. bourgogne-montana.com No disabled access €€ Le Notre-Dame St-Michel A stylish hotel, with the MAP N4 1 Quai StMusée d’Orsay and the Invalides close by. Rooms Michel, 75005 01 43 54 20 43 www.hotelnotre feature Empire-style dameparis.com No furnishings and Kenzodesigned wallpaper. Some disabled access €€ This hotel is in a great top-floor rooms have location right by the Seine views across the Seine. with magnificent views of Hôtel des Grands Notre-Dame. The bright Hommes decor by Christian Lacroix MAP N6 17 Pl du here makes up for the Panthéon, 75005 01 46 small size of the rooms. 34 19 60 www.hoteldes grandshommes.com No Radisson Blu Le Metropolitan disabled access €€ MAP A3 10 Pl de Great upper floor views of the Panthéon from this Mexico, 75016 01 56 90 40 04 www.radissonblu. intimate 30-room hotel in an 18th-century house. com €€ Five upper suites offer Rooms are a good size. striking views of the Eiffel Hôtel Régina Tower; the best has a MAP K1 2 Pl des giant bull’s-eye window. Pyramides, 75001 01 42 Lower-floor rooms have 60 31 10 www.reginagood, but less spectacular, hotel.com €€–€€€ balcony views. Across the Rue de Les Rives de NotreRivoli from the Louvre, with views of the museum Dame MAP N4 15 Quai and the Tuileries, this St-Michel, 75005 01 43 is a splendid old hotel. 54 81 16 www.rivesde The rooms are elegantly notredame.com No decorated and there’s a terrace for al fresco dining. disabled access €€ The views of Notre-Dame The bar is reminiscent from this 10-room Latin of Victorian England, •
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Quarter hotel are arguably the best in Paris. The spacious and airy rooms feature charming wooden ceiling beams.
Terrass Hôtel MAP E1 12–14 Rue Joseph de Maistre, 75018 01 46 06 72 85 www. terrass-hotel.com €€ Located in Montmartre, the Terrass has fabulous views over the city from its rooftop bar and restaurant. Rooms are stylish. For a good view, book a suite. Some rooms look out across the city’s rooftops to the Eiffel Tower. •
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Family-Friendly Hotels
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Hôtel des Arts MAP F2 7 Cité Bergère, 6 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009 01 42 46 73 30 www. hoteldesarts.fr No disabled access € This hotel is an excellent choice for families on a budget, with triple rooms and cots available. It’s tucked away in the Grand Boulevards district – home to many restaurants and shops. •
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Hôtel Elysées Flaubert MAP C1 19 Rue Rennequin, 75017 01 46 22 44 35 www.parishotelflaubert. com € This hotel, slightly out of the centre but not far from the metro, offers terrific value. The new owners have given it a smart makeover, and the garden patio is a delight. A continental buffet breakfast is free if you book directly through their website. •
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Places to Stay ❮❮ 177 Ibis Paris Bastille Faubourg Saint Antoine MAP H5 13 Rue Trousseau, 75011 01 48 05 55 55 www.ibis.com € A popular budget option, this hotel in the Ibis chain is a five-minute walk from the bustling Marché d’Aligre. Triple rooms and smartly designed duplex rooms are perfect for families.
also lays on children’s entertainment during Sunday brunch.
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Relais du Louvre
Medium-Priced Hotels Hôtel de Banville
166 Blvd Berthier, 75017 Metro Porte de MAP M2 19 Rue des Clichy 01 42 67 70 16 www.hotelbanville.fr Prêtres-St-GermainNo disabled access € l’Auxerrois, 75001 01 40 41 96 42 www.relais This wonderful 1927 dulouvre.com No mansion may be away disabled access €€ from the centre but Right by the Louvre, it blends old world this great family hotel charm with contemporary offers several family furnishings in a very suites and communicating stylish way. Once a month Hôtel Baltimore rooms, as well as a host on Thursdays, there is MAP B3 88 Bis, Ave of extras for children live music in the hall. Kléber, 75016 01 44 34 including baby kits with Several bedrooms 54 54 www.accorhotels. cots, bottle warmers have balconies. com €€ and anti-slip mats for Le Citizen Part of the Accor hotel the bathrooms. MAP H2 96 Quai de chain and located in Relais St-Germain Jenmapes, 75010 01 83 between the Trocadéro and the Arc de Triomphe, MAP L4 9 Carrefour de 62 55 50 www.lecitizen the Baltimore caters well l’Odéon, 75006 01 44 27 hotel.com €€ 07 97 www.hotel-paris- This modern eco-hotel for families, with good relais-saint-germain.com boasts views over the facilities and a friendly No disabled access chic Canal St-Martin. attitude. Rooms and €€ There are 12 rooms suites are elegant. A delightful 17th-century and suites and each Hôtel St-Jacques town-house hotel in the one has a complimentary MAP N5 35 Rue des heart of the Left Bank. minibar and iPad for use Ecoles, 75005 01 44 07 The Louvre, Musée during your stay. There’s a 45 45 www.paris-hotel- d’Orsay and Notre-Dame wide choice of restaurants stjacques.com €€ cathedral are all within nearby, too. Numerous Left Bank walking distance. The attractions are within Jardin du Luxembourg is Hôtel de l’Abbaye walking distance of this also nearby, for when the Saint–Germain MAP K5 10 Rue comfortable hotel with children simply want to Cassette, 75006 01 45 triple-bed rooms and cots let off steam and play in 44 38 11 www.hotelavailable. The Toulousethe gardens. abbayeparis.com No Lautrec Bar is excellent. Résidence NELL disabled access €€ Pullman Paris MAP E2 60 Rue Richer, This delightful hotel, in Montparnasse 75009 01 53 24 98 98 a 16th-century former MAP D6 19 Rue du www.residencenell.com convent, is set around a €€ Commandant René leafy cobbled courtyard The 17 chic, understated Mouchotte, 75014 in a quiet location near 01 44 36 44 36 www. apartments and suites St-Sulpice. It is perfect pullmanhotels.com €€ in this handsomely for exploring much of Facilities here include renovated building each the Left Bank, and is a family rooms with two have a kitchenette so haven to return to double beds. Breakfast families can stock up at afterwards. The 44 and accommodation is the grocery stores and rooms are all different, free for two under-13s bakeries nearby. Large the best being the topwhen sharing a room with families should ask for floor suites with their their parents. The hotel adjoining suites. rooftop views. • •
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For a key to hotel price categories see p172
178 ❯❯ Streetsmart Hôtel d’Angleterre MAP N5 44 Rue Jacob, 75006 01 42 60 34 72 www.hotel-dangleterre. com No air conditioning No disabled access €€ Hemingway once stayed in this hotel. Most of the rooms have high ceilings, and some are furnished with antiques. Standard rooms can be on the small side, but more spacious superior rooms can be reserved at an extra cost. •
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Hôtel Jeanne d’Arc
Hôtel le Senat MAP M5 10 Rue de Vaugirard, 75006 01 43 54 54 54 www.hotel senat.com No disabled access €€ In an excellent central location, just a few steps away from the Jardin de Luxembourg, this small modern hotel is smartly decorated in cheery colours. Some rooms can accommodate families, and the two duplex terrace suites on the top floors have fantastic panoramic views. •
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Budget Hotels Le Caulaincourt Square Hostel 2 Square Caulaincourt, 75018 01 46 06 46 06 www.caulaincourt.com No air conditioning No disabled access € Part budget hotel, part hostel, with a friendly atmosphere and easy access to the sights of Montmartre. •
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Ermitage Hôtel
MAP E1 24 Rue Lamarck, 75018 01 42 64 79 22 www. ermitagesacrecoeur.fr No credit cards No air conditioning No disabled access € Hôtel des Trois A wonderful family-run Poussins hotel in Montmartre. Some MAP E1 5 Rue Clauzel, rooms have views over 75009 01 53 32 81 81 the city, others overlook a www.les3poussins.com garden, and the furniture No disabled access €€ is antique or retro. This hotel is in the Pigalle Hôtel Notre-Dame Grand Hôtel Lévêque area but well away from Paris Maître Albert MAP C4 29 Rue Cler, the sleazier side of the MAP N5 19 Rue Maître district. Some rooms are 75007 01 47 05 49 15 Albert, 75005 01 43 26 small, but the higher up www.hotel-leveque.com No disabled access € 79 00 www.hotel-notre they are, the better the dame-charmeparis.com view of the city becomes. The only thing grand No disabled access €€ The decor is modern with about this hotel is its Situated in a quiet street name, but it remains a warm colours and each opposite Notre-Dame, favourite for budget room has a quirky close to the Latin Quarter artwork on the wall. accommodation. Rooms and the Marais, this hotel are bright and modern, La Régence combines sleek modern with revamped bathrooms. Etoile Hôtel design and high-tech MAP B2 24 Ave Carnot, Hôtel Arvor Saintfacilities with the odd Georges 75017 01 58 05 42 42 beam or stone wall. www.laregenceetoile. MAP E2 8 Rue Laferrière, Hôtel Saint-Paul com No disabled access 75009 01 48 78 60 92 MAP M5 43 Rue €€ hotelarvor.com/en/ No Monsieur-le-Prince, 75006 Very reasonably priced air conditioning No 01 43 26 98 64 www. considering its standard disabled access € hotelsaintpaulparis.fr €€ of luxury and its location A budget boutique hotel at This 17th-century building (just a short walk from the foot of Montmartre, features antique furniture, the Arc de Triomphe), the with comfortable roeoms, beamed ceilings and even Régence Etoile features many boasting views some four-poster beds. handsome public spaces across Paris. Two-room Several rooms have great and plush modern bedsuites, one in the attic and views over Paris and the one opening onto a small rooms with plasma TVs, Sorbonne. Breakfast is patio, are good for families. mini-bars and safes. 3 Rue de Jarente, 75004 Metro St-Paul 01 48 87 62 11 www.hotel jeannedarc.com No air conditioning €€ You could easily spend a whole weekend in Paris without wandering far from this well-equipped hotel, surrounded as it is by the many Marais district attractions. •
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Places to Stay ❮❮ 179 Hôtel Chopin MAP F2 46 Passage Jouffroy, 75009 01 47 70 58 10 www.hotelchopin. fr No air conditioning No disabled access € The rooms have heaps of charm – and some picture-perfect rooftop views – at this characterful, historic hotel which dates from 1846. •
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Hôtel Le Clos Médicis MAP M5 56 Rue Monsieur-le-Prince, 75006 01 43 29 10 80 www.closmedicis.com 1 room suitable for disabled guests € This was built in 1773 for the Médici family; historic features now seamlessly combine with modern design. Rooms are small, but compensations are the garden, bar, and the location, in a quiet street off boulevard St-Michel. •
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Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles MAP P6 75 Rue du Cardinal Lemoine, 75005 01 43 26 79 23 www. hotel-grandes-ecoles.com No air conditioning No disabled access € A secret hideaway in a lovely part of Paris, the three buildings that make up this 51-room hotel are set around a garden. The rooms are meant to resemble pre-war Paris and the location is perfect for exploring the Latin Quarter. •
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and cafés of the Marais, this quirky small hotel has a romantic, 19th-century charm.
Hôtel Joyce MAP E2 29 Rue la Bruyère, 75009 01 55 07 00 01 No disabled access www.astotel. com € This wittily decorated modern hotel has a fresh, informal feel and wellequipped rooms with organic toiletries. Room rates include a goodvalue buffet breakfast. •
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Hôtel Regyn’s Montmartre MAP E1 18 Pl des Abbesses, 75018 01 42 54 45 21 www.parishotels-montmartre.com No air conditioning No disabled access € Colourful decor livens up the smallish rooms in this budget hotel, well-placed in the heart of Montmartre and just minutes away on foot from Sacré-Coeur. The amenities are basic, but the stunning views of the Eiffel Tower from the upper floors are priceless. •
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Hôtel Saint-Andrédes-Arts
MAP M4 66 Rue StAndré-des-Arts, 75006 01 43 26 96 16 www. hotel-saintandredesarts. fr No air conditioning No disabled access € Hôtel de Nesle This modest hotel has MAP L4 7 Rue de Nesle, ancient exposed beams 75006 01 43 54 62 41 and stone walls, plus an www.hoteldenesleparis. enviable Left Bank com No disabled access location at bargain prices. € The rooms are tiny, but Centrally located, this for a cheap bolt-hole and atmospheric hotel, free breakfast, it can’t complete with a large be beaten. courtyard garden, is colourfully decorated with Mama Shelter 109 Rue de Bagnolet, murals and vintage 75020 Metro Gambetta wallpaper. Not all rooms 01 43 48 48 48 are en-suite. Phone www.mamashelter.com reservations only. € Hôtel de Nice Created by world-famous MAP Q3 42 bis Rue de designer Philippe Starck, Rivoli, 75004 01 42 78 this trendy hotel close to 55 29 www.hoteldenice. Père Lachaise cemetery com No air conditioning offers ultra-stylish yet No disabled access € affordable rooms. The A ten-minute walk to lively restaurant is very Notre-Dame cathedral, popular, and there’s a and even less to the shops great rooftop sundeck. •
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Hôtel du Cygne MAP N1 3–5 Rue du Cygne, 75001 01 42 60 14 16 www.hotelducygne. fr No air conditioning No disabled access €–€€ This lovely hotel is housed in a restored 17th-century building, just five minutes’ walk away from Forum Les Halles. Free Wi-Fi is available in all the rooms. •
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Hôtel Familia MAP P6 11 Rue des Ecoles, 75005 01 43 54 55 27 www.familia hotel.com € This popular budget option in the heart of the Latin Quarter is a friendly hotel within walking distance of many landmarks. The best rooms have a charming wrought-iron balcony. •
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For a key to hotel price categories see p172
180 ❯❯ General Index
General Index Balzac, Honoré de (cont.) Le Pere Goriot 44 Barge cruise 58–9 A Barnes, Djuna 68 Bars 68–9 Abadie, Paul 27 beer bars 91 Accommodation 171 late-night bars 130 apartments 73, 171 St-Germain, Latin and bed-and-breakfast 73, Luxembourg Quarters 171 130 budget tips 73 wine bars 69 hotels see Hotels Bashkirtseff, Marie 144 Air, arriving by 164 Bastien-Lepage, Jules 18 Airports 164 Bastille Market 70 Alain Ducasse au Plaza Bastille prison see Marais Athénée 67, 117 and the Bastille; Alexander III, Czar 112 Revolution Alexander III, Pope 20 Baudelaire, Charles 68, Alphand, Adolphe 57 156, 160 Ambulances 166 The Beatles 152 André, Edouard 51, 113 Beaubourg and Les Halles Anne of Austria 15 84–91 Antin, Duke of 115 beer bars 91 Apollinaire, Guillaume 131, food shops 89 148 places to eat 88, 90 Aquinas, Thomas 125 shopping 88, 89 Aragon, Louis 131 De Beauvoir, Simone 68, Arc de Triomphe 11, 131, 156, 160 30–31, 113 Bechet, Sidney 126 Arc de Triomphe du Beckett, Samuel 45, 156, Carrousel 31, 103 160 Arènes de Lutèce 136, 137 Beer bars 91 Argonaute 60 Bercy Village 59 L’Arpège 67, 123 Berges de Seine 72 Arrondissements 165 Berlioz, Hector 39, 147 Art galleries 52–3 Bernhardt, Sarah 65 Marais and the Bastille Bird markets 70, 79 99 Boats see also Museums and barge cruise 58–9 galleries Batobus 165 Art Nouveau 18 riverboat 165 Art Nouveau Museum 104, trips 170, 171 105 Bois de Boulogne 56, 156, Assemblée Nationale 121 157, 159 L’Astrance 66, 145 L’Atelier de Jöel Robuchon Bois de Vincennes 56, 59, 75, 156, 157 67 Le Bon Marché 71 Avenue des ChampsElysées 30, 111, 114, 115 Bonnard, Pierre 18 Books Avenue Montaigne 112, booksellers 82, 128 113, 114 foreign writers 45 Avril, Jane 17, 148, 152 historical novels 44–5 B literary haunts 131 Botanical Gardens see Bacon, Roger 125 Jardin des Plantes Baker, Josephine 64 Balzac, Honoré de 131, 156 Bouchard, Henri 141 Bouchardon, Edmé 15 Malson de Balzac 143 Page numbers in bold refer to Top 10 Highlights.
Bouchardon, Edme 57 Boucher, François 15, 51, 113 Boulevard St-Germain 126, 127 Boulevard St-Michel 126–7 Bourdelle, Antoine 25 Bourse du Commerce 85 Braille, Louis 35 Brancusi, Constantin 33 Braque, Georges 73, 142, 150 Man with a Guitar 33 Breton, André 68 Bridges Pont Alexandre III 55, 112 Pont de l’Alma 54, 114 Pont d’léna 54 Pont Neuf 80 Brosse, Salomon de 47 Le Brun, Charles 21 Budget tips 73 Buffon, Comte de 135 Bureaux de Change 167 Buren, Daniel 57 Buses 164 budget tips 73 disabled travellers 169 tours 170 Buttes-aux-Cailles 59
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Cabarets 152 Café de Flore 68, 126, 127, 131 Café Campana 17, 127 Café Marly 13, 68 Café de la Nouvelle Marie 69 Café de la Paix 68 Cafés 68–9 set-priced lunch 73 Caffè Sterne 69 Calder, Alexander 121 Calvin, John 125 Cameron, Julia Margaret 18 Camondo, Count Moïse de 59 Camus, Albert 45, 68, 131 Canals barge cruise 58–9 tours 170 Capet, Hugues 42 Capote, Truman 131 Car, arriving by 164 Carnet 73
General Index ❮❮ 181 Cartaud, Jean Sylvain 122 Cash dispensers (ATMs) 167 Cassatt, Mary 19 Catacombs 58 Catherine de’Medici 15, 42, 103 Cemeteries Cimetière de Montmartre 147, 150 Cimetière du Montparnasse 156, 160 Cimetière de Passy 142, 143, 144 Cimetière du Père Lachaise 73, 156, 160 Cimetière St-Vincent 149 notable graves 73, 144, 160 Le Centquatre-Paris 59 Centre Georges Pompidou 11, 32–3, 53, 86, 87 free entry 72 Stravinsky fountain 57 Chagall, Marc 73, 105, 142 Chaillot Quarter 140–45 restaurants 145 Chalgrin, Jean-François 49 Champ-de-Mars 25 Champaigne, Philippe de 85 Champs-Elysées 30, 111, 114, 115 Champs-Elysées Quarter 110–117 designer shops 116 events 115 international connections 114 places to eat 117 shopping 112, 113, 116 Charlemagne, Emperor 42 Charles V, King 12, 15, 47, 94 Charles VIII, King 36 Château de Longchamp 159 Château de Vincennes 156, 157 Le Chateaubriand 67 Chevalier, Maurice 64 Chez Jeannette 69 Chez Prune 68 Children 60–61 Disneyland Paris 60, 155 Chopin, Frédéric 73, 156, 160 Churches 48–9 Dôme Church 38, 39, 48, 55 Eglise St-Merri 86 La Madeleine 48, 105
Churches (cont.) Notre-Dame see NotreDame Panthéon 11, 34–5, 48 Sacré-Coeur 10, 26–7, 149 Sainte-Chapelle 8, 11, 36–7, 48, 81 St-Eustache 48–9, 73, 85, 87, 88 St-Germain l’Auxerrois 86 St-Louis-en-l’Ile 81 St-Médard 137 St-Sulpice 49, 125 Cierplikowski, Antoine 144 Cimetière de Montmartre 147, 150 Cimetière du Montparnasse 156, 160 Cimetière de Passy 142, 143, 144 Cimetière du Père Lachaise 73, 156, 160 Cimetière St-Vincent 149 Cinéaqua 141 Le Cirque d’Hiver 64 Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine 51, 141–2 Cité des Enfants 60 Cité des Sciences et de l’Industrie 60, 156 La Closerie des Lilas 68, 161 Clubs jazz 65 Montmartre and Pigalle 152 Coach, arriving by 164 Le Cobusier 142 Colbert, Jean-Baptiste 85, 137 Colette 156 Comédie Française 65, 104, 122 Commune see Paris Commune Communications 168 Concessions 73 Conciergerie 46, 55, 79 Consulates 167 La Coupole 45, 131 Coustou, Guillaume 12, 15 Coustou, Nicolas 21 Coysevox, Antoine 21 Le Crazy Horse Paris 64 Crime 166 Crypte Archéologique 79, 81 Currency 167, 168
Customs 166 Cycling bicycle hire 165 guided tours 170 races 74, 75
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Dali, Salvador 68, 147, 150 Espace Montmartre Salvador Dali 147, 149, 150 Dante 125 Danton, Georges Jacques 43 Dassin, Joe 113 Daumier, Honoré 18 Debray, Pierre-Charles 149 Debussy, Claude 144 La Défense 154, 155 Le Défenseur du Temps 85 Degas, Edgar 18, 19, 150 Blue Dancers 18 Young Dancer of Fourteen 16 Delacroix, Eugene 14, 18, 49, 125, 156 Denis, St 151 Dentists 166 Designer shops 112, 116 Desmarnes, Charlotte 122 Les Deux Magots 68, 126, 127, 131 Diana, Princess of Wales 54, 114 Dickens, Charles 44, 114 Diderot, Denis 35 Dietrich, Marlene 114 Dining see Cafés; Restaurants Disabled travellers 169 Disneyland Paris 60, 155 Dôme Church 38, 39, 48, 55 Donatello 14 Drag artists 152 Driving licence 167 Dufy, Raoul 142, 150 Dumas, Alexandre 147
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Eating-out see Cafés; Restaurants Ecole Militaire 120–21 Eglise de Dôme 38, 39, 48, 55 Eglise St-Merri 86 Les Egouts 119 Eiffel, Gustave 24, 25, 71 Eiffel Tower 10, 24–5, 60, 121, 143
182 ❯❯ General Index Eiffel Tower (cont.) merry-go-round 61 see also Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters Electrical appliances 167 Emanuel de las Cases, Comte 144 Embassies 167 Emergencies 166 Entertainment budget tips 73 cabarets 152 clubs 65, 152 festivals 75 jazz 65, 75, 126, 152 venues 64–5 Epstein, Jacob 160 Espace Montmartre Salvador Dali 147, 149, 150
Fosse, Charles de la 38 Foucault, Jean 35 Foucault’s Pendulum 35 Fountains 57, 86, 125, 155 Fragonard, Jean-Honoré 14, 51, 113 Franco-Prussian War 26, 27, 43 François I, King 12, 15, 125 François II, King 22 Free first Sunday of the month 72 French Revolution see Revolution French Tennis Open 75 Le Fumoir 68–9
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Les Halles see Beaubourg and Les Halles Hals, Frans 14 Hardouin-Mansart, Jules 104 Haussmann, Baron 43, 57, 119, 126, 159 Health 166, 167 Hemingway, Ernest 45, 68, 131, 177 Henri II, King 15, 42 Henri IV (Henry of Navarre), King 22, 42, 46, 79, 86 Louvre 15, 55 Place Dauphine 80 Place des Vosges 92, 93 G Pont Neuf 80 Square du Vert-Galant 81 Gabriel, Jacques-Ange 120 Henry VI, King of England Galeries Lafayette 70 F 22 Galleries see Art galleries; Hérouard, Jean 135 Museums and galleries Farman, Henri 144 Hippodrome de Gardens see Parks and Fauré, Gabriel 144 Longchamp 159 gardens Fernandel 144 Historic buildings 46–7 Festival d’Automne à Paris Garnier, Charles 68, 104, Historical events 42–3 173 75 Historical novels 44–5 Gauguin, Paul 18, 157 Festival de Cinéma en Hitler, Adolf 43 La Belle Angèle 17 Plein Air 72 Horse-racing 75, 159 De Gaulle, Charles 22, 23, Festivals and events 74–5 Hospitals 166 39, 86, 115 Fête du Cinéma 74 Hôtel Dieu 46 Gehry, Frank 53, 156 Fête de la Musique 74 Hôtel des Invalides 11, Geneviève, Ste 34, 35, 42, Fêtes des Vendanges 75 38–9, 119, 121, 142 125 Film 16, 68, 72, 73, 74 Hôtel de Ville 46, 61, 72 Fitzgerald, F. Scott 45, 131 Géode 60, 156 Hotels 172–9 Géricault, Théodore Flaubert, Gustave 44 boutique hotels 172 The Raft of the Medusa 13 Flower markets 70, 79, 81 budget hotels 178–9 Gide, André 131 Foch, Marshal Ferdinand budget tips 73 Gill, André 148 39, 142 family-friendly hotels Goujon, Jean 57, 86 Folies-Bergère 64 176–7 Fondation Louis Vuitton 53, Gourmet tours 170–71 great locations 174–5 Grand Palais 56, 111 156, 159 luxury hotels 172–3 Fontaine des Innocents 57, Grande Arche 31, 155 medium-priced hotels Grande Galerie de 86, 87 177–8 l’Evolution 60, 135 Fontenay, Aubert de 98 romantic hotels 174 Grande Synagogue de la Food and drink see Bars; rooms with a view 175–6 Victoire 49 Cafés; Food shops; Hugo, Victor 23, 49, 136 Grandes Eaux Nocturnes Restaurants The Hunchback of Notre74 Food shops Dame 23, 44 Graves 73, 144, 160 Beaubourg and Les Maison de Victor Hugo see also Cemeteries Halles 89 95 Greater Paris 154–61 picnic providers 132 Les Misérables specialist food shops 129 Gris, Juan 150 Gros, Antoine 31 St-Germain, Latin and 44, 95 Luxembourg Quarters Guided tours 170–71 tomb 35 Guillotine 80 129, 132 I Guillotine, Dr Joseph 80 Tuileries and Opéra Guimard, Hector 49, Quarters 106 Ignatius Loyola, St 125 Football 75, 115 Ile de la Cité and Ile 149 Forum des Halles 85 St-Louis 78–83 Guimet, Emile 143
General Index ❮❮ 183 Lalique, René-Jules 18 Laloux, Victor 55 Lang, Jack 115 Au Lapin Agile 148, 150, 152 Late-night bars 130 Latin Quarter see St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters Leck, Bart van der 33 Compositie n°3 33 Lefèbvre, Hippolyte 27 Left Bank 126 see also St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters Legentil, Alexandre 26 J Léger, Fernand 142 Jacquemart, Nélie 51, 113 Leonardo da Vinci 14, 15 Mona Lisa 12, 15 Jardin d’Acclimatation 61, Leroux, Gaston 105 159 Jardin du Luxembourg 56, Lescot, Pierre 86 Liberty Flame 54 61, 125 The Lido 64 Jardin du Palais-Royal 57 Listings magazines 169 Jardin des Plantes 56, 61, Literature see Books 135, 137, 138 Jardin des Plantes Quarter Longines Masters 75 Lost property 166, 167 134–9 Louis IX, King (St Louis) 27, restaurants 139 81 Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil Notre-Dame 23 159 Palais de Justice 47 Jardin des Tuileries 56, 61, Sainte-Chapelle 11, 36, 103, 104, 105, 108–9 37 Jardins du Trocadéro 54, Louis, Victor 104 61, 142 Louis XI, King 37 Jazz 152 Louis XIII, King 21, 47, 135 clubs 65 Louvre 15, 55 festival 75 Notre-Dame 21 Left Bank 126 Louis XIV, King Jean-François Piège – Le Louvre 12, 13, 15 Grand Restaurant 33 Notre-Dame 21 Jeu de Paume 53, 103 Palais Bourbon 38 Jewish Quarter 94 Palais Royal 47 Joan of Arc 22, 23, 27 Place Vendôme 104 Josephine, Empress 22, Versailles 46, 155, 158 113 Louis XV, King 34, 47, 103, Les Journées du 120 Patrimoine 73 Louis XVI, King 104 Joyce, James 45, 131 execution 43, 103 Le Jules Verne 66, 121, Versailles 46 123, 143 Louvre museum see K Musée du Louvre Luxembourg Quarter see Kandinsky, Vasily 33 St-Germain, Latin and Avec l’arc noir 33 Luxembourg Quarters Klimt, Gustav 18 Kundera, Milan 45 Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis (cont.) places to eat 83 shopping 82 Impressionists 18, 19, 127 Institut du Monde Arabe 135, 137 Insurance 166 Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters 118–23 Hôtel des Invalides 11, 38–9, 119, 121, 142 mansions 122 places to eat 123 see also Eiffel Tower
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Maar, Dora 68 MacLeish, Archibald 68 La Madeleine 48, 105
Madonna 114 Maillol, Aristide 56, 103 Musée Maillol 53, 127 Maison de Balzac 143 Maison Européenne de la Photographie 53, 95 Maison de Victor Hugo 95 Manet, Edouard 18, 19, 150 Le Dejeuner sur l’herbe 16 grave 144 Nana 45 Olympia 16 On the Beach 19 Mansart, François 98 Mansions Invalides and Eiffel Tower Quarters 122 Marais and the Bastille 98 Manufacture des Gobelins 137 Marais and the Bastille 47, 49, 92–101 Bastille Market 70 Bastille prison 42, 43, 44, 94 fashion and accessory shops 96 fashionable hang-outs 100 galleries 99 mansions 98 places to eat 101 specialist shops 97 Marat, Jean-Paul 43 Marathon 75 Marceau, General 31 Marché d’Aligre 71 Marché aux Fleurs – Reine Elisabeth II 70, 79, 81 Marché aux Oiseaux 70 Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen 71 Marguerite de Valois 22, 86, 98 Marie-Antoinette, Queen Conciergerie 46, 79 execution 43, 103 Versailles 46, 158 Marie de Médicis 47, 57, 115 Markets 70–71, 170 Marly Horses 12, 14 Marmottan, Paul 157 La Marseillaise 112 Mary Stuart 22 Mason, Raymond 88 Mata Hari 114 Matisse, Henri 18
184 ❯❯ General Index Musée du Louvre 10, Maupassant, Guy de 156, 12–15, 50, 55 160 free entry 72, 73 Bel-Ami 44 little-visited Louvre 58 Mauriac, François 131 planning your visit 105 Médard, St 137 Pyramid 7, 12, 40 Médici Fountain 57 Museums and galleries Medium-priced hotels 50–51 177–8 Arc de Triomphe 30 Ménagerie 135 art galleries 52–3, 99 Merry-go-rounds 61 Art Nouveau Museum Merson, Luc Olivier 26 104, 105 Michelangelo, Slaves 12, 14 budget tips 73 Miller, Henry 45, 131 Cité de l’Architecture et Mirbeau, Octave 144 du Patrimoine 51, 141–2 Miró, Joan 121 Espace Montmartre Mitford, Nancy 45 Salvador Dali 147, 149, Modigliani, Amedeo 52, 73, 150 142, 150 Fondation Louis Vuitton Mois de la Photo 75 53, 156, 159 Le Moiturier, Antoine 14 free entry 72 Molière 57, 93, 156 free first Sunday of the Mona Lisa 12, 15 month 72 Monastier, Jacques 85 Grand Palais 56, 111 Monet, Claude 19 Grande Galerie de Blue Waterlilies 16 l’Evolution 60, 135 Cathedral at Rouen 19 Jeu de Paume 53, 103 Musée de l’Orangerie 52, Maison de Balzac 143 103 Maison Européenne de Musée Marmottanla Photographie 53, 95 Claude Monet 19, 157 Maison de Victor Musée d’Orsay 18 Money 167, 168 Hugo 95 Montaigne, Avenue 112, 113 Musée de l’Armée 38, Montmartre and Pigalle 7, 119, 121 61, 146–53 Musée d’Art Moderne artists 150 see Centre Georges cabarets and clubs 152 Pompidou escape the crowds 151 Musée d’Art Moderne de places to eat 153 la Ville de Paris 73, 142 Sacré-Coeur 10, 26–7, 149 Musée des Arts vineyards 149 Décoratifs 50, 104 Montparnasse 156 Musée des Arts et Moreau, Gustave 151 Métiers 51 Morisot, Berthe 18, 144 Musée des Arts Forains Morrison, Jim 73, 114, 156, 61 160 Musée des Beaux Arts Mosquée de Paris 49, 136, de la Ville de Paris 72 137 Musée Carnavalet 50, 72, Moulin de la Galette 149 94 Moulin Rouge 64–5, 148, Musée de la Chasse et 149, 152 de la Nature 94 Mozart, Wolfgang Musée Cognacq-Jay 51, 93 Amadeus 98 Musée de l’Erotisme 148, Munch, Edvard 18 149 Musée d’Orsay 6, 10, Musée Gustave Moreau 16–19, 55, 127 151 bookshop 128 Musée Jacquemartfree entry 72 André 51, 113 Toulouse-Lautrec display Musée du Louvre see 64, 148 Musée du Louvre
Museums and galleries (cont.) Musée de la Magie et des Automates 60 Musée Maillol 53, 127 Musée de la Marine 141, 143 Musée MarmottanClaude Monet 19, 157 Musée de la Mode et du Textile 50, 104 Musée des Monuments Français 51 Musée de Montmartre 147, 149 Musée National d’Art Moderns 53 Musée National des Arts Asiatiques-Guimet 143 Musée National du Moyen Age 50, 126 Musée Nissim de Camondo 59 Musée de l’Orangerie 52, 103 Musée de l’Ordre de la Libération 39, 119 Musée d’Orsay see Musée d’Orsay Musée Picasso 52, 93 Musée des Plans-Reliefs 39, 119 Musée de la Poupée 86 Musée du quai Branly 50, 120, 121 Musée Rodin 52, 72, 120, 121, 122 Musée de la Vie Romantique 151 Musée du Vin 142 Muséum National d’Histoire Naturelle 50, 135, 137 museum pass 73 opening hours 168 Palais de la Découverte 112 Palais de Tokyo 53 Parc de la Villette 60, 61, 72, 156 Pinacothèque de Paris 58 Music festivals 75 jazz 65, 75, 126, 152
N
Nabis Movement 18 Napoleon I, Emperor 122, 141, 144 Arc de Triomphe 11, 30, 31
General Index ❮❮ 185 Napoleon I, Emperor (cont.) Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel 31, 103 Champs-Elysées 111, 113 Châtelet Fountain 57 coronation 43 Ecole Miiitaire 120 Eglise du Dôme 48 Musée du Louvre 12 Musée de la Marine 141 Notre-Dame 22, 23 Palais de l’Elysée 47 Place Vendôme 104 Rue de Rivoli 103 La Sorbonne 125 tomb 11, 38, 48, 121 Napoleon III, Emperor 43, 113 Franco-Prussian War 27 Opéra National de Paris Garnier 104 Palais de l’Elysée 113 Naturalism 18 Newspapers 168 Nicholas, Albert 126 Nicolas II, Czar 12 Nijinsky, Vaslav 147 Nin, Anaïs 45 North Africa 136 Le Nôtre, Andre 103, 111, 115 Notre-Dame 10, 20–23, 55, 81 organ and choir recitals 73 views 28–9, 76–7 Nouvel, Jean 50, 118, 120, 135 Novels 44–5 Nuit Blanche 74
O
Off the beaten track 58–9 Offenbach, Jacques 147 Opening hours 168 Opéra National de Paris Bastille 65 Opéra National de Paris Garnier 62–3, 64, 104–5 Opéra Quarter see Tuileries and Opéra Quarters L’Orangerie 52, 103 Organ and Choir recitals 73 Orléans, dukes of 47, 104 Orwell, George 45
P
Palais Bourbon 38 Palais de Chaillot 56, 141, 143 Palais de la Découverte 112 Palais de l’Elysée 47, 113 Palais de Justice 47, 80 Palais de Tokyo 53 Palais du Luxembourg 47 Palais-Royal 47, 57, 104 Panthéon 11, 34–5, 48 Parc Asterix 60 Parc de Bagatelle 159 Parc des Buttes Chaumont 57, 61 Parc Floral de Paris 59 Parc Monceau 56–7, 61, 157 Parc Montsouris 57 Parc de la Villette 60, 61, 72, 156 Paris Commune 43, 46, 94, 104 Paris Jazz Festival 75 Paris Marathon 75 Paris Plages 75 Parisii tribe 42 Parking 164 Parks and gardens 56–7 Bois de Boulogne 56, 156, 157, 159 Bois de Vincennes 56, 59, 75, 156, 157 Champ-de-Mars 25 guided tours 170 Jardin du Luxembourg 56, 61, 125 Jardin du Palais-Royal 57 Jardin des Plantes 56, 61, 135, 137, 138 Jardin des Serres d’Auteuil 159 Jardin des Tuileries 56, 61, 103, 105 Jardins du Trocadéro 54, 61, 142 Parc de Bagatelle 159 Parc des Buttes Chaumont 57, 61 Parc Floral de Paris 59 Parc Monceau 56–7, 61, 157 Parc Montsouris 57 Pré Catelan 159 Shakespeare Garden 159 Square du Vert-Galant 81 Versailles 57, 158 The Passages 94 Passports 166
Pei, I.M. 12 Pepin the Short 42 Père Lachaise cemetery 73, 156, 160 Perrault, Claude 13 Personal security 166 Pétanque 57, 121 Petit Palais 56, 72, 110, 111 Pharmacies 166 Philip IV, King (Philip the Fair) 22, 79 Philippe-Auguste, King 12 Phone numbers 168 Piaf, Edith 156, 160 Piano, Renzo 32 Picabia, Francis 142 Picasso, Pablo 58, 73, 142, 150 Au Lapin Agile 148, 152 Les Deux Magots 68 Musée de l’Orangerie 52 Musée Maillol 127 Musée Picasso 52, 93 Rue de Buci 71 UNESCO headquarters 121 Picnic providers 132 Pierre Gagnaire 67 Pigalle see Montmartre and Pigalle Pigeon, Charles 160 Pinacothèque de Paris 58 Pissarro, Camille 19, 175 Pius VII, Pope 22 Place des Abbesses 149 Place de la Bastille 94, 95 Place de la Concorde 103, 105, 120 Place de la Contrescarpe 136, 137 Place Dauphine 80 Place de la Madeleine 70–71, 73, 105 Place du Tertre 7, 147, 149 Place Vendôme 104 Place des Vosges 92, 93, 95 Places to eat see Cafés; Restaurants Places of worship 48–9 Point Zéro 78 Police 166 Pommier, Albert 141 Pompadour, Madame de 47, 120 Pompidou Centre see Centre Georges Pompidou Pompidou, Georges 86 Pont Alexandre III 55, 112 Pont-Aven School 18
186 ❯❯ General Index Restaurants (cont.) Pont de l’Alma 54, 114 St-Germain, Latin and Pont d’Iéna 54 Luxembourg Quarters Pont Neuf 80 133 Post-Impressionists 18 Tuileries and Opéra Post offices 168 Quarters 107 Pré Catelan 159 Revolution 42, 43, 47, 80, Prévert, Jacques 131 94 Au Printemps 70 bicentennial 115 Prix de Diane Longines 75 Conciergerie 46, 55, 79 Le Procope 131 Council of the Five Promenade Plantée 58, 156 Hundred 121 Proust, Marcel 114, 160 The Marseillaise 112 A la Recherche du Temps Musée Carnavalet 50 Perdu 44, 114 Notre-Dame 23 Puget, Pierre 14 novels 44 Puvis de Chavannes, Pierre Panthéon 34, 48 34 La Sorbonne 125 Q storming of the Bastille 42, 43, 94 Qatar Prix de l’Arc de Richelieu, Cardinal 47, 93 Triomphe 75, 159 Riverfront sights 54–5 Quai de la Tournelle 127 Robespierre, Maximilien R de 43 Rodin, Auguste 18, 122 Rabelais, François 136 Musée Rodin 52, 72, 120, Ravaillac, François 46, 79 121, 122 Rembrandt 14, 51, 58 Renoir, Pierre-Auguste 18, Rogers, Richard 32 Rolling Stones 114 19, 147, 150 Au Lapin Agile 148, 150, Romans 42, 79, 136, 151 Romanticism 18 152 Roosevelt, Franklin D. 114 Dancing at the Moulin de Rouget de Lisle, Claude la Galette 17, 149 Joseph 112 Musée de l’Orangerie 52 Rousseau, Jean-Jacques Musée Marmottan94 Claude Monet 157 Rue Cler 120 Musée d’Orsay 18 Rue de Buci Market 71, Restaurants 66–7, 170 132 Beaubourg and Les Rue de Lappe 95 Halles 88, 90 Rue de Rivoli 103, 105 budget tips 73 Rue du Faubourg-StChaillot Quarter 145 Honoré 112 Champs-Elysées Quarter Rue Montorgueil 87, 88 117 Rue Mouffetard 71, 134, fine dining 66–7 136, 137 gourmet tours 170–71 Rugby 75 Greater Paris 161 Ile de la Cité and Ile S St-Louis 83 Invalides and Eiffel Sacré-Coeur 10, 26–7, Tower Quarters 123 149 Jardin des Plantes Safety 166 Quarter 139 Sagan, Françoise 131 Marais and the Bastille St Bartholomew’s Day 101 Massacre 42, 86 Montmartre and Pigalle Saint-Phalle, Niki de 33 153 Sainte-Chapelle 8, 11, picnic providers 132 36–7, 48, 81 set-priced lunch St-Eustache 48–9, 73, 85, 87, 88 73
St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters 125–33 booksellers 128 late-night bars 130 literary haunts 131 picnic providers 132 places to eat 133 shopping 128, 129, 132 specialist food shops 129 St-Germain l’Auxerrois 86 St-Louis-en-l’Ile 81 St-Médard 137 St-Sulpice 49, 125 Sand, George 151 Santos-Dumont, Alberto 114 Sartre, Jean-Paul 68, 131, 156, 160 Sax, Adolphe 112 Security 166 Septime 66 Sewers 119 Shakespeare and Company 45, 127, 128, 131 Shakespeare Garden 159 Shopping 70–71, 170 Beaubourg and Les Halles 88, 89 booksellers 82, 128 Champs-Elysées Quarter 112, 113, 116 designer shops 112, 116 fashion and accessory shops 96 food shops 89, 106, 129 guides 171 Ile de la Cité and Ile St-Louis 82 late-night shopping 168 Marais and the Bastille 96–7 markets 70–71 opening hours 168 specialist shops 97, 129 St-Germain, Latin and Luxembourg Quarters 128, 129, 132 Tuileries and Opéra Quarters 106 Sickert, Walter 19 Sisley, Alfred 19 Six Nations Rugby 75 La Sorbonne 47, 125 Soufflot, Jacques-Germain 115 Sports cycling 74, 75 events 75 football 75, 115 horse-racing 75, 159
General Index ❮❮ 187 Sports (cont.) marathon 75 rubgy 75 tennis 75 Square Suzanne Buisson 151 Square du Vert-Galant 81 Steinbeck, John 114 Stendhal 147 Stravinsky, Igor 32, 57 Sully, Bishop Maurice de 20 Sully, Duc de 98 Symbolism 18 Synagogues 49
T
Taillevent 66, 117 Taxis 165 disabled travellers 169 Telephones 168 Television 168 Tennis 75 Terroir, Alphonse 34 Théâtre du Châtelet 65 Théâtre de la Ville 65 Tickets and travel cards 165 Tiepolo, Giovanni Battista 113 Time difference 167 Tinguely, Jean 32 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier 30 Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri de 18, 150 Jane Avril Dancing 17 Moulin Rouge 64, 148 Musée d’Orsay 64, 148 Tour de France 74, 75 Tour, Georges de la 14 Tour St-Jacques 87 Tourist information 168–9 Tours 170–71 Trains arriving by train 164 Eurostar 164 metro 164, 165, 169 Orlyval 164 RER trains 164, 165 tickets 165 Travel 164–5 airports 164 arriving in Paris 164 budget tips 73 coach 164 disabled travellers 169 on foot 165 insurance 166
Travel (cont.) metro 164, 165, 169 tickets 165 travel cards 165 travel safety advice 166 trips and tours 170–71 see also Boats; Buses; Cycling; Trains Travel Safety Advice 166 Treaty of Versailles 157, 158 Truffaut, François 147 Tuileries and Opéra Quarters 102–7 food shops 106 Jardin des Tuileries 56, 61, 103, 104, 105, 108–9 places to eat 107 Tuileries Palace 43, 104
U
Weather 168 Websites 168–9 Welles, Orson 16 Whistler, James 18, 19 Wilde, Oscar 68, 73, 156, 160 Wine bars 69 Winged Victory of Samothrace 12 Women travellers 166 World War II 68 Boulevard St-Michel 127 Jewish citizens 59, 94 Liberation 23, 43, 115 Liberty Flame 54 Order of Liberation 39 Palais Bourbon 121 the Resistance 43, 54, 151 Wren, Sir Christopher 34 Writers 44–5 literary haunts 131
V
Z
Uccello, Paolo 113 Y UNESCO 121 Utrillo, Maurice 149, 150, 151 Youth savings 73 Valadon, Suzanne 150 Van Gogh, Vincent 19, 149, 150 Bedroom at Arles 16–17 Musée d’Orsay 16, 18 Vanverbergh, François 114 Le Vau, Louis 81 Vauban, Marshal 39 Venus de Milo 12 Verlaine, Paul 68, 148, 152 Vermeer, Jan 14 The Lacemaker 13 Versailles 31, 46, 155, 157 fountains 57, 155 furnishings 137 gardens 57, 158 Grandes Eaux Nocturnes 74 menagerie 135 Petit Trianon 120, 158 Revolution 43 sights 158 Vierny, Dina 53, 127 Vineyards 149 Viollet-le-Duc, Eugène 20, 21, 23 Visas 166 Voltaire 11, 35, 94, 131
W
Walking 165 guided tours 170 Watteau, Jean 14
Zola, Emile 84, 131 L’Assommoir 45 Nana 45 Thérèse Raquin 45 tomb 34 Zoos 56, 138, 156, 159 Ménagerie 135 Zurbarán, Francisco de 137
188 ❯❯ Acknowledgments
Acknowledgments Author
Donna Dailey and Mike Gerrard are awardwinning journalists, specializing in travel, food and wine and have written more than 30 guidebooks between them. Mike Gerrard’s Time for Food guide to Paris for Thomas Cook won the Benjamin Franklin Award for the best new guidebook in 2001. Their work has appeared in international publications such as the Times, Washington Post and Global Adventure. Additional contributors Ruth Reisenberger, M Astella Saw Publishing Director Georgina Dee Publisher Vivien Antwi Design Director Phil Ormerod Editorial Michelle Crane, Rachel Fox, Fay Franklin, Fíodhna Ní Ghríofa, Freddie Marriage, Sally Schafer, Christine Stroyan Design Tessa Bindloss, Marisa Renzullo Picture Research Phoebe Lowndes, Susie Peachey, Ellen Root, Oran Tarjan Cartography Mohammad Hassan, Suresh Kumar, Casper Morris, Simonetta Giori DTP Jason Little, George Nimmo Production Nancy-Jane Maun Factchecker Bryan Pirolli Proofreader Kate Berens Indexer Patricia Baker Illustrator Chris Orr & Associates Commissioned Photography Max Alexander, Neil Lukas, Eric Meacher, Rough Guides/ Lydia Evans, Rough Guides/James McConnachie, Jules Selmes, Valerio Vincenzo, Peter Wilson. Revisions Anna Brooke, Sumita Khatwani, Beverly Smart, Hollie Teague, Richa Verma First edition created by Book Creation Services Ltd, London
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Dreamstime.com: Alfonsodetomas 78cla; Andersastphoto 10br; Andrey Anisimov 85tr; Aprescindere 57tr; Ardazi 70tl; Baghitsha 48tr; Bargotiphotography 6cl; Christian Bertrand 147tr; Mikhail Blajenov 48bl; Bukki88/SOCIETE Picture Credits D’EXPLOITATION DE LA TOUR EIFFEL/SETE/ The publisher would like to thank the Copyright Tour Eiffel-illuminations Pierre following for their kind permission to Bideau 24cl; Cecoffman 56br; Mircea Costina reproduce their photographs: 56t; Dabldy 118cla; Matthew Dixon 54t; Dennis (Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; Dolkens 4t, 12cra; Chris Dorney 125tr; Viorel f-far; l-left; r-right; t-top) Dudau 33bl, 64b; Alexandre Fagundes De 4Corners: SIME/Stefano Brozzi 4b. Fagundes 98tl; Flynt 108-9; freephoton 138br; Abbey Bookshop: Picasa 128cb. Goghy73 46bl; Nataliya Hora 61tr; Infomods 104-5b; Javarman 36clb; Javierjmt 75tr; Pavel Alamy Images: Bildarchiv Monheim GmbH 21tl;Godong 20bc; Glenn Harper 79tr; Hemis Kavalenkau 142br; Ladiras81 146tl; Lornet 110cla; Meunierd 53tl, 86bl; Miketanct 10bl; 94tr; 135bl, hemis.fr / Pascal Ducept 87bl; Moharrim 4cr; Monticello 7tr; Juan Moyano hemis.fr/Bertrand Gardel 59cla;hemis.fr/ Gilles Rigoulet 137tl; hemis.fr /Sylvain Sonnet 4cla, 7cr; Nikonaft 3tr, 162-3; Ohmaymay 62-3; 59br; Heritage Image Partnership Ltd 144br; Andrey Omelyanchuk 2tl, 8-9; Francisco Javier Gil Oreja 4crb, 11ca, 32clb; Anna Penigina Peter Horree 33tl; John Kellerman 38br, 112tl; Lautaro 127cla; Eddie Linssen/ADAGP, 158bl; Janusz Pieńkowski 73clb; Pixattitude 121cla; ProductionPerig 20-1; Evgeny Prokofyev Paris and DACS, London 2015 84tr;
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Cover
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Printed and bound in China First American Edition, 2002 Published in the United States by DK Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Copyright 2002, 2016 © Dorling Kindersley Limited A Penguin Random House Company 16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Reprinted with revisions 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2016 (twice) All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under the copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission of the copyright owner. Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited. A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. ISSN 1479-344X ISBN 978-1-4654-4554-4
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190 ❯❯ Top 10 Paris
Phrase Book In an Emergency Help! Au secours! oh sekoor Stop! Arrêtez! aret-ay Call… Appelez… apuh-lay …a doctor! …un médecin! uñ medsañ …an …une oon ambulance! ambulance! oñboo-loñs …the police! …la police! lah poh-lees …the fire …les leh poñ-peeyay brigade! pompiers!
Communication Essentials Yes/No Please Thank you Excuse me
Oui/Non S’il vous plaît Merci Excusez-moi
Hello Goodbye Good night What? When? Why? Where?
Bonjour Au revoir Bonsoir Quel, quelle? Quand? Pourquoi? Où?
wee/noñ seel voo play mer-see exkoo-zay mwah boñzhoor oh ruh-vwar boñ-swar kel, kel koñ poor-kwah oo
I would like … Je voudrais… zhuh voo-dray Do you take Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo credit cards? acceptez les zaksept-ay leh cartes de crédit? kart duh krehdee This one. Celui-ci. suhl-wee-see That one. Celui-là. suhl-wee-lah expensive cher shehr cheap pas cher, pah shehr, bon marché, boñ mar-shay size, clothes la taille tye size, shoes la pointure pwañ-tur
Types of Shop antique shop bakery bank bookshop cake shop cheese shop chemist department store delicatessen gift shop
Useful Phrases
greengrocer
Comment komallez-vous? moñ talay voo Very well, Très bien, treh byañ Pleased to Enchanté de oñshoñ-tay duh meet you. faire votre fehr votr konconnaissance. ay-sans Where is/are…? Où est/sont…? oo ay/soñ Which Quelle est la kel ay lah deerway to..? direction pour..? ek-syoñ poor Do you speak Parlez-vous par-lay voo English? anglais? oñg-lay I don’t Je ne compr- zhuh nuh komunderstand. ends pas. proñ pah I’m sorry. Excusez-moi. exkoo-zay mwah
grocery market newsagent
How are you?
Useful Words big small hot cold good bad open closed left right entrance exit toilet
grand petit chaud froid bon mauvais ouvert fermé gauche droit l’entrée la sortie les toilettes
groñ puh-tee show frwah boñ moh-veh oo-ver fer-meh gohsh drwah l’on-tray sor-tee twah-let
Shopping How much is it? Ça fait combien?sa fay kom-byañ What time… A quelle heure… ah kel urr …do you open? …êtes-vous et-voo oo-ver ouvert? …do you close? …êtes-vous et-voo fer-may fermé? Do you have?
Est-ce que vous es-kuh voo avez? zavay
post office supermarket tobacconist travel agent
le magasin d’antiquités la boulangerie la banque la librairie la pâtisserie la fromagerie la pharmacie le grand magasin la charcuterie le magasin de cadeaux le marchand de légumes l’alimentation le marché le magasin de journaux la poste, le bureau de poste, le PTT le supermarché le tabac l’agence de voyages
maga-zañ d’oñteekee-tay booloñ-zhuree boñk lee-brehree patee-sree fromazh-ree farmah-see groñ maga-zañ sharkoot-ree maga-zañ duh kadoh mar-shoñ duh lay-goom alee-moñtasyoñ marsh-ay maga-zañ duh zhoor-no pohst, booroh duh pohst, peh-teh-teh soo pehrmarshay tabah l’azhoñs duh vwayazh
Sightseeing art gallery bus station cathedral church garden library museum railway station tourist office town hall
la galerie d’art la gare routière la cathédrale l’église le jardin la bibliothèque le musée la gare (SNCF) l’office du tourisme l’hôtel de ville
galer-ree dart gahr roo-tee-yehr katay-dral l’aygleez zhar-dañ beebleeo-tek moo-zay gahr (es-en-say-ef) ohfees doo tooreesm l’ohtel duh veel
Staying in a Hotel Do you have a Est-ce que vous es-kuh voovacant room? avez une zavay oon chambre? shambr I have a J’ai fait une zhay fay oon reservation. réservation. rayzehrva-syoñ single room la chambre à shambr ah une personne oon pehr-son twin room la chambre à shambr ah deux lits duh lee room with a la chambre avec shambr avek bath, shower salle de bains, sal duh bañ, une douche oon doosh
Phrase Book ❮❮ 191 double room, with a double bed
la chambre à shambr ah deux personnes, duh pehr-son avec un grand avek un gronñ lit lee
onions orange juice pepper pork potatoes
Avez-vous une avay-voo oon table libre? tahbl duh leebr Je voudrais zhuh voo-dray réserver rayzehr-vay une table. oon tahbl L’addition s’il l’adee-syoñ seel vous plaît. voo play Madame, mah-dam, Mademoiselle/ mahMonsieur demwahzel/ muh-syuh
rice roast salt sausage seafood snails soup
Eating Out Have you got a table? I want to reserve a table. The bill please. Waitress/ waiter
le menu, la carte men-oo, kart le menu à men-oo ah prix fixe pree feeks le couvert koo-vehr la carte des vins kart-deh vañ le verre vehr la bouteille boo-tay le couteau koo-toh la fourchette for-shet la cuillère kwee-yehr le petit puh-tee déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay lunch le déjeuner deh-zhuh-nay dinner le dîner dee-nay main course le plat principal plah prañsee-pal starter, first l’entrée, le hors l’oñ-tray, course d’oeuvre or-duhvr dish of the day le plat du jour plah doo zhoor wine bar le bar à vin bar ah vañ café le café ka-fay menu fixed-price menu cover charge wine list glass bottle knife fork spoon breakfast
Menu Decoder baked cuit au four beef le boeuf beer la bière boiled bouilli bread le pain butter le beurre cake le gâteau cheese le fromage chicken le poulet chips les frites chocolate le chocolat coffee le café dessert le dessert duck le canard egg l’oeuf fish le poisson fresh fruit le fruit frais garlic l’ail grilled grillé ham le jambon ice, ice cream la glace lamb l’agneau lemon le citron fresh lemon juice le citron pressé meat la viande milk le lait mineral water l’eau minérale oil l’huile
kweet oh foor buhf bee-yehr boo-yee pan burr gah-toh from-azh poo-lay freet shoko-lah kah-fay deh-ser kanar l’uf pwah-ssoñ frwee freh l’eye gree-yay zhoñ-boñ glas l’anyoh see-troñ see-troñ presseh vee-yand leh l’oh meeney-ral l’weel
steak sugar tea vegetables vinegar water red wine white wine
les oignons leh zonyoñ l’orange pressée l’oroñzh presseh le poivre pwavr le porc por les pommes pom duh tehr de terre le riz ree rôti row-tee le sel sel la saucisse sohsees les fruits de mer frwee duh mer les escargots leh zes-kar-goh la soupe, soop, le potage poh-tazh le bifteck, le steak beef-tek, stek le sucre sookr le thé tay les légumes lay-goom le vinaigre veenaygr l’eau l’oh le vin rouge vañ roozh le vin blanc vañ bloñ
Numbers 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 1,000
zéro zeh-roh un, une uñ, oon deux duh trois trwah quatre katr cinq sañk six sees sept set huit weet neuf nerf dix dees onze oñz douze dooz treize trehz quatorze katorz quinze kañz seize sehz dix-sept dees-set dix-huit dees-weet dix-neuf dees-nerf vingt vañ trente tront quarante karoñt cinquante sañkoñt soixante swasoñt soixante-dix swasoñt-dees quatre-vingts katr-vañ quatre-vingt-dix katr-vañ-dees cent soñ mille meel
Time one minute one hour half an hour one day Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sunday
une minute oon mee-noot une heure oon urr une demi-heure urr duh-me urr un jour urr zhorr lundi luñ-dee mardi mar-dee mercredi mehrkruh-dee jeudi zhuh-dee vendredi voñdruh-dee samedi sam-dee dimanche dee-moñsh
192 ❯❯ Street Index
Street Index Archives, Rue des Q2 Assas, Rue d’ K6 Austerlitz, Quai d’ H6 B.-Franklin, Rue B4 Bac, Rue du J3 Bastille, Boulevard de la H5 Bastille, Place de la H5 Beaubourg, Rue P1 Beaumarchais, Boulevard H4 Berger, Rue N2 Bonaparte, Rue L3 Breteuil, Avenue de D5 Buci, Rue de L4 Buffon, Rue G6 Capucines, Boulevard des E3 Cardinal Lemoine, Rue du P6 Carnot, Avenue B2 Celestins, Quai des Q4 Champs Elysées, Avenue des C3 Charles De Gaulle, Avenue A2 Charonne, Rue de H5 Chemin Vert, Rue du H4 Cherche Midi, Rue du K5 Cité, Rue de la N4 Cler, Rue C4 Clery, Rue de F3 Clichy, Boulevard de E1 Concorde, Place de la D3 Contrescarpe, Place de la F6 Coquillere, Rue M1 Courcelles, Rue de C2 Croix des Petits Champs, Rue M1 Cuvier, Rue G6 Dante, Rue N5 Dauphine, Place M3 Deux Ponts, Rue des Q5 Dupin, Rue J5 Duquesne, Avenue C5 Durantin, Rue E1 Ecole de Medicine, Rue de l’ M5 Ecoles, Rue des N5 Ecouffes, Rue des Q3 Edgar Quinet, Boulevard E6 Faubourg du Temple, Rue du H3 Faubourg Montmartre, Rue du F2 Faubourg St Denis, Rue du G2 Faubourg St Honoré, Rue du D3 Faubourg St Martin, Rue du G2
Ferronnerie, Rue de la N2 Foch, Avenue A2 Fontaine, Rue E1 Francois Miron, Rue P3 Francs Bourgeois, Rue des Q2 Franklin-D.-Roosevelt, Avenue C3 George V, Avenue C3 Georges Pompidou, Place P2 Gouvion St Cyr, Boulevard B1 Grand Cerf, Passage du N1 Grande Armée, Avenue de la B2 Grands Augustins, Quai des M4 Grands Augustins, Rue des M4 Grenelle, Boulevard de B5 Grenelle, Quai de B5 Grenelle, Rue de J4 Halles, Rue des N2 Haussmann, Boulevard E2 Henri IV, Boulevard R5 Henri IV, Quai R5 Hotel de Ville, Quai de l’ P3 Iéna, Avenue d’ B3 Invalides, Boulevard des D5 Italiens, Boulevard des E3 Jacob, Rue K3 Jean Jaures, Avenue H1 Jussieu, Rue P6 Kleber, Avenue B3 Lappe, Rue de H5 Lepic, Rue E1 Lombards, Rue des N2 Louvre, Quai du L2 Louvre, Rue du M1 Madeleine, Place de la D3 Malesherbes, Boulevard D2 Marceau, Avenue B3 Marigny, Avenue de D3 Maubert, Place N5 Mazarine, Rue L4 Monge, Rue P6 Montaigne, Avenue C3 Montebello, Quai de N4 Montmartre, Boulevard F2 Montmartre, Rue F3 Montorgueil, Rue N1 Montparnasse, Boulevard du E6 Mouffetard, Rue F6 Oberkampf, Rue H3
Odéon, Place de l’ L5 Odéon, Rue de l’ L5 Opéra, Avenue de l’ L1 Orsay, Quai d’ C4 P Lescot, Rue N1 Paix, Rue de la E3 Palais Royal, Place du L1 Passy, Rue de A4 Peripherique, Boulevard A2 Pigalle, Place E1 Poissonniere, Boulevard F3 Pont Neuf, Rue du M2 President Kennedy, Avenue du A5 President Wilson, Avenue du B4 Quatre Septembre, Rue du E3 Racine, Rue M5 Rambuteau, Rue N1 Raspail, Boulevard J4 Raynouard, Rue A4 Renard, Rue du P2 République, Avenue de la H3 République, Place de la G3 Richard Lenoir, Boulevard H3 Richelieu, Rue de L1 Rivoli, Rue de M2 Rosiers, Rue des Q3 Royale, Rue D3 Saints Pères, Rue des K4 Sebastopol, Boulevard de N2 Seine, Rue de L4 Sevres, Rue de J5 Sorbonne, Place de la M5 Soufflot, Rue M6 St Bernard, Quai Q6 St Denis, Boulevard G3 St Denis, Rue N2 St Dominique, Rue C4 St Germain, Boulevard M5 St Honoré, Rue E3 St Jacques, Rue N5 St Louis en l’Ile, Rue Q5 St Martin, Boulevard G3 St Martin, Rue P1 St Merri, Rue P2 St Michel, Boulevard M5 St Michel, Quai N4 St Severin, Rue N4 St Sulpice, Place K5 St Sulpice, Rue L5 Ste Croix de la Bretonnerie, Rue Q3 Suffren, Avenue de C5 Temple, Boulevard du H3
Temple, Rue du Q1 Tertre, Place du F1 Tournelle, Quai de la P5 Trocadèro, Place du B4 Tuileries, Quai des J2 Turenne, Rue de R2 Université, Rue de l’ J3 Valois, Rue de L1 Varenne, Rue de J4 Vendome, Place E3 Verrerie, Rue de la P3 Versailles, Avenue de A5 Victor Hugo, Avenue A3 Vieille du Temple, Rue Q3 Villette, Boulevard de la H2 Voltaire, Boulevard H4 Voltaire, Quai K2 Vosges, Place des R3 W Churchill, Avenue D3 Wagram, Avenue de C1